How to Replace an Xbox One Elite Series 2 Controller Analog Joystick

[@SOSSGAMING]

Update: If your controller got the new software update, the back plate needs to be connected (because it has the battery inside it) for the gamepad tester to see the controller. Also, links to the joystick and soldering kits are in the description.

[@bottledbeans8809]

Hello, with my right joystick it refuses to unthread and come out

[@SOSSGAMING]

@@bottledbeans8809 Have you tried using pliers and/or heating it up already? Or is it just twisting on you?

[@GHANDiFRESH]

Would you possibly know a way to trick the board into thinking the battery is connected when its not? I bought the Elite Series 2 on release, years back in 2019, and immediately took it apart and removed the rumbles and battery for weight reduction. However, as you may know, Microsoft recently pushed a firmware update that secretly included no boot up upon no battery detected. It just continuously repeats power on cycle and restarts every time it fails to detect it. Such a pain as I’ve gotten used to the balance and rather play hardwired than forced wireless.

[@SOSSGAMING]

​@@GHANDiFRESH Great question. I'm sure there's a technical way to go about tricking it, but I honestly would know where to start. This sounds like a great question to ask on the acidmods forum.

[@GHANDiFRESH]

@@SOSSGAMING Appreciate it; I thought I’d ask here anyways just in case it helped any other person with this particular scenario. I had an Idea beforehand how to try and go about it. Which was to buy a broken Elite Series 2 for salvage and use the chip inside that battery pack and wire it to the board closing a loop.

[@tehcowgoesquack]

Microsoft casually making an overengineered, $200, annoying to repair piece of junk

[@brentgreen1991]

#Facts

[@PeugeotRocket]

It's a fantastic controller. Not sure what you are talking about. I don't see any over engineering. Mine only broke because I dropped it.

[@jovannihuerta148]

Maybe you just need to evolve, straight up

[@italianbasegard]

If it was overengineered, it wouldn’t be having these issues

[@PeugeotRocket]

@@italianbasegard Over engineered doesn't inherently mean it is going to have issues. Many over engineered things are reliable. Furthermore, being over engineered means that the the same effect could have been achieved with a simpler solution without losing any functionality. So what could have been done differently and in a simpler manner without losing any of the Elite's functionality? Tell me specifically what could have been changed in this design.

[@lorde_2046]

If you’re having trouble removing the joystick, that tip provided in the video of heating up the joystick with a heat gun actually worked for me! Be sure to place a damp towel or cloth over the joystick to prevent you from melting any other components by accident.

[@BMANZZS]

Absolutely the best disassembly video of the elite series 2 and generally informative one too. Thank you so much for this!

[@DaCom3AK]

I completely broke a potentiometer trying to twist off a thumbstick. So thanks for this video. However, the way I removed potentiometers from my other Elites was by using a 2 nose pliers, one to the stem underneath the dome and one to above the dome with the thumbstick grips off. This made it so much easier and safe.

[@jtperez657]

What 2 nose pliers are you talking about exactly? I can't find any that fit underneath the dome

[@DaCom3AK]

@@jtperez657 Nose pliers are the tools I used. Its not part of the controller lol

[@jtperez657]

@@DaCom3AK I meant I can't find any that work for this application. I know they're not part of the controller lmao

[@Oneklickmedia]

My guess is the little pick you get when you buy iPad screen replacement? I have those tools and I’m planning on using those. It’s thin precise needle nose pliers look alike. Hope that help?

[@casse82]

Thanks, much needed after going through 3 controllers (all left thumbstick failures) during warranty period and then running out of warranty and 4th failing...

[@organicinsanity2534]

Thanks man! I had one controller with bad shoulder buttons/dpad and dropped my new one and broke a joystick. Turns out the joysticks are on a separate board than everything else. Ur vid was clear and to the point. More I turned two junk controllers into one good one😊

[@user-rh8wj4os3x]

This worked for my SCUF as well simple fix but don’t know how long it’ll last, but a quick fix was all I looked for

[@Jerky97]

Had a rouge piece of plastic that had broken off after a drop off my lap this was just what I needed to get it out thanks g

[@philsurtees]

I had to replace my front shell, because the rubber was starting to peel off, so this was very helpful thank you...

[@Maboidatboi]

Truly revolutionary... that the DS2 controlleres calibrated themselfs over 20 years earlier.

[@SOSSGAMING]

Thanks for the comment! I couldn't find anything to confirm that nor do I have a DS2 controller to test, but I'll take you're word for it. Kinda sad Sony would discontinue doing that, but I suppose they have their reasons :/

[@zacheryhalbert]

I love my elite 2 controller 🤷🏻‍♂️ been using it for over a year and no issues. But if it did break I’d be willing to try and fix it thanks to the great video!

[@Drifded]

How does your controller not have problems? Mine got stick drift within a month. And my controller's front and back plates are cracking.

[@zacheryhalbert]

@@Drifded idk man it’s still working great. Just beat Jedi survivor with it 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@joseanrodriguez2005]

I have mine for year no problem till yester day my 2 year old was puching her toy amd drag the cable controller drop and the click on the left stock stop working i try to see. But dont have the patien for this so i smash it on the floor see if fix lol

[@zacheryhalbert]

@@joseanrodriguez2005 Damn man sorry to hear that. Yeah they definitely aren’t made to handle that kind of impact

[@rickydenton1982]

You really need to use flux more. It makes soldering and desoldering so much more easy. Also, your solder sucker should be used under the through hole you’re working on and your iron above, that prevents awkward angles and melting the tip of the sucker as you have done.

