How to Make Foam Scenery Base for Your Model Railroad Layout

How to make foam scenery base for your model railroad layout using extruded foam sheets and Great Stuff expanding foam insulation. The product of this method yields a base that is versatile and easy to shape as well as strong.
Amazon Pick of the Week: Great Stuff: amzn.to/2xLoMuf
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[@JohnDerby-le2jb]

Ron. Great video. I’m in the U.K. and have a London based model railway. I use the blue foam extensively and it works very well.

[@tracksidescenery9361]

I love the great stuff idea Great job and thanks for the info

[@thomasdecker7631]

Ron, In the past I have used PVA glue and shaped the foam with a serrated kitchen knife and a couple of different sizes of Stanley Surform tools. I had planned on switching to a different adhesive like Liquid Nails for projects but may try Great Stuff at least for filling gaps. Excellent video. Thanks for posting.

[@WisLockman]

I just started to build my Diorama and have learned a lot from this video. Thank you. I won’t be having a train layout. Mine will be a commercial/residential street tear out with metal Detectorist. I’ll be having some of the construction 🚧 diggers moving and will also have a police & Fire station with active lights and sirens.

[@LTBROYT6A]

Another great video Ron !!! Over the years I have worked extensively with Great Stuff for all types of projects, although this is the first time I have seen it used for Model Railroad scenery, but I have thought about it. My favorite tool for cutting great stuff is the ginsu or TV knife it cuts quickly and easily and leaves very little mess behind.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Cool tip. Thanks.

[@johnramirez5996]

I like to use a drywall rasp for shaping. A knif we is great for big stuff but for finishing the prep work, rasp. Try it , not the palm rasp. But the 1in to 2in with handle works the best. Gets corners, slopes, and banks.

[@railguy6639]

Great video Ron. I use foam all of the time on my layouts since they need to remain lightweight to transport (NTRAK). Lately I've used papier-mâché as my hard shell. The paper base is packing tissue and the glue I use is Mod Podge Matte finish. This does a good job of sealing up the foam to prevent it from dissolving when sprayed with camo paints as a base coat or if you plan to use a resin based product for water. I can cut and glue-in any rock formations. I have also used Apoxie Sculpt clay with rock molds where I need a solid drillable surface.

[@PierreLucGagnon58]

Hey Ron! As for my layout, I base it all on extruded foam which I carve with a long knife and a hot knife and glue using normal wood glue. To cover it I will use sculptamold and simple joint compound but I don't cover the entire foam base with that. Some parts I will scenic directly while other parts will have sculptamold then scenic and finally some of the more flat areas I will use joint compound that I sand down. I used to use plaster of paris and smooth it but it makes a huge mess and I don't like making a mess like that. I'm in the process of rebuilding my layout and for this rebuild it will also be foam, sculptamold and joint compound except that for the roads I wanna try an European technique which is to use air drying clay with 3D printed stamps. We'll see how that goes! Keep those videos of yours coming as they're always fun to watch!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

+Pierre-Luc Gagnon Thanks for sharing. I use a variety of techniques and am trying several new ones for the sake of video.

[@gerlandkent6377]

[thank, you for youre video]👍

[@pacbeltrr38]

Ron, I almost use your technique exactly! I LOVE Great Stuff!!! It's under most of the scenery on my Layout. One thing's for sure, you certainly like to try multiple methods of Layout construction!! Nothing wrong with that. I don't know if you've ever tried this..... but I've used Wax Paper to hold back some areas that I don't want the Great Stuff expanding into. It's the only thing I've found that the foam won't stick to when the Great Stuff has cured. If you're careful, you can almost leave a near finished contour after peeling off the Wax Paper. Carmine 🚂

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

+PacbeltRR I use wax paper for a number of things, but never tried this. I will give it a try. Thanks.

[@brianw8433]

Ron, Great video, validates some of the things I have been doing with my foam - love the "Great Stuff" However i never tried to use it as glue, I use liquid nails - projects - for gluing foam. Brilliant use of hacksaw blade, never thought or heard of it before, you can certain ill be a my local Lowes to pick one up. Thanks again

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

+Brian W I love expanding foam for gaps, and I too prefer the Liquid Nails fpr Projects for adhesive. Great Stuff expands too much to be my first choice for adhesive, but it works and hds well.

