How to repair SeaDoo IBR Actuator! (Removal And Repair)

[@ForceBuilt]

IBR Actuator Motor: amzn.to/3WnTkMy IBR Actuator Motor link 2(In case one link stops working): amzn.to/3HEQHCe Black RTV Sealant: amzn.to/3A2irLx

[@Kevzae]

You sir are amazing for putting this on KZbin. These IBR actuators are the most common issues with seadoos

[@ForceBuilt]

Thanks so much!

[@consalvator748]

Gday mate, After watching your video I attempted to replace my IBR motor as it had failed and the ski was stuck in reverse. I purchased the motor from your link from Amazon, it came in 4 days as I am located in Australia. I followed your video step by step apart from removing the box as I managed to remove and replace the IBR without to much difficulty. Replaced the motor and all is great. The system Self calibrated for me and the system works perfect. Now to water test the ski in a few days as I would like the sealant to set, so no water or moisture can enter the unit or the hull. Thank you so much for your video. I was quoted $2,500 Australian dollars just for the complete IBR not including labour. Your a gentleman mate. Thank you kindly.

[@ForceBuilt]

Thank you so much! I love it when I get comments like yours. Makes my day!

[@stuartcalder4080]

Awesome video mate, perfectly presented , followed it step by step and it worked for me.. thanks..

[@ForceBuilt]

That's Great Stuart! Glad it helped you out! Thanks for commenting!

[@derekbaker6981]

This absolutely works for a 2016 Sea Doo GTI 130. Took us about 8 hours with 3 people. Hardest thing for us was the bucket was locked in the upward position which made getting to the bolt that detaches the linkage to the bucket. Finally got it and installed the new motor. Still had a little daylight left to take it out on water for about an hour. Awesome having neutral and reverse again. Thanks so much for the video and savings!

[@ForceBuilt]

Man, I am glad it worked out for you!!!

[@ForceBuilt]

IBR Actuator Motor: amzn.to/3WnTkMy link 2 if first link is out of stock: amzn.to/3HEQHCe People are missing the link so I thought I would place it here. Thanks for all the comments and watching. If you like the channel, don't forget to subscribe!

[@markwojno2299]

are saying that the $600 seadoo motor only cost $30 as a replacement at amazon

[@ForceBuilt]

Yes. It's a cheap fix for sure and works great!

[@noahpotter791]

Does this fit a 2013 rxpx 260 IBR ?

[@R1Brooklyn]

Great video, let’s get this dude to million subscribers

[@ForceBuilt]

Oh Yeah! Thanks for watching

[@thomasgurley4608]

Great video! Very well done and informative. Thanks so much.

[@ForceBuilt]

Glad you like it Thomas! Thanks for watching!

[@uberacx]

Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Really appreciate it. My iBR just failled. 2021 RXT-X. I am thinking if I should just let the Seadoo Mech do it or replace it myself. It's gonna be alot of work without being able to bring the ski back to a proper garage...

[@jimgeary9514]

Thanks for the oil filter wrench trick. Great job on this video. Manual also calls for liquid gasket sealant on threads of nut.

[@ForceBuilt]

Thanks Jim! I should have showed that. I did seal the treads with black rtv.

[@MikeVanberkel]

I must have missed it but what is the oil filter trick?

[@ForceBuilt]

I used the tool to get the plastic nut off the hull where it connects to the ibr. Like a big set of pliers. click here 6:05

[@correodejoscar]

Great video! I just had to do the same, and thanks to all the other previous posters talking about this iBR craziness and crappy motor. Your videos adds the details that were missing. TRICK: One trick that made it way easier for me was to take the temp sensor out.. then the actuator can slide without taking the muffler out. Just be careful as the sensor is sensitive to tossing around and cost $40. LOL - you know how I learned!

[@ForceBuilt]

Thanks Jonathan! I appreciate you stopping by. If I ever do this again I will remember your trick. Muffler not hard to remove but a PAIN to get back in! Thanks for watching!

[@raystory1321]

Great Job. That kid hit the jackpot. He got the daughter and a great future father inlaw. He better not screw this up.

[@ForceBuilt]

Thanks Ray lol!

[@mickeyperrell876]

what a great job buddy and thank you so much cause i have to do mine . thank you so much for the great video

[@ForceBuilt]

Thanks for the great comment Mickey! Glad you found my video useful!

[@jacobheadley3945]

I am having a really tough time getting the shaft punched through the motor to free that gear and the plastic shroud. My shaft does not move up and down like yours does. Wondering if you have any suggestions. IBR out of a 19 Spark. Great video, super helpful! Thank you!

