How To Solder Leads On Tri-Color LEDs For Model Railroad Signals

[@fiddlyphuk6414]

Awesome that you posted links to the LED specs and supplier. Waiting to see the finished product operating on you layout.

[@BArailsystem]

Glad you found them useful! They are on the layout and working now, featured in the last couple layout update videos. Cheers!

[@shanestrains4724]

Patience is definitely key doing these. I have twenty of these microscopic lights and managed to wire up three but it took couple days with breaks in between. Trying to do a bunch in succession I think is just asking for it. I like the use of the enamel polish but put mine into a syringe bottle applicator as I found it give me more control then the brush in the bottle. I also use liquid flux and apply it in the same fashion as it give more control as well. Magnifiers for my eyes are a necessary as well. Thanks for posting this video, it gave me the idea to try this myself because as you said, this stuff gets expensive when you start adding up the cost of everything needed.👍

[@patrickflynn843]

WHAT AN EXCELLENT VIDEO. Great script and ad libs from the peanut gallery in the room....and good clear shots of what was being done. This is what I'll do for my Western Pacific searchlight signals!

[@BArailsystem]

Thanks Patrick, glad you found it helpful and enjoyed the peanut gallery commentary :)

[@sparqqling]

To get thinner wires and get it more prototypical you can use a tri-color led that requires only 2 wires. These have a green and red led in parallelle but have opposite polarity. To make orange you have to change the polarity at least 25 times a second and your eye will blend it into orange. You will need a little circuit to that, but it will reduce the amount of wires.

[@BArailsystem]

A couple other people mentioned that as well. I'll have to keep that in mind when I go to do the triple heads.

[@russcole5685]

Great idea

[@davidmcclelland2661]

Thanks for the illustration with fine LED's.

[@BArailsystem]

You're welcome. Thanks for watching!

[@JoeG-firehousewhiskey]

Wow, thats incredible! You have a new level of patience!

[@BArailsystem]

A new level of insanity! :)

[@SFRATON]

Great video Ben and your foreman person did a great job. -Kevin

[@BArailsystem]

Thanks Kevin!

[@robertbage5052]

Thanks. Very useful. Can't waitto get started. Bob (UK)

[@BArailsystem]

Have fun!

[@rickschonfelder2977]

Very helpful video. I’ve not heard of the company who produces the actual signal kit. Your best video yet and I’ve enjoyed all of them.

[@BArailsystem]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@neilrogers1571]

Ben thanks for this video I am doing the same as you except I am building the heads and poles etc from scratch from brass shims and brass rod. I haven't connected the LED's up yet, been thinking about how I will do it first, you have given me some incentive to proceed.

[@BArailsystem]

No problem! It would definitely be easier to just purchase the LEDs right from Showcase. They already have nice long leads attached. If I lived in the states that's probably the route I would go. I plan on using Digitrax hardware and JMRI panel pro to run them. I've got an Arduino which my little brother wrote me a program that will simulate the wobble of the lens' on the real thing. Can't wait to show you guys that! That distinctive wobble of the red light after being "knocked down" from green as the train passes at Banff is a key animation I want to recreate.

[@thomream1888]

Thanks, Ben. Great lesson. You explained it well enough for even this electro-dummy to follow! Since CA is non-conductive, could you use CA instead of nail polish for added strength? Seems like those wires need all the help they can get to stay put. And with a coast of flat black paint I think they will look just like the wire bundle coming out of a proto-light. And if anybody is having a bad day, things just aren't going right - just listen to the last minute of this video! Your' kiddo's voice will put a smile on ANYONE's face! Ghost of SP

[@BArailsystem]

No problem, glad you found it informative. You definitely could use CA, I don't know why I haven't tried that. The nail polish is a little less permanent I guess? I have been able to peel wires off and re-solder after putting nail polish on. With CA you might as well throw it in the bin because those wires aren't going anywhere. Haha yes she has that effect. Can put a smile on anyone's face. Thanks! Ben

[@johnschultz9023]

What some are forgetting is that the wiring run through a length of greenfield flex , so the magnet wire is close to actual diameter.

[@yrunaked4]

Great video, I have most of the showcase line in boxes for future use. I looked them over and they are very sharp indeed and not a bad price. I just need to figure out how to light and animate those tiny wig wags. You have a great technique on soldering. Thanks so much for sharing. Cheers Rob

[@BArailsystem]

Thanks Rob. I got some of their lineside boxes too, they have some great products.

[@TheDaf95xf]

Hi Ben. Hope your all doing well 😃 The patents of saint on this one 🤣 Great little helper too 🤣🤣 Have a lovely weekend until the next time cheers Stevie 😎🇬🇧

[@BArailsystem]

Thanks Stevie! That commentary was so funny I had to include it, she just wandered by while I was making the video and started chatting.

