How to Restore a Stanley hand plane

Stanley Bailey no 4 hand plane restoration . From rusty junk to a beautiful working tool.
The 17 degree chisel
• The 17 degree chisel
Restoration old school ruler
• Restoration old school...

[@rvburbank1]

Good job restoring your plane, Stanley didn't start making planes in the UK until 1937. That particular example would be a type 3 made between 1945-1972. Time Tested Tools has a small type study on the Engish made planes. All Stanley Bailey pattern planes made before WW2 would have rosewood knobs.

[@sionhughes5543]

Thank you for your comment. When dating that plane I followed a Stanley flow chart but as you and many others have pointed out I have clearly gone wrong somewhere. There are a lot of very interesting feedback in the comments to this video . It works beautifully and gets used on practically every project . Hope you enjoyed the video and It gave you some ideas for restoration tips . Please consider subscribing as I would really appreciate your support. Cheers Sion

[@airnashville3883]

I'm guessing very close to the end of it's production date, late 60s-early 70s given it appears the interior is painted and both the paint in the plane bed and on the lever cap appear so new and bright. While rusty, this plane saw almost no action given the relative pristine wooden parts, frog and adjusting lever.

[@kudnabeefhooked5285]

Absolutely brilliant. You've inspired me to have a crack at one myself. However, if you think getting good quality supplies is difficult in the UK, spare a thought for those of us in the Antipodes. It's nigh on impossible unless you get it shipped from overseas.

[@sionhughes5543]

I’m so glad you enjoyed the video and pleased to hear you feel inspired to go in restore one of your own hand planes. Are you in Australia or New Zealand?

[@_BigLife_]

Nicely done. I wish i would have seen this video just a few days ago before I restored a Sedgley N⁰4 that my buddy from England sent me. The use of the depth adjustment knob to tighten the wooden knob down for sanding would have saved me a trip to the hardware store. Great video, new Subscriber.

[@sionhughes5543]

I so glad you watched and enjoyed the video. It’s very therapeutic restoring these old tools and they work beautifully once restored. Cheers Sion and I really appreciate the subscription. There are over 60 other videos on my channel, enjoy

[@_BigLife_]

@sionhughes5543 I will definitely check out your other videos. If you are interested I would love to hear your thoughts on my Sedgley N⁰4 restoration. The video is up on my channel.

[@adnanhussain5095]

This was a very satisfying watch. My favourite part was the stone sanding, seeing the changes from 400grit going on to the 1k then the 16k . The finish was absolutely sublime 👏 great restoration, 91 years old, I can argue it's better now than the day it left the factory.

[@sionhughes5543]

Thanks again for all your kind comments. You will see that hand plane being used in lots of videos .It performs as well as it looks.

[@pauldixon6654]

OOOW . now then sir. shellac would look and give it a real nice look. What a lovely looking number 4. the amount of work you have put in is definitely better than the day it left the works. Well done. thanks for sharing.

[@sionhughes5543]

Such kind words and most appreciated. Thank you . Cheers Sion

[@bigviper64]

Other videos that I’ve watched use a slab of Granite (like a large Granite Tile) or a large sheet of glass, then they put the sandpaper on that so they get an even sanding of the plate.

[@sionhughes5543]

That system will certainly work. However, I used a diamond plate because it was a small plain got a wonderful result and haven’t seen anybody else do it.

[@CarlosGomez-rn4hh]

Very instructional video. Thank you!

[@sionhughes5543]

I’m really glad you enjoyed it. Please consider subscribing and have a look at my channel as there’s lots of videos that you might find useful. Cheers Sion

[@garethwatkins8854]

Great video,really enjoyed it, great choice of background music.

[@sionhughes5543]

Why thank you Gareth . Really appreciate the kind words . Cheers Sion

[@adamtheroofer3659]

I have restored many many #4 planes. The way I see it is “It’s your Plane!” But there were a few things that you may have slightly missed steps on. One is that is not English oak it’s beech handles. A lot of wooden planes and saw handles were also made from beech as it is a very stable and solid wood. Also very desirable. Most of the handles that are sought after are Rosewood which is hard to come by and is usually a foreign imposter nowadays! :). I do love that you lapped the sole and the sides. I hope you checked to make sure the sides were square to the sole??? This would enable you to shoot with the plane on a small shooting board and not have to adjust the lateral out of square. I would say the biggest thing I would normally have done is to lap the sole with the plane assembled because then it would be in tension which could alter the casting just slightly. After all the work you out into it I am sure you don’t want to take it back to a stone and see that it may not be flat when you are actually using it. I didn’t catch if you addressed the chip breaker mating with the blade? During the sharpening process did you feather your corners? So one of my personal pet peeves are when a person finishes a plane and then shows it taking shavings off the edge of a board. A number four can be used for that a la Paul Sellers, but it is intended for smoothing. You took the time to put that polish on the blade but I bet after you had it set up you wondered why it may have left ridges in the finish when you tried to smooth with it. That would be from not feathering the corners ever so slightly. Do that and your plane tracks will go away and you will fall in love with the beast all over again. You are the first person whom I have ever seen “dome” the brass nut for the front knob. A little stain and shellac would have made the handles a little more true to the restoration but I do not see that as a miss because it is your style and what ever floats the boat you own then have at it. The tote having the nut sticking out is a tell tale sign that either the handle has shrunk or it’s been altered. I’d also put a little 3 in 1 oil or grease in all the screw connections. I like the lever cap paint and think you nailed that color. The gold touch on the letters isn’t original but does give it a classic look and is nice as well. Keep it up and good job!