[@ForceBuilt]

Mine was tight but not like what you are saying. You may have to use a little heat to free it up. Good luck!

[@paniagua6650]

I have mine 2017 2017 seadoo rxp-x 300 only going to 50 mph and 6k rms and at idle a shakes a bit I can’t get to find the problem on it

[@ffc3476]

Thanks for sharing help us out understanding what’s to it Thank you sir

[@ForceBuilt]

Very welcome!

[@GabrielListon-vf7hu]

Excellent video , about to do mine , really appreciate it 👍

[@ForceBuilt]

Thanks Gabriel! I didn't have any issues. Well worth the effort to save $$$! Please post your results here. I would love to hear about them.

[@chrislengyel3763]

This is an exceptional how-to video, you covered all my questions and more. Are you lubricating anything as you put it back together? Do the gears run dry? Does anything require blue locktite?

[@ForceBuilt]

I just put it back together with what was already there. Some white lithium grease would be ok to add.

[@armandorobles8101]

Did the actuator work at all before being replaced? It’s just supposed to move the bucket right? When I go into IBR override it does move up and down as is supposed to. Thanks for the video!

[@ForceBuilt]

My actuator did not work at all. Thanks for watching!

[@Lakesidearmorer]

Watching a year later ...... Thanks I better understand what my problem is.

[@ForceBuilt]

You are welcome!

[@gillespelletier8313]

Good job with the video. It’s very well explained. My question is did you need the software to remove the IBR errors or to make sure it recognized the IBR?

[@ForceBuilt]

No, I did not. It worked all on its own. Thanks for watching!

[@AchikSarih]

Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

[@ForceBuilt]

Tu es très accueillir!!!

[@MikeZ32TT]

Nice info and good video

[@ForceBuilt]

Thanks Mike! Thanks for watching!

[@andrewwaker]

Hi there, great video. please can you tell me where you got the motor from?

[@andrewwaker]

dont worry, i just. saw your link 👍

[@KennethCrawford1970]

Great video. Thanks for posting!

[@ForceBuilt]

Thanks K! The repair is not hard to do imho! Good luck!

[@KennethCrawford1970]

@@ForceBuilt Sea Doo rolled off the trailer and hit pavement. It broke the plastic thread on the actuator in half. Unfortunately I have to buy a whole new actuator. I can’t find just the housing anywhere

[@ForceBuilt]

@@KennethCrawford1970 Yeah that's a bummer for sure!

[@stephen865]

did the ski have any errors show up before you fixed it

[@ForceBuilt]

It said something about the IBR system. Then it would start flashing IBR I think. I don't remember what exactly. It wasn't my ski. Thanks

[@charleskovach4450]

How do you do IBR over ride

[@dlucas313]

Just watched your video very informative. I have a 09 GTX IS Limited. My IBR is out, curious to know how you found the DC motor for your IBR actuator? Any ideas how I might find the specs on mine?

[@ForceBuilt]

Thanks for the question but I don't know. I just saw where someone repaired the actuator that was like mine. If the interior actuator box looks the same, the motor should work. If it is different, then Google will be the only help. I will look into it and post here if I find any information. Thanks

[@ForceBuilt]

Yeah, Yours is totally different by what I found. I wouldn't know without taking one apart. Good luck!

[@dlucas313]

@@ForceBuilt Thanks for checking! I found the motor worked fine, but the circuit board needs replacing. Unfortunately, they don't sell the circuit boards separately. I'll need to buy a whole new unit...

[@ForceBuilt]

@@dlucas313 Thanks for the update!

[@richardkistner5549]

Thank you!

[@ForceBuilt]

You are Welcome!

[@skuzera66]

I'm struggling to get the waterbox back in the machine, is there a secret?

[@ForceBuilt]

No, just a tight fit. Keep working it will go. I think I remember a sensor being in the way that I ended up removing in order to get the water box back in.

[@skuzera66]

@@ForceBuilt I ended removing the boot in front of the water box, took less than 1 minute, would recommend this. Finished yesterday and water tested, everything works, but my gate lowers too far, do you know if the up/down positions can be adjusted through the computer or do I have to pull the pump to adjust the link?

[@ForceBuilt]

@@skuzera66 probably can be programmed. I made sure I put everything back in the position I found it. I didn't have to do anything else extra.

[@budosanyaderkelluser]

thank your video, I would be interested in how much torque did you use to put it together ?

[@ForceBuilt]

I just looked it up online. I don't remember. Good luck and thanks for watching

[@budosanyaderkelluser]

@@ForceBuilt I also found it, thank you

[@ForceBuilt]

@@budosanyaderkelluser Great!

