How to Replace Torn Strut Mount - MINI Cooper 2002-2006 R50-R53

[@ModMINI]

A torn strut mount bushing is a very common problem on older MINI Coopers. (Process is nearly identical for all MINI Coopers of all years.) Mod MINI's Tools: amzn.to/2QEMznK Gen 1 MINI Cooper Parts: amzn.to/2AMemOk Mod MINI Tip jar: www.fundly.com/mod-mini-tip-jar See all the Mod MINI Videos on my channel: kzbin.info

[@stephenturkLA]

Thanks for the video. I did this last year, including replacing the struts and shocks with a full set of Koni FSD. I think most of the damage to the strut mount bushing happened when I hit a big pothole. Because the old struts were badly worn, they bottomed out which transferred the impact to the mount. So, if you are replacing mounts, do check your struts before reinstalling them.

[@ecnarfi]

Thanks for this guide, sorted this on my '04 R52 yesterday afternoon 👍 My top tip is to slightly loosen the bolt which holds the top mount to the shock before doing anything else. Without doing that, once it was out I had no way to stop the shock from spinning when trying to loosen it.

[@isaacburlo9547]

Totally correct about that bolt being easy to strip, that sucker broke right off. I had to drill all the way through and use a nut/bolt combo. Good video!

[@ModMINI]

I've had to do that once or twice. Fortunately the bolt is soft. I was able to save the threads, just drilled through center of bolt and collapsed the shell in on itself.

[@pedlerw]

@@ModMINI what is the best source and part number for replacing that bolt?

[@garyb7658]

Loving the rate that you are uploading new content Kurt. Good to see you keeping busy! You have been the inspiration for my rebuild mission of my 04 Mini Cooper S! Thanks

[@JohnWasser]

I did this on my ‘03 JCW. While I had things apart I replaced the struts with the Bilstein “Touring Class” replacements, replaced the upper and lower spring seats, and put reinforcing plates in the towers to prevent further mushrooming. The springs and upper spring plates were the only parts left unchanged.

[@sep_vs_theworld]

Fantastic Video. helped me change mine easily. One thing to mention that happened to me, was after it put everything back together i was getting ABS, Traction, And tire pressure lights on the dash. only thing that fixed it for me was reseting the tire pressure with the button by the brake lever. Not sure if this is normal when you pull the tires etc. but after a reset and a quick drive it went away. Great video

[@markcunningham8142]

Thanks for taking the time to do these videos. It has saved me a lot of headaches.

[@sophia_rose]

I really appreciate all that you provide on this channel. You're making it possible for me to have a good experience while getting my first car, (04 base, manual) roadworthy. I really hope you can continue to make your videos! Thank you so much!!

[@fatratvlog809]

I could not get the strut to compress enough to get it out, after no luck with a few different spring compressors I found a good ratchet strap hooked over the top of the strut to the metal bracket to hold the brake line managed to shorten it enough to get it clear from the wheel arch. Thanks for the video, gave me the confidence to change mine.

[@Oldguytechreview]

Absolutely the best R53 videos ever!!!

[@derekbond3512]

You are by far the best at explaining and visual on this procedure, i now know what to expect when i replace my shocks.Thanks for your time on making this video.

[@OverflowOFGames]

When I first changed my strut tops I overlooked the end link because I didn't realize there were flat spots to grip onto, so I under tightened it unknowingly because the stud kept spinning, then the noise you spoke of slowly got louder and louder until I finally figured it out like a month later. It was probably the most obnoxious thing I've ever experienced with my mini, even if you hit a pebble, it would sound like you drove off a cliff.

[@budlawrence4847]

Thank you I just bought an 05 R50 as a project car and the passenger side has been making clunking and creaking noise. Your video helped me see that it was coming apart so this is my first stab at replacing suspension parts like this. I’ll need to rent a spring compressor when I pick up a strut mount. Thanks again your videos are very helpful. Stay safe my friend!

[@leospaceman2976]

Did that help w your problem? I’m having a similar noise on the front-right corner. At first i thought it was a creaky steering column.

[@andy1056]

Thank you. This looks much simpler than I thought it would be, and some great tips as well.