[@boylesterminalshops6841]

Hopefully in the future you’ll do some videos on installing and setting up signals. Driving and programming the signals is what I’m worried most about.

[@BArailsystem]

You bet, I can do that.

[@dougkathydavies3024]

If you twist those wires tightly and paint them black as they go into the mast, it would greatly improve the appearance. I think the size is pretty much bang on.

[@BArailsystem]

Yep, I just had it mocked up for the video. This signal still needs a coat of flat grey over the whole thing to cover the unpainted brass parts and give a uniform appearance. Then I will install the targets and paint the wires black.

[@Longshadowsmodeltrees]

Have fun with it, they look good Ben and will look good on your Railroad. Bob

[@BArailsystem]

Thanks Bob!

[@needs2quit1atgmail87]

Great how to!!! Thank you so much now I'm going to try!!!. Btw...your a great dad

[@BArailsystem]

Thanks so much! I try my best, she's only going to be little for so long...

[@joehoffman5308]

Thank you sir for sharing. Great how to video!

[@BArailsystem]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@michaelmorgan7893]

You definitely have a marketable product with those. I've bought the ones that Custom Finishing says are made to fit, but on my HO signals, I had to "carve out" part of the inside of the signal heads to get it to fit. On my n scale kit, I had to install them sideways, so they only light "on edge" and now, they say they're running out of those. Until Atlas comes out with those, like BLMA had for HO, and N, we are stuck with what we can find, or use those round 3 color lights, which are not prototypical for 1970's Santa Fe.

[@BArailsystem]

These Showcase Miniatures ones need to be drilled out too, lots of work but the end product is fantastic.

[@michaelmorgan7893]

@@BArailsystem I built a double head N scale one last year. Assembling the heads was easy. The difficult part was threading both "cables" of wires down through the mast, which in N scale is the size of a hypodermic syringe needle.

[@corunnarailwayline7130]

Admiring your work, this seems awfully pain staking to pull off haha. As other have said I think I would have trouble even seeing the pads let alone soldering to them. Not to mention I have a very unsteady hand. Great video mate - Sean

[@BArailsystem]

Thanks Sean! It's definitely not for everyone.

[@ralgith]

They do make some pre-wired with 36 AWG rubber coated wire (very fine, and more reliable than the lacquer covered ones that you're using) sold on eBay under "Micro-Litz". You can find then in RGB 0402 for example. That lets you make any colors you want.

[@BArailsystem]

All the Litz wire I've seen is way too thick to resemble the thickness of the prototype wire coming out the back of the assembly when 4 of them are twisted together. This would cause another problem when you go to thread all 8 wires for a double headed signal through the brass rod (1/16"). It was tough to thread just plain #36 magnet wire. I'll have to do another search of eBay, maybe I missed a smaller diameter Micro-Litz?

[@ralgith]

@@BArailsystem All of the Micro-Litz I've ever gotten was 36 or 38AWG and very thin. But, it's probably still slightly thicker than the magnet wire. I just don't like to have to worry about the lacquer coating getting worn off and causing a short. I've seen too many people using it in their engines for strobes and the like, and then having it fry their decoder and/or blow the LED. I, personally, would be fine with the wires being slightly oversized in exchange for not having that worry. As for the brass tube and fitting the wires, I think I can manage it. Even if I have to go with the next diameter larger of tube and cut it myself. K&S brass and aluminum is your friend!

[@BArailsystem]

@@ralgith It's definitely a concern but I've been soldering SMD LEDs like this for years in my locomotives and I haven't even had one fail yet. Some of them have been in for over 8 years. Once they are installed, there's very little strain on them.

[@ralgith]

@@BArailsystem Well, that's because you're more skilled than many :) While the comments are "directed" at you since it's your video; they're more for the edification of your other viewers who may not be as skilled with micro soldering and wire layout as you are.

[@Juan_A_Garcia]

Very nice videoooooooOOOO!! Greetings from Spain.

[@BArailsystem]

Thank you very much! Greetings from Canada!

[@trainsontuesday]

Well done Ben, I'm not sure I'd be able to see those contact points let alone solder them. David.

[@BArailsystem]

Thanks David

[@HHExpress]

Very good instructions thank you for showing greetings Hai

[@BArailsystem]

Thanks!

[@marineraptor6696]

that cool. i have few bmla signals before atlas bought company. i donno what era your layout is but if era goes up to 2020 just so you know the divide and field signals are using US Darth Vader signals. i going to be suing ESU Signal pilot once they release it for my signals. good work there.

[@BArailsystem]

Searchlights forever! The whole Laggan is getting changed out over the next 5 years or so is what I heard. My layout will feature searchlights exclusively.

