How To Remix Thingiverse Things Using Tinkercad, When Screws Don't Fit

[@BV3D]

*FROM NOW ON* if you want to make _any_ sort of comment about how a drill should have been used, you have to sign a document indicating you have watched the video from the 11:50 point through the 16:00 point, and that you've read the fifty OTHER comments all saying the same thing, AND in your comment, you have to tell me how you would've drilled a hexagonally-shaped hole. 😉 Sincerely, the management.

[@odeball22]

Also, you could try change how your cura slices, middle to what ever that might help with out a remix.

[@ReallyHateBadVideos]

@@JMiller I am sure BV3D would be quite happy to know that ignorant people like you don't watch his videos, what an unpleasant individual you are ;-{

[@Pdunns3D]

I accidentally posted My comment that was about my own bad habit of drilling out holes before i saw this😂

[@georgesmith2827]

Nice one Brian 😂

[@heyitsdrew]

instead of copying that nut and grouping it together for a "channel", @14:30, wouldn't it just be easier copy it once then drag/stretch the nut out? of course copy it once otherwise you'll deform the end that matters. then pull the copy using the black drag box in the middle.

[@hangtight71]

Hi, I'm the designer. I'm sorry you had problems with this duct . I've just been and checked the CAD file and I made a mistake. Somehow I sized those holes at 2.4mm rather than the required 3.2mm for the M3 screws. This is a remix of one of my existing designs, and while I generally test print all my designs this one seems to have slipped through the net. The part it's derived from prints fine with the correct sized holes. The STLs will be modified as soon as I can. Apologies if you reached out to me on Thingiverse and I didn't respond.

[@hangtight71]

The files have now been altered. I hope you get good results with the part cooling.

[@BV3D]

Hi! Thanks so much for fixing the files! I've pinned your comment to the top, and I've made a note in the description to indicate the files have been fixed. YOU ARE AWESOME! 👍

[@jaysonrees738]

I think the most helpful part of this video is the fact that it demonstrates how intuitive TinkerCAD really is. You just add and subtract geometry. That's excellent!

[@BV3D]

Thanks, Jayson -- Glad you enjoyed it!

[@jaysonrees738]

@@BV3D Thank you as well. I might be able to do some custom parts for my RC aircraft now!

[@mitchthepreacher1512]

Tremendous tutorial, I love when a creator shows real world applications rather than regurgitating tutorials in the existing software.

[@jordancruz7665]

This was a massively helpful video for tinkercad and remixing existing things. Thanks a ton for walking through the whole thing and keeping it short, but easy to understand for a beginner in CAD

[@jayf110]

You missed the dad joke opportunity! ...walking through the HOLE thing...

[@tur0koftheboldones39]

I am new to 3D printing and found this video really helpful in learning how to remix models in Tinkercad. Thank you.

[@BV3D]

You're quite welcome! I'm glad you enjoyed it.

[@davidsowder1383]

I'm a beginner in printing 3D and want to learn how to do my own modeling. Like your tutorial. You made it easy enough so I don't feel to intimated to lean. Thanks

[@leo3times]

Found you while trying to learn how to modify a file. I'm new to this, so your video was very helpful. Just read the comments from the original designer, and if he hadn't made an error on the file, I would have never watched this video. 😆 Thanks for the content.

[@nmulcahy27]

I'm pretty new to Tinkercad and this video taught me more in a few minutes than I've learned on my own in a few weeks of trial and error. Things like aligning centers is going to save me a bunch of time as is the orthographic view and transparency. I've actually turned entire models into holes to see the inside but it doesn't work nearly as good as transparency! +1 sub!

[@BV3D]

I'm glad this helped!

[@TootEmCarMan]

I use tinkercad a lot for designing and remixing and I lerned some very useful tips from this vid. Great stuff. :) I'd like to add a little tip of my own if I may. Rather than rotate objects 180 degrees I like to use the Mirror tool (M key). With the object you want to rotate hit the Morror tool and arrows appear around it. You can hover over the arrows to see a preview of how your object will look then you just click on the arrow you want. This tool is very useful for rotating 180 as well as mirroring to creat e left and right handed versions of an object as an example.

[@Platoface]

Thank you for some good Tinkercad lessons.

