How to Paint Your Battletech Miniatures: A Step-by-Step Guide

I've been recently asked for a very basic step by step video to help a beginner painter get mechs ready for the tabletop. Here it is!
CamoSpecs: camospecs.com/
Cheap Makeup Brushes for drybrushing: www.amazon.com/BYNDYLIEN-Cham...
If you have any painting questions, feel free to ask in the comments below.
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Thank you!
#Battletech #Painting #Catalystgamelabs #Tabletop #Tutorial #StepByStep

[@MechanicalFrog]

If you have any painting tips for beginners, feel free to drop them into the comments. I love seeing all the helpful advice.

[@TheSixthWorld]

I've painted probably over 100 mechs at this point and I can say this vid was definitely useful. Covers the basics that a lot of bigger channels neglect.

[@MechanicalFrog]

Thanks! I hope it can be useful.

[@andrewamann2821]

Alternative option for brush-priming minis: acrylic gesso. Lay it down relatively thick, brushing it on, then using a stabbing motion to spread it, let it dry, and it will basically pull itself tight to the details, whilst providing a nice, toothy surface to work your paints on. Touch up any pinholes in the coverage, and you're on your way. It takes a couple of hours to be close to ready to start working, and I would recommend 24 hours to cure, if you're not pressed for time, but it's a really satisfying surface to work on. I will also *highly* recommend that you varnish your finished work with a coat or two of gloss, and then a pass with your preferred finish, as gesso isn't the most durable primer in the world for handling, abrasion, and drops, but it takes some really active screwing up to get it to obscure details. You can also mix it with other acrylic inks and paints to color it.

[@MechanicalFrog]

Interesting. I'll have to look into that.

[@andrewamann2821]

@@MechanicalFrog Liquitex makes a black gesso that is my go-to, and it's usually available for not an excessive amount of money at your big-box arts and crafts stores. If you're opting to go with a white gesso, do yourself a favor and cut it with a bit of titanium white acrylic ink. This will improve the consistency of the coverage by increasing the pigment density. You can also do this with clear gesso and a good acrylic ink (the pigment density is key here, and inks are inherently more highly pigmented than paints, as a rule...), though you may need to do some experiments with your pigments to achieve a decent opacity.

[@darwinsfolly2117]

Yes! Liquitex gesso is my go-to model primer as well. I like brush-on primer because I can begin to get a feel for the nooks and crannies of a model and gesso tightens itself up as it drys in case you accidently put too much on your model

[@HeadHunterSix]

FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium works nicely as well (it was recommended for Reaper Bones minis). It's more or less clear, so it's kind of like priming it grey. But it has an unbelievable tooth and durability.

[@HeadHunterSix]

Some tips I'd like to add: Using a hair dryer on low heat setting between coats helps to dry and cure the paint and save time waiting to do the next step (do give washes and such a little time to dry first, so that you're not blowing it around on the model. With Contrast paints, you don't want to do a wash - applied properly, Contrast paint is intended to eliminate that step, by functioning in part as its own wash. Test your drybrush on your thumbnail before going at the model. If it leaves more than a faint trace on your nail, scrub away more of the paint from your brush onto your paper towel. Get the general concepts behind the color wheel. It's why orange cockpits look good on blue 'Mechs, or green cockpits on red 'Mechs. Use that to influence your "spot" color that you use to accent other details.

[@MechanicalFrog]

Good advice! Thanks for sharing it.

[@edwardclay7551]

If you want a metallic look base coating with Silver then a Contrast like ink is amazing. Ive made some amazing Warrior House Hiritsu mechs with that simple trick.

[@MechanicalFrog]

True!

[@GamingWithADHD]

Well done Frog! Fantastic tips and great entry point for beginners.

[@MechanicalFrog]

Thanks so much!

