How to Seal and Protect Styrofoam Terrain (Episode 010)

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How to seal and protect your terrain made from styrofoam or foamcore board. This is the easiest way to make your pieces durable enough for the game table.
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[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

I have mostly stopped using this stuff, check my essential equipment page at www.blackmagiccraft.ca for info on what I'm currently using.

[@CountDracusVanWolfen]

The reason its not melting is because of the paint. Acrylic finishes may have differing levels of acrylic and urethane. Typically, the more urethane a finish has, the harder and more durable the finish is. The addition of urethane makes the resin more durable and more resistant to scratches. Acrylic is actually a version of polyurethane without oil.

[@cmuralhas]

Hi, I can’t find the Krylon available on amazon. i ended up ordering a Rustoleum Crystal Clear Matt. Have you tried it? Thanks

[@phoenixcinder]

curious what the reason was for you dropping the miniwax and using the krylon instead. I am almost at the final stage for spraying. Thx

[@avarietychannel4759]

sorry, didn't mean to sound rude, truly. I w have been working steadily on converting garage into studio. The v flats were l the last part and i'm tired :( then the spray ate them while I watched...

[@charlesstonebarger7968]

I watched this video and another that said minwax would not melt styrofoam. I tried it and it melted the styrofoam. Be careful about what you hear on youtube.

[@TheWerdnavro]

Man.... The detail of those houses are insane.... Great Work!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Thanks very much.

[@TheDMGinfo]

It is not the product itself that reacts with the foams, it is the propellant used. You can buy spray paints that have non-reactive propellant in them. Using cardboard mostly I don't have this problem and I don't seal, but obviously there is a detail difference between cardboard and foam. Great video

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Thanks Gareth, yea the two brands must use different propellants, or possibly even different solvents. Either way this stuff is a godsend for us foamworkers.

[@Assorted12]

I saw you mention before that foam is hard to get in AU. I use both regularly. I started out with only cardboard and didn't seal anything, but since I've started using more and more foam I seal everything. I have gone back and have even sealed my cardboard crafts. I enjoy the harder texture that the sealing coat gives, as well as the protection from accidental spills.

[@TheDMGinfo]

!It is not that it is hard to get it is just really expensive

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Curious, just how expensive is it? Here a 2'x8' sheet of 1/2" is just under $10CDN and 1" double that, 2" quadruple, ect. So here it's a very cheap material I'd say, you can make a TON of stuff with one $10 sheet.

[@TheDMGinfo]

600mm x 500mm x 25mm at AUD$20 per sheet (so that works out about 1/3 of a square meter for $20 and you usually have to buy in bulk). So you are getting 2430mm x 609mm for less than $10. For me to buy the same works out at about AUD$100 (or about CAD$98.56) :)

[@Dagnar1478]

You're an inspiration man. I've been playing DnD almost 15 years now without ever seeing anything more intricate than dryerase board and reused minis. Now all I can think about is making sweet polystyrene DnD items. Thanks brother.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

That's awesome, you'll be addicted to elaborate terrain now.

[@andrewmiller2236]

Best piece of advice for crafting ever posted. Thanks so much!!! Love your stuff btw.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Thanks. Too many horror stories on fb lately about people melting their work!

[@derekcutsinger3511]

I'm going to binge-watch your entire channel today. Awesome stuff! Subscribed.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Awesome

[@darrenp9454]

I have been searching for product like this for a long time, thanks for the info and thanks for the video, you make awesome stuff.

[@BillAllanWorld]

Great tip! I haven't gotten into my styrofoam phase (most of your projects/designs are on my To Do List), but this will be a big help when I delve into that stuff. Thanks!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Styrofoam building is VERY addictive, because once you get the hang of it you can build basically anything.

[@TortueBulle]

Ohh gosh! i just bought polyurathane because i watched another video of yours. Today I watch this video, and you just saved my project! I bought Varathane... glad i didn't use it! Thank you, you are the best!

