How To Quickly Flush & Bleed Brakes By Yourself

[@tomscyclerecycling8242]

Nicely done. Quick and to the point with no nonsensical babbling. That's how instructional videos are supposed to be. Thanks!

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@edgarfrancisco8022]

I like that you get straight to the point and don't do a lot of repetitive talking that brings u back to the same thing. Kept it straight forward, simple and made it look easy. Great job 👍

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@heinzkitzvelvet]

Just ordered the Mityvac based on your video. 45 bucks and it'll be here tomorrow. Replaced the calipers on my '97 Toyota T100, but had no idea how to bleed the system. Thank you very much, sir.

[@petrocksgarage]

No problem. Glad to be of service. Good luck!

[@heinzkitzvelvet]

@@petrocksgarage it worked like a charm. Brake pedal is firm. Everything is good. Thanks again.

[@petrocksgarage]

@@heinzkitzvelvet Thats great! I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.

[@DavoShed]

Great Video. There are some hopeless explanations out there. I think you nailed it.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@georgeruff3746]

Good info without wasting time on unnecessary comments. I've watched 4-5 videos on this subject and some waste half the video on gab. Also, you're the first to mention not to get brake fluid on your paint - and you mentioned it twice. Thanks.

[@petrocksgarage]

+George Ruff, thanks. I’m glad my videos helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.

[@303storm]

I agree

[@850are2]

I agree. Good video

[@jamesyoung5610]

Best brake bleeder video I've seen! The engine is the 2.0 liter Ford zetec dohc, small? Sure. But the Honda k20 and f20c, are likely the best 4 cylinders ever made

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm not an expert of 4 cylinders. I'm more of a 6 & 8 cylinder guy. But Honda does make good engines, if they are properly maintained of course. I was mostly commenting, in the video, on the condition of the car itself, which was pretty beat up. It actually got T-boned & totaled by a drunk driver with no injuries a few months after this video was made, which is why there are no other videos on this channel of that car.

[@charlesmartin3265]

Wow this has to be hands down the best video tutorial on how to bleed your brakes and how to properly us a vacuum pump. You totally rock. as always be blessed

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@thomasgronek6469]

Bleeding can also be done by pressuring the system, caution, plastic parts break, not too much pressure.

[@714jk]

Thanks for this video. I've had my Mityvac for 6 months and finally used it today. The grease tip was a big help. And my wife will never have to pump the pedal for me again.

[@petrocksgarage]

And that's what I'm here for. Improving family relationships. :-)

[@allenrodon2406]

hey bro just a tip I guess you have not thought of yet. when you drain the master cylinder you can use the mityvac to do that that way you can throw away the turkey baster. I've got the same system been using it for years. also the little reservoir always bother me so I upgraded to a peanut butter jar I can do all 4 brakes without having to empty the reservoir. I gotta the fittings for my Home Depot. hope this helps you brother :)

[@petrocksgarage]

+allen rodon, Yeah, I know I can use the mitivac to drain the reservoir. Another commenter mentioned it a while ago. Its a good idea and I've used it since I made this video. The peanut butter jar is another good idea. Thanks for the tip.

[@ssauto7195]

There is a problem with that. If you don't build up vacuum and insert the other end into master, you would start pulling fluid into the piston.

[@TheRealitarian]

And you could use the peanut butter instead of grease to seal up the line...a two-fer!

[@ramblinman7153]

How do you connect everything to the peanut butter jar?

[@jeffleblanc8850]

You have the best video on this on you tube the grease is a great idea a little grease don’t hurt no one it’s like every body all wound up about getting brake fluid on your hands I’ve had my hands soaked with it like I’m still living after doing it a quite a few years are you not worried about wen you emptied out the brake fluidity at first that it would get more air in the master or buy refilling and doing the process you don’t have t worry about air I got to go bleed a 95 gmc with bullshit abs and I had to change a line the line goes to abs unit also wen line broke it went dry so I’m sure I’m going to have a fun time getting air out of system I went and bout a vacuum unit yesterday I would rather use pressure but they are expensive any way I got to go get at it and hopefully I can get some brakes on this ole dually thank you for you great informative video

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@zurdoremi]

tip: to prevent any spilled fluid from going anywhere, wrap a rag around the mouth of the fluid reservoir so any spill falls on the rag.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thats a good tip!

[@donanwaarkhan6754]

Best video for one person to do the brake bleed . The grease tip around the bleeder screw was awesome as it did actually work. Thanks

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out.

[@Twitch_Moderator]

Your demonstration was perfect. Your explanations were also perfect. Not overcomplicating it for anyone 👍

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot, I appreciate it.

[@suprafeen22]

This helped me out a lot. My car hasn't moved because I need my brakes bleeding due to replacing the calipers both front and back. Now I don't have to keep waiting on a friend to have a day off to help me.....thanks

[@petrocksgarage]

+Genesis Harrigan, I'm glad my video helped you out. Enjoy the new brakes and a car that can stop!

[@martinfowler9203]

Good video. I always crack the bleeder screw first with a regular socket, then switch to the line wrench.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thats a good tip, especially if you don't have line wrenches. Preferably a 6 point socket.

[@kkampy4052]

The grease around the bleeder is a great idea. I've always had problems with air leaking in there. I've had some luck using Teflon tape on the threads but I think this will work better. Great video.

[@petrocksgarage]

K Kampy, thanks a lot. I’m glad it helped.

[@wisewolf50]

Thanks for the tutorial. I would recommend using silicon grease for the seal rather than moly. Its more effective and not as messy.

[@petrocksgarage]

Use whatever gets the job done really, IMO. I'll have to try silicone grease on my next brake job. Thanks for the tip.

[@genestanco6558]

Just info . Homedepot sells different sizes of the clear hose in plumber fitting isle.

[@petrocksgarage]

Cool. Thanks for the tip!

[@tpowell453]

Folks, those bleeder vacuum tools are cheap and worth their weight in gold. Nice video dude! Thanks for posting.

[@petrocksgarage]

+Ima SuperPerson, thanks I appreciate it.

[@robertclymer6948]

Yes, looks like the way I am going to do it. Saw the Mity vac at Harbor Freight just yesterday.

[@-CCdude]

Change the fluid in the master cylinder before you start right on guy I've been doing that for years when I bleed brakes. The video is in depth and shows a lot of common sense stuff thanks..................

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@UCfan]

Thank you for your clear instructions. I was trying to do this today in preparation for a change of pads and rotors. I was having a lot of air coming through the line so thanks for the grease technique. I also appreciate the tip about leaving the master cylinder lid ajar. It never occurred to me that I was creating a vacuum. Thank you!

