How to paint and create stencils RAF roundels - Great Guide Plastic Models

[@Shreds87]

When i watched your guide for the Focke-Wulf i thought: "Is there even a next level?" And then i go to youtube and watched you painting the goddamn decals.... You are an artist.

[@BillHalliwell]

G'day David, Let me firstly say that I subscribed to your channel because I'm very impressed by the authentic look of your WW2 models especially. I'm ex-RAAF and now, a military historian who is into modelling. I can tell you that before and during WW2, in Britain, finished aircraft would come out of the factories in RAF livery that had, mostly, been sprayed on. Once those aircraft went to their operational bases there was no time to repair aircraft and then spray paint on them. If an aircraft was so badly shot up that the roundels (which are most important for identification) needed repainting then that was done by hand, much the same as you did, using pre-cut stencils. That is part of the reason why your RAF models are so impressive. Many models that have the so-called 'D-Day' black and white stripes, have 'razor' sharp borders between the black and white. I have many period photographs of these D-Day stripes being painted, outdoors, with 6 inch paint brushes. Not a lot of care was used in doing these stripes. There were too many aircraft to paint and little time to do the job. So, when I do D-Day stripes I deliberately make them a bit rough, as they were in reality. Also, at their bases, during the war, especially around the time of the Battle of Britain, nobody cared about the aircraft getting dirty; another mistake made by some modellers. New aircraft only looked 'new' for a very short time. The only washes aircraft got was when it rained, as it does in England quite a lot. This, of course, didn't wash off grease, oil and exhaust stains, so they stayed on the aircraft and built up over time. I like to research my model aircraft as they were in real RAAF squadrons and I try to find out which pilots flew certain aircraft the most. If they survived then that particular aircraft was considered to 'be theirs'. The RAF and RAAF didn't bother painting the pilot's names on aircraft, as some USAAF had towards the end of the war. A tradition that still goes on in the USAF today. Anyway, thank you again for all your tips on brushing as I don't use an airbrush at all; I'm no good with 'mechanical' things... Cheers, BH.

[@michaeltruhett4170]

You truly are a very gifted model builder my friend. You never cease to amaze me with your skills and talent. I’m lucky to build what comes in the box without having to put it in the outside trash bin. And no, that’s not a joke. But hey, even if it ends up going to the local landfill, which is highly likely, what the hell, I had fun for a little while. LOL!

[@cmm30]

you work at the very top of the art in model making. thanks for sharing.

[@bowiefan6652]

Amazing! Much neater than decals, and I have to say the paint job on that model is simply stunning. Thank you for sharing your expertise.

[@Paulvanacker1]

Thank you so much. I just bought th same cutter and tamiya sheet to do my white unit marking roundels on an Arado 68E in1/48. This was very handy to see. Thank you. Hello from Australia.

[@unclefester9857]

Been doing this for years, but it is nice to see another bro doing it, well done, nice spit too.

[@nigeljohnson8022]

Your models are absoloutly amazing and so inspirational. I model railways and have used loads of your techniques in my work, but I have dabbled in military modelling as well and cant wait to start my ME 109 by Hersegawa. Of course I will be applying your techniques. Thankyou for sharing them.

[@idaemonplasmo]

Thanks, good luck with bf-109

[@dennishenrich6685]

Thanks David. Was doing an older testors kit and having problems with the decals. Even used a decal restorer. Was having a little difficulty with painting the round decals. I'll give this a try

[@leemiller9539]

You sure do great jobs on all of your models. I wish I could too but since I have hurt my spine I don't have the feeling and or control of my fingers. But even so thank you very much for all of the things that I have learned from you.

[@jlpytlewski]

You make this look easy David, I would`ve cussed a blue streak and went back to the kit decals...lol. You are an Awesome modeler my friend!