[@gamercraftsstudio7052]

just picked up some today, can't wait to try it out on sealing my new tiles. thanks for the tip!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Awesome, and don't forget to test on some scrap first just incase.

[@sassysueanneluchenta5017]

You just saved my Halloween build and now I know about a new hobby to try

[@LCommando19]

Love the content so far! If you could do an episode on painting tips (black wash, air brush dos and don'ts) and what are good brands/general processes that would be awesome to see

[@puckett2k2009]

The Miniwax tip is, perhaps, the most awesome crafting tip I have ever absorbed. I and my foam scraps thank you! It's on!!!!!!!!!!!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Glad to be of service :)

[@StrongholdCrafterKev]

Great tip. I'll have to look into that in the future. Thanks for sharing.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Yea I think your keep could use a couple coats once it's all done.

[@Terranscapes]

Great tip on the Mod Podge filling in gaps for a better bond. :) The Minwax PU spray is another great tip. I'm thinking it might be a water based PU and so is foam safe. A solid coating sounds like very good protection. If you wanted to spray a primer, you can use acrylic spray paints. There are some common brands out there, and some artists sprays with great spray patterns. Not necessarily better than painting via brush, but just another option. Just found your channel. Glad I did. :)

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Hey Mike, I'm glad you found the channel too, made my day. As for the minwax, I am fairly certain that it is not water based as the clean up instructions on it are mineral spirits/paint thinner. Also minwax does make a line of water based products that are branded quite differently in both colour of label and name (polycrylic), they are just less readily available than the one I show here. So this leads me to believe that while not water based either the solvent or propellant used is somehow less aggressive than the ones used it competitor brands like varethane.

[@Terranscapes]

Good info. Thanks. There are so many damn products out there these days. Nice to see someone experimenting. :)

[@dominicr5516]

I’ve been using the minwax water based polycrylic matte spray (blue labeled can)... works great! Thanks for the investigative grunt work.

[@dablakh0l193]

Another spray you can use that doesn't melt Styrofoam is Bulls-eye shellac. I use a few coats of this under and over my painted parts. In fact, I have even used Bondo on top of the shellac, for super textured parts, and anyone who works with Styrofoam crafts knows what Bondo can do to raw Styrofoam surfaces. The shellac also dries in a few minutes because the solvent in shellac is regular alcohol, and that does nothing to Styrofoam. Also, the Minwax polyurethanes are usually water based, hence not hurting the surface. Unfortunately, the water based polyurethanes take much longer to dry than the shellac and that's why I prefer the shellac over the polys.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Good tip on the bullseye....but for the record the mini wax polyurethane that I use and show here is not water based. They do have a water based variety available as well but it is labled as such and is called Polycrylic. This stuff is mineral spirits clean up and a true polyurethane.

[@lilamnestia]

Your videos inspire me. I want to start making terrain pieces for my D&D group to use in our campaigns. I might start that next week! :D Keep being awesome!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Awesome, do it!

[@jak3legacy]

Your intro music is possibly the coolest intro music I've heard on youtube.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Thanks, I wrote it myself.

[@olliespackrt5763]

5 years ago I think maybe the cans have changed but I'm still gonna go buy some and try it thank you so much great video

[@issacgallegos7126]

“I dont know why, im not a chemist” love it

[@WylochsArmory]

Awesome, thanks for the tips.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Hope you find it useful.

[@CajunCraft24]

I needed this info in my life and I thank you

[@FirstRoundFireball]

Thanks! definitely adding this to the arsenal.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Now that I've started using this stuff, I can't imagine not.

[@BejaVue]

I am planning on carving some bricks for an upcoming project. I was planning on mixing some school glue into the paint to use for both antiquing & sealing. I wasn't sure if I could use glue or Mod Podge on Foam Board. Thanks for this video, it really answered my questions. I made a topiary out of styrofoam balls that I covered with coffee grounds & painted. I used a lot of colors for the shading. I did mix school glue in the paint I used. And after it was all completed I added some additional glue. I just wasn't sure if the foam in foam board would react the same as styrofoam.

