How To Make Refractory Fire Bricks For A Forge Or Foundry

These bricks are designed to be highly thermally insulative which they achieve by holding small pockets of air via the perlite and vermiculite.
To buy perlite: amzn.to/3ibql02
To buy vermiculite: amzn.to/3WWSvLi

[@mosaquatics1802]

This is the type of videos needed when you're looking for something specific. Short, concise, to the point. Great stuff.

[@jamescopeland5358]

Amen

[@ellisjoel6109]

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[@torinquinton4742]

@Ellis Joel Instablaster ;)

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[@ellisjoel6109]

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[@Felix199393]

I love how the video just starts, instantly comes to the point and then has a few good infos if you want to keep watching instead of making you search for relevant stuff in a 45 minute episode of needless words. It's perfect

[@tommaika9121]

Tip: if your mixture is sticking inside your wooden form, soak the form in water for about 15 min first brick produced, and after tamping, the wooden form will slide right up for you. If you introduce wet brick mortar to a dry wooden form,, the wet mortar will create a suction and adhesion process by default since your mortar is touching dry wood. After the first brick slides out of your Pre-wetted wooden form, you will dip your form for only a few seconds in the water bath to make it ready for the second batch of mortar forming a brick.

[@joshuagardner5580]

paint oil on the inside wall of forms. Oil prevents the wood from absorbing moisture, and prevents mix from sticking to wood.

[@robking5896]

I've watched a lot of these videos and this is easily the most useful. Covered the important things, didn't leave anything out, recipe is clear, proof at the end, suggestions for further improvement included. Great work. Keep making videos. Thanks, Rob

[@makeitquick9638]

Thanks a lot Rob, means a lot.

[@levicampbell1819]

Finally! A video that actually tells you the different ingredients to use! I've been looking for days. Thank you!

[@zeroclout6306]

Your delivery on this video was top notch. 10/10

[@duanesharon]

Absolutely much appreciated. I am needing to make a few changes of what I have going on myself glad to have come across this.

[@FASKY2788]

C clamp across the longer wood pcs. Thanks for sharing that mixture, I can't wait to try it! Nice job!

[@jaxwylde2139]

For easier removal of the form, you can use regular wood clamps (one or two clamps across each narrow end of the form). It'll take seconds to clamp the form together, and just as long to loosen the clamps after whatever waiting period you decide to use. You can also wrap the long ends in cling-wrap, if sticking to the from is an issue. Someone else may have already mentioned this, but I only read a few pages of top comments and didn't see that suggestion.

[@christopherwilliamson8403]

I did something similar, When making the form I wrapped it in clear box tape. This made it much easier to lift the form from the brick without it sticking to the wood. I found that the water from the mixture soaks into the wood and sticks to the sides making it difficult to lift.

[@Kurokubi]

I'd imagine they'd work quite well for solid fuel forges and would work even better as a gas forge if you lined it with a small layer of castable refractory cement, maybe replace the cement with powdered clay.

[@-FILTHYBEAST-]

Thanks, out of all the videos I have watched your's is the easiest to understand.

[@beanoneya]

Great video. I appreciate how concise you are!

[@UlissesNalone]

the best video on the subject. Congrats. Simple str8 to the point

[@iasimov5960]

Put hinges on two or three corners of the mold and a toggle latch hasp on the forth. When you want to release the brick, untoggled latch clasp and open the mold. Infinitely reusable. Also might coat the wood with paraffin.

[@BigHat83]

Dust your form with wood ash each time, before putting in the mix. It will act as a releasing agent

[@luciusirving5926]

The old potter trick.

[@robertgranberg6018]

Or use Palm oil/soya oil on the walks inside the concreteform like proffesonal does, before putting in the concrete mix=Nema problema

[@Hellsong89]

For rapid production there is also method of using plunger. Essentially wooden plug size that fits into mold, place the plug on top and while giving lifting force to mold pull the plunger down so it pushes evenly brick out. Also mold surface might be bit too rough so it wont slide easily. Could try painting it witch also prevent wood sucking moisture out from the bricks surface and making it weaker.

[@martynkendrick9813]

Great persuasive test. i'm convinced and going to follow recipe for my builds

[@user-ni8ip9be1x]

Hello, does your company have any refractory procurement needs? We are a Chinese refractory manufacturer with 20 years of experience. We look forward to learning and exchanging with you.

[@butterfliesandtape]

very informative and to the point. thank you, sir!

[@oneyaker]

I would add a dash of PVA fibers, some metacaolin or bentonite clay. The mix would be more plastic and less brittle/crumbly. Also a splash of water glass (sodium silicate) makes a great refractory binding agent.

