How to Straighten a Wall For Plasterboard

A simple block and string line trick for getting straight walls. This technique is used quite often in carpentry so it's a good one to know! Timber can be unpredictable!
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Disclaimer: These videos are intended to provide information and inspiration only. If you choose to imitate, duplicate or copy anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. Scott Brown Carpentry Ltd does not take any responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this KZbin channel and shall not have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result. To view full disclaimer, click here: www.scottbrown...

[@tobortine]

I had no reason to watch this video, I have no wall to straighten but it was, nevertheless, interesting and entertaining.

[@harrystefanatos7870]

I found a few cuts in my old wall (during my reno)and thought...idiots to myself. Now I know better....thanks guys

[@danieltreacy6957]

No you were right. Idiots. You don’t cut studs. You plane or pack. And when you make the wall you place studs with all bends the same way

[@slicktype001]

Wow, I have never in my days seen this being done to a newly framed wall. Kudos' to you my friend.

[@Michaelduxfield]

Hahahaha

[@TheJunkyardgenius]

I've been a carpenter for 18 years and never saw that trick before. definitely going to use that one! good video mate, thanks for sharing.

[@scorpiuswireless1]

Wow youre an amatuer, thanks for sharing.

[@hyper_active_snail]

First day doing reno at my first home. Ran into exact same issue as the gib wall had clearly visible kinks so we ripped it out and checked the studs. Studs were all over the place. Thanks for the content. Very helpful!

[@harveysmith100]

Great job. I normally end up skimming the walls I build so the time it takes to straighten them will be made up and more in the skimming. Your plasterers much love you!

[@louui]

cabinet and granite guys are gonna love installing in that home! 🔥🔥

[@davidskeeterskeeter1835]

Hi fellas,,I’ve worked in construction for 58 years,!,,BUT,,today I learned something new,!😀,,well done guys, from a really old geezer in the uk,👍💨👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🇬🇧

[@tii2015]

I've done plenty of framing and never seen that method of straightening. Absolutely brilliant! To the nay Sayers, that act of reinforcing on both sides with a sister, reestablishes the structural integrity. That 40mil cut won't affect anything. And like 8bitsim said, " if you want straight, use metal studs. (But that's not for sure either). Nothing is perfect, after all. TII

[@MrDeano-eu9rg]

This is a terrible method. Using a planer and packets is atleast 3 times faster and simpler...one tool.

[@jc_hz4196]

I am not going to lie, I thought after doing construction for so long, thought this video was useless, little did I knew I would learn something new, Good job we should always stay student, always and have the openness to learn something new. I know I did. Good video.

[@SkillBuilder]

I am English and I love Flitch and Chips

[@democracyforall]

Why did not he use the lasser? Because with that you can really do it without all this trouble?

[@waxhead63]

That's fush n chups

[@jamespolack5205]

Obviously on hourly rate. 😂

[@skylark4901]

I haven't had Flitch and Chips in a while, great now I'm hungry..

[@thejoke2791]

@@democracyforall Oops, the timber is bowed

[@tilerman]

I'm a tiler and with hand on my heart I rarely tile a 'straight' wall be it plasterboard, plaster or any other material. I do accept that sometimes, (sometimes!) the fact that a stud wall is not straight or flat is down to bent timber. However, I do follow on from other 'trades' that don't know what a straight edge is let alone use one. Nice video guys.

[@michaelmewis4761]

I have worked in the construction industry all my life starting out as a carpenter, I'm late 50's now. Never once did I do anything like this but that is not to diss it. It sure would make fitting kitchens a lot easier and would save scribing work tops, but for general wall partitions it seems a waste of time when you are on a price or on bonus during site work. In a lot of cases fitting the paster board would pull it straight in most cases and by the time the plasterer has finished who can tell or gives a rip anyway? Then there is the shrinkage of the timber as the property dries out. Having said all that, it is a good technique and I applaud these guys. :)

[@joem1413]

I'm not a carpenter, but I played with wood for 50 years. Being able to move a stud like that is nice trick. Well done.

[@gsf67]

I did a carpentry course at unitec, and I understood that a plate used for strengthening and stability was a fish plate or cleat, which is attached to a stud, and a flitch plate was used a form of nogging between two parallel members to give these members or beams rigidity.

[@milktoast4413]

Watched this 5 years ago and yesterday was the first time I had to use this building a custom staircase. My boss didn't think it would work. We'll it did and all credit went to scott!!!!!

