How to Make Identical Duplicate Parts with a Grinder! Mighty Max Ep. 11

[@craigm5511]

I've just watched every single one of your videos, and want to thank you for the honest, down to earth style you use when producing this great content. I like the mindset of getting quality work done with the tools we have available. Really great stuff. I also want to say that your choice of "keep moving forward" is such a fabulous message. It's like you're giving us a reassuring nudge to say "now get out into your garage and get to work. Progress won't always be easy, but keep moving forward and you'll achieve your goals" Love it!

[@GarageFab]

Craig, Your words will be printed and framed to help keep me motivated. I receive compliments often but never before has anyone practically recited my mission statement verbatim. I’m thrilled to find out I’m not spinning my wheels and my message is actually being heard. I told myself early on that if I could encourage just a few people to tackle their dream projects, all the hard work creating videos wouldn’t be in vain and worth continuing. Thank you my friend. You are appreciated more than you know. Thank you! PS “Keep Moving Forward” was shamelessly ripped off from one of my favorite movies, “Meet the Robinsons” A film I think all children and adults should watch. If you haven’t already, you’ve got homework. 😀

[@Mel-Family]

@@GarageFab I'm with that guy, I'm now retired and finally getting to my builds and have been going gangbusters. Most stuff I've watched, so far, of yours I know or I'd figure out by looking at it. But.... BUT I've honestly not come across someone that explains things so well. It's easy to see that you genuinely enjoy teaching! I sub'd today and I'll be tackling more of your videos in the morning. After that, I've got a TinWorks trailing arm crossmember and trans crossmember to install in my 71 C10 stepside muscle truck. Keep it up and I'll keep watching! PS, these videos are done better than alot of professional "on TV" car shows. No stupid stuff, no cringe worthy antics and nothing that insults your intelligence as a viewer.

[@GarageFab]

@@Mel-Family Hahaha! There’s a fine line there; Being clear and understandable while not assuming people are stupid. I appreciate your words! It’s been tough, but comments like yours give me the motivation to keep moving forward. Cheers my friend! 🍻

[@immanutt4442]

Aaron ... I just looked up definition of the word - mank . Sir I will never ever call you ... MANK ANDY (except for this last time) again .

[@GarageFab]

There are quite a few different meanings out there. I had no idea. Kinda makes me like it even more. Too bad my name ain’t Andy.

[@MrSpad007]

great shots of the puddle. best I have seen on youtube

[@GarageFab]

Thank you Mike!! I appreciate that. I think those shots can be improved still with some practice.

[@NightWrencher]

How many hours did it take to edit this video?

[@GarageFab]

Hahaha! 3 months. Just kidding. 3 weekends. The rest of that time was spent rebuilding my house.

[@NightWrencher]

@@GarageFab very nice. I feel exhausted when I spend 2 hours on a video 🤣

[@GarageFab]

Tell me about it! Something’s gotta change. Either less info or find a way to speed up post production. Imma burn out. Editing is really fun for me. If I could ditch the day job I’d be happy AF filming and editing all day.

[@NightWrencher]

@@GarageFab You and me both bud. I'll try to catch you in vegas this week. I'll be there starting tomorrow for sema

[@GarageFab]

Right on! Sounds good. I’m hoping I can get away from work one of these days to get to Sema myself. 🤞

[@madwand28]

Silver tounged devil. Great presention and awesome welds. Thanks for the education on making duplicates. Helpful.

[@GarageFab]

Thank you my friend!

[@enriquevenegassouper3445]

Hi friend, yust a kind of dumb question.... i´ve just seen you mesure an square with your floor,........are you shure that youre floor is level???

[@GarageFab]

Hey Enrique! My floor is absolutely not level! When I use a bubble level, I have to put the bubble in a certain spot. (Not in the middle) My floor is straight however so the square method is most. The floor could technically be slanted 10 degrees, and the square will still provide an acceptable 90°. Not perfect, but Garage builds rarely are. 😬

[@wayneweaver2341]

Fantastic channel. Hot Rodding 101. Small quick lessons are great. Quick lessons give time to contemplate what you are saying. This is now my favorite channel. Thanks and ‘keep moving forward’

[@GarageFab]

Thank you Wayne! That’s how I learned as a child. Maybe it’s a slow brain, or maybe an overactive brain, but I got overwhelmed quickly, got frustrated and quit most things in school. Hyper focusing on a single aspect until I understood it made all the difference. I figured I’d try to share that mentality with the world. You are appreciated my guy! 🙌

[@jameslangford4748]

I am making identical tabs --- because YOU showed me how ! Thank you.