[@kamilkobza5385]

Ehhh doesnt PVA decompose around 300°C? Why would you put it in fire brick?

[@oneyaker]

@@kamilkobza5385 For better cohesion and consistency during molding/casting as well as crack prevention/propagation during curing cycle. The outer surface would likely retain some fibers as the high temps would not permeate all the way.

[@carnosinehobs7759]

Just what I needed. Im trying to get an idea of how I am going to make an electric arc furnace. It needs a large firebrick.

[@xander9564]

Great video and clear explanation.

[@iiniijewelry]

Great video. To the point and not long and drawn out. To release the bricks easily. Line mold with news paper. Will burn off and help draw out moisture. 🤷🏽‍♂️ Just an idea.

[@wateryblaze]

Two or three ways around your problem... next time maybe. You suggested a hinge; yes and a clip or catch to avoid having to unscrew the form. Oil the inside of the form with either motor oil or the proprietary release agent at extra expense... nah. Motor oil works quite well. I see someone suggested Pam and I assume that it is cooking oil or release agent in aerosol form. Don't have it in New Zealand. If you put a very small taper on the mold, from top to bottom, this will also help. Push your block out the wider end using a block of wood, slightly smaller than your brick. Nothing new there, it is how plastic and metal die cast molds are made. Also make sure the inside surface is smooth or the grain runs up and down. A coat of paint will help reduce the rough surface that the mix wants to hang on to... and again, a bit of oil.

[@agustinrosso4554]

Great video!!

[@rickfelske435]

When we made concrete blocks or hose foundations, we used a mixture of 50/50 diesel/hydraulic fluid sprayed on the forms. It will never stick.

[@bitzer8115]

Some Tilers and brickies use the same method for their mixers. Light spray with diesel before use and the barrel of the mixer stays nice and clean.

[@nguyr]

I made these bricks recently and found them to be quite sandy and loose. Eventually they set up but are still quite crumbly and fragile. I think my sand is coarser than the video. I made a second batch I went with 9:9:3:4 "liters" of each ingredient and 1 pound of bentonite clay. The bricks set up much faster and could be moved after 1 night instead of 2-3 days. The original recipe was like a sugar cube and the modified one is ice cream cake filling 😉 Unscrewing the mold each time works fine but takes a while. I made a hinged brick form recommended in the video, only need one hinge and a latch in the opposite corner. The hinge does not move that much in the hinge corner while you're opening it so it tends to stick and pull the corner apart. I recommend knocking the form still and then opening the hinge. Great video!

[@makeitquick9638]

The ones from the video were a little crumbly too, but not as fragile as yours it seems. Mine got thrown out while I was away so I've decided to make some more and will revamp the recipe to address the issue, I will take your adaptation into consideration when making them. Glad you enjoyed the video, I'm planning on making a new one for the new brick design so look out for that.

[@MetalMario137]

@@makeitquick9638 Did you ever finish that brick redesign?

[@moonolyth]

Very good formula for home build ... .. . For longtime use you really can't get by without using true refractory Portland cement will last a while. The mix is good perlite and vermiculite then adding the higher temp dence refractory purchased. Perhaps mixe a little water glass in and, keep it as dry as possible. No doubt you can bring regular cement to high temp for a time but won't last...only temporary. My dad used to make Portland cement quite a long time ago got sprayed by it in the arm just a spot..went right through him the guy in front of him got it in the chest and died on the spot, The hot stuff.

[@moonolyth]

@serenedreams I'm supposing there was back pressure behind the holes they were trying to clear out and some of that material spat out.

[@texasironforge.4913]

It's a really great video thank you sir what I do is IU's C clamps first I make the measurements of my wood forms and then instead of having to screw or nail the forms I just use the C clamps to hold my form and once in my bricks are hardened I just take off the seat clamps and the patterns come right off you should try some c-clamps or those type of clamps that people use for carpentry

[@zebrabike9]

C clamps or bar clamps work perfectly .

[@julialeslie9213]

smart

[@fbpliegorrivero8869]

Very informative, thanks so much.

[@horacerumpole6912]

Good job-concise and to the bull point

[@franciscomendes2448]

Excellent. Thank you.

[@Asdfbedffhdsxe345]

Great video thanks! On another video I saw a chap cut wire wool into pieces and put that in the mix, he said it makes them make stronger

[@makeitquick9638]

A good idea. Not sure if it will make the bricks less likely to crack, but it will definitely help hold them together longer if they do crack.

[@markschweter6371]

Alternate release method, a "slip sheet" lining inside the mould. Could be a simple as a plastic bag, compact material to fill the form, slide out brick. Also, keeping the brick wrapped while curing could help strengthen the bond by keeping the cement from drying out too fast while curing.

