How to remove Smartcar Starter Motor, スマートカースターターモーター

[@gardner2374]

tank you soo much about the video you help a lot

[@shed52]

It's a big job, and glad you liked the video.

[@jimtilbrook2389]

At 6:44 you remove a hose do you lose any coolant when doing so?

[@shed52]

Yes, I lost about 300ml, not a lot but this did mean I needed to top up the coolant afterwards.

[@Alex-yn4qh]

Hits David, very informative video you made here, can I ask if you needed to lower the engine at all to reach the starter motor, as most methods I’ve found say this has to be done , thanks

[@shed52]

Yes, I did buy some lowering bolts, which made access much easier. (I did the alternator at the same time) Dropping the subframe does mean you can replace the starter fro above. Not cheap £29 I do have a link for them amzn.to/3jgVPm9

[@ilvale6439]

Hi, do you have a video that explain the procedure to drop the cradle? I'm sorry for my lot of questions but you make a very good videos!!

[@almo1202]

Hi David. Hope you're well. Thanks for another detailed video. I'm having my own intermittent issues with the Smart Roadster starter motor - fitted only 2 years ago. It was likely a refurbished unit as the garage was being unhelpful about the make & model they used:( The issue: Using Mr Harrison's guide from Evilution - about every 4 to 5 starts I have to gently knock the the starter motor via the gap in the manifold. It then confidently starts & all is well. If i'm not mistaken knocking releases the stuck solenoid that temporarily fixed the issue? If I were to remove the starter as per your video - quite a task I know - do you think I could do anything on the bench to stop the seizing? This was fitted 'new' in February 2022 - so I had approx 18 months before it happened. Any advice would be much appreciated, Best Regards Almo

[@shed52]

Interesting that this is your second starter motor, I've also had to fit two! Your right tapping does release a struct solenoid. Using drop bolts to lower the subframe is the easiest way to gain access to the starter. The second time I replaced the starter, I also changed the alternator, simply because I could while I had good access.

[@shed52]

Sorry, I also meant to ask if you have checked the condition of your battery?

[@almo1202]

@@shed52 Hi. Yes the battery is good & well maintained with a monitor. I do have a more recent Alternator problem (last two weeks)- only charging sometimes. I wonder if the aforementioned starter motor issue has now caused the alternator to be inconsistent. The Alternator is freely rotating as it should / no slipping. I used a Multimeter of course to test whilst running & some days it doesn't charge at all / reach anywhere near 13.5 (with a fully charged battery) - but yesterday it worked okay. The inconsistent behaviour is a little confusing - I have read that Alternators don't always just die - they can slowly deteriorate. Do you think anything else could be the cause? Thanks again

[@cromgu3664]

Hi Mr David! Thanks for the video.I just replaced starter on my Smart.Finaly car starting normally.It was also challenging work. But in the end I need your help I left my car work on idle for 10 minutes and after that suddenly car turned off.I started car again and car working rough like he is missing air or something something is wrong and I can't figure it out. I have engine fault and unfortunately I don't have diagnostic tool to read the fault. After the car cool down engine working better. do you have any idea what should I check first? Regards!

[@shed52]

Hi, glad to hear you were able to change the starter motor. If you have an engine management light I really would get a cheap diagnostic tool. Here's the one I have amzn.to/4d9tPIp on Amazon. I had a bad idle engine and it was the oxygen sensor, but because there are two I really would recommend getting a diagnostic tool. Could also be a fuel issue like a spark plug. Once you have the engine fault code, let me know and I'll see if I can help.

[@cromgu3664]

Hi , thanks for fast reply! I bought diagnostic tool last night.Code read out says "Throttle pedal position Sensor Switch A Circuit" now car doesn't move and do not accepting any power. I have deleted the fault code and removed throttle boody to see what going on, reinstalled throttle body.After that car is accepting the throttle and I have power.No Engine fault with "Throttle pedal position Sensor Switch A Circuit" but big bang I hear when I give more power and engine fault is on but diagnostic tool do not read the fault. Do you know maybe what can it be? thanks!

[@cromgu3664]

Short update all OK it seems that something was with a connector on the throttle body.Connector cleaned with contact spray all working now. Just one more question after the coolant hose was removed do I need to bleed the cooling system?

[@shed52]

@@cromgu3664 Turn the engine on and let it get up to temperature, if it keeps getting hotter it means you might have an air block. This will mean you will need to bleed.

[@cromgu3664]

Thank you very much for the help!

[@pinknblues1]

did it start? my video backed out at 16 min

[@shed52]

She did start almost straight away, I also had to change the alternator and battery. I will look at the video and see if I can fix the issue. Thank you for the feedback, David

[@normandcastonguay8258]

Starter Smart 2010

[@shed52]

Thank you for the feedback Normand

[@laradresden5914]

i'm nervous that your watch will get scratched!

[@shed52]

I know I should take it off, but I don't feel comfortable without it. Thanks for the concern.