[@christophermifsud9543]

Great work, I wouldn't worry that much about different shades since the components and assemblies on the real aircraft had often varied too. This was because they were made by separate teams and sometimes in different locations or factories altogether. Also parts such as flaps and ailerons, rudders etc were often replaced in theater due to combat damage sustained and wear, hence the varying camouflage pattern was only corrected when time permitted, lethal purpose being the main priority during wartime.

[@alexchubbymclynn6060]

Good and most helpful video! Thanks! I plan to replace all the tail decals on my F-4 (1:48) with airbrushed tail codes and your tutorial is most relevant! Great job! Thanks for sharing!

[@plasticscalern]

Excellent workmanship David !! This for sharing thanks.

[@ninocammarota5378]

WOW: it's just the only thing I can say... Thank you, David, to be a great inspiration source to me

[@idaemonplasmo]

+nino cammarota Thanks, you're welcome.

[@CaptainBax]

Cheers David for these tutorials, hope to see more. You're quickly becoming my favorite Modelling KZbinr by far.

[@Pascal_T]

Thanks David ! Your method is much affordable than bying a cutting machine, for ex. !

[@AltCtrlFreak]

A lot of work but the end result is superior to decals. Some brands actually use two decals for the RAF roundel, one blue, one red which is awful. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!

[@idaemonplasmo]

+AltCtrlFreak Thanks, I never seen model with two decals for roundel, that must be really awful.

[@ARIES5342]

21 Dislikes...decal manufacturers!! Adam

[@mazda2165]

22

[@ARIES5342]

How could you not like this vid? It displays great work and skill! Do you, Hacker19, manufacture decals? Adam

[@mazda2165]

No, no, I gave like, I only say that there are 22 dislikes. You did not understand me. I like him, he has got a talent for model making.

[@ARIES5342]

HAHAHA! No sweat. He is good. Adam

[@kevbee8325]

Decal manufacturers or jealous clumsy people... ;)

[@didierhoornaert1699]

love your work. Thank you, David!

[@lesthiele7645]

Hi David, you have produced a great video lesson, it does seem a lot of work, but I have to admit the result was well worth it. keep making these videos. Cheers, Les

[@idaemonplasmo]

+Les Thiele Thanks for your kind words.

[@sorin-robertneagu6722]

You are very skilled modeller. And soo pacient ! Anyway, this technique works well on large scale models. I don't find a Olfa cutter able to cut the necessary circles on 72nd. Cheers !

[@jefferycathcart8046]

You are by far the best I've ever seen Bro, keep up the great work. Jeff from Ohio, USA

[@FineKits]

Jeffery Cathcart he is really good, look at Paul budziks channel, he likes to super detail

[@rkresken]

I really like your creativity! Thanks for sharing it with us!

[@joselucca2728]

This is the way to go provided you have a steady hand.

[@mikealtes]

Nice tips, thanks for sharing. I like to use a sheet of acetate over the decals, to protect them and also to make better cuts of the mask, also i use a coat of "future" gloss after and between color coats, to avoid bleeding under the mask.

[@riff2072]

Nicely done! Both the paint work and the tutorial.

[@kougerat5388]

Good to see you use maskol over the tape seams to stop the paint bleed, I use the same method when masking up a 1/12 Countach bodyshell to do all the matt black work, lots of angles and tape overlaps everywhere " a bleeding nightmare" sorry I had to ! lol I am curious as to what you use to clean your maskol brushes ? Love your work it is superb nothing less ! not to mention the quality of your video too. One day I might get around to working out how to put a video on the Tube ! Thanks for the video sir it was excellent.

[@madcowrebel4216]

I'm right in the middle of a supermarine spitfire. Perfect timing!

[@idaemonplasmo]

Přidal jsem České a Anglické titulky. I Added English and Czech subtitles If you don't understand. :-D

[@JulianDG]

+PLASMO - plastic models Hi, I have a question for you: can you build a scale model with hand brush only method? I'm very curious to know your techniques and if is possible to have a good paint without an airbrush. A new challenge for you :D Thank you so much and congrats for your videos, you're amazing! ;)

[@jimwiddowson7980]

Great video, I will try out this technique on my next Tamiya Mossie build.

