How to save your GDI engine! with this simple modification

GDI Engines have their pro's and cons. But with this simple modification you can eliminate one of the cons! watch entire video to find out!
#cars #automobile #mechanic #tips #electronic #engineering
-not legal in state of California
Here's a link to an example of a catch can on amazon. I am not sponsored by these people. just showing cheap options. Here's my opinion. keep the fittings and catch can. throw out the rest. buy good quality evap hosing/clamps from a parts supplier and install it your self!
www.amazon.ca/...

[@Nirky]

Direct injection was invented over 100 years ago, and up until the last 10-15 years ago auto manufacturers didn't think the benefits outweighed the drawbacks. Now, their greed is showing, they can honestly report better fuel economy for higher sales, and get you again in higher maintenance to repair the results of those DI drawbacks! I'll sacrifice a few MPG's to have port injection, thank you.

[@jamesj.litteriojr.433]

Very Well Said!!!!!!!!!!

[@simonlangmead7]

On newer Toyota engines they use both port and direct injection. Depending on the computer programming, it goes back and forth so the port injectors help keep the valves clean, and the direct injectors for better efficiency.

[@almostbutnotentirelyunreas166]

wow, which Toyota engines have this alternating fuel delivery tech?

[@jonathanwebb8307]

@@almostbutnotentirelyunreas166 Corolla 2.0 Hybrid for one

[@ARMAGEDDON2916]

@@almostbutnotentirelyunreas166 any engine that has what toyota and lexus call their D4S system, i own a 2010 lexus GS 350 and it has a 2GR-FSE engine with that system

[@ronnymb67]

Even Hyundai/Kia has it now in their 2020+ Smart Stream engines that replaced the notorious 2011-2019 Theta II GDI engines.

[@gjmob]

Also direct injection reduces torque in favour of horsepower, so Toyota engines use port injection at lower revs.

[@jeffstieren4474]

If you are waiting 15K miles to change your oil, then you should not own a vehicle with GDI

[@Rick-S-6063]

If you are waiting 15K miles to change your oil, then you should not own a vehicle period.

[@hukim0531]

Catch can is only partial answer to GDI engines. Manufacturers recommends 7.5k to 10k oil change these days. If you wait for 7.5k and oops another 1-2k slip by and your piston rings will get gummed up after few slip ups. Most people are driving under severe condition. Just do your oil change every 5k and you don't need to worry about stuck piston rings.

[@Rick-S-6063]

@@hukim0531 I change the oil and filter on both of my cars at 5K intervals. The 2009 Honda Fit isn't a GDI so no worries there. The 2020 Hyundai Accent is a dual port design so that's where the extra caution will help.

[@2010bigfathen]

@@jeffstieren4474 yeah and maybe a one speed bicycle would be a better choice for them

[@MrT-nh6di]

​@@Rick-S-6063Exactly

[@colinvanful]

i was a mechanic years ago . i had this real old school guy show me his home made catch can on his 64 triumph 1300 car . i was so impressed he had put a old gas valve on the bottom of a tin can that teed into his dip stick via a bit of rubber pipe and to drain it all he had to do was open the valve every so often . he said he went from topping the oil up every month to never having to top it up .

[@Lancemechanics]

Amazing :)

[@nickm764]

Manufactures do not add any mitigation items for this because they know it won't become an issue until it's out of warranty and then they can charge you to fix what they screwed up in the first place. The reason is simple.... money

[@paulsmith5611]

But they screwed up on that badly. It's not uncommon for drivability problems due to dirty injectors to show up at 20k-30k miles and certainly by 60k when the warranty is over. Now they are losing their ass in warranty claims.

[@basvanderhoek9293]

Just avoid GDI engines. I retired from Lexus in 2012, and even than ,we had already port and direct injection combined. Its very fashionable to dislike Toyota ( Lexus) but lets face it, there is a reason why they are number 1 in longevity and durability. Very nicely done clip, keep at it Lance, greetings from YVR.

[@MrT-nh6di]

Change your oil every 5k miles use synthetic oil, keep you oil level top up. Use Red Line Fuel injector treatment every oil change. Oil Additives every oil change like Liqui Moly or maybe 30k miles with the Liqui Moly. People saying change your oil every 10k miles get a bicycle.

[@stealthg35infiniti94]

I agree with your opinion. I have installed 3 small Catch Cans in 3 different vehicles. They will work to great extent if installed correctly. First, don't spend crazy money on those Marketed name brands that dont perform any better than some cheaper units. Second,Make sure it has a golden micro filter inside to restrict any oil vapors. Third, chose one that has a bottom ball valve so you can easily dain the can. Forth, run a hose from the bottom of the can to the underside of the vehicle for easy no mess draining. Depending on the vehicle, 1 or more ounces may accumulate in the can between oil changes. Still I highly recommend using CRC Intake and Turbo Cleaner via PCV Valve inlet or Throttle Body to minimize any residual contamination on intake valves. Do this every 10K or so miles and you shouldn't have any heavy deposits that would require expensive Walnut Blasting or engine tear down.

Brand recommendations would help!

[@alandaters8547]

You really drain crappy oil onto the ground? Maybe save it and add to recycled waste oil from oil changes.

[@Zeek800]

@@alandaters8547I believe he means running a hose from the valve on the bottom of the can to a place that you could drain it into the same oil change pan that you drain your engine oil into.

[@lactusgalacto1174]

What can of catch can do you used.Orville help a lot of people with GDI engine crap.

