How to paint a guitar with Montana Gold spray paints

Tip a tea and support me: ko-fi.com/devi... Montana Gold rattle can paints are brilliant, they come in such a wide range of colours, but they aren't designed for use on a guitar. Here Daniel explains just how you can use them.
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[@jnorcic]

Hi Dan, great work on the channel. To be a bit of a devil's advocate (sorry for the pun) I persisted with Montana products for a while but always found they were a bit too problematic - especially if you're trying to achieve a high-end finish with spray cans as an amateur. My biggest grief with their products is that the splattering, failed nozzles, chalky hits, etc. are very common (and known) issues that require a lot of correction and revisit - I'm not in the camp of colour sanding base color coats for correction. I also found that coverage is very poor - because it's a very low solids mix product that's designed specifically for feathering techniques and multi-layer build-up artworks. Poor coverage creates many challenging issues for amateur painters and builders to correct - especially as the product is quick-drying. A quick-drying product that requires many coats to achieve consistent full coverage inevitably leads to trapped solvents and often complete refinshing, not to mention it throws overlapping stroke techniques out the window. The product also has a tendency to react and bond poorly (chemically) to some common "hardware store" primers, as well as other MTN primers. I tend to recommend first-time builders/finishers find a local custom spray shop with a canning machine, as they will mix higher solids base for you in whatever color code you like, and have wider fan tips as standard. Hope I haven't offended with my comment. PS. I've got a 2K aerosol clear that in my experience is better than SprayMax you should check out.

[@DevilAndSons]

Hey, absolutely no offence taken. Yeah, the coverage isn't is great and the spatter and chalkyness isn't great, but I did find sanding helped really well prior to the top coats. Great suggestion about getting the paint mixed. Where can I find the 2k you mention? It would be great to try it.

[@DevilAndSons]

Ps. Thanks for following and commenting, very kind. I have pinned your comment so hopefully it will help some other people.

[@jnorcic]

@@DevilAndSons Have a search for a product called Normfest 2K Klarlack. I'm yet to test, but someone told me that if you don't use your entire can of 2k that you can place the un-used can in the fridge and that it stops the hardener - meaning you don't need to throw the can away after 2 days.

[@DevilAndSons]

That's good. I'll look into it.

[@sonicalmods781]

I am just gonna back up this comment, a good client wanted a specific metallic from Montana, tbh I only use spray cans for touch ups here and there since I am fully equipped with great spray guns etc, the guitar has crackled 4 times so far on the last coat of clear which ofcourse destroyed the workpiece and had to start from scratch since the pearls on the base was pulled making a total mess... manufacturer says you can spray clear after 24 hours, in my experience 3 light layers takes atleast 5 days to fully cure...

[@markkicksass2448]

I am doing a crackle paint guitar with a green Montana gold base snd black crackle. You are right about the paint. It is very powdery! Thanks for the tips. I think I am spraying to far away from the body based on what you said. Another good video.

[@DevilAndSons]

It is definitely powdery and if you are too far away it is even more so, but too close and you may get thick patches that run. I think with the crackle on top it may not matter if the base colour is perfect or not. Also with the crackle it may be worth doing extra varnish coats, not all in one go as you want to do a normal amount and let it dry thoroughly then add more, it's what I do with anything textured. If you have photos please do tag me in the comments on social media - it sounds cool and I'd love to see it.

[@markkicksass2448]

@@DevilAndSons yeah I just did the crackle and it looked sick! But the base coat was a bit powdery in spots, I tried to sand it out before putting the crackle on it and thought I did a good job but after I put the crackle paint on I have a few blemish spots. Nothing too bad but bad enough I think I am going to try again. The rest of the guitar looks insanely awesome. I just need to perfect my spraying technique. I’ll get you pic when its done. Thanks for your help man!

[@DevilAndSons]

Exciting. I look forward to seeing it. Good luck with the second attempt.

[@ProfessorPerhaps]

@@markkicksass2448aye what shade of green did you use homie, was it the Montana gold acid green?

