How to sharpen your diamond blade

[@kramerkrame1]

This should have a lot more views considering the savings it represents! For whatever reason I never threw out 2 old blades that were bogging down in granite countertop material. Tin Oxide did nothing, same with an old grinding wheel. I spent 15 minutes doing this to both of them, spalpped them on, and it cuts like butter. This is an amazing trick, now im kicking myself for shilling out 90 apice for new blades without doing better research... Great video, shame on the youtube algorythm for not recomending it sooner!

[@ShawnGerber]

Worked extremely well. It's videos like this that save me time and buckets of money. Greatly appreciated.

[@HighlandParkLapidary]

Glad it helped, Shawn!

[@chuky151]

I'm making a brick oven and this just saved me hundreds in new blades! Thanks a bunch.

[@HighlandParkLapidary]

You are welcome. Let us know if you need anything else.

[@stantonhennigh2284]

It is amazing how well this works if you do just like he says.

[@Aphony66]

The only dressing method that works! I have tried all the rest on my Norton Turbo blade, but this one actually works. thank you for showing me this.

[@HighlandParkLapidary]

You're welcome.

[@cinciao5692]

Thank you for your video! Does this technique work with sintered blades as well?

[@jimhutchison3435]

It does

[@staceycatron7401]

This technique works! Thanks HPL!

[@cgpmachining]

I always just used an aluminum oxide wheel held at a 45 degree angle with both the wheel and cutting blade spinning. This is exactly how the blade manufactureres grind their blades after brazing the segments on. The idea is to remove a few thousandths of an inch of bond to expose the diamonds. The only way I found over 20 years to make a blade cut like new.

[@AgateAngler]

I'm excited to try this on my little tile saw!

[@JoAnnRussell-Wiley]

can i use water with this blade

[@HighlandParkLapidary]

Yes, but we recommend draining your saw so the blade is not sitting in water, or it will rust.

[@sbdude52]

Your view on the file hitting the saw blade is so close could not actually see the file hitting the blade and at what angle

[@NomadWishingStone]

If I'm getting 1 inch saw marks at the start of my cut will this help with that or is that a stability solution?

[@JohnRowland-bl9uv]

usually that is a problem with the flanges being damaged or the blade being bent.

[@NomadWishingStone]

@JohnRowland-bl9uv Brand new blade, so I'll check out the flanges when I'm in the shop. Are these the flanges against the blade or on the arbor somewhere near the pulley side? Couldn't get the bolt holding the blade off so coming back after Christmas with Kroil Oil.

[@JohnRowland-bl9uv]

@@NomadWishingStone its the two flanges on either side of the blade. If they are damaged from a rock rubbing them or if there is dirt under the flanges then it can cause the blade to wobble, and this wobble will leave the saw marks you are describing.

[@electrichellion5946]

I’ve heard of this method but wasn’t quite sure how the strike the blade with the file nor for how long to strike the cutting face. - Thanks for the tip.

[@williamgolden5500]

How do you sharpen the agate eater blade ????

[@HighlandParkLapidary]

Same way using the bastard file as we showed in this video. It works great and doesn't reduce the life of your blade.

[@produceman13]

Will this work on smaller, thinner notch rimmed blades like an MK 303?

[@HighlandParkLapidary]

Hi, Produceman13 this will also work for smaller, thinner notched rimmed blades as long it works with diamond blades because this technique reexposes the diamonds on the blade. This is due to the blade becoming polished over time as the blade cuts through rock after rock. Hope this helps you to keep on cutting!!

[@produceman13]

@@HighlandParkLapidary It makes sense. I also use a file on the 3,000 resin wheel to make thin cuts across the surface horizontally. I think that tiny rock particles get flushed out in these hand cut channels. Otherwise the particles collect around the cab and scratch the hell out of it via hydroplaning. This happens a lot when a resin wheel gets too smooth. So I rough it up a bit. Thanks for the tip!