[@slickschoppers]

YOU ROCK!! I just a ton of time on my first project, and then wanted to seal it, but didn't want to ruin hours of work. I got Minwax Satin at our local walmart, took it home, tried to spray it on a test piece from a couple inches away, and IT ATE IT!! I thought,, what the heck? then I tried something. instead of a couple inches (being 2 inches away) I pulled the can back to normal spraying distance, i'm guessing 4 to 6 inches away. WORKED PERFECTLY!! the Minwax will not eat foam!!! BUT!!! if you get the can close enough for the actuall propellant to hit the foam,, then it will!! I had already tried quite a few other sealers and it didn't matter if I was 2 inches away, or 12" away they simply ate the foam. Minwax worked like a charm!! just don't be stupid like me and get SUPER SUPER close!! again,, THANK YOU!!! this was a huge help!!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

This is exactly why you always test first, even when using a new can of the same product! But yea, in general you should always be spraying "6-"12 away from your work when using any spray, it is safer, but will also apply more evenly and you will avoid drips and runs. Cheers

[@thefooly]

Love your houses

[@Assorted12]

Black MC, thanks for the info, and great job on those buildings. They inspire me to try my hand at a full structure but I lack your talent...I'll still give it a try though.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Don't sell yourself short, just build.

[@ProDigit80]

You're a lifesaver! I was looking for a spray can, because their wood finish was a very good product, but it's harder to apply! Thanks for the tip, it's valuable!

[@ScavengerKing]

Thanks, I asked about this in the last livestream - its super useful to have a reference video like this

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

A bunch of upcoming video projects are going to have this as the last step so I wanted a dedicated video explaining it so people didn't end up trying with a different brand and ruining their work.

[@ScavengerKing]

the modgepodge is something I had not considered - do you water it down or use it straight up?

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

I use it straight out of the pot, but I dip my brush in water often just to make it flow a little better. I find it easier to spread than watered down pva and it seems to be better at not filling up fine detail.

[@marcusrudd6675]

Loving these vids

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Thanks

[@kevinwatts8221]

A bold strategy Cotton. We'll have to see how that works out for me!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Good luck starfox!

[@miguelangelpicazo7130]

please make a video with everything you have on the shelves ....

[@DorianPhQ]

Just getting into making my own terrain (as well as some light forging - perhaps I'll add the two at some point), and I had a question about sealants: Is it better to spray, or can I use a brush and paint it on? Is this the right place to ask such questions? Thank you, and I love your videos! Damn educational, and fun to watch! Gives me so many ideas to want to make!

[@Corvus-fw2hr]

Thanks! I've got a good handful of stuff that gets hauled around, so finding a way to seal it is pretty frigin' clutch.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

hope it serves you well!

[@kragsailnprocraipuer1330]

You are talented

[@SoulMusician360]

To summarize, modgepodge for big pieces, minwax for smaller? Love your channel, my husband and I are dnd enthusiasts and I've recently started DMing and wanted to add more to our sessions for immersion. Found your channel and love what you do!!

[@mattk4093]

Its works because it's an Oil based poly instead of water (the yellow can is satin oil based if I recall)

[@PuttingOnTheFoil]

Acetone is one of the main culprits in spray cans melting foam. Years ago, 3M #77 spray adhesive was foam safe, then they added acetone to the horror of many hobbyists - particularly in the RC airplane community. Acetone was used as a more environmentally safe replacement for other ingredients.

[@johnwelsh7524]

That was one of the better videos (if not top 3) I have seean on sealing projects. Thatnks for posting it. Hopefully they do sell miniwax so I can try it as well. However I have used watered down modge podge and a spray bottle. It is a pain to clean the bottle but it does work ok.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

I use mod podge a lot too! Sometimes both mod podge and the miniwax. Hopefully you find some.