[@sionhughes5543]

Your right about the wood for the handles . My mistake . I have since put a slight camber on the blade and it doesn’t leave tracks . I made a video called ( Oak flooring makes cupboard doors ) in which I use that very plane extensively for jointing and smoothing oak . It left a beautiful finish . Thank you for taking the time to comment

[@sionhughes5543]

I followed Rob Cosman regarding how I set up that plane and the chip breaker I borrowed from my No 5 had been pre flattened .

[@adamtheroofer3659]

Sion Hughes Colman if fairly good on that and I do like his sharpening style. He favors the #5 Wood River. He has recently come out with a propeller style adjuster knob which I caught sight of and asked him about in a previous video. I think this prompted his recent video on the design and when they are going to sell them. I’d do a quick pass with a fine grit diamond stone with the plane put together and tensioned with the blade retracted and see if the bottom does move. The ductile iron may be good. I had a paragon plane that was polished to a mirror finish and was beautiful. But when I used it, it would heat up and distort. Blew my mind. The cut would get weird and I couldn’t rely on the plane finish. I love the look but shelved the plane. It is listed as a vintage premium plane. Let me know if you find a difference when the plane is in tension. I have always lapped the soles with the plane put together completely. Hope all is well.

[@sionhughes5543]

@@adamtheroofer3659 I have to say it performs beautifully on hard and soft woods . Love Rob Cosman

[@darrylportelli]

most people advise that the plane bottom and sides are perfectly 90degrees ... this is not actually needed and nothing is wrong if it is slightly off because if you're using it on a shooting board , you can easily adjust using the lateral adjustment lever to get it to a perfect 90 degree cut

[@martymartinez4930]

Very nice, well shot, and edited video. I have restored hundreds of Stanley hand planes. Necessity for “Dead flat sole” is a myth, as is the “you must have the frog, in place and tight to lap flat”. You do want the front of the mouth flat and supported. Rust Removers work best if all the parts are first cleaned in hot water and degreaser, to allow the chemicals to access the rust and metal. I scrape off rust with a single edge razor blade and stainless-steel brush, prior to degreasing. I use vinegar to soak, but only for about 20-30 minutes, scrub well with Scotch Brite, synthetic steel wool in hot soapy water, (dish soap) to remove softened rust. Once clean soak again in hot water and ounce of Baking Soda to neutralize the acid. Baking soda soak/neutralization will also minimize flash rust. Vinegar will not destroy cast iron as is often quoted, I have use it for years without issue. Do not long-term soak, it is an acid. All parts are then sanded or stainless-steel brush finished and polished if needed. I lap with 60 grit sandpaper glued to marble, to get to flat, with frog, removed, Knob and tote in place, it does not take long. Note, marble is not “perfectly” flat, but close enough. Knobs and Totes routinely shrink, just drill the nut hole a bit deeper, you may need to grind the rod a bit shorter to compensate for the amount of drilling. I find thinned Linseed oil on Beach and Rosewood darkens, produces a nice finish and protects the wood. Wax over linseed is a nice grippy finish. I put 3-4 coats of linseed of a couple days, it will darken with each application. The “type study” does not apply to Stanley planes made in England and is at best a “guide”.

[@sionhughes5543]

That’s all excellent advice and I will refer to this comment when I next restore a plane . Thanks for such a comprehensive guide to quality restorations . Cheers Sion

[@leslieandrews6324]

Looks great. Why am I the only one who uses white vinegar in the oven at 350° F for 2 - 3 hours to remove everything rust, paint.

[@sionhughes5543]

Having never herd of that technique I shall at some point try it .

[@4Truth4All]

Nice work! I'm restoring a few Stanley planes and picked-up some great tips from your effort.

[@sionhughes5543]

What a lovely comment. Good luck Lonnie with your restorations. It’s actually a great way to give yourself a quality tool without the high price tag . I have an old no7 which I bought on eBay because I need one for jointing and I am really looking forward to the restoration process . It will make a great video as well . Please consider subscribing and I will have another Stanley restoration for your viewing pleasure soon .

[@lukesters7234]

Fascinating…so informed and knowledgeable. Wonderful presentation made this so watchable. Only just found your channel Sion but you are a natural at this. 👏👏

[@sionhughes5543]

Wow ! What a lovely thing to say , thank you. If you end up watching ant of my carpentry videos you will see this hand plane in action . The flat soul is really the key . Restoring old tools is such a pleasure.

[@beanieweenie9543]

Next time make sure your plane is assembled when you lap then sole. When you put the fog on and tighten everything down it changes the sole.

[@sionhughes5543]

I will . When I find a no 7 I will employ that technique .

[@pgmpxk]

I agree, the sole will bend ever so much

[@RESTORATIONOFSCRAPMETAL]

Great job buddy 👍

[@LBCAndrew]

The very old Stanley/Bailey planes from around the turn of the century, at least here in North America, came with Brazilian Rosewood handles. I own a #4 and #5 Bailey from around 1910-1915

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Andrew, Your completely correct and I have made a number of honest errors in this video that I have discussed in the comments section . I have recently bought a vintage No 6 with old crack rose wood handles. That will be filmed for a restoration. Please consider subscribing and thanks for taking the time to comment. I hope you enjoyed the video despite its mistakes on my behalf.

