How to Replace a Wheel Bearing on a Subaru

This process should more or less apply to most Subarus built in the early to mid 2000's (as well as many other vehicles with this type of press fit bearing). In this video I replace a front wheel bearing on my 2004 Subaru Forester.
Edit: I never showed removing or installing the axelnut. that is also a step.
My Twitter: / spoonlesscorey
My Blog: Cheesed-off.com
Here are some shortcuts to specific parts of the video.
3:00 Steering knuckle removal
11:41 Bearing replacement
27:11 Steering knuckle reinstallation
Here is a short list of specialty tools I purchased for this job.
* Central Machinery 20 ton H-Frame Shop Press - www.harborfreight.com/automoti...
* Pittsburgh 3/4 in. Ball Joint Separator - www.harborfreight.com/automoti...
Note this worked, but only just barely. The fork on this tool is just a bit too narrow to fit around the ball joint.
* Pittsburgh Large Bearing Separator - www.harborfreight.com/automoti...
* Pittsburgh 8 in. Three-Jaw Gear Puller - www.harborfreight.com/automoti...
* Pittsburgh 10 Piece Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set - www.harborfreight.com/10-piece...
* Assorted short pipe fittings from the plumbing section at Lowes
Please note you would need many more tools than these to do this job, (such as a jack and jackstands, wrenches, prybars, etc.).
This video is for entertainment only. If you choose to work on your own vehicle I'm not responsible for anything that may result.
This video is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License. To view a copy of this license, visit creativecommons.org/licenses/b....

[@johnnienaber4268]

Definitely one of the highest quality repair demonstrations.

[@TheApothecaryAus]

Good video. Two things I'd recommend. Wear safety glasses when using a press. Secondly, Copper grease is your friend when it comes to metal-metal corrosion areas, rather than red stuff.

[@markwatson8630]

Spoonless, Thanks for a well done instructional video. I especially appreciate the use of fast forward during the removal of bolts and nuts.

[@773chiguy]

Great video. I paid my mechanic to do this and it cost me almost 600 clams to change one side. When I questioned the price, he explained the process saying the press fit bearings is what makes the process so time consuming. Now seeing this video, I can believe it. Thanks for sharing!

[@jonathanwyble4227]

At least your mechanic took the knuckle off and used the arbor press. I paid 500 clams per wheel for (nameless chain) to use a slide hammer without taking the knuckle off, and three short years later both bearings are shot!

[@turdsandwicher]

why does it not last as long if you use a slide hammer? Thinking about trying this myself.

[@CheesedoffBlog]

+turdsandwicher First off, given my experience, i would be very doubtful that you would be able to remove/install the bearing with a slide hammer. The fit is super tight. As far as not lasting long, you don't want to damage the rollers or races in the bearing by applying uneven sharp force from a hammer. Bearing are designed to sustain even loading. A sharp hit from a hammer or slide hammer just isn't what the bearing is designed to be resilient against.

[@CheesedoffBlog]

+turdsandwicher also if you're in the US, black friday is coming up, and I believe Harbor Freight has presses on sale. Best of luck.

[@turdsandwicher]

right on. This is actually for my sister but I just learned the car is actually an outback not a forester. They have the easier ones where you replace the whole hub type deal. Slide hammer should work on those.

[@usedreviews7357]

Thanks for the vid, I kinda skipped through it, without noting the technique, but I noticed you were using the same press I was thinking of buying for the job. I purchased the same press, realized it was not wide enough to press the way I thought it would, struggled with the lack of extra iron to set it all up, did the job, wondered what you did, came back to the video, and laughed hysterically in the similarity of the struggle...

[@usedreviews7357]

p.s. I selected sealed one piece bearings, so I was able to press the whole bearing in first, clip it, seal it, grease the air gap, then support the inner, inside race, and press in the new spindle. I also froze the spindle and bearing. They pressed in with ease that way. If you don't have a grease packer for serviceable bearings, put a wad of grease in one hand. Place your fore and index finger through the inner race and grip the bearing. That opens up the top opposing edge between the outer race and roller keeper. Try to scoop the grease with that open edge, and when you contact your palm, press. Rotate and repeat. When the grease oozes from the rollers, your bearing is properly packed.

[@mkrp4]

Love your diagram on white board! I''ll try it for my class!

[@Migaligaz]

Awesome video. Was about to do it myself...with a slide-hammer. Going to the Subaru guy and fore-go some bills. Thanks for the info!

[@Datsun260ZFan]

LSPR -- TRIPLE Bonus for the shirt!!! Great video, thanks! I'm an STPR/WMWR organizer, so seeing the rally shirt was awesome. I've made it out to work Sno-Drift a number of times, but not to LSPR or Ojibwe, YET...

