How To SEAM GRANITE in 2 1/2min

A tutorial on how to professionally seam granite, or other solid surface, countertops. 19 years of stone countertop experience. Remember, this is just one technique. Others may have different approaches. But I have achieved the best results with this system. Hope you enjoy and (or) learn a few tips for the future. Thanks for watching.
Akemi Glue: amzn.to/2vEPhip
Recorded with a GoPro Hero 4: amzn.to/2vEtt6C
I use Akemi brand epoxy and the Omni Cubed Automatic Seamer.
Editing and filming by @JayZagar on youtube. JayZagarPhotography.com
Backing track is "Hindsight" Which can be found on JinglePunks.com

[@mau5fan4lyfe]

Wow. That is the cleanest granite seam I've ever seen!!

[@michael-kunk-flynn9955]

Amazing!

[@fabricatorsfriend741]

Nice work! Looks great.

[@GraniteByJay]

Thank you very much.

[@capeman10]

Thank you so must for this posting. I want to complete a seam in my outdoor kitchen.

[@GraniteByJay]

Thanks man. Glad you like and good luck with your project. Im sure it will go well.

[@spiffdandy77]

Just a few questions. Where to buy the coloring? Is fiberglass epoxy ok to use?

[@GraniteByJay]

For the coloring try GMR stone products or Braxton-Bragg online. They have coloring kits for sale. If you don't need a full kit, you might get lucky just going to a local stone fabrication shop and ask for a couple dabs of the color you need. It doesn't take allot to tint one seam. And fiberglass epoxy would work too, but the only issue with that is the viscosity. The seam glue I use is knife grade. Its thick like peanut butter. The fiberglass epoxy will run straight through and make a mess. Hope this helps.

[@franciscomaldonado6860]

Awesomeness!!! I’m curious…. Do you pull seams together with seam setter even though granite countertops are glued to cabinets? I would think the countertops wouldn’t move ? I have no experience. Just curious. Your work is awesome!!!

[@benavidezrigoberto2672]

Before you glue tops to cabs,

[@herocaller5962]

what did you use to level the marbles underneath?nothing?

[@GraniteByJay]

Hello, around 85% of the time I use tapered wood shims. The other 15% I'll use the plastic horseshoe shims. Benefits of wood tapered shims - they snap easy and you can fine tune the seam with them. Benefits for plastic horseshoe shims - they are solid and great for outdoors where rain or weather might effect the wood shims. Hope this helps.

[@xarptwin]

Hello Jay!!, I bought a older home recently. The Granite counter top on an island with a cutout for Sink is made of two pieces. The joint/seam is at the center of width of the sink. Smaller side of the seam (between sink and the edge towards me) is sealed well and perfect. The longer side of the seam (between the sink and away from me) is not perfect. One side of the granite is slightly lower than the other side and the seam has a visible gap. How should I go about fixing this? Would it require adding shims under the granite to lift it up? Also, If I plan to only seal the seam, Does the product you mention work to fill the gap in the seam? Thanks in Advance.

[@GraniteByJay]

Hi PR. I think a have a good idea of what you're saying. There is a seam at the centerline of the sink. The front bar seam still looks good and the seam out the back of the sink has moved. And I'm guessing your island is bigger than 10 feet. The reason why you have a seam at the sink. This is why I'm not a big fan of sink seams. But, before shimming the back to level out the seam, I would look at the front bar of the sink again. If the back moved and the front did not, you might have a fissure or crack at one of corners of the sink thru the front bar. If this is the case, I would be very careful hammering in any shims anywhere because it might ruin or worsen the front piece. Couple options for you. And hope this helps. Please let me know. I like hearing feedback. 1. Don't shim. You can re-fill the seam with stone epoxy at the position the island has settled. Easiest fix. 2. Shim the island back to level, then fill seam with stone epoxy. A little dangerous but the seam will come out better. 3. Call a local granite shop that uses a "seam Setter" Might run you anywhere from $100 to $250. Less worries on you. 4. Most expensive option. Re-design your island so that you will have the biggest piece possible with no seams. Order a new piece of stone. The biggest island I have installed to date was 74"x132". It was a special order piece. Usually slabs are around 120". One thing not to do, Don't fill the gap with silicone. I hate when I go for a repair and someone tried fixing the seam with silicone. The stone epoxy will never bond right to an edge that has been soaked with silicone. Hope this helps. This is my longest comment yet. My fingers are on fire.

[@xarptwin]

@@GraniteByJay Hi Jay, Thank you so much. I appreciate you taking your time to give a detailed response. It means a lot to a first time home owner like me. I have 12 different items to fix in this house. I will go with the stone epoxy fix as you mentioned. Once I have a feel for the house and a few months later, I will go with the seam setter option. Your response saved me from using silicone!! :-) Thanks again!!