[@Borg_ki]

I watched this video to understand how to add remixes to tingeverse. But I saw something much more useful at 10:11 I always resized manually by changing the position, now this crutch is no longer needed. thank you very much!

[@ethansdad3d]

Thanks. I learned a few new things about Tinkercad. I tested recent versions of Cura, Slic3r PE, and IdeaMaker, and they all adjust the perimeter of the hole based on the extrusion width by default. I think that the original holes were too small at 3.1mm and should be enlarged, but it probably wasn't your slicer's fault. :)

[@BV3D]

That's interesting. I'll have to give that a test, too! Thanks! 👍

[@spikekent]

Great video Bryan. Completely agree with you on licensing, I always respect the original designers wishes, even credit even if it's not required. I've only ever sold one model that I found online, I emailed the original designer to ask permission first and also sent him an agreed portion of the price. For me it's the right thing to do.

[@BV3D]

Hi Spike! I'm with you on asking permission and agreeing on profit sharing. That's a great idea. 👍

[@jedovtqy4533]

Great watch, I'm in my 50s now and had a stroke so couldn't take it all in but will watch it a few more times or during doing a remix, very talented and informative, thanks

[@bobboyett3142]

This video covers so many points it could be a class all its own. I had no idea about sizing the hole. I would have found out the hard way, after I printed a 5 hour project. I have gone back and remixed what I had and am now ready to print. Thanks.

[@pieyed1302]

Just happened to run across this video which happened to pop up after watching a different video. I have been trying to figure out how to convert an .stl file to something I can edit in FreeCAD. You just made that whole process a waste of time for 99% of the file changes I usually make!! How simple (now that you have throughly explained the process) it is using TinkerCAD. Thanks for the excellent explanation! Best wishes, PiEyed.

[@magoichiguns]

3D Printer Dad taught me something new today. Thanks CAD dad.

[@pipodeclown3782]

But......to be honest.....in the beginning of the video everybody the only thing you think about is a drill. After watching the whole video you know why you printed it again. PS: learned some new tricks with Tinkercad thanks for that!

[@langrock74]

Didn’t know about the F key or the T key shortcuts and I’ve been using Tinkercad for a while now. Thanks for pointing these out.

[@myklgreene]

Very cool. I've been designing in TC for years. I learned 3 new functions! F key Hide & using the Orthoview .... thank you.

[@oleurgast730]

Thanks for the very helpfull video. I used prusa slicer to do modifications before, but thats more complicated and you can not export the result in stl but in amf only. So not so easy to share. You are totaly right about the CC no modifications licence do not fit technical parts. In many countrys it is simply invalid for technical parts anyways, because the creator of an technical object owns no "copyright" so he can not give a licence. For example in germany you have to devide precise into an "artwork" (books, songs, videos, pictures, paintings, statues etc.) where you are the owner of a copyright (german:"Urheberrecht") "automaticly" on one side and "technical solutions" on the other side. For technical solitions there are patents, design protection and some commercal laws. All applying only for commercial use - and the first two only if you register your design (and get the protection granted). If you do not have patented or design protected you technical construction, you can simply not restrict any private user in modyfiying and sharing. Only if he makes money using your work, he have the right to claim part of it. Actually this was a problem in the late 1970s and early 1980s with the home computers and comercial software for them. Games where "Art" - but text editors? Even the operating system? Actually Windows 3.11 did not fall under "Urheberrecht" by its core functions but by courts declarying the Graphical user interface not been fully following function but contaning elements of art... Of course, law was changed to get sowfware protected against copys afterwarts - but technical constructs are not. So in germany it would be legal to change and publish the changed technical object. Which is the case in many other countrys also. But of course there is a much nicer way if the creator of an object has used the no-remix licence: Simply contact him and tell him the problem (and the solution) and ask him to publish the modification with his thing-files or allow you individualy to publish a remix. Such a licence is not written in stone, the autor can of course grant you more rights if you ask politly. It is even the best solution if he generally allows remixes, if you only solve some errors by the remix - as people may see his design first and might dislike it. So it is always better the original designer publishes the corrected thing than having a problematical thing and a corrected thing side by side on thingiverse (and if someone donates, also the original creator did the main work and should own it). Publishing as another thing should be done only, if it adds something new (for example remix a carriage for the prusa extruder in the bondtech version with a carriage for linear rails on the Ender 3 to get a mount for the mk3s Bondtech extruder (or it variant MZ76v2 from Thingiverse) on an Ender 3 with linear rail on x (not an randomly example - I made such an adapter, but in Prusa slicer, so I might redo it as you described in your video to publish it on thingiverse). In my opinion the MZ76v2 Extruder is one of the best upgrades for most cartesian FDM mashines - and it is availabe for v6 and Mosquito hotend. Only the Hemera might be sligtly better).

