How to Remove and Install Bottom Brackets - Cup & Cone

[@rachelcuddy8020]

i just want to throw it out there that your videos have consistently given me exactly the information I required each time I had a question. At this point I go directly to your channel with my repair inquiries.

[@vintagear1269]

These videos set the standard for clarity, comprehensive coverage and professional production. Many thanks.

[@alexanderbobrovitskiy956]

This man is a super professional! It is pleasure to watch how he operates. Thank you!

[@ecstazyrm]

He is the ducks guts

[@SuessSauerSossen]

I was complaining about some noise my bottom bracket was doing for almost a year. I respected the takeout so much, i didnt even try to do anything. This Video was an awesome guide and after just deinstalling, good cleaning and installing, the noise was gone!!! Im so proud of myself having this experience and was able to learn how to adjust bearings... was real fun! Big thank you :)

[@gravityalwayswins1434]

These Park tool vids with master mechanic Calvin, are clear, concise, and thorough. No cussing, no juvenile antics, no lousy music, no drama. Good lighting, close ups and a stable camera. Bike mechanic vids just don't get any better than these from Park tool. Thanks Calvin and Park tool!

[@kswsquared]

I appreciate the lack of standard snobbery. Cup and cone gets the same treatment as ceramic bearings.

[@rogeliopitti7120]

This man need to be presserved....His knowledge is a treasury....

[@neilbcooper]

Very useful and detailed video, without superflous commentary, to show how to install and adjust cup type bottom bracket bearings

[@johnjerizlopezignacio3891]

I always insert park tool in the search bar if ever they had a service video about certain bike parts. Very well explained.🙌🏼

[@Tailspin80]

3:30 The HCW-4 tool is quite expensive (£38) but I managed to unscrew the bearing with a large pipe wrench, gripping the two flats. I also had to heat the whole thing with a blow torch and even then it was very stiff, tightening up each time it cooled. It can be done though if all you want to do is bin the old bearing and fit a modern sealed cartridge. Great video, particularly the details of it being a left hand thread.

[@isaaczapata2764]

As a beginner mechanic owe so much to Park and Calvin.

[@imbrah2925]

Calvin and Truman are very knowledgable. AWESOME videos!!!!!! Thank you!

[@k2024-b8n]

very clearly explained, well done, you have saved me a lot of hassle.

[@zipfotoproductions2934]

I think I severely underestimated how much grease I need.

[@BUSTRCHERRI]

I just use spit.

[@brunodenyu]

me too 🤣

[@labpartnerlp]

A major reason is that these cup and cone bearings don't have internal seals and if they even have external seals they are very loose seals, so extra grease is needed to help keep water out. Sealed cartridge bearings range from 30% to 70% packed depending on the rider's use case.

[@Rearmostbean]

The standard for how to videos You are the best

[@GooseBKing]

Thank you again Calvin. I heard about this channel through ABI and Jenny Kallista! She rules! You rule!

[@Greenjuiceman]

thank you - very helpful - I still think that a cup and cone bearing which is in good condition feels better to ride than any of the modern stuff - probably because of the 1/4" ball bearings - I prefer loose balls as you can get 11 in - the cages normally have 9 or sometimes even 7 which puts more load on them - of course they do need regular maintenance especially in wet and dirty condition but if you do strip, clean and regrease often they are fantastic!!

[@mikeboston421]

and who wants to strip, clean and regrease often???

[@ezatialfred7084]

I love what I am watching This information is very useful to me here in Dubai because i repair my bicycle myself Thank you very much

[@kevinpierce2537]

such a good video. Production team and the mechanic are masterful

[@ed0078]

Good job. A lot of time went into making this

[@aaronellsworth4575]

This video is just what I needed! I knew my bottom bracket had developed a lot of play and needed rebuilding. I especially appreciated the advice on when to replace the parts.

[@1vedantaman]

If you don’t have a headset press just use a bolt with big fender washers to keep the cup wrench on the cup

[@philinspain65]

Completely demystified the process. Fantastic.

[@robertroosa285]

Fantastic video. Professional quality. I'll always buy Park Tools as a thank you for these videos.

