How to shop for vintage Levi’s 501 jeans

[@drwisdom1]

I have been wearing 501s for over 50 years and have a huge collection of vintage Levi's. I liked this video and it was a good presentation. I think buyers of used vintage 501 jeans should prefer buying darker 501s. Back when I was young all Levi's came dark blue and you had to fade them yourself through washing and wearing. But when jeans became popular they started making them pre-faded and today they add phony wear lines. But that makes the fade look fake. Then Levi's started using poor quality cotton and they now have to pre-fade to cover up its inability to fade beautifully. When you buy a darker vintage 501 that just means it is going to have a longer life, it will be softer, and more of the fade will be due to you owning them. There is nothing special about big "E" except that it indicates the jeans/jackets are now 50+ years old. It is the age and the jeans that makes them valuable, not the big E which is just an indicator. It used to be 501s were made from sheets of denim. The cotton maker used the "selvedge" so the edge didn't unravel which Levi's would strategically place inside of the leg outseam. The "redline" indicated the weight of the denim. There were other weights and line colors but the cotton weight Levi's used happened to be red. Levi's changed to using huge rolls of denim in the early 1980s ending the redline era. When that happened we didn't notice its disappearance. It wasn't until the 1990s that redlines became valuable and were used for dating. Redlines are a peculiar status symbol and you should get longer 501s and cuff them so people know they are redlines. The fit and materials of Levi's 501s have evolved through the years. I think 501s from 1994-1999 are the very best. They used the best cotton denim and have the best fit for men because the waist is lower. But I definitely understand why Ms. Ahooja likes 1980s and before 501s because the higher waist is more complementary for women. I despise 501s that have been hemmed because they never look as good as the Levi's hem. If my jeans are too long I use them as cuffed jeans. So I was pleased to find out there is a shortening technique that keeps the original hem. I quit buying 501s about 20 years ago because of my disappointment with 501s made after that. Luckily I had accumulated a lifetime supply of brand new with tags vintage 501s from before 2000. When my 501s get faded but still darker than those in this video, I wash them, fold them, and stick them in Rubbermaid storage bins. So I have a few dozen vintage 501s size 36x32 that this video made me think I should sell on Etsy.

[@NeelamAhooja]

So happy to read this!! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with me (and my audience) ☺️. Love my vintage Levi’s so much. Reminds me of the good old days when quality was more important than quantity. 🖤

[@janetteehan8230]

I have to say I am with Neelam and much prefer the fit and fabric of 501 Levis from the 80s. They get a chef's kiss from me. These jeans are mid rise and hang perfectly because the outseam is straight from waist to ankle- no taper. here's a reason why 80s 501s fetch $300 or more on the second hand market. They are simply the best. My least favorite vintage Levis were made after 1995- that's when I noticed a big change in quality and design. Beware of women's 501s and student fits from any decade-they are just not the same fit. And remember no good pair of Levis will have that single faded crease mark running down one of the legs- you will recognize it when you see it!

[@drwisdom1]

@@janetteehan8230 Really? I have about two dozen 1980s 501s in storage that are still dark blue. If your estimate is true that would make them worth over $6000. They are 36 inch waist and 32 to 34 inch inseam (after shrinkage) which may not be as popular as smaller sizes.

[@xxxxSOSEXYxxxx]

So you are the one hoarding all the perfect jeans!!!!

[@jadktimeless2831]

Best Decade Of Levis 501 Is 1987 To 1994 In

[@funtimefranky]

I’ve just dug out my 501 pre 1971’s, I’ve had them 37 years and bought them from a shop called American Classics on the Kings Road London which was a real cool shop that sold vintage clothes. I also have a really cool 501 bra top pre 1971 which I bought off an independent designer 35 years ago in Kensington, London. My days for bra tops are over so I think I’ll sell them and earn som cash!

[@Lucretciela]

I remember buying 501's in the 70's, and we would ALWAYS purchase them in that completely unworn, raw state, totally stiff & hard fabric, REALLY dark, dark blue. We'd have to buy two sizes up, and they wouldn't fit right at first, too big around the waist and too stiff and tight around the but, totally shapeless, and you were expected to wash them over & over & over & over multiple times before the first wear just to get them a tiny bit fitted. The wash water would be indigo blue. I mean you could dye a white blouse blue just by washing it with your raw 501's. But as the months would go by, those 501's would completely shape to your body like a charm. Give it a year or so, and they would start to look like the washed out jeans Neelam is showing here. Ya know... I'm not even sure if you could even purchase new 501's back then in a washed out fabric state. I actually don't think you could. If anyone remembers, let me know. Nothing hotter than a guy in his fitted 501's and a white t-shirt. 501'S are BY FAR the hippest jeans you can find.