[@stealthg35infiniti94]

@@alandaters8547 You drain it in the oil tray when changing your motor oil and filter. Always dispose of your used motor oil at the Parts Store or Authorized Recycling Centers.

[@BTC909]

Skip to 2:36. An oil catch can does help. The solution is port and direct injection.

[@Robis_Grigoris]

No it doesn't. Find a single video that proves it.

[@Robis_Grigoris]

@@ToddMcDonald-zh4ym no I believe science that says that catch cans dont reduce carbon buildup

[@Blue-moon12]

​@Robis_Grigoris I have a catch can on both my vehicles. 2018 Genesis G80 Sport and a 2023 Frontier Pro 4x. No issues and they seem to be doing their job and I live in Canada.

[@paulcissa9494]

Correct. All those formulated gasolines with the great carbon cleaners are useless when delivered by GDI. The ONLY way to keep valves clean of carbon build-up is to wash them with fuel. Period. Hybridized systems with a separate injector for the intake runner help resolve the problem. Catch-cans help a bit but GDI is design flaw when combined with PCV recirculation.

[@colinscutt5104]

water/meth injection also solves it

[@scanadaze]

On my 2020 F150 3.5l Ecoboost. At new. I bought the pickup new. I put two oil catch cans on it. The only problem I have had is the hoses. I went with the most high heat experience hoses. I have none stop problems with them. Just the hoses. Other than that. Zero problems. They do what they are supposed to do. Catch oil. Here, I have extreme cold winters. Zero problems. I do not regret it one bit. The pickup is pushing 30,000 miles. Thanks for sharing.

[@Lancemechanics]

Thanks for sharing your experience!

[@scanadaze]

@@Lancemechanics You're welcome.

[@mr.gutwrench]

Sounds like they need a full time Seafoam I.V. drip.

[@TonyBasuro]

"Throwing Wrenches into your Trouble Shooting Tree." Quote of the year candidate. The wrenches were never seen again.

[@phelmersaid701]

Yet another valid reason to keep your older, simpler vehicle running. New ideas and technology are just bungling up our vehicles making them more prone to expensive repairs.

[@Lancemechanics]

I'm all for repairing then buying new.

[@jonathanrees3765]

Some modern cars do have factory catch cans. Only reason why it is not installed on all new cars is it is a manufacturing cost and engine issues are generally outside warranty - so a customer problem.

[@Blue-moon12]

Which cars have them?

[@kenmorrisproducer]

@@Blue-moon12Some of the Porsches have an air-oil separator, with the oil draining back into the oil pan and the air from the pcv returning to the intake as normal. I think Land Rover and many diesels do this too.

[@ASJC27]

⁠@@kenmorrisproducer The current and previous gen Honda civic also have an air oil separator, at least on the type r but presumably on all civics. It seems pretty effective - I installed an additional catch can on mine and there’s not much left for it to catch.

[@batmanlives6456]

@@Blue-moon12Porsche

[@ephraimgarrett4727]

Summary: Stay away from direct injection and turbocharging if you want a long-lasting engine. Both just over-complicate an engine, and are expensive to fix.

[@enigmasvids9615]

If you're a professional mechanic/technician you should also have mentioned another contributing factor being worn or faulty inlet valve guides and seals. High engine vacuum will pull oil down the guide over the valve head and into the cylinder. This may not be an issue on a brand new engine but wear takes it's toll. The use of very thin viscosity synthetic oils on modern engines only exacerbate the issue. Once oil gets into the combustion chamber you can forget about all of the clean air BS issuing from these engines.

[@Lancemechanics]

Good point. Being a dealer tech I didn't get to deal with valve guide issues that far Down the road. Vehicles stopped coming after warrenty was gone or they got traded in and shipped across country. I do know those little carbon deposits are like sand paper for valve guides at end of the day. Only a matter of time

[@13aceofspades13]

New technology seems to be really tough on the older generation. My grandfather owned cars with pushrod V6 engines for years, he was used to being able to put any old slop in the oil pan that was cheapest. Finally one day he totaled his old Buick and needed a new car, and bought a Chevrolet Impala with the 3.6L V6 engine. I tried to warn him it wasn’t a good idea, what made it worse was he bought it cheap from an auction. After he bought it I warned him about the 3.6L V6. I told him you have to use synthetic engine oil with detergents in it, and you have to change it regularly because it has variable valve timing and direct fuel injection! He did not heed my warning. He proceeded to put conventional 5W-30 Motor oil in it because that’s what he was running on his old Buick, and within little time at all the engine was having all sorts of issues. He later then after being told by his under the table mechanic that he needs to run synthetic oil, tried telling me that I should do the same with my cars. I politely told him… i tried warning you about that, my car (Which had a 3800 V6) doesn’t require synthetic oil, but I have been using Royal Purple which is one of the best synthetic oils you can get, since i bought my car.

[@larryhutchens7593]

This from an older generation type person who is up to date on the new technology. Something that hasn't changed is the dealership or auto repair shop scam. This fella seems to be a fairly honest guy but in the auto repair business he would be a rarity. Oil changes? Who do you trust to do one for you? The quickie lube joint who might charge you for synthetic oil but actually install some cheap bulk oil instead. The dealership? Might do the same only charge more. Now we have these direct injection, twin turbo gasoline engines that require special care and we have no idea if the dealership or the mechanic is being honest or just feeding us a line of crap. And, yes, Ford has a twin turbo engine. They have a low pressure turbo & a high pressure turbo. In the old radial aircraft engines that had to operate at high altitudes we called it low blow & hi blow because they had a 2 speed supercharger. Same old problem only compounded by hi tech. And not all new engines require synthetic oil. Strange blends like 5W20 or 5W30 or the really strange one 0W30. What is 0 weight oil? WD-40? I know they need it due to the close tolerances that some new engines have. This device that this guy is selling (or promoting) seems like a good idea but will it work in the long run? Only way to tell is to try one. Simple device, simply removing oil vapors from the PCV system before it passes into the intake.