[@StrokeMahEgo]

I feel like a wax paper would be good for this

[@beanoneya]

I came here to say this, 3 years too late 😅

[@dcsensui]

If the forms are two "L" shaped pieces, they can be released without disturbing the bricks. Can keep them together with a couple of clamps until the mortar mix is compressed into the form. Release the clamps, then pull the form apart.

[@OneCupOfCoffee204]

Excellent video, thanks.

[@neilmicke1622]

Before slip form concrete for roads, the forms were sprayed with oil. When we used wood forms, we brushed waste oil on, no sticking there but cement would stick on un-brushed wood.

[@yewwtooob]

Wax works too

[@jojodisco11]

You're a legend thank you!!! 🤙🔥

[@anthonyd7637]

Is this Ben steins son? The clear eyes guy? Lol nice video. Nice quick video. Very rare lol

[@robertboykin1828]

thank you.I was wondering about it's contents.

[@carlosmehicano8052]

Hey if you see this do you think you could cast into a mould made of this, provided you ground the components up a bit first to make the surface a little finer?

[@erithkaminore1871]

Great video, thanks!!! How long should I leave the bricks to dry?

[@rasheedmaghrani1610]

Thank you for your wonderful video . Even if i didnt understand that liters of water . But i understand how the mixture shoud be to make the brike . Thank you very very much .

[@makeitquick9638]

Hi, The reason behind using litres was to use an easy volumetric measurement rather than weight for example, as weight could vary with sand types or wetness for example. Glad you liked it. Let me know if you'd like me to make a video on something else.

[@iremcalscpala8]

many thanks for great video

[@robertbrawley5048]

Informative? You bet . And in less than 4 minutes. Typically videos of this subjec take 27 minutes. EXCELKENT presentation & top KZbin award for condensed information delivery

[@Tawheed_101]

Thanks for the video an it was very informative

[@oroposonline]

very interesting and helpful thanks allot

[@SeavaBliss]

Thank you so much!

[@smashedbyhashish]

Thanx for sharing!

[@GergC0521]

Might I suggest making your form from Melamine boards. They are highly slippery, no need to take apart or make a hinge

[@phaledax3661]

I had the same first thought, Melamine boards is the way to go for concrete and brick forms.

[@kalfaxplays7899]

very interesting. would love to know how long it needed to sit before they became usable for a forge.

[@jamal69jackson77]

You could also use cornstarch or diatomaceous earth to coat the sides of the form and make it easier for the brick to slide off.

[@tiaan_va]

Thanks for this awesome video. For the ratios, are the ratios based on volume or one weight?

[@l0I0I0I0]

How well are the bricks holding up and how much have you used them? TY for sharing! Regular Portland cement? Can you use hydrolic high temp cement?

[@phillean]

Very useful, thabks

[@odinallfather4560]

Great video

[@Valkrss]

I know this is a really old video and you've probably been told this or figured it out by now. Ensuring a smooth form surface and applying a releasing agent like form oil would do you worlds of good.

[@Valkrss]

Otherwise, I clicked this video because of the length, and you really did cover all the bases. Thanks.

[@grads4954]

instead of turning it into bricks, would this work for the foundry like Grant Thompson has? would this be able to be used in a metal container?

[@louiejayjayme8095]

nice work bro, i've been really looking for some refractory materials (trying to buy) but it's unavailable here in my country, but i found your ingredients available here, this is a very big help for me, thank you so much, i subscribed and liked keep creating informative vids like this man, your off to a great start

[@makeitquick9638]

Thanks a lot for the support Louie Jay Jayme, I've been thinking of making another video but I can't think of another small project like this, definitely open to suggestions though.

[@MASSExpedition]

Which country is this, per chance? Very interested in tradeskills and their practices worldwide.

[@user-ni8ip9be1x]

Hello, does your company have any refractory procurement needs? We are a Chinese refractory manufacturer with 20 years of experience. We look forward to learning and exchanging with you.

[@pomodorino1766]

Thanks!

[@rockadoodoo]

Good video.

[@elliottdebell7783]

What a delightful voice

[@makeitquick9638]

Isn't very inspiring is it.

[@garyday6512]

Excellent ☆

[@watahyahknow]

maibe make the form with a slight taper same as you would with the mould for casting metal once it starts lifting the walls move away from the brick instead of sliding up on its sides , might allso help to make sumting along the top edge of the mould to make the top edges less sharp

[@anomikak1062]

what tyoe of cement did you use? 2cents: Put a plastic garbage bag over the mold and press it down inside. can be used to cover the brick right after pouring and used to lift the brick out the next day.

[@dennyofthepines1457]

Could you build the form with slightly tapered sides? It would give a lot less friction when removing the form from the material.