[@sandybrown9410]

Just came across this today and really appreciate the detailed suggestions. I am now OBSESSED with finding some. :)

[@doris1998]

I’m 5’2” as well and it’s always nerve-wracking deciding on the length of my Levi’s. Thanks for this video. Loved it

[@NeelamAhooja]

You’re so welcome!

[@sf2explus184]

Just a bit of advice on hemming. There isn't any need for reattaching the original hem. just have them hemmed using a union special. usually high end denim specialists have it and won't cost more than 25 dollars, this way it's done to factory standards and you will still get the roping effect over time or as soon as you wash them.

[@lovemesomelux4375]

What a great video. Always wanted to add vintage Levi's to my collection! Now, I will go in with knowledge! Thank you!

[@sf2explus184]

mens orange tab 618 cut in the early 90's were made so well

[@kbsyoutube3304]

Thank you so much for the European hem recommendation. I recently thrifted a pair of black 550’s that were a 36 inch inseam. I had them altered to a 31 inch inseam with the original hem and they look amazing. It is a little thicker but they still look great.

[@NeelamAhooja]

Happy to hear this! It makes a difference :)

[@michelebreen1735]

Thank you for your insight & your tips to shop on Etsy. I’m a vintage Levi’s lover as well!

[@claudettepacio4634]

Thanks for this video, didn’t realize how valuable and beautifully made Levi’s jeans are. As I have no patience to hunt for vintage pieces, what are the current Levi’s styles (or other non Levi’s dupes) that you think are comparable to the vintage ones you mentioned? Maybe another video if you have the time ? Thanks again!

[@Maya38438]

Hi ❤ you have a great info. I wish you tried all of them. It shows us the difference from a far, the back side and the fit.

[@ashleyalverson2858]

Actually, I’d love to know where your sandals and shirt are from!!! 💜 your style, and you are absolutely beautiful! Thanks for the informative video!

[@NeelamAhooja]

Thank you SO much! Shirt is old Uniqlo I believe and sandals are old velvet Constance by The Row.

[@kimcorpuz1932]

I love your collection so much! They all look amazing!

[@NeelamAhooja]

Thank you ☺️

[@sarahterry2140]

Thank you, this was superb and good to know that Etsy is the source as I doubt I would have looked there otherwise.

[@vilmasclosett]

What a great and informative video! I relate to age affecting how or what we feel is comfortable. I have 5 ribcage jeans in size 29w and now I don’t love the size of the look of figure hugging jeans. I’m starting to love 501s and I think I’ll be selling all of my ribcage and replace them with 501s

[@NeelamAhooja]

I get that- I want things loose and comfortable and age has a lot to do with it for sure!

[@SaraBiancaBentley]

Great video! Love your collection and your style, Neelam!

[@NeelamAhooja]

Thank you!

[@jujuba9277]

Thank you! O hope for more videos from you! It’s so much good information! ❤🎉

[@christiestrickland3446]

Please do a try-on video of your Levis collection.

[@JulieAnnBasile]

Nice to meet you here. Beautiful review and I love your white shirt. How about a white shirt review ? Can’t get enough. I remember -972 Levi’s. I kept old khakis amd some 7 for mankind 1990 high waist bell bottoms. Hmm. Size 26 is a squeeze these days. Lovely work here. Thank you!!! Julie

[@NeelamAhooja]

Thank you Julie! A white shirt review would be great, will add this to my growing list of videos. So many I want to get to. ☺️

[@gigantefan]

A white shirt review would be great. I agree!! I love vintage 501s too. I find I go up 3 inches from my other jeans for the best fit. They do shrink differently though so a seller actually measures jeans for you is key. Thanks for the review.

[@NGS93]

Thank you Ms. Ahooja for one of the best vintage Levis videos on youtube. I am now trying to build a little vintage denim rotation thanks to your expertise. One question - are any of your pairs orange tabs? If so, how do you rank them compared to the vintage red tabs? Thanks again for your awesome video!

[@Bg-cr2vx]

Loving your channel; could you do a video on quality t shirts? I’m always ending up in the men’s tees🌹🌹🌹

[@NeelamAhooja]

Yup! I’ll do that soon.

[@suttenwasserman7517]

Can you tell me what shirt you are wearing? Love it!

[@rebeccahowe5607]

I believe one out of every 10 pairs of Levi’s have the blank red tag with just the R trade mark.

[@Samantha-gt1hh]

Another amazing clothing haul...I also would love to meet my style guru one day...keep posting...