[@BV3D]

Hi! Thanks for that informative and well-thought-out comment. Very interesting about copyright law in Germany, and how it's split along artistic and technical lines. And I think the suggestion to work things out with the original designer of a part is a good one. 👍

[@bobbyboy1962]

just started using tinkercad from using sketchup. GREAT video tutorial, haven't looked at your other videos yet but I sure will be, very well done vid, thanks, Bob

[@melcrose]

Dang. I'm a sketchup guy but needed to edit a part and wondered if tinkercad could be used. I HATED tinkercad because (compared to sketchup) it seemed incredibly limited. In one short video you showed me how big of an idiot I am, and in what ways. :) NICE VID DUDE!

[@TD3DMakes]

Great stuff Bryan. As always your tinkercad tutorials are super easy to follow. Excellent explanation on the license types as well. Thanks for sharing!

[@BV3D]

Hi Thierry! Thanks a bunch -- I do try to make these easy, and sprinkle in a few keyboard shortcuts here and there. 😉 Some day I'll end up in Fusion 360, but today is not that day.

[@greature]

Actually any modern slicer will offset toolpath half the nozzle width. It is true that adding about nozzle width to hole diameter will get hole size close to desired diameter but its not for the reasons explained in the video. All depends on used speeds and plastics etc.

[@lindeleasley]

Thanks Bryan, you taught me quite a bit about TinkerCad.

[@pilotwarezhk]

in ideamaker, there's a setting called "XY Size Compensation for Holes", after tuning in the parameter for this, I no longer need to calculate how much I need to make it larger for whatever diameter of the holes.

[@microtek9912]

Thanks Bryan, another fantastic video with clear concise steps that solve a real world problem that we have all faced.

[@BV3D]

Hi Jeff! Thanks for watching, and I'm glad you enjoyed the video! 👍

[@gizmobowen]

Great video. I know the answer is Fusion 360, but I sure wish the alignment tool in Tinkercad would allow you to select a feature on a part. I agree that it's ok to eyeball something but having a way to align things perfectly would be so much nicer.

[@BV3D]

The ability to align on a specific feature would be great, but Tinkercad leaves us having to nudge with the arrow keys. 😬

[@timstewart5841]

@@BV3D you can align features perfectly by changing your workplane and hitting the d key to drop it to the feature you want to group it with there will now be no space between them...

[@snew61]

Great tutorial fir remixing STLs in Tinkercad. Thanks for your clear explanation!

[@slicedpage]

Thank you for the upload and for sharing the tinkercad shortcuts they have saved me so much time.

[@BV3D]

Awesome! Thanks for commenting! 👍

[@Turbo7968]

Wow, can't believe how much I just learned from you. Thanks Brian.

[@BV3D]

Thanks, Eddie! I'm glad this was helpful! 👍

[@meisievannancy]

Thanks. Never considered tinkercad as usually design via openscad or freecad. But the remix option in tinkercad looks really useful for STL files. Will give it a try.

[@Z32orDIe]

Excellent info! Thank you. Been finding with all the free files. This is far too common of an issue to be solved 🙌🤘

[@brandoneich2412]

I'm so glad youtube recommended this video!!! Thanks!! You found yourself a new subscriber! :D

[@alexd1759]

I will mention using a drill to size the holes correctly because there is a special case where this is the only way to get the hole and the fitting part sized correctly. That is very small holes in very small 3D-printed parts. In my case, a 2mm diameter rod 5mm long that slides in a hole in a curved part approximately 5mm square and 3 mm thick. At this scale, 0.1mm is 5% of the width of the hole and the rod, it is unreasonable to expect any 3D printer to print very small parts precisely. My solution was to print each of the parts on the end of a larger rod that I could hold in my lathe so they could be finished to the correct size quickly and precisely, then parted off the mandrel. Finishing these 2 small parts in the lathe took less than 5 minutes and made it possible to repair a $5000 instrument when no OEM parts were available. The big problem with fixing holes with any hand-held tool is keeping the holes round, aligned, and centered correctly. And Yes, I read the comments and I found your video to be very helpful, thank you for taking the time to present your fixing holes solution.