[@CheesedoffBlog]

+Datsun260ZFan kickass dude! I was just at sno-drift a couple weeks ago.

[@seshachary5580]

very nice do you video for the rear hub. very educative Thank you

[@zachpaw]

please hold onto the camber adjusting bolt and keep it in place, and loosten the nut side, you can ruin the bolt by loostening the bolt side itself

[@full165]

If you have an old metal coat hanger you can use that to hang the caliper and you won't need to cut the zip ties later and you can also reuse the hanger for later brake jobs.

[@CheesedoffBlog]

This is true. Copper house wiring also works really well. I ended up just grabbing what was nearby. Thanks for the comment!

[@gamesanddadsgamesanddads6364]

thank you I appriciate your advise.

[@allenmundorff3941]

Haha love the drum stick pointer!

[@rookairsoft9818]

I wish my tie rod came off that easy. p.s. A low mile steering knuckle assembly at a junk yard is around $30. I replaced the whole thing, skipped pressing the bearing.

[@Clearanceman2]

I ended up buying a HF 20 ton floor press for $150 after coupon due to this design. They should have been sealed if they were that hard to change. And I realize they were starting in 2005. But my 2000 has this through 2004.

[@Captaindan7141]

Awesome video! Thank you for this, I am about to tackle the bearings on my 06 Forester. By the way, what branch were you in?

[@CheesedoffBlog]

+Dan Bonnett Thanks for the complement, I'm glad you found the video helpful. I never served in the military myself, but I do value freedom, and am grateful to those who have. The ammo cans in my garage are just some sturdy boxes I picked up at a flea market. Good luck on bearing change.

[@donhite6246]

Thanks for the video. Made the job so much easier. My 03 Legacy was indeed the same set up as your Forester. How's your head gasket holding up?

[@CheesedoffBlog]

Thanks, Glad to hear it helped. My head gasket is leaking, but not badly yet. I'm gonna swap it out this summer, but since its such a big job and I'll likely be in a rush to get it done, I may not record it.

[@SamFunk12]

Fuck this I am buying the whole assembly haha

[@1Howdy1]

You don't need the whole assembly, but you should think about the front suspension only being as strong as it's weakest link. Meaning, if you're going to replace the bearings on a car with miles on it, might as well replace the ball joint, axle, strut, and tie rod ends, too. You end up with a tight car and cut the repair time down by about 75%. Could there be a little life left is some of the parts? Maybe, but usually leaving them in could mean just tearing things apart again.

[@marika1597]

Sam Meyers thats my cousin

[@rickyrio2954]

Two little round springs ? Are those already in the bearing ? I wasn't aware I had to buy the seals separate so I just want to make sure I have everything now . Thank you .

[@CheesedoffBlog]

+Ricky Rio I think what you're asking about is the part I remove at 15:10 which it slips off my pliers flies off camera (please correct me if I'm mistaken). That's a c-clip, which is a "C" shaped piece of metal that almost makes complete circle. It sits in a grove to hold the outer race and keeps it from moving around after installation. To remove/install it you have to squeeze the gap shut to bring the diameter down. Its pretty stiff which is why it acts like a spring when removed it.

[@gamesanddadsgamesanddads6364]

hello. I just replaced front end right side wheel bearing on Subaru Forester x 2004 with new rotor and brake pads. after driving 300 miles on a rough road the grinding noise came back specially Everytime I turn on left. please help.

[@CheesedoffBlog]

+Danilo Misajon wow, I'm sorry to hear that. It could be another bad bearing, a break issue, or something as simple as loose lug nuts. Unfortunately noises like this can be difficult to diagnose, especially when not there in person. +EricTheCarGuy has some videos about how to go about diagnosing suspension noises (such as: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qZSpk5VqaMuqp80 ). He also has a forum on his website with a good amount users that may be able to help you out better than I can. Also if you're really stuck, some shops offer free or inexpensive diagnosis. Which might help you narrow down the problem. Good luck! Sorry I can't be more helpful.

[@benlukkie]

Ths for this very informational vid! Sounds like you listen to the same kind of electronic music I do in my unit ;)

[@InsanoBinLooney]

where did you place your tool when you pressed out the outer race?was it on the angled surface where the rollers roll?

[@CheesedoffBlog]

+InsanoBinLooney Yep, that's right. There is a lip, or ridge, inside the steering knuckle. The outer race is pressed right up against that lip. Because of this, the end of the outer race is blocked, you cannot press on it directly as you would during installation. So, you will need to push on the tapered surface where the rollers ride. Just a reminder too: don't forget to remove the c-clip first. Good luck! I'm happy to hear people are getting use out of the video.