[@fastone371]

@@larryhutchens7593 There are plenty of honest shops out there. We do what is right for the customer because we intend to have a long relationship with them.

[@dadigitechman]

​@@larryhutchens7593i get my oil changed from the dealer for warrantee reasons. Last oil change i checked the oil level a couple of weeks after the change and noticed the oil was pretty dark already. Thought it was strange. Its like it wasnt changed. Took it back to the dealer and they gave me the runaround and swore up and down it was done. Now i gotta check everything they do uppon pick up.

[@Lancemechanics]

Dump and fill. Some techs throw the drain plug back in while it's still dripping a fair amount. But doesn't take much to make new oil look like old oil.

[@victortaveira8271]

@@larryhutchens7593 As owner of delearships (some high-end, other more mundane) and full mechanic shop, I always command to show the customer all changed parts, if possible, and show all boxes of new parts in its car and sometime offer some advices to avoid some problems that we've seen and parts are showing.

[@rodx5571]

BG came out with a valve treatment 3 years ago. Every 15k and you are good. I am a master tech with 20+ years in the trade. BG makes good stuff. I am not affiliated with BG products as anything but a customer. I have seen carbon buildup cause misfires on cold statrup at 30k miles. This happens on cars that tend to make short frequent trips. Catch cans are more for the gearhead type person.

[@glennpham2763]

This video reminded me that I hand checked my catch can in a while. I checked it and it was about 3/4 full...

[@fastinradfordable]

I added a catch can to mine. Then I fixed the engine and it stopped filling up. If it’s filling up You got blow by. Period.

[@bobavon6048]

Those valves he is showing actually look ok, but do have a small amount of deposits on them and would work fine. If you have direct injection use only synthetic oil as it is resistant to coking. Coking is oil deposites like on valves and or turbo bearings as these surfaces get very hot and after a hot shutdown using sysnthetic oil will keep your deposits to a minimum.

[@Phil-D83]

Need some cleaner sprayed into the intake every so often

[@Randal-Flagg]

I would add onto your recommendation of a catch can, with having the line that leaves the can go into a Venturi-bung that has been welded into your exhaust pipe. This way, all those gases bypass your intake manifold, altogether!

[@squangan]

120 years later you’d think they’d know how to build an engine by now. To the people saying dual injection systems are the answer, that just adds another level of complexity and over engineering to the matter.

[@Lancemechanics]

Yep and with the recent Toyota recall a tunda engine costs 30k roughly. Things are out of control

The engineers know but the bean counters and government agencies don't.

[@JukeAndy]

Catch cans are a placebo. Vapers still get past it and the can freezes up in the winter causing more issues.

[@GusMahn]

I tend to agree. I've never seen proof or any studies of catch can effectiveness. Catching some water with oil in it doesn't prove much to me. Plenty of 150,000 mile DI cars where the valves might look slightly ugly but there are no issues.

[@Robis_Grigoris]

A frozen pcv can be brutal. Had one case where a frozen pcv caused a rear main seal to jump out of the engine block wich caused a massive oil leak.

[@COBRO98]

@@Robis_Grigoris Stuck PCV's are why crank seals start leaking in the first place. Catch cans and/or breathers are superior because there's nothing to fail. The EPA destroys everything.

[@boosthit811]

Can always vent to atmosphere to guarantee no oil mist consumption by the engine

[@briantii]

Spot on. Way more hassle and risk than they are worth.

[@danielrose-tt7os]

This can happen to engines in the 25K to 60K range, not just high mileage engines. The answer is using oils better formulated to resist carbon buildup. Some technical labs from the motor oil companies feel the problem is related to intake valve seals not sealing properly. FORD has included in its ECO Boost engine line a dual injection system. This is where port injection and direct injection is being used.

[@lapin46]

Professional "catch cans", they are called oil air separators, drain back into the oil pan with a pipe. A nice example is the Mann Provent filter series. There is no need to maintain. BTW, catch cans mostly collect water. Where are these separators installed by the OEMs? In trucks/HGVs!

[@Lancemechanics]

4th fella to mention that

[@leighbunting2284]

I added one to my 29 year old port injected v6 a little over 3 years ago using parts from Aliexpress. I wasn't expecting much but I reckon it catches >90% of the crankcase fumes as I don't have to wipe out crud from the plenum chamber anymore! My car doesn't have EGR, which adds a lot of crap as well. So if owners can disconnect EGR, it will improve things as well.

[@Capitanvolume]

Vw had an oem catch can back in day. It had a drain to the block. Heavy trucks use a crankcase ventilation that drains the oil back.

[@Lancemechanics]

that's smart. makes you wonder why the big oem manufacturers arn't doing that anymore or why vw didn't continue. Volkswagen was first to start the walnut blasting if I remember

[@briantii]

They designed it into the block and valve cover. Much better setup because it will stay warm and has no risk of freezing up. Look at the VW oil separator - it’s nothing like a typical PCV and once separated drains back to the block via an integrated channel in the head and block. BMW is the one recommending walnut blasting on a schedule. VW claims their cam timing and all keeps the valves clean enough that cleaning isn’t needed, at least for a long while. Pulling the intake off my ea888 gen3b at 70k miles for cleaning proved VW was generally correct. Minimal build up and cleaning did nothing for performance and idle.

