How To Set Up Cable Disc Brakes On A Bike| Bicycle Maintenance Basics

[@gcntech]

Do you use cable disc brakes? Let us know 👇

[@PrzemyslawSliwinski]

Had used them for 20 000 miles (TRP Spyre - not the cheapest if not more expensive than basic hydraulic MTB sets). But then I just touched the lever of the hydraulic disc brake... I admit, however, the cable disc brakes are easier to set up. And the variety of pads' shapes is [...] annoying!

[@birdingsualk9865]

Trp spyre (slc)...best mechanical disc brake you can buy! (got one in flat mount edition)

[@dioright]

Yeah, dual actuated DB are brilliant. I impressed that you make a video about them, because everyone avoid to talk about it (even it's single pull caliper, which is suck).

[@elijg6104]

Yeah, unfortunately I set them up the day before you released this video.

[@kedarkulkarni3030]

Do the semi hydraulic disc brakes self adjust

[@Pienimusta]

2:24 Henry screaming somewhere "CONTAMINATION!!"

[@TiberiusMoon]

Pro tip: Tighten the caliper bolts a bit at a time switching from top to bottom, tightening one of the two bolts fully in one go will cause the caliper and rotor to shift off centre.

[@paulbrown4606]

Doesn't matter they still move, the best way is to add another washer and you'll get your calipers perfectly centred with your rotor every time

[@mysteriomonkie]

Should have watched this before spending 5 days trying to centre my brakes by eye. Nice one.

[@GaryPerlmutter]

Thanks so much after watching this I was able to adjust my brakes correctly. Very clear instructions !!

[@walcottav]

I'll pile on the mechanical-hydraulic bandwagon. TRP and Yokozuna's are great with the added bonus of using standard brake levers. A video addressing this type of brake would be appreciated!

[@walshman70]

Nice one. Clear and thorough. Will come in handy on my commuter bike!

[@motojc]

Thanks. My new bike (brake) is making a scratching noise. I think your procedure should solve it. I'll try it tomorrow.

[@joeyc8546]

I am looking at cable actuated hydraulic callipers. Would be interesting to see how effective they are compared to the other options and maintenance needs, got their own reservoir. Pad material you didnt mention semi metallic as the third type.

[@firstman9273]

Another video bookmarked for upcoming first e-bike build. Thank you.

[@1970eaudet]

Great man! Thanks, best explanation on the web!

[@raffiecowie-stewart9720]

Thank you for this. Probably just saved me £30 or more. I can do the rim brakes but lacked confidence with discs.

[@GQ08]

If you’re struggling with the caliper moving around as you tighten the mounting bolts down, look for paint overspray between the caliper and frame. This is common and can be fixed with a bit of sandpaper!

[@JVW-qp3wx]

Excellent video! Easy to follow, thank you for posting it.

[@Hardi26]

My 5 years old merida cyclocross bike has trp spyre-c disc brakes. I have cut slot for the brake cables into mounting brackets, with power grinder. Because the bracket originally had some almost like alligator teeth surface to sandwich the cable with. On front brake someone at bike shop where I bought it(it was new bike), had already done it nicely, probably with dremel. But I made the rear one too(It was difficult, but I could do it almost well(it's good enough), with a big power grinder). I had to do it, because it was destroying brake gable.. There was only 2 strains of wire intact when I took it a part. I had adjusted the cable few time as the outer shell had seating in while in use and I guess i had everytime damaged it by undoing and re-tightening it.. But now it's very good. Does not destroy my expensive cable at all, and doesn't slide off too even when squeezing with full strenght.. Rather the plastic brifter lever might break I think. I use jagwire bolished stainless steel cables. They are very good. I also took the calipers apart one and half winters ago. and greased bearings inside, because they had got rusty inside.. And brake bads did not return anymore. And then I made mudguards for brakes to protect them from water and dirt pouching back down to brakes from mudguards.. It helps a lot. Before I even lost front brake one time, even though there was over 1mm compound left on pads. Somehow the spring that comes with pads had got between disc and bad and broke.. I believe it was because sand and tiny rocks raining down from mudguards of wheels. I had to ride home without working front brake that was also making bad sound when metal spring rubing against disc and I was worried all the time that the front wheel may get jammed because did not know if there might be some lose parts somewhere that can get stuck. Also about the outer casings. There's actually a certain radius how much you should pend that casing. So that the end of casing that you cut flat, when it was straight, would still stay flat even after you have routed it on bike. I replaced the original merida handlebar on my bike with richey comp evo max handlebar. And then I noticed that on this new handlebar from richey. The bends that the cable had to follow were perfect.. My big appreciation to enginers/designers from Richey. I think they had taken it into account when designing it. All the bends on my merida frame seems wrong.. Only on that new handlebar they are good. I tried to cut other ends flat after routing the cables, but.. it was difficult.