[@baodybag]

Nice info all around! just got a 3d printer and although i worked in the automotive industry from which i worked with blueprints and knew what CAD was, sadly i never learned to use it and design/modify parts. The bit with how you need to add the nozzle diameter to the size of your hole to get the actual size you need was worth it alone. Although i SHOULD have realized this from my past experience it was a while back so im rusty. \ Thanks for the information!

[@jmr]

Explains an issue I was having. I accidentally selected a part before I exported and then scratched my head when the whole thing didn't come out. lol

[@sald2of6]

Thank you Brian for this great easy to follow tutorial on using TinkerCad to solve a problem. I learned so much. Great job!

[@krakencoffeeroasters3727]

Love your t-shirt! If you like coffee, I should send you a package of my Toque de Cacao -a Honduras bean that tastes very chocolatey as an espresso (or even when it cools as a drip/pourover)! This was a GREAT video. I’m new to TinkerCAD but took 4 years of drafting back in the pre-computer days of the mid-70s. Thanks for all of the great info & tips! I will definitely check out your other content.

[@MAGA_Patriot2024]

Hi Bryan! No, this isn't a hexagonal drill question lol! Rather, I have something very odd going on when I remix with Tinkercad. I wanted to remix a clip that snaps onto the rear of a pi400 so you can add a monitor. I made my adjustments & exported the stl. I brought it up in Cura to slice, and the changes were still there. After slicing, I tried printing it. It prints the piece I merged, then tries to print the original model, but at that point the nozzle is already at 0.5mm above the bed (0.3mm first layer with 0.2mm layer height), so the rest of the print is stringing our merrily....nowhere near the bed. I've tried Tinkering other models, and it happens every time - the first layer of the addition is printed instead of the entire outline. Now, I've made sure my parts are joined & nothing is above or below the workplate. Any ideas on what's wrong? Thanks!

[@michbushi]

depending on the accuracy level required, you can try to lower the entire thing in Cura one-two layers below the printing surface before slicing, and try that. Probably not that good for mechanisms requiring tolerances, but for other things can be all you need (figures, etc.)

[@TMan4775]

Wow, Thank you so much for making this Bryan. I didn't know TinkerCAD could do that!

[@BV3D]

Hi Tom! I'm glad you liked it. Tinkercad's fun to play with, and I'm always learning something new about it, too! 😃

[@davidolson7575]

Very nicely done Brian, I don’t favor tinkercad very many things but this item that you did and for applying texture to the surface It is pretty fantastic

[@BV3D]

Hi David! I know a lot of people like Fusion 360, but for me, the learning curve is kind of steep. So for these quick fixes, Tinkercad is my go-to tool. 👍

[@1kokkerrot]

Oh how I wish I found your video ages ago I would have saved so much time,I never knew you could hide a part with the bulb icon,what a pain I've been going through. Lol thanks alot definitely deserve a sub from me

[@BV3D]

Glad I could help, and thanks for watching and subscribing! 👍

[@wagz977]

Thanks for making this, Bryan. Very clear, and answered some questions I had about using Tinkercad.

[@BV3D]

Hi Matt! Thanks, I'm glad this was useful to you! 👍

[@MaltWhiskey]

You can also use horizontal expansion for holes only in cura 4.6.1. No need to remix anything to make bigger or smaller holes...

[@JAYTEEAU]

Excellent work Bryan. Yes, I am Super Awesome and appreciate your appreciation of my Super Awesomeness. Nice sticker too ;) Cheers, JAYTEE

[@BV3D]

Haha! Thank you, JAYTEE. Your visage smiles down upon all my projects. 😀

[@JAYTEEAU]

@@BV3D 😂

[@charliebowen4232]

Hello Bryan, Great video!! I am starting to use TinkerCAD more and more!! Thank you for the tip on transparency with the T key... I did not know about that!! Have a great day!!

[@CoreyStup]

Great tutorial on TinkerCad! Thanks for the content!