[@briantii]

@@LancemechanicsThey’re still doing it, just have improved it to the point where it’s not a standalone can anymore.

[@ehsnils]

@@briantii One issue with it is that a standalone can is seeing better cooling and therefore more oil condensation that could be fed back to the engine. Vehicle manufacturers want it cheap and yesterday.

[@NoahTheFacts]

Some cars now have both port and direct injection, at both low RPM and low throttle demand, the port injection is active, washing the intake with fuel. At either high RPM or heavy throttle application, it switches to direct injection. A catch can with a vacuum-activated drain back into the sump would be brilliant. It could never freeze, as it would drain periodically during operation and when off.

[@MrJFunk]

Thanks for letting us know. I have a 2023 BMW X3 with about 11,000 miles. I do my oil changes at 5000 miles. Going to look into installing an oil catch can for sure! Appreciate you.

[@MrJFunk]

@@ToddMcDonald-zh4ymYeah only top tier fuel for sure. Crazy that BMW does oil changes every 10,000 miles.

[@mr.nobody68]

Instead of a catch can, OEMs need to install something that will just send that oil back to the crank case. Or better yet, straight to the filter

[@snamachinery]

My 1999 Volvo has an oil catch can that drains by gravity back into the crank case.

[@user-xx5po3lo3s]

Yes, I installed a catch can on my civic 1.5 Turbo. It works really well. Don't see much in it in warm weather but in winter hear in Manitoba Canada with warm up etc. it can fill the can within 2 oil changes, 5 k changes. I think its a must, at least for my civic.

[@Lancemechanics]

Got same engine in my 22 civic. Worked at Honda for 5 years. Can't stress how important these are and specially those oil changes. :) good stuff man

[@machinehead6892]

The best fix is to run water vapor injection, keeps valves, cylinders, and intake perfectly clean, and the oil stays cleaner longer.

[@ajforms4818]

except when the water goes where it's not wanted, or the reservoir gets to be empty........

[@69A12SuperBee]

This is why Toyota still use the hybrid system with an injector in the intake stream.

[@nathanrice1796]

Thanks for showing us this trick.

[@HarmonicResearch]

My 04 Volvo has a huge OEM oil catch chamber built-into the crankcase vent system that's good for 100,000 miles before it needs cleaning or replacing. It's too big to have problems with freezing or filling up with oil.

[@victortaveira8271]

That's why modern synthetic oil has some detergent added, so PCV and Valves have less bild up. Every manual from any manufacturer has one item about cleaning intake valves procedures and it's quite ease to do when things aren't so in despair. Some manufacturer, notably mercedes Toyota and VW, commands their ECU to run the engine in an extreme version of Miller cycle for to let gas vapours get in intake and clean valves or make the engine run preferably on Miller cycle. So a good quality gasoline and few tanks of high quality in between avoids this problem, also ALWAYS look to use gas with the best detergents and lubricants package on the market

What is a good quality gasoline? I buy QT 87 octane.

[@victortaveira8271]

If you’re driving some high compression engine, 91 octane is better at least, but i don’t know your car and always follow instruction from your manufacturer. More important is additive package how your favorite gas station take care of the gas: not selling out of date gas, cleaning tanks regularly or take care of things accordingly

[@pdterre5496]

Just talked to a local at the petrol station café who commutes a Mini and had this problem. Changed oil at 15 tkm. Will tip him on this. He was strongly leaning towards bying a EV! Cheers from Finland.

[@kathrynwhitby9799]

i recall a lot of early (60s/70s) Austin/Morris engines had an oil 'seperator' in the crankcase ventilation hose.

[@kevindowell6003]

Occasional water injection should go a long way to addressing carbon build up on the valves and pistons it is one of the variations of the Italian tune up

[@catnaplappdx5001]

Undersized engines, turbos, VVTs, CVTs, as well as GDI and its issues. I looked at all this unavoidable tech after 45 years of manual hatchbacks and went with a re-batteried Bolt EV. All the spinney bits running in ball bearings, quiet, and the quickest thing I'll ever own.

[@aussietaipan8700]

Catch cans will help to mitigate the effects of direct fuel injection but the other thing about catch cans is they clod up with oil and water mist, then over time block the oil mist passages. In my cars, I remove the can each 30,000km to flush out the can tubes and change or clean the oil tubes running from the PCV and crank case to the can. Yep, a bit more service items but the engines are clean.

[@Lancemechanics]

Appreciate the input. As I mentioned later in the video it's a high maintenance item and not for people who can barely manage oil changes :)

[@bruehlt]

Not much room in a modern engine bay for a catch can nowadays - which is a shame.

[@broeheemed32]

I would think that the minor benefits from direct injection aren't worth the costly repairs they seem to cause. I'll stick with port injection. In fact, for this - and many other - reasons, I won't be buying anything newer, I'll just keep dumping occasional "truck payments" into my trusty 23-year-old F-150 as necessary.

[@scroungasworkshop4663]

Direct port injection gives better fuel efficiency and engine performance. It’s the EGR system that causes the problem and that’s purely an anti pollution device mandated by the EPA.

[@DeepakKumar-lv4te]

@@scroungasworkshop4663 don't blame regulations, blame mfrs for failing in design because they don't want to spend the development dollars. Face it, they hate that cars last 15-20 years, if they can bring it down to sub 10 years sales go up dramatically and folks are turned off buying used cars. Exactly as they want it.

[@johnarnold893]

It's the PCV that causes it. EGR doesn't have oil in it.

