How to Set Up & Support Your 3D Printed Dice

Struggling to get quality 3D prints on your Dice Masters? Let's fix that.
This video was sponsored by My Mini Factory.
Here is a link to the written version of this video on the My Mini Factory Blog:
www.myminifactory.com/blog/se...
Here is a link to The Blue Mimic's MMF page:
www.myminifactory.com/users/T...
Here is a link to to The Blue Mimic's MMF dice STL's:
www.myminifactory.com/object/...
Check out ImagiNation Labs with Rev Chumley on KZbin! Huge thanks to him for the connected fin/line supports idea. (With our powers combined, we will rule the universe!): • 3D Resin Printing Mast...
Here is a download link to my free dice (now with pre-supports!): www.dropbox.com/sh/ymqlmpzp6k...
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• "Summer Groove" Future...

[@franciscoalonso1493]

Hi, maybe it has been pointed out already: From my experience I solved the inhibition problen (Anycubic grey resin, just in case): - Curing under UV Light for approx 30 min - Soaked in Isopropyl alcohol for 1 hour approx - Sanded off every face and soaked again on alcohol for another hour After that I could use those 3D printed dice masters right away to make the silicone molds. Hope it helps anyone without spending a lot on Inhibit-X or other products, specially for people who is not making a ton of dice.

[@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley]

Thanks for the shout out @Rybonator Glad my method helped out. Always glad when we can get the word out on how to make printing dice a bit less frustrating. I'm probably to blame for the whole "leave them out for a couple weeks" thing from my surprise on testing inhibit x alternatives. I'll be curious to find out if it works in your experiment.

[@Rybonator]

Rev, you are the absolute man! You were the missing link 100%, and your vids are so soothing to watch. Quality stuff my friend :) Hey, if you fixed 2 problems, that just makes you that much smarter! I'll report back after a few weeks/months.

[@sev705]

I find my best results are just letting them air for a week. I know there was another method floating around where you cure normally and then do a second cure in water that lets you mold in a day or two but I haven't tried it yet.

[@LadyLindsaysCreations]

@@Rybonator After 6 months, what was the turn out? Lol, if I can save $50, I'm more than happy to wait.

[@mrjinglesdice6745]

@@LadyLindsaysCreations I've done both the wait a week and over curing. I've yet had silicone fail in me. Both DG 20 AND SC 37

[@nourson54]

I found once a 'scientific' document on plat. silicon inhibition and SLA resins. The conclusion was that using a UV cure of ~15 min + 4h in a 120°C oven suppress inhibition for almost all resins . I had to find it again and post the link

[@chiaracarolinaalbergante8989]

In these days I was going crazy on how to put supports, and here comes Rybo to save me!

[@Rybonator]

Perfect timing! I did it for you:)

[@HungryHungryArtist12]

Finding your channel got me super hyped to make my own dice. So using my 3D experience I'm making my own custom shaped dice, but ran into this exact issue when printing. So thank you for this! Keep up the great work!

[@Rybonator]

Awesome! Super glad I could help :) I racked my brain for a solution for ages and this seemed to work for me so hope it does for you!

[@crowsarewatching540]

One of the highlights of my weekend is always the weekly Rybo video

[@Rybonator]

That's so wholesome :) You rock Fireside! You made my morning!

[@BaramuLord]

I usually use your vids as podcasts, I really like your content and appreciate the time and effort to make the pre-supported file for everyone.

[@lwolfstar7618]

What a supportive video to lift up other makers *chef kiss* I wish you'd made this a few months ago but it'll definitely help a whole bunch of folks

[@40ounces]

you’re awesome for putting up those files for free! they’re the first thing I’m gonna try printing when I get my 3d printer

[@nicklasandersen7785]

Old but gold, thank you for the STL's!

[@Marcario]

My dice from the files that you shared have just finished printing and they turned out absolutely perfect! Thank you so much, I'm a complete beginner and this made everything very easy to understand.

[@EiggyRules]

I printed the dice from your description and they all came out wonderfully! Then using the method I was able to print up my own customs and they came out just as well, excellent work and tutorial!

