How to Make Cabinet Doors with Rail and Stile Router Bits | Skill Builder

Learn how to build cabinet door frames using a rail and stile router bit set. Most cabinet doors - especially if they are made in a factory - have frames that are assembled with rail and stile joints, also commonly called cope and stick joints. These joints feature a decorative profile, such as a flat shaker edge, a rounder, or an ogee, that frames the panel, and a groove that contains the panel. Building cabinet doors is easy when you have a rail and stile router bit set to cut these joints.
Rockler Shaker Rail and Stile Router Bit Set: www.rockler.co...
Rockler Rail Coping Sled: www.rockler.co...
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[@rds333]

This is a really good tutorial on using cope and stick bits. In my shop, I generally use multiple router tables when making raised paneled doors. I set up one for the stick cutter, one for the coping bit and one for the raised panel bit. I also use one with a cutter to eliminate tear out from the stick cutter, this is a prerequisite to the stick cutter and I never cut the stick without it. This is my trade secret.

[@MrExamplename]

Can you explain more about eliminating tear out on stick cuts? Where is the tearout and what bit do you use (and how)? From my limited experience I haven't really had any tearout issues with the long grain cuts.. but definitely have when coping the rails.

[@rds333]

@@MrExamplename First, let me clarify. I also get tear out on my rails. The only way to minimize the tear out is to back it up with a sacrificial piece that is the same thickness as your rails. Also, cut the cope first, then the sticks. Now, what I was talking about the tear out on the stiles or stick pieces, occurs along the edge where the groove is located. This can happen on oak, maple, cherry and other hardwoods. I haven’t had any problems with Poplar. The trick to eliminate the tear out along the edge is to first make a pass with a 1/4 slot cutter that is exactly the same height as the stick cutter, but cuts only about 1/16 of an inch deep. If you look at a stick cutter, you will see it has the groove cutter that is 1/4 wide. With this slight groove, the stile cutter (stick) has nothing to tear out. But this also means that you will need 2 routers tables to do this. The router table I use for the stick cutter also has a Grizzly stock feeder attached to it so I get a continuous clean cut. I’ve been doing this for years. Hope is helps.

[@FranzStrasse]

Best cope-and-stick video out there. And yes, a lift is really helpful.

[@kz65g9]

Chris, what can I say??? This is my favorite class to watch. Thank you for creating such a clear and easy to digest class.

[@knowledge2100]

Excellent video, very well explained and demonstrated using both router bits.

[@DavidB-tj3rj]

Been using these for years. Any advice on preventing tear out on style bit? Often the decorative profile gets a chewed up look near the groove. White oak and cherry seem to be the worst. I use a slow bit speed and feed slowly.

[@michaelwilliams-vu2nf]

Thanks for the video, I will be retired soon and I have all the tools to really get started in wood working

[@harrydavis6903]

Good luck and have fun with your woodworking journey. Embrace your mistakes and learn from them as well as how to fix them. We all make many.

[@agalligani]

It's be nice to have links to the other options used like the routing table, fences and feathering boards.

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

Wonderful video. Now if I could afford all of this nice equipment.

[@benignocruz8626]

Exactly what I was looking for , Extremely well explained, 💯💯💯

[@wb_finewoodworking]

Great video Chris. You covered the topic well. This is something I hope to do sometime in the next few months.

[@TeamProsperity]

Great video! Clear and well instructed. I bought the Freud Premier adjustable Rail & Stile Set (Shaker Profile) and then when I got it, it’s like now what 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@westsidewil]

I was looking at the Freud set as well with an ogee profile. I wanted to make a storm window with extended tenons. Any ideas on instructional videos provided by Freud?

[@Seeker3876]

A better designed coping sled would not require the readjustment between routing the cope and the stick. Otherwise a very good presentation.

[@rockler]

The sled is for coping rails. The stiles/sticks aren't cut with the sled.

[@Spratlyk9]

Thank you for sharing! What kind of router table is that you're using on the video. I like how you can raise or lower the blade height using a screw driver, Im not sure if all router table are like that, but i like the one you're using. Please let me know the model number, thanks!

[@MixingGBP]

It’s Rockler’s own brand of table and lift.

[@velo581]

Great tutorial, it cleared up allot of confusion for me. Thank you

[@rockler]

Glad we could help! Thanks for watching.

[@loosingparts6159]

You can keep scraps of pieces that fit well for ease of setup.

[@myselfjamal4847]

A beautiful vidéo, I liked it and also subscribed to your channel, thank you

[@jesusmaria3008]

May god bless you sir! Thank you so much for sharing this with us..

[@felixreali7101]

Thank you very much for sharing this. Really helpful and well explained.

