How to start main strings using floating (flying) clamps. No starting clamp or starting pin required

How to start the main strings using floating (flying) clamps AND always clamping close to the frame (i.e. no offset/staggered clamps and no gaps of untensioned string between the clamp and the frame).
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Also see "CORRECTION NOTE" at bottom of description
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I cover various scenarios that can dictate slightly altering the procedure.
This includes specific issues that some 2 point machines may pose (due to the mounting) and specific issues that may arise (based on bulkiness of certain types of flying clamps).
Some points to consider...
- eliminates having any gaps/spacing between clamp and frame
- not required to tension 2 strings, simultaneously, in the gripper/tensioner at any point (for those
who may own machines/grippers that have issues tensioning 2 strings together)
- full reference tension achieved on each and every string
- no double pulling
- no starting pin needed
- no starting clamp needed (but is even easier/simpler - if you do have/get one)
- works equally well for mains that start at the Throat (i.e. 6 holes) or at the Head (i.e. 8 holes)
- eliminates any need to try to fit a flying clamp (or starting clamp) inside the yoke of the frame (even if the mains start at the Head)
- coincides with the USRSA recommendation to not tension more than 3 mains on a given side (in most cases, I've kept this to only 2 mains).
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CORRECTION NOTE: at 25:35, I explained why you would measure off ONE additional hoop length for that centermost main string. That should've been TWO additional hoop lengths, NOT just ONE.
This means that, ultimately, the centermost main should be 2 hoop lengths longer than the neighboring (2nd) main string. This ensures that both halves will actually be equal - once the same number of mains have been tensioned on the left and right sides of the frame.
I was going to simply edit/replace that particular segment, to eliminate any possible confusion.
However, KZbin Editor doesn't currently allow footage to be added.
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[@tinnguyen143]

I’m about to start my journey into stringing and have subscribed to your channel AND following you on tennis talk. Thanks for helping so many out there WES!

[@PCSStringing]

@Tin Nguyen, You're quite welcome. When you have a chance, send me a PM over on Talk Tennis (which are called "Conversations" on there), or just let me know what you're username is, and I can send you one. It'll be an easier way to communicate than only on here. Thanks for subscribing!

[@ferchu0601]

What is the function of the spacer at the start?

[@ferchu0601]

Can u do the video again and upload a better quality please

[@johnmoon822]

Got the main figured out using flying clamps. Now, is there a specific way to do the cross stringing with flying clamps? Thank you

[@PCSStringing]

@John Moon, I don't understand exactly why you're finding 20:32 confusing to you. Can you be more specific? Perhaps you missed something important earlier in the video (did you watch all the way through or did you skip over parts). Maybe (re)watch what I stated between 14:50-16:05 EXACTLY which machine are you using? Also, let me know if you do, or do not, have a Starting Clamp. Telling me these 2 things will help greatly, since I'll then know exactly what you're working with. Cheers, Wes

[@johnmoon822]

Thx for reaching out, Wes. Apologize for ambiguous comment. I’m using Gamma 200 progression (entry level) w/o starting clamp. After rewatching a few more times, I got it. I’ll go w/scenario A. However, it seems like there are many scenarios to do the crossing. In many cases, many start the tension on the 2nd weave, causing tension drop on the 1st weave. Do you recommend this? Thx in adv.

[@PCSStringing]

@John Moon, Regarding starting your mains... Since you are using a Gamma Prog. 200 (exact same machine as a Gamma X-2, other than the Prog. 200 has a red base and the X-2 has a blue base), you have 2 identical Gamma composite flying clamps. Due to the bulkiness of the Gamma flying clamps, I really doubt you fall into Scenario A (where the clamps WILL fit directly side-by-side, WITHOUT any other stings between them). You, almost surely, will be Scenario B (where you need to have at least one string in between them, in order to have the flying clamps fit side-by-side - with BOTH clamps as close to the grommets/frame as possible. Try this little test/check (in the following video) that I made when I was helping out someone else a number of years ago. It also may help you better understand the difference between "Scenario A" and "Scenario B". kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZS7dIaPlr57oJI And here are a couple additional videos that should be well suited for you (Scenario B)... kzbin.info/www/bejne/f6KXqXlmptt7iac and kzbin.info/www/bejne/gZuoi5ambbpmfrs And, lastly, here's a nice "workaround" when using a 2pt. mount drop-weight AND the frame has 8 holes in the throat bridge... kzbin.info/www/bejne/j2i8aWegnp2pps0

[@PCSStringing]