[@kenmorrisproducer]

@@scroungasworkshop4663The pcv system is not the same as the egr system. Positive crankcase ventilation bleeds pressure from the engine interior. Exhaust gas recirculation bleeds from the exhaust to lower combustion temperatures in diesel engines. They are not the same thing.

[@scroungasworkshop4663]

@@kenmorrisproducer I didn’t say they were.

[@jet328i2]

How about just go back to port injection and ditch direct injection.

[@mr.gutwrench]

Or throttle body

[@matsudakodo]

I'm not sure about other makes, but I drive Mazda Skyactiv cars and they take a while to build up carbon; to equal what you showed in this video which seems to be an extreme example, it would take north of 200k miles. I'll probably just take the head off and have it walnut blasted at some point as it doesn't seem to cause issues before at least 100k. As for the catch can, I've read enough accounts of crankcase venting problems, leaking main seals, frozen cans, and stinky garages (followed by removal of the catch can) that I'll probably just skip it. The problem you're showing is real and I'm not saying they don't help some cars, but at this point I don't think I'll spring for one. These engines also have an oil separator under the intake manifold.

[@krazy8ball]

Blow by from low tension rings and EGR is recirculating from crankcase vapors. So it’s really not because it is a GDI it’s because it’s recirculating the vapors. Now GDI can’t wash it clean like a EFI in the intake. It happens on both types of injection it’s just noticeable on GDI. Good videos! Thanks

[@emotionz3]

Preventing carbon buildup isn’t a functional benefit of an oil catch can. They simply cannot filter the vapors fine enough while still venting pressure to the intake. Their original, and still best application, is to prevent oil buildup in the intake under high crankcase pressure applications, usually engines with a lot of boost. While some production consumer engines now are pushing 20+ PSI, a catch can still won’t notably reduce carbon buildup on valves. One cannot “prevent” carbon buildup on valves in modern direct injection engines that are prone to carbon problems (engines that lack proper valve and cylinder coatings to prevent collection and blow by, engines without a combination of direct injection and port injection, etc.) But you can properly treat the problem. Routine oil changes not beyond 5000 miles before detergents and oil additives break down and cannot encapsulate carbon causing molecules in the crankcase slows carbon buildup, potentially preventing the need for walnut blasting, allowing the use of solvents on a regular interval (every other oil change) to time release into the intake and dissolve on the valves before the carbon is too thick.

[@cmscms123456]

Before PCV valves, there used to be a drop tube.. The press from the underside of the block was just vented to the outside... a down draft tube. PCV problem is, you are drawing about 12 pounds of vacuum on the bottom end of your engine, but the bottom end of your engine is only producing about 2 pounds of pressure, so.. its kinda like sucking on a straw on the very bottom of a empty milkshake cup... you're drawing up some milk, that ordinarily would not be. Disconnect the tube running to the PCV valve, make a down draft tube, and plug the vacuum line. FIXED.

That would make you fail emissions though, wouldn't it?

[@cmscms123456]

it would fail visual inspection.. it takes less than 5 minutes sto swap back.. it wink save your engine

[@ajforms4818]

I question your logic. I measure the pressure in the PCV system, on the intake side, as inches of vacuum, and on the crankcase side as pressure. Air always moves from a high pressure (psi) area, to a low-pressure(vacuum) area. IE; the intake manifold does not suck the vapors out; rather CC pressure tries to push them out thru the restrictive PCV. Yes, you can ventilate your CC straight to atmosphere; which does work while the engine is running, but what happens when you shut the engine off and it begins to cool off. I'll tell you; Atmospheric air at high pressure,(14.7psi) flows back up your makeshift road-draft tube, and into the low-pressure CC, caused by the cooling parts , bringing with it, contaminants and moisture. ......... um, which the closed PCV system was designed to eliminate. So, without calling your intelligence into question; I wonder if it's a good thing to recommend stepping backwards into history, as concerns the PCV system. I'm 71, and I lived thru that era, and not interested in going back. IMO, the external catch-can, while being far from perfect, is still a good alternative, to some of the super-junkie. wholly inadequate, PCV systems out there . I mean com' on GM, you know better. You were a pioneer back in the days when engineers could actually think and innovate.

[@jamestone265]

Our 2018 Ford and 2015 Honda have had catch can separators since almost new. There is always oil in each when checked each 1000 miles. It gives me some peace of mind. The Fords is not aftermarket but a Ford Performance for race car because they know they will be serviced…

[@Lancemechanics]

Coming from the honda side of things you did the right thing! :)

[@larryhutchens7593]

My sister in law had a near disaster on her Ford pick up that developed a leak in the fuel line somewhere between the low & high pressure system. Seems that the local dealership (yes, a Phord dealership) had replaced a section of the wiring harness that required removal of the intake manifold & that section of the fuel supply line. They either forgot to replace some O-rings or damaged same. She made it down here from Missouri to our place near Tulsa. When she got ready to leave she couldn't get the engine started. I noticed a strong smell of raw gas & saw gasoline running out under the truck. Lots of gas, a major leak. Long story short, we contacted the dealership in Missouri, told them where it was leaking (they had done the work only a few days before she left) and told us to take it to a local Ford dealer & they would cover the cost. She became seriously worried about the situation so my son bought the truck. We are aware of the direct injection/ twin turbo/ PCV carbon situation on those vehicles so I will tell my son about that device. Thanks for the video, you seem to run an honest shop.

[@jeezusjr]

I'm putting an L8T in a classic truck, these Gen 5 SBC engines have this problem too. Thanks for the tip!!

