How to set steel posts in concrete part 2, here In Brisbane, Queensland.

How to set steel posts in concrete part 2
Here in Brisbane , Queensland, Australia.
How to fit steel posts.
Setting the steel post to correct position using string lines, a level and a sledge hammer.
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Thanks.
Updated 22.Dec.2020
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[@robmossop1301]

Thanks Dieter, your bracing method is simple but ingenious. A great help. You are very generous for sharing your knowledge and responding to everyone with additional questions. The world needs more givers like you. Thanks Mate!

[@em2012ish]

nice idea with the brackets, that is what I was trying to figure out before going to set my posts

[@joshsmith82819]

Thankyou, this is a super clear and understandable video. I'm about to attempt putting in some metal H, C and 90d, posts for a concrete sleeper wall 800mm high and 6.4m long. This was the first video I looked at and I don't need to find any other I really appreciate how good of a system you're explainig here

[@juzzypham7421]

Thanks Dieter! Awesome video

[@barryduckworth5224]

Liked your idea with the planks clamped to the bottom for feet. Thanks for taking the time to post the video.

[@886014]

The brackets are a good idea for steel posts. Thanks

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Thank you for watching

[@tineaniano30]

good tutorial, thinking of installing a galv post 89mmx89mm at 2.5 meters apart, what is the ideal depth for it. thanks

[@paulcurrie617]

Dieter, thanks for the video. I used this technique on some 6"x6" steel sqare tube posts 3/16" thick 12.5' high. I needed to go about 42"-48" deep due to the Frost line. Since I didn't want to pull these 200lb posts out of the ground I dug the holes a few inches deeper than called for and lowered the posts as needed with a 2nd bracket to act as a stop above the bottom bracket. It worked great! Thanks for posting. It made the job much more manageable

[@venerosantitto9959]

That was very good way of putting steel posts in concrete footings. I might actually use that timber frame support. Thanks.

[@troyd-motorsport9933]

Super helpful thank you. Im about to do a DIY carport and was wondering how to do the steel posts but that bracing method is awesome!

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Yes it makes it very easy to do as long as you do one post at a time. You can of course attach bracing frames to the posts so you can do many in one concrete pour.

[@troyd-motorsport9933]

@@DieterSoegemeier Thank you, have you got any videos of the bracing frames? As I have 4 to do and only a rented excavator, auger and concrete mixer.

[@DieterSoegemeier]

@@troyd-motorsport9933 Hay mate if you are mixing the concrete your self ten you will not need any bracing frames as you will be doing one stump at a time. Whem you fill the holes with concrete leave them about 50 to 100mm down from the top as you will need to knock the posts with a sledge hammer to get them into the correct posission and then let the concrete set.then come back the next day and remove the timber support brackets and then do the concrete domes to finnish the job. Good luck

[@troyd-motorsport9933]

@@DieterSoegemeier thanks mate, I appreciate your help!

[@edwardkirton]

Thank you, sir, this method worked well. I found it useful to adjust the post plumb a couple times mid-pour (I was using a mixer, not a pump, so it took a while to mix).

[@railworld5591]

Thank you, I'm planning to build a steel patio and will use this.

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Thats great. Let me kmow how it goes for you and If you need any mote tips, please send a text.

[@victorcharlie9548]

Thanks Dieter! Great detailed process!

[@tonetooth]

This looks great - gave me an idea for stabilising my retaining wall posts. I suspect the same process can be used. Thanks

[@guts294-v2h]

great work you just made my life easier and my skill better top man

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Thank you John, Glad I could help.

[@hepburn118]

Genius, just genius. I have to put up a steel framed fence at my joint and was wondering how to put up the up-rights and i wonder no longer. No hesitation subscribing at all.

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Thank you Shaun.

[@samuraicowboy9605]

Thank you for this video, very helpful and informative.

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Thank you

[@bigvicz]

Awesome work sir, just what I needed to set up a carport I'm building

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Glad I could help. Thank you for watching

[@indy1234567891011]

Great videos man. Will use this method soon.

[@gsadlerdavid]

Awesome Explanation. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@paulazzopardi6964]

Thanks mate. Excellent helpful video.

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Thank you

[@azzzaa8812]

awesome idea with the timbers an tyedown rods cheers

[@burlymugg]

this is great man, definitely going to use this method thank you

[@smiggieballs8805]

Thanks mate. This helped me more than you know

[@andrewbryce6653]

Good on ya Dieter, appreciate the tips

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Thanks Andrew.

[@timjackson4045]

Thanks for the video mate. Good job!

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Thankyou Tim

[@okgearheads3551]

Genius!

