How to Properly Adjust and Use a Vibroplex Bug

The Vibroplex "Bug," also known as a "semi-automatic" key or "speed key," has gained a poor reputation amongst some radio amateurs because many who try to use the device have not learned how to properly adjust and manipulate it. When properly adjusted and manipulated, a bug is capable of producing good, clean, well balanced Morse. This video provides a brief set of instructions on how to properly adjust and use a bug.
If you are new to using a Vibroplex bug or an equivalent device, it is strongly recommended that you follow the adjustment steps and practice recommendations outlined in this video. This will aid you as you develop the proper technique needed to be a first-class radiotelegraph or Morse operator.
Print instructions on how to properly adjust a Vibroplex bug are also available in the "Michigan Net Public Service Communications Handbook," available at no charge as a pdf file via the QMN Net web page at: www.michigannet.org
Thank you for watching and 73!
Jim, WB8SIW
www.morsetelegraphclub.org
www.michigannet.org

[@doxasnob8137]

Thank you so much! I use a paddle and a keyer and have a bug and a desire to use it. This is the clearest, best explanation of how to do it and why. You have saved me from bug sending hell. I now can practice, practice, and practice with confidence that my bug is adjusted correctly.

[@jameswades3621]

Thank you! I am glad the video has proven helpful. Good luck on your journey to "bug proficiency." 73!

[@baikushex0et682]

From beginning The 1st telegraph exam was 20 wpm cg and 25 wpm plain language and 1 year experience until 2015 But I Downloaded the rules from 1929 federal radio commission and at that time they offered not only the 1st class but a 1st class extra It required 18 months of experience and exam was 30 wpm cg International and 25 wpm plain language in American morse ! That would a goal to shoot for and proud to reach it ! I was born 60 years too late

[@sw55345]

This is the best tutorial I have ever seen on this topic. Well done.

[@johnbspringer]

Thanks. I got a 1950's Vibroplex bug a few minutes ago and the first thing I did was watch your video. 73

[@microreniassance2929]

Same here.

[@WiltshireMan]

Jim, A good demo on how to set up a bug.I couldn't get my head round the American morse.The quick brown fox reads"The fuiiek beieewn reel"When read as international code! Well don. Sandy

[@w4otn]

Thanks for the video. I've never owned or used a bug and because of that I've always been a little unsure of how they worked. This video not only shed some light into how to use a bug but also setting it up. Great stuff!

[@normbal]

Thanks. Got a 100th anniversary bug (jeweled), used, from Vibroplex yesterday and yours was the first video I found looking for instructions. Also found an online manual over at BAMA. Took as long to set up as it took to watch your video. 73.

[@ai5dd]

I worked you back in February 2022, I always come back to this video for a refresher on how to adjust my bug. I have been using a Vibroplex Standard "upgraded" for 2 years now exclusively in the shack unless I'm in the field where I use a iambic electronic key. I have to keep in practice with the latter due to muscle memory issues. 73 de AI5DD

[@sharonsscrappyspace]

Excellent! Thanks. I was in the midst of bug-adjustment woes (S/N 193899 ca. 1956). I have used it for forty years, and the "bug gremlins" have somehow recently gotten it all out of adjustment. Thank you for concise, straight-forward, practical instructions!

[@JimWB8SIW]

Thanks! I strongly recommend that all new CW operators first learn to send good, clear, concise code using a straight key. This allows one to learn and fully integrate the sense of timing and rhythm required to be a proficient CW operator. Learn to send good readable code using a straight key first, before learning to use a bug, electronic keyer, or any other semi-automatic or automatic device. 73, Jim

[@joeblow9126]

Agree step by 🚶 step

[@JimWB8SIW]

Thanks for the nice comments and question about learning both codes. It's a bit like knowing two different languages and I rarely mix them up. There are many men and women active on the Morse Telegraph Club "land-line" networks (MorseKOB and KB or HN Telegraph Hubs) who use both codes. I agree with your elmer. Become proficient with a standard (straight) key, develop a good sense of rythm and spacing, then learn to use a bug. Have fun and think "CW forever!" 73, Jim, WB8SIW

[@prtclmn001]

Thank you very much! I have used straight keys and paddles but wanted to venture into the "bug" world and now have a 1955 Vibroplex Blue Racer. Thanks for helping me get it into adjustment so I can start practicing!

[@thomasyoung7351]

Thank you for this video. I would never have figured this out by my self.

[@leegroce2943]

Thank you Jim for this valuable information! That is a very nice key! I tried learning the American Morse once but I kept confusing it with the International Morse. I have never understood how CW Operators could use both.