[@SOSSGAMING]

Yes, more flux can't hurt! Just more cleaning sometimes lol And the tip of the solder sucker isn't from melting, it was purposefully cut to provide better suction (The cut part covers the iron so the solder sucker tip is more flush with the board)

[@joelou]

This is a super detailed video and I appreciate it. I'm just surprised its this involved/difficult to replace. I really thought the elite series would be easier to repair, but I guess not..

[@Jojosocold]

It was all cool until he pulled out the saunter lol

[@mrbigtymer78]

Facts 😂😂😂😂

[@joseanrodriguez2005]

What is that?

[@mason5291]

Bro fr

[@CarBleach]

@@joseanrodriguez2005i feel like you know what he meant you’re just tryna be a smart ass

[@joseanrodriguez2005]

@@CarBleach no i dont no what saunter is or mean

[@Imm0rtal49]

Great video! Fixed my friend’s elite controller. Very interesting way to remove the stick box by pieces. If you feel like you’re going to be doing this a few times, I’d recommend a hot air station. Helps with those pesky joints even after using a solder sucker. Once heated enough it just falls right out. These PCB boards, and the ps5 boards, are thick and require a lot of heat especially with unleaded solder.

[@SOSSGAMING]

Glad you had success with the hot air station! Thanks for the comment. Good luck on future repairs :)

[@diegoq4110]

My left joystick plate is loose and I thought my controller was broken, this video saved me money!

[@MEE6-]

Managed to fix the left stick by just replacing the potentiometer . Good video 👍👍👍

[@SOSSGAMING]

Nice! Great job.

[@kflanigan]

I literally just Sealed up my controller following your replacement shoulder button vid lol

[@scrupleztv]

To avoid scratching your thumb sticks columns, or breaking the joystick, if you have one, I'm assuming you do if you're tearing down an electronic, insert a small Phillips screwdriver onto the top of the joystick, and unscrew. That's what that's there for. Other than that, the rest of video perfectly helpful. Thank you so much.

[@strongnb136]

Not really, those are there to adjust like... the resistance of the joystick

[@scrupleztv]

@@strongnb136 not just for that. Engineers wouldn't leave the only way to remove joysticks by applying a pair of pliers to a plastic column to scratch it up. A screw can have more than one purpose and I would bet those screws are Philips to 1 easily adjust the tension and 2 safely remove the columns without damaging them.

[@justinm7399]

Are you assuming it is used that way or have you done it?

[@Noodlesaurousrex]

very, very late here but been trying to figure this out looking at other vids where they simply unscrew the stick no problem, that main little screw does seem to be much higher. the ones here are sunken into the well a little bit, while others seem to almost be rising out the top slightly tldr; it seems like people with the screw more loose dont need pliers

[@lakwasredestdu5811]

The gap in the tip of the solder sucker is a great idea

[@tsskz1]

Thank you very much!!! Elite is saved. Operation complete 🎉

[@SOSSGAMING]

You're welcome! Glad it helped. Great job.

[@BruceThePugDog]

This will be my first try soldering anything, got a free elite 2 with a broken joystick. Other then that it's perfect. Thanks for the info.

[@SOSSGAMING]

Good luck!

[@BruceThePugDog]

Okay so I did what you said not too do. I was rough and pulled out of those metal rings! Is there any way to fix it?

[@SOSSGAMING]

@@BruceThePugDog Uh oh! Technically yes, I believe. Which joystick were you working on? left or right? and which through hole is damaged? There should be a way to jump a wire from the pin on the potentiometer to a specific point on the board.

[@HisZd11]

This video is amazing!!! I'm definitely looking for the video for the potentiometer replacement alone!

[@SOSSGAMING]

Sorry I just haven't got to it yet got slammed with other stuff. But basically just replace the potentiometer causing the issues and "calibrate it" as shown in the video if needed. Hope that helps.

[@HisZd11]

@@SOSSGAMING do you have a good place to buy a replacement part for that pot?

[@SOSSGAMING]

@@HisZd11 If you live in North America I have a few listing of xbox joysticks and also one with the pots separately. If not, you may be able to find some on aliexpress.

[@Kenobi487]

Great video but it’s out of my ability. Guess I’ll just buy a new controller 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@Hewhomweshallnotspeakof]

I was thinking the same thing but it was fun trying to fix it though.

[@robertholsopple9451]

I originally was inside my control to repair the right bumper but when removing the thumb sticks, there was enough thread locker on them to hold a light nut on a car, so my joysticks twisted inside themselves and now I'm replacing those. Thanks for the video. I'm going to use solder wick and remove all solder and try and remove the joysticks in 1 solid piece rather than cit them apart.

[@SOSSGAMING]

Oh no :/ Did the plastic inside the joystick housing break?

[@robertholsopple9451]

@@SOSSGAMING yea, it twisted it around inside the housing. They work still somehow but they don't feel right and they stick at times. I play mainly 1st person shooter titles so they need fixed if I hope to have any accuracy, 😂.

[@therealJohnAcree]

@soss gaming great video and instruction. I have the stick drift issue and didn't know if you had a video on how to fix that outside of changing the potentiometer

[@SOSSGAMING]

I don't, haven't been able to get around to doing that yet. But basically it's what you described, changing out the potentiometer. Nothing fancy really. The video I had planned was just going to be more streamlined.

[@gustavomarin956]

If you guys ever need your controller fixed he will do this for you! I destroyed my thumb sticks and he upgraded my bumpers they work better than brand new. I highly recommend him and service was fast!

