How to photograph your art in natural light

My name is Xanthe Wyse.
This video has edited captions in English (to correct where autocorrect got it wrong with my kiwi accent).
I was wanting to photograph my latest artwork, 'Not a Typical Office Job' for fine art prints, so I recorded some of doing it. My bridge camera (Panasonic Lumix with built-in lens, used for filming some of this video) isn't sharp enough (is fine for images book cover size or less).
I intend to write a blog post with some more detail, as this video is a quick overview.
Taking over 50 photos takes just a few minutes. One of the most important parts is the right lighting. I have tested indoor and outdoor lighting, with and without a tripod etc. I find it quickest and easiest to do it this way and my fine art prints have turned out great.
My paintings are up to 50cm (approx 20 inches) on the longest edge and they photographed and printed fine. Larger paintings are probably best photographed professionally, as they might need multiple images in more controlled lighting conditions stitched together.
Best natural lighting is in the morning before the heat of the day and before harsh shadows. Harsh shadows mean there are likely to be overexposed (lose details in highlights from too much glare) plus also emphasise imperfections in texture etc.
Late afternoon or evening light is too warm (if using this lighting, one would need to adjust the white balance).
Today, it was a foggy morning, and I waited until the fog was lifted off the ground but the sun was still filtered through the clouds (which is a similar effect to softboxes that studio photographers use).
So my preference is morning light and/or light cloud.
Best results with a mirrorless or DSLR camera. My camera for my sharpest photography including for my art prints is a Canon EOS R100 which I am using with a RF-S 55-210mm lens at around 55mm. If I were to use the kit lens, I would use at 45mm (not near 18mm).
It's better to be further away and zoom in a bit, to avoid distortion (edges bowing).
Art should be photographed before it is varnished and/or goes behind glass (to avoid extra reflections).
I set my camera to continuous shooting, which means it takes around 4 photos for every second I hold the shutter button. (If using a tripod, have image upright and use the 2- second delay setting).
I have it set at the largest JPEG file. I also set to RAW for my art, even though I don't have software to edit RAW files, nor do I need to.
I choose an image that is sharp and straight.
I use Photoshop Elements® to optimise the image, with very subtle minimal adjustments. Adobe® Photoshop Elements® (like a stripped-down version of Photoshop) can only do greyscale or RBG which is fine for my purposes.
My printer wants an RGB file, not CMYK (CMYK is used for commercial printing). The printer I use uses more colours than CMYK.
The details of the menus and adjustments didn't show in this recording but can see from the right hand side some of the layers I made with slight tweaks.
Adobe® Lightroom® is another popular photo editing program for photographers. I don't have that so make do with what I have.
Of course, any of the steps of professional photography and editing can be done by a professional but they of course will incur extra expenses.
I use a professional printer for the actual printing, as I won't get the results I want on a home printer.
I will write some more detail in a blog post.