@John Moon, Regarding starting your crosses... Since you don't have a starting clamp, your options are somewhat limited. However, you do have a few options to consider. Check out the following video (which I made some time ago, when I was helping out someone else who also had a Gamma drop-weight flying clamp machine)... kzbin.info/www/bejne/nXfQeWergtiXrZY Note: Although you (typically) don't HAVE to own a Starting Clamp in order to string racquets, I would highly recommend getting one. It will greatly simplify the procedure of starting your mains AND starting your crosses - as well as several other useful things. A Starting Clamp really is the "multi-tool" or "Swiss army knife" of stringing tools - it has many MANY uses. BTW, if you tell me EXACTLY what frame you're stringing, I may be able to offer up additional tips/advice for handling that particular racquet. Also, are you a member on the Talk Tennis forums? If so, what is your user ID on Talk Tennis? Cheers, Wes

[@imateapot51]

Nice video. I have 4 starting clamps and two professional machines. One with swivel clamps and one with glide bars. Stringing fan patterns is no issue on the swivel clamp machine but it is on the glide bar machine, which came with floating clamps. I had a racquetball racquet I could not mount on my expensive swivel clamp machine so I had to use the glide bar machine since I could mount it on that. But racquetball racquets are all fan patterns (and very annoying from a tennis perspective). I could not use the floating clamp on the first two mains because first string is at 1 and second is at 5, but could for some if there was an adjacent tensioned string. I was curious if you could string an entire racquet with floating clamps. I tried first with out watching any videos and failed miserably. Not that I have a need but it was a fun challenge. For kids who parents are tired of paying so much for string jobs, especially advance kids who hit top, who buy inexpensive drop weights with floating clamps, this video would be excellent for them. Very well explained and detailed. I have one question though. When you were doing the scenario assuming bulky clamps (I think mine are) you set the clamp at the throat and not the head and released tension, noting that it was just to make room and you would tension it later. But couldn't you have clamped at the head so you would not have to pull (stretch) that string twice? Or was that just to demonstrate side by side with bulky clamps?

[@PCSStringing]

Hello @imateapot51, You've brought up quite a number of things. Answering ALL of those things here isn't really the easiest thing to tackle. Can you reach out to me over on the Tennis Warehouse Talk Tennis forums? My name on there is simply "Wes". You can start a "Conversation" (their terminology for a private message) with me on there. It's a far easier way to communicate back & forth. Which swivel clamp machine do you have (which you couldn't mount a racquetball frame on)? Also, which glide-bar machine do you have? Neos 1000? Could I string an entire racquet with floating clamps? Yes. Regarding your question(s) at the end of your comment... If you are referring to 19:05 in the video... yes, I could have moved that floating clamp to the opposite end (head). However, that would then have the frame with THREE strings tensioned on one half of the frame & only ONE string tensioned on the other half (this is something I avoid, as I only like to be ONE string ahead on a given side). This decreases the amount of stress/strain on the frame AND retains better symmetry (tension wise) between the left and right halves of the frame. After all, there's a good reason why we don't string all 8 mains on just ONE side of the racquet, and THEN go back and do 8 mains on the opposite side. Same principle/concept, just a smaller value. Look forward to hearing from you over on the TT forum. Cheers, Wes

[@scottfung7700]

In configuration B and 6 hole at the throat, you pull a string two different times because you clamp at the throat for creating a gap so that two clamps can be side by side. How do you avoid pulling the same string two different times?

[@PCSStringing]

Hi @Scott Fung, It may be easier for us to communicate through the TW Talk Tennis forums. My username there is simply "Wes". Feel free to send me a private message there (their term for a PM is called a "Conversation").

[@LiZiLiang]

Strung my first racquet just only using flying clamps because I haven't received the starting clamp, I applied your technique, also avoided using the starting knots, I saw your videos more than 10 times and it took me less than an hour. Used 55 pounds and the last strings used 60 pounds, thanks for all the knowledge transfer!

[@PCSStringing]

@Javier Li Since your starting clamp had not arrived yet, how did you tension the top cross without resorting to using a starting knot?

[@LiZiLiang]

@@PCSStringing Same technique as the main, use the flying clamp to hold the tension

[@Widmer09]

Thanks for sharing a great idea of starting the mains without using fixed clamps or a starting clamp (which is somehow very expensive). I use my "tube spacer" from the inner plastic tube in my over grip pack. It works great. I also play guitar, so when all the mains are done, I check the pitch and stretch as needed to make sure the mains with the same length have the same pitch (tension is evenly distributed).

[@PCSStringing]

You're quite welcome. I got tired of seeing sooooo many really terrible videos, of people trying to demonstrate how to start mains with floating clamps, that I decided to make one that addresses the pitfalls that the other videos have (i.e. clamping away from the frame... not actually getting reference tension on each & every string, etc. etc.) I made the video so that it covers all the various factors someone using floating clamps might be faced with (whether or not they have a starting clamp... whether or not the clamps can easily fit near one another... whether or not their racquet has 6 holes in the bridge, or 8 holes). There's a few things that could be improved upon (better lighting, bright colored string that's easier to see, etc.), so I'll likely reshoot this video whenever I find time to get around to it. Exactly what machine are you currently using?

[@Widmer09]

@@PCSStringing I'm a beginner using Gamma X-2 stringer that came with just 2 bulky floating clamps. When I need to use both clamps next to each other, I have to flip one up-side down. Seems OK so far.