[@rmoore911]

Great video as always. I have to do the same thing to my R53 right now. Unfortunately for me, I have a herniated disc which is preventing me from working on it, so I have to take it to this small garage to have someone do it for me. Which really sucks because I feel I should be able to do this job easily, and your video proves it's a simple procedure. With my car having 115k miles on it, I'm just redoing both struts and mnounts and got all new parts for it. Maybe in the spring, when my back is better, I can do the rear as well so I have mostly all new suspension in my baby.

[@ModMINI]

Do the control arms bushings too, that will make car feel like new.

[@emeraldaisle2927]

Thank you. I saw this video and the other about the drive axles/ CV joints and did all that work by myself. You are very clear in thought, speech, presentation and your method.

[@paullee2177]

My 2006 Mini Cooper S has 94k on it. Very clear procedure that I have saved for future use. Just subscribed so I am looking forward to you future videos.

[@JamalSpelling]

Great stuff thank you.. I ended up doing the front and rear struts, replacing them with Koni Active components. I ordered them from Jeg's, and they were drop shipped from Koni. The shipments were a complete disaster. The boxes were torn, ripped, broken, and the parts arrived poking out of the box, there was no inner packing. The tabs were bent and the threads damaged on one strut. I fixed everything up, and cleaned the threads and got everything installed in an afternoon. The biggest time waster was the right side 2-part axle, which popped out of the intermediate joint, I fenagled it back in and it popped out again, so I fenagled it back in. At this point I zip tied/wired the pinch bolt area so it wouldn't fall back since I had wasted almost 30 minutes trying to fit the axle back in to the intermediate joint (twice). The ball joints and other components were pretty worn, so there was a lot of play in the steering knuckle/hub assembly and it was flopping around pretty easy. Also disconnected the swaybar endlink from the strut instead of the sway bar, and after getting tired of it flopping around, I ziptied it it to the brake line mount. I'm glad I did the right side first, so I repeated the procedure on the left side, which probably saved me from breaking the electronic arm sensor which may have broken if the steering kuckle/wheel hub assembly was all flopping around like it was on the right side. I discovered lots of worn parts that need to be replaced, and a severly cracked brake line only on the driver side. The 2nd biggest time waster was trying to get the little caps back over the front strut nut, this was at least 20 mins. I did use the Cravenspeed Indurators and got it all back together with a few hiccups. Everything else I did on this '06 JCW Cooper S, literally broke or fell apart in my hands. This is the biggest POS ever, it was designed as a disposeable car and only an idiot like myself would try to keep this car in good order. But since it was custom built and I waited a year for delivery, I guess I'm stuck with it for the long haul. Geez, did I say what a F'king POS this stupid car is, literally everything is broken after 16 years and 200k miles. That said, still handled great even before I replaced the struts. It's hard to believe even with the strut mount completely wasted and absolutely no front suspension upper mount, it still cornered fantastic, how is this possible?

[@garza7676]

Thank you for taking the time to make this video .I'm changing my front struts this weekend .I just need to remember to wash the underside before doing it .

[@Globbs]

Much easier than I expected. Thank you for the video.

[@isidroestrada1005]

I just want to thank you over and over for making these videos. You saved my butt several times. Would love to meet you guys if I’m ever in the west side.

[@ModMINI]

Thanks! You guys? Who else is there? Is there someone else helping out in the shop I don't know about? Lol

[@isidroestrada1005]

I thought someone would help you hold the camera. Sorry. You rock!

[@numba1cam]

How ironic. I'm going to be doing mine again on my r53. Less than 6 months ago I did replaced them with Monroe brand and they are worse than the originals. So this time I am using lemforder brand. Hopefully it lasts longer. Thanks for the vids and keep up the good work!

[@tombanes]

My KYB mounts were horrible and stretched as soon as I put them on .so yes I change them and put Lemforders on too. You can change them easily without taking the struts off again. Just those same exact spring compressors on the car, undo the top end link, And compressed Them just very little . there is hardly any tension on them when they’re fully extended. There was enough clearance to get the strut mounts up and out over the top of the strut. good luck.