[@Blandco]

Interesting stuff. I never worked much with foam. Maybe I will try out a project.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Never hurts to test out materials

[@TheRunesmythe]

As a preface, I want to state that I know not everyone's experiences will be like my own. I'm just putting it out there based on what I've done and experienced and people can feel free to take it or leave it. That being said, I've successfully used the glue coating method to seal foam in preparation for rattle can painting. A lot of advice you find on it talks about mixing the PVA with water but I actually advise against this; while it may seem a little easier getting into all the nooks and crannies with watered down glue, you're more likely to wind up with bare spots or extremely thin coatings that don't offer much protection. Full strength PVA, applied with a crappy brush you no longer care about, and I usually do two or three coats. As long as you don't go crazy with how much glue you're glooping on, it can be spread out well and easily enough that you won't lose any details, and the extra coats shouldn't be a problem either. This had the added benefit of also helping to strengthen your pieces of foam even before painting and sealing; the shell it creates is tough enough that you'd really have to try to break it or chip it, and I imagine that in conjunction with a final sealer coat of varnish, be it polyurethane or something else, would really increase the protection. Now, I realize that this is a lengthy process and I don't blame anyone for not wanting to go through it and just brushing on an acrylic paint base coat. My intention in sharing this wasn't to say that either method is better than the other (obviously all you have to do is take a look at the house displayed in this video if you need any proof), it was simply to confirm that foam can be sealed with PVA glue to survive being sprayed with rattle can primer and/or paint. Really I think the only "benefit" (for lack of a better word) of this method of sealing foam is if you're working on a lot of pieces at once; they can all be coated in an assembly line and then sprayed with primer, which might save some time and effort versus the brushed on base coat.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

The correct technique, or order/combination of techniques greatly depends on the piece in question. I generally use a mix of all methods in varying orders depending on the piece and how it is constructed. I will say though that I never use pva itself, when I do that TYPE of coating I always use mod podge, often with black paint mixed in. I find that mod podge used full strength, just with water on the brush, applies much nicer than straight pva and doesn't mask as much fine detail. Im fairly certain that mod podge is just pva in some form, but there is something about it that gives it a slightly different property that I like.

[@TheEpicSpire]

It's actually the solvent that keeps the pigment liquid inside the can that is eating the foam, not the propellant as most people have suggested. usually acetone type solvents.

[@samarayaart]

You can also use acrylic matte medium to seal styrofoam. Great channel and awesome tips!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Thank you

[@TheBlackFrog79]

Can I use Vallejo matt varnish?

[@woutvo2726]

I’m missing something. When I make a piece out of styrofoam, I put modelcompound over it, the pva it, prime it and paint it. You can’t paint foam right away right?

[@fiilthy]

what a beauty video!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Thank you :)

[@StaddyICE]

You can look at the MSDS to see the difference in propellant used. Then steer clear of the one that melts it.

[@anthonyirlandesa1130]

Great vid, cheers bro

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

cheers

[@RobHawkinsHobby]

Great tip! I had a similar experience with Testors Model Master sprays. For some reason they didn't melt foam where other sprays would, which allowed me to quickly undercoat foam scenery. Try it out. I haven't used the sprays on foam in a while so hopefully the formula is the same. Always, always, always test spray (even a new can of the same stuff you normally use, just in case there's a formula change or variation between batches) on a piece of scrap foam before using it on your project.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Yup I am paranoid so I usually test new cans of the same stuff too, but forgot to mention that.

[@keithjohnson3357]

Nah, you tell us to test it on some blank Styrofoam, at around 5:30+

[@Runehammer1]

yer stuff is so killer! and growing in subs like mad!!! yeaah!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

getting there! not bad for 1 year of crafting :D

[@Runehammer1]

your quality is dwarven

[@piselin]

Cool Video, nice tips. Henkarin, when can we get a new video? I'd love to see more of your journal. It's so inspiring to see. But make sure the pages are actually in focus so we can read the true gospel. See you soon buddy.

[@Runehammer1]

lol editing latest now...

[@Assorted12]

Glad to hear. I eat up these crafting vids like a fat kid eats cake but I need help on the DM side too! I pretty much need help all around.