[@GarageFab]

Lemme know how it goes, James! 🙌

[@leekirtley7234]

Can you please tell me the name of the drill bits you used to drill the bolt holes?😁🇬🇧

[@GarageFab]

Absolutely, Lee! They’re called Hougen RotaCut Hole Cutters. They’re kinda pricey but worth every penny. Here’s a pair of associate links to the two specific sets I own… Small amzn.to/3guFEwJ Large amzn.to/3ukxxL5

[@leekirtley7234]

@GarageFab thanks for that you are a true gent👍👍👍👍👍👍🫡🔥🔥🔥🔥🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧

[@GarageFab]

Anytime!

[@Hoop1993]

When you do a triangulated link bar and the angled link bar has to be longer how does that affect your pinion angle.

[@GarageFab]

Hey Jeremy! This one is always challenging to explain in text so I’ll try a new example. With a triangulated 4 link, the actual length of the bars is not as important as the distance between the front and rear axis’ of those bars. Imagine building a triangulated 4 link on your phone. One bar extends from the top of the phone to the bottom on the right side and another on the left side. These are your bottom bars and they are parallel to the sides of the phone and parallel to each other. Now for the angled bars. One bar will extend from the top right corner of your phone down to the charge port. The other bar extends from the top left down to the charge port. Those bars create a V. Because those bars are angled, they are longer than the parallel bars, but they span the same distance. (From the top of the phone to the bottom) The top represents the front axis and the bottom represents the rear axis. This setup would behave like a parallel 4 link, maintaining a constant pinion angle. Lemme know if this makes sense. I’m still hunting for the perfect analogy to help explain this to others. To answer your question as you asked it. Longer bars (Or greater spaced axis’) will cause pinion angle to change as the suspension moves. As a rule of thumb, the shorter bars will always begin to pull forward sooner than the longer ones. Cheers!

[@rickbechtel2835]

What type of drill bit are you using in the video? Does it have a pilot drill or is that just a spring loaded locating pin

[@GarageFab]

Hey, Rick! They’re called Hougen RotaCut Hole Cutters. They’re kinda pricey but worth every penny. Here’s a pair of associate links to the two specific sets I own… Small amzn.to/3guFEwJ Large amzn.to/3ukxxL5 Both sets have the spring loaded pin and an included punch. I often make a shallow hole from a drill bit rather than use the punch.

[@immanutt4442]

Pipefitting can have : center to center - end to center - and or end to end measurements henceforth ...

[@GarageFab]

I don’t remember this video well enough to understand the relation. 🤔

[@kennethgrimes5494]

Either you can or you can't,ya just got to know how and be willing to try.

[@GarageFab]

Yes! 🙌

[@SegoMan]

For Hawks Sake just build a CNC plasma table. the time you wasted on those brackets could have gone to the table build. Once it was built 1 minute / bracket max for a weld ready part.

[@GarageFab]

I would LOVE a plasma table! But where would I put it? The purpose of Garage Fab is to show people they can still do amazing things without amazing tools. Things would be much easier (and better) but that’s not very helpful for my fellow plasma table-less viewers. 🤔

[@GarageFab]

I’ll check the videos out! Thank you my friend. 🙏

[@eliinthewolverinestate6729]

Watching this makes me realize how ugly my shock mounts are.

[@GarageFab]

Surely they’re not as bad as you make them sound.

[@Ghost-um2jw]

I love these videos man, keep em coming. I learn alot every time!

[@GarageFab]

Thank you Brother. House is almost done. Hopefully I can get back into a rhythm!

[@Akya2120]

To make a template out of metal, would you just double the torch offset?

[@GarageFab]

This may be exactly what you just said, reworded; I made a metal template once and I still used the wooden template to make it. After designing the part on card stock, I would normally remove 3/16 of an inch from all sides to make a wood template. For a metal template I would double that and remove 3/8 of an inch from all sides. 3/16 will be added when tracing the template to make the metal template, and another 3/16 would be added when tracing the metal template to make the final part. The final part would then be close to the intended size. Be aware, though, that tracing outside corners of a template will produce rounded corners, so when making a metal template you might want to do the outside course by hand.