[@mrlanguage1977bb]

I'm off the tools with a rib injury and watching your fantastic videos for some professional development while home recovering. By the way, with your inspiration I got a full occidental leather carpenters tool belt. This is no small thing in the UK as people work out of bags and pockets here. I've had to grin and bear the crap from other tradies, but its evident to everyone that its so much better working with the belt. Thanks

[@darbar2375]

A flitch plate is a (usually steel) plate bolted between two 2x12's or other header material to give more strength than the lumber can on it's own. The reinforcements that you are putting on the studs to span the cuts, I've always called gussets.

[@freespacexl]

Boom, came from the future (reno series). Great video, even better that you check its straight and don't just assume and gib! 😅

[@alexglendening6798]

That brings me so much joy when you straighten that wall up. I wish all framers in the us did that. Trying to do finish work on messed up walls isn’t fun

[@seanbailey8545]

It's the 'not my job' mentality of working on a building site.

[@MrDeano-eu9rg]

For real? I'm a carpenter in Australia and we do the entire job from frame to hand over. This way is slow and complicated. In Australia this is called straightening the walls and is part of the 'lock up' stage and not framing. I try to get it as close to perfect as possible.

[@seanbailey8545]

@@MrDeano-eu9rg Trust me it's even worse if it's a Friday and people are waiting to clock off. You get wires and pipes in the middle of no where. Doors that won't open cos they hung them the wrong way..

[@allynloring6095]

Thing is from the time the framers leave till the time drywall is hung and is ready for the finish work the walls are not going to be the same ... even if the framer does straighten it out....

[@MrDeano-eu9rg]

@@allynloring6095 only of its left in the rain or really strange weather. The walls in my country don't get straightened until the roof is on and the cladding is done.

[@justgregnow]

NY carpenter here why have I never seen anyone do this before? Great tip on non load-bearing walls.

[@alexrodger751]

Load bearing walls can also be straightened out with this method as well as minor planing and packing. Though in a load bearing wall I’d probably prefer to change out studs that were too bowed, depending on the situation. This is in NZ of course so different rules and regs. And I was shocked that the US and others DIDN’T straighten frames before lining.. I felt sorry for your plasterers lol

[@rfcarlson1]

It's a fish plate. A flitch plate is a steel plate that's sandwiched between two pieces of wood to strengthen it like forming a long beam. A fish plate is a metal or wood piece that's attached as a slab on the side of a wood joint to join them together. The term fish plate comes actually comes from laying railroad track. It's the piece of steel that's attached to 2 tracks to extend their length.

[@stevenlear6439]

I was a fettler for 7 years building rail tracks from the ground up. A fish plate goes on top of the sleeper for the rail to sit on. ie between the rail and the sleeper.

[@carpenterdom1639]

A perfect wall is a rarity and here you are cranking them out every job

[@hvrtguys]

We use this same trick on aircraft wings.

[@TomGarner99]

😲

[@bjeromec]

Same. I'd watch it again too!

[@howardrickert2558]

Wish I didn’t know that.

[@kenthelliker2112]

Model airplanes i hope

[@singlefather01]

What aircraft?

[@dale1956ties]

I saw a guy do something similar once. On the side that he was trying to bring towards him, he cut several kerf cuts similar to yours only on an angle. He drove long sheetrock screws into I to pull the kerfs shut and the stud moved in towards him. I tried it on a bowed stud once and had zero luck straightening it. I finally knocked it out and toed in a straight one.

[@lxmzhg]

To help alleviate this situation you need to ensure that when the studs are nailed into place, that their bow, if any, are all facing in the same direction.

[@michaelgarrow3239]

And no heartwood (bullseyes)they wander like a drunkin hobo…

[@LaserStylez]

If that wall doesn’t support a load or has any structural integrity then what he did was just fine. So many haters with little knowledge. Easy to be a know it all on the internet.. Great work man keep it up!

[@paulrawlinson8653]

The blue sheeting he put on (Brace line) provides the structural integrity. The only loading the lumber takes is vertical loading from the top, so it is fine for up to 1/3 of studs in a structural wall to be treated this way

[@bernardthedon3483]

Not in America. If the project is being inspected their is no way an inspector is going to pass that framing with studs chopped almost in half lol.

[@gazpal]

@@bernardthedon3483 , but that's in America and not New Zealand ;) This type of adjustment doesn't hinder or harm the structural integrity of the building when carried out within Building Regulations.