[@NeelamAhooja]

☺️🙏🏼

[@faithreyes8797]

Love your video and jean tips!! Thanks:)

[@mince1423]

I would’ve loved a try on 😢

[@NeelamAhooja]

Great suggestion! Maybe for a follow up video I could do a try on with the pairs I have and show how they fit.

[@Hellasmella10]

Yes please!

[@oliviaglass3843]

A very intelligent overview 😊

[@cathyboyce9589]

Great Video!! Thanks for posting.

[@Hey19834]

That was very interesting and helpful, thank you!

[@NeelamAhooja]

You’re so welcome!

[@mollysfamily914]

I'm glad you're still active in the comments of this video!! Sorry for another size question, but here goes... in today's sizing, i am a true 23" waist, (00, xxs). I tried on the 501 in size 23 at the levi store today and the waist was BIG, like 25", not 23 at all! 😫 right now, I am looking at a vintage pair red label tagged 24w and the seller says they fit a 22-23. Is this a safe pair to purchase? Would these vintage 24w truly fit me smaller than the modern 23w that levi carries today? Thank you for all your knowledge

[@NeelamAhooja]

Do they tell you the exact measurements? I don’t pay attention to the “they fit a size…”, focus on the measurements of the item.

[@daphnegrisham753]

I especially enjoyed this video, and I enjoy all of your uploads! I’d love to hear more about your style taste outside of The Row - do you follow/wear labels like Lamaire and Khaite as well? I feel like they overlap some with the understated elegance and timeless luxury of The Row. Would also very much love to know if there are other vintage labels or designs that you love and seek out as much as vintage Levi’s 501s!

[@NeelamAhooja]

Thanks Daphne, I do like both Lemaire and Khaite. However, I tend to stick to the more classic lines like Raey, La Collection, COS, etc. I do have some very old pieces that I’m having a hard time letting go of - esp from Prada and Dries Van Noten. Rick Owens, Haider Ackermann, and others as well. Are you on Instagram at all? My style has evolved over time, when I stick to one designer it makes things much easier for me.

[@ninadavies4127]

Excellent! I Have a pair of the darker Levis with the blank red tab, just the R on it. Bought off Depop, they'd left the charity shop tag on, £6.99 ..😁

[@NeelamAhooja]

Excellent score!

[@ninadavies4127]

@@NeelamAhooja Thanks for such a great video..vintage Levis are simply the best 👌🏼

[@joypolevoy8165]

Hi!! Thanks for this!! I’m about your age and am also a size 25 (or so!). I have been looking for vintage denim and wasting my money on expensive brands but really trying to get the vintage Levi’s look!! So - thanks for this video and for the links on Etsy. Any advice on measurements? U mentioned going for a size 27 or 28, what other measurements can u recommend? Thx in advance. U have great style xo

[@NeelamAhooja]

I’d pay attention to the inseam, hips, and waist. Contact the sellers and confirm measurements as well. They’re all pretty good at responding. :)

[@verityh]

Really insightful and clear, thank you!

[@NeelamAhooja]

Happy you enjoyed it ☺️

[@wzrdreams]

Levi's still make selvedge denim jeans. They are in the men's premium or reissue lines. Selvedge denim doesn't wear any better than non selvedge denim of the same fiber content and weave. The only thing about selvedge denim is that the selvedge edge is visible because they were cut with the outside seams along the edge. The 501's for women are not size inclusive because the largest missy size is a 32 waist. I last fit into a 32 when I was a teenager. The plus size version of the 501 has spandex (yuck) and they are cropped which doesn't work if you don't want cropped or are tall.

[@vivianreynoso8780]

I love your advice. I’m originally a size 12/31 in jeans but I recently purchased the Levi’s 501 90’s & am so nervous if they’re going to fit good. Any tips on if they’re true to size or if run big or small ? Also I was wondering where your sandals are from ? They’re gorgeous ! 🖤

[@NeelamAhooja]

Sorry, I missed this comment. Did you find the 90s jeans? These sandals are the Constance by The Row :)

[@louisehodgson9923]

Hi Neelam, I like the relaxed way your Vintage Levi's fit on you. In terms of your own measurements, how do you choose the pair you will buy? Do you try and match your own measurements exactly or do you focus on adding an extra inch or so? E.G Waist, low hip, thigh, rise, inseam? Do you have any tips?

[@NeelamAhooja]

Hi Louise, that’s a great question. I take measurements of my favourite jeans and compare to what the seller has posted. Usually I take a size or two up from my usual (for vintage that’s best).