[@michaelfulcher5743]

What are the symptoms of this? Last two times I was at the lake, the ibr was stuck. I had to pull ski back out and get it moving while out of the water. Then it would work in the water. Is that the signs of an actuator about to completely fail? Once up and going, it works fine for the day… Thanks to any who reply.

[@ForceBuilt]

Not really sure about that situation. Mine went out all at once and you couldn't get it to work. Maybe yours is just binding and once you get it moving the water in the lake keeps it lubricated. Then after the day is done, you pull it out for a couple of weeks and it dries out and starts binding again. Thanks for watching

[@aandgbre649]

Hey, great video and very helpful? Just wondering if you know what’s the min and max rpm for the 775 dc motor that can be fitted as I only found one with either 8000rpm or a max of 20000 rpm locally. Thanks

[@ForceBuilt]

I am actually not sure. I would be afraid the extra speed would cause damage to the plastic pieces inside the housing. It may work though. If you try it lets us all know here please! Thanks for watching

[@aandgbre649]

Thanks a lot! We just installed and tested unit with the slightly larger rpm and works perfectly. Will calibrate it on Monday when pump goes back. Thank you so much! 🙌🏻

[@salvaavlas5757]

Hi guys, last year I replaced mine with a 3500 rpm and it’s too slow on the water (delay). Did you see any difference with the one you installed (6000rpm) compared to the original one (reactivity of the ibr)?? If it’s ok I’ll replace mine with the 6000rpm one otherwise I’ll choose the 8000 or 10000 rpm one… Thanks a lots

[@bryanweemes2470]

What's Pickwick ready mean?

[@ForceBuilt]

That is a nearby Lake.

[@badkarma2202]

Great vid. Q? Anything come loose since I did not see u use lock-tight at needed points.

[@ForceBuilt]

Man, it's been a while but I don't remember seeing Loctite on anything. I do have Loctite and would have used it if I noticed that it was used from the factory. I was hot and tired and ready to get the video done. If yours does have blue Loctite on some hardware, I would use it on those bolts. I have had no issues at all. Thanks for watching!

[@badkarma2202]

Thanks for the vid, I went to amazon and bought a motor so I have it if ever needed. Hope u do more seadoos if he needs service…lol

[@The_Brew_Dog]

Great video. Have you dealt with any gen 1 ibr? I have 2 skis giving me iBR issues right now one is a gen 3 like this one and I just ordered the replacement motor using your link. The other is a gen 1 and I haven’t done anything yet. Hoping to find a similar repair for that one but not finding anything as of yet.

[@ForceBuilt]

No, this is the only one I have had dealings with. I can't imagine that Gen 1 couldn't be done though. Thanks for watching!

[@ForceBuilt]

Yeah, I just looked at the Gen 1. It is a lot different than the Gen 3. Good luck and post your findings here if you try and tackle it!

[@MacMcDell]

As a newb guy...I am wondering why you even needed to pull the shaft from the back in the first place. It seemed like once you pulled the nylon thread it just pulled out. Is it because the shaft itself is threaded into the ibr box?

[@ForceBuilt]

That is correct. Thanks for watching!

[@theaussienurseflipper.8113]

Hey mate great video. I don't know what's going on with my son's Sea-Doo I just had it service for him which was 520 dollars Australian. On the report and she said it to me that the ibr had over voltage. But they reset the code and it was alright and she said maybe the batteries a little bit flat. Couple days later my son took it for a spin it drove right for 30 minutes and he stopped and then he went to restart it and it's like the battery is flat. Anyway you bought it home and I had a look at it and sonic just pulling all the power out of the battery. I charged the battery into the low test and it was fine. Try to start it in the dash corner flashes and there's a clicking sound which carries on even after you pull the key out. And the battery drops down to five volts. I don't know anything about it I grabbed the bucket at the back and it feels a bit wobbly I don't know if it's supposed to be like that or not. The dealerships at south dodgy here in Australia. My son bought the ski a couple years ago and had its service at the dealer it was bought and serviced all its life it's a 2012. They called and said the supercharged needed rebuilding a new prop and I said I got three seats when I bought it that you just done it 20 hours ago. So we didn't get the work done and this year to a different deal and they said the prop was perfect but now I've got all this problem with the battery. I'm going to try the jump start it with a car battery tomorrow. Any advice would be very helpful thank you Graham

[@ForceBuilt]

Not really sure. I would start with a new battery. I feel the battery is the source of the issue you are having. Thanks for watching!