[@sundog8772]

BernardTheDon Hardly chopped in half...If anything by sistering the ‘chopped’ studs they are equally if not stronger than before. Besides it’s just a partition wall...

[@llRLllKingz]

@@bernardthedon3483 American building is trash. You obviously dont straighten walls

[@davetheflave2570]

To those saying buy straight lumber- wood will move on its own do to weather. Humidity, dryness and so on. So it’s not always that easy and especially if your framing stands alone for a period of time during a remodel. Also this is a great way to complete this task but it’s not time efficient. I’m a carpenter and when we finish framing a house we have to shim and shave the walls and windows. We use a planer, cardboard shims and a 6 foot level. Plane down the side that’s bowed out from the wall and fill gap with shims on the other side. If the stud is that bad we replace it.

[@curtisbme]

Yup. This also allows for adjustments where the bow isn't consistent, where method like this cut-and-brace method would result in other parts of the stud being off.

[@davetheflave2570]

Glyn Owen you’re not lying about that!

Over here people almost exclusively use a stud made the same way plywood is made, 2x3 or 2x4 in size. Stays perfect straight, don't know why it's in use everywhere

[@bunsdad4530]

For sure

[@davetheflave2570]

Henrik Rönn how much does one of these studs cost a piece?

[@LesterEade]

Im a carpenter and have been using this method for years. Only problem is no two adjacent studs are allowed to be cut to be straightened and no more than 25% of the studs in any run can be cut in order to straighten. Plus when nailing studs to plates make sure any bows face the same direction.

[@mrwhite4780]

In all my years of joinery and carpentry I've never seen anyone do this.

[@joemarkey6]

I've never known this be done in the UK either, and 3x2 is all shapes, no one on price has time for this

[@joemarkey6]

I like it though

[@FC-hh6nu]

Same

[@ryderholywonder5864]

@snipe69 built my own home 3 years ago, this is exactly how I straightened my walls. I live in the USA

[@4354bill]

Obviously his own house 😂

[@Rob-rs5rn]

Nice to see true craftsmanship.

[@andrewcady9443]

In rail terminology, a fishplate, splice bar or joint bar is a metal bar that is bolted to the ends of two rails to join them together in a track. The name is derived from fish, a wooden bar with a curved profile used to strengthen a ship's mast.[1]

[@erowidoz]

it's a flitch beam.

[@andrewcady9443]

A flitch beam is something completely different, where you have a strong reinforcing steel layer in between layers of wood. The reinforcement spans the full length of the beam and isn't used to join segments end to end. A flitch beam (or flitched beam) is a compound beam used in the construction of houses, decks, and other primarily wood-frame structures. Typically, the flitch beam is made up of a vertical steel plate sandwiched between two wood beams, the three layers being held together with bolts. In that common form it is sometimes referenced as a steel flitch beam. Further alternating layers of wood and steel can be used to produce an even stronger beam. The metal plate(s) within the beam are known as flitch plates.[1]

[@vincentsruggeri3698]

In the states we call it a scab. Lol

[@paulrawlinson8653]

@@erowidoz It's a fishplate (or cleat) Flitch is sandwiched between 2 other members of different material.

[@Makoonga]

Today is 5-1-19 This video was one of the offerings on You Tube. They must like you. I have straightened countless studs. While your method is fine it is not as fast as what most American carpenters do. Obviously the floor plate and the ceiling plate should be straight. Therefore you can easily and quickly check each individual stud with an 8 foot level, (set vertically)or whatever you got laying around that is straight and nearly as long as the studs. We also use the scab boards on each side of the stud except we use a nail gun with 1/4" crown staples. Again, way faster than screws. You bid your jobs so the speed aspect is entirely up to you however. American contractors are crazy about speed because they are crazy greedy. I go back 50 years in the industry and by the time I got out I could barely stand going to work because of the pressure to hurry up. I refused to hurry up and the first time some boss would mention my speed I would tell him if he was on the job all day he would see all the mistakes his so called Fast workers spent going backwards and fixing their screw ups. And once they had fixed their mistakes...on his clock...I was probably faster plus my work was night and day better than their work. Never got fired but didn't care if I had been. Was sick of the work by the time I was finished.

[@FishermanJosh]

I use this method, one thing I'd love to add... the end studs you placed your blocks and string lines from need to be checked first, if they aren't straight your actually replicating the curve in the frame and imitating that curve through the wall. Might come out straight through the centre line of the wall however you may be copying the curve of the first at last studs.