[@werewolg]

jo can u do it fore me

[@werewolg]

pls

[@gustavomarin956]

@@werewolg here is his website sossgaming.com/repair-service

[@Childishxmarkeeloo]

The elite controller comes with a little screw thing that you can use to unscrew the analog safely. It’s the round thing with the square tip just use that

[@ajpile187]

Thats for changing the mobility of the joystick not removing it

[@nsoutlawball1941]

Best video I've seen for this.

[@sorrymates8873]

Best Instruction for reparing :)

[@adrianoperez2257]

a copper mash would make it way easier to remove the older soldering, besides this, nice video man, thanks =)

[@alfassi1988]

man, i saw a lot of "fix" videos, only this helped me!!!

[@jamespham6088]

my joystick is working fine, but the click is broken so now I think I might have to replace it... gah I hate how often I have to disassemble this controller because something goes wrong

[@TheWebstaff]

So glad they are bringing calibration into the app. Have you mucked about with swapping spring in the sensors yet?

[@SOSSGAMING]

I haven't swapped any springs from the elite 2 but on some other joysticks I have. Is that what you mean?

[@TheWebstaff]

@@SOSSGAMING yeah. I started down the rabbit hole about a week ago. Then bought a few elite 2 controllers and was disappointed with the slop in the center dead zone then discovered how they are made and the importance of the spring strength on how the sensor functions at a mechanical level. But yeah 3-5% on an elite 2 and it must be due to how the spring assembly is working or not working. My mind jumped to progressive springs. So currently looking at small springs.

[@tonyrgnash]

not sure why you wouldn't just use solder wick, that method worked well for me with my soldering iron set to 400c

[@SOSSGAMING]

On the Elite 2?? Very impressive! I'm sure you have a great technique.

[@oscar1081]

Hey man, nice to see you back. I find that series 2 are a pain in the butt to replace the joysticks but at least they don’t need calibration

[@SOSSGAMING]

Thanks! Yeah, that lead-free solder can be troublesome.

[@calvinbuist4397]

@@SOSSGAMING why doesn't my controller recalibrate itself. I can't use gamepad tester So I just plugged it into the Xbox and not it's on but doesn't do anything what should I do?

[@eneresolong]

Still no luck...it won't power up even with the cable directly connected. Thanks for the response, I appreciate it.

[@SOSSGAMING]

@@eneresolong Does the light try to come on at all? And both boards are connected to eachother? Pretty confused on this one. You might want to consider posting this question on the acidmods forum. They might be able to help better troubleshoot it.

[@eneresolong]

@@SOSSGAMING it worked once for about 10 seconds before the light went out for good. As far as I can tell the boards are connected properly..I had a weird issue where the rumbles were firing non stop at full force before I removed them. Thanks for the tips I'll post if I ever learn more

[@jpuckerino5776]

Hey man having trouble the left stick it's double-clicking any idea on how to fix?

[@jazay591]

Hey is there a tutorial you could make to install a better joystick in? Like maybe one of those magnetic based ones that have a 100x longe lifespan. Forgive me if I being ignorant on electronics hardware, not too versed on the subject.

[@SOSSGAMING]

As far as I'm aware those type of joysticks aren't compatible. They require different type of electronics on the motherboards. Would be nice though!

[@My_Intentions]

Great video as always! Music was not distracting at all btw! Can I ask where is the video detailing how to replace only the potentiometers? Im only seeing a handful of videos on your channel. Or is it imbedded in one of those?

[@SOSSGAMING]

Thanks so much! And thanks for the feedback on the music. I was supposed to have that video ready soon but it's going to take a little longer than I expected. Maybe a month. Sorry about that. It'll pretty much just cover replacing the potentiometers though, which I show at 9:17. If you know which axis the drift is occurring, all you need to do is replace that specific pot. Hope that helps.

[@My_Intentions]

@@SOSSGAMING No worries! Glad to provide the feedback! And sweet! Can't wait to see that other video! Does just replacing a particular axis mess with the factory calibration at all? (So id only be able to calibrate for pc?) And btw do you know which specific ALPS analog sticks i should be looking for on aliexpress or otherwise for xbox one/elite gen 1 controllers?

[@SOSSGAMING]

@@My_Intentions On an elite series 2 controller it'll probably be ok to just swap out because it calibrates itself. For other controllers they may need calibration, depending on what parameters you allow. On aliexpress, if you find a listing that has "oem" vs "original" go with the original.

[@CircularTonic]

15:00 What is the pot Resistance Value for the High Range Pots? Great In-depth video.

[@SOSSGAMING]

Thanks! I believe they are 10k.

[@Kazukamichan]

Thanks, going to do this soon because my left joystick doesn't click in anymore.

[@SOSSGAMING]

Good luck!

[@Kazukamichan]

@@SOSSGAMING Thanks, Looks like a easy repair for me because I'm a experienced at soldering and took a class in highschool but micro soldering is on a whole another level. The controller that I'm going to fix is out of warranty and Microsoft is going to charge me $79 dollars for the repair. I can do it myself and will order more joysticks which are just $10 a set so if it eventually happens again I can repair it my self. About to order the Elite Series 2 Joystick Kit you listed under the video.

[@baklapjaz]

What happened to the video on replacing switch joy cons? I purchased your kit on Amazon, followed your amazing step by step video and the replacement parts work flawlessly. I told a friend I’d send the links to the parts & your video, but it’s not on your channel any more. What’s up?

[@SOSSGAMING]

Sorry about that! Thanks for letting me know. And thanks for the support and word of mouth. I took it down because I'm going to upload two separate videos (for each controller).