[@eli_van8799]

Do they Rockler Rail Coping Sled fits on any router table?

[@rockler]

The clear guide registers off of the routers fence and runs 2'' above the table, so it works with most router table fences on the market.

[@ChicagoBob123]

Where does anyone find panels that are 1/4 inch thick? Most wood today, even plywood is not a true 1/4 inch thick making panels loose.

[@ekghostofficial]

Like from Pakistan. Good job

[@rachelkoiks]

So that’s what those bits do. I have them sitting in my living room given to me by someone that couldn’t remember what it was, just that it’s very useful. Kind of an idiot if idk what it is and I was gonna sell it online so someone could use them but I didn’t know what it was either and didn’t know how to research two blue and metal heavy things. I just so happened to see it as I’m looking up bevels. Finally 4 years later

[@cireednoc868]

How thick is your rail or stile in this video? Thanks

[@rockler]

They are 3/4'' rails and stiles. Thanks!

[@indraprasad8121]

How can I order this bit with router table

[@cesarrottagarcia7944]

muy interesante me gusta

[@dmudder5529]

Thanks for the excellent video and congrats on the nice equipment set up.

[@kenday7942]

This is the best explanation presentation on the subject I've seen so far. Very well organized and well explained with clear and concise descriptions of everything.

[@rockler]

💙💙

[@andycrossland7328]

Z equals the size of the door opening Plus / or minus the overhang. The rail length is equal to 2X minus 2y equals the width of the overall Z where X equals the width of the styles and Y equals the depth of the cope. Do you find this to be true? Measure all of the openings. The length of the upper styles are all the same for the same type of doors. The same is true for all the lower doors of the same type doors. Drawers can be grouped likewise.Rails should be the same for the lower and upper doors that are above one another, but this is not an always rule. They will just look strange to your eyes. A cut list is a necessary tool that will simplify your life and save time and material.

[@Xyrium]

I love the clanking sound of hardwood. Nicely done sir.

[@dukekwi]

Do the rails have the beveled edge like the stiles do?

[@rockler]

Yes. Watch from 2:18 to 3:02 to see this explained. Thanks

[@csimet]

Rockler makes some decent router bits, but these R&S bits lack one necessary feature... the ability to adjust (shim) the rail tongue and related panel grove thickness on both bits to match the panel material thickness. I wish Rockler would update these bits to allow that adjustment feature. Until then, I'm using a set of Freud bits that have this adjustability (model 99-762).

[@rockler]

Thanks for your honest feedback. We will pass this along to our product development team.

[@annpereira1597]

I've had a nice shaker door bit set for 2 years but now I finally have the confidence to try them out! This was so helpful.

[@nisarahmedsoomro1009]

Salaam Nice work so beautiful I love your work can I learn ? And you can Your teaching method is so nice and very easy plz reply or

[@SgtBooker44]

Chris, do we get college credit for watching your classes? We should.

[@pedrorojas6934]

Beautiful work,Thanks Good Explanation,Exelent.

[@brucemiller1696]

Can someone explain to me that why my shaker bits dont fit properly after i had them sharpened?

[@jerrysmigiel7998]

Hi, I bought this bit set and it works great. The package came with two thin washers in a separate little bag. What are they provided for? Are they shims?

[@rockler]

Hi Jerry, They are intended to help adjust the width of the tongue, if necessary. Our product support team can explain the uses and how to in depth for you. You can reach them at 1-800-260-9663 or [e-mail]. Thanks!

[@Guiller369]

Very nice work, Thanks for share, best regards from Tijuana, Mx

[@dimpildimzy7997]

Thank for lesson but opo kuat dienggo lawang omah om

[@christjulipds13]

I'm sure you can find awesome woodworking plans on woodprix

[@the-bu3lb]

Can I use these to make frames for the closets ?

[@rockler]

Probably not as usually closet doors are made with 1-1/4" - 1-1/2" thick material and these are only designed for 3/4" material.

[@GreenLeafWoodwork]

Thank you for the lesson!! :)

[@BigmoRivera]

Great Job Awesome Tips...THANKS!!

[@japhetmillion4671]

Should have shown a close up of the door

[@rockler]

We'll pass your suggestion along to our video production team. Thanks

[@carbonarrow7]

That looks more like a shaper that a router due the shank size on the bits????

[@GK-qz3cm]

Thanks for the great video. I am starting on the cabinet doors today and will be practicing.

[@rockler]

Thanks for watching, glad we could help. You got this! 🙌

[@wesleyhenderson5958]

Routers chip out not enough rpm. Bits dull to fast.