[@punkeasy]

Fantastic video. But just one question, Is there a reason to use both vermiculite and pearlite. Rather than just one or.

[@brettmciver432]

Have you tried this with water glass? ( Sodium silicate?) If you do you can set it off quickly by forcing co2 through the brick .

[@eyesofthecervino3366]

I know I'm late, but is this something I can just mold into an oven shape? Or does is have to be in smaller pieces to keep it from cracking?

[@cresilverin2074]

This video helps alot but I have some odd questions. I know the video is super old but I'm curious if this mixture can hold up to bigger sizes? For instance, if I wanted to take a 12 gallon bucket and fill it half way with this stuff, then press in a 6 gallon bucket to make a hole, would the resulting cast of this be strong enough to hold a lid of the same materials? I will prolly be trying this method despite the potential cost risks unless someone with more knowledge can convince me it's a bad idea

[@jregamey]

I got to much updraft on my wood stove it's missing the top baffles I making my own now. Hopfully that helps

[@thewordmadeflesh]

Did you use water at all or just mix the ingredients with no water?

[@luciusirving5926]

I wonder if it's possible to use foaming agents for aircrete to turn pottery clay into refractory bricks. Refractory bricks do have to be lighter than generic bricks from hardware stores.

[@steverose3318]

I'm wondering how this mix would hold hold up if it were used to line the bottom of a barrel wood stove. I'd use steel mesh as a means to hold it all together, like you would for a concrete type of pour.

[@tonypower5625]

Good job my friend. I have a question ...if I make your formula I guess I can cover the inside of my future metal forging unit....There are people that uses plaster of Paris...instead of Portland cement...do you see any value on that???

[@sailoca]

Hi there, how long do your bricks cure for, and do you bake them or heat them before first use? How do you know when they're ready?

[@SatanBrain13]

You could just oil the form with motor oil, vegetable oil etc so the form doesn't stick to the Crete, this is common practice in masonry

[@Nick-nk2iq]

Hi there, I am looking to make these bricks but unsure what size the perlite and vermiculite needs to be. I found a bag of 50/50 perlite-vermiculite at 0.14 and 3 millimeters, is this too coarse?

[@mikenr]

Any ideas if adding steel wool would make the bricks more durable? I want to make some for my wood burner.

[@offgridcarnivore]

Good vid

[@lulutileguy]

good job bro

[@stanleyjaxen8759]

with concrete wont the lime break down with heat?

[@carlschmiedeke151]

But do they become powdery after awhile, or do they stay as hard after a year or so or do they fall apart

[@sonjaaltun472]

Do you think this type of brick would be fine to use in a masonry cookstove as the insulating material?

[@adrianlanga5402]

Do you think these would work for the construction of a pizza oven ? How could I make them smooth finish on one side??

[@chaz353535]

hinge on form great idea ive seen it done that way on ytube

[@samuelmontenegroserniotti7146]

Question: I need to make a brick like this but small and extra porous so it can be soaked in alcohol then lit up as a portable camping stove. Would removing the sand from the recepie achieve this?

[@localherobbq]

Very nice. You think it'd be ok to use this mix for a Pizza oven?

[@paulvanhouts3365]

I think hinges work better, use a hasp and staple like closure when setting the form. What do you think?

[@ripno2672]

Very informative

[@andrewbenoit5208]

But how long should they sit and cure??? What if you also added white plaster to the mix to maybe help with their strength?

[@yewwtooob]

Nice. But...how much heat can they take and for how LONG? Also, did you use any stainless steel inside as rebar? Thanks.

[@christophershanepoolejr6127]

Can I use this ads mortar between red fire bricks or will that not work?

[@thdn8127]

What about making the cross section slightly trapezoidal?

[@kevinharvey6214]

Wd40 on sides of form helps stopping it stick to the form; watching concrete pour videos as i am exciting

[@auttocarcom]

Hi is that normal Cement? or refractory cement? Thanks

[@danharold3087]

It has been a few years. How did the bricks stand up to the heat ?

[@dallaspilotcar9293]

how are the bricks holding up? have you improved on the ratios or formula? These bricks are not expensive to make but, if you try to buy them, they cost a lot

[@user-ni8ip9be1x]

sir Hello, does your company have any refractory procurement needs?we will provide a cheap price We are a Chinese refractory manufacturer with 20 years of experience. We look forward to learning and exchanging with you.

[@R3dp055um]

Great video. I *personally* wouldn't opt for this formula because perlite is mostly silicon, and I'm paranoid about silicosis.

[@sammaimas155]

If you had a handle and lid that could provide leverage to compress the brick, would that make it more durable and less crumbly. Just asking for a friend...Great video.