How to Sharpen Brush Cutter Blades

[@TexFarmer]

I like a guy like Jerry that tells it like he sees it, not to push sales, but just what makes good sense.

[@davehoward2791]

Wow, a straight up honest business man. The world needs more like him! If a new set of blades costs $225, he could've said "I'll sharpen them for $110 bucks and save you half the cost of new blades." and he would've made some money off someone who didn't know any better. But what did he say? "Put 'em back on and git 'er done!" What a business ethic. In the South that's what we call a good ol' boy. "He's a businessman but he's a good ol' boy, he'll treat ya right." There is no higher recommendation. 👍

[@TnShooter-is4gr]

If this shop were in TN. I'd go to it. This guy is honest. Gas up and keep going...... 👍

[@hawkenman.549]

I’am somewhat disappointed with Jerry’s answer. If the blades are relatively sharp you can get a better cut and put less strain on you equipment. I leave my cutter attached to the tractor and back it in the garage. Raise it up as high as it will go. Attach a chain fall to it to help hold it up. And I also put a 4 x 4 under it to the floor for added safety. A little 4 inch grinder is all it takes to dress the blades. It makes a world of difference. If the blades are not suppose to be sharpened, then why were they sharpened when they were new?

[@paulmaxwell8851]

I like Jerry. A straight, honest guy. Tells it like it is. My bush hog blades are completely rounded; not a hint of an edge at all. They still destroy saplings and brush, although they sorta tear the grass more than cutting it. I think I will try sharpening them, but at this point I'm probably better off buying new ones. Thanks, Mike and Jerry. Paul in Canada.

[@boots7859]

Before spending a couple hundred, why not just try spending $10-15 on some discs and grind them? Best case, they work almost like or better than new. Worst case you end up buying new. Unless they're bent to hell, all your buying for that couple hundred $$ is an edge.....

[@robertbaumann960]

Hi Mike! Thank you so much for this service you give to all of us on KZbin. God bless you and your channel!!!

[@profdave2861]

For the record, original equipment blades are not made with “cheap steel” and they are certainly never made with cast iron as the interviewee said. He has no idea what he’s talking about in this regard. Original blades are a carefully developed steel alloy, combined with specific heat treatment that creates a combination of reasonable hardness but enough ductility to avoid brittleness. The overall combination is typically referred to as “toughness”. It would be crazy for companies to use junk steel - blades would be breaking off and maiming or killing people - and the lawsuits would follow. There’s a reason why you pay a bit more for these blades than just buying steel bar.

[@bluegrallis]

You can't harden a blade by grinding on it. Heat treating to harden takes a minimum critical temp and quenching to harden. You CAN take the hardness out of a blade by grinding on it. I do agree with the gas up and go, for mowing with a rotary cutter. If I want a finish look to my mowing job, I use a finish mower with fairly sharp blades.

[@jdaddyco]

More Jerry! I love hearing him talk. And he gave great info.

[@RRRZDAD]

Great advice. His voice and laugh is a combination of Chris Farley and Larry the cable guy. I just bought my Ferguson TO35 that came with a bush hog and this is great advice. Thank you

[@laredokarl]

I like his advise. I’ve been taking mine off and using. Burr King on them. I even tried hard facing them once.

[@vclubamp]

The other thing about pulverizing is if you hit saplings and woody stuff, it is a lot safer to tractor tires when it is busted to smithereens. Sharp blades slice that stuff off and create skewers for your expensive tractor tires! Good video, mike.

[@denisewildfortune4058]

Thanks, Mike! I was feelin' a might guilty for not servicing my brush hog blades regularly. I did have to change out a set the first year on my new place because I bent the darn things on a hidden and now removed rock. But now I can sleep better knowing that my current set are just fine.

[@alexbeedie6940]

If your sensible with an angle grinder you will not over heat the metal. It doesn't have to be perfect but creating a smaller cutting surface area makes a huge no matter what your application is.