[@hackoomb]

Hello friend, that same joystick is compatible with the normal x series, yes I have the replacement kit also for the sticks that are screwable. (I have spare parts for these and would like to modify my series x controllers like the Xbox One Elite Series 2)

[@SOSSGAMING]

In theory they are compatible, but the only problem I see is the Elite Series 2 joysticks sit a little higher, so the joystick might rub on the front cover, but I am not sure. Let me know how it goes!

[@DIY-Morti]

This was very helpful! I've replaced both stick modules. Just now the right stick click doesn't register anymore. Damaged button pad?

[@SOSSGAMING]

What does it show on the tester site when moving the joystick around? And what are the values?

[@DIY-Morti]

@@SOSSGAMING ah forgot to edit here: It just didn't register the click. It was indeed the top right solder pad for the button. So I've tested a bit and traced it to a tiny smd resistor, where I could solder a jumper wire to. All is fine now and the black replacement modules from Ali are tighter feeling than the OG sticks when new. Got a brand new Elite Core here so can compare :-) Stick movement is perfect. 0-2% drift depending on how well it returns to center. Better than new. But that solder combined with smaller holes and shorter mounting pins made it a pia vs. the old One controller :D

[@SOSSGAMING]

@@DIY-Morti Haha good to hear! They can definitely be a pia. The lead-free solder too

[@DIY-Morti]

@@SOSSGAMING True, took a lot of time and 60/40 leaded solder to get this stuff flushed out. Even the desoldering station had no chance due to the pins being such a snug fit while being too short to reach and heat up! Desoldering a complete stick module took me 50 sec. on the Xbox One controller. The Elite 2 I had to cut to pieces prior to desoldering.

[@resinfingers3896]

I love you, amazing video. You are awesome and please keep making useful tutorials like this

[@vefarinaj]

I have a technical question: To start, I'm pretty new to repairs like this. I have lots of mechanical experience, but more on larger scale. I replaced both joysticks, while following along to this video. I couldn't get the controller to show up on the website, so I connected to my XBox (where I use the controller anyway), and there are two issues I've noticed, and am hoping you can point me in the right direction. 1. every button or movement is very sensitive now. 2. the right joystick, on the testing screen, shows it is being pulled to the bottom right, and doesn't move at all when I move the joystick. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks, Vinnie

[@SOSSGAMING]

They made an update to these controllers where now they require the battery pack to be connected for the controller to register with anything. 1. For the sensitive joystick movement, that would be due to the higher range potentiometers (assuming those were used). But for sensitive buttons, I honestly couldn't say. First time hearing an issue about that. 2. This could be caused by a number of things. Most likely cause (at least on other controllers) is damaged pads on through holes. But these controllers are built a bit more sturdy, so perhaps less likely. It also could be a damaged/lost small capacitor/diode that is used in providing that joystick power. Another possibility is the potentiometers themselves. An upside down wheel in the potentiometer could cause this. Simply open the potentiometer and make sure is in the upright position (flat part up). Or simply both potentiometers are faulty. Which seems like the least likely, but possible. One more thing I'd check the solder connections. If there are bridges between two pins this could cause the issue as well, along with a bad solder connection (which could be caused by damaged pads). Hope that helps you move forward in solving this. Let me know if you figure it out.

[@iwestarmy]

Using a hairdryer to heat up the thumbsticks work pretty well.

[@SOSSGAMING]

Nice!

[@seanalmgren4468]

Bro my anxiety doing this would be to high lmao

[@SOSSGAMING]

😅

[@a1pcg887]

Hello, Thank you for the feedback, Once you remove the bottom shell there is the battery underneath on the bottom side these are the connectors for the charging station and on the right side of the battery there is the motherboard connectors, I checked everything several times, at the level of the right screws that are used, it seems that something is pushing and losing contact with the connectors, everything is on the same side ...

[@SOSSGAMING]

Maybe try cleaning the contacts? Slim chance that will do anything. Stumped on this one dang.

[@kaiskl]

Nice done, dont need to buy a new one for more money

[@bingbongarmy9078]

You used your channel locks backwards, but thank you for the video

[@SOSSGAMING]

Haha yeah I'm a total noob. Thanks for watching!

[@Costinmusca]

One issue though - Silicone tubing should not be missing from any desoldering pump tip (in order to protect the PCB and have better suction from the seal it creates)

[@SOSSGAMING]

Are you referencing the solder sucker I am using in the video? If so, it's actually one that comes with a cheap soldering kit. It has a plastic tip, and by cutting a little divot, it's able to go over the soldering tip which creates a better seal, and allows better suction. Oh, and thanks for watching!

[@Costinmusca]

@@SOSSGAMING Yep, that's the sucker allright, it's just I've learned a soft silicone tip will make your life easier around solder pads and protect them as well. You can even cut and use some cable insulation if you find any around that are heat resistant and the fitting dimensions. And yes, it's a cheap or no cost and effective solution ;) (to a problem you never even knew you've had until you've tried it - I know I'm no longer using my desolder pump without a soft tip since I've seen it about 20 something years ago)

[@SOSSGAMING]

@@Costinmusca "that's the sucker" haha. Thanks for the great "tip"!

[@getit7107]

If you have some spare earbud caps made of silicone they are a good fit for the blue solder sucker.

[@gencarelle5]

Great video. My problem is when trying to rmove the covers on the thumbsticks, they end up just spinning. Do I need to apply some upward pressure or something? The analog joystick is fine and not broken.

[@SOSSGAMING]

Sounds like the rubber on the thumbstick is what's spinning. Try using pliers like shown in the video if you can.