[@johnsuski5074]

Jackpot. I am gonna do this to the house build I am doing right now when finished. Beats brushing on wood glue, which hardens it pretty well, but can hide the finner details.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

That's my biggest gripe with brushing on any type of glue coating before paint, you loose so much fine detail, which is the whole reason for building from foam in the first place.

[@MonkeyJedi99]

Plus the wood glue technically remains water soluble even after drying. So a soda spill still threatens things, and humidity can stick them together.

[@jimfalaris5709]

Great tip!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Thanks, hope it helps you out.

[@joelakas]

Thanks for all the great videos I’m learning a lot. Their must be a difference between Krylon clear coat and Krylon matte because I purchased the Krylon clear coat and tested it on a raw piece of XPS foam before spraying it on my sculpture like you say to and I’m sure glad I did . Melted like acid . Again this was a raw piece of unpainted foam. Do you know is their a difference? Don’t want to use the Krylon matte if it’s going to do the same thing. One can is 1311 the other is numbers 1303. Your web page was recommending Krylon clear coat matte. Thanks.

[@seth7407]

Krylon has ketones in it like acetone and MEK, which is used in plastic model glues that aren't cyano acrelate based like super glue

[@TheVexinator]

Airbrushes are a great way to paint terrain without worrying about melting the foam. As others have mentioned, it's the propellant in canned spray paint that eats the foam.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

I just don't think most people have airbrushes. It's high on my list of things to get though.

[@TheVexinator]

They are a great investment for anyone in the creative side of this hobby, whether painting minis or terrain - especially for anyone who needs to deal with crappy outdoor weather for long periods of the year, such as us Canucks. You can do your entire hobby indoors once you have one... that's why I originally purchased mine.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

yea Winnipeg winters is the exact reason I've been thinking of getting one.

[@HerewardtheWake23]

Does anyone know an equivelent to Minwax that can be found in the UK? The cost of shipping it from America is ridiculous!

[@Kyddoemiko13]

Thank you for making this video I am making a table water fountain. I glued it with the wax sticks while the sandwich looks good I made my holes for the water to flow. Tested it and there is a gap opening in the back of the fountain sandwich which flows to the front. How do I seal that gap should I use aquarium glue silicone base to make it waterproof so that I don't have a leak in the back?

[@CreativeFilms2003]

Thank you for the video! Unfortunately, the Minwax Polyurethane melted the heck out of the EPS I tested it on. I've been looking dozens of videos. It seems that nothing can be used to seal EPS. I'm trying to build a swimming kicking board so I need to coat the EPS with some kind of water proof material. I've been told that I should buy EPS of a density of 1.5 or higher that's already impermeable. If anyone has a better idea it will be greatly appreciated. Once again I really appreciate the time you spent on this video. Hopefully, it worked better for other folks.

[@pianopaulus6774]

Awesome video. Can you tell me what carving tools/carving saw(s) you use? Where can I buy them? Coping saw works, but need a smaller, straighter saw for detailed areas. Thanks. Greatly appreciate your suggestions.

[@allenflud]

Good tip

[@TheDIVideos]

You just saved my project

[@mitch5077]

I would like to make fake rocks for an indoor table top Waterfall Feature. Have you done slabs of faux rocks or simular?

[@Juan-kk6kc]

what about using vallejo washes on styrofoam ? I know you can't use enamel washes but really just started with the material..

[@nobuckle40]

Very helpful. Q: Is there any adverse effect on flocking?

[@jamesback8024]

THANK YOU

[@jchang1985]

I used some Minwax poly and I find it's made the work a bit glossy. A little glossier than I would like. Now that it all has a coat of poly, would it be safe to give it a quick sprtiz with Testor's Dullcote to bring that shine back down, or will it melt the foam anyway?

[@ninjamentz]

Can one use resin coat varnish like in minis, instead of spray for a finisher on foam constructions? What will be the effect? Is it not recommended? Is it more costly?