[@russcorbett3923]

Awesome job !!!! New to your channel and just subscribed as well !!! Looking forward to your work and videos !!!

[@sionhughes5543]

Thank you for the lovely comment and I really appreciate your subscription

[@richardfenton6975]

Very good video, I like style of the narrative and the excellent way you have shown the project😊

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Richard, High praise indeed. If you read through the extensive comments to that video you will see that I have had some inaccuracies pointed out to me ,but it doesn’t change the fact that that smoothing plane looks beautiful and is a joy to work with . I will be doing a vintage No 6 restoration when I get the time and if you like my style of presentation then check out the other 60 videos on my channel . Once again thank you for taking the time to comment and I really appreciate the high praise . Cheers Sion

[@MisterBurtonshaw]

Nice restoration. As has been said, at first glance the plane is from the 3rd quarter of the C19th, probably and you should true-up the sole with the frog in and the plane under normal tension. Also, it's worth properly flattening the machined face of the frog where the iron is clamped. I've read the most important places the sole needs to be true is in front of the mouth, the section behind it and down the sides.. barring a nice 'rounding towards the edge of the side. I like to put a nice smooth curved surface on that heel at the back too. Thanks for going to the effort of doing a video.

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Emlee , thanks for taking the time to comment. Your quite right with your observations . Glad you enjoyed the video. And if you haven’t already I’d really appreciate it if you would consider subscribing .

[@chriselliott726]

Have you any actual measurements to back up your assertion that flattening needs to take place with the frog in place and the blade under tension? I had my planes surface ground without the frog and they are spot on under tension. I believing to be a myth, or at least of infinitesimal significance.

[@Heseblesens]

To make the knob more firm when sanding using the drill try a bit of masking tape on the bolt. Works like a charm.

[@sionhughes5543]

Sounds like a good idea . Next time I will try that . I really enjoyed that renovation and have plans for a No 6 or 7 . I hope you enjoyed watching and would consider subscribing. There are several other restorations on my home page under RESTORATIONS in the playlists.

[@ureasmith3049]

I enjoyed your restoration. Love seeing old tools given new life and saved from the scrapbin. Personally I wouldn't take an exquisite 16K grit edge to a strop. I've found that my 12k grit get a better edge when not finished off with a strop. I just take off the burr on that same 12K grit waterstone.

[@sionhughes5543]

First of all thank you for a lovely comment, and for taking the time to comment. I absolutely adore that plane and its performance is exquisite both on hard and softwood. As for your suggestion I’m sure it works perfectly well however I only have the equipment in front of me that you saw. I’m pretty much following the Rob corpsman sharpening technique but clearly not to his standard. As long as it works that’s all that really matters. Please consider subscribing and I think you will be my 1002 subscriber. Check out the channel maybe there’s similar videos there that you might really enjoy as well . If you do let me know in the comments and thanks again Cheers Sion

[@MrBillUp]

Nice job. As soon as you started speaking and realised you were English, I already knew the comments section would be full of Americans telling you what you have done wrong, and how they do it is the correct and only way, because America. The only videos on KZbin that are not full of comments from Americans are Paul Sellers videos, because they know they don't have a leg to stand on. And even then you get a few that try.

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Bill, cheers for taking the time to comment and ,not to mention, the kind words . Its well appreciated. I do get a lot of the same things pointed out which, I reason, would be way less is they had they read all the comments and my responses. That being said I am delighted for all the great little tid bits that I pick up from viewers. My hero was Norm Abrams. His videos on TV in the UK back in the early 2000 were the highlight of my viewing. He inspired me so much . I too like Paul Sellers . His experience and age remind me of a carpenter who was employed to work on my fathers house when I was growing up . Through all the holidays the poor man had to put up with me asking him constant questions. He was extremely slow but meticulously actuate In everything. His day job was exclusively working at Windsor Castle as a master carpenter . All that watching really paid off in spades years later when I needed paid woodworking jobs . I was very lucky . Rob Cosman is a legend too . Cheers Sion

[@dereksmith2910]

Great video. Thanks.

[@sionhughes5543]

Really glad you enjoyed it and thanks for the lovely comment. Cheers Sion

[@vanniedude]

Great job in restoring the shine of that plane, one thing I would remark is that I would flatten the sole and side walls with the plane fully assembled due to the faces changing dimension under the stress of a tightened frog/breaker/blade. Other than that you produced a masterpiece.

[@sionhughes5543]

You are absolutely right and not the first person to mention that . I recently tuned up the sole with the blade in place but retracted and it didn’t display any high or low spots . I recently cleaned up the faces of some oak boards with that No 4 and it was a dream to use . Glad you enjoyed the video and please consider subscribing. I have a few other restorations on my channel if you’re interested.

[@rvburbank1]

That was debunked years ago by Plane Collector. If the frog distorts the body you're overtightening the screws. Here's a link the video kzbin.info/www/bejne/e3Kyhquko85mmZo&ab_channel=PlaneCollector

[@createdezign1840]

Don't get me wrong as great as they look all polished up they really aren't going to stay like that for long if you're going to use them. Best you can hope for it keep 'em clean, flat, sharp and free of rust. A well cared for tool with a little patina tells the story of the tool/craftsmen and the things that were made with it. :)

[@sionhughes5543]

Well yes and no . I don’t use mine on a day to day basis and I always wipe it down and re wax the sole before putting it away in a draw full of silica tell sachets . The ultra flat sole , I find really does give a fantastic finish and that old No 4 has been in my ownership for 40 years now so I feel a bit precious about it . I guess I must have watched to many Rob Cosman and Norm Abrams videos .