[@Firebirddna]

This was really great. Thanks for doing this series.

[@AnthonyVella]

It’d be nice if tinkercad made holes for common screws based on the user’s nozzle size.

[@johnmckay4342]

Thanks Bryan for another very informative video.

[@BenEBrady]

Great video Bryan. Interesting Tinkercad tutorial

[@BV3D]

Hi Ben! Thanks! 😀

[@davidolson7575]

Thanks Brian, I didn’t know about the T button in tinkercad. Thanks

[@suivzmoi]

i didn't know tinkercad was this powerful and easy to use. thank's for making this tutorial. I've never had to add a nozzle diam + x for tolerances though, seems pretty huge. I'm curious if this is normal.

[@mudbrats]

Great video! I am just about to get my first 3ad Printer and love tinkercad!

[@nuroo1]

Excellent video. I appreciate the walkthrough.

[@BV3D]

Hi Nuroo! Thanks! 👍

[@jefferylake6690]

Bryan, the only thing I would have mentioned is that tinkercad won’t import a file size over 25mb. But that shouldn’t be an issue if used for what you demonstrated it to be used for.

[@kenlipper874]

I love TinkerCad! Thanks for the pro tips!

[@BV3D]

Hi Ken, I'm glad you liked them! 😀

[@esenterre]

Awesome video! I'm glad KZbin suggested it to me! :) New subscriber! Your teaching skills are really good! I really enjoyed watching your video! Thanks alot!

[@BV3D]

Awesome! Thank you! 😊

[@mohammadalaaelghamry8010]

Great video, I had a lot of benefit, thank you Bryan.

[@jikosauce]

Thanks! I was confused on what it could do

[@ilankatz549]

AWESOME VIDEO! Wish i saw it a month ago, would have saved me so much time and frustration lol

[@hackish1]

Thanks for the clear details on how to use tinkercad. I don't agree with your methodology. Design the part in CAD and include the required clearances. Making adjustments to the CAM is the correct way to achieve the desired dimensions, not altering the model to achieve a result that wasn't modelled. This way, you maintain a machine agnostic model that represents the desired end product. With subtractive machining, operators apply thermal adjustments, tool wear and backlash compensation to account for machine specific settings. Any QC processes are setup to ensure the finished product matches the design. The 3d printer CAM (aka slicers) have similar adjustments. With this, you never need to remix a properly designed model even if you change printers, filament or extruder sizes. Hope that helps

[@danielcrandell7533]

What program? That doesent costs a hobbiest like me and arm and leg?

[@billysgeo]

10:17 That doesn't look very centered. Can't you now center/align the cutting-hole center with the hole geometry on the part directly?

[@ericray7173]

It’s funny because I understand you, but this gets really funny if you imagine you had no idea about 3D printing and stumbled onto this. It would sound like Star Trek Technobabble lol

[@VARocketry]

Question Bryan: If you want to significantly changing the size of a STL design found on Thingiverse, how do you preserve the size of hinges and latches? I found a Pelican case design on thingiverse that is huge (525mmx432mmx165mm) and my desired size size is 160mmx125mmx 45mm). If I drag the entire model to the smaller size, doesn't that collapse the hinges and latch connections also? What's the best way to achieve a working but smaller size case?

[@Logroosee]

With the ptfe tube on the sovol, have you had issues printing other materials? I’m thinking of printing ninja flex, abs, and pla and maybe in the future other materials.

[@BV3D]

I've had issues with the temperatures associated with PETG. Printing at 245˚C for a couple of days was enough to cook the end of the tube. Any filament which prints at or below about 230˚C should be OK. For flexible filaments, you should make sure the guide tube (between the extruder gears and the top of the heat sink) has a PTFE liner. From the factory, mine did not, and so the flexible filament was able to bunch up inside the guide tube. 😬

[@unacceptableknottyprofesso7782]

I use tinkercad all the time including remixing stuff from Thingiverse. The only issue with tinkercad is the limitations placed on file size, stl size, and number of triangles used to create the object.

[@Techniclay]

Buddy Thanks for the well-made video!!

[@jiphulsman274]

i am in the proces of making a baseball bat, its from printables not my own. i split the bat in orca slicer in 5 pieces(cause that was a simple 5 second task) now to modify to put dowels in between each section i opted for tinkercad(making the dowel was easy) but when i import al 5 pieces are considered 1 piece , i cant for the live of me split or separate them as individual pieces. is there a way?