[@Lancemechanics]

Glad to help

[@rallyerudi1678]

Route the engine breather into a part of the chassis. No more oil in the intake plus corrosion prevention for the chassis.

[@sgcole111]

Just remember that we have timing chains now, so most cars no longer need timing belt replacement at 100k miles. So you need an intake valve cleaning instead at 80k to 100k. $600-$1000. Seems just like a swap of one service for another.

[@Lancemechanics]

Done cleanings as early as 20k km on Honda and vw. At least Honda has tsbs to help cover it. Also replaced injectors. "2300$" and updated ecm as part of it.

[@randyprentice9292]

The elephant in the room with these gdi engines is, not only is the soot from over fuelling going into the oil. It is going out the tail pipe as micro soot. These gdi engines are one step away from being mandated a def style system to control this. Wait for it, its coming. Tail pipes on all these vehicles are full of carbon. Check for yourself.

[@firzen0000]

I've been saying this for years! A catch can is a must.

[@Lancemechanics]

its slowly becoming common. hellcat owners are swearing by them! :P

[@milfordcivic6755]

This is old technology that plagues the first GDI engines that came out in the late 2000s/early 2010s (BMW, LExus, VW, Audi). Most new GDI engines have an oil separator in the PCV system now to avoid this issue. Putting an aftermarket jerry-rigged catch can reduces the ability of the built in system to do its job.

[@COBRO98]

@@milfordcivic6755 GDI has been around since at least the 1960s.. they didn't go with it because it was obvious back then that valves would get clogged.. Engineers today are morons, they can't even build a road that lasts 8 years anymore.

[@Johnnie-Concrete]

@@milfordcivic6755 Catch cans have been out for a lot longer than the 2000s. They were standard stuff on old classics, jags etc. The proper stuff from 30 s 40s and so on.

[@michaelbloom5342]

I cleaned my Mazda SkyActiv valves with some walnut shells. It was easy and did wonders for the car. Took me 2 hours having never done it before. When the next 100,000 miles comes around, it'll take me 30 minutes.

[@TheVigilantEye77]

HOW ?

[@michaelbloom5342]

With a media blaster.

[@TheVigilantEye77]

@@michaelbloom5342 I meant heads off on a stand ? On car ? How to keep walnut bits out of engine to avoid damage ?

[@TheVigilantEye77]

@@michaelbloom5342 30 minutes seems fast to access valves clean and clean up 🧐

[@michaelbloom5342]

@@TheVigilantEye77 Yeah, it is fast. But working on a Mazda is just that easy! With experience, you can easily have the intake manifold off in 5-ish minutes.

[@rolandtamaccio3285]

The increased compression and combustion pressure doesn't cause much more blowby . The port injection engines had close to the same blowby ; however the ports , runners , and backs of valves are constantly washed in a sequential port injected engine , and stay clean . A catch can might help a little . This is another reason electric is on the way . I actually think a combined port and second system direct injection is better . But it's that complication that will help kill the ICE ,,, !

[@MJPilote]

Its not the oil mist, its egr sooth that is the biggest problem. It mixes wit the oil making all that mess in the intake.

[@JustBadly]

Carbon deposits on the valves are not the only problem. DI engines burn is less complete than port injection, carbon particles in the oil will wear the camchain!

[@TheMissingxtension]

Or the catch can just empty into the oil pan every time you turn it off by vacuum from the engine.... Either way there is a filter and moisture gets burned

[@bradgreen987]

Get an IAG air/ oil separator. It's heated by engine coolant, and requires no maintenance. Oil drains back into the block

[@Lancemechanics]

Will check it out :)

[@alank616]

The EGR valve is a main cause of carbon build up also .

[@ATSNorthernMI]

All the above. Carbon buildup from the PCV and EGR systems. Modern fuels have cleaners that are supposed to clean the intake valves but with direct injection, they no longer work as intended.

[@marklannie9281]

If catch cans were needed they would fit them from new. Change your oil every 6000 miles like we did before the lease companies started to dictate the service intervals.

[@Lancemechanics]

That's already explained why they dont

[@kevinthacker8349]

Hopefully you do a how to install asap. Just got my car and would like to fit a catch can.

[@Lancemechanics]

Finally getting some free time come Sept:)

[@JeredtheShy]

Love that they added a brand new just about guaranteed failure state to every new car in exchange for marginal gains in fuel economy, a couple MPG, nothing special. Make the engine and the car smaller for even larger gains? Absolutely not, unthinkable, criminal, but if it plugs up just after the warranty period, that's not our problem.

Blame US government mandates.

[@VictorMaxol]

0:31 John C.Reilly right there.

[@tidalmantim]

I had to do a double take at first!

[@kenmorrisproducer]

Omg I thought this too! In a very positive way!

[@cobrapond]

Buy a Toyota problem solved. They don't have this problem because they use both styles of fuel injector.

[@zerkfiter]

I understand lots of Fords also have both.

[@rusack7174]

On the contrary, not all Toyota engines employ both.

[@cobrapond]

@@rusack7174 I'm not saying your wrong I'm just curious what years were direct only I personally only ever saw both back when I was working in a shop.

[@glennbishop-smith9957]

@@cobrapondToyota’s dual injection system, they call it D4S, only came around on a few engines starting in 2016 or 17. My daughter’s 2014 Camry 4cyl is direct only. My wife’s 2018 Highlander Hybrid V6 has it. It’s funny, apparently Toyota denies that the system has anything to do with keeping intake valves clean, they say that under certain conditions port injection just works better. Whatever, I’m just glad they have it.