[@robrib2682]

if you want a cheap wet pallet, get a shallow old piece of tupperware (and an uncracked clear lid helps, but you can use tinfoil) cut some paper towels to fit to the bottom of it and do the same with some wax paper commonly used for things like cookies (with some extra surface so the paint dosn't all run off into the wet lower level) and congrats you now have a wet pallet. I just recommend not using glassware or a metal tray because glass can shatter if dropped and aside from rust if it isn't properly sealed, the metal tray can dent from the back and that can cause dry areas on the pallet. Edit: rereading my comment I just realized I never said this but you're going to have to add water to the paper towels so that this will work as a wet pallet. I only say this because I know how low the bar is for intelligent life on the internet (although I'm not one to speak on relative intelligence here because the first time I try to paint a minifigure I didn't even try and prime the model until I was told what priming is)

[@MechanicalFrog]

Great advice.

[@madcat3525]

Great video! Lots of great tips. Looking forward to more videos.

[@MechanicalFrog]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@DadimusRex]

Thank you for this video. Simple steps but a good end result. I appreciate the tips.

[@MechanicalFrog]

Thanks for watching. :D

[@whitefoxplays]

Great tutorial!!! Will definitely be using it to teach the kiddos as well!

[@MechanicalFrog]

Glad it was helpful!

[@j.mccann2166]

Used this vid before painting my first minis. Im told they turned out very well for a first timer, so thank you.

[@MechanicalFrog]

Awesome to hear!

[@odinulveson9101]

Have had a hiatus from painting Nolzurs dnd minis. Now Im back into Battletech and gotten a few mechs rdy to paint. A few tips Ive learned. ❗️1: If you gonna paint any CLEAR plastic. Say ice, spells, flames, acid or laser lenses.Use gloss varnish first to get shiny fresh look, let dry, thin out preferred paint to use, appropriate wash for say cracks in ice, drybrushing, then close in all that with gloss varnish again. If snow on ice spikes use gloss only on ice, then matte varnish over the dryer snow parts. ❗️2: When you are absolutely done with painting a mini use VARNISH! Matte for dry, plain, metallic surfaces and gloss for slimy, wet, shinyfreshy surfaces. This locks in and protects your mini from general use like things causing scratches, stains etc. Better safe than sorry. A mech sploshed accidently by beer thanks to your friend at the table wouldnt be such a threat to your badass mini 😆And cleanfix your mech approperly, carefully to avoid needing to do hooours of rework..

[@MechanicalFrog]

Good ideas.

[@Timuroslav]

Easy to understand, and great video! I like how you don’t drown out your voice with background music. As for advice, People have tried and compared quality over quantity with materials and tools and they have found that people who do the activity more , even with cheaper tools and paints, end up becoming better artists. So get out there and paint!

[@MechanicalFrog]

Being an older frog, I prefer background music to be as un-intrusive as possible.

[@mitchellglover7718]

Thank you for this video! Just starting out painting, I'm super shaky. Good to know about base coats, I'm going to save this video to watch again later!

[@MechanicalFrog]

Happy to help out. If you have a specific question, feel free to ask.

[@gladius6gaming]

Great Guide thanks for information and great video!

[@MechanicalFrog]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@oilysidedown9777]

Great video, thanks for the break down.

[@MechanicalFrog]

Thank you. I hope it can be helpful for those starting out.

[@kvnstnly]

Fantastic video. Well done and concise.

[@MechanicalFrog]

Thank you. I hope it can be useful for people getting into Battletech.

[@lostonwallace1396]

You really did a very nice and comprehensive video. Sound advice at every turn, MechFrog! Nicely done!

[@MechanicalFrog]

Glad you enjoyed it and thank you for all the great BT art over the years!

[@lostonwallace1396]

You're most welcome, amigo! I really enjoyed doing the recent Atlas commission. Might have to do more of those in the future!@@MechanicalFrog

[@inky9132]

Very good video! The shown techniques are well explaind, easy to learn, very efficient and lead to good results, especially if you consider effort against outcome. Also some civil 40k bashing is never wrong in a battletech related video ;)

[@MechanicalFrog]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@Rogue_Kaze]

Thank you! It's very helpful

[@MechanicalFrog]

Glad it was helpful! Good luck!