[@makingitmatters9587]

excellent tip

[@TimMcCormack-wt2cz]

Does this work for a sintered blade?

[@JohnRowland-bl9uv]

yes

[@sherrys.2259]

Do you do that with the thin line too?

[@shermanrowland]

Yes but you will use a bit less force than with the segmented blades. When cutting hard material with a ThinLine, be sure to sharpen more often.

[@gantz4u]

I tried it on a 4" angle grinders tile blade and,fingering comparing it with new it feels sharper than new now. It could have just restored life into this 4" blade.

[@59steveo]

What is the best cutting oil to use? I have a Highland Park saw that I inherited from my Grandfather in 1965 - and it was old then. He used a diesel fuel mixture. I used what was left until it was gone, but all of my clothes would stink afterward lol

[@JohnRowland-bl9uv]

Try our Highland Park Cool Cut Oil, we selected and tested it to achieve optimal performance.

[@trevormcfirbisigh787]

I have a 900 stone saw. Would this method work on my blade. Thanks

[@JohnRowland-bl9uv]

yep

[@gjakewin10]

John first thank you for the video. Second do you use this same technique for your green line agate eater blades?

[@janicecramer5792]

And for the thin line blades? Same process?

[@johnrowland4655]

@@janicecramer5792 Gjake Win, yes we use the same technique for both.

[@hugehelp]

got a sub! Thanks!

[@sbdude52]

Could not see on the video how you are hitting the blade with the file

[@dimplezdimples8451]

the cameraman didn't know what he was doing 😅

[@JohnRowland-bl9uv]

I do it with the file tapping the blade perpendicular to the edge of the blade. The serrations on the file do all the work to get the diamonds sharp again.

[@EDLaw-wo5it]

Thanks.

[@HighlandParkLapidary]

No biggies!

[@electrichellion5946]

If the blade is cutting towards one side then binds do you need to bastard file the opposite edge of the blade more than the side in which it is cutting towards?

[@JohnRowland-bl9uv]

That sounds like you are describing a dished blade. Once the blade is dished then it will not cut straight. There are methods to re-tension the blade and remove the dish but there are very few people who are knowledgeable and offer this as a service.

[@davebitton6624]

Genius 🤘

[@IFIXCASTLES]

Gonna try it!

[@davidhastings7714]

does this work on greenline agate eater type blade ?

[@HighlandParkLapidary]

Hi David, yes. This will work on any type of blades.

[@felaghumra]

Can this be done to dress a blade as well?

[@JohnRowland-bl9uv]

yes

[@ladyjustice6110]

Brilliant

[@HighlandParkLapidary]

Thank you!

[@JB-yk2zj]

It would have helped me if the camera was actually on you striking the blade. I could have had a better idea of how hard and at what angle you were striking the blade.

[@electrichellion5946]

Joy Baisden - exactly

[@electrichellion5946]

Joy Baisden - my thoughts exactly! I’ve tried it but didn’t see results. Maybe I didn’t hit the blade edge properly or perhaps not hard enough.

[@electrichellion5946]

Why not show us this method on an actual blade needing this technique? Better able to see the results.

[@HighlandParkLapidary]

When we get a chance we'll do that so you can see how it changes it. Thank you.

[@electrichellion5946]

Highland Park Lapidary - Sweet. I’ve got four blades needing this treatment and it appears that I’m not doing something correctly. Until I figure it out all my saws are down or able to only make small slabs.

[@jimv.661]

Since you didn't show what you were doing, I have not idea how you sharpened the blade. Sounded like you were beating on the side of the machine.

[@HighlandParkLapidary]

Hey, Jim! Give us a call at [phone]. Lets talk things!

[@In_Case_Im_Fake]

your captions say "ping the blade" but shouldn't it say "peen the blade"?

[@JohnRowland-bl9uv]

yes, but I chose ping so people dont get the idea to hit the blade too hard. ;)