[@robbeard6929]

Nice job Dave, super.

[@Plydrms]

Outstanding! What kind of masking material did you use? It is the yellow squares with grids painted on them?..thanks

[@xxmonsterxx9363]

In which ratio did you mix Tamiya's paints to achieve blue color?

[@Deceter]

So satisfying to watch you do it. But I cannot get mine to line up!

[@michalpawliszcze9063]

hi plasmo what exactly color blue and what paint manufacturer did you choose in this film?

[@goodefitness1438]

Super jealous of your skills. Really nice models

[@ian4675]

You make it look so easy. Thank you for making this video.

[@risabc]

Skvělé ještě lépe vysvětlení než v knížce pana Vilingra

[@idaemonplasmo]

+risabc Dík. Přidal jsem tam titulky, tak se na to můžeš kouknout ještě jednou. :-D

[@rockhound3942]

thank you man a very clever tips thanks for sharing & uv all ur videos

[@jamesabell9494]

Really helpful, I want to make my own decals on a 3d print I made, the waterslides I find are too much hassle and often wont print. Im going to order the tamiya sheet, I have access to a lasrcutter, I wonder if I can use the lasercutter on the stencil sheet, will test!

[@bobahnert9213]

Outstanding tutorial video David! OK now I have to track down and buy that compas

[@chrissorlie6497]

Awesome David!

[@Graff-Art]

Nice, but why did the yellow outline on the starboard side come out uneven? I thought the masks were centered?

[@shamirbrouwer6211]

Just another stunning tutorial my friend!

[@davidheaton2719]

Thank you just saved a 1/32 Bristol M1C when the decals disintegrated 😊

[@andrewgillis3073]

To do block style lettering and numbers, I use 2 or 3 mm auto detailing tape. It's also handy for the black line that marks off the above and below waterline on ships. ^_*

[@stevesauve6866]

Really interesting video. Thanks for presenting it to us!

[@cbufton]

Great video David and the results are impressive! Another request for the types and numbers of the paints you use please :)

[@idaemonplasmo]

+cbufton Yes of course. Yellow it was mr. hobby 113, White it was Tamiya XF-2, Red it was Citadel Base: Mephison red + Citadel Base: Averland Sunset, Blue it was tamiya xf-8 + xf-2 + xf-25

[@cbufton]

+PLASMO - plastic models - Thanks David :)

[@taudesign7956]

Painted insignia have an advantage in not having the silvering around the decal but they're rarely thinner than a decal, often thicker.

[@mancavecreations4418]

Excellent video!! one question what was the colour callouts you used for the roundels paint?

[@paulinhuntzinger1212]

Could you make a video which shows your workshop please? Very nice job👍

[@malw2452]

Hi. Thanks for sharing. This was a really clear and informative video. Just what I needed to see before I attempt the markings on a spitfire. Wish me luck ;-)

[@idaemonplasmo]

+Malcolm White Thanks, I wish you good luck, as you wanted.

[@ΣτάθηςΓαυγιωτάκης]

Great video. Thanks for the help. The rulers you show, with the circles, how are they called?

[@Manaritzis88]

very good guide david

[@supersonicboom4990]

My main problem when I try this is that I can't manage to cut a perfect round edge! Any advise?

[@jerrym995]

wish you would put links to some of the equipment you use.

[@josealejandroalvaradobotei8584]

😲😲👍 excelente maestro saludos cordiales desde 🇨🇱

[@wakemanedwards3450]

David, I would certainly prefer to have my larger markings, stripes flags, insignia's painted on over decals any day!!! With roundels it feels like it might be easier to do that say perhaps what the US Air Force uses. Is there any aftermarket company that offer pre-cut mask for markings like these that you know of? Yours looked great!

[@idaemonplasmo]

+Wakeman Edwards Yes, pre-cut mask is also solution and they are great.