[@caleb3470]

The end studs are shot into a wall if done properly they should already be straight

[@pablomax9376]

@@caleb3470 Yes, but that is straight on a different axis. It the board is bowed along the narrow edge, no amount of nailing is going to straighten it.

[@davemyers5197]

Flitch plate guys. Nice work. Have a great year from all at DCE JOINERY AND BUILDING in the uk

[@hendrax5889]

Its a flitch. used in many different ways. just an added layer to give strength where larger timbers can not be used. We use them a lot in the UK for floor and roof joists when head height is a problem. we can change an 8x2 floor joists to a 4x2 floor joist when adding a flitch plate to the side. normally a 10mm steel plate bolted along side, full length, to give it the same structural detail as the 8x2 and gaining 100mm of head height in a conversion project.

[@Carpenters_Canvas]

Always loving new ways I haven’t seen before , thanks

[@thebobloblawshow8832]

I take it technique is only used on non load bearing walls.

[@aspees]

In Australia you can do it on up to 20% of the studs in a house. Load bearing walls can be crippled. The plates and nails take all of the compression load.

[@aspees]

The code is 50% max cut(45mm). Reinforced by 42 x 20 x 600 long on each side with (4) 50mm framing nails per side. In ft/inch cut half way thru a 2 x 4, reinforce it with 3/4” x 2” x 2’ on each side with (4) 2” nails per side.You can cripple any stud in an AU house except for the obvious one(openings, high load, or multiples in a row on a load bearing wall) It’s described with diagrams in the building code framing book.

[@Infinito_T]

oowh nice vid! just what i needed. Now i go searching "how to make wood wedges with SBC"

[@clintjones1193]

Wow Scott there certainly some “professional” commentary on this video, probably most of it from abroad. For those of you experts not in NZ the Radiata Pine we use for the majority of our building grows extremely fast, a lot of it is harvested is 25 years and a lot is grown in pretty crap areas on sides of hills that a goat would find hard work. As such there’s a lot of tension in some of the timber and the rapid growth make it prone to distortion during drying, because of this the grade rules are perhaps a bit more lenient than in some countries because otherwise there would be no recovery but the allowable distortion in the grade rules should be such that it can be straightened with methods such as that shown. I’m not sure on the argument to put them crook all one way as that would put all the tension in the wall in one direction? We just use LvL exclusively - no straightening required

[@sundog8772]

Yes it’s called crowning the studs. We do it here in Canada and it works very well.

[@Albertouy]

@@sundog8772 Chatting to a Canadan tree planter she mentioned pine in NZ grows faster than in Canada

[@sundog8772]

@@Albertouy Right, this was mentioned in the above comment to which I responded. I was referring to the installation of studs with the crown facing outwards to avoid a wavy effect. It’s common practice here in Canada.

[@stephenhamilton9791]

Surely there aren’t level height ways now lol. Came back to rewatch this video, brilliant tips. And I’m a plasterer lol

[@Markus314159]

my dad called them a "scab" when he was a framer. Like a scab covers a wound.

[@themagpie_1]

same

[@flytomahawk2327]

We call em band- aids haha for the same reason.

[@420somewhere4]

Thats what we called it in carpenters union in Chicago.

[@RagedContinuum]

ya it's a scab right? Flitch plates are metal and sandwich with scabs Ithink

[@TONY-nl6yv]

Wow interesting I learn something new . If I ever run into this problem. Ivan do this to one or two stud but not entire wall . Knowing me if I had more then 3 I probably be quicker to just replace the studs . But I like new ideas . Good vid . I ran into this problem once one stud was off I had no more to replace . This is go great idea to for a quick fix .

[@vzgsxr]

1. I call them fish plates here in Australia. 2. Grade and sight your studs as you cut and install them. Cut the very worst lengths up for blocks/noggings. After that I always use the worst 2 studs on the very ends of the wall, that way you can pull the middle of the stud straight as you nail them off against the adjoining wall. If you install all the studs with the spring/bow in the same direction, you will rarely have to cripple them to straighten them. Not many people will notice a 3mm bow in a 2.4 long stud by eye - especially once the plasterboard has been installed. 3. Why use 90x45 framing for an internal wall? Seems overkill. 70x45 is generally more that adequate for 2.4m high internal wall frames.