[@mazzapatrick]

@@tombanes I might be doing that exact thing soon here. I want to use my 18V impact driver on the top nut but question its torque ability. Did you use a power tool? It's only me and some posts say 2 people needed. ('04 base)

[@robertsetting7036]

Awesome video I'm going to do this and my brakes because of your videos! Very calm and explained in a great manner. Thank you!

[@alfatangokilo]

After the exchange, I had a problem. On the right, there is a squeaking and creaking noise when turning, especially during maneuvers in the parking lot. It's a grinding noise against rubber, I took it apart again and lubricated the spring rubber saddle with silicone, but it didn't change anything. Symptoms worsen as the outside temperature drops. Sometimes you can listen and even feel in the car something tense and suddenly shoot, releasing the tension. Observing the work of the strut mounting rubber, you can see that the rubber is working and these sounds are related to its movement. These noises can be heard even more inside the cabin than outside. I did the repair without removing the shock absorber. I want to disassemble it again but there aren't many parts there, so I guess nothing is put together wrong. What could be causing this?

[@allantetreault5312]

Awesome tutorial my friend, I’ll be changing mine this weekend!

[@kaleemjabar5825]

Nice! Thank you. Now I understand what & how to do the job myself on my 2003 Mini.

[@jimgia]

Just to let people (do it yourself owners like me) - know they really don't need any special tools like the Pass Through Socket Set (great for full-time mechanics) to remove the Sway Bar Linkage, or the Spreader Tool for the knuckle clamps to loosen the bottom of the struts from the hubs. 1). The backside of the Sway Bar link bolts have machined flats that can take a 17mm open end wrench, to hold the linkage bolts to keep them from spinning while the nuts are loosened. So no need for an open-end socket to insert a hex wrench in there to hold it. 2). And the bottom strut clamp on the Hub Carrier can be opened up with a medium side flat heat screwdriver hammered into the clamp. And spraying some penatrating oil in the strut / hub carrier clamp will help it slide out more easily. I've been running H&R lowered Sport Springs on first my Gen 1 Mini, and then on my current Gen 2 to make it look and handle so much better. But I made a big mistake in retrospect, in ordering the original Mini HD Sport Suspension with my Gen 2 Mini back in 2012. I assume this is what came on the John Cooper Works option? Either way, it kept the stock ride height and increased the spring rate and added much stiffer shock damping and it handled horrible on the street - way too stiff and bone jaring, and the car sat way too tall in ride hight for good cornering. So I immediately installedwhen it was new, the H&R lowered sport springs and it handled and cornered much better, but the OEM Mini HD shocks / struts still rode terrible and are too harsh on public roads. I hated it! Then I drove a buddy's Gen 2 Mini that was set up for Autocross with H&R Springs and Bilstein Sport shocks and it handeled and rode so much better. So I went and ordered for my car new Bilstein Stage 3, B12 Pro Kit "Nurburgring" Shocks and Struts. These are shorter units with less travel to compliment the shorter H&R springs, with much larger diameter strut shafts for the demands of racing. The damping is firm as you would expect for a racing shock, but these Bilsteins still ride much smoother and are more complient, and with much better car control than the OEM Mini HD and Standard Struts & Shocks. I highly recommed switching to Bilsteins Stage 1 Street, Stage 2 Sport, and Stage 3 Sport & Track for any Mini shock and strut replacement. And the Bilsteins are not that expensive. You can get a set of 4 under $1000. And get the H&R lowered Sport Srings as well for better handling and looks. I buy my suspenison and Brake components from Tire Rack, who has among the best prices and fastest delivery. Enjoy the improved ride!

[@Facethruster]

Your videos are so helpful, thank you so much for taking the time to explain in great detail.

[@adrianperezsr.6683]

please keep making mini repair videos...Also talk videos on common topics would be GREAT!

[@ModMINI]

interesting idea. What would you consider to be a common topic?

[@adrianperezsr.6683]

First of all thank you very much I know I speak for everyone else we all love this channel and we like watching your videos the way you make it look so easy... answering your question maybe you could talk of how you set all the parts aside and remember, that’s short of amazing.. How you remember to put all the parts , and every bolt back .. And of course I think once you’re recording it will manifest, every day mechanical issues , talk of that

[@adrianperezsr.6683]

@@ModMINI I just purchased a 2nd gen 2008 clubman s, The first thing I feel I should do is an oil catch can. Whats your take on that? will it help? I hear its really simple? will you make us a video??

