How to make your own Lead Soldiers

[@cliffcantrell7545]

When I cast lead soldiers in the 1960s my kit came with a metal clamp that the mold slid into to hold it upright and steady. I also used a candle to put candle black (soot) on the molds before I poured the lead to help it release from the mold once the soldiers cooled. I also had a small electric melting furnace that the ladle sat in while the lead was melting. Great fun!

[@Manualtransmissions]

Interesting. That would make sense that they had a stand to keep it upright. The soot is a good idea to. Thanx

[@davejackson4687]

@@Manualtransmissions hello, can your pour aluminum into the type of mold you use or will it damage it?

[@theBaron0530]

@@davejackson4687 Aluminum melts at too high a temperature. It'd damage the molds.

[@roxannemoore3045]

I had paint kit to paint the soldiers when they formed. I spent hours with my brothers making these. Imagine young kids today using hot metal.

[@nykrev]

@@theBaron0530 Thank you for your input I was going to ask the same question

[@taffyloo]

Myself, brother and dad also made soldiers during the 60's. Some turned out, some men only would turn out about once every 5 pours! Had to keep the lead very hot, and we used to soot the inside of the moulds with a candle, plus heat the moulds with the torch. Problem was the lead cooling before the whole thing was filled. We had a set of WW2 and WW1, the WW1 men were much skinnier in form and did not turn out well. We also had the metal slot/clamp to slide the moulds into to keep them tight. BTW, we did not use gloves, and we are still around! Thanks for the great memory video!

[@Manualtransmissions]

Thats great to hear. We got this set from my father who played with it in the 50's and 60's as a kid. fun times to think he handled this stuff as a kid. He told us that he shot the soldiers with a BB gun, so thats what we do as well. The BB's stick right in them

[@theBaron0530]

You can find melting pots that are sold for black-powder enthusiasts to use to cast musket balls, or for casting fishing sinkers, and use those. Look online, or ask at a local sporting goods store. I use one that has a cast iron cup or bowl, with a heating coil wrapped around the inside. It holds about a pound of metal, enough to cast 5 or 6 figures in a pass. There are larger models, which hold about 5 pounds of metal, and are designed with a spigot at the bottom. I use linotype metal, which is an alloy of about 70% to 80% tin, with antimony, bismuth, and/or lead, in various proportions. Tin provides a casting with crisp detail, but pure tin is too brittle and the casting would break at weak points. The additional metals improve its casting quality. With metal molds, sometimes I use a mix that has a higher lead content, because it doesn't cool as fast when pouring, and fills the mold better.

[@ethancharlie7916]

Step one: buy the super detailed mold

[@theBaron0530]

It's not really that big a deal. You can find the old molds on the second-hand market-online, on eBay, for example, or at flea markets or toy soldier shows. And there are companies that still make metal molds, or molds in silicon rubber, for homecasting. And for anyone who wants to try, you can make your own molds. The supplies are readily available.

[@thecarnosaurchannel2819]

@@theBaron0530 buy a plastic one and make a mold out of it lol

[@theBaron0530]

@@thecarnosaurchannel2819 You might, but generally, that's piracy.

[@DaLavenderhillMob]

Youve done a really clear well shot video but maybe call it watching someone making lead soldiers. I'm interested in the process start to finish, I'd like to make some moulds

[@nickcavanaugh9586]

fill the moulds with wax then pour plaster of paris over them in a steel can then cast them in brass bronze silver or nickel

[@thecarnosaurchannel2819]

So cool

[@Connwear]

Good show! I've beed doing soldiers since I was a kid but my glue is not working now. What do I need?

[@davidmckab7527]

A 3D Printer?

[@ogee1264]

A nice fish salad with extra herring

[@theBaron0530]

Try a 2-part epoxy. If possible, it also helps to pin the joints, especially if they are molded with a simple butt join, the two faces are flat and just butt up against each other. With the older Seven Years War Prussian molds, for example, there are attachment lugs, but they're a little soft, and pins really help. Brass rod is good to use, but even a piece of a straight pin works. Contemporary masters tend to be made with more substantial attachment lugs, that fit snugly and are strong enough without pinning. Tradition's toy soldiers are generally sculpted that way.

[@brianmcdonald8150]

Not sure wearing nylon gloves while handling molten metal is wise. Nice job though.

[@metaldetectingulster6210]

Wer can I buy the moulds?

[@acm8079]

ebay

[@nykrev]

Link pls?

[@josephgioielli]

Prince August sells them.

[@CalculusVariations99]

Back when lead was fun to sniff and eat

[@smokingunstudios6474]

How did you get the mold

[@Jsellers1965]

He probably doesnt follow youtube much anymore but you can get the molds from ebay. I see them there all t he time. I just bought some silicone ones from Prince August dealer in Wisconsin.

[@matiascejas2753]

you can make an mold with "yeso" too, i don't know how is called this material in english, but is very used for molds. yeso is in Spanish

[@flashkraft]

More modern silicone rubber moulds can be gotten from a company called Prince August but you have to use tin alloy metal in them as lead is too hot and will destroy the mould.

[@jaybdub77]

Uh.. isn’t lead poisonous?

[@StephinMerritt]

only if you inhale the fumes or eat it.

[@taffyloo]

No, that is modern day concept. It is if you eat it, like in paint, but the theory of handling lead being dangerous is a myth. We also messed with mercury, which is also fine, just wash your hands before eating.

[@antr7493]

😁💥🖖

[@soldado2112]

ONLY CASTING, NO MAKE.

[@Manualtransmissions]

You are correct. This is casting lead soldiers from molds