[@TheSpitfiregoggles]

Hi Jim, many thanks for this video, I was given a Vibroplex Bug last year by the widow of a SK who wanted it to go to a "Happy Home" but until now I haven't been able to set it up so I could use it successfully...your video has changed that! The use of a feeler gauge and the correct positioning of the pendulum against the damper I found especially useful. Many thanks again, 73 EE Simon G0CIQ . .

[@Thelesphore]

Terrific video. I have a bug just like yours that I purchased, and last used in 1974. I just had it refurbished at Vibroplex and now needed tp learn how to adjust. Perfect! Thanks so much Jim!! 73, Bob - W2TAC

[@noginnog]

Hi Jim, Thank you for the fine video I am just getting to grips with the bug key for the first time in 40 years of operating and I found your video very helpful indeed, 73 Rich G4FAD..

[@LETCA]

Great presentation. You made a fairly complex item easy to understand

[@Not_So_Weird_in_Austin]

Thanks my wife, general class, has one and we never could figure how to adjust

[@stargazer0953]

Thank you for this video. Just purchased my first bug and adjusted it per this video. 73

[@53tanyas]

Many thanks for info 73 de TA2KT

[@Ronster3455]

...Amazing ! ...you have turned a one-hour haphazard adjustment in to a precise 5 minute setup...I really like the part of setting the dot contact spacing by just making contact with the dot contact on a floating but static pendulum...I have used the ohm meter technique in the past and keying the dots to about half scale on the ohm meter...but I must admit your technique is waaaaay simpler !!! thanx Ronnie K0XY

[@MarkFelty]

Thanks for making the video. I received one (circa 1979) from another operator who helped me get started, and it needed the top bushing that popped out while at a field day. Gravity won that day :( Anywhoo, I found your video helpful, and can't wait to try it out once I get the jack for my radio. 73 from GA, KK4TXZ

[@FilmakademieKelleBerlin]

Thanks Jim, at last I understood how the bug works, from grants makes it really fun to learn morse.

[@ps7jn]

Nice! thanks, I adjust my vibroplex fine with your instructions. a true class about this bug.

[@k6jeb]

Jim, thank you so much for such a clear and concise video of this subject. I've had two vintage bugs (a 1940's National Telegraph and an 80's Vibroplex Chrome) that I was getting almost nowhere with, until tonight when I came across this video. I had sent on other bugs (almost) just fine but I just couldn't get the adjustments right on my own keys, using a text-only description. 73 and dit-dit! Jack, K6JEB

[@lovedemcrybabies6215]

Just bought a 1958 bug and am using this video as a guide... thanks! Ed WI9ED

[@jaredkusner1137]

A wonderful video. thank so much. Can't wait to adjust and use mine on the air.

[@Charlotte-wp9rf]

Hey Jim, great presentation! I’ll be watching this again when I get another bug. Looks so easy when you do it. I’ve done the straight key and paddles. We shall see what happens when I try it. Hihi! Thanks. 73 Sis, WD8DIN

[@EdK8]

Good video. If you don't have a 0.015" feeler gauge, you can use a stack of two standard index cards to set the left trunion gap.

[@TheSpitfiregoggles]

I only have a metric feeler gauge but found that 0.38mm is almost exactly 0.015". I degreased the feeler gauge blade first as its last use was to set up the ignition points on my motorcycle!

[@mattikaki]

15/1000 " is a huge gap for me when using Vibrokeyer, where I have a gap of 0,1 mm which equals approx 4/1000 ". But tnx for this tutorial as I'm trying to adjust my beautiful Vibroplex DeLuxe.

[@geoffreyschecht6477]

Nice video, Jim. Not a whole lot of people know the Continental code and it was a bit surprising to find someone these days who does. (It took me forever to get my copy speed up to about 35 WPM in the early 1980's, just so I'd be confident in having 20 WPM down cold when I too my Extra exam back in 1985. I only operated CW for a few years before and after I got my Extra and was using either a Brass Racer or Bencher during that time with an old Heathkit iambic electronic keyer.) I've had a few old Vibroplex bugs sitting around for years and recently started practicing with them (these newer, DSP-IF radios make CW reception a snap compared to the old crystal or mechanically-filtered ones). None of my bugs were really set up correctly and it's been a bit of an uphill battle learning how to use one properly. Now that you've shown the correct procedure, I'm going to set my old Champion up as you demonstrated and see if I can finally learn how to send acceptable code with it. Thanks for the tips!