[@erleclaire]

If you use can bottom up, less gas and splattering foam will escape, giving better control and a smoother bead will result.

[@mapit07]

Hi Ron, Great video and timely as I have been experimenting with Great Stuff Foam as a void fill on my dioramas. I wanted to try using one of my Hot Wire tools to speed up the sculpting process so I did a bit of research. Come to find out that Great Stuff by Dow is a Polyurethane foam and according to the folks at Hot Wire Foam Factory when I asked the question: Showing results for "can you use hot wire on cured polyurethane foam" "A: Polyurethane foam should not be cut with hot wire tools. It needs a ton of heat, gives off toxic fumes, and leaves a lot of melted plastic wherever it is cut. We recommend that the polyurethane foams only be cut with a blade or saw." Good Safety tip I wanted to share! Thanks.

[@nssherwoodsub]

Ron...that was a great episode that introduced new techniques that I might try. I have been using extruded foam for my layout surface and some small hills. Before this video, I was gluing it together with latex caulk and sealing the joints with Sculptamold. That's worked well for me. As for your comment about video production, I think that your production quality is already excellent. I especially like your intros...Harold

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

+Norfolk Southern Sherwood Subdivision Yes, I work to have good production quality, but there are limitations I'd loke to overcome. Some areas of my layout I can't film without some lighting. I can't film on the go because my camera won't takw a shotgun mic so sound is really bad. Etc. I'd just like to do more at the level of quality I expect from myself.

[@nssherwoodsub]

Makes sense. I guess we are all looking for ways to improve. I have one of those shotgun mikes. It's a Rode VideoMic GO that I bought on Amazon. Not expensive and works pretty well but you do need a suitable camera.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

+Norfolk Southern Sherwood Subdivision Yes, Ibhave the same but my Canon T3 has no jack for it. 😣

[@jerrysmith1929]

There are light brackets which attach to your camera and tripod that can also be used to mount your microphone. www.amazon.com/Aluminium-Universal-Additional-Cold-shoe-Microphone/dp/B01FLYUDW4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1516129686&sr=8-4&keywords=camcorder+light+bracket

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

+Jerry Smith Since making this video I acquired a boom stand so this is no longer an issue.

[@dacuzzz]

hi Ron... great vid.. i didn't know you can use the expanding foam as an adhesive .. great tip.. thanks for sharing.. vinny

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

+bnsf6951 Yes, but weigh it dow as it dries due to expansion.

[@MMRails]

Last person that called me a gomer got a black eye. Oh! Foamer. No idea. I'm more of a Homer. Always banging my head on the train table. D'oh! Great video. -Mark

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

+M&M Rails LOL 😁👍

[@NewHavenRails]

Nice technique.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

+New Haven Rails Thanks.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

The correct poll answer is All of the above, but the term I had in mind was a derogatory term used by real railroaders for railfans--foaming at the mouth over a train.

[@rjl110919581]

thank you for detailed the video use foam board to build my HO layout which is 10ft x 12ft size as all-out foam board and wood stand wood glue with very little wood for only build base sit layout

[@christiaanbrown4278]

Another well-done video Ron. I like the idea of using the foam, but I have cut into the spray foam after it has cured and it normally has too many bubbles in it to paint directly over it to look good. covering it with another substrate would be my only choice. That is my opinion, people have their own free agency on their builds. I am glad that you reiterate that in your videos. you have a most impressive layout, I hope I can have something similar someday.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Yes, it is definitely better to cover the spray foam with a layer of sculptamold, plaster, groung goop, or the like.

