How To Tie The Auto-Block, Prusik And Klemheist Friction Hitches

AMGA Instructor Team Member Patrick Ormond explains how to tie the auto-block, prusik and Klemheist friction hitches.

[@timalgate3709]

All these comments asking for a longer video about which diameter cord to use and when to use which hitches for particular situations, and I’m just grateful for a sub-5 minute video showing all these so clearly.

[@midi510]

I like how you just say what needs to be said and don't ramble on.

[@EricWayneThomasMusic]

Yeah really... I appreciate his brevity also. No lip-flapping Aflamicans and unwanted commercials rammed in my face.

[@mobaumeister2732]

So true! Direct and to the point.

[@billjensen51]

Great video and demonstration. Would like to know some examples of the appropriate uses, but I probably just need to learn these and try them out in a safe, controlled environment.

[@MarkJones]

Would be nice if you had told us why you would use each hitch.

[@bladesboomsnstuff3484]

These are all backup safety hitches for use in rappelling or rock climbing

[@frontpointmedia]

Great instructional from a highly qualified professional. Seriously, he is one of the most highly qualified professionals from whom you could receive this type of training. Amazing what you can get for free on KZbin.

[@LowellSkoog]

There's no mention in the video of whether the klemheist is releasable under load.

[@TreeCamper]

I assume the autoblock is the only one you would want to attempt to release under load

[@themeatpopsicle]

klemheist is also releasable under load

[@AMC-eq3jr]

0.33 Auto-Block 1:30 Prusik 2:50 Klemheist

[@christophh9477]

In switzerland the prusik is the standard rappel backup. Under the loads encountered in this situation its easy to release under load. That said im swiss and still prefer the autoblock. Faster and easier to tie and you dont have to take the cord out of the crab to tie so you cant drop it.

[@singhrobinable]

Very nice sir.....Very easy

[@nauticaltorque]

Could one use the klemeist as a makeshift Jumar (with a sling)? Basically, would it support my weight if i was stuck on a rope solo and needed to lift my weight off the microtraxion?

[@benschuster9792]

I've used a kleimheist tied with a sling as a jumar before to ascend a rope. Just tie it and step into the sling to go up then take up the slack with a belay plate in guide mode or with a grigri then repeat. Also tie knots in the rope periodically so you don't rely entirely on the belay plate/grigri

[@martynwatson4929]

An upside down klemheist is a hedden hitch. It grips in either direction.

[@innovationadventures2721]

Thanks !

[@christianmonturanoii6539]

I'm reading a dean koontz book face if fear where climb down a building to escape a killer. How do rhey keep climbing down alittle at a time. What happens to the rope above once u go down somewhat. Does that rope stay obove because they are climbing down to a ledge then oin down again from there. And hiw do you climb up ? I don't know much about climbing how do you tie a rope going up if your below it lol do you shoot it up ?

[@jakobljungberg4068]

Hi, what is the name and brand of the first orange/yellow prusik loop?

[@rickhaller3328]

Can the Kliemheist be released when under a load ?

[@trailtrashoutdoors8173]

New friends here from Trail Trash Outdoors! 🤠🤙Awsome video!! Love learning new knots while brushing up on the ones I do. Much love -TTO

[@ushi120]

Thx for the very informativ video. Question: What kind of cordolette (differences) do you use for the three hitches (Dimensions and length). Thx in advance.

[@Iithuanianboy]

Hitch chords need to be at least 2mm less in diameter than the rope you're tying it to. so for an 11mm rope you would need at a minimum a 9mm diameter hitch chord. Length depends on the knot you're tying and intended use of the chord.

[@midi510]

@@Iithuanianboy You mean maximum 9mm, right? My Prusik slings are 5mm.

[@matthewthaxton6384]

Whats the difference between the klemheist and the autoblock? It seems like there is just less wraps and not passing the bite through the bottom loop.

[@TreeCamper]

about 1 carabiner. also he says the klemheist is the least grabby of the three demonstrated.

[@caldweller79]

1:02 He says the autoblock has the least holding power of the three. Not the Klemheist.

[@jacklyncheung4993]

Autoblock is bidirectional whereas the Klemheist is unidirectional.

[@mineadventures7938]

I can't see any difference between the klem and auto, just the way you tied it ?

[@stevenp3913]

In auto you clip both loop ends to your carabiner, in Klem you pass one loop through the load-side loop and then attach that free single loop to your carabiner. Auto catches in either direction, Klem only catches in one direction.

[@mineadventures7938]

@@stevenp3913 - got it, thanks🙂

[@Jack_all]

I've been calling my Klemheist a Prusik all this time..

[@thedoddfishtreemonkey.7760]

They are functional hitches but not the best you can use, look at the veldostein tress and distel hitches. You’ll need an eye to eye cord but they are as smooth as butter.

[@FT4Freedom]

Always people showing knots but not explaining the history or conditions of use.

[@jdee2095]

What dip 💩s thumbs downd this? By the way he told us which ones are better for climbing and which work for repelling.

[@gustaverayl1811]

mis named cord configurations are the bane of learning or teaching the ropes. An "auto bloc" is an application and NOT a specific Hitch name. The Kleimheist or "French Machard" is commonly used as an "auto bloc" or "third hand" but is only one of many HITCH es used .There are many types of "Prussiks" and none of them are KNOTS, they are HITCHES. Just as the nick name of "fisherman" is actually a double overhand BEND, A prussic is a HITCH made from cord usually, the cord loop is not a Prussic but is often used to construct one. Don't even get me started on the whole SLING / RUNNER thing. learn the correct terms please.

[@EsotericSyncretism]

Elitist much?