[@comlbbeau]

Well, that certainly wasn't what I expected to hear. I suppose if your sole brush hog operation is whacking only rough cut, thick material, he may have a point. For my purposes, I cut a range of material from saplings, tall weeds, and heavy brush down to fescue and bahiagrass, and I am able to achieve an almost finish mower look on the areas I mow frequently. In my case it makes sense to remove and reinstall a "sharpened" set of blades every 50 hours or so. Plus, I have the added benefit of not having blades on my cutter that haven't been removed in years, which, as you demonstrated in a previous video, can be problematic. For the record, a "sharp" blade isn't actually sharp, it is just honed to a taper with a cutting edge of about a 1/16".

[@boltactionshooter]

I agree with all but the last part. This myth comes from the idea that new blades come like that, but that does not mean they are sharp. It simply means that these blades are mass produced and they do not take the time to finish shape them. Don't believe me, try cutting some think bahia grass with the 1/16" edge and then try it with them sharpened to a fine edge and you will see the differance:)

[@Rattlerjake1]

@@boltactionshooter - Cutting "thick" bahia with a bushhog is because you're to cheap to buy a finish mower and do it right! They're nicknamed "bush hogs" for a reason - bush hog was a manufacturer who made the rotary cutter for mowing down thick overgrown areas of high weeds and thick brush, NOT GRASS!

[@boots7859]

@@Rattlerjake1 When I think of brush hog, I think of the rentals we all use to clear scrub, 1-2" saplings, etc. Even a basic edge will help immensely. I understand not grinding these to a super edge where you are taking too much material away from a tool that is part battering ram, however seems the lazy is strong for what simple maint. can improve cut quality and speed. No idea about using these for standard grass.

[@ritterjon]

Didn’t think about the heat treating aspect of a brush hog blade. Makes sense, a blunt edge works and deflects well. Thanks for the honesty Jerry.

[@chucklynch8397]

Mower or rotary cutter blades do need to be filed now and again in order to ensure that they have proper weight distribution for balance, not to actually make them sharper. To avoid heat treating, there are Mill Bastard files made specifically for sharpening or honing blades. I have a nice Nicholson 18" Mill Bastard that will remove material by hand without heating, blades are then weighed for balance. Just think of a ceiling fan that started missing material...they'd get all kattywompus.

[@larrymoore6640]

The last few videos on brushogs were very educational. I do however think there is a point that the blades need to be trimmed up.

[@jasonsechrist1]

Get some norton sanding pads, they take off much more material than those discs that most people use and they don't overheat. I'm pretty sure that you can't heat treat metal by grinding on it, the metal has to get bright red before it gets heat treated. I've sharpened blades for years and they cut great and you use less diesel.

[@semco72057]

My blades have been on my unit since I got it new and that was in 2002. They have been sharpened twice and probably need to be sharpened now. I plan on taking them off since they was not taken off the previous times they was sharpened and need to be sharpened good with a file since I want them to last as long as possible.

[@JT-qf4it]

It takes more power to swing a blunt blade than a sharp one. I touch mine up but not to a knife edge. Leave a little meat on the edge.

[@rodneywroten2994]

I know if my blades are not sharp it effects the power in a compact tractor

[@billyg6648]

Great video Bush Hogs don't have thin blades for cutting or sharpening

[@gulfportflamefighter4545]

Why are they sharp when then are new then

[@boots7859]

This was funny, sort of good ol'boy. I'm surprised YT hasn't taken it down due to someone getting triggered. However if you want to get the most out of your investment, a little PMCS sure wouldn't hurt. I would read up on cutting angles more and then at least occasionally pull the blades of and do a light grind to get an edge that is similar to factory. Simply grind and cool part in water, and grind some more. You can find inexpensive grinding stands for $50 that will pay for themselves after 2-3 sharpenings compared to paying $15/20 to the local shop. Set up your rest to get the angle you want and should be pretty simple, as long as you take small bites and keep dunking it in water.

[@thomasleahy3767]

That guy is the man. Tell me what I need, not what you want to sell me!

[@Lanninglongarmmowing]

What about filling in the nick's and dings with a welder?

[@davem5370]

While they do not need regular sharpening, balancing is very important. Unbalanced blades lead to excessive vibration which leads to a damaged cutter and possibly tractor.