[@mechwarriorshark]

Thanks man, this was just what I needed. Hopefully my first Star comes out respectable.

[@MechanicalFrog]

Best of luck! Happy painting!

[@Timeras]

Great video, great advices for new painters.

[@MechanicalFrog]

Glad you think so!

[@TheErikWulf]

Thanks. This vid helped a lot. I had a good prime and basecoat done on my Wraith, and I used Basilicanum Grey contrast on it and it didn't turn out at all, so I beat myself up a bit over it. But watching this has helped me get over a few hurdles. Thanks again.

[@MechanicalFrog]

Glad it could be helpful. Good luck with your future projects!

[@TheErikWulf]

@@MechanicalFrog thanks! 🤘

[@greydeathangel]

thank you for the great tips, For me my choice surface to use for drybrushing is an old t-shirt, maybe one that has holes in it. Cut it if you need it to be smaller, and if yah want you can wash it. I will be looking into some of the commented items for priming. It's been a while for me to get some stuff painted. I hear contrast and speedpaint dont like flat surfaces too much, is their a solid way to use them on those pesky flat parts. My real issue that I've been running into is the whole deciding on which minis go to which faction in the end (not many factions, but a couple). I'm planning on doing my merc unit, and their OpFor units (Militia/Pirates, Combine Ronin, Wolf, Bears, Jags, Lyrans) And I got pretty much every mech from the first KS, and will be getting most of them from the second. It is more of a difficulty in decision due to all the minis, and that CGL only sells mechs in packs.

[@MechanicalFrog]

Luckily the flat parts on a battlemech are pretty small so contrast/speed paint still does well on them.

[@CanaanHill]

this is great. thank you MechFrog

[@MechanicalFrog]

You bet! I hope it's useful.

[@madcat789]

Aw yeah, thank you!

[@MechanicalFrog]

Hope it helps out someone out there.

[@lebe5894]

For black i use vallejo black grey it looks great a very dark charcoal black

[@MechanicalFrog]

Good tip!

[@derekburge5294]

As you said near the end, test on junk. Sprues are GREAT for testing out new techniques, particularly wet blending (which is more bloody difficult than it looks!).

[@MechanicalFrog]

Great tip!

[@user-nf9pc3mz3k]

I love your painting method makes the most sense to me. I have a question on paint. This is my first time painting minitures, though my model making was on 1200 to 537 star Trek models and kit bashes so techniques are much the same, though I do more airbrushing than brushwork. For primer I got the only thing I could get in town from the gaming store Pro Acryl Black. It says not to thin it but it near clogged my airbrush, and the only way to spray was at high (rattle can) pressure. What ratio of thinner should I use to kept the speckle spray, and not too thin. Next is I was trying to use some of my previous paints from my model work which is golden brand, but they seem to not want to be thin enough to not still be gunky, especially on the myminifactory files there is hardly any depth around most of the cockpits. I did pick up a couple of small bottles of vallejo model color a that I needed and I may try to find some others. Will make a post on your base paint there.

[@MechanicalFrog]

I don't have a precise ratio of thinner to primer but through trial and error, you will find what works for your airbrush. If I had to ballpark it, maybe 1 to 6 or 7.

[@blackbot7113]

Thank you for the great explanation. I have one question: I was taught years ago by a paint at my FLGS that she always paints her minis from the inside out, so start on the innermost parts and works outside. So for the upper body of a night: skin, shirt, armor, cape then add a wash. The technique suggested here makes me wonder if how you avoid painting over the washed base color when painting things like the cockpit or the joints - any suggestions for that?

[@MechanicalFrog]

That strategy might be more important for more detailed and upscaled figures than for mechs. Joints could be done first, in case you do make a mistake and hit a panel, so there's at least some value to it. As far as cockpit stuff goes, since I always basecoat with a strong light color, what went down first isn't really an issue.

[@ardanblade641]

Shout out to Army Painter! I love their washes, and recommend them to anyone wanting to paint minis!