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Thank you

[@chineymafia]

Thank you for sharing ur technique. You helped me for sure

[@dickberry3910]

Thanks mate! Setting some 15 footers soon and will be using your style timbers to hold in wet connie! Cheers 🍻

[@MrKrasvital]

How about pour concrete or oil inside each post to prevent corrosion?

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Posts in most cases do not corode from thr inside out as unless there is a hole for moisture to get in or out.

[@comisari38]

thanks for the good idea about the timber brackets

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Hi Ian Glad I could help.

[@TheLaidbackBiker]

Great video! I've only got to set 2 metal fence post 4"x4"x8'. This method should work work very well. Thanks!

[@PatrickD-id5xr]

Nice vid

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Thank you

[@ramosfurtado5313]

Great Videos and detail. Tks Dieter. Do you have any videos on fixing LVL beams to a 200x200 steel post for a verandah connected to a house on a slope?

[@yeryangchang5000]

Just want to say Thanks!!! Appreciate it.

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Thank you

[@kallan2255]

Great stuff mate

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Thank you I hope you have a great Christmas and a fantastic New Year.

[@rudyrivera5256]

Thanks for sharing !! 🤙🏻

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Thank you for watching. I hope it of use to you

[@andydaddy2009]

my dad used to use sawhorses with a slide bracket on one side..4 legs..a little higher..

[@LizzyBufton]

thank you, very helpful!

[@tnt-thisnthat-securityalar8656]

Hi Dieter. Im going to be installing a solar CCTV set up with a 4m Galvanized pole to support approx 30kg of total weight . I've discussed maintenance options with the client and just wondering if I need to do anything extra to strengthen the pole (in concrete) - on occasion they will need to lean a ladder on it for maintenance and cleaning. The plan is to set the pole in about 450mm deep using quick-set concrete. Do you think that will be strong enough to withstand a ladder leaning on it with up to 100kg person on the ladder?

[@jobloggs8022]

thanks for the video, How deep into the concrete does the post need to be,

[@closertothetruth9209]

thanks for this video

[@micdal22]

Thanks for sharing your method. Watched your previous clip with interest also. What you didn't show is how to lift the posts into the concrete pads and how to get the correct height. I presume the timbers clamped to the posts assist in that task?

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Hi. thanks for the comment and with regard to heighting the posts, Being I am as steel fabricator, we come allong and cut the posts off to the correct height after they are set and the concrete has gone hard and then weld the required plates to the top. My son and I lift the posts into place in the concrete, As we are both able to lift and carry up to 150kg. Most posts are less than that and for anything heaver we use an excavator to do the lifting.

[@micdal22]

@@DieterSoegemeier Thanks for the additional information. I could only dream of lifting 150 Kg .... or even half of that. Take care not to damage your back as the pain could come years after the damage is done.

[@DieterSoegemeier]

@@micdal22 Yes that is true as I have a lower back injury I did 33 years ago and it still hurts. But that did not stop me lifting 600kg when I was 40, now I am 61 I am reduced to 150kg but I am still here. Merry Christmas to you and hope you have a great New Year. 2021 is going to be fantastic.

[@drewd7824]

Did you paint the part that’s in the concrete?

[@avantgardecustomz]

Very Informative video! Thank you big help!!!!

[@bigwoodysprucemoose]

Hi mate, thanks for doing the video. What is the coating you have applied to the posts before concreting them in? Thanks

[@rushy4122]

Hot dipped galvanized

[@WHEREtheFUNK]

setting an 12 footer in the ground tomorrow for N outdoor heavy bag work out area. Its 76mm square tube 7mm thick. my biggest concern was keeping it plumb so this helps a lot. The brackets/bracing I will do. I wont need the sledgehammer but it was interesting

[@DieterSoegemeier]

I am glad that I was able to help. Thank you.

[@DanielGonzalez-oy1ii]

Excellent. Txs for sharing

[@yefaircity]

After video 1 and before video 2 , You never showed putting posts in holes ? was there a plate welded to bottom ends ? Were/would those posts to support A roof ?

[@jbatisi6930]

Excellent video, very informative and concise. Theoretically if these were H beams for a retaining wall, with a fence going on top how would you set a height level across all posts?

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Fir a retainer wall I would set up a stringline ans use the brackets to hold the steel at the desired hight before puoring the concrete. Then once the concrete is poured and posts positioned cprrectly, I wpuld then use wedges or packers to adjust the hight of the brackets to get the posts back to the desired height.

[@jbatisi6930]

@@DieterSoegemeier of course, that makes so much sense. Thank you Dieter, incredibly helpful!!

[@DieterSoegemeier]

@@jbatisi6930 Glad to be of help

[@ltlt9576]

Great video mate, much appreciated

[@gregorythomas5944]

awesome job guys

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Thank you Dregory

[@andyklavins]

Thanks for the video. A very good idea. How thick was the base plate welded to the bottom of the 5m posts?

