How to set blade tracking on the 4X6 Band Saw. Keep that blade from falling off! Harbor Freight

Band saw blade Keep falling off? Not cutting straight? Breaking blades? Lets set it up like it should be and fix al those issues. Easy straightforward instructional video on setting up the tracking and tension on this harbor freight and other Asian made band saws of the same design.

[@satchelsieniewicz738]

the fact you threw your band saw out of whack to make these videos is much appreciated.

[@donsengine3158]

Got to show how its done... Thanks. Don

[@axelec]

I have been looking for this video for a long time. It is the best I have seen on adjusting blade tracking and adjustment I had almost given up..Thank You So Much

[@donsengine3158]

Jeez, thanks for the kudos axelec. I'm glad it helps. Don

[@brentbarnhart5827]

I'm an engineer, and a new machinist. (Full machine shop.) But I am "Johnny come Lately" to machining. Thanks for the video, I used to know how to do this, and forgot. LOL! (I forgot about the Allen Screw) Good clear video.

[@donsengine3158]

Thanks Brent... Don

[@nightmare0331]

just wanted to say watching your video made slapping a new blade on my HF bandsaw and adjusting everything a breeze. I've had the thing for years and it always cut strange...never really delved into why and how to adjust it. Now I know. Thank you so much! :)

[@randallsemrau6911]

Thanks Don for making me aware that the bearing guide supports swivel, and make blade alignment possible. I've had my saw 30 years, and always assumed the horizontal bolt on each support arm held the arm in a predetermined, fixed position!

[@randallsemrau6911]

Thanks for the advice on blade tensioning. I think I discovered why I was cracking and breaking blades.

[@campacolasworkshop6042]

Glad I watched your vid, as my new saw came with the blade dislodged behind one set of the guide bearings in the box. Had I switched it on straight out of the box I suspect the blade would have taken out the bearing and/or itself. Taking my time & inspecting the pulley box & going through your recommended adjustments before switch on, saved the day!!

[@donsengine3158]

I'm glad you saw it too... You really have to watch QA when its coming from someplace else... Hope its running good now. Don

[@nathanwright8598]

I was ready to throw out my band saw because I thought it was permanently busted from the factory. Thank you so much.

[@donsengine3158]

Hope you didnt. most stuff is fixable, even the cheaper stuff.. Don

[@snail5341]

Same here

[@scarter176]

Don, put new blade on without roller guides and can’t keep the blade on. What’s up with this ?

[@scarter176]

Can you not run without roller guides ?

[@peteheyde7999]

I had a lot of wobble in my upper wheel. To fix this, I wrapped heavy duty aluminum foil and contact cement around the tensioner slide bars. Between every 2 layers of foil, I brushed a little DAP contact cement, taking care not to have any cement get on the outside surface of the foil and then pushed the bar into the axle adjusting slide groove. I repeated this process until I had almost no wobble on either side individually, and NO wobble when both slider bars were wrapped and form fitted to 2.5mm I found that 2.5 mm is the sweet thickness on the sliders. The aluminum foil is only a MacGyver temporary quick fix. I did it to get through a project, and it's holding up surprisingly well. After I finish this current project, I'm going to have my cousin mill me up a couple of new sliders to 2.5mm uniform thickness. The biggest problems I find is that with these cheap saws, is the loose the tolerances make precision cutting iffy at best. KZbin has a lot of great instructional videos on how to "tighten up" the slop and and make it a very serviceable and respectable machine. BTW, you're absolutely correct about not skimping on the blades. The OEM blade is junk. I put a Harbor Freight "top of the line" all purpose blade, and It made a big difference. I also bought a Starrett 99192-05-04-1/2 Intenss Bimetal Band Saw Blade, Powerband M42, 1/2-inch Width, 0.025-inch Thickness, 5 ft.-4-1/2-inch Welded Band Length, Pitch (TPI): 14. I haven't put it on the saw yet, and probably won't until I get my slide bars machined, but Starrett has been a major quality manufacturer for a very long time and I expect their highly rated blade to be among the best. Whatever other tolerances I can tighten up, I'll let you know.

[@donsengine3158]

A fix is a fix. Good ideas. Ya, I can't deal with crap blades. They waste too much of my time

[@ricardito69]

Well done video. This cheapo bandsaw works good for what I use it. Thanks for the well explained adjustments

[@donsengine3158]

Thank you for following. Don

[@billcharlene1450]

Thinking of picking one of these up, this video will have come in handy...thanks!