[@cobrapond]

@@glennbishop-smith9957 Well I learned something new, I guess most of our customers either had older cars with port only or newer ones with D4S.

[@jamesbarran-scott437]

That explains why I’m seeing so many Mini Cooper s,s up for sale that have had top end rebuilds , new valves and walnut blasts done 🙄

[@Lancemechanics]

Problem is by time they get the walnut blasts done the oil control rings are completely carboned up too. So you need to r-ring the bottom end at the same time. I did this religiously on Honda gdi engines. was always asking Our engineering department why we didn't do this and it was Liability. maintenance items are more costly long term then just warranting a couple engines

[@chuckschillingvideos]

That and the fact that Minis are straight garbage.

[@internetpointsbank]

They have head gasket and timing chain guide issues.

[@robertdavis5714]

Nice thorough production Sir. One of the 1st things I did to my MK7 VW GTI (w/ Golf R Turbo), catch can with with removal of plastic PCV valve, after doing a chemical cleaning 1st. Clean out every oil change and the amount of crud is unbelievable.

[@obsoleteprofessor2034]

California: Sorry...modified emissions system...fail smog check...pay your non-op fee and present your vehicle for recycling. Have a nice trip in the electric bus we provide for you.

[@robbalinski1606]

the killers are crank case venting to intake and exhaust recirculation back into the intake, delete both and solve everything.

[@hotrodray6802]

PCV goes back to 1963. EGR to '75. 😐

[@adrianiacob1991]

Oil catch can either you remember to change your damn oil every 5000 miles, 6000 max!!! Still, not too late to go back to 90s - 2000s car, with port injection and less prone to break under user abuse... Why people buy that shit from the dealer, with oil change at 15k mile either two years for oil service? Have they got nuts???

[@chiappettamark]

4.6L Towncar engine gets clogged EGR passages due to the valveseals giving up around 110kmiles. wonder if the dominant oil vapor is from the PCV valve? Catchcan would be the best solution for them 4.6Ls if so. Valveseals are a big job on that OHC V8.

[@iused2bfast153]

Just change your oil and filter every 3k miles with quality synthetic, catch cans installed inline in a modern pcv system only collect condensation that would get burned off in the engine anyways. Catch cans were originally designed for old school race engines with no pcv system and at high rpms would blow oil out the valve cover breather. Anybody that thinks they reduce carbon buildup on a modern engine have been fooled by good advertising.

[@hotrodray6802]

LOL...

[@robertwalker9638]

My 2019 vehicle. has both direct and port injection. This helps to solve this poorly engineered development.

[@philllsxga.7737]

It's not all modern engines!! My buddy and I had 2014 Silverados With the new Lt v8. He had 154,000 miles on his, I had 148,000 on mine. Neither one of us had any issues with the engine at all!! When we traded the trucks in we were still in the mid too low 24 MPG average. GM has the issue figured out at least with the 5.3s other car companies do not...

[@hotrodray6802]

Are they GDI ???

[@russellmaddock3492]

Added a catch can on my 2017 Yukon. It does what it is supposed to do. Now instead of oil carbonizing on the intake valves, I simply empty the catch can periodically. They are easy to install and how hard is it to unscrew the can and empty it periodically. Sense I only drive my Yukon in the summer months, the liquid in the can looks like oil. From what I understand, when driving in cold weather, the can will have a milkier looking substance due to condensation building up in the can due to temperature changes from hot to cold. Thanks for the informative and very important video.

[@Lancemechanics]

Ty for response. Love seeing people who are already using it.

[@randalhampton2966]

Maintain your own cars or train to be a speed walker.

[@ArnoldsDesign]

Thanks for this recommendation. I've been going to do this for a while now. I have a 2019 Toyota Yaris (Mazda 2) with a 1.5L DI engine. Every 5,000 miles I run a can of crc intake valve and turbo cleaner through the manifold as directed the same afternoon I do the oil change. I haven't run a bore scope to check to see if it works, but I'm at 72,000 mi now with no issues. My engine hates the cleaner. It coughs and gags, and just generally runs rough later in the process, and I always have to clear a "running rich" code afterward. It seems like I'm abusing the engine, and seems to be a case of, "is the medicine worse than the illness". I would rather use a catch can, and then use the cleaner a couple more cycle to clean off any remaining deposits, and then just use the catch can alone.

[@RobsNeighbor]

Great video Lance, Thank you for sharing

[@Lancemechanics]

thanks man! cheers :D

[@jamesduncan578]

Awesome information, thanks for sharing.

[@Lancemechanics]

Glad it was helpful!

[@EnglishTurbines]

In the old days, the crankcase had this thing called a breather..and no, it didn't vent into the intake.... Environmentalists brought this about....🤔😳🙄...The "Catch Can" wont get it all because oil droplets are suspended as vapour in the blowby gas...🤔🇬🇧

[@pepeshopping]

Well engineered engines have PROPER oil separators built-in!!! Some makers play with valve timing to clean the valves. In other words, this is only a problem for older GDI designs or current cheaper engines that do not have the valve timing control.

[@chasl3645]

Put a fluid sensor in the can so that you know when it needs to be cleaned out.

[@uppastdawn7627]

I used to have a Chrysler Conquest and A fix for a fuel adder if you added boost was to add another fuel injector in the intake pipe. I thought about this when this whole gunky valve/Direct injection foolishness first became a thing. They’re sort of doing that now- port and direct injection. The best solution to the problem. Or, buy something old.😂

[@jeromepaulsen]

This is one reason why I purchased a Honda HRV, port injection, I don't have to worry about carbon build up. Love the vehicle, I owned the first generation now I drive a 2024.