[@MechanicalFrog]

Their washes are great.

[@JulianVR4]

I have about 10 boxes of CGL minis that I need to crack open and get to work on! I've only painted DnD minis and I bought these CGL mechs because they're my favorites, so I'm apprehensive to ruin all 30 of my precious WVR-6M's 😅🤣

[@JulianVR4]

Thanks for the tips! This is gonna nudge me even closer to getting some paint on these. You got any tips for removing paint after it dries? Like if you want to start over?

[@MechanicalFrog]

There are a few cleaning products like simple green that will loosen the paint. If the coats are thin enough, you could risk going over the top.

[@MechanicalFrog]

You can do it!

[@reggietheroman]

love your video. i have question though, if i use contrast paint or speed paints, do i still need to use a wash?

[@MechanicalFrog]

You don't have to, but it is still an option.

[@revolvergimp4397]

Great Video! Im going to subscribe to your channel and paint some mechs. Additionally, the mat or board you used in the end of your video along with the terrain where did you get it?

[@MechanicalFrog]

Thank you for giving the vid a go and for subscribing. The terrain is from www.gf9games.com/hextech/ .

[@voodooloukerensky3884]

My mistakes turn out to be my favorites. I have a Shadow Cat that started with purple legs and salmon upper body. Did a black wash that I then dry brushed Canoptek alloy over it. You can still make out the salmon and purple specially on the feet and back of the mech. I went back and added some black to vents on legs and body as well as giving the right gun a black ink and Canoptek alloy that I cant seem to recreate so that its consistent across mechs for the weapons, but none of the other weapons on the Shadow Cat got that treatment. Ive tried to recreate the alloy dry brushing to get the same effect but I think that I just lucked out that the purple and salmon dont stand out like it seems red does under the dry brushing*shrug* Its all dog and pony show stuff for after the combat. I have yet to have the courage to unbase them but I noticed that you dont always unbase them either so the soda bottle lid hotglued or double sided taped to the base is a thing I'll have to try.

[@MechanicalFrog]

Soda bottle tops with a bit of bluetack work great. That paintjob sounds like a trip. Do you have a photo of it?

[@vincemincevince]

great video

[@MechanicalFrog]

Glad you enjoyed it! Happy gaming!

[@DavesMiniMenagerie]

Nice Vid! Are they 'hard' plastic models which work with plastic cement or are they 'soft' plastic that needs super glue?

[@MechanicalFrog]

The older original Ral Partha models, and current IronwindMetals models are pewter, which requires super glue. The Catalyst Game Lab models are a hard plastic which might work with plastic cement though I haven't tried it. I just use super glue.

[@diegoghesini5622]

Great video! I have some “old” GW cans of prime paint, are hey any good on catalysts minis, or it will melt them?

[@MechanicalFrog]

It would work fine. the CGL minis are very durable plastic. Way tougher than GW models.

[@diegoghesini5622]

@@MechanicalFrog thanks mate, you are a star!

[@jasoncooper6047]

Starting to get back in to the game after decades of being away. What would you suggest to clean off bad paint jobs from the old plastics thay doesnt melt or damage the plastic itself? Also, those "Enhanced Imaging" bases are crazy awesome, do you print them yourself?

[@MechanicalFrog]

I designed and 3D print the hex bases. The files are available for free if you have a 3D printer. As far as stripping mechs go, I've heard that Simple Green will loosen up paint if left in for a while to soak. Haven't tried it myself, though.

[@jasoncooper6047]

@MechanicalFrog I just found where you posted the link to them. Just have a few from early teens I tried to paint with crappy paint. Look like trash. Granted the plastic minis from back then were also pretty meh.

[@MechanicalFrog]

Yeah model paint makes a big difference. Multiple thin coats and all that. @@jasoncooper6047

[@Anjin-qg3ie]

I want to make a black lance for the DC. How would I paint black realistically? One more question, why don't any of the battletech painters use a matte coat? These things travel, and go back in forth in boxes, a clear matte coat seems like a huge must. I'm coming from a background of painting much larger models, like perfect grade Gundam, and the bandai Macross kits.