[@Perfusionist01]

Ron, very nice work> I have used several versions of scenery over the years, but if I have to rebuild it would be almost all foam. The foam offers light weight and pretty good support to track, to structures and additions like figures or trees. As shown in a Ken Patterson video, there are situations where you can "trench" the foam to run wiring to track or to buildings. Cover the wiring trench with Great Stuff or some such and the surface is back in business. re: Foamer - I don't know how old the term is (my guess is the 1990s) but most of the BNSF guys in my area know the term. When they ask why I'm taking pictures I just have to say "I'm a foamer" and they know immediately.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

+Gary Binder I think the term has been around a long time.

[@MP-km7dk]

Hilti tools makes a really nice foam gun with much more spray control.

[@randomgeminiastronaut46]

I just use the foam then i fill the shape in with foam and after the night I work on getting the hill or incline better Shape then I paint it

[@zingerflippinz2066]

I use both extruded foam and spray foam. I sometimes use styrofoam but don't like the little pieces of static filled bits that tick everywhere. I take the pieces I cut off and use them for filler with new spray foam. I also make my own sculpto-mold out of cheap and thin toilet paper or old newspaper mixed with plaster of Paris or casting plaster. Most of my displays are very light weight. I make miniature scenery dioramas but am considering getting back into model railroading.

[@christiaanbrown4278]

Sounds like Paper mache with plaster instead of the flour and glue mixture. I wonder if Mod Podge would work the same or end up as hard? the price point is another question as well. the plaster may be much less expensive.

[@TheStoneWhisperer]

Ron, I respect your tremendously, but I'm confused why you're using the great stuff as glue on the foam? Especially since it can expand and raise up the foam board. I would think just gluing it down with the construction "foam safe" glue would be the best application for that. The other thing that confused me, is why you felt you needed to fill in the seams with the great stuff? If it's going to covered eventually with landscaping plaster, is it necessary? I mean in the areas where you are creating hills of course, but just down a seam of a board, I wasn't sure what the logic was. I'm a newbie, so trying to learn from everyone some best practices. It just seemed like that great stuff was causing more work for you. Just my thoughts :) Enjoy your videos Ron, thanks so much!

[@07jofurc]

ive been working on a train layout idea for a while now and wasn't sure how i was going to do any of the mountain ranges im hoping to be able to use expanding foam to shape the mountain ranges and maybe more... i also wasn't sure about gluing foam...

[@Hellonwheels66]

Yes, Ron. You are a foamer.

[@budgetwebsiteservice]

A bread knife, short steak knife (that you'd use at the dinner table) and a hot wire are also great tools for shape forming these types of foam...

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I don't have a hot wire tool, although I wish I did and will probably invest in one in the not-too-distant future.

[@kargandarr]

There is another way to make landscape that I read about in a model railroading book several years ago. In this process you take old tiles from a drop-ceiling and break them into two sections. You glue them and stack them together with the square edges matching together. When the glue has set up you cover the broken edges and the top surfaces with hydrocal to create cliffs. this is also a way to construct a tunnel roof as well.

[@kensomething379]

Just make sure those ceiling tiles you're snapping aren't made with asbestos. Most are and are PROVEN to cause cancer. Those little dust particles you see floating around? You're breathing those in and under a microscope, you can see they have little "hooks", like velcro. They will stay permanently in your lungs, which try and fight it off like an infection (which it becomes) and, boom, you've got cancer, one they can't cure/treat. - I.I.C.R.C. Certified restoration technician

[@CONTAINERMAN68]

Funny, you haven't seen it yet? You've seen it, heck you produced and filmed it! Fusion Fiber, joint compound, plaster cloth, paint and ground foam. Roy

[@dennisarmes9851]

nice video !!! another great tool for cutting any type of foam is the small rapala fillet knife !!!! it is very thin and this smaller knife is originally used to fillet smaller fish ( perch, crappie, etc.) they only cost about 10 bucks and they come with a nice, but small, sharpening tool. you will be amazed at how easily this knife cuts the foam.... actually almost anything. no cheaply made stuff here as they are produced in finland and come with a really nice scabbard.