[@BigBeezyBtown]

"Cover with more grease," is my new catch phrase.

[@AdrianGonzalez-ii7jb]

Amazing quality of your tutorials, you really are professionals

[@mattgies]

Thanks for the tip about using the headset press to hold the wrench in place. I'd heard that one a while ago but forgot until I saw this video yesterday, and it came in handy today when I had to remove an approximately 45-year old fixed cup.

[@ch33zer]

If you don't have a headset press a bolt with some large washers and a nut will work just fine too.

[@kris.monroe]

Timeless helpful videos!

[@nonstopstarter99]

Calvin Jones is my hero

[@reynoldeuler9802]

Thank you very much for this video. I will buy tools from Park Tool.

[@TRipleJP93]

I typically use a small paint brush to apply grease to parts. And you can spin the shaft on the bearing while holding the cup vertical, to see if the surfaces are pitted. Thanks for the video!

[@themostlymikeshow]

Nice explanation Calvin! I'm ordering mine today!

[@theatom7264]

I'm thinking of doing a scratch build from a bare frame(custom beach cruiser) so this has been very informative. Both the bottom bracket and the star nut in the head stock(steering column) I've been the most concerned about installing myself.

[@Alltkringcykling]

Perfect. Just what I wanted. Keep up the good work :-) .

[@aaronhansen706]

Very cool. I got a cheap bike for free for my kid and this looks like a fun winter project instead of sending it to a shop

[@nikkep899]

Thanks man you are a genius this video was inspiaring it helpt me alot. Im ridning a Haro Zimsala Cooper and this was the video that helpt me using the right tools to remove the bottom bracket and more You are än expert

[@yourstruly9340]

Nice video. I had forgotten why i had bought this tool for but now i remember.

[@westvalley411]

Thank you for sharing. Very helpful.

[@jensdanielsen4864]

Been trying to figure this out for a while now, great video!

[@aymanpixel8684]

This is very inspiring God bless you

[@nigeljohnson8022]

Sound advice as usual cheers Calvin

[@michaelciccone5507]

Excellent video! I didn't realize that you had to use that much grease on the BB bearings!

[@labpartnerlp]

A major reason is that these cup and cone bearings don't have internal seals and if they even have external seals they are very loose seals, so extra grease is needed to help keep water out. Sealed cartridge bearings range from 30% to 70% packed depending on the rider's use case.

[@Goenzelsen]

Newbie here. I only realized that there are two different sides when I reinstalled the bb. One side is about 5 mm longer. There are no markings on the axle itself. Is there a way to tell which sides goes where?

[@justjordan8018]

I have successivly almost broken a Park Tool tool and my O shaped cup trying to remove it. I decided it is fine where it is and it will live and die with the Frame :)

[@jeremyemilio9378]

8:22 just a very important note. Ive recently gotten into vintage bikes and most appear like in the video but I've done BBs that sometimes have the bearings flipped. To keep yourself from guessing, just take some pics when you disassemble it

[@benjaminbabaran4037]

I’m your new subscriber,thank you sir for sharing your knowledge.👍

[@samblenkharn8099]

Brilliant video, thankyou.

[@cb5600]

Hey thanks. This advise totally helped me fix my issue with my bike. 👊🏻

[@doylerabjohn3435]

Great instructional video

[@bruce5799]

Excellent I still use old bikes and do my own repairs

[@scootosan]

Good tip on the use of a Bearing Press. I use half the amount of Grease...to each his own.

[@labpartnerlp]

A major reason is that these cup and cone bearings don't have internal seals and if they even have external seals they are very loose seals, so extra grease is needed to help keep water out. Sealed cartridge bearings range from 30% to 70% packed depending on the rider's use case.

[@jasonmorris858]

Yeah, anti-torsion tensioning, an acquired skill and clear illustration about the value of A: getting all of the Children some cheap supermarket bicycles to practice on with B: otherwise inexpensive special tools that usually last years.

[@mstark77]

I wish the some of the components had arrows telling you which way to tighten or loosen, similar to directional tread on tires. It would make my life easier.