[@louisehodgson9923]

Thank you

[@heatherstarbird8627]

Thank you Neelam, What year is the cutoff between the 501s you prefer and the 'contemporary' 501s you mentioned?

[@NeelamAhooja]

That changes all the time actually, right now I favour more 90s vibe and some 80s (higher waist). I toggle between the periods.

[@nataliekorcheva9545]

Thank you Neelam! ❤️

[@sophiaelayne9984]

I've been wearing the men's 501's since '82. I'm very "hip-ey" and I like the way the pockets look on my backside. Btw I adore you....such a beautiful woman.

[@sf2explus184]

Sadly the newer mass market 501's have gone back to using big E. unless it's LVC line the rest are crap 501's or if someone is lucky enough to get their hands on original vintage.

[@wiesje.weeber]

I loved this, thank you so much! Are the Vintage 501's 'uni-sex?-

[@NeelamAhooja]

Happy you enjoyed it! They are women’s 501 😊

[@roseykyron5045]

Thank you great information

[@wellahartig3477]

Nili, I’m freaking out to which pair to buy on Etsy there are so many. I live ln Costa Rica so I will have them sent to California and than have to get them at Christmas so not easy for me! I just bought a Mousey vintage in 25 mid Rise!... Should I just go for it? Thank you Big help what should I expect to pay?

[@NeelamAhooja]

Hi :) Usually around $200-300 USD is a fair price for a good pair of vintage Levi’s

[@annietolson5726]

Hi! What is the rise of the jeans you are wearing in the video?

[@ashleyalverson2858]

Where are your sandals from!?

[@NeelamAhooja]

The Row Constance velvet sandals (old)

[@Louiseh48]

For your comfortable relaxed fit, how many inches larger than your own measurements do you look for in the low hip and thighs?

[@NeelamAhooja]

Sorry I missed this comment! I go up two or three inches sometimes but I like mine low and loose.

[@leetalbechor7129]

Hi I have a question I have a pair of 501s I bought like 5 years ago there not vintage they are the levi's birthday bae Jean. They are a cropped jean. I bought them in a size w27 l28 and they fit comfortably. If I buy a pair of vintage 501s what should I look for size wise because I am 5’6 and my waist is normally a size 6.

[@NeelamAhooja]

I usually purchase two sizes up from my usual size to make sure the waist fits. And three to four sizes up for a baggy fit.

[@rosanemedeiros7806]

Oh, I would so much like to meet you in person, you inspire me in your looks. But I'm in Tribeca, are you in Canada? I also follow you on instagram🥰

[@NeelamAhooja]

That’s very sweet, thank you! Yes, in Canada. ☺️

[@wellahartig3477]

Come to Costa Rica and help me buy Levi’s!🙏😃 do I want men’s OMG this is work!

[@NeelamAhooja]

Sometimes men’s Levi’s work for women too. Pay more attention to the measurements vs whether they’re a men’s or woman’s jean

[@mybagoftheday1722]

Were the vintage Levi’s 501 jeans originally designed for men? I bought a pair of new women`s 501 jeans and now also another that is a men`s style and I am suprised that I think the men’s style is much more flattering! It has lower sitting back pockets and slightly lower and more flat waist. Also 32L in women is the same length as 34L in men which is weird. In vintage jeans it is a problem for me as a long legged woman that so many have been cut shorter. I was lucky to find a pair of salvage denim 501s in 32L which is almost long enough for me and the fit is flattering as in the mens’ new 501 style, just a bit lower waist still.

[@NeelamAhooja]

I imagine the answer to this is yes but I don’t know for sure. Love the low waists!

[@funtimefranky]

Yes they were

[@wellahartig3477]

I made a offer on a pair of vintage jeans 28, they said on the sight they shrunk and are 24 25 inch waist? Is this normal?

[@NeelamAhooja]

Does the label on the original Levi’s say 28? If so, the waist is usually a 26.5 or slightly smaller. Either way, all you need to know is what your waist size is and use the measurements as a guide to determine whether they’ll fit you or not.

[@wellahartig3477]

@@NeelamAhooja great thank you!

[@ckf36]

How the fuck are you so cool

[@NeelamAhooja]

Haha! Thank you ☺️ My kids will tell you I’m NOT so cool 😉

[@xxxxSOSEXYxxxx]

Levi’s needs to just bring back these fucking jeans!!! I’m sick of looking and looking and LOOKING for the perfect jeans. I miss 80/90’s Levi’s jeans.

[@NeelamAhooja]

Me too! Thank goodness we can still get vintage pairs. The denim is so much nicer on them.