[@createdezign1840]

@@sionhughes5543 Every one to their each and their own. I have a 120 year old Stanley No. 6 and I've clean that up some/tuned it and it even has brass brazing repairs on the soul. To make that all shiny and new would be sacrilege. ;) I think it's mainly people that seem to take these planes and give them and mirror finish, what's the point?

[@allensooter8429]

I have restored many wood planes and I soak the wood in acetone to remove all the oil stains from them.

[@sionhughes5543]

That’s sounds like good advice . Cheers Sion . Please consider subscribing and check out my channel as I’m sure you’ll find lots of other videos to enjoy

[@gorillapanic1095]

Great video and super nice plane. Just a tip though. You only flattened the back of the blade to 1000 grit therefore your edge isn't actually 16000 grit sharp. It needs to be polished and shiny on both sides to achieve a true sharp edge. That's the reason why we flatten it.

[@sionhughes5543]

That’s wonderful advice and I’m going to be straight on that tomorrow. Really glad you enjoyed the video. I absolutely love that plane . It features in so many of the videos that I’ve made. Please feel free to check out my channel and look at some of the other videos ,you might like them. Cheers Sion

[@jwmfatboy]

Thanks for video.. im working on restoration of an American made Stanley No4 I purchased at a flee market. Dang talk about arm pains while flitting the base.

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Jack . A pretty smooth base is the ultimate work out . I hope my restoration gave you some ideas . Thanks for taking the time to comment. Cheers sion

[@ianwatters5613]

Enjoyed the video, , not meant as criticism but hope this observation helps, when doing the sole flattening it’s worth having the plane together blade/iron installed but fully retracted as working hard on the sole alone can cause some possible warping , also try using wet and dry paper, stick with spray adhesive and lube with fluid, saves your diamond stone 😉

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi , if you read through the comments section you will see that your observations have been made a number of times. I drew pencil marks in a crosshatching pattern on the soul of the plane and with a blade installed and retracted. I re-flattened it. I didn’t find any low or high spots. I’m sure this might have an effect on some planes but it made no difference to mine. I like the idea of using the diamond stone because I know it’s going to get there absolutely perfectly flat soul. I have a number 6 jointing plane which needs restoration and that’s gonna have to be done using wet and dry. Thanks for taking the time to comment and I’m really glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers Sion

[@joschmoyo4532]

A few corrections if you don't mind. Most Stanley no 4s had Beech handles unless you got lucky and scored one with a rosewood handle. It's a waste of rosewood really but it does look nice. The only slight problem with wood handles is that in dry conditions they shrink and you have to tighten down the brass slotted nut a bit. The rosewood handles do shrink less though. The front knob is not cross grain so it does not tend to get loose like the push handle. I prefer my 4.5 to the 4 but I have two of each so that I can keep going on big jobs. One set fine for finish planing, the other set for scrubbing quickly to flush. All my planes were bought used but I never bothered doing any more than cleaning off the rust with sandpaper taped to my jointer table. Quick and easy. Often it's better to let a grey black pattina build on the castings rather than keep them bright and prone to rust. Oak tannin mixed with wax is best. Easy on the eye too. The original paint is usually pretty tough, best not to attack it with solvents or rust remover.

[@sionhughes5543]

You are not the first person to point out the beech handles . My mistake . I never touched the paint on the casting other than adding a touch here and there where it had chipped off . That plane performs flawlessly now and is my go to . Oak , pine no problems. I have had quite a few comments telling me that I should of had the frog and basically the plane fully assembled before I started the flattening process on the plane sole because the tension would alter the flatness of the sole . Anyway these are all good talking points . Thanks for taking the time to comment please consider subscribing. Cheers

[@bobbystanley8580]

Wow. I discovered this channel early.

[@sionhughes5543]

What a lovely comment. Welcome aboard.

[@MintStiles]

Excellent work! The gold highlight was brilliant! I did cringe to see you take that thick of shaving with such a meticulously honed edge. I have no doubt your edge will cut much finer. I would only reserve those edge for the finest of final smoothing if I had put that much work into the blade, I will milk ever last cut.

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Carl , thanks for the high praise. I have a No 6 that i will be restoring soon . That smoothing planes is a real joy to use and yes it does produce ultra thin shavings, especially on oak

[@MintStiles]

@@sionhughes5543 remember when no one wanted 6's? Now they are rare and collectable lol.

[@bricoxtrem]

Buen trabajo me gusta 👍 qeda genial

[@sionhughes5543]

Thank you . When My girlfriend get back from a trip I will ask her to translate your comment but I am sure its as kind as it looks .

[@GingerBoyC]

Nice video and beautiful end result. I noticed the front knob was spinning on the spindle at the start? How did you fit it so that it didnt spin anymore? Im considering filing down a couple of threads off the spindle. Cheers.