[@superwargamer3229]

very cool you got my sub xD

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

welcome :)

[@scrambledcitycustomz8134]

I prime with my airbrush, I've never had issues with it.

[@benjaminedenfield3368]

Great videos! Could you provide a link to which foam you prefer to use on the flooring tiles? Do you have issues with how light the tiles are being moved due to player or pet movement? Do you add washers or anything to help weight them down?

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Question 1: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZpDZh2mOaM57qZY Question 2: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qYa0aoN9nZifbLs

[@Faisca2]

Excellent suggestion! Now, I have a question about the logistics of spraying. You said you live in Canada, so I assume it gets rather cold. I'm in Massachusetts, where it's probably not as bad as you get, but it's friggin freezing. How do you go about spraying your pieces? Have you tried spraying outside while temps are below freezing? Do you have an exhaust hood set up in the basement? Inquiring minds need to know! It seems rather impractical to be unable to seal projects for 6 months out of the year.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

As long as its not extreemly cold (-30s or lower which happens here often) I just jump outside, quickly spray, then come back in. As long as you are doing small batches the items and can will be warm enough to pull it off if you bring it in right away. When it's really cold and I cant do that I just spray in the basement with a window open, not idea, don't recommend it, but it's what I do......Building a spray booth with a vent fan to outdoors is on the list of things to do.

[@Faisca2]

Thanks for the confidence booster! I'll have to work up a few practice pieces and give it a test.

[@jura_works]

Hey man! awesome work. I have this question, what is exactly modge podge? is it like white glue for childrens crafting or is it something more complex than that. thnx man keep the awesome work!!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Just google mod podge man.....it's a craft product used for many many things, mostly decoupage. It's sort of like white glue, but it behaves a little differently, and in a way that I find works better for coating pieces without killing detail.

[@thepardoner2059]

The fine print on the Minwax can says it should not be used on painted surfaces. Have you had any problems with your terrain pieces yellowing over time after using this product?

[@DarkDioStudio]

I have always been curious about minwax spray, so thank you for that 😊 but I am also curious as to what you think about MOD Podge spray? which is what I use

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Ive found mod podge spray to be absolutely useless for me. It is very reactive to foam, and even on projects that can safely be sprayed with it there seems to be little to no benefit. I tried using it on a few paper projects and on my tree foliage, and after several coats it seemed like it barely did anything. One coat of the miniwax spray seems to equal several of the mod podge spray. The only real upside was that it was very matte. When you use the satin miniwax you get a bit more gloss than some people might like, but I use it on everything and feel it's part of my stuff's look now. I do however like the brush on mod podge you buy in the tub, it seems to be better than watered down pva.

[@DarkDioStudio]

+Black Magic Craft thank you for the input. I'll definitely give it a try

[@sprocketsmagazine9801]

What can you use to coat foam to make it rock hard?

[@charliesilva3475]

I have a foam design and I need to know how to convert that foam into mold. I was thinking using silicone rubber for molding but what I am afraid is that it could melt. I heard you can use sealer on the foam but not sure which one is the best for a foam that is already painted. Can you providee with ideas?

[@SgtSloth-ml6mk]

Heeeeey BMC! I've just started with Tabletop RPG and Terrain Building and I am really loving it and your Channel! I just finished my first set of dungeon and cavern tiles and I am so excited to go for some detailed scatter terrain in a few days. But I have not quite understood this entire "sealing" topic. I understand, that you want to protect your more delicate projects like the buildings and in general every build which includes weaker links. But is it important to seal all those one-component builds like the dungeon tiles? Your tiles seem very robust to me. So why sealing it? Is it because of the paint or is there any long term change I dont know about yet? :) Your's Sgt.Sloth

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

It’s just added protection for the paint.

[@JosephKeenanisme]

thanks man... looking to do some prop guns for a convention and was wanting to make them more durable. question: are the brush on types any good for a slush or dip type final step?

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

For cosplay weapon stuff I'm not sure a varnish is the best option, I think you want to do the silicon rubber coating. I don't build anything big like that so I'm not sure, if you havn't already you should check out the channel Punished Props, he makes awesome videos and covers every aspect of what you are working on.