[@josephhakim9104]

Super wonderful .thank you for your pro job

[@dastreak2152]

All this videos are awesome, I wonder if I could share them into my page with subs in spanish and french

[@chrisr9572]

Very helpfull. I want to replace my cup and cone with a cartridge, and still use the same crack set. How do I know if it is jis or iso? Maybe am i missing something. I was looking at the shimano un300. Is a 1984 trek 450 series with Sakae Cx cranks. I understand measuring the housing and the spindle length.

[@newboysgeneration6198]

Great video....thanks a lot again

[@vickipps6821]

Thank you it was helpful

[@Phylthya]

Quick question: I'm restoring an old steel mtb with a cup and cone style bottom bracket with caged bearings. one of the bearing cages has completely disintegrated, so I need to replace it. All I can find is cartridge bottom brackets. Problem: The Measurements The old one has a spindle width of 120mm (JIS, shell width 68mm). The options for cartridge bottom brackets are 118mm or 122.5mm The old one has exposed threads and hex nuts that hold the crank arms in place (as opposed to the bolts that go into the spindle of cartridge bearings) Do I go larger or smaller?

[@Cyclewithchirag]

Which lock ring will I have to use with Torue wrench for tightening the BBSet 68 -122.5 MM?

[@paisfr]

Super ! Merci . ) 👍 ✌

[@Daniel-dj7fh]

if im planning to completely replace the spindle and crank, what do i have to look out for

[@Stolesher]

I want to convert from cup&cone to a cartridge spindle. 68mm with 127mm and Italian thread. Am I looking at a straight swap when it comes to dimensions? And also the Italian thread thing is problematic as it is more difficult to find the part, so can you recommend me a part or two I can try to find online?

[@pyrotech8504]

thanks BROTHER!!!

[@alexlarrimer1954]

Great video. Exactly what I needed except I don't know my specific spindle orientation because I didn't take care!

[@luigiprovencher]

What's the latest kind of system that this system can be upgraded to? I'm in the process of converting a 7 speed mountain bike to a single speed and I have to replace the whole drive system and rear wheel because the rear wheel is bent and I can't change the three chain rings to one chain ring because the rings are all riveted on and even if I drilled them out it still won't work.

[@TimeHunter2305]

Are these types of brackets most common on budget bikes?

[@armandomunoz3190]

Awesome thank you

[@beamaybelarmino3437]

Can I change this cup and cone buttom bracket with a hallowtech cranckset?

[@death2pc]

Great presentation. Who catered this film?

[@annabelleminkova1620]

How do you know which way to put the spindle in if one side is longer? I didn't manage to note it when removing.

[@parktool]

Head or Tails. Guess and install. Do not adjust yet. Put on crank and check chainline. If it is rubbing frame, flip the spindle. If the spindle makes the rings stick out too far out, again flip. The middle of the rings should align just to the outside of the middle of the rear sprockets.

[@annabelleminkova1620]

@@parktool Okay, great - will do! Thank you very much for your detailed videos and prompt reply!

[@farikkun1841]

My BB is cup and cone. Non drive side has 26mm bolt, trying to turn it with adjustable wrench, its always slipping cuz the head surface is too thin. The drive side is 36mm round-flat head. My adjustable wrench jaw isnt wide enough, need to buy bigger wrench? Or i have to use tge specific 36mm one?

[@yoyoodc]

great tips

[@5argetech56]

I like to replace with a BBUN26 square taper from shimano.

[@Igoryan19]

You are best!!

[@chriswright9096]

If the ball bearings are loose, what stops them falling into the frame tubes as you extract the spindle? Is that what the plastic guard is for?

[@parktool]

That certainly can happen. Rotate the bike so the bb is the lowest. Then they will not travel down the tubes. The sleeve inside is to keep grit from entering through the tubes into the bearings.

[@thisylvain]

I did this a few weeks ago, and had a lot of difficulty screwing/unscrewing the cups (had to use a mallet almost all the way). Is it really possible to had grease on the treads? Doesn't it prevent "locking" the screw?

[@parktool]

The pre-load or tension in the threads from tightening holds the part secure. Grease permits proper tightening to keep it from loosening. It also helps prevent it from seizing or corroding in place.