[@jackmatthews2840]

Buy a C&C machine .Your lungs will thank you.

[@GarageFab]

I would love to have a CNC machine. Unfortunately even the smallest table won’t fit in my garage. And putting it in my living room wouldn’t help my lungs any.

[@rcmedia141]

Another bangin vid. Glad you are sponsored now.

[@GarageFab]

Thank you! Not exactly “sponsored”. Not yet anyway. Just managed to get a referral account set up so I get a percentage of sales. Haven’t seen a dollar just yet! 😂

[@westtexastll1978]

@@GarageFab YEAH BUDDY! 🙌🏻 "Garage Fab" *FTW* 🙌🏻 🚙💨💨💨

[@GarageFab]

Maybe I’ll be rich sometime in the next 30 years. 😁

[@joshua.merrill]

As a lazy person, I got my own CNC plasma table so I could prototype easier. Will it pay itself off? Probably not, but I enjoy not having to work as hard.

[@GarageFab]

Really?! Everyone always says “It paid itself off the first year!!” I will most certainly get one in the future when I have room for it. Currently I want to show people that you don’t NEED one to create amazing things, but I’m not trying to torture myself forever.

[@joshua.merrill]

@@GarageFab I bought it for personal use, not business. So, I’m just making brackets and artwork and whatnot for fun projects. I just hate paying other people to do something that won’t turn out exactly how I want it. If I started using it to make money, it would definitely pay for itself quick. Granted, I’ll be doing a 4x4 Cummins swap on my ‘70 El Camino, so it’ll probably pay for itself on that project, accounting for how much it’d cost to pay someone else to do the work.

[@GarageFab]

So much truth. 👏

[@kentdixon5716]

Enjoyed your video, what kind of drill bit/milling cutter did you use at 7:20 of the video, thanks for posting!

[@GarageFab]

Hey, Kent! They’re called Hougen RotaCut Hole Cutters. They’re kinda pricey but worth every penny. Here’s a pair of associate links to the two specific sets I own… Small amzn.to/3guFEwJ Large amzn.to/3ukxxL5 Thanks for watching!

[@kentdixon5716]

@@GarageFab Hey, thanks for the quick response, and the link, very much appreciated !!

[@GarageFab]

Anytime my man. Hope you enjoy them as much as I do.

[@nonsequitur807]

I prefer a longer format 30 mins like a sitcom

[@GarageFab]

Noted! That’s good because I’ve been having a hard time keeping them short lately. Thank you!

[@jonathanaaron822]

Inererested in a doing my bone stock 87 max

[@GarageFab]

Fellow 87 Guy! I’m happy to help where I can. Hit me up anytime here or on Instagram. @GarageFab.

[@ArvizuDesignFab]

Awesome video dude. I really like all your recommendations in all this kind of builts!! I've been busy on the last months and haven't been able to upload more content on the Cherokee chief built yet 😐. Cheers from Baja!

[@GarageFab]

Thank you as always, my friend! I’ll definitely be checking it out! 👏

[@ArvizuDesignFab]

@@GarageFab 🤘😎

[@calebmcandrews2903]

Why do lots of people put four link on inside of frame. Lack of space on the outside? I want to put mine on the outside of the frame. Right where the leaf springs are. Is there any problems with this?

[@GarageFab]

That is the only acceptable reason, Caleb. Link bars should be pushed as close to the wheels as possible, especially load bearing link bars. (Link bars that have a spring, air bag, or coil over on them.) On most Mini trucks, unfortunately, there isn’t enough room between the wheels and the frame so inside is the only option. The problem with that is an axle that’s a little less stable and is prone to bending overtime under the weight of the vehicle. Summarized, if you’re able put your links on the outside, do it!

[@calebmcandrews2903]

@@GarageFab thanks so much. Looking forward to your next video. Your a badass dude

[@GarageFab]

Sorry Caleb, a bunch of comments got flagged and hidden for some reason, Including one in which you asked about the Watts link location. I have no idea where that comment is. 🤷‍♂️ You can technically locate the watts link center anywhere you want, but that center pivot is your vehicle roll center. Putting it higher will reduce body roll in turns but installing it too high can cause strange handling characteristics. I’ve been told a lower roll center is better with a sway bar that can take body roll. I do NOT race though so I don’t have much experience with that. Thank you, my friend.