[@JosephKeenanisme]

+Black Magic Craft Hehe, i have a few of his videos bookmarked. Also fortune enough to know some folks who do props for a haunted house. Strange thing is what they know for full size scale and I know for mini stuff seem to compliment each other more often than not. Taking pics of the WIPS for the gaming console. Just started on the mascot type heads as well as picking up two decent toy guns I am going to mod.

[@c0pyimitati0n]

Decent! Do you think it would matter if you used a gloss or semi-gloss? My wife has a 2'x2' square piece of 2" foam insulation and she sculpted a painting into it. I'm trying to figure out a way to seal and protect it and came across your video. Thanks.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

I often use gloss on stuff that I want to look really wet. As long as it's the minwax fast dry stuff it will also work if gloss.

[@sandytorcasio837]

Does this protect the pieces if they are outside in the weather?

[@rooter6]

can I spray polureathane varnish from airbrush and be calm about melting?

[@thai1217]

there is no minwax in my area, so I'm looking for a substitute for my diorama I am building. I already painted my foam with mod podge; after that, I painted it with acrylic. I want to use Krylon as my sealing finish, but I heard it contains acetone, which melts foam. What should I do?

[@Bassefar]

I can't seem to find any spray that would work here in Norway, and Amazon can't deliver said spray to my location for some reason. What are my options, does watered down PvA or school glue work to seal and harden the paint/xpsfoam?

[@williamgraham5238]

Yeah but you have to be sure to get solid even coats

[@martinthewarrior5016]

can u do a vid on how to make buildings like the ones on ur shelf? they look really cool and i'd love to make some for my wargames. :-)

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

I have videos talking about buildings construction in detail. Watch the Sinister Chapel and City Gate episodes.

[@kimberlychoanwood-saldana2646]

Can you tell me if this will seal the Balance Body Lite box ($99 box)? People have said the little balls start falling off. Thx!

[@aunderiskerensky2304]

What about airbrushed primer how do you feel about that

[@ericjfarrar]

Took me a while to read through all the comments to make sure nobody has asked yet. ... have you tried the brush-on variant of the polyurethane? if so, how did the results compare to the spray? I've built so much terrain since watching your videos that I've gone through two cans of spray and need to go buy some more; the brush-on might be a better value for everything I still need to seal. ...

[@GalaxyStranger01]

I have the brush on version. It's nearly identical. You just have to mix up the stuff that's settled to the bottom. You can also spray it through an airbrush. Generally, I find that this kind of work lends itself to brushing on "goopier" substances such as paints and finishes because this helps give the structure a texture. Airbrushing or rattle-canning would most efficiently apply the paint - but wouldn't cover anything you'd want to hide. Everything would be crisp. Though, I think MinWax would be fine for spraying, you'd just get thinner layers and may wish to apply more layers to get the desired effect. On wood, it's not uncommon to apply 3 or more layers. I would think that with airbrushing, you'd want to apply at least that may layers on these kinds of pieces.

[@seigeengine]

I'd say in the case of a clear protective coat, your desire isn't to hide anything. Applying it by brush is fine, but is broadly much more time consuming, finicky, and clumsy.

[@chrissvoice1770]

those houses behind you pleeeaaaseee do a vid on those!!

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

I will eventually....however in the meantime, every technique I use to build them is covered in other videos, specifically the chapel video and the city gate video.

[@cyagen9782]

Very neat trick! Thanks! Is that a Trois-Pistoles bottle that I see up there? My favorite beer from Unibroue! I do not know is you can find some in Manitoba, but the Coup de Grisou (can't remember the brewerie) is also a very nice one. Don't drink and paint....;)

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

It is! Although I'll be honest, I'm not a fan of Unibroue, all their beer is far too hoppy for me.