[@ModMINI]

@@adrianperezsr.6683I honestly think they are snake oil. I rarely see them and most MINIs (most cars for that matter) do perfectly fine without them. I have only ever installed one in the last 5+ years, and I very rarely see them on cars that I work on. Spend your money on something else.

[@crysrose516]

Thanks for the help!!! Made changing the struts a lot easier!!

[@gvnthomas]

Dude I love your channel and the work you do on your Mini, wish I had a place to work on mine as doing it on an inclined street isn't the best idea lol

[@vasileiouevangelos8]

Guess what...you don't need to put floor jacks on the back wheels mha mha mha ha ... But on the other hand you can't fix the front wheels cause it's inclined too...🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔

[@honeyforce996]

The videos just keep coming and coming :D Hope you're getting settled into the new place

[@PDillz]

Washatonian love. Subscribed, plan to get a mini Cooper S any day now. You're videos will help big time. Maybe you can be my mechanic as well lol

[@alnorth4468]

You are a life saver sir. Many thanks

[@dpm6000]

Very helpful, thanks. Local shop wants $500 for this. No way! Question on the alignment change. Is that because of fixing the mushrooming or because the worn mounts are off center or just a general good practice?

[@tangles01]

So I too do how to type vids. I saw this, as I diagnosed the mount as faulty. I decided not to film as this is the perfect video for this and I'd rather people see yours instead of mine.

[@mazzapatrick]

Thanks for this video. I might be doing this very soon. You think an 18V Ryobi driver has enough torque? If not any lower cost model rec?

[@jujuchiha]

This video is perfect. Everything thing I needed to know

[@VeliMilan]

Thank you for a great video! I have torn strut mount on passenger side (R50) and will be replugging it soon. Should I go ahead and replace one on driver's side as well or it's ok to leave it if it isn't broken?

[@ModMINI]

Depends how much work you want to do. They don't always fail at same time.

[@AndrewPaul]

Love this channel - it's already helped me loads in trying to restore a 2003 R50 Mini Cooper. That said I've made a balls and I'm stuck - I was removing the rear shocks and I've managed to shear the two 13mm bolts which secure the top of the strut assembly to the body of the vehicle on the passenger side. They've sheared around 5mm inside the hole. The other side came out easily with no issues! Now, as there's no head the strut was able to be removed but now I can't get the new one mounted in on that side and as the sway bar etc is in the way, access is very limited. Any help or suggestions would be most gratefully received. All the best from the UK :)

[@ModMINI]

You'll have to drill and back them out. Use something like this. amzn.to/2LwnTih

[@AndrewPaul]

@@ModMINI Thank you very much my friend! :)

[@joshuajarvis6420]

My lower control arm on the passenger side hits the subframe before it drops low enough to remove the strut. Any suggestions on how to fix that problem? There is signs of a fender Bender on the side, but nothing severe.

[@bandwshien]

Great video! I was trying this procedure the other day. Found it really hard to drop the wheel hub away from the bottom the strut, still have a 1 inch left inside. It felt there is a hard stop. Any tips and tricks?

[@KoJawn]

Should I be greasing the bearing in the strut mount I have gone through several sets of strut mounts and they all seem to rip themselves apart? Good thing I purchased Moog with a lifetime warranty so I've only had to pay for them once but they keep failing they only last about a year.

[@717jonpaul]

I was wondering if is possible just to lower the struts with out being taken out?

[@717jonpaul]

Also on the rubber bushing replacements..I did t get to see how they fit in.

[@Larutanton]

Hey been catching up on your videos, new sub here, my 06’ S loves you, did struts, exhaust(borla), intake system(DDMworks), next is supercharger pulley 15%,water pump, and service...for convenience I may take to a shop, so far 2 I’ve asked, gave 1200dollars total(this guy was questionable, not gonna do it) then a specialty shop that knew what I was doing and offered to get my pulley kit, 1400 total, water pump, oil, belt etc. so far it would at least be 400+ for me alone, do to tools, thanks for your ever lasting videos, that are extremely relaxing to watch, I would pay you for any car work if you were near, np👌👊🏼👍oh forgot mine strut bears were torn, first time I ever looked, thanks, do have a inner brace you mentioned going in for support, thanks oh man thanks!