[@sionhughes5543]

Thank you so much for the lovely comment. I think at the very beginning of the video the knob was simply loose. I just tightened it up. It remains a cherish possession and perform masterly. Please consider subscribing if you already haven’t please investigate my channel as there are about 70 other videos that you might find useful. Sion.

[@thecasualcitizen492]

The plane is not type 15. It is type 19. The base has the raised rib at the heel and the base has the "Y" ridge under the frog area. The Lever Cap has the kidney shaped hole. The type 15 had a key hole shaped hole on the lever cap and no rib at the heel of the base. The type 19 was manufactured from 1948 to 1961.

[@sionhughes5543]

Thanks for all that information. If you look through the comments you will notice that I have realised my mistake. Despite my lack of knowledge I hope you enjoyed the restoration

[@jims2286]

Use valve laping compound it is cheap

[@sionhughes5543]

What a great idea . Cheers Sion

[@larsfrandsen2501]

Lovely video. I am not a tool restorer or collector. I restore old houses and furniture using hand tools only. So my use of hand tools and their maintenance is probably different to those who restore, sell and collect hand tools. Every video I have ever watched (and my own experience confirm this) advocate flattening the sole with the frog and the retracted blade installed. Paul Sellers also asserts (in a video on restoring a wooden jack plane) that flattening is really only important around the mouth of the plane. I wonder how you feel about all of that. Please understand I am not trying to give advice here. I just want to learn more. Thank you.

[@sionhughes5543]

Thank you for the lovely comment. If you read through the comment section, you will see that your observation has been mentioned quite a few times and I have admitted my fault. However, I drew crosshatching on the soul of the plane and re-flattened it with the blade retracted and didn’t see any noticeable difference in flatness. I fully accept that I made that hand plane look unnecessarily pretty, but I have a particular appetite for pretty looking headlines.

[@larsfrandsen2501]

@@sionhughes5543 And that is, in fact, a comment made over and over again by Paul Sellers: it is personal preference to make tools look pretty. I don’t mind when they do. But I am personally too busy working to make my tools shine. They get a rub of oil (BLO and 3-in-1) so they don’t rust. Most of my tools belonged to my grandfather and my dad after him. I feel honoured to use these tools. And what ever sweat and scrapes are on the tools are from their toil. Thanks again for a great and caring video. I love when people take their time to honour these old traditions instead of dismissing them.

[@sionhughes5543]

Bless you for the lovely comment, Cheers Sion

[@larsfrandsen2501]

@@sionhughes5543 And thank you again. I understand very well that the sole was not warped by your flattening and lapping procedure. It’s good to know that it can be done sensitively both ways. If I listen carefully to Paul, he says exactly that: it is possible (POSSIBLE) to bend the sole if flattening without the frog and blade. He is not saying that it is sure to happen and everyone who doesn’t do it the other way is a so-and-so. When we hear arguments these days that it has to be done one way, and one way only, it is, to me, proof positive that we no longer have the active hand tool culture among wood workers that we once had. I remember very well my father’s work and his training of me as a kid: any operation could be done in a number of different ways. There are obviously wrong ways to do anything, but you get the point, I am sure.

[@lukes5533]

Pardon If im mistaken but that plane does have a raised rim at the back just like the front.

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Luke , I honestly don’t know I simply wanted a ultra flat surface which I ended up getting and it works like a dream. I have received a lot of great info in the comments section from people who clearly know a lot more about hand planes than I ever will . That being said I hope you enjoyed the video and consider subscribing. There are well over 60 videos on my channels. Cheers Sion

[@lukes5533]

@@sionhughes5543 Sorry Sion I ment on the top side (painted side )front and back because I thought that's what made you determin it's age . I also have a No 4 with exactly the same cast , only difference on mine is the lateral lever has stanley imprinted horizontally. Beautiful job on your plane. 👍

[@johnjones6077]

You got the sole completely flat however once you put it back together and the lever cap is under pressure it will no longer be perfectly flat anymore. When flattening the sole of a hand plane it needs to be done when it’s fully assembled with the blade retracted

[@sionhughes5543]

Thanks for taking the time to comment John . I completely agree with you and if you read through the comments in this video you will see this mistake has been brought to my attention before . I will say that when I later flattened the sole again with frog screwed in I drew cross hatches marks again on the sole and went back to the diamond stone . The cross hatching marks disappeared almost instantly and the sole did appear to have gained any high or low spots . Nevertheless I will in future restoration I will be flattening with the frog screwed down . I have a Stanley no 6 restoration which will released soon . Please consider subscribing if you haven’t already . Cheers Sion

[@chriselliott726]

Please point me to anyone who has actually measured the deflection you speak of. I believe it to be a myth, or at most an insignificant measurement.

[@johnjones6077]

The reason I believe this to be true is because I was flattening the sole on my very first hand plane. It was a cheap Footprint brand from Home Depot. I used the big DMT lapping plate and I got the whole surface nice and flat. Shortly after it must of got moisture on it and rust developed so I took it apart to clean it and I started to remove the rust on the sole with the same DMT plate and I forgot to put it back together first and when I looked at it the scratch pattern was different and it was only making contact about 50%. I put it back together and tried again and this time it made contact on almost the whole sole. There were very small areas that weren’t and I’m the only conclusion I could come up with was that I must of not had the same exact tension on the blade. I know a lot of people feel it’s a myth and maybe it is but that is what I experienced

[@stephenlines9431]

...You have not got the frog etc fitted, so even if you get the sole flat as is, the moment you fit the frog and tension the blade all your work will have been in vain. But that's just what I've read. Looks adorable. Thanks for sharing! It's how we all learn isn't it?