[@DeeTee79]

Thanks for the help. I plan on using montana as my primer, as I want a green base under the gold on top. So worst case if I over sand the gold then I will be ok with the green showing through. I chose montana because it certainly has a wide variety of colours and the right shade for my next project.

[@DevilAndSons]

That acrually sounds like it would be cool to sand through the gold and reveal a bit of green on purpose. Montana do have such a great colour range.

[@DevilAndSons]

...and good luck.

[@DeanMakes]

Hi Dan, I'm currently finishing a BC Rich Warlock and was looking at Montana golds as an option, thank you for all the info in this video. Dean

[@DevilAndSons]

Hey Dean, it's a pleasure, I hope ot works out well. I look forward to seeing the outcome on Instagram

[@patricelecanu6150]

i thank you for this vid very instructive !!!!! love your work !!

[@DevilAndSons]

Thank you for your comment, makes it all worth while. Cheers.

[@patricelecanu6150]

@@DevilAndSons i think you r gonna do this guitar Spectacular !! hello from France ! cannot wait for the second part !!

[@DevilAndSons]

Thank you so much. I miss France, I used to visit friends there every summer. I have actually finished this guitar, it's here kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5DXoYRsar-Uo7c

[@t1mmy13]

Thanks for the tip on wet sanding the paint, and nice to know it isn't me going crazy with how quick it fills up the sandpaper

[@DevilAndSons]

Yeah, it's so frustrating. Thanks for commenting. What colour are you painting your guitar?

[@t1mmy13]

@@DevilAndSons I am painting something completely different, a 3d printed statue! Made it white/red

[@DevilAndSons]

Cool. We'll glad this video was helpful for non-guitar things too.

[@robclowers9628]

Wicked Colors by Createx is my go to. Fully dries within 24 hours and looks great with a waterbased clear like Crystalac Brite Tone or a 2k clear. This of course will require a little competency with a spray gun

[@DevilAndSons]

Thanks for the recommendation. I'm thinking of starting up again with my spray gun so will have a look into them.

[@rafaelleitecamargo]

LOVE IT

[@DevilAndSons]

Cheers

[@DevilAndSons]

It's great stuff

[@k13m13]

Before you try montana cans read this. I did a guitar in montana gold shock whitecream, let it dry for some days, then used montana gloss varnish. Dried for 2 weeks, wet sanded, buffed. Everything looks good. Left the guitar laying down on my workbench for 1 day on a soft cotton blanket. The texture of the cloth pressed down into the paint. Guitar finished ruined in matter of hours😅 Maaaybeee the montana gold in combination with a different clearcoat would work. Like a proper nitro or maybe some 2k clear coat. (I have yet to try this) But the montana varnish is useless for guitars.

[@DevilAndSons]

This is definitely a problem that occurs if the paint is applied too thick, it's like the top can set but underneath is a bit softer. Good to point this out as a warning to people. I hope you were able to sort out your guitar.

[@k13m13]

@@DevilAndSons makes me wonder if the thickess is the problem or the varnish. I am experimenting with some scraps with montana gold and a different nitro clear coat on top of it. After all it is cheap grafitti paint at 5 euro a can vs guitar suppliers nitro paint at 20 euro per spraycan😅 Learning is fun I guess🤣

[@DevilAndSons]

Good idea to experiment. The only reason I like Montana gold is the massive range of colours, but some nitro suppliers can make up a colour for you so I guess that's irrelevant.

[@k13m13]

I wanted to come back here with a "update" I guess. I Painted a guitar with montana gold (Shock black). Finished with a nitrocellulose clear coat ment for car repairs. I let the clear coat cure for probably 3 week and I got a much better result than previously with the montana varnish. In fact, the headstock of that same guitar is montana gold (shock black) with montana varnish, and even after weeks of drying I can still press my fingerprint into the clear coat.. I dont think I'll be using the montana cans for guitars anymore. Next guitar will be finished with either nitorlack or dartford nitro cans. Hopefully this helps someone save alot of time and stress😅

[@DevilAndSons]

@k13m13 thanks for the update. I've recently started using nitorlack, in fact I have some videos coming with them soon. I am very impressed.