[@Junk_GSX]

Awesome video! This is the kind of stuff I want to do on in my free time but school has kept me busy :/ Watching this also made me realize how much I’ve been slacking on my truck. So far I realized I should probably redo the engine mounts from the po because the 4g63 isn’t sitting level with the ground/is tilted down towards the firewall; being the pickup tube is in the front on the stock oil pan, it makes me worried about potential oil starvation problems down the road. Other than that, the only progress I’ve made is I mounted an intercooler and found some black 1g seats and steering wheel lol

[@GarageFab]

Hey I appreciate that little bit of info! I haven’t mounted the engine yet so I’m glad you mentioned the oil pickup. I’ll be paying attention to that now. Don’t stress my man! I’m sure the truck will be there after you crush school. Focus on the stuff that matters. Keep in keeping on, Brother!

[@Junk_GSX]

@@GarageFab I’m currently working on my last year for my mechanical engineering degree and it seems like only the hard classes that eat up time are left lol I honestly didn’t really think about the pickup until I saw how tilted my engine sat. Mine was moved 2in forward to use a starion tail shaft so I think that’s where the angle came from. I’m gonna look into oil pan options and drop the front mounts a bit to level it out

[@GarageFab]

Did the transmission mount change with the Starion tail shaft? I’d think moving the engine forward would tilt it forward a negligible amount not rearward. Either way it sounds like you know what to do. Also… mechanical engineering! I’m highly jealous.

[@Junk_GSX]

@@GarageFab Yeah so the rear transmission mount needs cut and extended (not too hard to do) but since I wasn’t the one who made the front mounts, the timing side of the engine just seems to sit higher due to how they were made. Idk how level a 4g63 sits in a mm using the stock mounts in the stock location, but mine definitely seems off. Originally I was just supposed to finish the transmission mount but seeing the angle on the engine, it made me nervous. And yeah ME is cool but I lowkey wish I went to trade school for fabrication instead. I think I learned a lot of useful stuff I could apply but I’ve always liked the hands on approach and cardboard aided drafting more lol

[@frente2zapatista]

Thank you for sharing the knowledge, we need more air ride videos my man !!!!!!

[@GarageFab]

I agree! I’m getting excited that we actually get to play with some air springs soon! 🙌

[@matt_1969ChevyC1o]

Learned a ton with this. Thanks man

[@GarageFab]

My pleasure Matt!

[@turboflush]

What drillbit is that in the drillpress?

[@GarageFab]

Scroll down the description of the video and you’ll find a pair of links to the two sets I personally have. If you don’t see them, search for Hougen RotaCut Hole Cutters. They’re pretty spendy but worth every penny. 🙌

[@joet.4756]

CAD, cardboard aided drafting

[@GarageFab]

Yup! I might have to steal that one too. 😆

[@chriskappes9170]

I agree im mew to this site but love the information and tips thanks

[@cjwickie]

where did you get those super sweet hole cutters? (for lack of better description)

[@GarageFab]

That’s exactly what they are! They’re called Hougen RotaCut Hole Cutters. They’re kinda pricey but worth every penny. Here’s a pair of associate links to the two specific sets I own… Small amzn.to/3guFEwJ Large amzn.to/3ukxxL5

[@cjwickie]

@@GarageFab those are def going in the cart for later thanks!!!

[@GarageFab]

@cjwickie Lemme know what you think! Cheers

[@slashsplat]

Excellent. Thank you.

[@GarageFab]

My pleasure. Thank you!

[@halfwheeler2]

great video. subscribed after watching my first one. Look forward to old and new content!

[@GarageFab]

Thank you! Happy to have you. You caught me in the middle a trial run of releasing a video every two weeks. So far so good. I’ll see you the weekend after next!

[@craigfuller6187]

Really like the videos. I am in Henderson. I have a CNC Plasma table if you ever need some parts done. Always happy to help.