[@UncleJessy]

Heck yes! This is awesome

[@Rybonator]

No you :) also thank you haha

[@Beastly477]

Definitely took me longer than I'm willing to admit to support my dice in Chitubox, but man this guide is a lifesaver! Thank you very much!

[@cosmicbrambleclawv2]

"Gonna need some support" says the man who claims he ran out of 3d printing puns :P

[@thedollardm4672]

Your tutorials and explanations are invaluable!

[@indranig2920]

I literally got my 3D printer today. You are a MAGICIAN.

[@Rybonator]

Boom! Perfect timing 🙂

[@fyrhtu81]

"We can always take material away but we definitely can't add it back." Uh - UV resin. Very fine eyedropper, UV flashlight. Boom. Now you too can add ugly hunks of material back to fill divots that you can then sand back down to the proper level!

[@CoolTrainerJulio]

Yep I do this all time when I accidentally take chunk out of a mini due to and support placement. Just drop a bit of resin, cure it with the flashlight, sand a bit. Good to go!

[@Socrates458]

Thank you for setting up the supports! That is what I have a hard time with for any print. That and making them not fail miserably.

[@joshuashaw5524]

Thanks for this. It's helping me print my dice with out as many failures and find where to troubleshoot my printer.

[@nicholasbira2817]

This was the video I've been waiting for. I agree, this was the missing link in your educational content. Improving my dice now!

[@nourson54]

Thanks for the video and dice files! For those who want to print it , be aware it's a 14mm d6 based set.

[@willianmarianogajardoni4982]

I always assumed the 3d dice would come out ready to go. Great to know more kkkkk

[@Rybonator]

Ya I totally did too but glad I found a solution that works!

[@willianmarianogajardoni4982]

@@Rybonator Right ? It must have taken some patience. Thanks for sharing it with us.

[@sanakanful]

Thank you for this tutorial. I was just printing my own custom designed dice and was wondering why the corners showed those exact issues you describe. Just tonight while waking from sleeping I thought to myself that I need to improve the supports, but I had no idea how. Now I have a really good starting point for my next tests.

[@madisonwuertz2349]

As someone who’s about to get a 3D printer this is gonna help me tons thank you! Looking forward to seeing how the test works as I would love to make resin masters for dice myself!

[@Rybonator]

Beautiful timing! Best of luck in your making! :)

[@MadShamanLodur]

My guy! thank you for this video. I've been doing some dice and have been struggling with the dropping and I had not considered the fin method. Thank you!

[@Rybonator]

Of course my guy! Glad to help :)

[@WonHaungLo]

This is a great explanation of how I need to do this

[@_JohnC_]

That ImagiNation Labs video was a life saver when I found it awhile ago, I was wasting so much resin trying to get a good master of my dice. I just wish there was a way to automate supports like this I'm also glad you're doing the inhibition test, I've been wanting to try that myself but just haven't had the time

[@Rybonator]

Oh for sure! But hey, a 20 minute support session, and you are good to go! :)

[@Rybonator]

And yeah I am hoping that the test works out alright. It would be nice to not have to rely on inhibit x :)

[@jeffrogers8810]

Do we know if the "wait for it" method is going to work? I'm about to start my journey into dice making. I'm getting a pressure pot and Dragonskin for x_mas this year sooooo excited!

[@BaneWilliams]

Great shoutout for Ameralabs resin, which is one of the best price - performance resins I've ever stumbled across. Its low viscosity makes fine detail really come out with it, and I have less overall failures due to it.

[@WitchOpheliaa]

I absolutely love rhombic shaped dice!! Definitely going to get some shapes like this for my next set of masters! Can't wait to see the result of the experiment you are going to make with the cure inhibition!

[@Rybonator]

That's awesome! Ya I can't wait either. Hopefully this is an actual solution!

[@mustbewilson]

Man I wish this came out like a month ago! In my experience after like 10-15 failed sets... Haha I probably experienced all of the above. Good work man!