[@carasmussen27]

is this the same as tongue and groove? Would be great if someone could answer for me? I am a beginner so I won't be making cabinets anytime soon. :-0

[@rockler]

Rail & Stile bits are not the same as tongue and groove bits, but it is understandable that you may conflate them. Both of them do involve the wood joints fitting together.

[@rickl6697]

Will these bits work on 1/2 thick wood or does it need to be 3/4". Not doing an inset panel but a piece of 1/8" glass set in from the back(like a picture frame.)

[@rockler]

This bit set is designed specifically for ¾” rails and stiles. Using ½” material for the frame provides a very limited surface area for the joints, reducing their strength and rigidity.

[@perryhumphrey962]

glad you commented on how to mortise the rails. was not sure of that from other videos.

[@wrxs1781]

I need more tools!

[@fwanknmt]

5:05 - How does this step set the fence parallel to the coping sled travel? I'm building a fence for myself and need to understand how that setup works to ensure my fence can support the same functionality.

[@fwanknmt]

My bad: I thought the coping sled was riding in the miter slot. Now I see it rides along the fence.

[@gerhardpeter3011]

But this dont look nice and fit. This only looks easy to push it together. The bits working not good together. One is to big for the other

[@rockler]

At 8:09 in the video you will see how tight they fit. The tongue and groove section has a slight clearance space for glue.

[@gerhardpeter3011]

@@rockler glue dont need a space. Glue goes into the wood. The tight fit can u see when u hold up all on one peace. This i dont see at the video

[@rockler]

You can see the tight fit at 8:38 into the video.

[@jodymontez693]

So do these work on different thickness boards or certain thicknesses. Are doors and windows basically code or can you make them however thick you want?

[@rockler]

Hi Jody, rail and stile router bit sets have a limited range of workpiece thicknesses they'll accommodate. This mainly has to do with how thick the rear wall that supports the panel or glass will end up being -- the thinner the initial stock thickness is, the thinner this supportive wall becomes in the final assembly. There is no "code" that regulates interior cabinet door thickness. Conventionally, they're 3/4" thick.

[@m.naveednaveed1460]

Tel i m watching I am customer price for sale

[@victornedamo2883]

can be use also plywood this kind of project

[@rockler]

You could, but plywood doesn't perform well with router bits like this. You may get a lot of chip out.

[@victornedamo2883]

@@rockler okay tnx

[@brucegerber5012]

What bits did you use and what bit will you use for the panel?

[@GeometricMason]

OK, good video. One question: How do you know how long to cut the rails so the doors end-up being the correct width? Would you need to measure the depth of the tongue and add that measurement to each end of the rail since they go into the styles?

[@rockler]

Hi Eric, the easiest way to calculate part dimensions for frame and panel doors is to use our Woodshop Calculator - www.rockler.com/woodshop-calc-key The simplified answer is the width of the rail equals the width of the door, minus the width of two stiles, plus the depth of the two panel grooves. We encourage you to reach out to our Product Support team at 1-800-260-9663 or [e-mail] with more questions. Thank you!

[@usedcarsokinawa]

Very clear, thank you!

[@derekpercy7787]

Brilliant Teacher - Thanks, Mate!

[@bigjoemann]

Will there be a video on the insert panel?

[@alberto1984dj]

what type of router do you use? I loved it

[@rockler]

I use a 3.25 HP Porter-Cable 7518 router motor in a Rockler ProLift. But routers in the 2HP and larger range are powerful enough to use cope-and-stick router bits. I wouldn’t use anything smaller than a 2HP router with these bits.

[@priyankaraalvis2538]

Good

[@markchadwick77]

Great video. Why do we need to use the fence if both bits have bearings?

[@rockler]

Hi Mark Chadwick, Please reach out to our product support team at 1-800-260-9663 or [e-mail]. They'll be able to assist you. Thank you

[@JUDALATION]

180 people dont have a router table...

[@ratty2012]

I just think tongue and groove

[@josefranciscorojasluna3757]

This is my favorite class to watch.

[@esnairatalib3662]

What name that bits plss...

[@rockler]

Hello, that bit is the Rockler Shaker Rail and Stile Router Bit Set: www.rockler.com/2-piece-rail-stile-shaker-cutter-bit-set - Thanks!

[@thomaschandler4831]

Awesomeness 🏆 I want that router table

[@funkydre]

Thanks for this video. Super helpful

[@حسنفيلق-ب5غ]

Wow

[@slimey831]

Thanks for the vid!

[@luisgromero2018]

Can I glue up the panel to the stiles? Thank you much

[@rockler]

Hi Luis, as long as the panel for your cabinet door is made of plywood, you could glue it to the stiles. A solid-wood panel, on the other hand, could crack if it's glued into place (it can't expand and contract properly with seasonal wood movement). There's no reason any panel need be glued into a cabinet door, however. If the rail and stile joints are made well, glue alone in the frame joints will offer enough strength for the door.