[@aprilsoon3562]

Hey Ron, I’m not a scenery hobbiest but I am assisting my 10 yr old daughter with an Ocean Floor Diorama. I have been watching all of your videos intensely and I’m so thankful for the abundance of clear well spoken instructions and tips. I do, however, have a question. I’m having a really hard time finding out how I can protect my daughters project from melting with epoxy resin. We are using PS6 polystyrene (I’m guessing expanded foam) from two foam coolers. The internet has provided options like styro-coat, styro-shield, sculptamold, mod-podge or minwax polyurethane. We will be covering the entire foam base with a home made sculptamold type clay. Will that be sufficient or do we need to do something more? Thank you for your time. Mahalo.

[@hanfordbrace5092]

When do you explain the track and high road bed?

[@robertschworm6036]

Ron, Use Liquid Foam for Projects instead of that liquid foam in the can. Is a calk. Just smear it out and join the elements together. Great for sub roadbed. Pin your tack and down thru the smear with a pin or such. The smear wukk grab the pin and hold the track tight. Later you can pick your track up with no hassel and no loss of it. From HD and 3 bucks a can. I use this exclusively. Bob S

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Interesting, Robert. I will have to check that out.

[@jpsholland]

Use the spray-foam bottom up. Otherwise you get a lot of spatter, Fissure 8 style. But also, way to much unused propellant gas escape so you end up with using just about half the content of foam.

[@johnjames9069]

Great vid Ron, What kind of paint do you use directly on the foam? Is there a technique best for simulating snow?

[@christiaanbrown4278]

Look into Woodland Scenics® Scene-A-Rama® Landscape Snow, it may be what you are looking for. I found this at Michael's craft store

[@davidrice2862]

Maybe cuts from white foam would make 3D clouds on backdrop.

[@sillywesties]

One technique is Layering foam board using (foam friendly) liquid nails between the sheets....shape foam board using any type tools including power equipment, I also use the liquid nails like cake batter....chauk and smear the glue making a hard shell over the shaped foam board, then take a small cup of water,drip fingers in water then smooth over the rough surface, working the glue over. Then after 24 hours or depending how much chaulk was used, paint, ground cover and then final scenery is ready to install. I find tubed liquid nails fairly cheap at Walmart, and when used sparingly goes a long way!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

+sillywesties Interesting. I use Liquid Nails fpr projects to glue foam together often, but never heard of using it for the surface.

[@sparky107107]

I have used plaster cloth, or drywall mud,, to fill the cracks. never seen this way before.. the way you do it.. looks like a bit of work,, and messy. the hack saw blade is a good tip, for sure. the knife is just more uncontrollable good tips and tricks.. many ways to do each job for sure

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

+sparky107107 It is no more messy than carving the foam is in the first place.

[@reuelowen1]

Paint foam while wet add cotton batting.let dry paint or scenic spray add grown cover while wet. hit with scenic spray if need.

[@PhilipGreenhill-vh3sr]

Hi Philip here me and my girlfriend are doing my layout like yours but we're did you get your form what you been squirting it on the layout from let me know

[@sparky107107]

the way I do it, is foam layers, then covered with plaster cloth,, less mess.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

+sparky107107 Mess is fun. 😆

[@eldonlowman253]

sparky107107 Ron: Your videos are significantly better than most out there! You cover all aspects of your subject and you speak with authority as if you are running the teaching, rather than the subject forcing you along the way some guys do! Keep up the good work. If I wasn't retired and alimony poor I would help you, but alas chat and medical bills interfeer with my intent. Oh, I forgot to ask you , how tall did you cut those 1 & 1/4 thinwall grain elevators? There are 10 feet of pvc pipe in the garage who want to know. Regards. Eldon Lowman

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Hi, Eldon. Somehow I missed this message until today. Those grain elevators are approximately 120 scale feet tall, or about 9 inches in N scale. These are on the taller end of most grain elevators, but well within the range of reality and very prototypical for these particular elevators. Most commercial kits are way too short, about 70-80 scale feet.

[@ronondrovic4916]

I find the grat suff tube clogs and if I clean it and remove the tube the can does not dispense the stuff in a days time. HOW YOU YOU STORE AND REUSE THE GREAT STUFF?

[@neparailfanning770]

Foaming means to go nuts over a train i do it all the time.