[@gdlblues1]

Hi,I put three coats sanded after 24 hours, than put three more coats on.After 24 hours I have noticed the paint looks uneven or blotchy it's not a uniform finish.I used Bulls Eye 123 primer on it.Have you ever had this problem.The colour is Light Blue.Thanks.

[@DevilAndSons]

Have you sanded this second set of coats yet? Normally I find that sanding can make ot all look even and consistent. If easier you could email me some photos so I can try and offer a solution. [e-mail]

[@gdlblues1]

@@DevilAndSons Thanks for getting back to me.I just finished sanding with 800 wet.While trying to smooth the darker ruff spots I notice I'm starting to sand through.I really don't care much for this paint.Very chalky paint.A lot does come off on the sand paper.And that was after two days. I'm going to strip again and go with a different brand of paint.Just not for me .Thanks again for your reply.

[@DevilAndSons]

@gdlblues1 fair enough. It's definitely not the best paint, but I think the best range of colours. I still use it a lot. I'd be interested to know which other brand you go with, maybe I could give that a go too. For traditional guitar colours I mainly use nitro these days.

[@gdlblues1]

@@DevilAndSons I'm going to go with Oxford nitro they also have the colour I wanted.What nitro do you use.

[@DevilAndSons]

@gdlblues1 I've recently started using Nitorlack, I'm very impressed with it.

[@Rev_John_Danger]

I have an older, blonde, poly finished Squier that I’d like to repaint using Montana Gold. Do I need to completely remove the existing finish or can I simply scuff the current poly and primer and paint or must I remove all of the original finish?

[@DevilAndSons]

You can definitely scuff the current finish all over. I'd use 600 grit. What colour are you going for?

[@Rev_John_Danger]

Great news! Avocado green metallic with a brown celluloid scratch plate. It’s a genuine Rosewood fretboard so I think it should be a great combination. Particularly with new shiny chrome hardware. I’m very fond of fender’s sage green metallic and the metallor avocado is very close.

[@DevilAndSons]

Nice. Coincidentally I just bought that very same metallic green to test for a client, I think he wants a richer forest green but looking forward to testing. Your combo sounds good.

[@Rev_John_Danger]

I’d love to see how it turns out! All the best! Keep the amazing tutorials coming.

[@DevilAndSons]

I'm sure I'll make a video. Glad it worked for you.

[@jamiedude1197]

What spray paint brands would you sayis the best for spraypainting guitars thanks aboout to embark on my first time spraypainting a guitar next month thanks

[@DevilAndSons]

Exciting..where are you based? That may effect what is available. I have been using Nitorlack paints recently and really like them, but they only do nitrocellulose in spray cans, and perhaps for a first time they aren't the best as nitro takes a long time to cure compared to acrylic. I like these montana paints, but they can also be tricky for a first time user. Lots of people in the states seem to use rustolem, which you can getbin the UK too. I used it for the first time last week and thought it seemed great. I prefer using spraymax 2k for my final clear coat, I think that is the best and is available in most countries I think, but not to be used over nitrocellulose.

[@jamiedude1197]

@DevilAndSons I'm based in the uk iv done some spray painting before i have painted xbox and playstation consoles/controllers will be doing a splatter paint job on a jackson js32 in a blue cyan with pink and yellow splatter efect but can seem to find cyan with rust-oleum ill keep looking hopefully if all goes to plan

[@DevilAndSons]

@jamiedude1197 honestly, I think these paints would be good for the splatter if you are doing it from a can. Otherwise I often use artist acrylics from a tube to paint on guitars with. The key would be a good priming layer and base coat, and I definitely recommend the spraymax tip coat. Have you seen my "how to paint a guitar" playlist?

