How to Make Frosted Glass Doors with 2x6s and Plexiglass

[@airsoftmeister94]

This is what it looks like to do a job properly. No cutting corners or rushing through things. Looks so good!

[@polgara28]

These doors are the most beautiful closet doors I've ever seen. Excellent job!

[@deeruckussolutions8772]

Holy crap talk about precision and perfection sheeeeeeeesh

[@ProjectBilld]

Yeah I've got issues lol

[@jamesb7290]

Great call on covering the track. Looks fantastic.

[@tomasgulas]

Nice build! I've been thinking of making bi-fold doors, 2 pieces on each side. This gave me some ideas how to tackle some parts of the project. Thanks!

[@ProjectBilld]

Awesome, glad the video helped!

[@mrlouization]

This is really amazing craftsmanship. It’s so addictive watching your videos. Keep up the great work👍🏾

[@ProjectBilld]

Thanks! I'm enjoying getting to make them

[@katienebelsick3559]

This was a great video! Thanks so much for taking the time.

[@ProjectBilld]

You're welcome!

[@andreat.8078]

Thank you for the video😊 It's super helpful!!

[@martinmartin6117]

Great Job, you inspired Me to build one

[@DolceA186]

Thank you for sharing the links. Will show this to hun t. Not sure if we have all the tools though.

[@Kyle-ev4fk]

I like those doors

[@colinray171]

I love how these doors turned out! A faster (yet more complicated) method to ensure the inside squares are right angles might be to make the rabbets with a table saw rather than a router. This would mean running all the styles and all the rails through a table saw prior to attaching the styles to the rails. Dado blades on the table saw would save some time here. However it would create a new challenge, as the rails would meet the styles along the rabbet so the depth of the pocket screws would need to change or they might not work. A solution to this could be to make the styles slightly longer and to attach them along the rabbeted styles with a half lap + screws and/or wood glue.

[@ProjectBilld]

Hey Colin, thanks for the suggestions! I considered making them on the table saw pretty much how you suggested but didn't go that route obviously. It's been a while so I don't even remember why exactly I chose not to haha

[@egonzy4473]

Wow that came out amazing!!!!

[@ProjectBilld]

Thanks!

[@NogodbutAllahh]

Really nice work man! Thanks for sharing.

[@ProjectBilld]

You're welcome!

[@dbassett74]

WOW. Excellent workmanship!

[@ProjectBilld]

Thanks! I appreciate the compliment

[@lanarm4942]

These are really beautiful.

[@Musafir_Pingpong]

Fantastic 😊

[@VideoMagMD]

Great job...👍

[@ProjectBilld]

Thanks!

[@randyaven6377]

Thank you for this. This was one of the first videos I watched a month or so ago as I was trying to get ideas for making my own interior barn doors for my daughter's room. I came back to this video because it seems to be the best route for me to go. My doors are going to be much bigger and I"m hoping they won't be too heavy since I"m using 2x6 as well. Two doors will be 88"x33" and the other door will be 88"x44". Each door will have 3 panels with 1/4" glass (frosted) used as panels. I'm curious, in your opinion, for the wider door (44") if making the pocket holes/screws will be strong enough to hold?

[@ProjectBilld]

Hi Randy, I think as long as the barn door hardware is mounted in the stiles (vertical boards) then the pocket holes screws won't really have much weight on them and should be good! Even if it were mounted on the top rail I think it would still hold fine, pocket hole screws really are pretty strong, especially with 3 next to each other. You can also add wood glue to the joint if you think it needs some additional strength

[@gyancer]

Love it!!!!!!!👏👏👏👏

[@designwithkeisha2073]

Great Video!

[@ProjectBilld]

Thanks!

[@Rmer716]

Excelente!

[@Kingbow111]

I guess a sliding door on a rail undergoes less twisting force than a hinged door; curious if you have any thoughts about whether or not this sort of pocket screw joinery will be strong enough for a hinged door?

[@ProjectBilld]

I do think it would hold up fine as I don't imagine too much of the twisting force would make it to the pocket hole joints from the hinge location. But I likely wouldn't use doors like these where in places where the backside will be visible. You could fill the pocket holes but it seems like it would be less work to make a tongue and groove or mortise and tenon door at that point.

[@Kingbow111]

@@ProjectBilld That's what I figured, thanks for your reply!

[@aneelajm]

Was there any space left at all around your plexiglass? I’m making some doors and in cut a groove inside my wood to clock it in place, and now I’m worried with wood movement, that it may crack??

[@ProjectBilld]

I cut the plexiglass 1/16 of an inch smaller in both directions so I'd have some room to get it in. I don't think you're going to have any problems if you were able to insert the glass in place. I had some that were very tight fits and haven't had any issues so far

[@rajaharrison411]

This was a great video! Honestly, it my router wasn’t a cheap one and I could make those recessed pockets for the glass, I would def do this. What do you recommend for someone who doesn’t have a good router for the plexiglass part of the build?

[@ProjectBilld]

Thanks! I had another commenter suggest that the doors could be made by cutting the rabbets in the sides of the stiles/rails on the table saw. To make that work you'd need to extend the rails a little so that they make mini-lap joints over the rabbet of the stiles. You'd also need to change the location of the pocket hole locations to be in relation to the narrower part of the rail and not the lap overhang

[@ProjectBilld]

A much simpler way would be to cut the rails and stiles a little narrower (width of the panel rabbets) and then tack wood strips with a brad nailer and wood glue flush with the front edge inside the openings. Let me know if that makes sense and if you have any questions

[@rajaharrison411]

@@ProjectBilld thank you for the response. I will definitely be trying this.

[@StatutoryRock]

What wood filler are you using? Looks like getting good results with it.

[@ProjectBilld]

I have been using minwax color changing wood filler but I'm actually in search of a new wood filler at the moment. It works alright but is difficult to spread and dries out quickly and can't be recovered once dry

[@StatutoryRock]

@@ProjectBilld I hear ya. I tried the "Plastic Wood" and am looking for something better as I can't get a smooth surface out of it with sanding. Looking for a more "professional" grade. Thanks bud!

[@maeflick3996]

How much did all this cost?

[@ProjectBilld]

Cost will depend greatly on current lumber prices but I'd estimate between 250 to 300 for 2 doors

[@sergioknuf]

Frost spray paint

[@ProjectBilld]

It's definitely an option. I tried it out and had issues with overspray as well as the finish scratching really easily so I decided to go with the film instead

[@joantomlin898]

@@ProjectBilld What type of film did you use? I love this idea, have the plexiglass, most of the tools, lumber. I need this in my life!

[@ProjectBilld]

There's a link to the film I used in the video description. You're gonna love your new doors!

[@tomspallone1868]

I’m estimating that build to be about……..$280

[@ProjectBilld]

That's a little high but it does depend on what materials you already have and the current high cost of lumber. For me, making the doors was both just to try something new and because I couldn't find anything pre-made that was reasonably priced

[@michaeldawsoncox9532]

Basic woodworking methods? The first in the fairly long list of tools used is a thickness planer for $615.99!!

[@ProjectBilld]

Which is why I mentioned in the video that you can make these doors using 1 1/2 stock lumber by modifying a few steps along the way. I realize that not everyone is going to have the tools that I do so I try to suggest alternatives where possible

[@DolceA186]

Great video.

[@ProjectBilld]

Thanks!