[@joebell4329]

Great video, just done this job on my r53 but I now get a sort of grinding sound when I go full lock on one side from the corner I replaced. Any suggestions please?

[@ModMINI]

Bad mount?

[@joebell4329]

@@ModMINI weirdly enough after about a week of driving the sound completely disappeared and it’s been perfect ever since not really sure what it was. I’ve had the wheel off to check the back of the rim and all the suspension bits and no signs of scrapes

[@shimaze5479]

At 2:05, when I push down on the collar, there is still an inch of strut left in the collar. There is NO WAY to pull the control arm down any lower! The bottom of the strut is loose in the collar, but there is just too much strut down in the collar. I am going to try removing the outer ball joint so I can lower the steering knuckle down a little bit more and get the strut out. I am removing the Koni Reds that I installed last year to add washers to the top of the strut shaft to tighten up the strut mount. The strut mount wobbled after I assembled the struts. I think the wobble in the mount is what is causing the knock in the front end and the general junky feeling of the car when I go over bumps and imperfection in the road

[@oliver5403]

Do you ever have a problem with the rubber pushing out of the bracket Housing rather than cracking? I have replaced two of these on the same side in the last two months.

[@ModMINI]

I suppose that's possible

[@tm5346]

2013 mini I have a little white smoke? I see it come out of almost every car ? Mechanic said that something is terribly wrong I don’t believe that I see it all the time I do not see any oil I am becoming a mechanic TYI thanks to your video & 2 others

[@accessgastroclinic8919]

Sir how do I align the nut that is on top of strut mount so that’s it’s centered …

[@petshopb]

Does this apply to 2001 cooper as well?

[@DHEvans]

Good job and well explained but when I attempt this the 13 mm bolts just spin the the stud inside the strut mount. Is there a technique to overcome this or must I find a way to remove the spring while the strut remains in place ?

[@ModMINI]

Probably broken and need to be drilled out

[@jeffreyhernandez92]

Hey i have a question regarding if u have Any Video on The replacement of Rocker Panel (Black Plastic, under the door) of Mini Cooper 04? Thanks

[@sidewalkMCS]

right hand side (uk drivers side) usually goes easily like in your video, but the left hand side just always doesn't. i have to take the whole assembly removing the axel etc. Any tips for us RHD drivers by chance?

[@ModMINI]

You have to remove axle to remove strut?

[@sidewalkMCS]

@@ModMINI I can detach the strut top from the car, but to remove it from the knuckle then the car, I always end up having to remove the whole knuckle assembly. Lots of website say they can just hammer out the strut from the knuckle, but I find it impossible. Wonder if there is anything I'm missing, or this is due to different in RHD/LHD cars? My car is R52 JCW 6MT/RHD.

[@ModMINI]

@@sidewalkMCS LHD or RHD should make no difference. Some cars are easier than others but I've always been able to pop it out without ever removing an axle. Outer ball joint, maybe when I was less experienced. To remove strut, leave top connected to car (3 - 13mm bolts). Loosen pinch bolt on bottom. Hammer down until falls out (or almost out). Using a pry bar if necessary, Tilt knuckle forward and slightly out, and pull bottom of strut forward until it clears. I think I do it this way in the video. You just need to figure where to apply the force and in what directions.

[@sidewalkMCS]

@@ModMINI Thanks for the advice! It's good to know there shouldn't be any difference in LHD/RHD cars, I'll be doing my mum's MINI this week, I'll see if I can try without removing the whole knuckle assembly. Thank you as always for brilliant videos!!! You are god!

[@chrisf5475]

I thought this looked easy but my control arm would not drop low enough to get the strut out… sway bar was disconnected and both sides jacked so not sure why…

[@shimaze5479]

Is it possible for the inner CV joints to pop out of the joint carrier when doing this? I can't get the CV shaft to move in towards the center of the car. It seems as if the CV shaft has come apart!