[@woozertoo]

OMG...a flat bar bike on GCN?! It’s not that often you find unicorns on this channel 🙃

[@brauljo]

I tried drop bars for months, convinced myself into preferring them even after getting cyclist's palsy in both my hands since I would only use the drops. Eventually I went back to flat bars and have never looked back. You can still get aero on them, I cut them down to 5 dm for which I had to go with a 25.4 mm clamp diameter, and paired with a 651 mm top tube, a 523 mm stack height, and a 17 degree 15 cm stem, flat bars can still be considered for aggressive road riding. Unless of course you wanna race and the organizers have some sort of imposing drop bar fetish.

[@molley17]

I’ve just got a new bike first time I’ve had to put one together from the box, it’s got cable disc brakes but they aren’t that sharp at the moment they look setup to me and no rubbing do they just need to bed in?

[@thanhnguyen4908]

i would like to know is there u recommend any set mechanical brake disk will fit F10 pinarello ???

[@BasicUtuberNo.1990]

How hard did you depress the handle to set the brake?

[@petinka721]

Great video and it had been fun see a break test between the different bike breaks.

[@jotunson]

How tight do you tighten the caliber screw's once you've changed the cable? If you go full tight will it damage the new cable ?

[@bobabout256]

How about doing a wet and dry cable disk / hydraulic disk / calliper brake test for 4 % down hill stopping distance comparison?

[@davidcalcek3575]

@GCNTech I have a passion for cycling, but need some guidance. I have a rich man’s taste for bikes, but have a poor man’s salary. I feel like I can get a good bike for about 500-800 with rim brakes, but I would really like to have hydraulic disks. What would I need to convert the brakes? Would it be more worth it to just pay the extra for a bike with disks already fitted? Thanks! David C

[@gcntech]

Good question David, unfortunately most frames won't be compatible with both types of brakes, so the best thing to do is to save up and buy one with discs from the off. Hope this helps :)

[@andrewgray4212]

Really good video

[@paulbrown4606]

If your having trouble with rotor rub when you tighten your calipers bolts, add an extra washer, this stops the caliper moving when tightening the bolts and you get your calipers centered with your rotor every time.

[@paulbrown4606]

This is on road bike calipers

[@vernefits1953]

beautiful bike. what tires is using?

[@carbonsuicidemtb1583]

Great video, but I would like to point out that resin pads can "glaze" under high temperature, resulting in a bad loss in performance, you can sand off the glazing, but that can be nightmare in itself keeping the pads surface even, so if you live somewhere with long descents, buy metal (sintered) pads, Shimano's ice tech discs really help too

[@kedarkulkarni3030]

Please make a video on semi hydraulic disc brakes like the ones on Triban RC 520..

[@moslemjahani6640]

Can I use 700c x 45 fenders?

[@allenshulman]

I see you used what appears to be a Park tool to straighten a warped rotor, and I wondered why you weren't using the Park tool that can be used to set the precise distance between the two pads. It may be attributable to the the fact that I am used to an hydraulic disc brake system (Campy) and you were working on a cable actuated system. (I have to admit that it took me an embarrassingly long time to figure out how to avoid rotor-rubbing and how to keep the system quiet. The tech at my LBS taught me how to use the tool and it's been a breeze ever since.)

[@jonathanzappala]

allenshulman yes this is because he’s working on mechanical. You are referring to the pad spreader, that’s only for hydraulic to push the pistons back in. On mechanical, the “pistons” are the screws that move the pads in and out.