[@bhstovall]

I have to say that I somewhat disagree. If your blades are all dented & dinged up it just makes sense to dress them up a bit. Not totally sharp like a lawnmower blade, but enough to at least get a smoother cut. I have worked on lawnmowers all my life, & even owned my own shop for a while & I never sharpened a blade from the flat side! I can't imagine trying to file that much material down on a mower blade, much less on a bush hog blade. I also disagree with the gentleman's opinion on the blade material. They are made from a high carbon steel & hardened and tempered to withstand the centrifugal force & shock of hitting rocks, stumps etc. If they were made of regular mild steel, they would bend, & break very easily. I sharpen mine with a hand grinder at the start of the season. I keep a spray bottle of water with me to keep the blades cool, and NEVER EVER let them start turning blue, that WILL ruin the temper of them and they will never stay sharp.

[@timothyczapranski8254]

I agree with Jerry but have two suggestions for folks who are cutting pastures or food plots and want clean cuts with less plant tip damage. Sharpen them but not razor sharp.....I put them in a vice and use a hand file that is flat on one side and quarter round on the other and I oil it with cutting oil and wire brush my file often. It takes me around 30 minutes a blade to sharpen damaged blades - and like Jerry said, I finish the edge on the back side of the cutting edge. This avoids the heat issues of a grinder and is not that hard to do. Then I make sure they are exactly the same weight when finished, even if I have to take off good metal. This results in balanced blades that cause less stress on the cutter spindle and seals. If you engage the PTO and get up to PTO speed and have wobble.....it is stressing the equipment somewhere and that is not good.

[@rikertvonfulton16]

What do you weigh them on

[@michaelstewart9241]

Tractor Mike, What happened? You certainly did not do your homework on this guy before interviewing. A few of the things he said made sense, however, yea, knock the burrs off on both sides, but at least keep an edge on your blades or you're going to go through some pins. The blades came sharpened didn't they? Do a video on how the professionals sharpen, to give your viewers an in-depth look on the correct way! Something your viewers can translate to their workshop.

[@davidgregg2778]

I agree .

[@brucebehner4142]

2 points of thoughts on sharpening or not, if you're using it for a finished cut in pastures or waterways, sharpen your blades. If you're really just clearing brush ALL THE TIME, then leave them be but I dont know anybody that just uses a brush hog strictly for brush.

[@_AndromedaGalaxy_]

Well thats about all I got on my 19acres is just grass. Not even a single tree. Just flat ground covered in grass. So I do have to think about how I want it to look. Dont have a finish mower to pull behind the tractor nor can I afford one so the brush cutter will have to serve as my finish mower.

[@KMoran-cw2fd]

Thanks Mike, very instuctive. One less thing to worry about!

[@deelee6786]

just use a hand file...duh. and yes a sharp blade does work better. your mower wont stall over really long grass. if you grind use cold water often

[@perry9492]

They need sharpening and balancing. Sharper the blade the more it cuts with less effort. Also when they get worn the are not as heavy so they don't cut through limbs and small trees as well. I put a new set on an old cutter and it was like a new machine.

[@GrampiesWorkshop]

Interesting comments. I would think sharpening the blades would make sense, but there I go thinking again!!!

[@Gordon_L]

The blades should have a chisel cutting edge , sharp ( not like a knife ) blades will give a better finish , less chance of introducing disease to the paddock and operate with less load on the cutter gearbox , pto drive and clutch . Scrubby land with saplings etc. are better cut with a flail mower or pushed with a blade first . If pasture is being cut for baling , the cleaner the cut the better so all the high protein seed is not smashed off prior to windrowing . Logic .

[@John-ce1lk]

Totally agree with the chisel edge. My Land Pride mentions leave a 1/16th thick leading edge (don't sharpen to razor edge). Agree with the disease statement too. Know my blades need sharpening when the tips of my orchard grass pasture are ripped/ragged and turn brown in a few days (prone to disease and growing recovery time takes much longer).

[@mH8675309]

Do I understand right? You use a brush hog to cut material that you will rake and bale?

[@coypatton3160]

I have had several brush cutters over the last 20 years. I have replaced 1 bolt in all those years. Why, it came loose shortly after I bought it used and I could not find all the parts. I have never replaced a blade or sharpened one.

[@coldspring624]

I agree......but I still pull em and rotate sets just to suit myself

[@gaylegordon5797]

whew! I feel a lot less concerned about the blades on the bush hog now.