[@donsengine3158]

Glad it helps... Don

[@upnorthyooper1196]

I have a harbor freight junk but mine doesn't have all these adjustments. I find the number one reason for throughting blades is taking too big of a bit, especially with a new blade. On the side there is a rod with a spring hooked to it. This sets how much down force tension is on the blade. Depending on what you are cutting and how aggressive your blade is, you may have to tighten up on that spring by turning that bar so there is less downforce pressure on the blade, so it doesn't bite so hard during the cut.

[@donsengine3158]

Yes that spring adjuster is a weak point on the machine. A lot of guys have been converting it to hydraulic. Been thinking hat way myself. Don

[@randallsemrau6911]

Saw blade guide bearings are on *eccentric* bolts. A cam is part of a rotating assembly which produces motion.

[@AnthonyHerrera-m1o]

Great video you awsered it all like a professional thank you

[@geckoproductions4128]

Don: Thanks for the great video. I just got a brand new HF saw like your's (they've gone up a little) and it seems that the blade DOES NOT track across the cutting area. That is, when the blade is aligned with the drive wheels, it must be twisted some with the guide bearing to cut square. That is, with NO guide bearings, the blade tracks on the wheels to give a 15--20 deg oblique when the cutting area is..Is that the way it is supposed to be? Are the guide bearings designed to put that much twist in the blade to get it to cut straight? Thanks

[@donsengine3158]

Yes sir, those guide wheels are used to align the blade with the material and give you a square cut. They do change the angle of the blade coming off the wheel, that's why you need to pay good attention to proper adjustments and tension to keep the blade happy. Try and keep your blade guide arm moved as far into the work area as possible (that's the knob and sliding part that moves the guide back and forth toward the vice) This will reduce the change or twist on the blade to a minimum. I lucked out on my saw. I got it at a flea market from a guy who just couldn't keep the blades from breaking and sold it for dirt and hadn't even gotten the new smell off the paint. It pays to work slow and pay attention to the details. Don

[@marcoam2610]

Thank you sir for that awesome vid!!! Small bandsaw, band jumps off at the motor side wheel…have to try a lot. Not sure with the band tension, not sure where the sweet spot is…at the start of the learning curve, every machine has one…

[@Mohammad-hh9hr]

Hi sir thank you for your video. What is the cause of wear of the blade of the pulley in the event of rotation and how is it treated

[@oldmetalmachines2094]

Hey man thanks for the video. I have one of these and have had a ton of issues with it. I just use my DoAll now. When I get back home I am gonna dig it out and see if this will work for mine. It seems to eat blades.

[@donsengine3158]

Yes, the gentleman I bought it from also said it ate blades, but it was totally out of whack when I got it from him. A little TLC took care of it. Thanks for watchin. Don

[@oldmetalmachines2094]

@@donsengine3158 Do you have an email address I can write to you? Don't want the world to see.

[@donsengine3158]

@@oldmetalmachines2094 Yes sir, on my page go to "about" and click on the Email Icon. Don

[@oldmetalmachines2094]

@@donsengine3158 must only be on pc version. Don't see it on my cell. Will check later

[@donsengine3158]

@@oldmetalmachines2094 Could be. I get a lot of mail on my Gmail coming right off the site.

[@NickMango]

Hey Don, thanks a lot for this video. Really helped me out. Appreciate it 👍.

[@donsengine3158]

Thanks Nick....

[@KenDieckmann]

Don, great video. My blade is walking off the bottom wheel. Is there adjustments for that?

[@donsengine3158]

If the bottom wheel is properly aligned through the housing/bearing then any adjustment you make at the top will align to the bottom. If not, you'll need to look at the bottom wheel. Make sur its tight in its bearing and and shaft. Mine had a very lose wheel to shaft issue compounded by an out of round wheel. I did a not so great video on that. had to true the wheel and figure out how to get it tight on the shaft. Believe it or no, ide have to go back and watch myself as I forgot now. But Ide start there for sure if its walking off, with all other adjustments being correct. Thanks. Don

[@hettie6701]

Hi thanks for this: If you take off the blade, how much up/down play is in the tracking-sliding-assembly, the part thsat slide as you put it like a lathe guided by the two plates. I get the tilting adjustment in the horizontal-wheel-blade plane, but what about the vertical reliant on I assume no play in the guides, mine has a lot of play here I cannot adjust. I do have a mill, and can make modification to correct that, if need be=I am restoring an old Rong FU 115....Thankyou.

[@V8SKULLS]

Very useful information thank you for your knowledge and time on this video, hello from P.S.L. Florida

[@donsengine3158]

Any time - Don

[@v6pulsar]

Thanks Don, a very helpful video.

[@silverram323]

Don, nice video, I made a minor adjustment on the top, guide wheels are true but my blade always comes off the bottom or motor side. HF 4x6. Any tips?