[@garethryder1144]

Pretty sure thats the standard size in nz from memory

[@slipperygypsy1366]

@@garethryder1144 ASNZ standards

[@vzgsxr]

@Deanoss Last Yes I'm for real, worked for multiple companies that use 70x45 for internal wall frames. (All engineer designed of course). Why throw money away on 90mm internal wall framing unnecessarily? And what is exactly tedious about sighting your timber as you pick it up? Using my eyes before I install a stud saves me having to even get my planer out to straighten the wall. If you have to get your planer out to straighten a newly built wall, then you shouldn't even call yourself a chippy. 😂

[@vzgsxr]

@Deanoss Last I don't know what part of Australia you live in, but 90mm internal frames are not very common in my 20+ years in residential construction. Considering 90% of modern homes have truss a roof, the internal frames are only non load bearing partition walls. So framing them in 90mm is a complete waste of money and materials. Also I'm curious, how is installing a door jamb in a 70mm frame and different from installing in a 90mm frame?

[@vzgsxr]

@Deanoss Last Maybe different code down there? Been building in Sydney my entire life, 70mm walls are common here. Even seen a few external walls 70mm with 600mm stud spacing (definitely wouldn't be doing that one in my own home though).

[@gmailsteve1]

Great trick! Specially if you're paid by the hour.

[@hsiehkanusea]

golden. thx -- saves hours of time.

[@junkyarddawgs9956]

Crown all stud up while lying on the floor when building the wall ,that way you will be able to see each stud beforehand so that you can eliminate bad studs from your pile of studs and put them in a separate pile for other use. This will help in keeping your walls as straight as possible without going through alot of trouble. Just my way not the only way. Nice video will help .

[@justinbennett9998]

Came to say this. My first job as a framer was hauling lumber. When it came time for me to lay out walls for a nailer if I hadn't already culled every single stick I would catch them in the face. You're only going to eat so many 2*4s before you learn to build a straight/flush wall. This is a waste of time and money.

[@MrJak427]

@@justinbennett9998 Well we don’t all live we’re you do A lot of places get prefab walls and roof trusses ie the whole frame gets built in a facility then delivered to site might get left out in the weather for a week if delivered in winter Then you stand the frame up according to a frame trust plan. You must straighten the wall’s when building a house like this otherwise you’d have dark shadows in your walls 😂😂 from all the hollows

[@paulhenderson9585]

I took a job in a plaster suppliers and my mate was building a stud wall,so I checked every length of cls for straightness the boss seen me and kicked off,he said if he wants it straight buy metal stud work,wood is natural and will be bent,i like the way you straighten this I would never have though of it

[@8bitsim]

If you want a straight wall use metal studwork

[@pauln6335]

Agree with metal studs. Some people have started using LSL now as well

[@mjona1754]

@@pauln6335 what's LSL?

[@fordrac1ng81]

LSL = Laminated strand lumber, LVL = laminated veneer lumber. Both used traditionally as beams, but now are getting used as framing lumber for jobs where straight framing is a must.

[@mjona1754]

@@fordrac1ng81 Ah, got you!!! Here in the UK we normally call it gluelam!!!! Didn't realise they did it as small as 100 x 50mm.

[@vincentpaynecole]

Mitch King not to mention carbon sequestration!

[@OldAndGettingOlder]

Nice tip. You make it look easy and I bet it actually is. Thanks.

[@manofausagain]

should first make sure the two studs that you mount your gauge blocks on are straight.

[@wompbozer3939]

manofausagain You’re right man. Most people don’t grasp that concept.

[@cliftonobrien588]

Definitely but it was hard to see if that last stud against the wall was nailed half way up. if not that one stud can throw the whole thing off

[@josargor8179]

that's why i always chalk line my stuns that's butting against a wall if possible

[@johnparker7784]

He should never touch another tool for the rest of his life. He has no idea what he's doing.

[@spartan7golf819]

hahaha! Do it right the first time. I'd fire you if I caught you doing this.

[@paulobersteller4362]

Bro, if I lived in NZ I’d love to be your apprentice. Mint craftsmanship!

[@justinbennett9998]

No you wouldn't. He's teaching you wrong. If you cull your wood properly at the layout this shit doesn't happen. If you're doing this as a framer then you're shit right off the rip.

[@wellhung5929]

@@justinbennett9998 shut up yank

[@stevorider6753]

The "fish plate" we call a cleat in Australia. Great video Scotty.