[@petrocksgarage]

I'm glad my video helped you out. Good luck.

[@Andre2Great1972]

great job went to harbor freight for 30.00 dollars and what a job it did thanks been doing brakes for over twenty years this was very helpful thank you agian

[@petrocksgarage]

Andre2Great1972, no problem. I'm glad it helped you out. Enjoy the new tool. :-)

[@peteowens3033]

Have the same pump. Rebuilding calipers and replacing the rear wheel cylinders in my car now so I will be doing this soon too. Thanks for the tip about the grease. I did my truck last spring and never was sure when all the air was out because of the fitting leak as you addressed with the grease. As it turned out for me all was good but nice to know how to avoid that confusion in the first place. Thanks!

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I'm glad my video helped you out. Good luck with your car.

[@1506pinkers]

Nice tip regarding the use of grease around the nipple. A simple and very useful video. Thanks.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@pedrochip]

Thanks for the grease tip. I suffered from air bubbles as well when i was doing my car. I thought air got in my lines but it was just a poor connection

[@petrocksgarage]

No problem. Glad to be of service.

[@TheRealitarian]

"Thanks for the grease tip." That's what she said.

[@snowdaysrule]

This video is great! I wasn't sure if the mc reservoir cap was supposed to be put back or not after adding fresh brake fluid. And air entering the system at the bleeder valve is definitely something to watch for so great you mentioned it. I learned this the hard way myself lol if only I'd watched this first!

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I'm glad my video cleared some things up for you.

[@scottneels2628]

Yip! blue tac works great too, easier to clean up. Also that kit comes with a short hose to go down to the bottom of the catch bottle into some fluid so no air can go backward to the brake, and with the penny sized suction cup adapter on it, it acts like a one way valve only letting fluid inward from the caliper then sucking onto the bottom of the container so no old fluid can go back. They're really cool once yah know how to use them. They're completely useless without grease or Bluetack/Plasticine. Thanks heaps.

[@petrocksgarage]

Glad you liked the video.

[@grizzladams]

Always wondered what those little suction cups were for

[@scottneels2628]

@@grizzladams yeah, I admit, I didn't know for yonks either. Lol

[@smoke9327]

Awesome video u actually told us how to do everything. Unlike some other people tnx

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@damainmainman]

Thanks for the video, it was easy to follow and informative. I know for a fact I wouldn't have been able to this without all the tricks you mentioned. Thanks again and keep up the good work.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks alot. I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.

[@wusta515]

Thanks for the video. Came across this while searching for other ways and a better pump. I've been using this method for a few years now. I skip the grease because it's a mess and doesn't really do anything. Bubbles aren't really important. Just tells yo you're sucking in air from the loose bleed valve. Air isn't going to flow in the valve and flow thru all your components. Just keep sucking until new fluid comes out and done. The pressure doesn't really matter also. I just close the bleeder as it's sucking. that's it. The pin on the mityvac is quite annoying. Keeps coming off. I may 3d print something to just lock it in place while i'm pumping.

[@petrocksgarage]

If you are doing a full bleed because the brake system was opened up (e.g. replaced brake line, master cylinder or caliper etc) you definitely do not want any bubbles otherwise there is no way to know if you've gotten all the air out or not. That is what the grease is for. If you are just doing a brake fluid flush then you could make the assumption you are referring to. However, if you do you could miss any air that could have gotten into the system. But in the end, its your ride so do with it what you want. Re miti-vac pin: I haven't had that issue while pumping. The issue I tend to have is accidentally hitting the pressure relief lever while I'm pumping or after I pumped it up and put it down on the ground. Wish I had a 3d printer to print up a guard of some kind.

[@55commander]

Thanks for the video, good tip on the grease to control small leaks, but you are drawing a vacuum not pressure with the pump.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Vacuum is negative pressure, btw. www.quora.com/What-is-the-difference-between-negative-pressure-and-vacuum-pressure

[@sal98]

Heard about using the grease to seal joint about a year ago, best trick ever. Started using my Mitty vac again and made bleeding brakes full proof.

[@petrocksgarage]

My dad taught me the grease trick when I was a kid. Has come in handy many times. Not just with brake jobs, but with bleeding any hydraulic system.

[@charleswilson4598]

Really good video. Video was clear and easy to see and the explanation was very well done. I was looking for a way to bleed my brakes without pumping the pedal, and I just happen to have an old mightyvac that I have had for a long time but never used much, so I think I am in business. Thanks for the time to make the video.

[@petrocksgarage]

No problem. I'm glad my video helped you out.

[@РомаМатвеев-ц9ч]

Ch TУT МOЖНО НАKРYTИTЬ ЛAЙKИ, ПOДПИСЧИKOВ PАCКPYTKА ГРУПП. ПЕPЕХОДИТЕ В ПPОФИЛЬ, TAМ CСЫЛКА HА CAЙТ

[@turkey0165]

A very informative video on how to bleed your disc brake line! I wish the Internet was around and KZbin 40 years, ago so many break jobs would’ve been easier!

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@gregorymartin219]

Very nice video, took your time editing . You got to the point very clearly. In the refrigeration field the line wrench is called a flare nut wrench. We use a larger size than that one for breaks in the auto industry.. You kept saying 15 - 10 PSI. Vacuum is read in inches or negative pressure for most of the industry in the USA . PSI is a positive pressure. ( not to knock you in any way ) You rock . keep up the good work. The one person method is to risky. I was having trouble to keep air from re entering the lines.

[@petrocksgarage]

+Gregory martin, thanks. I appreciate it. Yeah, i know about PSI. I mentioned in the description that I mixed that up while filming. Thanks for paying attention and noticing though. :-)

[@TexasPLNR]

+Gregory martin Bubbles are of no consequence since they enter downstream of caliper (bleeder or loose hose). Bubbles only enter bled fluid and does not enter brake system. I have used vac bleeding w/o grease or any other measures to prevent bubbles in stream. Think what would happen if you cracked the bleeder w/ no vac pump. Only brake fliuid would drain and no bubbles enter system (no pressure differential to drive bubbles into caliper). Same situation applies to vac bleeding.

[@gregorymartin219]

Texas Pipeliner Point made very clear. I agree with you. Again good work on the video. I just put my two cents for the people who don't know positive and negative pressures, where a pump is able to be reversed and be used for both pressures.

[@petrocksgarage]

+Texas Pipeliner, the point in bleeding the system is to get any air (and other contaminants) out of the system that might already be in the system. So you want to avoid air getting into the bled fluid and produce a false positive. The application of grease around the bleeder helps prevent that so you can be assured that you removed all the air from the system.