[@MechanicalFrog]

1. Avoid going pitch black. It tends to look off on models. Instead, use a very dark grey and highlight. 2. I've matte coated models before but don't really travel with them. If I was moving them around a lot more, I'd probably do the matte coat.

[@Anjin-qg3ie]

@@MechanicalFrog so should I use my pitch black primer, and than paint over with an almost black gray? Then highlight in light gray?

[@MechanicalFrog]

Yes.

[@mark81explorer]

Have you used Zenithal highlight primer ever? Was wondering if it makes much of a difference. I'm more into adding as much detail as possible than speed paint, other than base coat Cool stuff btw

[@MechanicalFrog]

Yes I have. It works well on battlemechs.

[@augustinelim1985]

How would I incorporate Army Painter Speed Paint? Most people say I would skip the washing the model as the Speed Paint also shades the model, and jump to drybrushing and details once the Speed Paint is fully cured.

[@MechanicalFrog]

So long as you've got your base coat on it, go wild with the speed paint.

[@augustinelim1985]

@@MechanicalFrog Saw someone prime black and dry brush white before applying Army Painter Speedpaint and that looked pretty decent too.

[@MechanicalFrog]

@@augustinelim1985 Yeah that will give you some pretty intense light to dark transitioning.

[@AlexDenton0451]

That Catapult at 9:58 is STUNNING, what did you do to get that result?

[@MechanicalFrog]

Dark blue basecoat, then airbrushed a very light blue on the legs, fading into the base.

[@AlexDenton0451]

@@MechanicalFrog that's pretty simple! I'll have to give it a try here.

[@MechanicalFrog]

@@AlexDenton0451 You can!

[@Vulg4r]

Can you share where you got those cool bases with teh hexagon patterns on them?

[@MechanicalFrog]

I designed and 3D printed them. The STL files for a basic set are here. www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-hex-tech-bases-for-battletech-miniatures-225145

[@Vulg4r]

@@MechanicalFrog Love them, thanks!

[@MechanicalFrog]

@@Vulg4r Happy printing!

[@gufbrindleback]

are the model files for your hex-on-hex bases available online?

[@MechanicalFrog]

Yep. www.myminifactory.com/users/mechanicalfrog

[@gufbrindleback]

@@MechanicalFrog Thank you, cheers!

[@MrSickNoodle]

What is a wash? Is it a different kind of paint? I didn't understand that part

[@MechanicalFrog]

A wash is like a thin ink that runs into the nooks and crannies to create shadows. Army Painter has a rundown here: www.thearmypainter.com/basic-painting/dip/how-to-apply-quickshade-wash/

[@MrSickNoodle]

@@MechanicalFrog awesome thanks so much for answering!

[@Shark0115]

What paints do you use for the metallic details?

[@MechanicalFrog]

I have shifted over to Pro-Acryl metallics but am cleaning out the last of my citadel pots.

[@Shark0115]

Currently have citadel contrast. Will checkout Pro-Acryl

[@RebornGuitarLearner]

What's the difference between playing battletech and 40k?

[@MechanicalFrog]

Battletech is smaller scale, usually a slower pace, much more like a game of chess than a grand sweeping battle like you get with 40k where there can be dozens if not hundreds of units on the table.

[@MunitionsDudTester]

Hardest part of painting mechs: spending hours on camospec and still not being able to decide xD

[@MechanicalFrog]

Too many choices... life is full of challenges.

[@anselmoffrisia2930]

"... hopping for Battletech..." the frog says. Nice.

[@MechanicalFrog]

I love how you always notice the little things...

[@ero9841]

Makeup brushes are cheap a soft brushes

[@MechanicalFrog]

Very true.

[@Marc_Araujo]

I really suck at this part...I'd rather pay to have a miniature well-painted than do it myself and really hate the final product.

[@MechanicalFrog]

That's fair.