[@jacksmail7725]

Appreciate very much the video on the Bug. Just acquired a circa 1939 Lightning Bug serial number 110325. Last patent number recorded on tag is 1445226. Had no clue how to setup this keyer. Flipped it over and found W2JVP still legible. An internet search showed this key at Schofield Barracks circa 1940 at amateur station R6PLX. Unable to determine if W2JVP was at Pearl or part of a stateside net. Could be interesting history. As you video is several years old ...well u may not ever see these comments. If u do, thanks for the set-up video. Was just what was needed. jP Formerly WN8 UTU; circa 1967, cols ohio. EOM

[@careycraig4360]

Great Video! Very usefull information, especially for those just getting to know these VIBROPLEX KEYS!

[@only20notes]

Jim, thanks for sharing the adjustment method. Great video! dit dit dit dah dit dah dit dit

[@Terribleguitarist89]

I'm getting a '56 vibroplex champion soon. I'm new to CW (took the code requirement going away for me to get interested HI HI) so it was be my goal trophy of sorts until I get skilled enough with a straight key to warrant the step up. Great video, 73's KC9FJE

[@DrSolidsender]

Many thanks. I have adjusted my bug per your instructions. I can now send OK and hope to improve. Love cw!

[@cottersay]

Excellent video!!

[@jonkannegaard7345]

Thank you for the great video. Incidentally those of us who grew up with bugs find using keyers a bit foreign too. Thanks, K6JEK

[@wadepatton2433]

Thanks Jim. I have one in the mail now (a mid-fifties Lightning) and now I'm confident I can set it up properly. What really surprises me is that I cannot find any support file or instruction pages at Vibroplex. I did find some obviously Vibroplex verbage on a German CW site, and it basically said "Don't mess with it, we set it up right at the factory" (I suspect this is from an older ownership of the company. But these days every maker of ANYthing generally has some "how to" stuff on their product web pages. I digressed. I'll strive to make it send good code.

[@jimsmith1166]

Wonderful! I've had my bug for years, but it wasn't set up quite right. Now it is. I appreciate this video. Thank you! VA7ER

[@pierreve2ebpve2hs2]

Wow Jim... Great explanations. Thank you. Was referred to your video by Troy, W6HV from the Yahoo Vibroplex group. Was hoping though that you would cover the dits adjustment blade/contact.. My dits are not consistently starting right away the first time. Thanks, Pierre, VE2EBP/BG@MorseKOB

[@submarineradioman5535]

While a radio operator in the submarine service the engine man could never figure out why I occasionally wanted to borrow their feeler gauges... great video - lots of memories

[@mrstepstool]

Thank you kind sir for this video ! I just got my 1946 Vintage Original and I tried to adjust it for at least two hours on my own ! Was using a .010 gap and thought that was cool. Anyway, after I saw your video, I had it correct in about 10 Min.! 30 years ago I had my first Original, also used, and gave up on it in disgust ! It took me this long to get interested in a bug again. Yes I am a Ham, Extra Class, don't mind my screen name please. Thanks again !

[@trig6712]

Excellent and many thanks GM4NNC

[@MrTPF1]

Just picked up a Vibroplex and adjusted it per your instructions. Thanks for posting such an informative video. 73's! N1MQC

[@jb1122ka4wyc]

Jim, thank you for your video on setting up a Vibroplex bug. I have several and NONE on the air, because they are adjusted incorrectly...!! I would also like to see a video on how to wire the plug to the radio, an ICOM IC-746Pro. Maybe one day I'll get it right...!!! 73 Jeff KA4WYC

[@eogg25]

i checked my army technical manual for the adjustment of the front stop screw and you are right on, vibroplex just says start with a large gap, i like ur way but everyone is different but 1.5 thousands is probably a misprint. nice video.

[@richardfriess4356]

Jim, Thank you for the video. I just bought the twin to this bug, and through your vid, found it all out of adjustment. Now I can use the thing. Thanks again, KA8KCR

[@hamradio3716]

Very nicely done. Very good tips. Will try adjusting my left handed Vibroplex bug. 73, Bernie, VE3FWF

[@flashMXdesigner]

Nice job on the tutorial. I am new to CW and was wondering if there was anything barring me starting on the Vibroplex Bug. I love the design of these instruments and they seem very precise. Thanks for any replies, 73 Dave

[@wallaceshackleton1889]

Today I learned something new. Makes a lot of sense.

[@wadepatton2433]

Mine arrived today 195811-maybe 1956 and it appears to have never been set up or used. The original cable was attached (and has never been in a plug) and the weight was tied to one of the posts with brown cotton string. Don't think it has ever been put on the bar. And the contacts were wildly out of place. Going to pretty it up, but had to try setup to make it feel somewhat right before I do that. So this happened: After I set the right trunion screw as directed. THEN adjusting the dah gap pulled the bar off way off the damper. Methinks the dah gap needs to be close to what you're going to use before setting the trunion screw and that they are ultimately best adjusted together for tight spacing and proper damping. Now to make a cable, the original doesn't fit my rig!