[@theaussienurseflipper.8113]

@@ForceBuilt thx mate. I will try that tomorrow

[@leestewart9479]

1 year later, How have your repairs held up?

[@ForceBuilt]

Still going strong! Thanks

[@leestewart9479]

@@ForceBuilt do you have any recommendations on removing the sealant that was on the existing box? I am assuming I need to remove the left-over sealant before adding the fresh sealant.

[@ForceBuilt]

Yes you do. I just got some plastic pry tools from harbor freight and scrapped it off.

[@savage169]

Thanks mate, should be a great help

[@savage169]

This one you need to select voltage and speed. 12v 12500rpm you think?

[@ForceBuilt]

You're welcome!

[@ForceBuilt]

@@savage169 I linked the one I use in the description. It works great but there may be a better one if you can figure out what the old motor is. Thanks for watching!

[@neilbickerdike]

Can these motors be bought in the UK

[@ForceBuilt]

@@neilbickerdike try this link. amzn.eu/d/0iFQChOo

[@3DEWAR]

Hi there, Did the IBR actuator need calibrated after or was good to go?

[@ForceBuilt]

It was good to go. Thanks!

[@johnkotara8697]

A couple questions & comments. First of thanks for doing! Did you grease the gears and the threaded rod.. is so with what grease and how much.. (I'm guessing lightly with a silicone based lube like super lube..although yours looked pretty dry for the most part). Lastly, the "one-turn" to thread the rod one confuses me... I believe mine the nut and the shaft are clamped tight (hoping) and it unthreaded the whole time I was removing it.. hoping to thread it on and it ends in the original position. one thread doesn't seem like enough for it to grab the threads on the actuator rod.. mine was closer to 4 turns in and I don't think I spin the nut and the outside arm separately.. (waiting on a motor to reassemble). Thanks!!

[@ForceBuilt]

So the end of the shaft has threads and so does the big plastic nut. I want the shaft to thread in 1 complete round before I allow the plastic nut to start screwing into the hull. The plastic nut is connected by a rubber flex boot. You can pull the boot back and get all the room you need to thread in the shaft. I did not replace any grease. I only used what was still there. Hope this helps!

[@johnkotara8697]

@@ForceBuilt Makes sense! Thanks for the quick feedback!

[@jakea1560]

Pickwick ready!

[@ForceBuilt]

Yes Sir!

[@392ram]

How could you tell this was the issue what was your jet ski doing ?

[@ForceBuilt]

So the jet ski wouldn't go into forward or reverse. It was just sitting in one spot. The motor went bad so the ibr system couldn't move in order to change direction. I suspect that it could also be stuck in forward or reverse with some jet ski. It depends on what position the ibr system is in when the motor goes bad. Thanks for watching!

[@392ram]

So you think if my jet ski is stuck in forward and I keep getting the Ibr beep it’s the engine ?

[@392ram]

Ibr engine*

[@bradleyrothschild3925]

I think my issue is close to yours…what was the verdict with your ski? Tia

[@alecsisavath7850]

Will this motor work on 2016 seadoo gti 130?

[@ForceBuilt]

If the black actuator box I repair in the video looks the same, then yes. If it is different, I don't think so.

[@alecsisavath7850]

Thanks so much. Video is very helpful. The ibr would blink and the gate stays down.

[@ForceBuilt]

@@alecsisavath7850 Your are wlecome!

[@dustinoppliger8410]

How long does this take to do? Thanks

[@ForceBuilt]

2-3 hours I would say.

[@dustinoppliger8410]

@@ForceBuilt Any specific Silicone you used or just a general Automotive silicone?

[@ForceBuilt]

Black RTV is what I used. link in the description. Thanks for watching.

[@rafaelpiorno]

Thanks sir!

[@ForceBuilt]

WELCOME!

[@johnkotara8697]

OK.. I'm ready to reinstall mine. I see some people put some sealant/black RTV on the plastic threads for the outside nut. What about on the inside of the hull where the module exits the hull.. and the O-ring on the nut.. anything or leave 'em dry? Anyone know if it's shown in the shop manual... if so It make sense to buy it online for $15. Thanks!!

[@ForceBuilt]

Just the nut threads and where the nut touches the hull. No need to do anything inside. thanks

[@johnkotara8697]

Hate to ask.. but does anyone have all the torque specs for the Pump/IBR, etc.

[@ForceBuilt]

I don't. I think I just Googled it.

[@derivaldosantos4337]

Vou botar na água

[@AchikSarih]

Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

[@ForceBuilt]

You are welcome! Thanks for watching!