[@donaldring1256]

Ron, After a lengthy search, I was unable to find any of the blue or pink extruded foam to use on my base. That is the XPS type. I had to use the insulation panels that were EPS foam (almost like regular Styrofoam), so I used that on my 4'x10' layout. Having never used Great Stuff, maybe you can tell me if it can be used with this foam. I will be building hills with my foam (have to tolerate the little white beads that fly everywhere) and would blend the Great Stuff with it. Hope it won't dissolve my base.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Hi, Donald. I'm sorry you had trouble finding the XPS. I know it can be hard to find in warmer climates. Yes, the Great Stuff should work fine with the foam board you have. Ultimately, they are made of the same material, only porcessed differently.

[@TheStoneWhisperer]

@@RonsTrainsNThings - Yeah, the XPS is not available here in Southern California at ANY of the Home Improvement Big Box stores. They did have smaller 2'x2' squares of it at 1" thick that said right on the sign "for craft projects", so someone clearly knows people use this stuff a lot for model railroading. So, I bought like 12 panels of it, but it's kinda expensive buying it that way!

[@opeyshop]

hey Ron try ORIGINAL GORILLA GLUE in bowl and water mix it brush it on it might two or three layer i going try the used for post foam home depot sell for 15 dollar it two part used small part of it . it foam fast then you apply it. it trim the way you want it

[@GrannyGooseOnYouTube]

This is awesome. I'm just getting started in retirement, and so far all I have is a train set, an 8 x 6 board, and two saw horses. My question is, do I lay my track on foam board a bit above the plywood base? I plan to have a small stream and lake, so I'm thinking the track and all the scenery needs to be above "water level". Am I doing this right? Eek.

[@GrannyGooseOnYouTube]

PS I'm collecting all your videos into a playlist called "My Toy Train". lol

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Yes, foam will give you the ability to carve out scenery and water features. It sounds like you are on the right track.

[@GrannyGooseOnYouTube]

@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks, Ron!!!

[@troybrodrick7208]

do you use static grass on your layout?if so might be a good how to

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

+troy brodrick Yes, I am planning a how to comparing two different applicators.

[@davidstorm8879]

have you ever used spray can expanding foam before you made this video ???

[@illusionclassicrock6742]

No warpage without a plywood base?

[@williammurphy2722]

Hi Ron, what brand is the knife (carpet) that you are using to cut the foam?

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Here is the exact one I have: amzn.to/3alYgLG

[@williammurphy2722]

Thanks, Is it the 18mm or the 25mm? Because I really like the model you used in the video.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

@@williammurphy2722 I have the 18mm.

[@jackass71467]

great stuff makes a non expanding foam. have you tried it? works the same just does not expand as much

[@brucenadeau5920]

Terrain features builder and now getting ready to do my first ever running train model diaroma... Yikes! lol

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Exciting!

[@brucenadeau5920]

@@RonsTrainsNThings I sub'd and looks like I can learn some good tricks here. I run a terrain channel under another accounts and name and when I start this project I PLAN on crediting your channel as a GREAT source to hit!

[@hntrains2]

When it comes to jobs like this, which do not require a huge quantity of foam, you might want to use a foam insulation gun (bit.ly/2fV9pqX). That way, you can not only use as much foam as you want at a time, but also use the foam in the can the next day, too - why, even two or three weeks after starting to use that particular can. And when you use a gun, you also have to buy a different type of can (low.es/2yzNa5i). The foam is the same, the can is fitted differently.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

+hntrains I have seen these and this is good information. Thanks.

[@jerrysmith410]

I use foam for some scenery but more often as a structural base material. I have avoided the foam spray because I regard it as too messy and difficult to control. I use Dap Lightweight Spackling to fill in cracks. It won't shrink and is easily sanded. I use a Stanley mini-hacksaw rather than just the bare blade. www.stanleytools.com/en-us/products/hand-tools/cutting-tools/hacksaws/10-in-minihack-saw/20-807 Frequently I use the Woodland Scenics hotwire tool for trimming foam. Of course you want to ventilate the space.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

+Jerry Smith The expanding foam isn't too messy as long as you watch the continued oozing from the nozzle and don't spray into large open gaps. I like it fpr filling gaps, but for adhesive I prefer Liquid Nails For Projects or low temp hot glue.