[@seanbaldwin7933]

That was helpful, and yes your insane lol. I suppose one of those magnifier headsets may help with this task as I am going to make my own signals, but I suppose after doing a couple I will probably end up throwing a fit haha. Keep up the great work, loving it.

[@BArailsystem]

Thanks! Well you can purchase them from Showcase miniatures and they do look really nice, they are just super expensive for a Canadian like me once you convert CAD-USD and then pay to ship them north.

[@seanbaldwin7933]

I can understand why you do them yourself like I am going to scratch build all my signals as $45AU each signal is pathetic hey. Joys of owning a 3D printer helps and some metal tube for that same price you can make a heap of signals :)

[@HDSuperFly.live.247]

Great job 👏

[@BArailsystem]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@BorisLu]

Nice video!

[@BArailsystem]

Thanks!

[@andrewgriffiths1707]

If the tip of the solder iron is keep clean, it will be a lot better. you can buy a sponge to wipe the tip before you make each joint. This would help you use the point of the soldering iron tip, and not the side of the tip. The sponge needs to be keep wet, and you must not file the tip of the iron.

[@BArailsystem]

Good advice!

[@russcole5685]

​@@BArailsystem I used a steel wool,. Like a Goldilocks pot scrubber

[@danmcguire7111]

Hello, this video has inspired me to look into doing this myself. Have you tried this with surface mount paste and have you been able to automate your signals

[@robbiewales3007]

I always have trouble finding good yellow led's for signals as some are not high intensity led or some are orange

[@kevinguthrie5495]

Excellent video. Until I saw this I didn't think it was possible to work with surface mounted components without specialized equipment. But I couldn't find a 300 watt Weller soldering iron, the max out there seems to be 80w. Are you sure its 300?

[@BArailsystem]

Yes that's correct it is the 80W Weller, it does say 300W max on it so that's what I may have been incorrectly referring to. It works well, but has to be turned up as high as it goes to keep the point of the tip hot.

[@mysticrailroad]

excellent video. thanks for sharing.

[@BArailsystem]

Thanks!

[@pathorsman2992]

Hi Ben, great video. By video taping all your work, can you submit it to achieve your master modellers certificate ? Thanks-Pat

[@BArailsystem]

I'm not sure Pat.

[@chandlerbranchrailfanprodu5928]

Hi Benjamin! Would you like to voice in my MSTS talking trains series? Also what kind of Canadian diesel would you want to be. You should start a talking train series using your model trains just like Thomas the Tank Engine but with Canadian Trains. CP vs CN Rivalry. Set in 2014-present or 1990s you decide.

[@BArailsystem]

Hahah wow, creative! I'll think about it. Thanks.

[@chandlerbranchrailfanprodu5928]

@@BArailsystem There's a person you should consider asking to voice act: Richmondcityrailfan (Nicholas) and also Benthetrainkid (Benjamin H.), Conrailfan76 (Ian), Greenmachines777 (Joey), and VictorTanzig

[@aerodevelopments]

What size/number are these SMDs?

[@moosetrain]

I used led's from R-R Cirkits they where only 3.56 each with long leads. Do you clean of the flux off after with some cleaner as I see you are using RA flux. I use a RMA flux. At my age the eyes are not as good when I was younger. Bob C

[@BArailsystem]

I haven't been cleaning them off, I probably should before putting the enamel on. Thanks for the tip.

[@farmerdave7965]

I recommend that you get rid of that soldering iron and get one with a grounded tip.

[@BArailsystem]

When this one craters, I think that's the way I will go.

[@farmerdave7965]

@@BArailsystem How many decoders will you destroy before that happens ?

[@OScaleMike]

Forget the trains for about 10 years! Go play with your kid! My kids are in college now and I miss when they were little so much! Those little kids are gone forever, all grown up. Btw, thanks for the tutorial! NOW GO PLAY!!!

[@BArailsystem]

We've got the best of both worlds going. Include the kids in your hobby! Let them be a part of it, let them touch things. Set up their stuff alongside. We've got a 4x8 LEGO table right beside the trains as well as an array of other favourite toys. Basement time is family time for us : ) Now excuse my while I go listen to "Cats In The Cradle" by Cat Stevens.

[@chrisshoulders4066]

Awesome how too

[@BArailsystem]

Thanks Chris!

[@bobbywright2100]

What was the part number on the tricolor leds you used? Thanks, Bobby

[@BArailsystem]

It's in the video description.

[@rickschonfelder2977]

Is there any chance you can offer a link for the wire?

[@BArailsystem]

I bought it years ago from eBay, I doubt the same seller is still around. It's pretty common wire, doesn't matter what brand it is. Most electronics stores carry something similar.

[@dougmoeller8726]

Do you know if they make an LED like the ones you use with RED, Yellow, and WHITE, or Light BLUE???

[@BArailsystem]

I am sure they do, google search Digikey Electronics.