[@GarageFab]

Thank you, Craig! I very well may take you up on that. The goal with the current build is to show people that they can build an entire vehicle with basic tools. The next project however will be less “how-to” and more pure badassness. I can already think of several things a plasma table would help with.

[@motionsick]

Made my first robotic camera rig with an angle grinder and a drill press. When the studio employees came to pick it up they were shocked that I didn't own a lathe or a mill. Learned in the stone countertop install industry where final fit and finish is done with an angle grinder, a square, and a straight edge.

[@GarageFab]

Yes!! 🙌 It doesn’t take much to do great things. Matter the few tools you have and you’ll be nearly unstoppable!

[@johnbarker5009]

Excellent video! Those of us who don't have all the expensive tools of an established custom shop with a steady stream of gold chain customers need our own methods.

[@GarageFab]

Yes! That’s the entire goal of the channel, John. You’ve got no idea how much it means to me to hear that coming from a viewer. Thank you my friend. 🙏

[@russellhall8716]

You've done it again man. Great video as usual. Gettin a bit worried hadn't seen ya for a while. See the house reno comment. That'll do it figure. Cheers from Aus.

[@GarageFab]

Thanks, Russell! Yeah, construction on the master bath is in progress as we speak at that’s it for major surgery on the house. Then I can get back in the garage! 🙌 Can’t wait.

[@michaelosmon]

I wouldn't fault you if you used a Metabo grinder instead of that pos hf one.

[@GarageFab]

I had to look that up. I hadn’t heard of Metabo before today. Nope. Still won’t switch. I’ve purchased 4 HF grinders so far in the last 5 years, none of them have been a POS and I’ve spent less than half what I usually spend on grinders. If I ever switch it’ll be because I finally get annoyed with the Harbor Freight switch.

[@michaelosmon]

@@GarageFab all my old hf Chicago electric tools broke at the seams. The Bauer stuff is a little better. My main/favorite angle grinder is a makita, I've had it 18 years and it was free with a rorary hammer. I use it all the time and never had a problem with it, so there's my bias showing. Sorry for crappin on your tools. Your work is what I'm here to see and it's definitely good stuff.

[@GarageFab]

No offense taken, Michael. If I could find a tool that would last me 18 years, that would be incredible. I worry that’s likely one of those “they don’t make ‘em like they used to” things. However, I’ve never bought a Makita. Perhaps I should. Thank you for the kind words.

[@michaelprince814]

Really enjoy the simple way you explain things. I have holden rodeo here in Australia which is the same as an Isuzu pup over in America. And your 4 link videos are going to help me greatly for when I convert mine to a 4 link set up. Cheers

[@GarageFab]

Sweet! Happy to be of service Michael. Can’t wait to see what you do with the Rodeo. 😍

[@bearcoatcustoms3619]

Can’t get enough of your videos can’t tell you how many times I go back and watch them. (A lot ) with that said how about best bag placement video in the rear suspension.

[@GarageFab]

Thank you my man! People like you are the ones that make the hard work worth it. I might be able to squeeze that in in the next couple of videos. I will not be doing bag placement on the Mighty Max, and it won’t be needed in the next project, but I imagine that’s something people need to know! 👍

[@terrysibley9636]

Nice, what style hole cutter was that. And where are the u available. Thank you

[@GarageFab]

Look up Hougen Rotocut hole cutters. I have two sets, large and small. I don’t remember for sure where I got them but I believe Amazon. Possibly eBay. Let’s see if KZbin will allow me to paste links… amzn.to/3pU8xrk amzn.to/3FYuD1J

[@terrysibley9636]

@@GarageFab thank you sir

[@GarageFab]

Anytime, Terry.

[@GarageFab]

Anytime, Terry.

[@CarlosAPaz]

Awesome, what bit do you use to punch the holes? Thank you for a great video again

[@GarageFab]

Thank you, Carlos! The size of the hole depends on the size of bolt you’re using. The bolt should barely fit through the hole. In my case it was a 9/16” bolt so a 9/16” hole is perfect. In the video I used Hougen Rota-Cut hole cutters but as mentioned, I usually drill through all of the tabs at once using a regular 9/16” high speed drill bit. 🍻

[@scrapingpavement]

Killer HowTo🤘🏼🤘🏼

[@GarageFab]

Thank you my man! 🙏

[@JusSkott]

And like that, I now have an idea why I tweaked the passenger side axle tube.