[@gregorymartin219]

Pet Rock's Garage Yes, you are correct. I didn't want to sound like I was condemning the people. But being a mechanic I have learned very fast to do the job correctly the first time to the best of your ability so you do not have to go do it again. Taking short cuts is a path to pie in your face. I don't care if you get away with it many times, it will come back to bite you doing short cuts. Another thing is home owners using old brake fluid ( alcohol base )that was already opened. The fluid is looking for moisture which kills, kills the brake system parts .

[@courtneyswartz8610]

From 2020, thanks for this video. By far the most comprehensive with the least amount of fluff, and gives me confidence that I can get my brake bleed done in a reasonable amount of time. Good thing I keep a few types of grease around...will likely end up employing that trick.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Glad to be of service.

[@triplenickle6995]

Good trick with the grease around the bleeder.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@shanek6582]

Man I really appreciate this video, I changed all of my break lines in my truck today and was under the assumption that I could just refill all the new lines by having someone pump the breaks while I blead the bleeder valves. First thing tomorrow I'm going to buy a vacuum pump, thanks sir.

[@petrocksgarage]

No problem. I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.

[@shanek6582]

Got it all finished now and it worked great, plus I saved the $1500 the stealership wanted to do the job, thanks again

[@petrocksgarage]

The dealer wanted $1500 to replace the brake lines & flush/bleed them? WTF!!! Yeah, really glad my video helped you out. :-)

[@shanek6582]

The $1500 isn't even the worst part, I knew I had a small break fluid leak but that's not why I took it in, I thought my transmission was making a noise but it turned out to be a dry front differential (which they charged $200 to fill)! Anyway, the break line was leaking and spraying on the side of my diesel tank (which I knew) the dealer called me and said I had a leak in my diesel tank and they were going to drop it to find the leak, then fix it. $400 to drop the tank, not including the fix, just labor. I immediately drove to the dealer before they figured it was just brake fluid and purposely put a hole in my tank. I bent over and wiped the brake fluid off the tank and told the mechanic to smell that it wasn't diesel and the motherfuckers argued with me that even though that may be brake fluid, it was leaking diesel an hour earlier! Dirty bastards, im sure my bill would have been several thousand. I'm so glad folks like you post how too videos. Ive had the bed off the truck for a few days and filled it up full with diesel, there's no leak.

[@petrocksgarage]

Wow, thats shady as hell. I had one try to tell me, a long long time ago, that a main shaft seal leak in my truck was due to me using an aftermarket air intake creating too much air pressure in the motor and as a result wasn't covered under warranty. There is a reason they are called stealer ships. If they can't find/fix the problem they try to dazzle you with bullshit.

[@MrCashSaver]

Thank you, very helpful, I like the grease sealing technique : )

[@petrocksgarage]

+Drew M, no problem. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.

[@josephterrana1344]

Thank you very much. I just bought a bleeding kit. I am very confident that I can bleed the brakes by myself.. I'm use to doing it the old school way, one person inside pumping the brakes.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Good luck.

[@charmhamrick]

Thank you for going step by step and explaining everything so clearly. I have a 2002 Chevy Impala LS 3.8 Liter. I'm doing work on it so I can save $$. Love the cat. I have 2 cats.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@danr1920]

Thanks. I think the one person system is easier than having one person in the car pumping the brakes and opening and closing the blender valve. My MightyVac is so old it was made in the USA! Maybe they still are, hope so.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks. Mine is over a decade old and it doesn't say where it was made.

[@bigsqueezy661]

Excuse my ignorance...would you re-fill the brake fluid reservoir prior to bleeding the other three brakes so that you don't run out of clean brake fluid? Thank you for the video as well.

[@petrocksgarage]

Yes. You don't want the reservoir to get too low otherwise it will let air in the brake system. If that happens you have to start all over again. You should also keep an eye on the level as you are bleeding each caliper. I typically top off the master cylinder reservoir when the vacuum pump reservoir gets full.

[@slv_car_refinisher6864]

@@petrocksgarage bro I have a 1978 datsun 280z. I'm replacing my master cylinder. What I was doing running brake fluid in to the brake lines and sucking thru a vacuum pump I bought.. Is there another way to clean old brake lines or easier. Or am I doing it correctly?... I was thinking to Disconect the four lines from the calipers and put compressed brake fluid and use the can to flush ac sistem... Do you think it will work ?

[@petrocksgarage]

@@slv_car_refinisher6864, it is a little hard to understand what you are asking. Compressed brake fluid? Flush AC system? Please elaborate. This question also might be a good candidate for it's own comment instead of replying to someone elses. Thanks.

[@slv_car_refinisher6864]

@@petrocksgarage first of all do you know what a ac flush can is?

[@petrocksgarage]

@@slv_car_refinisher6864, yes, but why would you want to put those chemicals into your brake system? No idea how it would react with brake fluid or the seals inside. That stuff is designed for AC systems not brake systems. Two completely different systems.

[@paulbornuat5655]

Nice idea to put grease around the valves, I've had the exact issue you describe and I didn't think of doing that, thanks!

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out.

[@wtfman5313]

Fan-friggin-tastic! You made it look simple man.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@KeithGriffinGMS]

Thanks for the tip about the grease around the bleeder valve, made my process that much faster!

[@petrocksgarage]

No problem. I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.

[@Puffalupagus360]

From 5 years in the future, thank you.

[@petrocksgarage]

No problem... from 5 years in the past.

[@kevinpritchard3592]

Excellent video with the extra hints and stuff. Thanks

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@paulespino6462]

Really great video! Straight to the point. Good angles and great little tips! Thanks for posting!

[@petrocksgarage]

No problem. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.

[@TheSupermicrobike]

Really good video:) Video was clear and easy to see and the explanation was very well done. ''The Grease'' on the screw is the trick to stop the air leaking and better pressure draw..

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@justaguy4real]

I'm about halfway thru. good video bud, and great explanation

[@petrocksgarage]

Hope it worked out.

[@BohappenstanceClick]

Watched several vids on this subject. Yours was the best. Thanks for the info about the grease trick.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@Blackford86]

I like the grease trick, and when you're all done just spray it down with break cleaner

[@petrocksgarage]

+Teri and TL Stanbro, thanks. It is handy (both the grease and the brake cleaner).

[@samhan7048]

+Teri and TL Stanbro Using a zip tie on the hose works just as well without the mess.

[@petrocksgarage]

+Sam Han, the zip tie trick only helps if the air leak is between the bleeder nipple and the hose. But the most common location for air to get in is at the base of the bleeder, where it screws into the caliper. A zip tie will not help in that case. The grease trick will handle both cases nicely.