[@acostin4004]

A word of warning I had a mountain bike years back unfortunately the 6 pin bottom bracket was starting to get loose from knackered bearings however i couldn't undo it as it was totally seized up tight the 6pins of the bottom bracket tool just sheared off i ended up giving it to the scrap metal guy once their seized its over you will never get it off if you do use plenty of grease when screwing it back on.

[@josegregorioferrerreyes4017]

Is it safe to use the automotive blue threadlocker in aluminum and steel frames?

[@parktool]

Yes it is.

[@frederiktoldevarjrgensen6730]

What tool do you use to check pitting on the spindle?

[@parktool]

Trace the ball path with a ball point pen, or a sharp pic. You can feel any roughness as you pass over it.

[@suvespa]

Gr8! now I have to find another bike so that I can use the tools which I thought was obsolete lol

[@bernice_anders]

I love you guys

[@gorankosutic5743]

Why do you use threadlocker on the drive side and not on the non-drive side?

[@parktool]

The drive is is the "fixed" side, it is not used for a bearing adjustment. If you did use a threadlocker for the non-drive....HURRY! You will need to get it adjusted before it sets up. Then if you wanted to adjust it again any time later, it may prove difficult.

[@gorankosutic5743]

@@parktool Thanks! Makes perfect sense. I did not, so no worries :).

[@luigiprovencher]

Which side does the longer side of the shaft usually go on?

[@parktool]

Commonly the drive side, the right side. There are exceptions, however.

[@michaelh4614]

thanks!

[@kinanhloubi1935]

HELP!! i was just making restoration on my old bicycle and it has Ventura Crank Arm which i want to remove, but the arm doesnt have threads that are fitting for crank puller... what can i do!? :(

[@johnveach3611]

it might be a cottered crankset in which case you can consult this guide www.sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html

[@ramindersingh6972]

I recently just got a brand new MTB, after a couple of months, I noticed that I could feel a side to side movement in my cranks. Any ideas on what I should do?

[@ramindersingh6972]

MRGRUMPY53 idk

[@user-je2yq7ru8w]

@@ramindersingh6972 Is it a retail store bike like Walmart? It's very common for the bottom bracket to simply come loose, yes after just a few weeks, might just need re-tightening.

[@ramindersingh6972]

Peanut i got my bike from a place called halfords(a bike shop in England)

[@user-je2yq7ru8w]

@@ramindersingh6972 They do have some that appear to be square taper cup + cone BBs so that is possible. If so it might be as simple as loosening the lock-ring, tightening the adjustable cup, then re-tightening the lock-ring.

[@ramindersingh6972]

Peanut ok I’ll try that then. Thanks

[@jedaiahkramer1204]

I have a 1995 Race Face threaded BB seized in an aluminum frame. I easily took off the lock rings. The BB requires SPA-1 tool with 6 internal notches. Not internal splines. Not external notches. How can I get enough hold with the SPA-1 tool to remove the seized BB?

[@parktool]

That can be a tough one. Try heating the shell a bit and also removing the drive side first ato allow you to get lubricant into the threads.

[@jedaiahkramer1204]

@@parktool Thanks for the reply! I learn a lot from your channel. I ended up getting it (before seeing your reply). Penetrating oil on exposed threads, positioned SPA-1 in notches, slid a cylinder over BB spindle such that it kept the SPA-1 pins from retracting out of the notches, then a clamp holding the cylinder in place using the far end of BB spindle. Once I got it to break free, it unthreaded easily with the SPA-1 tool alone. I like RaceFace products, but that was a poorly designed BB imo.

[@TivonSanders]

How long do these bottom brackets typically last under moderate bike riding?

[@parktool]

These will last many years if properly greased and adjusted.

[@TivonSanders]

@@parktool Thanks! Love your channel!

[@NeoPayneHK]

thank you

[@JDiaz-ii6dg]

Perfect.

[@jonasschandel4511]

Probably a dumb question. I'm sitting in front of a Kajita 1.37×24T. Can I replace this bottom bracket with a more modern one, which has the same size?

[@parktool]

That has the common English Threading standard. There are many modern options for replace that. It needs to be compatible with the cranks.