[@liamthumath7494]

"flitch" plate

[@096killa4]

Apprentice here. We do the same but use 10 mm packers. Works for wall batten for cladding and heaps of other stuff too

[@dangiles5038]

Crowning studs when building a wall ensures if there is any bow in the timber they all run the same way.

[@dirkdiggler5525]

Dan Giles mark a c on the stud in the direction of the crown??

[@owenprince4823]

cutting the studs like that make for a very weak wall. do it right with the crowns all one way. do it right or do not waste your time.

[@brandonfrancey5592]

Strength would matter only if it's structural. This wall is not so it doesn't matter.

[@Markus314159]

He said at the beginning that the wood was straight when they installed it a few days before

[@RiffmuirKennels]

A good stud wall must be crowned or in Scottish terms "roonds all facing same way, which is done prior to fixing looking down length and looking at growth rings on end telling you how it will twist" on building it and you can straighten with eye through the studs to fix any issues as eyeing can fix most issues that are slight. As my old journeyman told me if it looks right by eye its right. Select your timber eradicates all plumb issues in the first place build with crap get crap.

[@freightshayker]

Nice demo. Question: Is there any reason cuts are straight in/90-degrees to length of stud ... as opposed to using a 45-degree cut? Did not know only allowed up to two cuts per stud so thanks for that. Peace of Lord Jesus upon you and yours

[@ItAintMeBabe99]

Interesting !. How do you know that the first & last beams (against the walls) are not bowed? If they are, you might be taking a perfectly straight board and bending it to match the curved 1st beam. Hmmmmm !

[@bunsdad4530]

You are just placing all of the drywall in one plane. But it would be easier to just crown the lumber to start?

[@rangerousdave]

Those "beams" are called studs, and when you frame a wall you straighten the top and bottom plates and plumb the end studs. Therefore when you check straightness you are checking from two end points that are meant to plane out.

[@defy2598]

fuck this is a dumb comment

[@jessethats1972]

* always remember to plum both ends before setting up string line *

[@paulrawlinson8653]

because you checked that before moving on to this step

[@TFfan75]

If you cut the studs with at a 45 degree angle, instead of straight in, you can put a nail through it, to fasten it.

[@alantorrance6153]

Your strengthening plates are "Fish Plates" a metal or wooden plate or slab, bolted to each of two members that have been butted or lapped together. Your "Flitch Plate" is a steel plate or girder between two wooden beams, like a middle/3rd beam in a special truss, to give vertical rigidity, whilst the wooden beams alongside it keep the flitch plate from flapping around like a fish.

[@1starshot]

Correct. The metal plates bolted either side of railway lines to join 2 together are also called fish plates.

[@metaspencer]

What an awesome technique! Love it

[@jbb5470]

Great tip. I never realized you could do this. Thanks for posting

[@AB-nb2ic]

Did you check how the top and bottom plate run? Did you check how far the studs are out over their entire length, or just at that one point? Are they out of plumb, or bowed? Who didn't sight the lumber when you bought it, or at least before installing it? Use better stud, or better yet use steel.

[@fromanabe8639]

You should glue the "flitch" plates, in addition to nailing or screwing them. Just nailing doesn't restore their original strength.

[@VasilyKiryanov]

+100500. So simple - apply a coat of glue on the wedge, and the whole unit becomes even stronger.

[@fanaticz666]

It's just not required in the nz standards to glue it so we don't

[@paulrawlinson8653]

Because of the Gib board each side these studs are only taking vertical loading, so the fish platesreturn more than required integrity

[@peterbarlow8912]

I helps if you put all the stud crowns up when you build the wall laying down on the deck. The wall will have a belly but no waves.

[@peterbarlow8912]

You can also let in a strong back. Notch in a horizontal 2x across the middle of a line of studs.

[@cornpop7805]

Works well, assuming you're two end boards were straigt to begin with. Also, I would use wood glue on the wedges, just for good luck!

[@singlefather01]

I like using a planer to shave rather than breaking the stud. My preference is to use LVL, if I can help it.

[@EDHBlvd]

Flitch, like flitch beam. Thank you Tom Silva.

[@wasim486]

Sorry fish plate and flitch beam are two very different beasts

[@Mr1deerslayer]

Putting one board along the side of another in that fashion is just called "sistering" in the states. It's done a lot with cracked rafters from snow loads

[@jonmiguel]

Correct. Sistering is wood-to-wood. Flitch PLATES are just that, metal plates. The only place I've ever seen wood plates is on "Gilligans Island" and at Pier 1.