[@cyagen9782]

OK, I'm a IPA fan, so disregard my recommendations ;)

[@chrisgath2619]

Is that reptile friendly if not what can I use instead

[@lalalala8678]

acetone and acetates is what makes the foam melt, if those chemicals aren't in the paint , in theory you shouldn't have the melting issue

[@jasonnielson9207]

I love your houses, is there any references online on how to make them? I watched how you painted and made shingles. will you be making any videos on how you made them? Can you take off the tops and use the inside ìn a game with figures?

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Mine don't come off at the tops leaving the walls, I don't like that method as I think the walls obscure play. So I have my roofs attached to the walls and it all comes off together leaving the floor. Two story buildings come apart at two points. I don't have a tutorial on the buildings yet as they are involved projects, one usually takes 20-30 hours to build. I'm slowly going to work through the basic techniques on the channel with simpler projects.

[@jasonnielson9207]

thank for you for the info. I can remember you saying that now in one of the videos. While I am waiting for the houses in suspense, I will practice making some tiles. Again awesome houses and videos. thanks again.

[@sheepyhair]

Not sure if this video is too old now to have comments noticed, but I'm having a real issue with foam pieces that I build that stick together and result in paint chipping/being torn off if I leave them next to each other. This is a real problem with the stuff I've magnetized. Blocks can be totally dry to the touch but leave them together for a while and suddenly they start to stick. I've tried sealing with watered down PVA/modge podge/various varnishes. Nothing seems to stop the problem, yet I can't find anyone else with this problem online. Is this a problem for anyone else and if so, is there a solution I'm not seeing?

[@gamercraftsstudio7052]

so I tried this today on raw foam core and polystyrene and it melted slightly....But it seemed to work fine on my painted and slightly watery modge podge coated tiles...

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Glad you tested. Also try spraying from further away.

[@reapersofeden1]

The melting could be due to Acetone being in the spray somewhere just a theory.

[@easyazpie9091]

latex house paint could seal styrofoam?

[@TheTabletopSpot]

Most spray paints have acetone mixed in. Liquitex aerosol paints don't have acetone so they will spray on foam. I suspect minwax is the same.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Ive been meaning to get some liquitex spray paint for the times I do want to just spray.

[@seth7407]

Polystyrene melts under acetone and methyl ethyl ketone, so sprays with ketones will melt PS, Krylon is one type of paint. I don't know about paints with paint thinners in them

[@NS-cs3wp]

+1 to his advice to avoid spraypainting foam. If you're careful, and prime it with modpodge first, it CAN be okay, but it's very easy to over-spray and have your piece melt. Happened to me on two pieces but fortunately they were supposed to be slime terrain and all melted by acid so the small amount of melting that happened actually contribute to the overall effect. Be warned! Don't use foam and spray paint.

[@drophammer776]

If an Artist that sculpts beautiful work tells you what to use and don't use...You do it

[@ChaotikWulf]

Do you know if using something like vallejo varnishes through an airbrush would get the same result?

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

That would be better actually.

[@SleepyHollowRestoredMikeJohns]

I think it is the chemical polypropylene that eats foam! I am however a novice in this crafting chemistry. You are correct each manufacturer is very different.

[@BlackMagicCraftOfficial]

Yea I'm not sure if it is the propellant or solvent in the Miniwax that is different, but I suspect it is the solvent. Even the smell of the Miniwax is a lot more organic and less abrasive.

[@SleepyHollowRestoredMikeJohns]

I use min wax all the time to dip my minis and yes it smells much less abrasive to my lungs! I think its the propylene in the spray paint!

[@GalaxyStranger01]

The minwax is oil based. The Varathane is likely solvent based. Just about all solvents eat polystyrene and this is a particularly fragile variant.

[@GalaxyStranger01]

This version of MinWax is oil based, that's why it doesn't eat the styrofoam. Styrofoam is eaten by Solvent based paints and finishes - solvent based enamels, lacquers and urethanes. Oil paints or water based acrylics won't eat styrofoam. Verathane is likely solvent based. I find that MISTING either a solvent based paint, or even lacquer thinner does great at adding random texturing - not a full-on spray coverage.