[@GarageFab]

Oh yeah?! What made you think that?

[@JusSkott]

@@GarageFab 79 impala sports coupe, 9" drop with Viking coilovers, with factory rear springs removed. Threw the car hard into a few turns and noticed 2 degrees of negative camber on the right rear. Some might say it was Maybelline, while others would say, there was two parallel bars missing. Which would have kept things true. Unlike what I have told many officers. Nope, I have no idea how fast I was going back there. Fun fact: can tell you exactly what turn it happened on, cause my old man was following, thought it was funny to gap em, and display the car now has body roll equivalent to a brick. lol

[@GarageFab]

Oh! That sounds like it was fun while it lasted! I’m not clear where the tweaking came from. Are the coil overs mounted pretty far inward, or near the wheels?

[@JusSkott]

@@GarageFab The way its setup is, factory springs are removed. Where the coilovers bolt in the factory shock location, near the outer sides of the rear-end. The tweaking accursed where the axle tubes are pressed into the pumpkin itself. Old school trick was to weld the tubes to the pumpkin. Welds my lazy ass didn't have done. That being said, once the disc brake conversion is done on the 12 bolt, 4:11 posi. The welding will be done as well. Just as a little circle track mod of throwing axle saver bearings in the rear-end as well. That should be later this summer. After the 355 and th350c is ziptied and duct taped in the car.

[@patg8246]

Dang dude this video is a treasure trove of tips. Friggen good video man

[@GarageFab]

Thank you Pat! Thrilled you enjoyed. 🙌

[@ohar7237]

Is the extra little "jog angle" in the narrow side to avoid burn through and overheating / overpenetration of the tab while welding? Also, regarding the Cubitron II flap discs... a lesson I have learned over many years and many fields is that if there is a 3M product, and a knockoff of a 3M product, *even though* the 3M product costs more up front, it's going to be cheaper in the long run. This has been true of abrasives, adhesives, medical equipment, you name it. I'm a cheap bastard, and I keep doing this comparison on my own, and eventually, after several decades, I learned to just buy the danged 3M product. It actually **is** better.

[@ohar7237]

Also, goddamn, son, your MIG is almost as precise as my TIG. That's some solid work. (I feel comfortable calling you "son", because your beard is still colored. 🤣 )

[@kevinwillis5714]

What drill bits are you using on those tabs? I need to get some!!!

[@GarageFab]

Hey Kevin! Those hole cutters are some of my most prized possessions. They’re spendy but very much worth every penny. Go to the description under the video and click more and you’ll find a pair of links I just added for the two sets I own. If you don’t see the links, search for Hougen RotaCut Hole Cutters. Cheers!

[@beastwolf7]

That's genius

[@GarageFab]

Thank you my friend! 🙏

[@faroironandcustoms6577]

Very nice video. Now I'll just keep those tips in my mind.

[@GarageFab]

Very much appreciated, my friend! 🍻

[@joell439]

👍👍😎👍👍 awesome

[@GarageFab]

Thank you, Joel! 🙌

[@shimxininahi8024]

Grinder Identical Duplicate Parts

[@GarageFab]

Yes!

[@shimxininahi8024]

@@GarageFab Your show in the next level, love the explanations fabrication ideas.

[@GarageFab]

Thank you my friend! 🙏

[@foghornleghorn8536]

At 10:12 you made your measurement from your bed mount to locate your upper bar mount. I'm wondering if that actually matches up to the inside edge of your frame? Thanks for putting these videos together and making them available.

[@GarageFab]

Good eyes. There’s the joy of editing. I would NOT suggest basing ANY suspension measurements off of the bed mounts or anything welded to the frame rails. I learned when building utility trucks that nothing can be trusted including frame holes, rivets, etc. I measured off-camera and found that the bed mount towers were NOT even left to right but the hats/mount plates welded to the tops were. Those mount plates were both 3/4 away from the inside of the frame rails. Really confusing. There’s a lot of that kind of stuff I leave out trying to save time and make things less confusing. Shrug 🤷‍♂️

[@foghornleghorn8536]

@@GarageFab I understand completely, and again thanks for making the videos I'm learning a lot.

[@meatcreap]

Good stuff!