[@silkytp789]

I have had great success with the mighty vac by crimping the brake hose with needle nose vice grips that have rubber hose on the business end of the pliers (controversial technique but it has always worked for me) then I remove the bleeder screw completely and use a wire wheel to clean the bleeder threads. After reinserting the bleeder screw and releasing he vice grips, no more air leaks with the mighty vac.

[@ericcheng5792]

I've never done this before so I got a dumb question. Would it be possible that the grease gets sucked into the brake system? I've been debating what is the best way to seal it.Some other videos on KZbin used Zip Tie to do it.

[@OldSneelock]

Thanks for the tip on using grease around the bleeder hose connection. I have been fiddling with this for a whole day.

[@petrocksgarage]

No problem. I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.

[@OldSneelock]

Pet Rock's Garage I drove the truck down to the auto parts store next to Midas and returned the parts I didn't need. Total cost of the project $60.00. That's $740.00 less than Midas wanted me to pay for work it didn't need. Thanks for making it work.

[@petrocksgarage]

Wow, Midas wanted to rip you off. Glad to see you saved some cash with my videos. Thats why I make them. Thanks for letting me know.

[@GG-bl2vm]

Thank you very much that was exactly what I needed to know. Very informative. Keep up the great work.

[@petrocksgarage]

Garry Gosnell, thanks. I appreciate it.

[@JodBronson]

I am really GLAD that this Video is very thorough and CLEARLY explained. Not many People put much effort on their Video like you do. I myself would have done the same, but NOT too many People would pay attention or even care about attentions to details. Although I know how to do it, I just stumble upon your Video by a link. I just wanted to make sure to leave a positive comment for other People who is looking for these kinda of Vids, and followed your Instructions and they would be good : D

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@shannonsisk]

Nice tip with the grease

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks. I'm glad it helped you out.

[@unitedwestand5602]

Pet Rock's Garage I have the Capri vacuum brake bleeder and was wondering if the seal on the bleeder valve isn’t tight and it is sucking air while draining fluid, is it possible to get air into the brakes? I would think it’s sucking the fluid and some “false” air but no way it’s going to get into the brake line. I know it looks like there’s air in the line but if that’s the only downfall I can live with it. Any thoughts thanks for the video

[@robertclymer6948]

Yes, good tip for sure! I just use a little clip or snug a plastic wire tie, works great too.

[@michaelhoworko8357]

excellent vid. I am going to use the vacuum method. I've been using the two man pump the brake pedal for years and i never get it right. one, i even pushed the brake pedal to the floor and wrecked the master cylinder seal. thanks!

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. This method should be a lot safer. :-) Good luck!

[@tomgrandshaw2367]

Grease method is a winner! Thanks.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks. I'm glad it helped you out. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.

[@OMGWTFLOLSMH]

A small hose clamp or tiewrap is a less messy way.

[@petrocksgarage]

Others have made this comment. I'll copy/paste my response below: Zip ties only work if the air is getting in where the hose connects to the bleeder nipple. That typically isn't where the air comes in. Air typically gets in at the base of the bleeder screw where a zip tie won't do any good. You can prove this yourself by closing the bleeder screw and pumping up the vacuum pump. If it holds pressure then the seal between the hose and the bleeder screw is not where the air is getting in. Grease is the easiest way I have found to ensure a good seal at both the base of the bleeder screw & the hose/nipple connection.

[@martinproctor5803]

Very clever. A good idea that I will use for other applications where vacuum pump is used. Thanks for the car fix "hack".

[@petrocksgarage]

+Martin Proctor, Thanks a lot.

[@VonFowler-fw3yh]

Good video. Instead of messy grease I use a putty. Electricians have a sealing putty they use to seal out moisture. It works well. Comes in a small block, a few inches.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thats an interesting idea. Is the putty reusable or is it one time use? I wonder how it holds up to brake fluid. Grease isn't that messy, IMO. Comes off pretty quickly with a couple shots of brake clean.

[@VonFowler-fw3yh]

@@petrocksgarage its reusable within reason, it's very much like thick plumbers putty, peels off without to much difficulty, I'd try it in a pinch but prefer Teflon tape of coarse over all else. Also it's non hardening. I wouldn't want to spray cleaner on my calibers as I'd like to keep the paint on them.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Brake fluid and paint don't mix at all A tip for people if you spill brake fluid clean area with water it will neutralize the brake fluid lots of water

[@petrocksgarage]

Yeah, I mention as such in the video. I'm not sure about water, but brake clean works really well too.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

@@petrocksgarage I said water because brake fluid becomes less effective with water contaminets its hydroscopic so if you use a ton of water in that area it will flood the brake fluid with water and brake fluid will obsorb the water and become less potent and corrosive to paint

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

@@petrocksgarage yes brake clean works but it's also harmful to certain paint water will neutralize the corssivness of brake fluid

[@chardon59803]

The grease idea is great, super information all through, I'm ready to go for it on my vehicle. Thanks!

[@petrocksgarage]

+chardon59803, thanks. I appreciate it. Good luck.

[@MrTidehead]

very helpful thank you straight to the point i love that

[@petrocksgarage]

No problem. I'm glad it helped.

[@SteveHollingworth]

Haven't read all the comments to see if this has already been mentioned, but you might use a zip tie around the clear hose just after the nub on the bleeder nut. You can then add grease later if need be. This has the effect of double sealing the bleeder nut and making it that much harder for grease to get sucked back into the line. Nice little demo/vid

[@petrocksgarage]

Steve Hollingworth, no using a zip tie hadn’t been mentioned before. Thanks. Thats a good idea. Maybe a re-usable worm clamp? With the fluid flowing, the amount of suction at the base of the screw is so low that there is little chance of the grease getting sucked into the line. If, however, the flow of fluid was blocked between the base of the bleeder screw and the master cylinder (e.g. crimped brake line) then there would likely be sufficient suction to suck in the grease. But the grease would get sucked into the clear hose, not the brake caliper, so you would see it. It follows the path of least resistance.

[@petrocksgarage]

Steve Hollingworth, after thinking about this a little bit, a zip tie would only help if the air was coming in at the connection between the bleeder & the hose. But typically the air comes in at the base of the bleeder screw where it screws into the caliper. So a zip tie would be useless in that scenario.