[@bh-db2rp]

Hi, This video gives a lot of good tips on tinkercad. By the way I was trying to make a screw but did not find the appropriate model to start with. Do you have an example of how to model a screw with Tinkercad? Thanks

[@mlubecke]

Another awesome video. Thank you so much for sharing!

[@BV3D]

Thanks! I'm glad you liked it! 👍

[@coreymac2381]

Another excellent video! Thanks for sharing.

[@BV3D]

Hi Corey Mac! Thanks! 🙂

[@avejst]

Great walkthrough Thanks for sharing👍😀

[@BV3D]

Thank you, Asger! 😃

[@tomholman9672]

Hi, I am brand new to 3D printing, my son gave me a CR-10 3D printer that he had picked up. One thing I have tried to do using TinkerCad was to print a bolt and nut that would fit together. However, TinkerCad is limited in capability so I am unable to make a bolt or nut from scratch. I have tried to find a sample that I could modify so they would fit together but have had no luck. Any suggestions? This is just a hobby, and since I am retired I don't really have the money to spend on a more expensive CAD system.

[@Edman_79]

Thank you! This was quite helpful.

[@400AGLNET]

Hello Sir, I'm happy to see that you know your way around Tinkercad really well. Perhaps you can help me with a file that I've designed. It's a set of headers for a V8 Motor and I made it out of sever cylinders and torus bits, But my parts don't exactly line up smoothly with the exact shape etc. So my model looks like headers that were put together with many parts and don't flow seamlessly from one part to the next. If this makes enough sense that you understand what I mean it would be awesome if you can provide some guidance on how to solve my problem. I'd be happy to show you a screen shot photo of my current "glob" and a photo some something that looks like what I want to create. Thanks so much if you're able to help or advise.

[@BuzzingGoober]

Does this video address when you import a thingiverse design and it imports mildly messed up? For instance, the surface might have some artifacts, etc? I often have that issue when I want to modify things from thingiverse.

[@maxreynolds679]

Thanks Bryan, great video

[@BV3D]

Hi Max! Thanks! 😃

[@Guffy1990]

T...TinkerCAD imports .stl's better than Fusion360?? And is owned by the same people?? What do I do with all this power...? Eh, probably something dumb, and something strange.

[@davidboop3550]

Can you make a tinkercad series. Showing beginner tips all the way to advanced?

[@LWJCarroll]

Thanks that was very informative, but was it an stl file type? Laurie

[@BV3D]

Hi Laurie! Yes, both of the parts I imported into Tinkercad were STL files. And that's what I exported them as, too! 😃

[@dancampbell1977]

Really dig your video. Thanks for sharing

[@adamflight1]

AMAZING TUTORIAL!!!

[@MyAMJourney]

Super helpful tip. Great video

[@olm911]

Thanks, that was a most helpful video!

[@BV3D]

Glad to hear it! 😃

[@richardhorree582]

As always a very informatieve video thanks

[@BV3D]

Thank you, Richard! 😄

[@heyitsdrew]

don't forget you can SAVE your designs and use them later like the Basic Shapes to the right. it's very cool, so don't forget to learn how to create a template like that.

[@RanchoTexano]

So useful! Thank you!

[@edgiefive1317]

super helpful, thank you 🙂

[@haydenc2742]

Great howto!!!!

[@tomyoung2519]

Awesome job on the video!

[@vishu996]

Very informative, thanks.

[@MrKuztumpainterz]

Great video!!! Thank you so much

[@jonathanballoch]

Great vid. Why in the world is TinkerCAD so much easier than OnShape/FreeCAD/Fusion360 at remixing STLs???

[@Sergiodj453]

Nice!!!!! Thanks Bryan!

[@BV3D]

Thanks, Sergio! 😊

[@Pdunns3D]

I have a bad habit of just drilling out wrong sized holes the next size up😂 i just made my first model and im really wanting to get better and actually be decent someday hopefully so ill be practicing

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

I've run into the no remix issue before. The thing creator messed up in a couple ways and I was able to fix it. If nothing else, ask if you can post the fix in the comments as an attachment.

[@BV3D]

That's not a bad idea. 👍