[@charlesfulks2982]

If I have a aluminum frame with a carbon seat post do I need fibergrip? Will some greases corrode the carbon? Does the same go for handelbars and stem?

[@jonathanzappala]

Charles Fulks if you can use grease without the post slipping in my opinion that is best. If it’s a tight fit it should not slip, a looser fit you can get slipping with grease. That prevents the stuck seatpost. Otherwise no, you do not need fiber grip for a carbon post in a metal frame.

[@charlesfulks2982]

Jonathan Zappala Thanks!

[@ShihabdeentheCyclist]

My bike's front wheel disc brake's inside adjuster can't be adjusted I tried several times but the alen key bolt is rounded due jammed I applied WD40 to loosen can't. How to fix this

[@Endeva09]

Hi mate, this happened to me yesterday, there are a few ways to fix this but the one that worked for me, as crazy as it sounds, was to hammer a Torx head into the allen head then ease it out. Also WD40 probably wont help, you need something like 3-In-One.

[@richardhaselwood9478]

This would have been a very useful video about 5 years ago when I got my TRP equiped disc brake ;)

[@marketingsam]

Help! I've got the basic ones like in the video so can only adjust the barrel adjuster one side. He said something about readjusting the caliper? Can anyone help?

[@AaronGoodTimes]

#askgcntech - If your bike comes with a 140mm rotor on the rear wheel, can you change that to a 160mm rotor to match the front? Does it depend on your bike or will various adapters make it work?

[@nemeanf27]

not a good idea. Frames are designed to withstand the forces from braking with the size rotors they come with. Putting on a larger rotor for better braking can destroy a frame as it wouldn't withstand the extra energy going through it. I did the exact thing with a MTB years ago and it destroyed the frame.

[@jonathanzappala]

The other comment is wrong. Yes you can, you just need a 160mm adaptor. Heavy riders need more leverage. The bike designer didn’t know how much you weigh when they designed the bike. A bigger rotor gives you more leverage, but it does not give you more power. Road bikes are limited by tire size before rotor size. It would also give a little more cooling off you are warping the small rotor.

[@AaronGoodTimes]

@@jonathanzappala Thanks!

[@ili4707]

How do you know if you have to change the brake pads? Is there an Indikator somewhere,

[@gcntech]

They will be worn down to the metal backing plate, or will have become glazed (by which they are incredibly smooth an no longer gripping the disc)

[@ili4707]

@@gcntech Thanks

[@PutinosauRUS]

Useful video. This British accent is so nice) Leever

[@ognathan1995]

What is the best mechanical disk brakes?

[@JeanFrancoisDesrosiers]

The ones you take care of.

[@runningwithshemp]

If you don't have thru axles use closed cam skewers like XT's helps reduce brake jack. If you still find them inline tamdem Travel Agents from Problem sovles can take up quite bit of cable slack in the lever pull. No matter how much the BB7 where redesigned road they still under perform comparied to their mt bike anologs. Never used TRP's or Shimano mechincals for road, anyone reading this used all three?

[@alexorozco2230]

Could I use mechanical disc brakes with an ultegra di2 shifters? The rim brake groupset are cheaper than the hydraulic disc version.

[@sheahoffman3218]

If it’s for the rim and it would be the same ones assuming that they are both mechanical

[@jonathanzappala]

Yes, but it won’t feel as nice. I agree 8070 shifters are sky high priced

[@alexorozco2230]

@@jonathanzappala I currently have the hydraulic brakes and mechanical ultegra and I really don't feel the need for the extra power in breaking. Just wondering in what to use the ride to work this year

[@adriemooi]

#askgcntech I was woundering if it's safe to use (car) tire shine on bike tires? Perhaps they would get slippery?

[@orcus09]

Havent seen a hybrid for quite a long while. The bike looks awesome though!

[@brauljo]

The flat bars make it look better.

[@wangdangdoodie]

They are still available - now called 'gravel bikes'!

[@Fixingeverthingwithaengine567]

I have a pair of xtech cable pull hydraulic disc brakes.

[@DennisTeohKokEe]

Cable actuated hydraulic disc brake are the 3rd type for disc brake.

[@brauljo]

Rim brakes are essentially the fourth type where the rim is the disc.