[@chasel907]

@@SOSSGAMING I am running into the same issue. I have tried using the longer joy stick w/ and w/out pliers, no joystick just pliers on the "nub", a screw driver, and I have even heated it up as well. I can feel and see the dome spinning (mine has a very small blemish I can see rotate). Any other ideas I can try? I was able to get the left one off no problem but the right one is being extremely difficult. Thanks for the video!

[@SOSSGAMING]

@@chasel907 Sounds like the joystick itself broke somehow. When you tilt the dome piece and look under it, do you see it broken somewhere? And when you turn it looking under the dome piece at the joystick, what do you see happening? If you're trying to save it, I suppose the only way out of that is desoldering each pin. You will basically need a desoldering iron to do this. It may take a bit of work to get each pin free. Another option may be trying to chop the joystick up enough to free the metal piece holding the dome piece. Not sure how viable that option is though. Actually one last may be to hold the metal piece under the dome piece somehow while twisting the dome piece. That would take some type of needle nose pliers. Let me know what you figure out.

[@strongnb136]

@@SOSSGAMING Maybe it needs more time on the heating process for the glue to melt, its happening the same to me here.

[@SOSSGAMING]

@@strongnb136 The shaft part of the joystick broke inside you mean?

[@vyeahgra9826]

Use the key they give you to adjust the joystick tension to losses joy stick. That's what I did

[@pets4489]

Oh god, you're using those channel locks backwards. Those are a directional tool.

[@SOSSGAMING]

I'm a noob! You learn something new everyday. Thanks.

[@TXnavyman1]

Thank you soo much! Found this and saved myself 140 bucks!!!

[@thefishingcarpenter]

I totally destroyed both sticks doing this they are froze up solid as a rock now and i kept everything even and did just how you did.

[@SOSSGAMING]

:(

[@GFBucher88]

I'm having difficulty desoldering. The solder doesn't seem to melt properly. It worked initially, but now it seems like it's not melting at all. I bought the kit shown in the video, so I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong. Additionally, I have a metal piece stuck in the pinhole that I can't remove. The video is great, though-really appreciate it and well done! Any advice on desoldering and getting that piece out would be appreciated. Thanks!

[@SOSSGAMING]

Hello! Sorry to hear about the struggles. Being that it's lead-free solder, it's notoriously more difficult to melt. What temperature do you have the iron set to? The tip of the soldering iron should be clean to aid in the transfer of the heat. I personally love cleaning the iron tip with a wire ball, really easy, but the sponge/water also works. Check out some videos on how to get the tip clean and maintain it (I just clean it after every use or every so often during a longer session). Then you may need to turn the heat up. Adding more of the leaded solder with flux (important so they bond) can help lower it's melting point and melt easier. Once you can get the solder melted, then the stuck piece can be pushed with the iron itself and pried away from the other side. Hope this helps. Good luck.

[@GFBucher88]

@@SOSSGAMINGthanks for the response. Do you know of any controller repair services? For whatever reason I can’t seem to get it. The desoldering part. A shame because I got this far. Thanks.

[@SOSSGAMING]

@@GFBucher88 Bummer. On eBay there are some sellers that offer repair services.

[@Hitohax]

Great tutorial, I replaced the sticks not sure if I shorted something while soldering but now the controller is not detected when plugging in a USB C cable have both the boards together, gamepad tester is not detecting it at all neither will my PC. The board looks good and everything clicks normally. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated this repair is turning to more of a headache than it should have been.

[@SOSSGAMING]

Is everything put back together? They did an update where the battery needs to be connected now in order for it to turn on.

[@SWATsqad]

Thanks, broke both joysticks... Looks like I should have used a philips head on the middle pin instead of forcing them to rotate. I got the rotating forever bug, the only way to fix it was to brute force the dome out, a piece of the analog stick remaining on the dome will need heating (300 Celsius worked for me) and then it easily unscrews.

[@SOSSGAMING]

Sorry to hear that :( I just recently heard of the screwdriver method. I will have to test that out. Best of luck on the rest of the repair..

[@SWATsqad]

@@SOSSGAMING finished the swap, looks like everything is fine. Also changed some potentiometers (without the housing) and that fixed some weird pegged axis issues. Overall it was quite painful

[@SOSSGAMING]

@@SWATsqad It can be definitely be rough sometimes. But great job on completing it!

[@strongnb136]

@@SOSSGAMING I want to see that I have an issue like 2 months ago taking out that right stick cap Can or should I use 300 celcius as the other sub says?

[@strongnb136]

@@SOSSGAMING I mean the stick rotates but it Just dont come out its like it goles back to its original position

[@MrLuizsaluti]

Have you seen that Xbox Series got an update that allows official calibration through the Accessories app?

[@SOSSGAMING]

I haven't! Do you know if that also include range calibration? That would be great if it did.

[@MrLuizsaluti]

@SOSSGAMING it does include range cal.

[@SOSSGAMING]

@@MrLuizsaluti Awesome! Thanks for the info

[@claytonbich]

Halo Infinite also has the max input threshold option

[@Cognitoman]

Yep

[@guzo116]

Mann, I just replaced my oculus 2 joysticks and they were simple ribbon cables. I was hoping these wouldn’t require soldering iron.

[@KANman43]

Thank you for all that you do

[@xDEADLOCKEDx2468]

The Elite has an auto-calibration system? This is literally privilege under a pricetag why do you do this microsoft. Also can't find any Hyperkin Duke parts anywhere as the left stick is loose, guessing the spring is loosing tension. Great video all the same and a nice look into the internals and differences of an Elite compared to the other usual controllers.