[@adityareddyp]

@PCS Stringing - Is there a way to start crosses without tensioning the first two at the same time using flying clamps ?

[@PCSStringing]

@adityareddyp - There are a couple of different things that are often described as "tensioning two strings at the same time", so it's hard for me to know exactly which you are referring to. There IS a way to start the crosses, and get full reference tension on each cross string. First, let me ask you a couple things... 1. Exactly which stringing machine are you using? 2. Do you have a starting clamp? 3. Exactly which racquet are you stringing?

[@adityareddyp]

@@PCSStringing First of all, thanks so much for replying. Using gamma X2 drop weight with flying clamps. No starting clamp. I plan to string babolat AeroG and Tecnifibre XTC 300. I have seen other videos on stringing using flying clamps and when they start crosses, they start with a starting knot and do not tension the first cross as the flying clamp cannot hold on to one string. They only seem to tension the crosses starting with the second cross.

[@PCSStringing]

@adityareddyp - Are you a member on the Tennis Warehouse Talk Tennis forums? tt.tennis-warehouse.com/index.php It would be easier for us to communicate back-and-forth on there (since I can also share photos/videos easier that way). My username on the TT forums is simply "Wes". Start a "Conversation" (that's their term for a private message) with me there, or just tell me what your Talk Tennis username is and I can start the "Conversation" with you (if you don't already have the "Conversation" function enabled, you will have to make sure to have it enabled). Cheers, Wes

[@adityareddyp]

@@PCSStringing Thanks Wes. I will send you a message in the forum.

[@LiZiLiang]

Based on your experience, how accurate is the flying clamps against the fixed clamp? In terms of stringing time which is faster?

[@PCSStringing]

In terms of pure tension accuracy, fixed clamps are far better than flying/floating clamps. Because flying clamps work by clamping one string to another neighboring string, they will have more "drawback" (i.e. tension loss) than fixed clamps do. The exception to this fact would be the Stringway Triple flying clamp (because it clamps onto 3 strings, it nullifies the twisting effect that is inherent to standard floating clamps). Also, it is very very common that flying/floating clamps can not be positioned/clamped as close to the grommets/frame as fixed clamps can. The further away from the grommets/frame that you place the clamp - the more UNTENSIONED string you are leaving in the string bed. This creates even more tension loss. Furthermore, very frequently flying clamps force the 2 strings, that they are clamped on, to be deflected (curved). The 2 strings are forced away from one another (or sometimes forced towards one another). Neither of these situations are good, since any time the strings are deflected (NOT perfectly straight) then you are creating slack in the string bed, and therefore even more tension loss. So, (for the reasons I've mentioned above) in order to compensate for all this lost tension, it is typical that you would need to use a HIGHER reference tension on a machine with flying clamps (than would be need on a machine that has fixed clamps) for the string bed to end up with the same dynamic tension (same feel/same behavior). In addition to all of that, flying/floating clamps present other challenges (especially to people new to stringing). How to start the main strings (while preserving maximum tension) is more intricate/complicated when using flying clamps vs. fixed clamps. There are many poor ways to start the main strings with flying clamps. I see people doing it very badly ALL THE TIME. Very seldom do I see people using floating clamps in a manner which properly preserves the correct/most tension. This is exactly why I created this video!! How to start the cross strings (while preserving maximum tension) is also more complicated. Example: how are you going to clamp off the top cross when there isn't yet another string to clamp it to? Now... as far as pure speed goes, the time required is actually pretty similar. Moving flying clamps around can be equally as fast (possibly even faster, in some cases) than moving fixed clamps around. Part of that actually depends on if the fixed clamps are "single action" (like the glide bar clamps on a Prince Neos 1000) or if the fixed clamps are "double action" (like the swivel clamps found on the vast majority of machines). In regards to speed: If you're wanting to dramatically decrease time spent on each racquet, your focus should be on improving your weaving technique. By far, weaving technique/speed is what will help you cut your stringing times down. Weaving cross strings is what eats up the most time during a string job.

[@LiZiLiang]

@@PCSStringing Thanks for taking the time to explain me in detail about the differences, it's really helpful for me, I ordered Stringway Triple flying clamp x2, based on reviews from forums that flying clamp hold tension without drawbacks, I think with the gamma starting clamp and the triple flying clamp I'll get very accurate tension with my KM machine. I'll start stringing into 2 weeks and let you the results

[@PCSStringing]

@Javier Li, if you tell me EXACTLY what racquet you intend to be stringing, I may be able to offer you more helpful/specific advice.

[@LiZiLiang]

@@PCSStringing Babolat Pure Drive 2021 with klippermate SM, starting clamp and triple flying clamp x2

[@LiZiLiang]

@@PCSStringing hey is it safe string the Pure Drive racquet with only 2 ending knots? that's because we need to cut it for main and cross, so that will be 4 ending knots