[@darkmojojojo]

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks a bunch 😊

[@janetmiller1097]

Ohhhh my gosh!!! I need a 3D printer you have helped me learn so much!!! Thank you for your videos!!! It’s really helped me roll with dice making!!

[@Rybonator]

I'm glad I was able to help Janet! If you get printing, best of luck to you! :)

[@daedelus_]

Perfect timing! Wanted to make my own dice for a long time, since I don't want to use someone elses model to.give away or possibly sell. Recently received my Elegoo Mars, and experienced exactly this. Thanks!

[@Necroxin]

You upload this on the day I plan on calibrating my Sonic Mini 4K for prints! That's some crazy timing! 😉

[@Rybonator]

I did it for you! :)

[@tympestbooks1727]

Very useful and much appreciated video!

[@EspressoMoon]

Thanks so much for this! I have had similar results to yours, and am eager to try supporting with your method. Unfortunately it's a little cold for me to be working in a ventilated area now, so I'll probably have to wait until spring. Hopefully your video about trying the silicone molding without inhibit x will be out by then! Cheers!

[@Luthienne]

Just wanted to leave a mark and say thank you for making the video and making the designs available, that is mightily awesome of you! Showing support with a subscription and a thumbs up. PS Also, really appreciate your pun game :D

[@resonatewithrae4413]

Thank you for making this available!! I'm going to use it to make amd sell molds I'll make sure to add your channel and original designer in my description!!!

[@stellgodemperor6033]

You need more puns 7 isn't enough

[@Rybonator]

I'm sorry I failed you, maybe I can print some more out sometime? ;)

[@shadowlaughers101]

I will say, u got me into dice making and I already had a Mars Pro. I've been printing and polishing the resin die with the Zona paper, and paint in the letters. And as long as u let the dice FULLY cure, I havent had any scratching on the dice at all. Translucent resin seems to cure much harder than grey or opaque resin does. So if anyone doesn't want to mold them and just have them for personal use, just polishing the printer dice works great as long as they are cured

[@Rybonator]

Good to know! I'll be doing some durability tests on resin next month, so maybe we can bring proof to that! :)

Started my channel this week, I’m your fan, Thx for teach us!

[@QuiniansBudgetCrafts]

ah thanks man! Been printing dice lately, this was a big help.

[@semipessimistic]

I needed this so many

[@The_McFortner]

1:52 "...[T]ired of the randomness in that." Heh, I see what you did there.

[@Lavadog11]

I would also recommend looking at any of your prints layer by layer to make sure that nothing is going to start printing in thin air as that will cause defects in the dice that might not be able to get sanded out. I would also use a soft toothbrush to clean the numbers out and rinse it in the alcohol a few times. You don't need new alcohol each time I use dunk it back in the same stuff. I also let all the alcohol dry off completely before throwing them in my UV curing box. That way I don't get any of that shiny resin stuff in the pits of my numbers. Other than that great video!

[@Rybonator]

Oh absolutely! There are many minor steps to improve things you can do :) These are just the basics. Though I don't worry about shiny resin on dice, since we have to sand all sides anyway!

[@silverdragon1314]

I can't tell you how excited this makes me, I was having troubles and I thought it was my printer being messed up dispite some good rest runs on minis. Hopefully this and one other change will fix my problems I'd run and do it now, but I'm with family for another week and obviously didn't lug my printer with me. T.T

[@goatelope7539]

Love the videos

[@tommyfoley]

Try Smooth-On Mold-Max XLS II. It's tin cure silicone but doesn't shrink, has great detail, very flexible, and most importantly cures with 3D printed masters. Right out of the printer. No waiting months. I've had good success. You just need a vacuum chamber and a gram scale.

[@Rybonator]

That's good to know! I always heard that tin cured molds are far less durable. But I might have to just give yours a shot! :)

[@tommyfoley]

Rybonator I was worried about durability too. Haven't had any problems though. It's a little thicker than platinum based. To avoid bubbles, you might have to prep your numbers, like keycap people do to their small deep indented shapes of their masters. If you have questions, contact me at my IG: dojo_do_tofo. P.S. keep up the great work. I love your channel.

