How to Master Cylinder Install and Drill Mod (LS1 F-Body)

[@MapleBoarder78]

Thanks for watching guys! If any of you are struggling with anxiety, depression, or addiction click on the link below to hear my amazing story... kzbin.info/www/bejne/opDcen5uaJqsbpI

[@ezeqkro]

bro this video was so perfect even like 10 years later wtf, thanks for the well informed video

[@MrChevyBird]

Thanks for the video! I watched it twice & in just 3hrs my buddy & I had the job all done. Only difference, I installed a brand new master clutch cylinder & I did NOT disconnect the braided hoes from the transmission. I did all the clutch replacement work under the car. After installation was complete I filled the reservoir with fluid twice, had to pump the clutch by hand a few time(because it sticks to the floor without any fluid in it) till the fluid went down and she stated working like new!

[@MapleBoarder78]

Thanks man, LOL at smoking. I don't smoke. I was trying to make the video before my wife got home with my daughter so I was running around the garage like crazy. I was literally sprinting to my car, then sprinting to my tool box across the garage over and over and trying to film in between.

[@DoctorHemi]

The plot of this movie really holds up...even after all these years!

[@johnknight1981]

im in the process of doing the drill mod now. Your video has helped me out a bunch. Thank you for posting this.

[@kg1016]

One more note. There was nothing wrong with the cylinder on my car, The fitting was plugged where you drilled it out. I drilled out mine as you showed and then I cleaned out all the lines and the pump. Ran fresh new fluid through it and reinstalled it. I hope to get another 80 thousand miles of driving pleasure. (Now that I saw the video on how to change the fluid)

[@MapleBoarder78]

Yup. Filled up the master cylinder resavior with fluid and started bleeding the system. Push clutch pedal all the way to the floor, crack the bleeder for a few seconds, close the bleeder, pull clutch pedal slowely up off the floor. Repeated about 15-20 times until stiffness returned to the pedal and it felt good. Remember to refill the resavior about every 3 times you crack the bleeder of the resavior will run dry and it will suck in air.

[@MapleBoarder78]

The Tick doesn't require the drill mod. I just installed my Tick master today, it's awesome!

[@mattferenchak4153]

Thanks for putting this up. Going to install my Tick M/C soon, and you covered all bases.

[@TheSmokaholik]

I love all your install vids, they give me motivation and knowledge to do all my wrenching. Thx Blue Knight we appreciate ya, Keep em coming!!!! P.S. Whens the cam swap vid coming out, lol?

[@topgunmotorsports]

nice detailed install! I plan on doing this before the spring or whenever I drop my stock manifolds for longtubes...doesn't look like too bad of a job, thanks for the vid

[@michaelreeves5565]

Man thank you sooo much. I just did my 99 TA.

[@MapleBoarder78]

Do you have the stock clutch? If your pedal is sticking it's most likely the stock pressure plate failing like mine and everyone elses.

[@LightsGuard]

Awesome video man! I just bought a Ticks for my ls1 Camaro that I will be putting in shortly. I am unsure if I should do the Drill Mod on my CMC since it's a Tick's; what do you recommend?

[@jwat072]

good video man, with lots of "thats what she said moments" lol

[@fuzz1313]

i am installing my tick master cylinder tomorrow.. do you adjust it once it's in the car? i never received a sheet with how to adjust it like i should have.. any recommendations? I have a 98 z28

[@aaronriggs4430]

Screwdrivers wouldnt work for me on the quick disconnect. The "FORD A/C AND FUEL LINE COUPLER TOOL", part # W83113 at Advance Auto parts, is what you need. It's 8.99 and WORTH IT!! Similar tools are sold at Autozone, Oreilley etc.

[@cam94z28]

I have an LT1, with shorty headers. Ended up having to take that u-bolt out, because somehow the master cylinder rod ended up on the wrong side of the clutch pedal. Now, I can't get the damn thing back in. I installed it while the engine and k-member were out. Almost ready to start the damn thing, so frustrating!

[@simonriddick]

used the online form but no response. I'm going to see how hard it is to remove that bracket so I can open up the hole some more. Also have to do the same to the firewall holes. So far I've tried moving it every way and there's no way from what I can see. Sometimes you miss stuff but I don't think so. It better shift well after this!.