[@jamiedude1197]

@DevilAndSons not see the playlist yet but give it a browse thanks again for the help and reply

[@DevilAndSons]

@jamiedude1197 anytime. Here's the playlist Painting a guitar, from priming to buffing: kzbin.info/aero/PLH6eWzz4skg5dLwjJ1KrvUzQFIpcmeHyc

[@jamiedude1197]

It it gold nc arcylic you're using in this video rather than a gold arcylic

[@DevilAndSons]

Montana gold is the name of the range, and it comes in loads of colours.

[@evilwasabi629]

I had pretty solid luck using Molotow premium on my guitar

[@DevilAndSons]

That's good to know. I actually used one of their colours on a small part recently, they have a good range. Thanks for sharing.

[@evilwasabi629]

@@DevilAndSons I’ve also used Molotow clear coats. They dry pretty smooth, but if you spray on a cold day they start to yellow almost immediately. Rookie mistake

[@DevilAndSons]

That's good to know, I wonder how durable they are. I made the same mistake when starting out, except it went cloudy.

[@evilwasabi629]

@@DevilAndSons the clear started to crack after about a month and a half, but I drilled the holes for the pickguard after spraying. The back of the body where there’s no holes has held up great for about 6 months now

[@DevilAndSons]

That's frustrating. I wonder if it hadn't adhered to the coat underneath enough then the drilling cause it to separate?

[@paulafresty]

I have a 66 Fender Mustang that someone destroyed years ago with a belt sander and a brushed on paint job. I have filled it all, sanded, primed, sanded, primed, primed, sanded, painted, sanded, painted, sanded, painted, painted, painted, painted and am now at the last coat of paint. I didn't use Montana (I used DupiColor Metal Flake Retro Red), But I have a couple questions... Are you saying DO NOT sand the last coat of paint before moving to clear? I'm going to have to spray one last coat if that is the case. And second... Can I achieve a deep finish with just buffing compound, polish and wax? Do I HAVE to put a clear on it? As always... cheers to another great vid.

[@DevilAndSons]

I would personally sand the last coat of paint, you need something to key to, but with this paint if you have painted a design or sunburst you can't really sand it without risking sanding the design off as the coats will likely be too thin. If your clearcut is essentially the same paint as the colour but transparent you could just buff without the topcoat. I.e if you are using nitro colour then maybe you don't need a nitro clear coat. I think there is a slight visual difference of having a clear top coat though. I've not used the DupliColor paint before, have you got a scrap you can test buffing on? You definitely wouldn't get a good effect just buffing Montana gold paints. Sounds like you've put a lot of work in on yours. Look forward to seeing it.

[@paulafresty]

@@DevilAndSons I do have quite a bit into it... seeing as I had to give it a go TWICE. I had this idea to apply a thin/wide/thin racing stripe like the "competition" versions of the guitar. I figured that if i didn't like it, i could easily remove it as it is just vinyl tape. While applying it, I needed to reposition slightly and lifted the clearcoat off of the paint. As you know... that means removing all the clear, getting to paint and applying at least one more coat of paint. I used gaffing tape to pull off the rest of the clear. Worked quickly and brilliantly. I am now finally back at the last coat of paint, which i have sanded to 2000. I was thinking i could just get some rubbing compound and buff it, then wax,wax, wax, wax, wax... With NO clearcoat. I am pretty sure the PAINT will survive the vinyl striping but the clear is just too fragile.

[@DevilAndSons]

You may as well give it a go. I do recommend spraymax 2k clear coat, it's pretty solid - for future projects.

[@billavonda1604]

I was wondering if you could clarify the constituents of your purple cleaning solution? It is part white vinegar, what is the other?

[@DevilAndSons]

Methylated spirits

[@DevilAndSons]

kzbin.infoPk1MjIravy4?feature=share

[@DevilAndSons]

I hope it works for you.

[@DevilAndSons]

I've never used it, I hear it works well. I was recommended this method by a French polisher and have used it ever since. I imagine there is a difference but maybe it's just availability at the time?