[@FLXLife]

This guy is great!

[@hiperstang]

I have to strongly disagree with Jerry. Even if I were to only mow my own fields I would want sharp blades. Last year I mowed 41 fields and if I never sharpened my blades I know of at least two people that probably wouldn't have me back. I was mowing a grassy field one time and I wasn't happy with the way it was coming out so I changed the blades out for a couple that I had sharpened and the difference was dramatic. The rest of the field looked almost as nice as a lawn. Different grasses mow differently so sharp blades are a must if you're mowing other peoples fields for money. I do a couple of fields that are very visible from the main road so it's important to me to have them looking as nice as I can, word gets around. As far as welding the edges, I have a set on my 6' model 286 Bush Hog now that I welded up this past winter and so far they're working just fine, and I've hit a couple of pretty good sized rocks too. I used a 110v Lincoln Mig welder to run a couple of passes on them and they sharpened up beautifully with a 9" disk grinder. The wire size was .030 and is comparable to a 7018 stick weld. So far so good. If I'm going to mow a heavily brushy field than yes, I'd put on some blades that are a little beat up. The plus side of changing your blades from time to time is that it keeps the blade bolts easier to remove. I carry a 3/4" drive ratchet and socket with me and a brass punch to remove them. I think the brass would be easier on the threads if I got a little wild with the 2Lb hammer. Usually it only takes a couple of tunks with the hammer and punch and the bolts pop right out. Of course every so often I wire brush the threads and bosses to get any gunk off them and put some anti seize on them so that helps too. I really enjoy your videos Mike so keep up the good work.

[@justinfranks3211]

I’m with you on this one. I run commercially as well and I keep a set of sharp and more blunt blades. I swap out when I’m doing fields and yards to my sharp set and use the blunt for deer leases and other clearing jobs. I’m sure I’d lose jobs left and right if I used the blunt ones on the grass fields and large yards.

[@truenorthhaven7676]

but its a brush hog, sounds like your mowing grass... he said if your mowing grass yes sharp is good but brush hogs were not designed to mow grass, finishing mower is. So what he is saying is correct, you just use the brush hog as a finishing mower which technically thats not what its intended purpose is. cheers

[@wsfd4321]

Mike, I don't like what Jerry had to say much at all! You answer depends on what you're cutting, you machine speed while cutting, and your expectations of the finished product. If you slashing shooting lanes on hunting land, dull blades is fine. I like to sharpen mine at least once per year. I don't put a razor finish on, but like someone else said, at least get the edge down to 1/16" thick. I actually take mine off and put them in a vise. Grind 90 degrees on the edge until the minor dings are ground down and you have a basically straight edge again. Then turn your grinder to the factory edge angle and grind evenly until the desired edge is made. If you're that worried about heat....quit and work on the other one for a bit. I'll spend perhaps 5 minutes grinding each blade, tops.....IF you do it when they need it. I can use my cutter where a finish mower might work better, but it'll give good results in 30" grass while moving full throttle in 3rd gear......and 4th if it's not to thick. Sharp blades make the work less strainuaous on the machine, period. To maximize the life of a sharpening, I first mow where I'm least likely to get into rock and mow GRASS. I safe the nasty bushhogging to later in the life of the blades. Make SURE to put some anti-seize compount all around the bolts and where the blades made to the stump jumper so they swing very freely!! And tighten the bolts to spec, which might be 500-700 ft/lbs. The biggest challange I find is staying out of the darn rocks....mowing higher in high rock threat areas really helps too.

[@williamkinney8435]

Ther ya go. My land is ryegrass sand grass wild flowers uou gata go slow you might jump a deer

[@davidlees4900]

sounds like sound advice, I don't think Mike wanted to hear that advice

[@45th]

Some people just hit things they shouldn’t. Sharpen the blades! It saves fuel, horsepower and wear and tear on your gearbox and tractor. If they are in bad shape replace them. Have you ever looked at a new set? They are sharp. Keep them that way! It don’t take long.

[@chevyon37s]

People get way too hung up on blade sharpness of rotary cutters. Simple as that. Let your blades be rounded over the width of your pinky finger, it’ll still cut. Heck even like that in thin pasture grass it’ll give a good clean cut as long as you’re not going too fast.