[@SteveHollingworth]

Pet Rock's Garage you're right about the zip tie and the location of the air leak. The zip tie is only there to prevent the scenario you described where the air is getting in between the bleeder and the hose.. The grease is there to seal the base of the bleeder screw where it goes into the caliper. You are also correct about the grease going into the clear hose, for some reason I wasn't thinking vacuum/suction. oops!! At any rate, very informational and well done not to mention taking the time to reply to the many comments you received.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks...

[@viplegaleducation1292]

Your amazing! Thanks so much for this great tutorial! I owe you one!

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@markmorto]

The grease is a great idea! I had the same air leak problem when I bled my brakes last. I tried Teflon plumber's tape to the bleeder valve, which only helped a little. I just pumped the brakes until the fresh fluid came through.

[@petrocksgarage]

+Mark Morton, yeah the grease is handy. Makes the job so much simpler and you don't have to mess with removing the bleeder screw to apply plumbers tape.

[@mateusz1399]

Can I use copper grease ?

[@markmorto]

+Mateusz K I don't think the type of grease matters. you just need something thick enough to keep air from getting into the system.

[@petrocksgarage]

Yeah, what +Mark Morton said. :-)

[@Laffy1345]

my pet rock, runaway.... Thank you for your video.

[@petrocksgarage]

Sorry to hear about your loss. :-) Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.

[@Laffy1345]

Thank you

[@petrocksgarage]

no problem.

[@gedgetips]

One thing I use with my vacuum bleeder is Teflon tape around the bleeder screw treads. The bleeder screw is removed and then wrapped in Teflon tape and this helps keep air from being pulled into the vacuum line in use. Cracking the bleeder screw only a little can also help, and grease should be effective as well. Good video.

[@petrocksgarage]

+gedgetips, teflon tape works well, but once you loosen the screw, even a little, the tape is garbage and won’t seal as well. At least thats been my experience. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.

[@gedgetips]

+Pet Rock's Garage True, although the newer kinda clear Teflon tape works a little better than the white stuff. next time I may try some pipe dope I use for doing plumbing work, as it could be easier to work and would not tear or pull away, but just didn't think of it before. There may be an ideal type of sealant to use we haven't yet discovered. Teflon tape has worked OK but I end up messing around with for awhile and if I did such work on a regular basis I would probably end up going with grease or something like pipe dope. Contamination shouldn't be much of a problem as normally the fluid should only be coming OUT w/ nothing being sucked back in. One thing would be to test anything being used w/ brake fluid first to make sure the fluid doesn't break it down into solution quickly. Tks for your fast feedback!

[@petrocksgarage]

+gedgetips, are you suggesting removing the bleeder, putting pipe dope (or teflon tape) on the bleeder threads, screwing the bleeder back in, and then bleeding the brakes? Sounds like a lot of extra work, risky and really messy to me. You have no control over where the pipe dope or tape goes when you tighten down the bleeder screw. It could squish into the caliper, or possible cover up the bleeder screw hole on the inside or any number of bad things. If even a little bit of that stuff gets into the brake system your screwed. The system is contaminated and possible fluid obstruction could occur causing loss in braking or possible damage to the master cylinder if it works its way up there. I too would be worried about how it reacts to brake fluid. Dot-3 brake fluid will eat paint, so who knows what it will do to pipe dope or teflon tape. And if memory serves, some pipe dope will harden over (a long) time making your job more difficult the next time. If you are just saying smearing pipe dope around the base of the bleeder while you are bleeding like I do with grease then that should be fine but a little overkill since pipe dope is designed for much higher pressures then will be seen while bleeding the brakes. Its also more expensive. But it's your ride. Do with it what you want.

[@gedgetips]

+Pet Rock's Garage I mostly apply the gray Oatey tape, which is much stronger than the usual Teflon tape, when I am replacing a caliper/wheel cyl or I am replacing brake hoses. Thus, no extra mess of note. Otherwise, I don't have much need to bleed to remove air when just replacing brakes and grinding drums and rotors. In this case have mainly been putting up with some bubbles from around the bleeder screw threads using my vacuum hand pump to start getting clear fluid. In this case I am just replacing the fluid with each brake job & then seeing bubbles isn't a problem. Still, lots of hand pumping is involved if I don't opt to use the vacuum off a running engine. Using grease could help make it go faster w/ a manual pump, and then just keep the Teflon for use, like I am mostly already doing, when there is a lot of air to remove due to my having introduced the air via a changed item. I just didn't think of using grease before, so tks for the suggestion as this can work along with what I already do and can make things easier.

[@robertrouse4264]

I don't have a cat to help me, will a wiener dog be okay ??

[@petrocksgarage]

+Robert Rouse, a wiener dog would probably be better. It's back is flatter & better for holding your socket tray and they will (sometimes) stay when you tell them to. :-)

[@BigEightiesNewWave]

Robert Rouse lol

[@darryl5372]

Even better if it's a male. He will pre-soak the wheels for you.

[@michelbrisebois4317]

I dont have a garage, I do all my bike's maintenance in the backyard with mummy skunk, she is sweet and curious.

[@anybleepinusername]

Thank you for making this video. It’s because of instructional videos like this that I realize that these jobs aren’t as difficult as I might have thought and I can save significant amounts of money by doing the work myself. If I could make one suggestion, (on the video editing, not the brake bleeding), it would be to leave the text instructions on the screen for more than 3 or 4 seconds. I don’t think I’m a slow reader but the text instructions at 3:18, 3:28, 3:49, 7:00, 8:10 were gone before I finished reading them, meaning I had to stop and rewind each time. Thank you.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Sorry for the text delay. I'll try to make future videos have a longer delay. Thanks for the tip.

[@soilmanted]

Pet Rock's videos seem to be better than most. Sometimes instructional videos make things look easier than they are in real life. Videos made by people selling parts they are showing you how to install in the video, are sometimes like that. For example the manufacturer or seller of a vacuum pump like the one used here, might leave out the tip of of putting grease on the bleeder nipple threads, that Pet Rock's Garage included here. Then after you spend hours and hours bleeding your brakes over and over again, and you still have a spongy pedal, you may have to go back to the drawing board and look for more information, or you might wonder if there is something wrong with your vacuum pump. I've seen "reviews" of vacuum pumps where the reviewer gave the pump a bad review, having assumed his inability to bleed his brakes was due to a defect in the vacuum pump, rather than due to his lack of knowledge on how to make sure air doesn't get into the brake system during the bleeding process. Now, maybe you expected to spend a Sunday bleeding your brakes but by Sunday night you are pooped and ready to conk out, and you have to drive to work Monday morning with brakes that are spongier now than before you started. Or you can't get to work at all because your car is still up on jack stands. Myself, when I write instructional material, no matter how hard I try to make sure I cover everything, I often find that, when I look back on my work later - "shoot, I left something out." That happens even if I wait a few days and read the material before I publish. Sometimes it is when I read my material weeks, months, or years later, after I published it, that I realize I left something out. That said, lots of people don't double-check their work at all, and leave out LOTS of things.