[@Ro99ls1]

Hey sorry for the late reply man my internet has been down :( and yes i went back to a stock clutch on my car it now has about 500 miles on it and counting. The car previously had a spec stage one clutch and it had a shim in it that i left out when i put the new stock clutch in. Maybe i should have left it in? I replaced my spec 1 cus it had heat spots on flywheel and pressure plate.

[@mikkeazy]

Did you bench bleed before installing or when installed I've been having trouble bleeding my hydraulic lines my pedal is still on the ground

[@mikkeazy]

So you straight up hooked everything up and bled like you normally would and it grabbed

[@Ro99ls1]

Awesome video!!! Great detail man thank you. Just got a new clutch in my car and my transmission rebuilt n i unfortunately decided not to change out the slave cus i ran out of cash...of course now my pedal is sticking!!! Ahhhhh :( ima try changing my fluid first if no luck i will also change the master. Does anyone have instructions on how to bleed the system???? Im scared to even mess with that. Were is the bleeding valve on the transmission??

[@philllsxga.7737]

Hi, what is the purpose of drilling out the hose?? Thanks.

[@MapleBoarder78]

More fluid transfer which can help people who are experiencing a “sticky clutch pedal” which is common in these cars.

[@philllsxga.7737]

@@MapleBoarder78 thanks! So I replaced My clutch and slave cylinder, now I barely let out the peddle and the car starts to move, any ideas??

[@MapleBoarder78]

@@philllsxga.7737 Either has air in the hydraulic lines and needs to be bled better, or it was not shimmed properly. Did you do measurements when installing the clutch to determine if you needed a shim behind the slave? If not, and you needed a shim, the clutch will engage close to the floor because the slave bearing can’t reach far enough to push the clutch fingers far enough in. This is what happened to me when I installed my clutch. You can either drop the tranny again and measure for the proper sized shim or you can do what I did and buy an adjustable master cylinder from someone like Tick Performance. An adjustable master will allow you to adjust how far the slave bearing can extend into the fingers of the clutch which will give you better engagement, less clutch wear, and allow the clutch to engage at the center point rather than right off the floor.

[@philllsxga.7737]

@@MapleBoarder78 thanks for that. I installed the luk 04 905 clutch kit and the luk LSC 265B slave cylinder. Three places told me they are compatible. But I know what you mean the factory fingers seem to stick out a little further.. I hope I don't have to take the transmission back down.. You are saying the Tick adjustable master cylinder will correct the problem instead of shimming the slave cylinder if that is my problem??

[@MapleBoarder78]

@@philllsxga.7737 Yes, the adjustable allows the bearing to extend further and reach the fingers better. You can adjust it so far you can change the engagement point from right off the floor to all the way at the very top of the pedal, to anywhere in between simply by turning a threaded nut on the shaft. I decided to go with the adjustable master, I was not dropping that tranny again, lol. It’s not guaranteed, but generally it fixes most people’s issues, including mine. I believe there was a write up on LS1tech.com that showed you how to make your stock master adjustable if you don’t have the $300 for a Tick unit. You may be able to find that thread, but I decided to buy the Tick. I sold my Trans Am years ago when I became Christian so I’m a bit out of the loop on all the recent threads and performance parts.

[@kg1016]

Almost done. But wait, " first you have to crack the bleeder valve", well that's an important step. Could you please tell (or show) me where it is?

[@simonriddick]

I got my tick master cyl in finally but now the bolt holes don't line up! freaking ridiculous. I'm probably just going to put a delco cyl back in. I wish it was as easy as your video shows it :(. I can do it faster now though that's for sure.

[@carperformancecuu]

thanks brother you help'd me alot with these video

[@kg1016]

Good video. A little shy on some of the steps thought. With Pontiac every step of a repair is a lesson in why the company fails to consider designing for repairs. Your disassembly explanation was right on but following up on the reassembly was so weak. You may have done this a couple of times but for a first timer let me see the retainer clips up close and how they work. You totally skipped how difficult that u bolt is to get back in place. Could you follow up on bleeding the system?

