How To Properly Install The Crankshaft Rear Main Rope Seal On The Willys MB / Ford GPW L134 Engine

[@michelle-lz8tg]

this demonstration was 'pure gold' thank you for this....i had to polish the rear main seal area on my crank as it was pitted a bit....this made it a bit undersized so the more modern two piece rubber seals may not have worked...the rope seals are a bit more forgiving on the exact diameter.

[@BadAcidd]

Thanks..... Need to install a rope in my 1964 ford falcon 200ci inline 6..... Only thing available was the rope seals. Glad you all made this video

[@kellyborden5620]

Restoring a 45 MB , could not imagine not having the g503 to lean on , thanks guys

[@shall2117]

This guy is a godsend

[@amyjb916]

These engine videos are very helpful. I'm doing an engine rebuild for my 1947 CJ2A and was looking for help. Your quality and clarity of the videos is excellent. I always learn some new things with your videos. I rebuilt the engine before when I was in high school 50 years ago. Trying to do it right this time! Thank you Scott.

[@TeamG503]

Jim Amy thank you, your comment made my morning👍

[@GreatOutDoorWorldofMines]

This was gold, THANK you, and for not wasting my time with all the filler at the start of most videos. Waiting until the end actually made me sub because now I know all the videos will be the same efficiency. I just tore the transmission off a sailboat this afternoon, only to find this type of seal. (Doh) Tomorrow I'll be doing handstands trying to drop the oil pan I suppose. Who knows how I'll squeeze the new rope around the installed crank. I'd hate to have to lower the whole crank, what a bigger job!

[@tonysultana6064]

I am doing a 1945, and it is a lot of help

[@5esk]

Спасибо всё подробно рассказываете :) Thank you for telling me everything in detail :) I'm from Russia

[@andygutierrez4544]

Good tip. I always mold and install the seal first, then I install the bearing so I don't nick or damage the bearings.

[@appuappu5420]

230

[@stephenjackman6163]

Andy Gutierrez I noticed that too.

[@edstransitscott9186]

Great to know, keep them videos coming Scott

[@RFJP_G503]

hey sparky

[@GrumpyUnkMillions]

I;ve done rope seals since 1964. I think all that 'fuzz' will keep the cap from sitting tight against the block. Have you ever done the assembly as demonstrated, and put a strip of Plastigage in place? If so, was the clearance correct? My experience has been all the fuzz has to go, when pressed in place, it will fold over and lay flat, and be compressed between cap and block. Not good. When working under a vehicle, I use a razor blade to trim off the strings, and push one side of the seal up into the recess, and allow the other half to be pushed or offset so I don't have a rope-to-rope meet that is on the parting line of the main cap. One end is 'up' recessed into the block, the other side is down, and goes into a matching recess in the cap. I leave NO strings from the seal between the cap & block as I expect they would cause the bearing clearance to be incorrect. Do the assembly as you do, leaving out the RTV, and use Plastigage. Check the clearance, and take a picture of how many bits of string are left between the cap & block. I bet you'll be surprised. tom

[@coopercruse5867]

I to have fitted rope seals since about the mid 70,s. You are totally correct. cut the rope seal with a brand new razor blade flush or with around 10 thou above no more, The seal will push up slightly as its tensioned in to place. Remove the cap and check both bearing clearance and for trimmed seal interference between cap and block clean it up if necessary. Make sure to lube seal surface with either molly grease and or engine oil. I use a bit of both , then check that the seal is not to tight and dragging buy simply using a tension wrench. You should be able to rotate the crank with no less than 10ft lbs and no more than 25 ft lbs. This will ensure correct seal contact which is not to excessive allowing easy cranking and lowing the chance of seal damage. I think the method shown here leaves a lot to be desired. You can clearly see the cap has not sat flush at the rear.

[@219Tucker]

Yep also have been doing it since the 60's. You are exactly correct. I also use a razor blade and have a special tool kit to remove and install rope seals in the vehicle.

[@michelle-lz8tg]

awesome supplemental info

[@pedullabass]

I have pitting on the crank @ the rear main seal area. What is the smallest the crank can be turned down at this area?

[@outboard7549]

Good stuff. Any advice or video on changing the rear main seal in a L134 engine that is not being rebuilt? Also, what is your opinion on the rubber seals vs rope? Thank you for these videos as I’m working on my first Willys.

[@TeamG503]

Outboard 75 it could be done by dropping the oil pan and working from underneath. The biggest challenge would be and most important, cleaning . I have seen this procedure done. Maybe a vid for the future👍

[@TeamG503]

Outboard 75 my opinion is Rope was factory😉👍

[@thewholls7176]

Man those rope seals are nasty to my mind And if you are a DIYer like me it’s hit and miss in Australia the 308 Holden V8‘s had endless trouble with leaking rear main seals...... a lot of them ended up back at the dealer in the early days and the fix was to pull the motors out put in a new rope seal cut the half moon shape slightly proud of the block and allow for some crush when the end cap goes back on with a drop of silicon here and there......and that was it neoprene conversion is the way to go boys....! Depending on the crank you still have to cut the neoprene seal but they strategically position the join with a drop of silicon and it seems to be okay I think they put the joint at the 12 o’clock position to be honest

[@Garagemonkey11575]

Are used a putty knife laying flat on surface then took a serrated kitchen knife and gently cut it straight and even seem to work better than a razor blade I had that was sharp

[@davidsposato8592]

Just wondering can you install the rope seal without removing the engine and crank?

[@GrumpyUnkMillions]

If you don't mind the oil dripping in your face while lying underneath. There are tools to help pull the old seal out, and to help pull the new seal in. I would soak the seal in oil for a good while to get it saturated. Mash it into the bearing cap, feed the tool over the top of the crank and grab one end, pull into place while rotating the crank. Cut flush, offset a bit and match the other half.

[@thewholls7176]

I forgot to mention please let me know how yours held up did it leak...?

[@TeamG503]

I’m still in the building stage of the 43 Willys MB. However. I run the engine once a week now for months. I have had to issues👍

[@danielsmith5023]

That fella working on the car sounds like Johnny Cash

[@peterdevreter]

Didn't use some liquid seal while installing the "rope" and now my crankshaft seal leaks again at the transmission side :( And on my opel from 1964 its an engine oud job. If I only watched this earlyer.... Great video nonetheless!

[@pcmmulders]

why not put the seal at 1 O'clock so you do not have the strings between the surface. With this flush method I highly doubt that your bearing clearance is within 0029' limit.

[@yvesponcelet7830]

Join de vilebrequin côté embrayage jeep willys

[@markw95]

Sorry to tell you but wrong, you don't cut the rope flush that is completely incorrect.