[@sionhughes5543]

Thanks for the lovely comment. Your astute observations have been mentioned many times already in the comments and I have made amends. As you say it looks adorable and works like an absolute dream. Visit my channel and see if there are any other videos that interest you and please consider subscribing and help me grow this little channel.

[@chriselliott726]

What would the measured deflection be please?

[@timothymallon]

Just a thought, but I wouldnt have sanded the tote or knob. They were varnished and if you just used more varnish, it would have melded together well.

[@sionhughes5543]

I was really trying to make them feel supper smooth to the hand . Because of the wax finish on them now they appear to have a higher shine than when they were done .

[@matthiasvanhoorn362]

Hello Mr. Hughes, really astonishing work. I purchased a No. 5 from Stanleys good old times. What brand of japanning do you use for the red paint and the golden pen? And could you tell me which 16.000 stone you use? You should have very much more subscribers because of the quality of the video, so calm and precise presentation. Best Regards, Matthias

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Matthias ,First of all thank you for the lovely compliment . I bought a beautiful old Stanley Bailey No 6 , a while back that is going to make a nice restoration video . Regarding your questions, I didn’t japann mine and have no experience of japanning but I will look in to it for the upcoming restoration video . I have other planes I have just spray with Hamerite . I ordered the gold paint pen on eBay . I have them in front of me and the pen has ( Overseas ) as a trade mark and its called ( Paint marker ) The beautiful red is automotive touch up paint all in chineese with ( Color Easy ) written on the pen . Its an American spelling but beyond that I am sorry there are no codes or part numbers . The water stone is a Shapton 1600 grit . As long as its kept flat with the diamond plates it produces chrome finished . Hmmmmmmmm Shapton . If you read the comments section of this video you will see that there is lots of sound advice, kindly pointing some inaccuracies in my restoration. Apart from cringing when I realised my errors I can honestly say I am rather flattered that people are kind enough to spare the time to comment. I really appreciate your final comment , it was very kind . Thank you for your subscription and check out the 56 other videos on my channel . Let me know in the comments section what you think . Cheers Sion

[@matthiasvanhoorn362]

Thank you very much. I think too that it is a 1930s model. It' very similar to the 1933 Stanley type 16 from the US. There are some type studies about the US models. But I couldn't find a study about the England models. Beginning in 1885 with inventing the lateral adjuster, Stanley made several improvements. The last I know was the kidney shaped hole of the lever cap which provides the cap from floating while adjusting the iron. I have heard in the comments not to flatten the sole without installed blade and without tensioning the lever cap. I tested it in the past with a new No. 4. There was a hollow in the sole of about 0.02 mm after tensioning, but i dont feel any difference while planing wood. I only sharp my blades till 8000 Jis on a Shapton. Do you feel any significantly difference by using the 16.000?

[@sionhughes5543]

The amount of knowledge expressed in the comments section of this video is quite impressive. Regarding sharpening I think there is a definite improvement when you climb up to the really high grits . I personally find oak easy to get a nice smooth finish than the cheep pine ( all anybody can afford these days ) its much harder to get the flawless finish . If you watch ( How to make a coffee table ) I did tons of jointing in that , both hand and electric plane .

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi , if you enjoyed this restoration then please consider SUBSCRIBING and help me grow this channel . If you have any particular requests for restorations then put your request in the comments section .

[@jkg2754]

You should have a low spot on the front of your plane. That’s typically a part of “tuning up” your plane !

[@sionhughes5543]

I didn’t know that .

[@johnmorrison1180]

You didn't mention the missing backing plate or chip breaker,regarded the smoothing planes with the chrome cap plate

[@sionhughes5543]

I know sorry , but despite that oversight I hope you enjoyed it . Cheers Sion

[@johnmorrison1180]

I would like to know where you got the missing piece from?

[@sionhughes5543]

I have a No 5 that i took the parts from before replacing them from parts sourced on eBay .

[@johnmorrison1180]

@@sionhughes5543 OK thanks for that, often these old planes have parts missing. Blades are available but the other pieces are hard to source.

[@sionhughes5543]

Tell me about it . The replacement parts were bought of ebay at great expense

[@davidjennings9253]

I think you will find that this is a much later plane, probably 70s or even 80s. The handles are beech which they used after the plastic ones which were rubbish. A 30s plane would have had Rosewood handles. The hollow rivet holding the lateral adjustment is a modern change along with the screw types.That is a much later plane where the quality is far lower but with work they can still be made to work well as you have found out.

[@sionhughes5543]

I am clearly no expert on tool history and referenced the Stanley Bailey flow chart available on the internet. I just looked at it now and followed it to the same type and date conclusion as I stated in the video . Now I am fully prepared to except the possibility that I have misinterpreted it incorrectly , but for the life of me , I can’t work out where I have gone wrong. I was definitely wrong about the oak and yes they are beach . In any case the lovely old lady who gave it to me explained to me that it was her late husband’s. He passed away a very long time ago . I think the next time I restore a hand plane I will include the Stanley Bailey flow chart in my video . I cringe at the thought of saying anything that’s inaccurate and hope you believe me when I say that any mistakes I make are honest ones . All that said I really love that No 4 and have used it in lots of my videos . It performs flawlessly. I really hope you enjoyed the video and would consider subscribing, if you haven’t already. I really appreciate you taking the time to comment and I love reading all the comments.