[@josephhooper8655]

nice video. thanks mate. what size is good for house stumps? 3mm, 5mm just small to medium single story timber fibro house. much appreciated.

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Alwayse go at least 5mm that way you should get more than 5 years out of it, and paint it with oil based paints before it goes into the ground to protect it against corrosion. 2 coats if possiable and at least 6 inshes below top of concrete or cold joint and 6 inshes above top of concrete

[@josephhooper8655]

@@DieterSoegemeier Thank you Dieter. That's the first time i watched your videos. I plan on watching your other videos. Cheers.

[@DieterSoegemeier]

@@josephhooper8655 Thank you. I hope they are helpful for you.

[@simonandrews6160]

Great video! Dieter would you mind sharing with me which 2 pack epoxy you use to protect galvanised steel posts? Do you use a primer aswell? Thanks in advance.

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Hi Carl I use Inyernational paints InterPlus 1180, But any 2 pack paint will do or even 2 coates of oil based enamel as long as it is dry before you cover with concrete. The idea is to have an oil bases layer inbetween the lime and the zinc to stop corrosion. No primer needed. Thank you for your comment.

[@rouruinapataanga9410]

Ohhhh cool well did

[@amlolover5857]

Good morning Great job that is exactly what I want to do with my patio cover I live in Beavercreek Oregon and I wonder if you guys do any work in this state Thank you

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Hi James We live in Brisbane Australia and our building standards are 2 to 3 times higher than over in the States. But if you copy what I do it will survive most of your worst storms. We build things here to handle our summer storms that we can have 2 or 3 times in one day and usually come through at 100 mile an hour and drop on average 6ins of rain in 30 minutes. some are stronger but this in what we have as a building coad here in brisbane.

[@Tympan]

Nice one. Thanks a lot.

[@chrislowe6278]

Can you do a video of augering the holes through rock please?

[@aussieridingbuddies4905]

your a good a teaching stumping.

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Hi Glen, nice to here from you. Thank you for your comment. How are you, doing well I hope. Thanks mate.

[@modestcody123]

Good job mate!

[@rbukowski]

I’m installing a 2.4m x 50mm post, 600 mm into the ground. Do I pour the concrete first and the push the post down, or pour the concrete around the post whilst it is already in the hole?

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Personly I like to place the post into the concrete, with a bracket fitted so the post will stand up by it self and then level it. As long as the concrete is stil soft.

[@georget7865]

Dieter, Great video. Liked the post setting braces. Going to do the same for a retaining wall. Might use steel posts. No warp or rot. The auger. Is that something any excavator has or can get and attach to their equipment: skid steer or backhoe? I live in an rural area and so not always easy to get someone out here. Always have to think, what I can do myself etc... if I can’t get the help. Plan on attaching 2x6” planks (pressure treated and tripled stained all the way around) on both sides and bolting through at 3 places, on each side of steel posts on both ends and half down in the middle. Any video demonstrating the auger?

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Hi George †hanks for the comment. Steel is great in the ground as long as you treat it correctly with an oil based paint or epoxy. Galvanised steel carodes faster than painted steel but neither last very long unless you paint them. Tar is ok but the heavy metals eat through the tar in about 6 years. Enamel is good and if you get 2 coates or more on the steel it should get 20 to 30 years. 2 pac epoxy is best and 2 coates should give you piece of ming for about 50+ years. Any treated timber attached to steel posts should also have a protective coatimg on the steel as the chemicals used in the timber also react with zinc in the galvanizing, so again paint the steel above and below ground level with enamel or epoxy. Also some of my earlier videos have excavators with augers. When ordering the machine from the excavation company, make sure you specify what you need the excavator combo to do and what size auger you need, ie 300mm, 450mm or 600mm diameter. I hope this info is of yse to you and wish you all the best with your endeavors. Thanks Talk again soon. Dieter

[@georget7865]

Dieter, Thank you for the follow-up on steel. I had not researched it thoroughly and your comments were invaluable. This will without a doubt give me something to think about. Thank you!

[@ianpakleppa9879]

Hi Dieter , Can you show how to fit a PFC beam under a house

[@DieterSoegemeier]

I think I have one or two there but I will make a video on fitting steel beams in a week or so and upload that soon.

[@ianpakleppa9879]

@@DieterSoegemeier Hi, Your videos are very informative Regards

[@bardothodol4472]

Thank you!

[@HabaMusic]

Hi Dieter, do you come back later and remove the timber supports and then add more concrete to dome them off?