[@Lancemechanics]

The only vehicle when I worked at Honda we never worked on for other then maintenance. 1 recall. The resale value on those things are incredible

[@Krunch2020]

I’m glad Ford uses port and direct injection on the 3.5 turbo.

[@olivierroy1301]

They could've add an automatic purge valve on the catch can and nobody would forget to drain it.

[@Krunch2020]

You could drain it back to the oil pan but then your oil would be contaminated.

[@pfsantos007]

@@Krunch2020 Yes, but not any more than it already is with the PCV system.

[@Jay-me7gw]

@@pfsantos007 The PCV system removes the contaminants and burns them in the engine though. All a catch can does is catch the stuff. If you drain it back to the sump then you are just recycling it back in.

[@olivierroy1301]

Where does the PCV system takes its "contaminants"? In the vapors. Vapors will still find their way to the intake. Only the oil will have a chance to condense and accumulate in the oil catch can. The oil catch can have a tube going back to the intake. The only thing that's missing is the draining valve, for when the car is turned off. The little solenoid valve opens and the oil find its way back to the oil pan. That's how I see it. Many industrial air compressors have such valve that will drain the air drier periodically.

[@Jay-me7gw]

@@olivierroy1301 other things will condense out in a catch can, especially in the winter when it’s cold. My f150 can would probably quadruple what it could in the winter and when you dumped it out it would separate into different layers

[@pingpong9656]

Dimple Piston technology will allow EGR to be eliminated - that is another source of heavy carbon. That, combined with modern synth oil should fix the issue.

[@loc4725]

Use quality fuel, regularly take your vehicle on a 30+ minute run at high rev's low load, do frequent (6 month / 3k mile, whichever sooner) oil changes, consider buying a Toyota which has dual injectors (port + direct) which periodically washes the intake valves with fuel.

[@rusack7174]

But, what if I don't want a Toyota? Also, not all Toyota GDI engines emply the D-4S system.

[@loc4725]

@@rusack7174 *"But, what if I don't want a Toyota?"* I know of no other brand that -gives a siht about it's customers like this- employs this technique. *"Also, not all Toyota GDI engines emply the D-4S system."* Which is why I said "consider buying a Toyota _which_ has dual injectors". Vote with your money and favour brands which not only want to sell you your next vehicle but your next 7 vehicles.

[@bobdoingbobthings]

My old Mercedes 240d had a check valve in the bottom of the catch can that drained any captured oil back to the crankcase.

[@robertpsotka3525]

Until it was leaking like a pig everywhere else

[@g-mang-man7924]

While I loved W123 body Benz's (Did my mechanic apprenticeship at a Benz dealer) you could almost run faster than a 240D. 300D Turbo engines puked oil from what seemed like every orifice. I was constantly resealing vacuum pumps, sub oil pans, valve covers and oil filter canister gaskets!

[@bobdoingbobthings]

@@g-mang-man7924 Yup. I used to tell people I measured 0-60 on a calendar.

[@g-mang-man7924]

@@bobdoingbobthings Ever get a chance to drive a W115 200D? A VW Beetle with a 1300cc would outrun those!

[@bobdoingbobthings]

@@g-mang-man7924 No, but I once drove a w116 300CD. That was the slowest car I've ever driven.

[@RayleighCriterion]

The problem is the ring lands get carbonized and then more blow by and oil consumption starts, this is caused by ethanol fuels the most. A product like Yamalube Ring Free Plus helps to clean the carbon deposits in the combustion chambers.

[@Lancemechanics]

Was common for me to re ring 3.5l Honda engines. So much build up in the oil control rings

[@ajforms4818]

How does ethanol fuel cause carbonized ring lands ? Furthermore, this article is not addressing carbon that is already inside your cylinders and/or chambers. Rather, it is talking about preventing carbon build-up in the intake ports and on the back of the intake valves, specifically on direct-injected engines, in the first place. If/when, that stuff breaks loose and enters your combustion chambers, what's to stop it from getting jammed in your rings, and scratching the cylinder walls up, and/or causing detonation?

[@rossmoore5582]

Reduce the amount of short trips, cold engine equals over fueling to warm it up faster. Short trips also put fuel into the oil oil dilution is a big problem worse in cold climates

[@lauriedooker1031]

A gr Yaris has both direct and port injection but still for heavy work like on track it needs a oil catch can also .

[@307pug205]

Problem is intensified if engine is only driven slowly, we get a lot of during school cars in with this problem

[@TurboJohn74]

catch can plus 50/50 meth injection... now you're really doing something (for us DI carbon OCD people)

[@Schlum99]

I have a 2011 f150 with the 3.5l eco boost engine that does not have the post injection, and have installed catch cans both on the intake and exhaust side and use Amsoil oil formulated for lower vaporization. The intake can was accumulating about 3/4” to 1” of oil every 6k miles, and with the Amsoil I am getting about half.

[@Lancemechanics]

Ty for sharing. All Important info@

[@petehenderson]

Clean the inside with water sucked thru a vacuum line

[@67polara]

in addition, most engines, the intake valve closes after bottom dead center. So definitely at slow engine speeds Some of the mixture in the cylinder gets pumped right back out the intake valve.. this is by design to produce really good power in the mid range and higher RPM. But they didn’t think about it with the direct injection obviously. My guess is at this problem is worse for people that barely ever get their engine above 2000 or 3000 RPM and not quite as bad for folks that have it in the higher RPM all the time