[@christianescareno1814]

This is honestly the greatest response I have seen a poster provide to a commenter on KZbin. Props for your dedication to the craft - you a true OG motherfuckin’ playa

[@kevinlange5930]

Do a skim coat after. Tape it before. Wipe it clean.

[@patrickoneill6297]

Doesn’t the hardener lighten up the epoxy? Does it make sense to start a little darker?

[@GraniteByJay]

It depends really on the type and brand of epoxy you're using. But almost all the glues I have used will turn a little darker as it hardens. A little darker and also a little bit of a yellow. That's why seams in pure white quartz are so tough. The other reason I always go a hair lighter with the color is because you can always stain it darker later. If the seam comes out too dark, most of the times you have to dig it out and try again. Hope this makes sense. Thanks for the comment.

[@patrickoneill6297]

@@GraniteByJay thanks Jay!

[@frankgenner782]

Lol I'm going to make this video because I know by the time you go out and buy all the tools you will need to do this job it would be more than just hiring me ! 😆🤣

[@beachhouse131]

In a "L" kitchen with a 45 degree 1/4 inch beveled edge where would you place the seam? It would have to go right in the corner wouldn't it? Then either miter it or butt joint?

[@GraniteByJay]

Thats a tough call. I give you my train of thought. 1. If your working with pre-fabricated straight runs, put the seam in the corner. Cut off the 1/4" bevel off where the seam is going to be with a 1/4" 45degree key notch where it buts the other piece. On the other piece, just cut a 1/4" 45 degree key notch. Sorry, I know that sounds confusing. 2. If you're working with full slab, I still like corner seams. I know in this video I didn't do this. That's because I maxed out the slab with the sink run that was to the left of the seam. But lets say this was a corner seam. I usually stop the bevels on both pieces short by about 1/2". Then after the seam is done on-site, Just feather in the bevels with diamond pads. This way it always looks like it was a perfect fit and keeps you from going to far with one or the other bevels. Hope this helps and feel free to write back if I totally missed with my explanation. Thanks Dan

[@beachhouse131]

Okay I think I follow you. I am going to do my seam at a location with no support other than front and back but not over the length of the seam where cabinet boxes come together. Do you think a seam like this with limited support is a big problem? Would you just score "x" marks into both sides for epoxy to fill? Ideas?

[@GraniteByJay]

@@beachhouse131 I agree with you about the front and back only support. It is best to place the seam where the boxes come together. But realistically, it just doesn't work out that way most of the time. I think it's more important to stay away from undermount cutouts and dishwasher openings. After that you want to make a big enough piece so you're not wasting a ton of material. Scuffing up the seams really good before glueing always helps. And I almost always use Platinum Akemi. This stuff is amazingly strong. My go-to for all seams. Make your best decision keeping in mind support, material waste, and customer approval. I wish I can give you a more direct answer, but every job is a little different. I'm at 20 years now and still run into new issues and problems to work thru. But will say, I install 5-6 kitchens a week and only have 1-2 seam repairs per year. Would like that number to be 0, but still improving my techniques.

[@beachhouse131]

No I think I got the jist of your explanation. Great points!

[@basiliohernandez6323]

Ok

[@Jellyballs]

My seam on my granite countertop deteriorated in the past decade and water seeps into the drawer below it. Do they sell any smaller kits for this type of repair? It's a cream/white color counter. So all I really need is the epoxy and color mix?

[@GraniteByJay]

Not sure where you are located, but best option is to find your local granite fabricator. Bring a picture of your granite. And just ask for a small amount mixed up for that color. Hardener on the side. We hook people up all the time, and it better than spending over $100 for all the pieces parts you need. Just don't use silicone or chalking to fill the seam. Only reason is because if you ever want it done with epoxy down the road, Its almost impossible to clean it out good enough to get the epoxy to adhere. Hope this help. Thanks for reaching out.

[@example2061]

I'd like to glue a porcelain stoneware like that. One thing I can't understand is that Akemi Glue is transparent. How did You change a color of it? Was a paint in the package?

[@GraniteByJay]

The Akemi company also sells coloring pastes for changing the colors of there glues. You can sometimes find them sold as single colors, are just buy the kit that comes with 8 colors I believe. You can also check out www.gmrqualitystoneproducts.com and search for white coloring paste. It doesn't have to be Akemi brand. Another option is to search for white akemi. These glues usually come in transparent, buff or white. Hope This helps and thanks for reaching out.

[@cristiansabau3443]

2 1/2 minutes ? What’s the rush ?

[@seamuswarren]

Can I patch a gaping hole from an oversized cutout to make it smaller to accommodate a smaller sink?

[@GraniteByJay]

That's a tough one man. Technically you can, but I really don't think you would like the results. And it would take allot of work to get it glued evenly and re-polished. I would suggest getting the same sink or one that is bigger. Save yourself all the trouble.