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Depends on what is required. Yes I take off the timber tempory supports and paint the posts again to fix any damage to the protective coating but some times they are putting down a concrete slab so I leave the footings down so they can do the thickining beams in the slab

[@HabaMusic]

Ok tx, and you normally pour first then push in the post? Ok to have them in first and braced with the temporary supports, and then pour?

[@sala6961]

Great idea but damit I didn't paint bottoms and tape. Hope I'll get atleast 10yrs out of my pre-galvanised posts

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Just remember that galvanised steel corodes faster than black or painted steel. As the lime in the concrete reacts chemiclly with the zinc in the galvanising as soon as you add water.

[@sala6961]

@@DieterSoegemeier yea I had already concreted in my posts a few days before seeing your video. I should've done my research first. Thankyou for the tips for future diy

[@DieterSoegemeier]

@@sala6961 Still a good idea to go round the posts with a good enamel paint and down onto the concrete base an inch or so to prevent water getting into the cold joint between the concrete and the steel

[@fatdadskinnydad3856]

How would you determine how far to put the posts in?

[@DieterSoegemeier]

The posts in most cases are around 800mm on the concrete. On a hole up to 1m deep i keep 150 200 off the bottom. if the holes aare deeper then I also fitt 2 to 4 12mm bars of reo in the holes to keep the piers strong as per engineering

[@grassyfieldz4578]

Is there any difference by putting post in first then placing concrete around it instead of dipping the post in?

[@DieterSoegemeier]

No you can set the posts in the ground first , just doing it this way because they are small posts and it keeps the posts cleaner.

[@grassyfieldz4578]

Ok thanks also your posts appear to have some sort of sealer around the lower part is this to protect against the concrete corroding the post? I set a post the other day then found out that concrete corrodes galvanized metal so now i'm worried

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Yes that is true but if you now paint the post with an oil based paint or epoxy and alsu paint tabout 50mm of the concrete adding more paint to fill the area where the concrete and steel meet. that will seal the area from water and therefore no corrosion can take place. Have a look at my video called " protecting steel posts from corrosion No 3

[@benjerome1366]

Dieter Soegemeier by moving the post in the concrete are you not creating a void for water to get in?

[@cdgarrett1]

I am looking for information to build my front and side stoop on my home using steel tubing. The pressure treated lumber Lowe's and Home Depot sells now a days is worthless for exterior use. It rots just as fast as untreated lumber. I want to build a freestanding stoop or deck with stainless steel.

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Stainless steel is good but fery expensive. Steel with a 2 pac coating much cheaper.

[@Mrdubomb]

Can you just use the two part coating over steel or do you want the steel to be galvanized first

[@chrisw3172]

how do u know your 2 strings r square?

[@Andrei.Christop]

probably by the measurements

[@AdamCanFly]

I don’t have enough room for brackets.

[@vbroder15]

Don’t think this brackets are strong enough to hold such high posts, if any strong wind and you are out of plumb.

[@DieterSoegemeier]

I have used these brackeys to hold up to 300kg and they work fine in fair wind because we do not work in strong wind conditions.

[@petermalabar1586]

next time align your post and put fixture so that it will not move or miss align and if all post done pour cement to holes becuase your style if someone touch your post and the concrete is not yet dry 100% your post will miss align again

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Hi Peter thanks for your comment. I have been doing this for 35 years now and on houses with up to 120 posts with no problems. yes 1or 2 some times move due to comcrete shrinkage when it is going off but easily fixed . I use the same method for posts 1 foot high or 12m high with n need to brace them.

[@robertbutler8004]

The post is not meant to be level at all they are meant to be plumb and you should know better than that!!!

[@jokerjones8801]

Its not in the same height after😅

[@DieterSoegemeier]

No they are not the same hight, That is why we set them high so we can come later and cut them to the correct heights and weld the correct tops on to the posts for the builder to do his next stage of the job. Thamkyou for your comment.

[@buttsniffa7469]

Hi Dieter, great video, the brackets are a great idea. Could you tell me if you set the posts in position before pouring the concrete in the hole with clearance underneath the bottom of the posts??

[@DieterSoegemeier]

Hi how you doin. I set the brackets to the desired depth and fit the post in the hole after I fill it with concrete. It is easer and cleaner that way for posts under 5m but for posts 6m and higher I put them into the hole first then pour the concrete around them. Once the hole is filled with concrete and the post is in then I spend a little time getting it into place by tapping it over with a sledge hammer, then move on to the next one and so on for 15 or 20 minutes then come back to the first one and set it correctly into possition and then continue to all the others. It is important not to do to many at one time untill you get uesd to concrete setting rates as the concrete will go hard before you finnins setting the posts especially on a hot day. That is why when I do free standing posts I like to mix on site so I can control how many we do at a time.