[@The13thSword]

Umm, you coulda used the vacuum bleeder kit to get the old fluid outta the reservoir, instead of the turkey baster. Just sayin....

[@petrocksgarage]

Yup, I could have. More then one way to skin a cat.

[@proton718]

true.... and funny

[@RL82]

Just found my mityvac in the attic just in time to do my front brakes, this video will help! Thanks!

[@petrocksgarage]

Good luck… Hope the video helps.

[@prestonjohnston4294]

zipties are useless guys! use grease or jelly.

[@petrocksgarage]

Exactly. :-)

[@petrocksgarage]

For an explanation why see the other comments suggesting using a zip-tie, and my reply on why a zip-tie wouldn't help.

[@skrutinizr9372]

The twisty ties they use on bread bags work great for that, too. Been using those for decades.

[@ScottElblein]

Would Vaseline work in place of grease? I've got a big ol tub of Vaseline right here. ;)

[@splash5974]

J. Scott Elblein Yup

[@ScooterBlia2]

Great advice on the grease. Haven't used one of these yet, just picked one up. But everywhere I read, they post about the false air bubbles. No one every posts a solution. I was going to take a small zip tie for each caliper.

[@petrocksgarage]

+Scotty “Scooter” B, thanks. Hand vacuum pumps have a bunch of different uses (diagnosing EGR valves, finding vacuum leaks, removing excess fluid etc). A zip tie wouldn’t help because the air typically enters at the base of the bleeder screw, not where the hose connects to the bleeder. Good luck with your brake job.

[@peterford9369]

Thanks, always bled with help and gonna get a vacuum tool. Was curious how well they worked. Thanks so much

[@petrocksgarage]

They work great and speed up the bleeding/flushing process a lot. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.

[@peterford9369]

Pet Rock's Garage Was well worth the watch. Nothing worse than buying something and finding out not worth the time and money. Seeing it work definitely helps. I'm sure others agree. thanks again.

[@petrocksgarage]

No problem. Glad to be of service.

[@RobertPaulDoran]

Always begin with the Slave cylinder/caliper farthest away from the Master cylinder. Every car I've ever worked on has the Master cylinder on the left front. So the farthest Slave cylinder/caliper would be the right(curb side/passenger side) rear wheel. As usual Pet Rock's, well done. Keep up the good work.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. Yes, that is a good rule of thumb to use.

[@davidmclellan9967]

Good job , thanks for the info. Big help..

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@dmesibov]

Nice video! Tossed my harbor freight vacuum pump after 1 use. I must have gotten brake fluid in it. Have a new mityvac coming from amazon. Getting rid of the air bubbles I think is the most challenging part of the procedure. It sucks to bleed your brakes and still have air bubbles in the hose not knowing if its in the system or just leaking around the bleed screw. The grease looks like a better solution then the Teflon tape around the nipple trick. Will try that next time. Very helpful. Thanks.

[@petrocksgarage]

Yeah, getting brake fluid in the pump will definitely mess it up. You can try taking it apart and cleaning it, but it will never be the same. Give the grease trick a try. It has served me well. I never understood the teflon tape trick because it requires you to remove the bleeder screw every time you bleed the brakes so you can apply fresh teflon tap to it. That is messy & lets air into the caliper. Teflon is a one time use product. Plus it doesn't hold up well against brake fluid. Anyway, good luck with the new pump.

[@shanechostetler9997]

Very good and simple explanation. One thing, the gauge is in inches of mercury, for registering vacuum..

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks. Yeah, I'm aware that I misspoke in the video. I mentioned it in the description.

[@donipock394]

Watched your KZbin. Going out to bleed my F250 brake system. Placed in front calibers and brake pedal is very weak. Someone suggested that the ABS system could have air in it also. Took negative side of battery and pumped brakes about 50 times to reset it. Planning to start at back left and work back around to left front. We will see.Don

[@petrocksgarage]

It could be air or water anywhere in the system. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it will absorb water from the air over time, which is why you want to flush it every couple years. If you flush & bleed the brakes as shown in this video (so that only clean/clear fluid with no air bubbles is coming out of all of the calipers) it will also bleed out the ABS part of the brake system, which typically lives in or around the master cylinder. Good luck...

[@swingmanic]

I always stretch a piece of rubber over the outside of the plastic pipe with a couple of inches sticking out to put onto the nipple..Plastic tubing whilst good to see the air bubbles, is useless at making a good seal over nipples even when its brand new and flexible...Good video!!

[@petrocksgarage]

Yeah, that would work. Although I have not had a problem with clear vinyl tubing making a seal around the bleeder nipple. The key, IMO, is to get the right size. I think I mention in the video that the more connections you add to the hose (e.g. rubber adapters like yours or hose connectors) the more places there are for air to get in and give you false negatives. If the connection doesn't seal well over the vinyl hose it may allow air into the hose and may give a false negative making it look like you have air in the brake system when you really don't. Thats another reason I prefer to have the vinyl hose attached directly to the nipple. I can see everything and less connections to worry about. But if your method works for you, by all means continue to use it. There is more then one way to skin a cat. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.

[@clanofthecleaved]

Thanks for taking the time to make this. It was super helpful.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@johnterpack3940]

I was looking at the fancy air-powered kits. But this really doesn't look like enough effort to justify the added expense of those things. In fact, this might be better since it's easier to control the vacuum so you don't pull so hard if you don't need to. Thanks for the demo.

[@petrocksgarage]

I'm glad my video helped you out. Thats for watching and commenting, I appreciate it.

[@deanwhitaker7374]

Thank you sir for the information on bleeding your breaks, and cleaning the caps, and things very helpful. I have always had someone help me pump up the breaks and doing it that way but this is very easy with just one person. I'm going to by this tool and do it my self and not ask someone to help me. Thanks again God Bless

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks. I'm glad my video helped you out. Good luck!

[@johnnyjohn8073]

I used to bleed & refill my hydraulic fluids this way with a Mytivac but it just wouldn't work on my 91 4Runner. So I bought the old fashion oil pump metal res jug from Harbor Freight. Instead of sucking the fluid from the bleeder valve on the caliper or clutch, I pumped in the fluids through those fittings. In very few pumps the brake or clutch reservoirs would fill up. Never went back to any other method again. I melted a clear plastic tube tight on the oil pump jug nozzle that was small enough to fit the bleeder valve. I recommend everyone to try this method b4 buying a 40 dollar Mytivac. The oil pump jug is only like 5 dollars. Harbor Freight also sells a blue one too.