[@SlytherinReviews]

awesome video

[@CptWashu]

@Rybonator. Thanks for the files it was the first thing I printed on my new 3d printer. :)

[@SummerNeverEndsDep]

great video! thanks for the advice

[@soshartje]

I've been trying this method and my dice turn out almost good this way. My only problem is that the half of the dice that have the supports gets print elongated and I have no idea why? the part of the dice that faces the vat and is not attached to the supports comes out perfect.

[@armLocalhost]

7:42 you can also ADD material. Get a syringe, wrap in something UV blocking (like aluminum foil), suck the resin you're printing with into the syringe and the carefully put the resin where you want it and cure under the sun or UV light and sand it to shape it. That's how you can fill holes, fix corners and just glue stuff together like regular epoxy.

[@RoseKindred]

This was interesting, thank you. I am modeling up some dice with custom sides and wanted to make a few for myself instead of having a company print 1000 before realising something might need a change.

[@blackaccordlx]

Great video man! Not sure about the resin youre using but with elegoo resin, 2 weeks wait time was all i needed.

[@xavierfaraudo]

Supporting on edges is way to go, definitely! I do it slightly differently (and slightly better, IMHO :D). I use OpenSCAD to generate the models, with a module to add some "walls" that are either strictly tangent or slightly ovelapping on the edge. The parametric nature of OpenSCAD allows to easily make those walls go all the wall or just some part (useful if you're doing chamfered, beveled, rounded, etc. dice). I can also add those "supports" on top, to compensate any distortion by shrinking/ different tension / slightly off results. That's far less work than adding all those gazillion supports, and with perfect orientation /alignment. I did also some dice that can only be 3D printed, AFAIK, as they're hollow on the inside (with draining tubes going to the vertices); I call them "dicenamic". You can void the inside with the dual of the polyhedron, the rectified polyhedron, the same shape, etc., and the balance won't be affected, but they roll like crazy. It's still a work in progress, but if you're interested I can send you files. Cannot imagine anyone better for honest review and insight!

[@mandyvantveer6362]

I was always wondering how to do that. Thanks for the vid! ^o^

[@Rybonator]

Thanks for watching! :)

[@chibster9124]

Thank you so much for uploading presupported models for your dice. I have been having so many problems with them! I noticed you didn't put supports on some of the islands or overhangs so I added my own when I went to print them, just in case.

[@kirstenv-g4459]

Yes thank you!!

[@beefgnawpolisproductions2105]

Holy crap, thank you. I'm working on my first set of masters right now and tearing my hair out over mushy corners and streaky numbers. Sometimes I have decent luck fixing small divots by dabbing in the smallest possible amount of UV resin to fill the dip with a toothpick, laying a bit of clear plexiglass on top to squash it flat, and shoving the whole thing under the UV lamp to cure. The plexiglass will pop off once the resin is cured and if all goes well, you can sand and polish and it'll be fine. Sometimes it doesn't work and it definitely works better on faces than edges, but it's worth a try before you toss and reprint at least.

[@beefgnawpolisproductions2105]

Update: I started the Photon going on a batch of dice before I left for work and came home to what sure as hell look like perfect dice. Won't know for sure until I sand them a little, but I saw no mushy corners or obvious streaky numbers or any of the issues that have plagued me from day one. You're a lifesaver, man.

[@bipolarchemist]

I can confirm that time will heal all that ails you with casting #D resin printed dice in platinum based silicone. I have 5 positive test now for 3D printed objects that are more than 1 month old. Sadly, my EPAX X10 is having sight issues so my experimentation has been slightly halted, but the dice I printer this summer had no issues in the mold housing I printed sometime in September or October. Hard to keep track of time these days, but if you are patient than Inhibit X is unnecessary. And the connected fin method if definitely a more consistent way to get those dice printed without issues. Now if only I could up my Blender skills to produce the supports there as a nice solid plate, my life would be slightly better.