[@spartangodzz28]

were the results noticeable at all shifting speeds?

[@derekolds6089]

Your engine bay looks awesome =-O

[@MightFAB]

Thank you for doing a how to on this!

[@Saysasitis]

Hey man, is this the same procedure for a Automatic transmission?

[@michaellane5739]

I….

[@advancedauto]

Great video and play by play. Thank you

[@MapleBoarder78]

Awesome! I'm glad it helped you out!

[@kg1016]

Thanks so much for sharing this video.

[@Ro99ls1]

Oh and sorry again let me rephrase myself. My pedal is not sticking it just feels real soft and i have to push the pedal about 3/4 of the way in before it engages

[@bluey2kz28]

Great instructional vid!

[@Mr11REDREX]

hey man this is a great how to video, just wondering one thing since you seem like you've done this multiple times.. would it be possible to get the braided line off of the master cylinder without actually having to remove the whole thing from the car, it seems like that's the hardest part of the whole process just getting the MC off and on.

[@MapleBoarder78]

I don't think it would be possible since the master is tucked up under the brake booster. There isn't a way I can think of that you could tap out that pin to disconnect the line from the cylinder while it's under the brake booster like that. :(

[@Mr11REDREX]

***** yea that wasn't gonna happen lol I ended up pulling the master out and doing it. How did you figure out where to put that hole in the floor pan to get to the bleeder it is a pain in the ass to get the that screw under there I cant even get a socket on it

[@MapleBoarder78]

I just guessed, I had to drill it two times though to get it right, lol.

[@MapleBoarder78]

Made shifting a little better.

[@AllInOne-bo5vp]

I think you may have answered this question before but to be sure, I had a new engine and clutch installed in my T/A and I noticed that sometimes it wont let me go from 4th to 5th or it wont let me downshift like before, I tried bleeding it which helped a bit but I’m wondering if it the master cylinder or if the clutch wasnt installed properly, I called the shop and they said we’ll look at it for 100$ after charging me 2000$ to do the job… what a rip off… any ideas?

[@MapleBoarder78]

I’d bleed the heck out of it a few times and see if that helps. If not, you may need to go with an adjustable master cylinder from Tick. If the shop didn’t measure for a shim and just threw it in there, the bearing on the slave may not be extending far enough to press the pressure plate fingers in all the way. The Tick unit will allow you to extend the slave bearing further.

[@AllInOne-bo5vp]

@@MapleBoarder78 thanks brother , awesome testimony by the way, keep the faith He’s on his way!

[@jroach482]

awesome video dude thanks.

[@butch4481]

Can i just change the master cylinder and knock the pin out and not take the line off the trans

[@MapleBoarder78]

It’s worth a shot. I can’t think of why it wouldn’t work.

[@jimcathell275]

How did it work?

[@simonriddick]

I had one star washer behind the bracket on the right which was a bitch to get at. I'm installing a tick performance master cyl and it's super hard to get in there properly. I had to remove my brake res and that egr pipe on the side. The problem right not is that the bolt holes don't line up on that bulky pos :(. Have to wait for a friend to come help me. I was able to pull the original out the top but I had to kneel on the frame.

[@vetteluvnh]

Outstanding! Thank you

[@MapleBoarder78]

Google "ls1tech how to bleed clutch". You should get some web pages with info on how to do it.

[@dr.peppertruck1817]

Is that the oem line?

[@MapleBoarder78]

Yes

[@yvonjasser]

Very nice video thanks! You need to stop smoking btw, you are out of breath big time.

[@johnnystock1849]

nice video, thanks a lot..nice T/A

[@MapleBoarder78]

Glad it helped!

[@MapleBoarder78]

man that sucks! That's weird that the bolt holes don't line up. You should call Tick and ask them about it.

[@TheRwerkheiser]

Call me dumb but can't figure out how to bleed the line to save my life. All I can tell is looks like you have to pull the tranny from the bell housing to gain access Please help. Video or something.

[@nbass7928]

yeah thanks. everybody share this on the forums too. ls1tech, fbodyhiteout...

[@stevem8128]

Thank you do helpful

[@MapleBoarder78]

I didn't bench bleed.