[@borgonianevolution]

Would you recomend the spray max 2k varnish for an all maple neck? Is it hard enough to be a fretboard finish? I just did the fret work on mine and its ready for a finish so it doesn't become a dust n dirt magnet. I have always used Krylon sanding primer on everything from wood to foamboard to metal. Then as lot of the time I will use flat Krylon paint put on multiple layers to get a thick top coat then block and wet sand down to 2k before final compounding or clear coating.

[@DevilAndSons]

I'll be honest I haven't used it on a fretboard yet, although I'm currently working on two necks that will both have it on the fretboard. I couldn't find anyone discussing online if they have used it on a fretboard and how it wears, but I am so impressed with it on bodies and necks that I am going to give it a go. Nit that helpful a response, sorry.

[@borgonianevolution]

@@DevilAndSons Nor I which is why I am poking you with my stick for an answer hehe. I have asked in other channels about guitar building and got nothing yet. Will be very interested to see what happens as I have never worked with a maple fretboard its all been rosewood so it was just a matter of cleaning and oiling.

[@DevilAndSons]

Exactly the same here, I don't know. I did ask someone ages ago who painted designs on to his fretboard how he finished it and I'm sure he just topcoated with the same as the body so I'm feeling positive about it.

[@angelotheunissen1177]

Wich primer would you recommand to use the montana spraypaint on?

[@DevilAndSons]

I always use the grey primer from hycote, although I am sure there are other good makes. I like how it dries flat and how easy it is to sand.

[@Grawrrr]

Montana were the go to for street art!!!! haha

[@DevilAndSons]

It really is street art material

[@deetee-uk]

Is Spraymax ok to use with a normal filtered respirator?

[@DevilAndSons]

I use a respirator with a filter for organic and non-organic aerosol chemicals. It's the ABEK filter with the colour code brown-grey-yellow-green. It protects against gases and vapours of organic and inorganic compounds as well as against sulphur dioxide, hydrogen chloride, ammonia and organic ammonia derivatives. I'm afraid I can't advise as I think Europe and the rest of the world may label their filters differently.

[@glegalee]

Hi Dan, I found your vids because I plan to spray my new guitar body with Montana Metallic Effect Spray. The paint is semi gloss, I need to know if I should be sanding the paint surface before I spray over it with the Spraymax 2k clear gloss? Thanks for the tutorial vids, they contain good info. Cheers G.

[@DevilAndSons]

Thanks for getting in touch, and for watching. A problem with the Montana paint is it's not made for guitars so it's a bit harder to get a great finish which is why I would suggest sanding, plus it helps the spraymax grip to it. However I imagine sanding the metallic effect spray may effect the finish it has. It may be worth doing a test first. I don't think the spraymax will effect it but sometimes the metallic type effects get their look from the surface and if something else is put on it may dull the effect a bit. As I haven't used it I couldn't be sure. Sorry not to be more helpful.

[@glegalee]

@@DevilAndSons thanks for the response, I certainly will do a test first. I emailed Montana directly and they responded with the recommendation that a 2k clear should be used on guitars, rather than their own brand spray varnish clear coat. I will see what happens when I sand the metallic effect paint on a test piece as per your suggestion. I'll probably use a cheaper clear coat on the test piece though to see how it looks under clear as I don't want to waste an entire can of 2k on a test piece. Cheers G.

[@DevilAndSons]

So cool that they responded. That makes sense regarding using a cheap clear coat. It maybe that actually if it looks bad when you sand it the clear coat may fix it. Do let me know how you get on.

[@glegalee]

@@DevilAndSons Will do, cheers G.

[@Whergy]

@@glegalee Hey! Any updates on how that turned out? I'm looking to do the same thing xD

[@rdisipio]

I'm trying to match a seafoam green and I have actually got a Montana Black spray can. In your opinion / experience, do they behave the same? After the purchase, I saw on the label that the Black paints are not recommended for guitars and other DIY stuff, but I wonder, what does "not recommended" actually mean in this case?