[@ktmbilly3963]

Marvelously refreshing 🍕👍

[@BArailsystem]

Thanks!

[@Electropickle]

Wow! You have the finesse of a brain surgeon.

[@BArailsystem]

Hahah! I think the the camera hides the shakiness a bit.

[@dougmoeller8726]

How did you install the LEDS to the signal heads???

[@BArailsystem]

Small dab of CA glue.

[@CharlieKrampitz]

Why didn't you use a tri color led?

[@BArailsystem]

Hi Charlie they are tri colour LEDs. The thumbnail just shows three so you can see the colours on their own.

[@tazcurrier2193]

Where did you buy your signal heads from?? The castings...

[@BArailsystem]

They are kits from Showcase Miniatures.

[@tazcurrier2193]

@@BArailsystem Thank you... can you provide a link?

[@BArailsystem]

@@tazcurrier2193 www.google.com/search?q=showcase+miniatures&source=hp&ei=VB6MYIW1H5Da-gTsnoLYDg&iflsig=AINFCbYAAAAAYIwsZDG1bAPOeWFxk3RBRb12GOfJrejP&oq=showcase+miniatures&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAMyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyBggAEBYQHjIGCAAQFhAeMgYIABAWEB4yBggAEBYQHjoICAAQsQMQgwE6CwguELEDEMcBEKMCOg4ILhCxAxCDARDHARCjAjoFCAAQsQM6DgguELEDEMcBEKMCEJMCOgsILhCxAxDHARCvAToICC4QxwEQrwE6AgguOg0ILhCxAxDHARCjAhAKOgUIABDJAzoQCC4QsQMQxwEQowIQChCTAjoKCC4QxwEQowIQCjoLCC4QxwEQrwEQkwJQ9AZYjhxgwBxoAnAAeACAAV-IAdEMkgECMjCYAQCgAQGqAQdnd3Mtd2l6&sclient=gws-wiz&ved=0ahUKEwiFr7TOoKbwAhUQrZ4KHWyPAOsQ4dUDCAk&uact=5

[@tazcurrier2193]

@@BArailsystem What did you use for LED's, if you used the three light signal head? (TypeD). Thanks!!

[@BArailsystem]

@@tazcurrier2193 I haven't built any yet but I am planning on using the same ones as these in the video.

[@ericjonboone]

Early in the video, you mentioned how the four wires were oversized. Have you considered using bidirectional red-green LEDs instead as they would only need two wires. www.digikey.ca/short/z9033z RR Cirkits SignalLCC (for NMRA LCC) and SignalMan (for DCC) circuits can drive bidirectional red-green LEDs. www.rr-cirkits.com/description/index.html

[@BArailsystem]

Interesting, do they have an off state then? If the common is used to power one of them backwards, wouldn't it come on when say the yellow is lit via the common? I've already purchased all the digitrax hardware to drive the signals.

[@ericjonboone]

The setup doesn't use a common. It just uses two I/O lines and changes the direction of the current to control the color. For yellow, the direction of current is rapidly switched so the light appears yellow to the eye.

[@ericjonboone]

@@BArailsystem I looked at the manual for the Digitrax SE8C Signal Decoder and on page 14 they include instructions on how to wire a bidirectional LED. www.digitrax.com/media/apps/products/detection-signaling/se8c/documents/SE8C.pdf

[@BArailsystem]

@@ericjonboone Very interesting!

[@ianroberts6929]

Unbelievable!

[@LaughingLionMedia]

Excuse me - But is that the Blue Nose on that coin?

[@BArailsystem]

Yes it is!

[@chatanugadotorg]

Also, don't solder while wearing shorts. Don't ask how I know.

[@thomream1888]

You mean those aren't just freckles on your upper legs??? BTDT my friend; got the scars but I'm still waiting for the t-shirt... BTW that solder smoke is NOT a joke. Nearly put me in the hospital some years ago ( I know, I know, play stupid games, win stupid prizes...) so PLEASE be careful! Ghost of SP

[@BArailsystem]

Good point! I've had several run ins with the soldering iron - lost every time.

[@ARB4957]

Good grief - as an "older" member of the model railroading fraternity I suspect there is no way I can the neat job you do - ah well just have to use £s instead (i'm in Scotland, UK) :-)

[@BArailsystem]

I am fortunate to still have good eyesight and a steady hand - there will come a day for me too when I won't be able to do tasks like this. Hopefully LEDs are cheaper by then :) Thanks for the comment and greetings from Alberta, Canada!

[@ARB4957]

BArailsystem We were on the Rocky Mountaineer last year and were in Banff - and boy have you nailed it !

[@surerockco.models3452]

lol I have a little 5yo foreman on my CP layout too.

[@BArailsystem]

That's awesome! I love having the kids down there working with me.