[@wangdangdoodie]

@@brauljo Technically, wheels are rotors, not disc's.

[@brauljo]

@@wangdangdoodie You're making a distinction without a difference. Rotor and disc is the same thing. If not, what is the disc in disc brakes?

[@stektirade]

My back caliper looks like its angled and rubs on the top of the pad and can never get it straight. I have no clue how to fix this.

[@8paolo96]

Oh, Ollie is good, but for this videos we miss Jon

[@cjones7854]

As a mechanic who worked at a shop for a few years, hydraulic brakes rarely move the pads evenly due to the pistons being dirty and not moving freely. Theoretically, one can loosen the bolts, squeeze the lever while you tighten the bolts, and the caliper will be centered on the rotor but it almost never works. Just in case you're thinking about getting hydraulics instead of mechanicals because it theoretically makes this process easier. It really doesn't.

[@maxabdullatif2930]

Hi. Anyone have tips on cleaning gum wall tires? #AskGCN

[@sukione9419]

my disc brake is not returning to their position when i brake they brake and then stay in that position still braking and i can move them back with my hands but they wont return bythemself

[@jonathantatler]

If you have the mounts for disc brakes then throw the cable type in the bin and swop them for hydraulic. Job done!

[@roadglide]

SRAM Red AXS and hydro disc. Smooth. Easy and reliable.

[@zachfalzon8360]

when i break the pad clicks out and doesn’t connect w the disc so now i have no brakes

[@gcntech]

Sounds like it might be worth a trip to you're local bike shop. 🙌

[@PKownzthem]

I have Avid BB7s on my otherwise pretty okay roadbike (Alloy frame + 105), and I friggin hate them. They perform worse than my GFs rimbrakes (older Chorus) and way worse than my MTBs Hyd. DB. It's a pain in the ass to set them up. Either the lever travel is shitty or they rub, no matter what I do.

[@robm6014]

#askgcntech great video - first time I had to change out the pads on my mechanical disc brakes (Giant Defy) it took me about 2 1/2 hrs of messing around and several handfuls of hair being pulled out! I was wondering if someone can help with an issue I have... both my front and back brakes have grown a tendency to stick shut on the discs when I pull them hard. Kind of annoying to have to dismount and unstick them manually several times a ride. Anyone had this before? I’m not sure if it’s the spring mechanism that gummed up or perhaps the cable sticking (although it was recently replaced)? Any ideas? I recently replaced my Giant (which is soon to retire to a more gentle life!) with a new Pinnacle Arkose which has hydraulic discs... absolute game-changer! I’ve found mechanical discs great for not destroying your rims when commuting 1000s km, but not much else (no better than rim brakes for performance). Hydraulics on the other hand are just incredible. Defo worth the extra cash if you can stretch to it!

[@Michaelsmith21588]

I had the same problem on my Defy with TRP Spyre disc brakes. Only on the front though. Just replaced the cable, hope it's gone now. Also the cable wore out pretty quick

[@scottrider7271]

I was looking for 2 things ...1- reason to not buy disc brakes 2-a video to put me to sleep.... EXCELLENT!

[@attackscorpion5323]

Video starts @2:50

[@rzeckner]

I have been wondering why Ollie has suddenly begun to take an interest in his appearance and his hair in particular. The addition of Manon and his newly acquired spiffed-up appearance seem to coincide. I guess if I worked with Manon I'd want to look my best too!

[@janwillemkuilenburg7561]

Ollie, don’t touch the rotor with your hands please!

[@gcntech]

He's still new to disc brakes, don't worry we'll set him right

[@lunarsoles]

Wouldn't the tiny amount of oil that gets transferred onto the brakes not simply get burned off?

[@prathaps848]

Did he just loosen the rear brake barrel adj and fiddle with the front brake? Hmm, i know this is just a demo :)

[@n.lyndley.9889]

The front brake is on the right side in the U.K.

[@kacperkosowski9506]

This bike was really easy to assemble kzbin.infoUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.

[@WanderABit]

IMHO you got it wrong -- loosen up the brakes, "unscrew" the pads, insert brake pads adjuster, brake (hold the lever), now tighten the brake screw, get rid of brake pads adjuster, loosen the screw on cable, tension the cable, "screw" in the pads. Not to mention, do not touch the rotor with your bare hands, unless you want to make the brakes more greasy.