[@davidjennings9253]

@@sionhughes5543 Hi Sion, Stanley brought back that casting style in late 70s and the beech handles after the disasterous plastic ones around the same time. Those later planes are difficult to date as they were not all made in the same factory . The screws which hold the frog and the frog adjustment are clearly late models and the hollow rivet also. You could see that the plane had not had much use from the paintwork and grinding pattern on the body and sadly the quality of the castings were poor and if you checked a brand new one in the 80s they were rarely flat and if you rubbed them on a flat surface you could often see a bright mark (witness) where the ribs are showing that the castings had moved. After some years it is easier to flatten those poorer planes as the castings had often settled and as I said before, with the work you did they can be a reasonable plane. I have restored many planes but must confess that unlike many I prefer Record planes as I find their castings to be better and the standard of machining also of a higher quality.

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi David, I would love to be able to afford a Lee Nielsen or even a Woodriver . I have never considered the Record brand as I always assumed it was Stanley knock off but , after. Reading your post I might consider one.

[@garyblake3130]

Having refurbed several of these planes over the years I agree this is a relatively modern plane from the early 70's, even down to having the Q on the frog which indicates it was cast by qualcast as were the Record ones. The older ones have square edges on the body rather than slightly rounded and also the Stanley wording on the lateral adjuster would not go straight down but at right angles. The blade and cap iron would also be straight edges rather than slightly rounded. Nice refurb though, however I think the beech handles would have been made to look better if stained and lacquered. With the brass nuts, I used to drag them down the leather strop to remove any marks on them and they shine brilliantly. Stanley or Record planes can be made to work just as good as any so called premium planes which I think are just for weekenders not people who spend a lifetime in the trade and use them to earn a living. Just see Paul Sellers and he will say the same.

[@jasonvandergriff7809]

Nice job! I won't mention the flattening the sole with the plane disassembled bit, since everyone else already did. Bit I think your finished product looks great! I have a Stanley #5 (not sure what ywar) that I'm going to start restoring in about a week or so. It's odd, it has a wooden know, but an aluminum tote. Anyone know what year that would be from? Anyhow, did I see an Airbus video on your channel??? I fly the A319, 320 & 321!

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Jason, It’s a good question, I used to be a Captain on Boeings and air bus and had this flawed idea that video would get millions of views . Clearly it didn’t work but it was worth a try . Good luck restoring your No 5 . It’s oddly an satisfying process as you will find out. Please consider subscribing and help me grow this little channel. As for your aluminium tote that sounds very unusual, in fact I have never even herd or seen one of those before .

[@jasonvandergriff7809]

@@sionhughes5543 Hey Thanks! Yeah man, I've seen St Elmo's fore quite a bit, filmed it once on an old Blackberry phone, and lost the video. I went back and found yours, it was pretty cool! I'm Looking forward to restoring my #5. It's in decent shape, just a little bit of dirt and corrosion. I did some research last night, turns out, Stanley produced aluminum replacement handles (totes) during the 30's through 50's, I think, and sent them to school woodshops around the US, since the students were rough on the planes and often broke the totes. I'm not sure what year mine was manufactured, but I'm guessing the previous owner got it from an old High School woodworking class. I'll subscribe. Looking forward to seeing more of your content!

[@sionhughes5543]

I really appreciate the subscribing Jason . I have spent 1000,s of hours building , filming and editing and still my channel is yet to take off but at least its ready for departure. The aluminium totes are playing on my mind and I keep thinking they are chrome shinny and leave your hand all black . I am sure that’s not the case but that my imagination for you . I am working at the moment on a coffee table and that video should be out in the next 10 days . I don’t have a jointer machine and so hand planes are an absolute necessity . It’s a real skill to learn how to flatten large planks but extremely rewarding. I have learned loads from Rob Cosman . To this day I still hold Norm Abrams as the father of modern DIY carpentry and have photos of him on every wall in my work shop . Safe flying and best wishes Sion .

[@jasonvandergriff7809]

@@sionhughes5543 Thank you! I'm looking forward to seeing your table build! Father Norm Abram was my inspiration to woodworking also. I always watched with intrigue when I was young. I piddled with it for a while, but I really got in to it when I rediscovered the New Yankee Workshop online a few years ago. I went out and bought some tools, as I needed them and got started. I fly for American Airlines, and got furloughed for a few months at the beginning of covid, which was a blessing because I spent that time learning and refining my woodworking skills. I built a buffet table / sideboard, with 2 utensil drawers at the top, glass windowed display cabinet in the center a linen drawer at the bottom, and a 1 1/2" thick table top. I've also built a scaled down version of Norm's pantry table that sits under a window and holds plants in the dining room, a cedar blanket chest, a bookcase, and a few other smaller projects. I used to make sketch comedy videos for KZbin with some friends, and had a show on TV for 3 seasons, but I've gotten away from that. I wish I would have filmed my builds, but I don't have the equipment any more. Maybe after I build my new shop this year, perhaps I will. I bought a cheap benchtop jointer and a Dewalt planer /thicknesser, but I find for small to medium size pieces, it's faster and easier to just use hand planes instead of setting up the jointer and planer. It's more rewarding too! Of you can send me your email address or something, I'll show you my progress of my #5 restoration. That aluminum tote handle, is matte, not shiny at all. I found out that Stanley started shipping out 5 1/4's to schools for student use with the aluminum tote, because the aluminum totes were virtually indestructible. Then they started sending them out as replacement totes for #5's, and a few other models in thier sweetheart line. I haven't decided yet if I want to replace it with new wooden one, or keep it authentic with the aluminum one.