[@davidroberson1962]

Yes, but with the sink being the center point/most used item of use in most kitchens, it would be pretty obvious. You could perhaps use a contrasting color or a piece of stainless steel.

[@beachhouse131]

Hello Jay, I like to leave a 1/8" gap between my countertops and the wall. Some guys fill this void with silicone and some don't. What is your take on this?

[@GraniteByJay]

What up Dan. When I measure for tops, I try and get them as exact as possible. My reason for this - I use AutoCad for my drawings then it goes to a CNC saw and then to another CNC for cutouts and edge. These machines are really good and precise, but they do have a +- 1/16" tolerance. I would rather give these machines the best drawing I can. So when it comes to install, I have the play + or -. Let's say you have an 1/8" gap with thin glass tile going up, I would fill it. Normal 3/8" tile or 3cm granite backsplash, I wouldn't worry about the fill. You would seal that bottom edge after tile or backsplash is installed. Thanks man and hope this helps.

[@mikeflint5809]

I always put white to clear caulk behind it to act as an extra water barrier. How are those omni seam setters? We have the guerrilla 2 and I have to say the seams turn out fanastic

[@xiong7144]

how to polish the seam？

[@GraniteByJay]

Ive thought about doing a video on re-surfacing a seam. Only thing is, every material is a little bit different. It would be hard to make a "One video fits all". But I'll give it a try. Thanks for watching.

[@suspensefulness]

what epoxy is this ...so i can buy

[@GraniteByJay]

Akemi brand stone epoxy. I have a link in the description for this video. I also use Platinum epoxy too. It's great for engineered quartz.

[@suspensefulness]

@@GraniteByJay thank u

[@brauliocordeo5898]

I have never seen anyone seam up a kitchen like this We’ve had installers come from other states and countries I guess Cali is just different Like what you’re doing here tho There’s not much out there on our trade

[@panzaverde91livestream95]

I can see the seam not good the color was good but had to be more close together

[@carloseduardometzger6346]

Do you have interest in exchange techniques, I'm from Brazil and like to teach and learn new materials, because here we work different, what you say?

[@GraniteByJay]

Not sure what you mean. You looking for a collaboration or along those lines?

[@carloseduardometzger6346]

I've been looking up for some real professional education and degrees about the subject but couldn't find anything in Brazil or in other country by now... So Id like to propose we exchange some technical information because Im a worklover with a 10 years experience already, even though we always need to enhance our skills

[@beachhouse131]

Hi Jay, I ran into a problem where I set a seam on a kitchen L kitchen and I had to seam a 14 inch piece at the end of a long length of counter. Overnight as the seam cured it lifted up the side of the 14 inch piece by about an eigths of an inch if you can believe it. So the unsupported seam did not sag but rather it lifted this 14 inch tail piece up. Have you ever experienced this? I am thinking of attaching the side tail piece to the box with sink clip type bolts and L brackets after breaking and re setting seam. Any thoughts on this? Any idea how long until epoxy reaches maximum strength as I have to bust this seam open again. I think the faces of the seam were fairly square and the seam was fine when I left the house so it appears the epoxy curing is lifting it??

[@GraniteByJay]

Hi Dan, The epoxy I use sets in about 15 min. That's full cure. I wouldn't really worry about 1/8" gap between stone and cab. Just tape off the cab and shoot all gaps with 100% silicone. You have a better chance of more problems if you try to break that seam apart. I have ran into this before, but I was using this seam setter to try and flex a belly out of the stone to get a perfectly flat seam front to back. That tension I put on the material raised the opposite end of the piece. Another option is shim the base cab from the bottom. Between the floor and cab. I've done it this way as well.

[@beachhouse131]

@@GraniteByJay Thanks Jay, I appreciate the advice!!

[@georgeghazaleh6887]

Dan Abbott I always prepare the seam color epoxy with minimum Hardener. Also, it is ideal to have a wood support right under the seam. In some cases ( old cabinets) the middle of the granite piece may be “ curved” due to weight and length of the piece ( mainly due to old cabinet). So, level the seam, use a razor blade to make sure the seam is very, very flush. Also, right after you seam it, use bondo tabs to attach the counter top to the cabinet. If, for some reason you end up with a tiny gap “1/8” of an inch, then at that point, the countertop is glued with bondo so it will not move even if there is a gap. Use 100% silicone and you are golden. Small tip for the epoxy Hardener: The hardener, if you use a good amount of it, will in fact darken your color after it cures. So you may want to account for that when mixing colors.

[@miguel69061]

Not enough epoxy very little

[@keavinclark4859]

You just need this expensive tool

[@rylanschaffer2662]

Weak sauce! Lol that's how it's done at Shitty garage shops. You got some basic information right but best leave this business to the professionals.

[@stevenrwh]

How double dog dare you Rylan? How actually double dirty dog dare you sir!?! That seam looks amazing. You, you sir, you probably have never even worked with granite. You sir, probably have Formica countertops.