[@lancechristy2595]

Sistering is kneeling on one side flitch is sandwiching your structural member between two pieces of plywood, steel, etc, etc We also use a technique called stiff backing or letting in a 2x4 or 2x6 flat on edge to straighten and stiffen walls

[@cabbyhubby]

Framers used to straighten walls years ago, but I havent seen this lately, I wish they still did though, we do use fingerjoint studs which are a tad straighter than traditional studs

[@LegendaryGoetz]

JohnnyBDyer we still crown our studs, wood tends to bend over time anyways. A wall is straight when we put it up, but over time the studs bend over time

[@jonhare392]

I used to work on a framing clean up crew that made sure the walls were straight for the cabinets and such. We used strong backs on big humps and planers to take out little ones on walls before stucco or drywall. We followed the production framers and they were working piece rate. We were hourly and cared a lot more about our end product. In California Desert you could hear the lumber creaking at night as it cooled down.

[@philthy122]

Finger joined is just a fancy way to use firewood.

[@graemedickson7593]

Brilliant video ✌️

[@fordrac1ng81]

We always called those scab boards.

[@josephking6515]

Got directed here from their Nelson home renovation. I don't see what the problem was with Scott giving those studs a wedgie or two. Our house was built new 21 years ago and we don't have a single room that has every wall straight in it and I would have been ecstatic if the _cowboys_ who butchered our build had used wedges to straighten the walls. There is one "wall" that is 750mm long (wide) and it has a 6mm bow in it. Imagine what the rest of the place looks like.

[@JohnComeOnMan]

Ever think of crowning your studs when framing?

[@eols2190]

Doesn't cutting the studs weaken their support ability and strength?

[@charlieobrien5825]

I bet you make lots of money on price work

[@silverfox8801]

Charlie O brien 😂😂😂😂was thinking the same!!!!

[@charlieobrien5825]

@@silverfox8801 not a hater tho wish him well and the channel.i still seem to watch it and i have a big team of chippys going on pretty big projects,dreaming of work and then watching stuff like this is like cool down 😋

[@jeffstanley4593]

Are you the baseball player that wrote "The Cy Young Catcher"?

[@charlieobrien5825]

@@robertwatson818 it's a specific task like in carpentry in Housing here in Ireland it's based on joisting ,1st & 2nd fix and roofing .each job then you put a price on and do tnem.key is to keep the standard the highest and keep work on getting quicker.best of luck buddy

[@gregorybates9081]

Good work is remembered long after the price. FACTS

[@TheBigmongrel]

Good stuff. Even the music was sick.

[@MrTomomahony]

FLITCH as in flitch beam great vid though keep going

[@paulrawlinson8653]

Fish plate. Flitch is a plate of different material sandwiched between 2 timber beams (See Flitch Beam)

[@philippussandt6445]

Scott thanks I'm leaning from you a lesson to trait up a hooden wall frame Thanks friend God bless

[@joshuafulton1625]

It’s very important to note this should never be done on any load bearing wall, partitions only!

[@jaimehewitt2668]

When are stud walls ever load bearing anyway?

[@joshuafulton1625]

Jaime Hewitt every exterior wall is load bearing and many interior walls are load bearing to support floor and roof loads. Basically the more complicated the house is, the more interior load bearing walls you will have.

[@fanaticz666]

Our load bearing walls have at least 5 joined studs under the load point. So I don't think anyone would be doing that over here.

[@paulsharpe3794]

Hi grate method the two brases are fish plates, it comes from the two steel plates that are used to bolt rails together in the steem aria. I don't know how they came to have that name but that's a different story

[@craigmcewan2762]

I call them timber gusset plates or flitch plates, prefer to run my eye down the studs first before constructing the frame so they all bow the same way, perhaps u put them alternate for strength when using this method?

[@tomsmith9048]

I use the same method as you saves alot of messing around also no need for cuts on every timber as every second or third stud will pull the wall within building regulations

[@julvadas]

Thats quite usefull ,never bothered to double check studs after i installed them

[@woodsmith8439]

“Fish” plate. Used in elevators to connect the guide rails. Same principle.

[@adamtwydle3537]

also railway tracks

[@mikesjoinery]

Great vid man, Im a carpenter with 38 years exp and didnt think of that.

