How to Make Bound Booklets - Dining Table Print & Play

[@eldphm]

Just found your channel a couple of weeks ago, and I have watched almost all of your videos. The production quality is very high and you have made it a pleasure to view them. I have learned so many useful skills. Thank you and I will recommend your channel to anyone I think might like it.

[@repeataftermeme75]

Hats off!. Great video man. I appreciate this "how to" video. Nobody does print and plays like you do. I feel like I not only learned of each method but got a little brief history lesson which was pretty cool. The time it took to figure out how to do each of these methods must've been a bit time consuming. Thank you very much!

[@biffybeans]

Love this video so much! A while back I made collaged book covers for a Coptic sewn copy of The Black Hack. I really enjoy adding additional creative elements to PNP gaming materials.

[@phookadude]

When gluing up paperback style books, after you clamp the sheets together leave around 2 cm of paper sticking out and fan the pages out either forward or back. This exposes a consistent strip of paper, like a mm or less, that you then apply the glue to causing the pages to be glued to each other not just along the edge. This makes for a much stronger binding as the pages will be glued to each other as opposed to being glued to the glue. It also helps if you can print your books in series of single folded page signatures, those can be glued the same way and will make a very nice simple book. For gluing up try flexible fabric glue, many pva glues are too stiff when dry and will crack.

[@kosterix123]

Exactly. But do water down the PVA. Also use a white strip on the cover and fold it to the back page afterwards to form a continuous spine. Scotch tape for stiffness and protection.

[@phookadude]

@@kosterix123 Scotch tape is terrible for permanent applications it turns brittle quickly. The fabric glue I recommended does not need to be watered down and remains flexible. As far as covers go they can simply be glued to the spine. A small overlap along the spine, so the cover doesn't fold along the spine but a mm or two away from it, allows you to glue a bit of the cover to the front and back pages. This works well, especially if you put extra blank pages at the front and back of the book and is more or less a requirement if the book is loose pages glued together.

[@MadLadDesigns]

I also found your channel a few weeks ago and from one fellow game maker / print and player I've definitely learnt a few things! Really do hope you continue these. I've now bought a rotary cutter and downloaded Inspector Moss - House Arrest. :)

[@andrew-isac]

U ahve impressive creative solutions and i love your channel

[@darylstanton1748]

Great video, I was wondering what the best way to do this for my board game was. Thank you

[@nslhnzcn]

Perfect video. Thank you very much !

[@kosterix123]

The staples method is what amateurs use and the main problem is finding a good material to punch through. It’s amateur because the parts farthest from the staples won’t stay flat on larger booklets plus it’s ugly and forms brown rust in the long term. The professional way is to use bookbinder glue that not only is much faster it’s more stable for larger v folds. For thicker books you use Japanese weaving it’s very easy to do and very zen.

[@jamesalexhowlett]

I plan to make a reproduction (for personal use) of the marvel superheroes rpg box set, do you think that’s something too difficult?

[@sharonsfella]

Love these videos

[@kosterix123]

28:30 no it’s not necessary to have v paper stitching works perfectly fine with loose paper as well.

[@gameplayandreview]

Can we stich the Book under the Sewing Machine?

[@Bunny2086]

I don't recommend doing that because it could break the needle & that needle could fling into your eye.

[@Flackon]

How is that thing you staple to called? A funco?

[@DiningTablePrintPlay]

It's an offcut bit of foamcore - a material comprising two sheets of cardstock with a layer of open-cell foam between them. It's often used for constructing architectural models (or miniatures wargames scenery!) because it's lightweight and easily cut and glued... but in this case I just wanted something thick enough to stop the staple going into the table, and cheap enough that I didn't mind firing staples into it! You could just as easily use a folded-up towel or a layer of foam floor tile or a few layers of corrugated cardboard or any other lightweight, not-super-dense scrap material that's thick enough.

[@kioarthurdane]

LOL, "… or to people's faces ..."

[@brucekish7576]

A binder with page protectors is more durable than stapling.

[@AR15UserRev1]

Now I need to find a PnP game with a bigger rule book...

[@DearthXalex]

how does it know!! no where is safe, not even your thoughts

[@kosterix123]

13:40 cover image is not put straight. 27:10 same mistake there. It spoils the end result a bit. Overall I love your videos though, just wondering how old you are. 25? 45? 31:32 these things are worth their weight in gold. Thankfully I still have one.