[@williamkinney8435]

In 3 foot grass and weeds you need sharp blades or you ed up tearing thegrass tnsted of cutting it and the front of the brueh hog eill dig into the dirt the wheel onthe back will pickup with. Ronded blades you will leave a wind row of grassann youl hav to mow it twice tallgrass is different to mow

[@williamkinney8435]

Icut tall first in 1stgear that way the tractor dosent take a beating i hat cutting tall grass 2to3 ft it beats the crap out of the setup go slow 1st pass 2nd pass3hrd or 4th. How hard is it to sharpen your blades. Save time money and fuel

[@kensayre3880]

Love it. One more job I do not have to do.

[@theopautsch2311]

How is sharpening disc mower blades ?

[@TractorMike]

Those definitely need to be sharp, just like a lawn mower blade.

[@richardredcastle7911]

Yep, I agree. My blades are rounded over and still do the job they did 20 years ago. They're called 'slashers' in Australia because that's what they do....Slash the grass. not cut it.

[@stevemartinez6757]

Good information to know.

[@earlyriser8998]

Excellent video. Need some balance maybe.

[@tonylander3512]

Geez I'm a contractor, and those blades are just fine and dandy, I just replace mine they don't cost that much

[@t.s.tractorworkstrickland5828]

Mike your guest must have been smoking crack lol You need to keep your brush cutter blades sharp so it don't eat up a lot of horsepower and burn up extra fuel I use one set of blades per year it's about 400 hours of cutting If I never sharpen the blades I would use twice the fuel in twice the time. You can cut a whole lot faster with sharp blades If he's had the same set of blades for 20 years he's fishing too much

[@newsnowwyoming1757]

LMAO.... Expert: Do not sharpen the blade, it weakens it. Tractor Mike: If I were to sharpen it.... Expert: Don't do it, here are 50 reasons why TM: Here are five other ways I am going to ask the same question, that you will not answer because your only answer is: IT IS A BAD IDEA. If you don't trust the expert, shop for another one, don't try to force a answer out of him you like. LOL

[@boots7859]

The expert seems like a nice guy and all, I'd go to his store. However he seems very set on his fishing time, and simple maint. that would make a mower more efficient, less time consuming, and give a better end product just seems to be a waste of time by his reckoning. Even experts are wrong, or disagree with others all the time.

[@build-fabricate-maintain3915]

Don't believe this commentary! Dull blades are harder on the gearbox and the tractor. When sharpening blades, you should always take care not to overheat it near the edge.

[@flhusa1]

yep you sure can cut 2" trees . for a while and then you can replace you gear box. no cutting trees with the old slasher

[@EastToWest3030]

A rare Yes on Prop A sign.

[@kkers42]

Terrible advise, bush hogg blades need to have a bit of a edge to cut the brush. Think about it what cuts shrubs a Louisville Slugger or a Machete!?! The edge does NOT need to be the same as a finish mower, and a chunk out is not a major issue however never sharpening will cause the blade to become rounded like a baseball bat...

[@sepresley1]

sharp blades makes the tractor work less

[@caseyreep1794]

Just plain wrong. Sharp blades cause less stress on other parts of the machine. It does not need to be knife sharp, but I have seen some guys that let their blades round over so much that they look like the handle of a cresant wrench. Trying to brush a field with dull blades like that puts alot more stress on the entire rig, the gear box, slip disc, blade carriers etc. You will end up needing to spend alot more on parts or replace the equipment alot sooner. But I am not just cutting grass, if my mower is rated for 3" saplings you can bet I am cutting 3"+ sampling.

[@johnsteed265]

This guy makes absolutely no sense at all What a dope! Of course you should sharpen your blades - with an angle grinder!

[@iwantosavemoney]

Well that was the easiest fix ever just leave it alone

[@mikelatham146]

Spoken like a true Ozark American lol

[@deelee6786]

this is a lawn mower blade......

[@donboychuk9278]

doh!

[@jphickory522]

My type of guy. Independent and practical thinker telling it like it is. My rotary cutter blades are so dull almost hard to tell what side is the cutting edge. Still cuts my fields perfectly fine. Some people over think things.... if it’s working just leave it alone.

[@EastToWest3030]

Unscripted.