[@InsanoBinLooney]

my "friend" flaked out on me mid disassembly on a weekend and long story short, had too buy my own press because the auto shops rates where more than the price of the 20 ton press I bought. your diagram was a huge help (tips hat), thanks for the quick response

[@LikeTheWind00]

what was the total time it took you to fully dismantle, repair/replace parts, then reassemble the front end on one side?

[@CheesedoffBlog]

+Shawn Duteil If its your first time doing this job, it will most likely take more time than you expect. Its been almost a year since I did the work. But from what I recall it took me approx. 2 weekends to do the first side (though there was a bit of overlap there where I had both sides taken apart). That included a bunch of time I spent scratching my head as i ran into unexpected problems. And a bunch of time making random tool runs to harbor freight and the parts store for stuff I didn't know I needed. If I had to do the same job again I'm fairly confident it could be done in a weekend, possibly even a day.

[@LikeTheWind00]

Spoonless okay. thanks for the prompt response and information.

[@timmichellehavens4164]

Good job - well done - a hui ho Tax

[@AJFresh69]

Hi, I don't see where/when you installed the outer grease seal. did you grease the wheel spindle to install the outer grease seal?

[@CheesedoffBlog]

+AJFresh at about the 16:34 point I drop the outer seal on the spindle. It is really quick and near a cut point, so it's easy to miss. I don't think I showed it, but I did smear some grease on the seal beforehand. Thanks for asking

[@AJFresh69]

+Spoonless excellent tip thank you for the response

[@flat_life750]

Oops I meant to ask for the rear of a subaru?

[@draperb1]

I am to the point of putting in the inner seal and that is the only way I can think to get the seal in. It is a tight fit.

[@CheesedoffBlog]

+draperb1 it can be a tight fit. The number one thing is to avoid tearing the rubber on the seal during installation. I used my press to install the inner seal because it applies even and steady pressure. The one thing I didn't like about this method is force is applied on the rubber flap. I avoided using a hammer or mallet, since they offer less control.

[@RexxReviews]

How much time would it had saved to buy the whole new hub with the bearing already in it? I found this whole assembly;y for less than $170ish while the bearing alone was still like $70

[@AndrewMartin600]

where did you place the jack stand

[@CheesedoffBlog]

+Andrew Martin i believe i placed them somewhere on the engine cradle, but I don't remember for sure where

[@ryanratcliffe8541]

Is it possible to install a new bearing without a press?

[@CheesedoffBlog]

+Ryan Ratcliffe Some say it is possible. Although I would say no. As the alternative methods I have seen look very difficult and usually involve hammering on the bearing which is a good way to damage things.

[@AndrewMartin600]

how different is this process for rears?

[@CheesedoffBlog]

+Andrew Martin not sure. I would imagine it would be about the same, with exception to removing the breaks. Since you would have to deal with drum breaks instead of calipers.

[@Ureyeuh]

Do you need a 20 ton press? Or can you do this with, say, a 12 ton press?

[@CheesedoffBlog]

You could probably get away with using the 12 ton press. When I got mine, I think there was a sale, because I remember the price difference being almost almost trivial

[@Ureyeuh]

Couldn't I just purchase a wheel hub assembly and swap that out? This is the part I've been planning to buy. THANK YOU for replying on such an old upload! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LFL8JDI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

[@CheesedoffBlog]

Unfortunately, not the one you listed the link to. Even if that one came pressed together (I don't think it does), you would still need to press the outer race into the steering knuckle. I supposed if you found an assembly with the knuckle, bearing, and spindle all pressed together, you could just swap that assembly out. But those are expensive and hard to come by new. I also wouldn't recommend buying at a junk yard for the purpose of this repair, since you would run the risk of buying one with a lot of miles on. At that point it would likely be cheaper/easier to just buy the parts and a press. If you don't have the tools, it is an expensive repair no matter how you slice it. You won't save money until you do the second one because the cost of tools works out close to the cost of labor at a shop. You do have 4 wheels though, and bearings don't last forever, if you plan on keeping the car around, you'll probably save money in the long run. (Side note: if you own a newer forester, I think after 2006, the bearings are a bolt on assembly and don't require a press to change out)

[@Ureyeuh]

Ahh I see. Dang it. I knew it couldn't be that easy! haha Yeah, I own an '03 Outback, and I plan to be purchasing an '07 soon, so I think I'll just invest in the tools and learn how to do it myself so I can save money.

[@flat_life750]

hey man,isn't there four bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle that i could just remove it that way?

[@CheesedoffBlog]

This is true for some subis,, especially newer ones. They switched to bolt on bearings, I think around 2008~2010. They're really nice compared to the ones I worked on.