[@jerrysmith410]

Ron's Trains N Things Like you I have been using Liquid Nails and low temp glue as adhesive. I know Ken Patterson is an advocate of spray foam for adhesive. A friend of mine recently shared he is using a particular brand of primer paint to adhere together layers of foam. I have yet to try it.

[@jerrysmith410]

Ron's Trains N Things I will wait to try your suggestion to use spray foam for building up the transition between levels of foam.

[@paulditzen2708]

Question: When you use the Great Stuff to adhere the foam to the one by's supporting it, won’t it expand and push the foam up and out of position??

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

You need to use weight or clamps to hold it in position until the Great Stuff cures.

[@tomsurface9538]

Ron, There is a version of the spray foam that doesn’t expand that is used for door frames and window sashes that won’t produce the tremendous pressure of the expanding foam. Available at the big box stores. Great video! Also, I am wondering why I can’t use latex calk to smooth over the cracks where the base foam sheets meet. It will accept paint also act as an adhesive. Spread it with a putty knife to smooth it out. Is there a down side I am not thinking about? Tom Surface

[@stephenmartin3258]

Just to let any starters out there know, if you just use styrofoam by itself, you need to use a certain type of paint to paint with. Use Acrylic paints, or water based paints same thing. *DO NOT USE SPRAY PAINT!! IT WILL EAT AWAY AT THE FOAM!!*

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Yes, that is very true. Thanks.

[@pierreklee7490]

Where did you get your fascia?

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

+Pierre Klee I use 1/8" Masonite tempered hardboard ripped into 8" strips.

[@pierreklee7490]

Thank you!

[@406s1092]

What color blue is your backdrops thanks Mike

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

+406s1092 It is mixed--medium sky blue gradually blended with white toward the bottom.

[@andrewmcnett1611]

Just getting started doing this kind of hobbie the.

[@michaellerner1369]

Loctite makes a Tite Foam that is much better than Great Stuff and looks more like the hard pink sheets when dry.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

+Michael Lerner Interesting. I'll have to heck that out.

[@ripjeffhanneman5838]

When you pull out your great stuff make sure you have paper towels handy.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Very true.

[@gvet47]

I am surprised you use the expanding foam as an adhesive since it requires more carefully use. Still a great learning video.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I don't always use it. I want to illustrate its use in this video. I use it when I want to cut foam with hot wire tools as it cuts like the foam. Other times I use low-temp hot glue.

[@pierrecasavant3381]

this stuff are good for gluing on stacking foam,for sure whit somes weight on it @@RonsTrainsNThings

[@angusdassler3052]

sculpt mold works much better, is cuttable, and is somewhat cheap.

[@bradhamrick9197]

Hi Guy How Are You Doing Today We Are Good Today And O Scale Ho N Marks Train station Flyover

[@larrybaughman618]

🤠🖐🚂🫵

[@jacko9759]

REAL ROAD WORKS CALL RAIL FANS THAT!

[@jacko9759]

We use it for modules To keep the weights down, will be my first time using it for the first time hope it's as easy as you made it, Ken Paterson suggested using groullia glue to hold it down but you have to weigh it down for some time, and use water to activate it, thanks Ron fot the show!

[@nottrevorallen]

foamer as a term is coming back, it gets used like 50 times every time well theres your problem does a train episode

[@TheOriginalBadger]

I shuddered every time you cut TOWARDS your left hand. Safety first Ron.

[@pathvalleyrailroad9277]

I do too. I know me, I would have lopped my fingers off by now.

[@videobruceb8879]

"Great Stuff" is anything BUT great. It's terrible. Use regular caulk instead as an adhesive.

[@graememcgregor9918]

give us a break, your starting to carry on a bit too much.

[@danceitout3266]

I like this method but I cover it all with a slurry of diluted drywall mud.