[@petrocksgarage]

There is more than one way to skin a cat. Use whatever method you are most comfortable with.

[@jamesfergusson546]

When I first tried this method, I kept seeing bubbles in the fluid no matter how much fluid I pumped from the system. . I thought I was doing something wrong. It turned out to be air leaking in around the outside of the bleeder screw. I saw a recommendation to carefully wrap teflon tape around the threads of the bleeder screw and then screw it back in. This will stop air going leaking in around the bleeder screw and showing up as bubbles, giving you an accurate idea if there is air still in the brake system. It also prevents the bleeder screw from ever binding again.

[@petrocksgarage]

Smearing grease around the base of the bleeder screw, like I show in the video, will do the same thing without the need to completely remove the bleeder screw. Removing the bleeder screw allows brake fluid to spill out onto your caliper and potentially on your brake pads which is a bad thing. If any covers up the hole on the bleeder when you install the bleeder it will clog up the bleeder. And Teflon tape doesn't hold up very well against brake fluid. If any is in contact with brake fluid on the inside of the caliper it will potentially contaminate your brake fluid. Also, for teflon tape to work, you have to reapply it every time you crack the bleeder screw which is a P.I.T.A. in my opinion. But use whatever method works for you.

[@jamesfergusson546]

Thanks for the comments. Because the bleed screw was at the top point of the caliper I did not see much leakage. I did not work on the car again, the crankshaft broke making it a write off. I have no idea of the long term effects of brake fluid on teflon tape.

[@gregvarela5244]

thank you thank you and thank you!! I have been trying to work on my car to save me money in the long run and this is very helpful!!!

[@petrocksgarage]

No problem. I'm glad my videos are helping you out.

[@soilmanted]

Great description of how to do the job with real-world information that would be hard to find elsewhere. One correction though, I think its Vinyl tubing your are using, not nylon tubing. I also sometimes refer to vinyl tubing as nylon too. Not sure why. I never mistakenly call either vinyl or nylon "mylar" - which also sounds similar. I have been thinking of using the check-valve-in-the-middle-of-the-hose one-man bleeding method. Even cheaper than than the cheap vaccum hose and vacuum-sealed jar setup described here. Grease on the bleeder screw threads is a great idea. I was thinking of just turning the valve out 1/4 turn and then wrapping teflon tap around the thread area, but grease may be even better - as long as it doesn't get drawn into the system which it shouldn't - too thick to get drawn in past the threads.

[@petrocksgarage]

Yeah, you are right about the hose. It is Vinyl. Nylon is too stiff. The check-valve idea might work, but it depends on the valve you use and the rest of the config. As for the teflon tape around the threads, I don't think wrapping it around the outside of the bleeder will work for various reasons. Air typically gets in at the base of the bleeder screw, where teflon tape would have a hard time getting into. Teflon tape isn't really a sealant. You don't have to worry about chassis grease getting into the system. You are right, it is too thick and also the vacuum pressure is way too low, to suck it in through the bleeder threads.

[@petrocksgarage]

I was thinking about this set up a little and it may not be that much easier. You still need another person (or video camera set up) to monitor the hoses etc as you pump the brakes from inside the cab. You need to make sure that air isn't going through the lines, to tell when clean fluid starts going through the hoses, that the system isn't leaking and that the hoses haven't come loose. I'd also be worried about the pressure the brake system applies to set up. The connections would need to be able to handle that pressure. You don't want one of the hoses popping off and spewing brake fluid all over the place. While it seems kind of complicated, it would be pretty cool to watch it in action. Is there a video somewhere of someone doing this?

[@soilmanted]

@@petrocksgarage I had been thinking the same thing - having trouble seeing the bubbles from inside the cab. I seem to remember doing it, many years ago. Maybe I only did the front brakes, where I could see the hoses more easily. Maybe I used a long hose from the bleeder valve to the check valve and routed it to where I could see it more easily. Maybe I place a piece of white cardboard behind the hose so that from a distance I could see the fluid in the hose and the bubbles in the fluid more easily. Maybe I placed a mirror somewhere to make it easier for me to see the hose. I agree it isn't a lot easier. But it is a very simple, and very cheap way to go. KD markets a piece of vinyl tubing about 15 inches long with a cheap, low-pressure, diaphragm-type check valve on one end.They are roughly $10.00 - over priced at that amount but you know that the most likely they chose a check valve that opens with the right amount of pressure and closes when the pressure goes below that amount or when the pressure reverses direction (as the brake pedal comes up). A separate check valve should be less than a dollar and 15 inches of hose should be less than a dollar. You can get almost the identical hose and check valve labeled with other company names. Cal-Van, Lyle, etc. They are at auto parts stores, on Amazon, and on ebay and described as "one-man brake bleeders." I bought one from ebay for $7.00. It probably cost them $4.80 to ship it so I paid them about $3.00 for $2.00 worth of stuff. You can also buy "speed bleeders" to replace the factory bleeder valves on each wheel. They have check valves inside. Higher quality valves. Anyway, with a snug vinyl hose on the bleeder nipple and a snug hose on each end of the proper type of check valve you shouldn't have to worry about the hose falling off anywhere from the fluid pressure if the check valve opens with the correct, low, pressure. Once you see what kind of check valve KD puts in their "one-man brake bleeder" you can buy the check valve separately, somewhere, for $0.75. And buy the hose separately. It only should take a small amount of pressure to open the valve if the valve is chosen correctly. There shouldn't be enough pressure to cause the hose to get pushed off the bleeder valve or the check valve - unless of course you put the check valve in, in the wrong direction.

[@tubularteddy3]

Very Helpful Rock. About to to a stainless steel line upgrade and caliper resto on a 1972 BMW Bavaria. You make it look pretty cut and dry. Hoping I am a good student! I will check out your other vids. THANKS!

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I'm glad my videos helped you out. Good luck.

[@beast-plantsfulgham3896]

Nice video. I've used the same method on everything from car hauling trailers to pick ups and small cars. Works great!

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks. I'll add motorcycles & go-carts to your list. :-)

[@abhavananda666]

Nice video. You could, of course, also use the vacuum pump to empty the reservoir if you don't have a turkey baster handy.

[@petrocksgarage]

Yeah, that would work too. Good idea. Thanks for watching & commenting...

[@greg6107]

Excellent step by step while explaining everything so clearly !!