[@ModMINI]

Sometimes. Give it a twist while pulling

[@sightsandsoundsofthenapava2997]

I found that my front shock mount replacements had a bit of movement/wobble. Is that normal? movement is 1-2mm.

[@lukesherrill2499]

I see that you’ve listed which strut mount part to buy, but I was looking to find a complete strut mount and spring assembly. Any recommendations on which brand is best for the part? I couldn’t find one made by Lemforder. Thanks!

[@ModMINI]

I don't know that complete assemblies are sold that are decent quality.

[@AngelaPerez-ie4gy]

We just did this job and two days later the new strut mount that was installed already pretty much broke and the rubber stretched and bulged up worse than the original we replaced can you tell me what can be causing a new strut mount to brake so fast.

[@ModMINI]

Bad quality replacement part.

[@vasileiouevangelos8]

Hi l have seen a lot of your videos and l have taken a lot of ideas truth be told...but l would like to make a video in greek language completely...do you believe it is a good idea ? I am asking you cause the videos look kind of identical apart from a couple of tips l added myself that helped me during the installing ( uhhh boy... l don't know about you but l had a real bad day when putting the column inside the hole without the tricks l added as l told you ).

[@estergrant6713]

how tight should the top nut on the strut be?

[@mohammadkamran5862]

Thank you.

[@poff9345]

Superb video

[@therealpeterburke]

hmm - could that bearing be a source of a slight notchy resistance in my power steering when it is cold? Car has a brand new PS pump since recall and works fine until the temps drop below 40F - cold weather and I will sense some strange resistance in the steering in parking lots where you turn in more than on the open road. The resistance feels like bad teeth in a geared setup. I never thought of this bearing to possibly be the source until I heard you say this is turning when you turn the wheel.

[@ModMINI]

Either that or bad steering column universal joint or a problem in the steering rack.

[@oswaldokordell6812]

👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽 excelente video !!!

[@miguelangelmonterocorderom1835]

I hace problem in mi radiator

[@starcitizenmodding4436]

My brother took my car and crashed it. He hit just the wheel , no body damage. but it looked bad the wheel was pushed into the car. ive changed all the steering components even the suspension. but it doesn't feel quite right. could the main frame be bent?

[@ModMINI]

Did you change control arm? That usually bends.

[@starcitizenmodding4436]

@@ModMINI yes. It did "bend". i changed the control arm and two more parts that connect to it. im not sure of the names. i understand you wouldn't be able to diagnose over the net. i was just wondering if there might be some obvious reason. Thanks for the reply.

[@ModMINI]

@@starcitizenmodding4436 You might have more damage than you think. Try replacing subframe. If you find that it doesn't line up with the body/frame bolting points, you'll know for sure.

[@NelsonQuintansdaSilva]

Does anyone know a good video of the rear ones? thanks

[@ModMINI]

There is no rubber strut mount in the rear.

[@NelsonQuintansdaSilva]

@@ModMINI i was talking about those little rubbers that need to change in the rear shocks...

[@alfredvalrie5541]

Do the indurators prevent this from happening?

[@ModMINI]

They can prevent strut tower deformation but won't prevent the bushing from cracking.

[@alfredvalrie5541]

Mod MINI ah, rubber

[@jayhiz3514]

When are you going to do the 2004 mini CVT rebuild video? Lol

[@ModMINI]

Step 1. Remove CVT. Step 2. Install 6 speed from a Cooper S

[@stevem7924]

@@ModMINI - Would be interested in seeing what's involved in this upgrade if it's actually feasible.

[@ModMINI]

Steve M at this point it would have to be a pretty special R50. They just aren’t worth it (worth enough) anymore

[@stevem7924]

@@ModMINI Kinda what I thought. Mine is a special edition 2006 R53 which I recently acquired, so was curious. Thanks for the reply

[@NipunDhanraj]

👍👍👍👍

[@Ryantg3611]

5:52

[@craighstar7425]

question why you don’t replace the whole Strut?

[@ModMINI]

This isn't a Toyota Camry. This a performance handling car and it would be a lot more money to replace the front struts.

[@plantfittermobilerepair9125]

Iv never seen such a load of old bollocks these can be changed in 10 min flat

[@ModMINI]

Thank you for your eloquent opinion