[@GarageFab]

Gracias Amigo! 🙏

[@mackellyman5642]

Wood Men and Metal Men complement each other in thinking IMO...

[@GarageFab]

Tell me more! That’s an interesting sentiment.

[@mackellyman5642]

@@GarageFab, I'm a carpenter by trade and have migrated to metal, and I can tell you have a carpenter background if Im reading you right?

[@GarageFab]

Interesting! Not necessarily a “background”. I was a maintenance supervisor for an apartment complex for a while. There was some carpentry but not much. I occasionally incorporate wood in some if my personal projects. My father was a contractor and built the house I grew up in. He passed when I was 8 so I didn’t get any training. My oldest Brother is a framer/home renovator, but he’s lived 2 states away from me my whole life. Maybe a woodworker in my blood? What made you switch, Mac?

[@mackellyman5642]

@@GarageFab Aaron just clicked on your channel for the first time (Duplicating Parts with a grinder without CNC), and within a minute of watching you with the T-square and old-school carpenters square to establish reference lines you got my attention. I migrated to Structural Steel with attached wood because it's so absolute, if you get my drift...

[@GarageFab]

Yes! Some of my favorite stuff is steel/wood. Given enough time I’ll fill my house with it. Here was a really simple hybrid project, though this one probably doesn’t count as “wood”. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJncqWipdsSSprc Cheers! Have a productive weekend.

[@dap1127]

What bit is that in the drill press???

[@GarageFab]

Scroll down the description of the video a little ways and you’ll see a pair of links for the two hole cutter sets I have. If you don’t see them, look up Hougen RotaCut hole cutters. They’re pricey but worth every penny. I don’t know if KZbin allows links. Let’s see what happens… Hougen RotaCut Hole Cutters Small amzn.to/3guFEwJ Large amzn.to/3ukxxL5

[@dap1127]

Thanx for the info, and keep making awesome videos.

[@GarageFab]

Anytime, Dana.

[@PeterHatch-mx7zc]

The m.d.s. where would on buy that thks

[@GarageFab]

Mds?

[@PeterHatch-mx7zc]

@Garage Fab sorry the stuff you make the templates out of please

[@GarageFab]

Oh! Mine specifically is a cardboard sold at a local upholstery shop. Unsure where else it could be found. Poster board from Walmart or a craft shop is a similar thickness and would work just as well. I’ll try and locate my exact card stock and let you know.

[@PeterHatch-mx7zc]

@@GarageFab thank you for your time appreciated

[@uppers7703]

Missed ya smile brother :)

[@GarageFab]

Haha!! And I missed your words. Glad to be back at it. 👊

[@frediefarmer]

👍🏽🇺🇸👍🏽

[@GarageFab]

🤙🤙

[@jerrybigrig9475]

👍😎👍

[@GarageFab]

Thank you, Jerry!

[@itzamedave6242]

Glad all is good great video as always 👍

[@GarageFab]

Much appreciated as always, Dave! 🙌

[@calebmcandrews2903]

Hey buddy really looking forward to your watts link video. Happy holidays hope all is well

[@calebmcandrews2903]

Also can I mount my center pivot point at the top of my rear axle instead of in the middle on a watts link? I just don’t want anything below the rear axle. Doing this for a track truck

[@GarageFab]

Thank you Caleb. Getting pretty close to that one. Hang in there!

[@GarageFab]

Hey, Caleb! I got another notification of a comment related to the pivot point on the watts link but I can’t find the whole comment. KZbin deletes some comments and I haven’t figured out the reasons yet. If you still need an answer lemme know!

[@GarageFab]

Found it! Lemme know if you don’t see my reply to this question on another comment.

[@jasonhenley7287]

Great job Aaron! If I use 6 link bars on a triangulate setup, do I need to have all 4 holes on top lined up or just the 4 bar that are parallel that on rear end? Thanks man, love to watch and learn!

[@GarageFab]

Thank you, Jason! I think I need some clarification on that one. Are the 5th and 6th link bars lifting bars? (Air springs mounted to them) I often see this setup with the main bars in front of the axle and the lifting bars behind the axle. Are we on the same page?