[@scorpiuswireless1]

Mike thats because you aint a real carpenter. I knew this when I was 16

[@mikesjoinery]

@@scorpiuswireless1 bit early to be trolling init

[@scorpiuswireless1]

mikesjoinery is a bit sensitive.

[@scorpiuswireless1]

Mike joiners arent framing carpenters and vice versa.

[@LarsonFamilyFarm-LLC]

i have a few walls in my home that have a drywall deflation of 2"....you can see them curve via your eye....most fast home-builders don't spend the time to straighten walls.

[@amtm4185]

Accuracy Marked that’s exactly what happened in a new home I bought. Bowed walls. The builders just don’t seem to take time and put care into their work.

[@SGTMAC7470]

Hey man, try using a laser with 100mm offset 👍

[@user-oo4zo8yy5u]

waste of battery.

[@scottpreston5074]

I have to remark that the general quality of your lumber seems pretty good. Maybe I'm just imagining it, but it also looks like you have actual "2×4" studs. Our lumber companies have been selling us Americans "nominal" 2×4s for a long time. The only actual actual 2x4s I find are in 100 year old buildings.

[@silvebringer1]

Depend where u live i quess.

[@paulrawlinson8653]

Those studs are gauged ex 2 x 4, they end up as 90mm x 45mm (3-9/16" x 1-3/4") Most of our older houses (70 yrs +) have roughsawn 4 x 2 framing

[@barbaromatos8198]

Nice one thank for the tips

[@normferguson2769]

The warped wood studs are why so many carpenters use metal studs. Currently metal studs and wood studs are almost the same price.

[@neilm2033]

Very ingenious.

[@raynoladominguez4730]

Great video, good lesson to learn. Thanks.

[@nlo114]

I select all my lumber carefully, straightest for the verts, cut the bendy bits for the infills. But then I suppose if you are given the lumber with no chance to pick and choose, you have to do with what is available in the time available.

[@br6145]

Why is the lumber dyed pink? Does it denote a rating such as structural/fire retardant, treated etc? Never seen that in the US. Good stuff.

[@ScottBrownCarpentry]

I had a go at answering that in this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZyugGijbc-cpsU it's basically color coding for borer/fungi timber treatments. Our basic grade of timber, the minimum allowed in a house, is almost always pink.

[@br6145]

Scott Brown Carpentry got it! 👍

[@nickalexander5940]

The pink color means its fire rated....

[@frameriteairdrie578]

You must've typed that answer with your cellphone, because it "auto corrected" colour to the American spelling!

[@iatsd]

It's a by product of the treatment it received. The wood for interior framing is lightly treated and the stuff used (boron, usually) leaves it pink. As you go to grades rated for exterior use and submersion you'll see it change colour to green due to the different (copper, boron, and cyanide) chemicals used. www.nztpc.co.nz/hazardClassDescription.php

[@jymonfernandez8087]

New fav KZbin chippy hahha

[@Mahigeer1]

Good video. In US, we use 16" on center and also the drywall is on its long side, so it attaches to more studs.

[@paulrawlinson8653]

That's becoming more common in NZ where this was filmed too. Most Drywall is installed on it's side here, as it reduces the amount of plastering

[@synapticburn]

@@paulrawlinson8653 thanks I have been trying to figure out in all his videos why the framing was so spaced out and why it had horizontal pieces as well. Never would have thought it's just to save time on drywall mud!

[@briankettner2777]

I suggest putting millimeters on top of your block to take out the guessing

[@mariah4451]

Absolutely fantastic tip. Brilliant. Thanks for sharing:-)

[@ДаниилЛев-щ5у]

Glue wedges and fixing boards with glue pur 501.0 Kleiberit. It will be stronger than the frame itself. You are cool. Thank you

[@ДаниилЛев-щ5у]

Bonds everything: concrete, thermally modified wood, wood ~ 30%, plastic, metal.

[@Codger2015]

Flitch plates are typically steel plates used to strengthen wood beam members so in this stud straightening exercise the use of the plywood plate serves a similar purpose, adding strength and integrity to the stud.

[@TheHeavyend81]

A fish plate does a similar job but is steel/wrought iron and used to join railway tracks, however modern railway tracks have longer sections with spring clips.

[@christianwithers7335]

Nope, a fish plate is your lunch or tea, normally served with chips

[@docteurdre8450]

I’m not a carpenter, but i think 99.5% of the contractors don’t do this. may be in Europe