[@upaSilent]

Hi, in my case, after right stick have been replaced, i've had 90% left direction and 100% right direction. After my "pro" investigation i realised that the stick and potentiomenter are fine. The issue that the stick is not well centered by the factory or not well centered during soldering, becouse without thumbstick all parameters were good. Its not comfortable for me to play with agressive curve set in the settings, so the most simple way to fix this for me was removal of the decoration ring aroung the joystick hole in the casing, now all good. The issue is about 0.5-0.8mm of axis centering between the center point of the hole in the casing and the stick, not the potentiometer...(sry for my engl.)

[@SOSSGAMING]

True, that could be one reason for not receiving full range. I'd imagine it's still able to be remedied through adjusting the potentiometer. Doesn't removing the ring feel quite different though?

[@upaSilent]

@@SOSSGAMING if i did not have such sausage fingers, i would go for the way that you advise, adjusting potentiometer🙃. But tiny electronics is my nightmare, so i was looking for the easiest way. Without that ring it doing very nice, like new, i mean 100% all 4 directions, but of course if i rotate the stick 360 deg. at maximum outreach, the thumb-stick touches fixing teeth, but in-game almost never i do this. Maybe im gonna cut them off, will be customised controller. Thank you for this guide, i was in doubt is this problem is common or i’m just unlucky)

[@bluesunschurch8412]

can you please make a video for a Halifax swap for these

[@SOSSGAMING]

I would, but I've tested them and they are not ready/reliable yet :/

[@Walklikelions]

I just bought a core in hopes it would feel the same and it doesnt. Idk what it is about the sticks or theres a little more delay in the controller... Not even input delay really its more like an acceleration delay... It feels like things register fine but I cant find any setting to help it feel more responsive. I might try playing witth all the controllers I have like this.

[@OverLord-OvLd]

Good Video! Have a question: Are there no hall effect sensor for this controller?

[@SOSSGAMING]

Not that I am aware of. I believe the internals are not capable of using hall effect sensors, though I could be wrong.

[@doolallyproductions7234]

Yea im just gonna buy a new controller

[@Fat_Casual]

Awesome Tutorial! But where can I find high Range Sensor Potentiometers? (14:38) I've never heard of those before...

[@SOSSGAMING]

Thanks! The one's shown in the video are from Nintendo Pro controllers. It's honestly a nightmare trying to source them. You might be able to find some on AliExpress, but the white PS4 potentiometers have higher range and will work too. Be careful not to get the "OEM" ones with integrated deadzone.

[@MarkBlackMigo]

Will be nice when EU's right to repair finally puts an end to this corporate greedy bullshit in 2026-2027

[@mugen8602]

Does anyone else feel like the 1537 model of Xbox analog sticks were by far the best? I find that the elite series 2 and the newer variants have way too much resistance and makes pinpoint accuracy and extremely difficult..

[@ivanaviNiebla]

Hi! I was wondering if you had tried to reduce the loosenes of these Elite V2 sticks by modding them or something, because they might be the most wobbly sticks out there. And btw, what are high range potentiometers?

[@SOSSGAMING]

Unfortunately I believe that's because of the design. Not sure there is anything to do about that. The high range potentiometers allow for a higher sensitivity. Meaning less movement on the joystick is more movement in game. I only recommend using them either on the left joystick or when the normal potentiometers just aren't able to give enough range. Hope that helps.

[@ivanaviNiebla]

@@SOSSGAMING Thanks! But where or how do I look for those potentiometers?

[@SOSSGAMING]

​@@ivanaviNiebla I'm not sure you can anymore. But you can try online. Like mouser, or aliexpress. The supplier I had located who had connections to the manufacturer is no longer able to get anymore. It's kind of stressing me out lol. But they're actually not necessary because you can use potentiometers from PS4 joysticks which have higher range than xbox as well. Those ones might even be better for this.

[@ivanaviNiebla]

@@SOSSGAMING Oh thanks, I didn't know that. I just bought Alps for the NS, Xbox and PS4 and PS5 to learn the differences and advantages or disadvantages they have.

[@Alex-or7hu]

I tore down one of the analogs. Theres basically a spring that pushes on a cup to bring it back to center. On my used joystick the cup and the bottom of the housing were NOT worn. I suspect a weak spring may be a large cause of the drift. Was going to cut down a spring and stack them to test ie a helper spring.

[@jomimaro1]

Hi, nice video, do you know If series controller has self calibration? Thanks :)

[@SOSSGAMING]

Yes it does. (Series 2 only, not the Series 1)

[@SOSSGAMING]

@@user-ul6df1vg5z They cannot. I'm hoping xbox introduces this feature in their future standard controller though. It's very nice.

[@richard2667]

@@SOSSGAMING Isn't this standard for almost all other controller brands? I believe most controllers calibrate the center when you turn the controller on. It's easy to test if a controller has auto calibration if you hold the joystick off center when you power it on, as that'll cause it to calibrate off center and basically force stick drift until you turn the controller off and on again. I think this is why stick drift is so common with Xbox controllers despite all major brands using the same ALPS joystick modules.

[@SOSSGAMING]

@@richard2667 No, it's not standard unfortunately (that I'm aware of). Other controller brands have software though that allow you to calibrate with when you open the software. Just not Sony or Microsoft, the two biggest controller manufacturers.

[@CaseyKalogiannis]

OMG Thank you!! Great Video. I never have taken my controller apart. But I do have a issue where the thumb domes were unscrewing themselves while i game. I guess i can take the faceplate off and then apply some loctite to keep them from unthreading? I was worried I broke my controller somehow and would need to replace it.