[@juliewalls5804]

Where is John?

[@radiophodity]

3:27

[@thomasjenkinson728]

Just so you are aware rotar is an american term used for what we call a disk!

[@davidfromyoutubemobile4607]

Ca I make my mountain bike turn ito a road bike

[@Pienimusta]

You can make it more suitable for road but not into a road bike by for example changing the tyres. Geometry is biggest difference between two and you cannot really change it too radically. By changing every possible component, it would be cheaper to buy a road bike.

[@DennisTeohKokEe]

from XC MTB to a drop bar Gravel Bike is possible.

[@bikeszone1]

It's possible. Check @cycl.in on Instagram. MTB dropbar conversion with cable discs, Avid BB7 MTB. Long pull.

[@davidfromyoutubemobile4607]

@@Pienimusta thanks mate

[@davidfromyoutubemobile4607]

@@DennisTeohKokEe thanks mate

[@vgjgghbgyjn1985]

Kdf in compton seems like a liberal

[@gilescudmore7325]

Can't adjust caliper as it isn't an Allen, looks like a Colin or even a Richard. Changing pads was easy enough but trying to centre an utter b***h.

[@Anchorpin01]

The best way to set up cable disc brakes is to cut the cables off, remove the cable callipers, and then replace the whole setup with a hydraulic system.

[@Anchorpin01]

Cable disc brakes, the worst of both worlds: all of the flex and sponginess of cable brakes combined with the added faff maintenance of disc brakes to stay on top of ‘brake squeal’.

[@Anchorpin01]

I’ve got cable rim brakes on 2 of my road bikes, easy to maintain and set up. I’ve hydraulic disc brakes on my ‘halo’ road bike - awesome performance and amazing ‘lock up’ feel for maximum braking. And then I’ve got cable discs on my first ‘modern’ bike, a MTB/road hybrid which is a nasty-braking built-to-a-budget bag-o-shite, mainly due to its shite cable-disc brakes.

[@aggro0o886]

Wat a bell end. lol

[@Grunge_Cycling]

What are you talking about?! Metallic pads have way better heat dissipation and stopping power than resin parts. Fake news lol

[@JeffWagen]

Lol, resin dissipates better the heat by melting away 🤣

[@carbonsuicidemtb1583]

True, plus risen pads glaze over, resulting in you using your chamois as toilet paper, so in a way are GCN trying to save on toilet paper? Not a bad idea considering what's going on 😂

[@JeffWagen]

@@carbonsuicidemtb1583 Shimano advocates resin pads, as they wear out quicker you have to buy new ones, and Shimano wants you to do that. And we know Shimano sponsors GCN so...

[@carbonsuicidemtb1583]

@@JeffWagen I doubt it's a conspiracy bud, roadies still struggle with discs, I was a roadie, cat 2, new technology is weird and suspicious to them, even though open system disc brakes have been around for 20 years, Jesus, I remember being the DH team mechanic testing the first open system hydraulic brakes as prototypes from formula 24 years ago.....

[@JeffWagen]

@@carbonsuicidemtb1583 I wouldn't say conspiracy, it's more like an "induction". Or Ollie doesn't really know what he was saying lol!

[@crypto_que]

Why on Earth would a bicycle need hydraulic disc brakes? Discs are too much for road, & hydro disc is way overkill.

[@_Zane__]

I hate mechanical disc brakes.

[@Pienimusta]

Not sure why anyone would buy new cable disc brakes. Weights more, worse performance and needs more adjustments.

[@gcntech]

Sometimes people can only afford cable disc brakes

[@Pienimusta]

Cheapest "mountain bike caliber" disc brakes start from about 30€/piece (Shimano MT400).

[@cathallawlor989]

@@Pienimusta for some reason road bike hydraulics are much more expensive.

[@andrew8992]

Pienimusta cable disc brakes are still a popular choice for long distance endurance cyclists as they are easy to fix and repair at the road side. In contrast Hydraulic systems need lots of fiddly proprietary tools and fluids.

[@sfasto1]

@@Pienimusta A road bike hydraulic set goes for like $400........