[@corentin777]

Dude ty sooo muchhh

[@RIVERSRPGChannel]

Nice informative video

[@WhiteRaven___]

Dude... I can not thank you enough for this. I have an elegoo mars and gave up trying to print my own dice masters cause of those issues lol

[@WhiteRaven___]

I'm gonna give it another go now lol

[@Rybonator]

Hopefully this is the fix you needed my friend! Best of luck in round 2! :)

[@Mhworley]

At last!! This is GREAT. Printed up a set already. Can you post your files with supports on the islands? THANKS!!!

[@miricoleciona]

Hey Rybonator, i've been binging your videos on your channel here and i was wondering if the experiment you did on the dice worked. did waiting several weeks help with the silicone curing problem?? thanks for all your incredible videos

[@ethanpercival216]

Thank you. So, so much.

[@kylesanson6791]

Oh my god thank you for this. I'd tried all different kinds of supports on the set you put out, and always had drooping issues. Can't wait to run a print of these with the new supports later.

[@Rybonator]

Perfect! Glad we have a solution out there for you now :)

[@VladFTA.]

Thank you so much!

[@damondestructo]

Dice polishing: there are kids pottery wheels. I have one with a 4” plate. I use 4” beveled mirrors with zona squares taped to the top. You can then tape, clip, or use those sticky gel pads, to attach the mirror to the spinning plate. Then when you need to change grit, just swap the mirror.

[@Melos]

The puns! Besides the awesome content, I love your puns!

[@Rybonator]

The puns ARE the content. Everything else is just an excuse for more puns ;)

[@DeathTempler]

For anyone struggling to get the supports straight, go to the "Middle" tab, set "Angle" to .02 Specifically, the first "Angle" value, do not confuse with one on bottom of page.

[@sarini6626]

This was so helpful, thank you!! Quick question: how do you clean up the number engravings?

[@Victorious_Reads]

Can confirm, letting your dice sit for a week or two fixed the cure inhibition issues. A week was enough for me.

[@Rybonator]

Beautiful! Now the experiment will also help to see if it needs to be sanded before or after we wait :)

[@Ch33sePot4to]

Love your videos! I was just wondering what printer settings you use to get your dice goblin to print so perfectly on your d20s. I'm trying to print my own logo but I can not, for the life of me, find an exposure setting that gets the detail!

[@sijtze1996]

Inhibit X is basically just light naptha, which means you could probably also just use the cheaper low boiling point petroleum ether or maybe even turpentine. Haven’t tested it myself yet, but I probably will soon since I’m planning on making some masters. In theory both possible alternatives would be able to basically remove any chemicals that would inhibit the curing of the silicone from the surface of the dice, but we’ll see :p

[@evilkoolade]

Waiting eagerly to find out if waiting will fix the silicone issue

[@andon_RT]

I've had good results with Anycubic Eco resin and molding - A few days of sitting and things seem to mold fine. Water-soluble resin seems to have loads of inhibition issues even after weeks of sitting, even with Inhibit-X, and other things people have tried.

[@corchonga]

Thanks for this tutorial!!! Do you have any suggestions on printing jumbo dice?

[@Traylor0]

After watching your first video, It seemed difficult to order inhibit X so I lightly sprayed my masters with clear spray paint and they seemed to mold fine. Also you can correct a master with a chipped corner by dotting 3d printer resin on it and putting it back under your curing lamp for a few minutes.

[@Rybonator]

That's a great tip! I should definitely give that a shot if my corners go wonky sometime :)

[@thecottageofcuriosities863]

BLESS, thank you so much mine have been turning out so bad

[@grayfaux_]

You can use a traditional uv resin to fill pits and holes. I've done it then you can sand your master smooth.

[@AgenderFordMustang45]

I LOVE d4s that are 4 sides with ends and not a caltrop. The only makers I know of that do d4s that way is crystal caste and NOW The Blue Mimic!