[@Satchmoeddie]

I just tweaked it, until I got 12+ good clean even dits, at any speed from slow to very fast before the spring stops bouncing, and then set the dah contact very close, & I used a .013" guitar string & sure enough, the string just fits when I have it working best for me, & my hand. I think .015" is a bit wide for me. I have machinist's feeler gauges, but I also have plain music wire guitar strings in bulk from .006-.018" in .001 increments more readily available on my workbench. I find I do markedly better using my left hand to send with these, and that also frees up my right hand to copy any incoming messages, and or log outgoing messages with a pencil & paper. Once I got it adjusted, it really works great. I may need new rubber feet for mine, as it is 58 years old, now. I'm sure I have some of those in my parts bins anyway. I ran some 0.1 micron alumina grit over the contacts which were actually in really good condition. I have used toilet paper that is more abrasive than 1 micron grit alumina, let alone 1/10 micron. I try to avoid Milltex toilet paper. It was that awful brown fiberous garbage paper the public schools stocked the lavatories with. It does make an exceptionally great patching paper for ripped loudspeakers. I will load up on a small armload of it when I come across it. Most people are not that cheap or cruel anymore. LOL

[@paulrmatzke298]

nice video. what is the key attached/wired to? what kind of oscilliator do I get?

[@OH3WE]

Thank you, Jim. Got my Vibroplex Champion adjusted properly. Quite a bitch to handle but I think I'll learn it by time being. 73!

[@toobroke2fight]

WHY would you learn both Int and RR morse code? wont the two get mixed up in your head? I love your vid! You have worked at learning both types of CW and you should be showing off! You have a freat Fist on a bug! My elmer says stay away from a bug until im at 12-15WPM. Im at 20 and have a cravin' for a bug!!!!!!! TU OM --... ...--

[@ThadmanKane]

Nice video, I have a s/n 162210, was it still a circa 1956 or earlier? Is there any way to track down its manufacture date via the serial numbers?

[@diegogarciamedina6363]

Hi, if you key dot, how much dots are generated until elastic energy can not keep it working?

[@JimWB8SIW]

Vibroplex keys are still manufactured and the company web page has a nice chart, which one can use to cross-reference a serial number against date of manufacture. Check "Date Your Vibroplex" on the Vibroplex Company web page. It appears your key was manufactured about 1949. 73, JW

[@dsapadin]

I"m sure this is a good tutorial -- if I could only see what you're talking about! This key from 1944 was given to me and I'm determined to get it working, but really cannot see about half of what you are talking about. Thanks for the effort tho. N9DMS

[@AA8XX2]

I really liked it, but the side tone audio sucked on the dot's hi hi hi hi Thanks again for doing it 73 tom

[@jayandstacey1]

How does it oscillate? Nothing really to do with the screws, rather the design of the long arm going from the finger paddles out to the damper. That arm isn't a single rigid rod, rather it has three pieces. The middle piece is a very short section just between the trunnions and the dot contact. It is a flexible piece of metal, like a small piece of a hacksaw blade, maybe 1/4 inch long, just enough to allow oscillation. Pushing on the dot side on the "front half" of the long arm causes th

[@TheLibertyguys]

Thank you for this tutorial. I just got my first bug yesterday...a 1944 lightening bug. I had no idea how to set it up. de WK4DS

[@JimWB8SIW]

@grnzbra Hello: Thank you so much for your interest in the video, but I am a bit confused by your post. You are suggesting the 11 to 15 thousandths is a large gap and you are recommending 1.5 thousandths. Are you sure about your measurements? An ordinary piece of 20 lb bond paper is 0.003 to 0.004 inch thick and you are recommending a gap of one half the width of an ordinary piece of paper! This is certainly not recommended. Viewers should stay with the recommendations in the video

[@atf2940]

"One 15 thousands of an inch" is 25.4 mm / 15000, i.e. 0.0017 mm! No feeler gauge I know has such a thin leaf! The common recommendation is a gap of 0.3 to 0.4 mm. (This 0.012 to 0.016 in, i.e. abt. 1/80 to 1/60 of an inch.) Judging from the video you are using an even wider gap. Otherwise, very nice keying technique!

[@ThatMichaelPerry]

Awesome. Thank you for this great video. 73 & gud dx de Ki6H

[@OH3WE]

www.michigannet.org does not exist?

[@JimWB8SIW]

In reference to the viewer (ID "grnzbra") recommendation to set the gaps to 1.5 thousandths; this is too small. I recommend viewers stay with the gap spacing recommended in the video. Thanks! Jim, WB8SIW