[@SOSSGAMING]

You could do that but I wouldn't recommend it if you were to ever want to remove them in the future. I would recommend torquing them down really tight (perhaps get some pliers to apply more torque). That's been working for me.

[@z1otis]

Hello, Love the video and your other one about replacing the bumper switches! I have run into a bit of a problem though. I've done everything up until the gamepad testing and when I connect the two boards together the lights turn on but neither the xbox controller app or the gamepad tester site recognize the controller as being connected. Any advice to help me get it working again? Thanks!

[@SOSSGAMING]

I've been getting a few people mention this. One told me they screwed the screws in and it worked, another told me they just waited a while. You may also need to press a button, like a,b,y, x for it to register. Let me know what you find out or if either of those tips worked. So far this is still a mystery.

[@z1otis]

Thanks for the tip, I got it working! Putting everything back together with the screws seemed to do the trick! My only other issue is the thumbstick seems to catch a little bit in some directions. I think maybe its getting a snagged up on the the edge of the potentiometer but Its not enough of a pain to risk breaking anything trying to move it haha thanks again!

[@SOSSGAMING]

@@z1otis Awesome! You put the whole controller together or just the screws? Also, is the thumbstick snagging with the front cover on? If the front cover wasn't on, then that's normal.

[@z1otis]

@@SOSSGAMING The screws didn't work by themselves but with everything back together it started to work. And unfortunately it snags with the cover on, its not too noticeable but definitely different than the other stick.

[@SOSSGAMING]

@@z1otis Thanks for the info. And I'm sorry to hear that. I wonder what it could be. Wondering if the thumbstick isn't tight enough or if the joystick isn't as flush as it could be. That shouldn't happen. Hmmm.

[@jaredhb7706]

I’ve done this before successfully but after this time the joy stick just goes down the entire time. What did I do wrong?

[@SOSSGAMING]

Sounds like a messed up pad. Message my gmail sossgaming cs and I will send of a schematic of a jump wire you can do, if you want.

[@sureshotgazza1127]

how to fix , basically strip to bare bones and rebuild , great job xbox

[@user-hu8op2fh6d]

very helpful thank you A++

[@yc4de754]

Help: I fixed my controller months ago and my rb button wasn’t working, so it took the controller apart and the point, where you solder it too, broke off and I can’t figure how to connect the wire again

[@SOSSGAMING]

Are you talking about the rumble pack wires?

[@christopheradams2966]

Where's the video for srick drift? Left stick just slightly gets stuck on return

[@SOSSGAMING]

I never got a chance to make it. It was just going to be a condensed version. Everything is basically in this video though. Basically just change out the potentiometer causing the issue.

[@FD-ms2nm]

You’re using those pliers backwards. They don’t apply grip like that. You are doing all the work that way. A tool is supposed to work for you. Next time flip the channel locks around and you will see they will be much easier to work with.

[@SOSSGAMING]

Thanks! Someone else also pointed that out to me. Very helpful tip. I feel so dumb for not knowing that before haha

[@Got2belaxxin]

My right joystick just keeps turning. I had no problem getting the other one off, but this one will just not come off for some reason. Any advice? I’m not sure exactly what is causing it so I don’t know how to solve it.

[@SOSSGAMING]

It sounds like the joystick itself may be broken. You may have to find a way to grab a hold of the joystick shaft then remove the dome piece or desolder the joystick piece first. That's just a guess though, as I've not had that happen to me.

[@FD-ms2nm]

Adding flux help it’s stick, you don’t want that when removing solder

[@SOSSGAMING]

That actually makes some sense. Never thought of that. Another useful tip. Thanks!

[@ericmerryman1014]

Just for future reference let people know ahead of time that you can break the joysticks when attempting to unscrew them. Most people who watch this watch the video pause it for a few and repeat. If you say take the joysticks off this way l, then afterwards say “oh and by the way be careful cause you can easily break them well I think you get my point.

[@SOSSGAMING]

Thanks for the input, I didn't realize that could have been an issue but it makes sense. Sorry you had to deal with that! I will definitely take that into account with any future videos.

[@Jugernautz1]

yep definitely broke one of mine trying this out. It was screwed on WAY too tightly.

[@lukebutterfield988]

I think I may have stripped mine because It spins like it's coming off, but it doesn't go anywhere. Is there anything I can do to fix this?

[@wyattsmiths]

​@@lukebutterfield988did you ever get it off. Mine just keeps spinning as well.

[@pastusj05]

​@@wyattsmiths I had the same problem. I just pryed it out with a small screwdriver as it is just held in place by plastic.

[@BenVerschoor-oo4kl]

Awesome video thanks! But unfortunately my controller won’t turn on and I hear a very soft ticking/clicking noice inside when I press The Xbox button. I’ve checked the 2 little black cables that go from the power to the motherboard and they seem to be fine. Do you have any Idea what this could be?

[@justinsexton6659]

Be careful with the removal of the thumsticks i tried to remove them and ripped it into pieces

[@batuhantuter]

Thanks for video. I did a full replacement on the left josytick. When I connected to my Xbox and realized that the Left Stick button is not working it works perfectly fine on all directions. Which pin is the board is for the left stick button? Maybe it is an easy fix and I could just desolder and solder again. Or maybe I damaged the board. I must say I am new at soldering. Do you have any tips to check where it could have went wrong?

[@SOSSGAMING]

The left stick button is the red button on the joystick. The connections are the 4 pins under the that button. It is possible to be a lemon though, and I would also just verify in the accessories app that the Left Joystick Click isn't changed to something else.