[@mmouseav8r402]

Was wondering what brand and color paints? It's hard to get a match that looks close

[@Kulty666]

Opět výborný videjko :) Díky Tak a teď už se můžu těšit na Spitfira od Edíka :)

[@idaemonplasmo]

+Tomas Petr Dík. To bude ještě chvíli trvat. Motor bude potřebovat hodně hadiček a vztlakové klapky ještě odpočívají v rámečku.

[@morgaj21]

Good work and well explained.

[@BennyCFD]

Great video as always. I was wondering where did you buy that circle cutting tool.

[@GaryArmstrongmacgh]

Outstanding...but 'm so clumsy at this sort of thing. Still, I'll try it on both my armour and aircraft.

[@arterocalvo2799]

Please could You make a video showing all Your models?

[@idaemonplasmo]

+Artero Calvo Almost all of my models are on this channel. But ok, I will think about it.

[@NyteStalker89]

You should totally make a showcase of all of your models

[@warbuzzard7167]

Well, now we know how professionals do it!

[@DieselxRobot]

Those roundels turned out great! Are you going to make any of the new kits Airfix just released?

[@30wombat]

Whaooo ! I love this video. I shall try. Absolutely spendid, thnak you

[@calebmateochasegarcia6299]

How long do you wait between spraying different colors?

[@bpezzano1]

Fantastic work! I have a quick question. I'm working on some luftwaffe aircraft from WWII. I'm trying to get the mottled or stippled effect on the fuselage. Any suggestions?

[@volshebnikartmusic9782]

Sorry PLASMO, I will replay. Mottled camo usually done with airbrush freehand. However if you do not feel confidence, you can use masks from blutack ;)

[@bman9938]

Amazing work

[@michaposlada3840]

Great video, but i have one question: why are there US and Polish markings on the decal sheet when it is a british plane?

[@Jpriest13]

Spitfires were used by many fighter groups flying as part of the RAF(Polish AF Squadrons, and American Eagle squadron) and U.S. later in Mediterranean theater. In fact the #1 and #3 top scoring squadrons during the Battle of Britain were Polish. And they were not activated until halfway through the battle.

[@Miguel-re2hv]

Excellent! have you made one with German plane?

[@chilson88]

beautiful work

[@stoobieman]

Thanks for your fantastic video and extraordinary model making, you are an inspiration and wonderful teacher. A quick question - what paints do you use for the roundels?

[@idaemonplasmo]

I used Tamiya acrylic but precise shades I do not know. White xf-2, yellow XF-3, red XF-7 + brown XF-64 and blue XF-8 + XF-50.

[@stoobieman]

So you match by eye? Why acrylics, not enamels?

[@tomasnovak5519]

Dobrý den, tohle video je velmi inspirativní. Díval jsem se na to kruhové řezátko Olfa CMP-1 a prodejci na webu uvádějí, že minimální průměr řezu je 1 cm. Na videu, kolem času 2:25, jste vyřezal vnitřní průměry, které vypadají menší než 1cm. Jak malý průměr se dá tedy s tímto řezátkem udělat? Díky Tomáš

[@idaemonplasmo]

+Tomáš Novák Jo, to mě taky štvalo. Trochu jsem to upravil. Čepel jsem vyndal a přilepil sekundovým lepidlem na vnější stranu plastu, který před tím držel tu čepel. Po této jednoduché úpravě jde řezat i 4 mm kolečka.

[@ZenoFromTheElea]

That's impressive job.