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@ralphwaters8905]

I love my MityVac and use it a lot BUT I don't use it for vacuum bleeding anymore. I had too many problems sucking air past the rubber cups into the wheel cylinders on drum brakes. When it occurs you can't be sure if the air bubbles you see in the drain line are from benign air leaks past the bleeder screw threads or serious ones past the rubber piston cups. I have sealed the bleeder with grease and still got lots of air bubbles past those piston cups and into the wheel cylinder. This is not such a problem with 4-wheel disc brakes due to the seal design, but it's still possible to suck air past the first cup in the master cylinder in some vehicles, and this creates a real nightmare. I've finally settled on gentle pressure bleeding as my 1-stop method that works for every car, every time. For cars like the ZX2 with a plastic reservoir, I have an aluminum plug with a small hose barb and an O-ring seal that fits the MC filler neck. A special C-type clamp to the bottom of the MC holds it under pressure. I can then push fluid with up to 4-5 PSI and of course have to refill the MC often. For me, this has been the only way that works every time. As physicians pledge, "First, do no harm." Easier said than done in medicine, and auto repair too.

[@petrocksgarage]

If air was getting in through the wheel cylinder seals then the wheel cylinder is bad. Pressing the brake pedal applies WAY more pressure to the wheel cylinder seals than this little hand vacuum pump ever could. So if air is getting in through the seals when you apply 10 inHg then brake fluid is getting out through the same seals when you apply the brakes (with 300-500 PSI). Those seals are not directional, btw. Your method to push the fluid down through the system from the reservoir, however, is perfectly valid. The key is having a cap that will fit/seal the reservoir top. If it works for you, by all means continue to use it. There is more than one way to skin a cat. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.

[@ralphwaters8905]

@@petrocksgarage We may have to agree to disagree about whether wheel cylinder cups are designed to seal only pressure and not vacuum. I'll just say that I've had problems here more than once. Perhaps we CAN agree on how awful Ford's clutch master cylinder design is (if you have a manual tranny). They put the outlet on the BOTTOM so the only decent way to bleed it is on the bench (inverted)! I never could get much air back up the hose and into the reservoir. One other FYI thing about that hose: Normal vacuum or fuel line hose can't handle brake fluid for long, so you need a special EPDM hose. Tygon is used for this on motorcycles but can't take the underhood temps. So... if you replace the clutch MC, be sure to get one that comes WITH this short hose cuz it's really hard to find on its own. Be well!

[@nowthatsfunny1]

I'm doing my brakes tonight because I put new front calipers on and all I keep seeing is tons of air bubbles coming out. I'm using the vac pump but I got frustrated and am about to have towed to the shop. I saw your grease trick so in the morning I'll go and try that. I have to bleed the entire system....I really really hope the grease trick works.

[@petrocksgarage]

Good luck!

[@Guillotines_For_Globalists]

I bought one of these Harbor Freight MityVacs and bled the brakes on four vehicles. It really gave my hand a workout. I found that I had to keep pumping continuously. Shortly after I bought one of those Harbor Freight pneumatic bleeders that you connect an airline to. I think next time will be easier!

[@petrocksgarage]

+Blaine Bugaski, if you had to keep pumping continuously then the pump assembly wasn't sealing properly and creating a good vacuum. Take the pump, reservoir & hose assembly and stick your finger over the end of the hose to plug it up. Then pump it up to 15 inHg and see if it holds. If it doesn't hold then there is the assembly. Most likely in a hose connection or possibly internal to the pump. Narrow it down by removing each section of the hose assembly and repeat the test until you get to the pump inlet itself. If it still doesn't hold vacuum when you plug up the pump inlet then there is a leak internal to the pump and it likely needs to be returned.

[@Guillotines_For_Globalists]

Pet Rock's Garage We'll see. Some brake fluid may have made its way inside of the MityVac. I was wondering, I assume the brake fluid is caustic to the rubber seals. Either way it has done its job with the 4 brake flushes. Paid for itself many times over considering it was less than $30. I'll have to check it out. I haven't used it in about 10 months.

[@petrocksgarage]

+Blaine Bugaski, if any brake fluid got into the pump it definitely wont hold a vacuum very well. Brake fluid is caustic to the rubber seals, however, if you carefully take the pump apart and clean it out really well and then re-lubricate the seals with some silicone spray it should be OK. I've gotten fluid in mine a couple times over the years (by mistake of course) and its still running strong.

[@Guillotines_For_Globalists]

Pet Rock's Garage I'll have to disassemble it soon. I put it back in the packaging when I was done with the four cars and wanted to give my hands a rest! It did work well, though. Better brake flush than any of your usual big name shops will do.

[@petrocksgarage]

Blaine Bugaski, yeah, I’ve heard stories of shops just sucking out the fluid in the reservoir, and pouring in fresh fluid and calling it done, then charging some outrageous amount as if they actually did do a proper the brake flush. Glad my video helped you out and saved you some $$.

[@mostlymoparih5682]

Great video. This is the best way to bleed brakes especially if you have ABS it really speeds up the process. Only thing I do different than what you did here is I used tie wraps to keep the air from escaping around the bleeder. Enjoyed it. TFS

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. The zip tie trick only helps if the air leak is between the bleeder nipple and the hose. But the most common location for air to get in is at the base of the bleeder, where it screws into the caliper. A zip tie will not help in that case. The grease trick will handle both cases nicely.

[@mostlymoparih5682]

Excellent point. The bubbles cut down to almost nothing when I used the tie but you are Wright write rite right correct the grease kills two2 birds with won stone. Thanks four4 pointing that out.

[@petrocksgarage]

No problem.

[@ChocodileTeeVee]

I like the level of detail. And the grease trick was a nice touch

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

[@x-man5056]

I had one of those things. Not well built. Little receiving bottle that comes with it way to small for most bleed jobs. Fail. But it does work. If you have an air compressor just buy the vacuum bleeder from harbor freight. It's not much more money and much easier/better.

[@petrocksgarage]

Yeah, the bottle is a little small. But it is usable. Use whatever technique/tool floats your boat.

[@IHC1965]

Great video. I learned something valuable with this video. The grease tip works great.

[@petrocksgarage]

Thanks a lot. I'm glad my video helped you out.

[@w00derice]

Awesome, planning on using my mityvac after replacing a caliper on my car soon. Replaced my rotors and pads, and come to discover a day after bedding in the brakes, a caliper is sticking...

[@petrocksgarage]

Ouch, good luck.

[@w00derice]

@@petrocksgarage Got it! Yep, was a sticking caliper. Ended up replacing the hose and caliper. Mityvac ftw. :)

[@petrocksgarage]

@@w00derice , glad to hear you got it sorted out.