[@hayleydickey2321]

It took a while for me to get a full set of usable masters. I finally get to make my silicone molds going tomorrow (super excited). Unfortunately I'm have trouble 3d printing now that colder weathers setting in. Do you have any suggestions on insulating or keeping 3d printers warmer?

[@katsuninken4458]

@Rybonator another great video. In regards to your experiment you plan, have you considered water curing a few. I have been reading that water curing gives a better result than sun or standard cure box methods. Bonus with water curing is that is faster and does not need as much time under UV light.

[@makewithmegma]

Cool👌👍

[@Rybonator]

No u

[@makewithmegma]

@@Rybonator 👍

[@RPGPlanet]

Hi, I really loved your video. I would like to know which font you used. I will change the D8 and I don't know the name of the source; o) If you can answer me it will be awesome!

[@benjamingrnvold9081]

Man, I love these dice. What font are you using? I'd love to make my own shapes, but fell inlove with this font.

[@Chronogami007]

Love your videos, thanks for them! How do you get the supports to add in fully vertical? I get the connections at angles, and have to try an move the tower to keep it vertical. super time consuming. thanks!

[@cameronfrost3225]

Me too! Have you had any breakthroughs with this issue since your comment? @Rybonator what's your secret to getting them all vertical straight off the bat?

[@snailorgy]

​ @Rybonator really need a video on how you 3d model those masters of yours. especially when it comes to custom sides for the 20 ect. also did I miss the give away of the printer you mentioned in the mass mini printing video or havent you done it yet?

[@bug5654]

Find channel & first thought: Is this the CGP Grey of dice making? Verdict: Well technically no...but yes. Good stuff!

[@squirrelsrus1]

Ordered and downloaded. Thanks. TBH, I bought them because they were pre-supported! lol

[@Ghostplantgames]

This doesn't really apply to this video specifically but could you use a tube of construction silicon to make dice molds? And which type would work best? (Window and door, bath and kitchen etc)

[@KGillis]

I didn’t have inhibitX, and had sanded and let sit my resin dice for a few days. I then used platinum based silicone, and had zero issues. So, you may not need to wait more than a few days

[@Rybonator]

I tried it at a week once and had issues, but I'm sure there are a few factors in how long you gotta wait :)

[@KGillis]

@@Rybonator I think another factor was that I sanded it down to a near glass shine with zona paper as well before letting sit for a week. But, it may also vary a bit depending on what specific tin cure you're using. I use Dragon Skin 20.

[@bubblemum]

I was wondering-is there some way to make resin foam up to look like a pile of bubbles, or of whipped cream, and be able to keep the fluffy look of it, even when hardened?

[@Ulric_PenDo]

So, was there a follow up video in the 2 resin dices left out to see if they'd cure in the silicone without any sprays?

[@otterannihilation3655]

Thank you SO SO SO MUCH for making this available to us!!! It has helped me out immensely. There's just one tiny thing about the Rybonator set that bothers me... I printed it out and the supports worked beautifully, but the 2 on the d6 is not centered. It's more to the left of center. Is there any way I can fix that on my end in the slicer or another program? Thank you!

[@eemikun]

It's possible to import the stl file into Blender and fiddle with the models.

[@tiriaq2607]

I've been checking DIY and other keywords to find how to make a table top sander or polish machine. Do you have any links, maybe make a tutorial or did you just buy yours somewhere? Thank for video I kind of figured this out printing a large sphere in 4 pieces keeping that thin edge down. I will try this thin support thing some time lol

[@embergeos]

Thanks to your videos I’m getting into dice making this winter! I was actually just looking for good dice masters, and most online are expensive, so thanks for reminding me you have a free set! Do you think that an FDM 3D printer would work for things like this or is the small layer size of the SLA necessary?

[@Rybonator]

So an FDM MIGHT work, but you'd have a lot of thick layers, and possible gaps, and need to sand a ton away. I would recommend getting a resin set printed, but hey, necessity breeds invention :)

[@matthewbushey5767]

Just came across this video, and after looking through some of your other I was wondering if you ever did try to do the mold with the dice after letting them sit for a few weeks, cant find a video about it :(