[@jonasschandel4511]

@@parktool Thanks for the fast answer. Just wanted to say your videos are awesome

[@noahfontaine7832]

9:00 Isn't that too much grease???

[@parktool]

You want lots of grease in your cup and cone bottom bracket.

[@kevinmonzel]

I've never seen one wear out from too much grease.

[@2darkdragon]

it does look like too much....id maybe use half of that...that is a MOUNTAIN of grease

[@bmthkamel3167]

Next step is to drill an tap a hole for a grease nipple on the bottom !

[@michaelderkinderen2261]

@@2darkdragon yeh way too much additional weight

[@S4R1]

My Panasonic Mountain Cat 6500 has this style

[@Stolesher]

When I tighten the lock ring until there's no play on the spindle, it seems like it's on too tight. The spindle seems like it can't spin freely. But if I put one of the cranks on, it's spinning perfectly. Can somebody explain what is all that about?

[@Stolesher]

Every part is new and greased to the brim btw.

[@parktool]

There are two parts to the adjustment on that bottom bracket. The cup is threaded in or out to contact or press on the bearings. The lockring is tightened to keep it from moving. Only check the adjustment when the ring is tight. The concept is be right on the edge of play, but still feel no knocking as you check a full rotation of the spindle. It is normal to have the cup slightly press against the bearings, which then press against the spindle. This is called "preload" and is needed in machinery. It might feel like drag to your fingers, but to the crank and you pedals it feels like nothing. We need another video just on adjustment only.

[@Stolesher]

@@parktool Thank you very much for fast the answer. I've recently started getting interested in rebuilding this old cheap bicycle I got (built in derailleur hanger) and changed both axles, the bottom bracket, headset and bought several new parts to improve it. Last month I wanted to throw it away, now I can't wait for better weather so I can bed in the new break pads. And I gotta say this inspiration comes from the Berm Peak channel which inevitably brought me to your more detailed and simple instructions. Feels almost like playing with Legos. It looks so simple when you guys show it in your videos, but the deeper you go in, you realize you need some experience and some knowledge. You do mention preload in the video, but I didn't pay much attention to it. I will now! You guys are AWESOME!

[@johnward1191]

With the frame hanging like that non-caged bearings will drop down into the down tube, better to have the frame hanging from the top tube with the bottom bracket at the bottom.

[@chriswright9096]

I was wondering about that. I am about to dismantle my bikes BB and suspect the bearings will be loose.

[@nskmda]

man, i'm desperate. mine has 6 notches and is 30 mm (1 3/16 in) and there seem to be NO tool to remove the 'fixed' side of it... so upsetting... it might need something like BBT-xx but with only 6 prongs.

[@parktool]

Send an image of what you have over to [e-mail] and we will do our best to help identify what tool is needed.

[@ggnatohahaha3783]

why does my crank loosen every time even my bottom bracket is just fine and the nut is not loss thread?

[@parktool]

With square tapered cranks, if the inside square bore of the arm gets mis- shapen then it will always work itself loose. A new arm is needed.

[@ggnatohahaha3783]

@@parktool thank youu so much!!♥️

[@attylaracpa]

What is the difference between SPA-1 SPA-2 Bottom Bracket Pin Spanner? What is the SPA-2?

[@parktool]

The SPA-1 has tips of 2.9mm diameter. The red handled SPA-2 has smaller tips of 2.2mm. It is used for small pin holes of some freewheel, crank bolt retaining rings, and other small holed rings.

[@attylaracpa]

@@parktool Thanks. I am now looking for local seller of SPA-1.

[@briteidea08]

My knockoff return Schwinn from Wal-Mart did not have a sleeve. Noticed a hole that went from the bottom bracket imto the seat post. So after reassembly. I took the seat post out, stuck my grease gun hose down the tube. Pumped as much grease down there as I could. Eventually I'll get around to making a plunger. That way I can just push the grease down. The bike is mostly used around where I work. So I'm not bothered by this hackery.

[@HB-ps6rn]

Seal it off and install a port for a grease gun so you can grease it like a tractor

[@briteidea08]

@@HB-ps6rn Already thought of that. But I'm not putting that much effort into that bike. Easy enough to pull the seat