[@donsengine3158]

Did you check to see if you have any looseness, play on run out on that wheel? That's where Ide start. Don

[@silverram323]

@@donsengine3158 no I didn’t. Maybe I’ll disassemble it and put it on my lathe.

[@donsengine3158]

@@silverram323 Be sure to check bearing play and runout where the shaft comes through the frame also. Shaft to pulley fit and concentricity. I think I did a whole other video on that as well.

[@randallsemrau6911]

Don, do you have any idea how I can keep my blade from slipping when I use the wax lubricant stick on it? It leaves a coating on the drive wheel of course, and eventually the blade will not cut, regardless how much I increase tension on the blade.

[@BulliKid]

My saw cuts a bit more on the top of the cut and less on bottom. Any solutions? Adjusted tracking and guides.

[@donsengine3158]

When you say a bit more, do you mean it doesn't track straight through the material?

[@BulliKid]

@@donsengine3158 when I measure square or put the pipe flat on the table. The top side seems to eat a tiny bit more material then the bottom. So it has a rock to it. Overall straight side to side on the cut. Just the top where the blade first starts is more then the bottom of the cut where it ends. Hope that makes sense.

[@donsengine3158]

@@BulliKid Does the saw cut all the way through the material? Also raise the saw up about 1/2 way and looking at it from the handle end, try moving it back and forth L/R. Is there any play in the pin that way? Many of these came with pins that weren't straight or have too much play that can cause odd cutting. If all your other settings are correct, you need to be looking for something mechanical outside the tracking. My own saw has a tendency to creep out of its track setting due to the plastic arm and adjuster being too flimsy to maintain the blade angle. I'll probably have a video out on that in a month or two on my own fix. Don

[@BulliKid]

@@donsengine3158 thanks I’ll look into it. I feel as if the arm may possibly have some play. Not sure how perfect these band saws are suppose to cut. Maybe I’m expecting to much from it.

[@donsengine3158]

@@BulliKid Some came off the line tighter than others for sure. Not much ISO standard oversight there.

[@luisdeandrade2539]

Thank you very much for the help👌👌👌

[@donsengine3158]

Absolutely

[@Airplanefish]

So I see and understand the Allen key adjustment on the top wheel using a pick and have that setup properly. However I do not see how to adjust the lower wheel? My blade is only riding half way on that lower wheel. I took the four bolts off the cover behind that wheel, however that was a mistake. Oil leaked out. Now that's cleaned up I need to know how to make the blade ride on the lower wheel like it does on the top wheel

[@donsengine3158]

By adjusting the tracking on the upper wheel the lower wheel will ride properly. I has no adjustment. I did another video showing how to make sure the lower wheel is properly true, which is in itself an issue at times. Don

[@Airplanefish]

@@donsengine3158 I ended up having to space the bottom wheel out to fix the issue. The top adjustment was made with the Allen screw but it never brought the lower wheel in alignment. Anyways.

[@donsengine3158]

@@Airplanefish I haven't had mine apart in a while, but it seems to me there is supposed to be a spacer behind the lower drive wheel. Yours may not have been put on at the manufacturer. Bad QA.... Sounds like you figured it out though. 👍Don

[@Airplanefish]

@Don's Engine mine does have the spacer but either that's wasn't enough or I wonder if the top wheel is spaced out to far? I can use the Allen adjustment but the blade bottoms out on the inside of the top wheel not allowing the blade to get completely on the bottom wheel

[@Otto-von-Grunf]

Hello, i want to know how much KW is the electromotor and what is its RPM. I have the same bandsaw but dont have the electromotor for it. Thanks!

[@donsengine3158]

750 KW. or 1 HP. 1740 RPM.. hope it helps. Don

[@Otto-von-Grunf]

@@donsengine3158 thank You!!!

[@donsengine3158]

@@Otto-von-Grunf Any time

[@marcoam2610]

I have a small metal bandsaw, 'METALLKRAFT MBS 105' and the band jumps off at the drive wheel side. I have to adjust wheel tracking and blade guidance (at the roller bearings). General noob questions, what to do first: First wheel tracking and then blade guidance - or - first blade guidance and then wheel tracking? Please help. thx!

[@donsengine3158]

Marcoam. Go with tracking first, otherwise you'll be fighting trying to get everything else set.

[@ianrydquist9729]

Great video thanks

[@donsengine3158]

Thanx Don

[@kentuckytrapper780]

Good info Don, thanks.

[@donsengine3158]

Thanks for following me KT. Don

[@thetacticalagenda875]

Hey don. When I went to cut square tubing 1x1 the blade just stopped in the material.