[@batuhantuter]

@@SOSSGAMING Thanks for your reply! Desoldering, cleaning and soldering those 4 pins solved the issue. The red button now works. However after playing for 10 mins, now the joystick is stuck at 80% forward. I think there is a problem with the potentiometers.

[@SOSSGAMING]

@@batuhantuter Sometimes installs can be a headache! I'm not sure what 80% could mean. Only time I ever seen that was when there was a crack in the board, but doubt that's what's going on. Is the flux cleaned up pretty good? Are the solder connections good? I would check that before the potentiometer itself. But that could be the next troubleshooting procedure, replacing the potentiometer. On older boards it's easy to damage the through hole pads, but the elite 2's a built much better. Not likely that, but still possible. Had you chopped the nubs off by chance? Wondering if it's just not making good connection.

[@batuhantuter]

@@SOSSGAMING Thank you very much for replying! Turns out there was some flux left between the pins. Cleaning the PCB nicely solved the issue. Now the controller works better than ever. Thank you very much for the great video and also taking the time to write comments and help out. You rock!

[@SOSSGAMING]

@@batuhantuter Awesome! so glad to hear. Thanks for letting me know what solved it. Happy gaming

[@Milanor]

Is it possible to replace the original joystick module with an electromagnetic one?

[@SOSSGAMING]

It may be technically possible, but I'm not aware of one that is out yet that works on xbox

[@oxidynn]

Where could I buy another analogue joystick as I have lost mine

[@SOSSGAMING]

Oh no :/ I have a link to a kit in the description, there are also other sellers on Amazon and eBay that sell some.

[@a1pcg887]

Hello, Thank you for your videos, I disassembled and changed the LB / RB buttons, I have a problem reassembling once I put the screws on the side of the X / Y / A / B buttons, or that I put the case back on, the controller no longer turns on wirelessly, only in USB, I am in France, Do you have any idea of the contact required during assembly... Thank you

[@SOSSGAMING]

Sounds like an issue with the battery. The two cables from the front and back board are for the battery I believe. Make sure they are connected well. I'm not sure if polarity matters (which cable is snapped in to which spot), but it might as well. That's all I can think of at the moment.

[@JoshBryan]

Are you still doing controller repair through your eBay store? You repaired two for us 2 years ago and I have some more for you.

[@SOSSGAMING]

Hey there! Unfortunately I don't anymore, but if you search "xbox conroller repair service" you can find a few who still do.

[@JoshBryan]

@@SOSSGAMING appreciate the response!

[@angelus5012]

Tried but all my irons won’t heat the solder enough to pull the pins out

[@SOSSGAMING]

This solder is really difficult because it is lead-free solder :/ If you haven't, try adding some 60/40 solder to it to soften it up.

[@Darkhalfcustoms]

Don't do this it is not worth the time you can buy the complete replacement board for $50 and have a warranty on it to boot straight from Microsoft. To get good joysticks you will pay $15 to $20 each. You still need to take it apart but then you just slid the board in. you even get new vibration motors with it. Buy the way taking the screw out of the triggers and you can get the small vibration motors out just pop the upper trigger plate off its pegs then the board just lifts right off the alignment pegs and you can just reroute the wires and the kit even comes with the replacement sticker stuff to keep your controller from creaking and popping.

[@xef0083]

I have a 135W soldering iron but some solder just won't melt

[@SOSSGAMING]

Yeah the lead-free solder is quite difficult sometimes :/ I'm wondering if the iron is faulty and just not getting hot enough. Or maybe try adding some leaded solder to it.

[@TheSilentEaglesNest]

at 3:20 to remove the dome pieces, the left thumstick will spin in place. This is why I am trying to replace the piece as this will spin left or right endlessly and cannot be torqued down.

[@SOSSGAMING]

A couple have commented this same issue before. Although I don't recall their solution, I believe you can still remove the motherboard then proceed normally, by either chopping up the joystick (while reaching around the dome piece) then the rest of the joystick. You should then be able to remove the dome piece by using two pliers, one on the dome piece and one holding the joystick shaft that's connected to the dome piece. Hope that makes sense. If you're able and willing, I'd like to see a video and/or picture of what part is broken. No one has been able to confirm what the root of the problem is that causes this. My guess is the shaft of the joystick broke inside somehow. Not sure though.

[@wyattsmiths]

​@@SOSSGAMINGHave you figured out yet why it just keeps spinning when trying to remove? Mine is doing the same.

[@SOSSGAMING]

​@@wyattsmiths No one has told me yet what's going on. Will you be the first? 😅

[@bischbosh111]

I tried following this guide and it was going well until I put my controller back together. My right trigger rumble pack constantly vibrates and I’m not sure why any ideas?

[@SOSSGAMING]

Interesting! It's somehow getting constant power, obviously. My guess is there is a solder bridge between the positive and negative terminals. There could also be a short wherever it is on the controller that switches the rumble on and off (and unfortunately I don't know where that it). You can also check the setting in the accessories app to make sure it's not constantly on somehow. Apart from that I'm not sure what else it could be unfortunately. Worse case you can just turn it off in the accessories app (I believe you can do that) or physically remove it.

[@TylerCroom-xe6ou]

Took a small price of card board stuffed it inbetween that right one that controls up and down and closed it back and works perfect now I kept messing with it like everyone else does until it didn’t work as usual and I figure out will trynna clean it with a q tip that when it’s disconnected it still reacts to the q tip swiping up and down even tho disconnected so stuffed sun in there and I think it’s even more durable lol but that was just for the up and down drift lol hope some of y’all can u derstand what I just said and hope it helps I don’t know how to edit or post vids or I would show it and post as I’m sure I’m the first to ever do this