[@DevilAndSons]

I haven't actually used montana black before so I'm not sure of the difference, but I imagine it either goes on thicker and is softer, or it doesn't harden in the same way. That would result in easy scuffing and marking even with a clear coat on top.

[@rdisipio]

@@DevilAndSons so it looks like Montana Black paints are lacquers. I'm experimenting on a skateboard before doing it on the guitar. I'd say the colours are amazing and it's relatively easy to match Fiesta Red, Seafoam Green, etc... The downside is that apparently it's very hard to spray a clear coat consistently. It seems to react with the paint below and make it wet again. On the other hand, Montana Gold is a nitro-acrylic paint, which should be fine for painting guitars. The choice of colours seems to be wide, but different from the Montana Black selection.

[@DevilAndSons]

Tradditional lacquers will "melt" into the previous layers, I wonder if this does that? Thanks for the information.

[@rdisipio]

@@DevilAndSons so...I let the Montana Gold paint dry for a couple of days, then I sprayed a lot of thin coats of Rust-oleum ultra-cover 2x clear gloss. The secret was to spray only a mist at the beginning and let it dry. After about 2 weeks it doesn't smell anymore so I think it's almost cured. I have nothing to complain about. In fact, I think the choice of Montana Gold colours is amazing and poorly explored by guitar makers who I suspect are too much in love with vintage nitro paint. My two cents!

[@DevilAndSons]

I agree, the choice of colours is fantastic. It's definitely not quite as nice and easy to use as some others but worth it for the colours. So glad yours has worked out for you, and thanks for coming back to comment.

[@pedroguzmanulloa1176]

This is a poliurethane or acrilyc?

[@DevilAndSons]

It's acrylic.

[@Evandrosab]

Hello, does the colour fade after a while?

[@DevilAndSons]

I'll be honest with you - I don't know for certain. I believe it's very good but the longest I have had one is 4 years and it hasn't changed, maybe over a longer period it may but I doubt it.

[@robertscott3399]

Ive used the crackle its made in gearmany they say its a modified nitro lauquer i dout that it is brcsuse mineral sperits will remive it. Soniam betting its an enamal of some sort

[@DevilAndSons]

I wonder why they say that and what it really is. Is it any good though? I was thinking of using it myself.

[@robertscott3399]

@@DevilAndSons i did notblike poor instructions for one.i sprayed a body i put enough on to covrer it. Then hit it with the crackle. Lol i got vary tiny cracks. Bot what i wanted i was going for80s crackle man.fiund out you need ro basucly flood the guitar body with he base ciat the thiker the base ther bogger the ctacks. Well i weny back to my tried and true method i cant use it in humide weatjer orvcold wearther has tobe real nice put about 70 80 degres i use water based crackle medium from micheLs crats..

[@DevilAndSons]

Thanks for letting me know. I have a crackle medium acrylic I was thinking of trying, I may stick with that then and not try the spray.

[@robertscott3399]

@@DevilAndSons ive have video on my channel guitars ive painted theres a pur0le and red cravkke i did for bad boy guitars. Perry wanted big crackles well he gothem takexa gander let me know whst you thnk.

[@robertscott3399]

@@DevilAndSons i have know idea unless they are confused or somthing.btjey could have just screwd up.

[@robertscott3399]

there junk sorry i dont like them i used them a its wasnt good i buy mohawk crackle lauqer black / whit/ or tintable. but at almost 1000bucks a quart its pricey butr it wirks everytime man i use krylon colrs as a basde and scence thier clrear is actualyacrylic lacquer i go over the enamel but dusting coats all i need is to get the surface coated e let dry and hit it with the mohawk and ba..m

[@DevilAndSons]

That sounds good, I've not seen mohawk before - I wonder if the sell in the UK?

[@adrianjacobson1301]

Is Montana Black ok to use ?

[@DevilAndSons]

I actually don't know the difference but I am pretty sure there is more than just different colour schemes. For this reason I would recommend a test first, I haven't used the black series myself so don't know how it will react with the top coat.