[@donsengine3158]

Sounds like you may have your blade alignment slightly off. It doesn't take much n tubing to make that clear. You may want to double check that your square on both axis of the blade cut. Don.

[@jeffjohnson4200]

Hi my name is Jeff how do you adjust the bottom drive wheel my blade is hanging of by a quarter of a inch by all my cuts perfect inch and a half square stock 3/16 thick I cut a slice 1/8 Inch thick and I mic it it is the same on all 4 sides

[@donsengine3158]

You don't . It has to run true hourgh tight bearings. I think I did another vid on that s well. Don

[@JacobAHull-nx6rx]

Good run down man

[@donsengine3158]

Thanx

[@melgross]

I think you covered most of the problems.

[@donsengine3158]

I try.. thanks Mel.

[@karensmith1181]

What would cause the blade to keep popping off when you go to start cutting?

[@donsengine3158]

Hi Karen, First most common problem is tracking. Get tracking set and make sure you have your blade tension adjustment set to a good tension and that the tensioner plate is locked down. That is the most common issue. A wobbly wheel like I dealt with in the fix n tune would most likely be the other culprit. All adjustment are important, but as far as jumping off at start, look at tracking first. Hope that helps. Don

[@karensmith1181]

Thank you I will relay that info to my husband. He's very frustrated with this issue. Thank you for your response. Wish him luck!! His patience are limited. 🤦‍♀️🤷‍♀️

[@donsengine3158]

@@karensmith1181 Patience isn't a virtue with machine tools. Its a requirement. Have to take it slow and easy. These 4X6 saws can be nice little shop helpers when set up right. A lot of them had QA issues, mine included. A little finessing should straighten it out. Good Luck. Don

[@karensmith1181]

Thank you

[@srdjanbilic104]

How is it possible that the longer pipe cannot fit at 45 degrees, the saw holder is in the way?

[@qtband]

My blade "walks off" the bottom wheel. What causes that?

[@floridaflywheelersantiquee7578]

Thanks for sharing

[@DavidLouisVIP]

Thank you very much

[@ferrellcat5860]

Is anyone having issues with the drive wheel developing a wobble or warp ? I have taken it apart and nothing is loose . The shaft feels fine . Bearings are good . The drive wheel is all the sudden wobbling, like it's bent some how .

[@donsengine3158]

Is the Nut staying tight in place? When I got mine that was sone of the first things I found wrong. Once that was taken care of, then yes, my wheel had to be trued on the lathe.

[@ferrellcat5860]

@donsengine3158 the nut is tight . I never had an issue with the blade moving up and down so I took it apart last week and went thru it all . Only thing I found wrong was the lower blade wheel has a wobble now . Now it wobbles so bad that the blade slid down and made a curved cut . I stopped the saw and now I'm going to try to mend it so I can finish the last 3 cuts .

[@mathewmolk2089]

You cannot over tension the blade on a Harbor Freight 4x6 saw. Check with Leonox, Starrett, or Sandvik if you don't believe me. - Blade tension should be between 15,000 and 25,000 PSI on the cross section of the blade, A little more on BiMetals - Bottom line, you cannot tighten that saw up enough to get into the recommended range let alone over tighten it. I made hub for ours with a 4" tommy bar. - Crank it has hard as you can. We put like 40+ foot pounds on on it. (You cannot get that much on the plastic knob unless you out a pipe wrench on it) - Make sure you break in the blade properly so you don't get stress risers (cracks) and you never break a blade. Except when we try to cut something with a half ass Dixied-up set up and the part gets loose and jams the blade in the cut, we wear out our blades.. In normal service we NEVER break a blade. Plus we get +/- .015" going against a stop all day in steady production. If you are careful you can get it within a couple of thousandths. --- and our HF saw has been in a revenue shop for 40 years. One more time for the cork sniffers. Don't sell these little saws short. They will run with any other saw in this size range.

[@bradwiebelhaus7065]

Good help.

[@mikeanderson1139]

plain speak....thank you, really helpful

[@robertheintz8017]

Don, were you drunk when you stole that sign?

[@donsengine3158]

Which one??

[@robertheintz8017]

@@donsengine3158 7-11 lol

[@donsengine3158]

Oh that one.. ya.. The business next to ours was a sign maker. The guy would let me take any of the Junkers in the back that were OK to put up in the shop for deco. I don't know why I brought this one home though. Soon to be be replaced by a lit PBR bar sign with the garage being re-arranged. @@robertheintz8017

[@scullerlmt]

When you're indicating what we need to see....get your body and hands out of the way. Not good

[@Mohammad-hh9hr]

Hi sir thank you for your video. What is the reason for the wear of the blade of the wheel in the event of rotation and how is it treated