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Jason, can’t think why I have not respond sooner. My email is [e-mail] I would love to see those pictures. Hope you liked the coffee table build??

[@jkg2754]

Most Stanley totes and knobs were made from rosewood. I’ve never seen any made of oak or beechwood !

[@sionhughes5543]

Certainly all the really old ones were rosewood but mine are newer and possible replacements . I had originally thought they were white oak but actually think they are beech after reading some of the comments on this video . I hope you enjoyed the video. I use this plane all the time and it give an excellent smooth flat finish.

[@RabanABurr]

The plane has to be assembled when flattening the sole.

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi, your not the first person to mention that . The next plane restoration I do I certainly will do that . I have to say that plane works extremely well as is . Apart from that oversight did you enjoy the restoration video ?

[@abbbee8918]

Good effort. Not everything done, or properly, or authentically, as many have pointed out. For me a bit of stain and shellac on the handles would have been a huge improvement. The gold pen is a step too far and looks ridiculous, sorry. The brass work is beautiful though.

[@sionhughes5543]

Thanks for taking the time to comment and also reading the comments section . I loved the gold high lights but except its personal taste and not standard. That smoothing plane has been a joy to work with ever since its restoration. Please consider subscribing. Cheers Sion

[@user-dw2xh7sh2i]

This is Mistakse! Чепуха!

[@sionhughes5543]

Have read through the comments and you will read how mis dated it and other bits and pieces

[@user-dw2xh7sh2i]

@@sionhughes5543 Commentators are suckers and incompetent losers. And you are a talented brainwasher! Bad guy...

[@callumharper1828]

Product called micra😂. *** Mirka

[@sionhughes5543]

Whoops . Hope you enjoyed the restoration.

[@robinalexander5772]

Hi sorry to tell you this its not type 15. You have a kidney hole lever cap, an oogee frog. Type 16 and above have oogee frog, type 15 low frog. on the under Neath of lever cap is no paten date so later model than type 16 . No Hard rubber adjustment knob so its not type 17, so later model. the y shape frog seating is type 18 -19. you have hard wood tote and knob, late models. type 15 most likely rose wood. sorry for this I hate giving bad news.

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Robin, You are , of course completely right and I have had, as you can see, many many comments pointing out all the factual errors . I followed the (on line Stanley identifying chart) , but clearly went wrong . Sorry . I also now understand that I should have left the blade and frog in when I was flattening the sole . For what its worth I drew cross hatching lines on my sole recently and with blade fully retracted re dressed the sole on a 1000 grit diamond plate . It was totally flat . All the lines gone . The handles are Beach , not oaks as I claimed . Still for all that Its ended up being my go to plane. I have jus got myself a vintage Stanley no 6 with old rose wood handles and only BAILEY written in the front . The lever cap has no branding and isn’t chromed . I really need it as I can’t afford a planer , thicknesser . I will make a video about that restoration and I promise it will be better in every way . Please consider subscribing and I am confident you will like my upcoming BAILEY No 6 restoration .

[@roybailey9554]

They were beech handles, and thats a type 17 or 18 after the war , prewar the handles were Rosewood after the war They were stained beech wood .

[@sionhughes5543]

Gosh I said what I read from my internet research . Much appreciated . I hope you don’t mind me saying you have a wonderful name for lovers of old hand planes . I hope you enjoyed the video ?

[@roybailey9554]

@@sionhughes5543 best wishes and thank you , I did enjoy your video many thanks.

[@garyblake3130]

@@sionhughes5543 Just a shame his first name is not Leonard.

[@BeachBoi1000]

I want a Stanley Bailey. Regret buying a cheaper Record Plane… the frog cannot be moved… give me one Bailey no. 4

[@sionhughes5543]

My Stanley give a better performance than my brand new Rider . Could you not sell what you have on ebay and get yourself a Stanley ?

[@BeachBoi1000]

@@sionhughes5543 There is really negligible amount of Used Stanley planes in my country and for the cost of the shipping. I rather buy a new plane, maybe I just use my record plane as a scrub plane.

[@sionhughes5543]

Which country are you from ?

[@BeachBoi1000]

@@sionhughes5543 from Singapore

[@sionhughes5543]

Well you certainly have a wonderful selection of hardwoods to work on . I now understand your difficulty’s in tracking down an old Stanley Bailey . Good luck . Welcome to my channel

[@billmackenzie-cardy7072]

Why do you have to have that music this is not for us with hearing problems 🙉😡😢

[@sionhughes5543]

Sorry

[@robertharris2920]

Original Comment Has Been Deleted By "R".

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Robert I’m sorry the sound track was quiet for you but I can honestly say that’s the first comment I have herd about it . Pick any other video of mine and I would be very surprised if have the same complaint. Cheers Sion

[@sionhughes5543]

I just checked that video and the audio is normal . I don’t know why you couldn’t hear it , sorry