[@joseriggio4366]

great video, could you tell what type of wood you use for it, thanks

[@TheJfox20]

This is why i like rockler so much. Thanks alot!

[@rockler]

Thank you! 💙

[@nareshbharwani4491]

How can you make such joints manually?

[@northice]

Fantastic video, thanks.

[@livinngowi1913]

How many knives for this machine how much?

[@rockler]

Please reach out to our product support team at 1-800-260-9663 or [e-mail]. They may be able to assist you. Thank you!

[@dylangardener1580]

Can you please add the link for this router table. Thank you

[@rockler]

Hi Dylan, you can find the router table top used in this video on our website at www.rockler.com/rockler-high-pressure-laminate-router-table-fence-and-phenolic-plate

[@dylangardener1580]

@@rockler can this work with dewalt router dw618?

[@lfcbpro]

perfect, just what I was looking for, thanks a lot

[@pintusharma5146]

Hii

[@melancholyme5708]

Same here 👍

[@mwinner101]

I bought these Rockler bits. They are very nice but trying to get the depth to match between the two bits so that the rails and stiles are flush and smooth is very challenging.

[@rockler]

If you go back and re-watch the video, pay close attention to the content around the 7:14 time stamp. Here you’ll see the stile/sticking cutter being height adjusted so it’s slot cutter matches the tongue height on a coped piece of the joint. This is the best method to set the second router bit accurately: use a sample coped end to fine-tune the stile cutter’s height. If you do that, the resulting cuts will enable the door frame’s corner joints to fit together accurately and the faces of the rails and stiles will be flush. Of course, make sure the thickness of your rails and stiles matches before you begin the routing process, too.

[@mwinner101]

@@rockler Thanks for the reply but I’ve watched it several times and I either get a 1/32 layer of wood remaining when I do a test pass or the rails and stiles are not flush by 1/32 to 1/16. I’m tempted to cheat and run the cabinet door thru a planer.

[@b1j]

@@mwinner101 a router lift helps. The Mast-R-Lift II is height-adjustable to 0.001”.

[@benjaminh5243]

Informative very well done video, thanks!

[@henrysara7716]

Thank you Christ.

[@evodawg]

Yes but how do you figure out the cope measurement?

[@rockler]

If you mean how do you estimate the length of the rails, which have coped ends, here's a formula: Width of the door opening minus twice the width of the stiles plus twice the depth of the sticking cuts equals the overall rail length including the coped profiles. This does not take into account the swing clearance needed around the door and will build a door that fits tightly in its opening.

[@davronjames5427]

Very nice and superclean..

[@mubarizabbasov8200]

Мы такие ножи использовали 1996-ом году!

[@nickmelnik2821]

И будете использовать в 2022 ++++

[@shahzadmuhammad5046]

very good informative video thanks

[@e.stgo.7998]

Great video 🤔👍👍👍👍👍

[@Dobbs321]

Now I have a reason to buy a router table.

[@earlmuenze7329]

Stick and cope frames

[@dylangardener1580]

How do make the raise panel middle piece

[@rockler]

Hi Dylan, raised panels can be formed either with a table saw using beveled cuts or with a variety of panel-raising bit systems on a router table or stationary shaper. There are many videos online documenting how this process works, such as this one on our channel: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6OQnmmqiL2kiK8

[@jaimetaboada7013]

Amigo cómo puedo abquirirlo en Perú

[@rockler]

Hi Jaime, at this time we are unable to ship internationally. We apologize for the inconvenience.

[@esnairatalib3662]

That flat bit ?

[@rockler]

Yes, the set comes with both bits. You can view and order them on our website at - www.rockler.com/2-piece-rail-stile-shaker-cutter-bit-set - Thanks!

[@daniellaitete2603]

Are the bits in the market?

[@leifharmsen]

Once it is glued up, how to you replace the glass?

[@MrNateSPF]

You can cut out the back grove and then use clips instead to hold the glass in.

[@davidketteringham8923]

Great presentation. Thank you.

[@HungNguyen-xw4fm]

Gia bao nhiêu một bộ vậy

[@rockler]

Hi Hung, our Rail and Stile Shaker Cutter Router Bit set is $119.99 USD. You can find it on our website at www.rockler.com/2-piece-rail-stile-shaker-cutter-bit-set

[@samisastro8766]

Good n very tidy job.

[@muhdfauziabdullah7830]

I like u router table sir

[@jimb4235]

Are the joints only glued?

[@rockler]

Hi Jim, the answer is yes; rail-and-stile joints only need to be glued for assembly. Their mating profiles offer significant surface area for glue to create strong joints.