[@jasonhenley7287]

Like on your wife's truck, from the axle to the shopping cart handle, there is 2 parallel bar at the bottom, then you have the 2 triangulated on top, right? I am wanting to put 4 parallel bars (the bottom bar will have the bags) then have my 2 triangulated bars too, making a 6 link. I know all 4 parallel bar holes must be inline with each other.The 2 top parallel bar and the 2 triangulated bars, do they have to be inline with each? Or can I put my 2 triangulated bars where where they me be.? Thank you very much for your help sir.

[@GarageFab]

@@jasonhenley7287 I’m still struggling to picture it. Now I’m either seeing each bag mounted to two lower bars, or I’m seeing a typical parallel 4 link with triangulated bars as well. Lemme ask you this… Why? What is the purpose of the additional bars? Don’t take that as a judgmental “why”. Truck building for me has always been more about being original than being practical. So I’m all about weird designs. But if they had a purpose that might help clear things up. OR!! Hit me up on Instagram @GarageFab and DM me a rough sketch!

[@Zachary77]

@@jasonhenley7287 If you are attempting to run triangulated bars instead of a pan -hard with a parallel 4 link then; Your upper parallel bars and your upper triangulated bars all have to have the eyelets(bolt holes) in line with each other, all on the same plane. The four upper frame mounts all have to be in-line with each other along with the four upper axle side control arm mounts. Otherwise there will be alot of bind and would not cycle well if at all, depending on the severity of offset.

[@GarageFab]

@Zach A I appreciate that! I suppose I didn’t really need clarification in order to explain how to make several bars work together. 🤷‍♂️ Thank you my man!

[@andy1200]

saying things are cut with a cnc and saying there printed.... wtf is your deal.... lol

[@GarageFab]

Sorry my man, I don’t know what you just said.

[@andy1200]

@@GarageFab you said the part's we printed. there not printed, there cut. a CNC does not print it subtract metrel to make a part, if it was printing it would be adatev ie a 3d printer....

[@GarageFab]

Oh! I see. Not a fan of figures of speech? I use “print” loosely in regards to just about any product a computer produces. Sorry to offend you.

[@PeterHatch-mx7zc]

👍😊

[@DinasGarage]

Awesome Aaron! So cool man. I hope we don’t have to wait 2 more months for the next one. Hope all is well.

[@GarageFab]

Hahaha! Settle down. House is almost done. Should be able to get back to somewhat of a schedule soon. 👍

[@Numberonecock]

I love your videos, really interesting, down to earth and also amusing too. One question about this particular video, the poly bushings you use on the four bar don't allow any sort of radial movement, like when one wheel goes over a rock and lifts that side of the axle 4", the bushings will bind surely? Or undo the locknut at least. Thats where heim joints come in useful.

[@GarageFab]

Thank you, Paul! You are appreciated. 🙏 The polyurethane bushings I use are not excessively hard. They will allow more than enough articulation for typical street driving. (Like entering a steep driveways at an angle.) They’re not ideal for off road driving. Using poly bushings on both ends of a link bar isn’t usually a problem on fully welded bars, however, I always suggest using at least one heim joint on adjustable bars. Because as you said, no matter how tight that locknut is, it will come loose.

[@meanpaintandbody]

So I have my truck with a triangulated 4 link I was told that the upper link must be in a angle downward to meet the front bumper is that correct?

[@GarageFab]

Is your vehicle bagged or static? If you’re running coilovers, that’s a way of getting an acceptable instant center though it’s a little more complicated than that. Generally both upper and lower rear link bars would be angled in a way that they would hypothetically intersect somewhere near the front end. A bagged vehicle should not have that angle but should be parallel.

[@meanpaintandbody]

@@GarageFab it's bagged lol good thing I'm going to redo it...it was my 1st time in a storage unit like the one u had the truck in so I have to re do the upper links thanks 🙏

[@GarageFab]

If it’s already built and you don’t have a crazy vibration or a shot driveshaft I’d just run it and see how it works. I generally advise against angling the bars in favor of a parallel setup. You’ll sacrifice a negligible amount of performance but get better drive line longevity.

[@meanpaintandbody]

U think 3/16 2*2 for the lower links would be good?

[@GarageFab]

Most often I use 1/8” wall 1.5” round tubing for non-load bearing link bars on street vehicles and 2x2” 1/4” wall square for load bearing bars. (Bars that have an air spring or coil over attached to them.