How to replace Ham receiver Filter Cap Cheap method Drake 2B repair example

[@bmh67wa]

Every Drake 2B I have ever had on the bench was a hummer. This is an excellent way of fixing them without breaking the bank and still making a profit doing the repair without upsetting the customer.

[@timmooney7528]

Great video. It's always nice to find cheaper alternatives to exotic or rare parts.

[@bobblum5973]

Like most repair & restore work, there are trade-offs. Cost versus accuracy, performance or durability, availability of parts. For this video you showed an example of a cost-effective fix for a radio that was in decent enough shape but not necessarily needing to appear factory equivalent. Other videos of yours have shown how to keep things showcase quality. Please keep up the good work for both circumstances! 👍

[@hestheMaster]

Common sense repair tips never get old. Thanks Terry.🍷🍷

[@GhostWorkersComp]

I agree with "he's the Master"... Great common sense repair tip... love it... HUGE savings too. Great video Terry

[@johnstrunck3659]

No can do rafterman. Hayseed Hamfest all the way on my 2B. Your method is a great fix that I have performed in the past. All the best sir!

[@grantMH1]

Great, like the fix - have couple boat anchors all lined up for this fix - seems like there's a way to affix the base to the chassis without holes... The wine looks pretty good, too!

[@CanadairCL44]

It's hummin' 'cos it don't know the words! nice job Terry, I'm looking to do the same thing for a domestic receiver I'm trying to restore.

[@johnnyg1914]

PLEASE I’d love to have the schematic to that puppy. I’ve got a 20 20 20 @450I’d like to wire up . Would you even recommend using this for the 450 and 525v type? Thanks

[@GregsGarage]

I suspect you can use the same method on a tube amp as well???

[@souta95]

I have always used terminal strips to replace caps like this... I never thought to use an octal socket as a tie point. I will have to remember that. I can also see using a Dremel and saving the aluminum can of the original and sliding it over top of the new one for appearance.

[@buddude]

I hollowed out the old can and installed new caps in it. Then applied aluminum tape to close it. Looked pretty much stock when done. However neatly cutting the can open and cleaning out the old cap guts is a tedious and messy process.

[@JasonTHutchinson]

There are other styles of multisection caps out there besides the cans. They are available at lower voltage ratings and are a much cheaper alternative. They can be attached underneath the chassis, and the original can can remain in it's physical location.

[@billyrey9679]

Good job brother. Go Drake! Ditch Hallicrappers!

[@martyyoung598]

I don’t know, Terry, drilling holes and using a tube socket? Where’s the Cobbler guy when you need him? I like what Hayseed, Harbach, and Heathkit Shop are doing and want to support them. A difference of $35 isn’t going to break me! Hi! You know as well as me that neither of us are repairing radios for the money. That’s what the guitar amps are for!

[@PeopleAlreadyDidThis]

With a bit of manual dexterity, I prefer to do the job for $4. Carefully remove the original can, note the capacitances and voltages at each terminal. Neatly sever the can just above the base with a hobby saw or a lathe. I use a lathe, turning the chuck by hand. The tool bit leaves a beveled edge that reassembles almost invisibly. I choose 10- or 12,000 hour, high ripple voltage caps that will fit two-abreast in the can. They’re usually short enough to add the 3rd/4th cap on top. Arrange leads, insulate as needed, strap or heat shrink. Cut out the old cap foil, leaving some of the terminal strap, fold it over to secure the terminals. Drill holes through the base for each + lead next to its terminal, a hole in the center for the combined - leads. Mount the new cap assembly, passing leads through holes, solder leads to terminals. Install unit, ground the - leads with a reasonably heavy gauge wire. Test, reinstall the can with a couple of tiny drops of epoxy. By the time you install terminal strips or build the tube socket approach, it doesn’t take much longer. The next guy doesn’t have to figure out what somebody did. Pencil a note giving the date you restuffed the can.

[@rustycalvera977]

For a beginner do- it- at- homer enthusiast (me), would anyone know what capacitor range would be needed on a decent multi meter to test the various range of caps found on an old Kenwood stereo receiver?

[@gulsayyar5430]

Hi I got Zenith Radio 1947 and it needs restored. I live in Ireland do you know anywhere that can do this for me? Many thanks

[@kornami8678]

Good deal. Suggestion: How about mounting the caps on an octal plug and then plugging that into the octal socket that you mounted on the chassis?

[@buildstoys]

Great tips Terry, thanks!

[@williamthrasher8540]

I was able to visit the Drake Factory as a tech student back in 1963. I would have like to have had job there after graduation but it not happen.

[@tiki_trash]

I LOVE YOU D-LAB! don't you ever change.

[@1967250s]

May I ask where you get your caps?

[@mohinderkaur6671]

Restuff the original capacitor. Maintains original look and is even cheaper. No socket needed . Remove original cap .Cut with hacksaw near the base to remove the can , Heat can to remove junk. Clean base.drill base to pass cap leads, put new caps on base. put can on top . glue can with superglue or epoxy( not jbweld) to base. While at it, add an audio takeoff from the volume control.

[@dhpbear2]

3:35 - Is that a COPPER chassis? :)

[@buddude]

Copper plated steel

[@Wade6242]

"not because it's happy" made me laugh

[@philipchandler330]

Excellant

[@bradbeasley7669]

excellent

[@richysradioroom]

👍

[@rca7591a]

No manual? Take a picture or pictures. I've got several pairs of snips just like those.

[@DeadKoby]

No hate on that method... I've been known to put a terminal strip on an existing bolt, and then put separate caps on that... then the "originality enthusiasts" cringe a bit less. The multisection caps indeed are expensive, so I know where you're coming from on this.

[@cchavez248]

terry...!! Emailed you, did you receive? Thank you.

[@johnsweda2999]

It's humming because it doesn't know the tune not because it's happy

[@russellhltn1396]

The purist in me cringes on drilling holes as the removes the option of being faithfully restored in the future.

[@kornami8678]

This is not like restoring a vintage Corvette where you want all the part numbers to match. The purist in me would balk at defacing the face plate, but as far as the insides go, it makes little difference.

[@nr3rful]

The more wine you drink the louder the hum is.....

[@daveogarf]

I hope the Snozzeramus doesn't go all KAREN on you for not using it in this installment! They tend to get noisy and go all self-righteous and lick windows and stuff.

[@justinurness]

I wish you were my uncle