[@jancizmar1460]

Šikula, ďalší pekný tutoriálik :-) Inak, čo sa týka strhnutia farby pri odliepaní pásky, niekedy nepomôže ani poriadne odmastenie... Lepidlo na niektorých páskach (dokonca aj niektoré Tamiye) dokáže zreagovať s farbou (Gunze H, Revell Aqua) a nadvihne ju od povrchu... Ale stačí si ju pred nalepením na model raz, dva razy prilepiť na pokožku, a problém vyriešený :-) Ph pokožky zneutralizuje niektorú zložku lepidla a páska už nikdy farbu nestrhne... Ale to určite poznáš, je to stará finta :-)

[@idaemonplasmo]

+Ján Čižmár Dík za tip. Vím, že páska hůře drží při dotyky s kůži, ale že bych rovnou toho využíval, to mě nenapadlo. Při větších maskách to může být dobrá depilace :-D

[@Manaritzis88]

very realistic result

[@scottrice3549]

thanks for the videos they r great

[@atee103]

cool, was this for 1/48?

[@backdraft57]

Wow, incredible

[@SheepWaveMeByeBye]

I am always surprised at how much more real painted roundels look. Never really understood why.

[@platty3379]

You can use a criecut machine to achieve stencils for the letters

[@srgears7418]

Great tutorial! as usual!

[@DarthVapor151]

your english killed me. great tutor btw. you should do more tanks!

[@idaemonplasmo]

+LoveH2ODelirious Actually I am finished with si-2 1/72 and today I started building t-90 1/72.

[@DarthVapor151]

+PLASMO - plastic models and what about 1/35?? VIDS!!! :)

[@idaemonplasmo]

+LoveH2ODelirious Ok ok. Today I ordered PzKpfw 38(t) and sd.kfz. 222 leichter in 1/35. I build only two models in 1/35 so far, so it will be interesting. Panzer VI Tiger or other heavy tanks are so huge, that I will start with something smaller.

[@skinbackyourpeel]

wombatwarriorman. I bet your 'Polish' sucks.

[@jamesfender6717]

Please could you tell me what make of paints you used in this video for the raf blue and red and what colour they are called

[@idaemonplasmo]

+james fender Used colors Yellow it was mr. hobby 113, White it was Tamiya XF-2, Red it was Citadel Base: Mephison red + Citadel Base: Averland Sunset, Blue it was tamiya xf-8 + xf-2 + xf-25

[@JumonkeyOnline]

They look great mate cheers for sharing :)

[@idaemonplasmo]

+Jumonkey Online Thanks, you're welcome.

[@rsaydel]

very cool! Thank you for the video :) I enjoyed it very much

[@aivars2365]

great video guy

[@Ducesweden]

David, i have a challenge for you. Can you make a swedish roundel using this technique and still make it look better than decals?

[@idaemonplasmo]

+Ducesweden Yes no problem. I plan to make all basic types and swedish roundel look great. Just print emblem on paper and cut it out.

[@Ducesweden]

I am concerned over the black edge around the crowns, but i'd like to do it sometime for making a demolished plane, or the DC-3 which where under water for 50 years and now is at the swedish airforce museum.

[@dennishenrich6685]

Thanks. Wish I could have seen this vid. before I started to do it myself and ending up frustrated

[@Kabul81]

Great info,keep it coming!👍🏻 Jman👀

[@TheJossds1]

looks great!!

[@matthiasmueller4747]

How have you done the guns in the wings?

[@kackbratze9705]

This is f*cking great! Thanks for sharing!

[@idaemonplasmo]

+kack bratze f*cking thanks :-D

[@kackbratze9705]

PLASMO - plastic models You're f*cking welcome. :-)

[@alanharvey5217]

Beautiful ☺

[@Manaritzis88]

i will try this technic to make RAAF roundels on my p-40n

[@tommylakasi3022]

How do you precisely tell where the decal roundels exactly go? How does anyone? How do you know when its perfect or not

[@Davros23redux]

Compare it to photographs of the real aircraft.

[@oguzcangokce7636]

What' s name of the model kit that used in video, I mean which company is this? :))) Because this kit looks highly detailed, especially the engine section ;)

[@idaemonplasmo]

+Oguz Can Gokce This kit is made by Eduard. Engine is not included in the kit. I used special extension.

[@oguzcangokce7636]

+PLASMO - plastic models Orright , thanks a lot :)

[@arterocalvo2799]

very nice as always