How to Transfer Your Bike Fit (from one bike to another)

[@patrickparisienne1917]

Perfect! This is exactly how I transferred fit across my multiple bikes. It all revolves around the BB. Great instruction!

[@mpicanza4491]

Hi Neill, I just wanted to thank you for a brilliant video. I had a perfect bike fit with my road bike and decided by build myself a steel Audax bike. Initially I was close, but the bike just didn't gel with me as well as my road bike. I did a huge amount of research and bought what I thought was all the right components. Having this systematic approach (and finally the right tools) has not only saved me from spending more money (on what I thought would be a new stem and bars), but I have now dialled in my second bike to virtually match (within 3mm) my Sunday best. The only cost (apart from the tools which are useful for DIY anyway!) is new bar tape!!! I have watched most of your videos and consider you the absolute best at your craft. Thank you once again from me and my wife who thought this was another reason to buy another bike frame....😄

[@buffaloj0e]

Lmao that thumbnail!! Neill looking super impressed about being on another RCA video.

[@roadcyclingacademy]

It’s just a screen grab. Haha

[@roadcyclingacademy]

That's my standard resting face, nothing to see here - Neill

[@felixhotard1686]

Great video! After measuring manually with a level, then a plumb line, I borrowed my neighbor's laser level, which provided a much more accurate measurement for the seat setback. The importance of shooting the laser through the center of each pedal axle and the center of the bottom bracket cannot be overstated.

[@paulwebster4499]

Bloody excellent, I have four bikes, I have always thought that my Argon 18 fits me the best (I purchased this frameset as they make no secret that they use Merkcx frameset geometry) I am now able to set my colnagos up to reflect my Argon 18 using this method. Thank you

[@jesseschenendorf2896]

Best video on how to transfer fit between bikes that I’ve seen! I used it to transfer the fit from my road bike, which has the fit well dialed, to the bike on my trainer. The pain that I’ve been having in my dodgy knee (as you Australians would say) seems to be gone!

[@daveogilbee]

This video. 1000% useful. Can't thank you guys enough

[@alanflores_ca]

Thank you for sharing such valuable content as this. I watched the full video a few days ago and was perfect timing for me. I benefited from experiencing my first professional full bike fitting last week and now I have a way to transfer the numbers to my 2nd bike.

[@1000750]

Good to know this info. Tools needed, add tape measure.

[@Jarek.]

Yesterday I have had my _New Bike Day_. Both bikes, the old and the new one have quite different geometry. And it turned out that the only thing I had to roughly replicate (of course, after leveling the bike 😂) was seat hight. Everything else differs quite a lot. But this is not a surprise. So what I'm trying to say - treat your old measurements only as a starting point and don't be afraid of change. Maybe your position on the old bike was wrong and with the new one you can correct it? Regards!

[@salsalawyer]

Another excellent and VERY useful video. I put this in my playlist for future reference! Thanks for this

[@stevoc123]

Exactly the information I needed. Thanks

[@hemi265mustard]

Awesome video. I have done this but slightly different, i put the bike as vertical as i can b4 it falls over with the rear wheel up agaisnt the wall. Then i measure from wall to centre of BB then wall to tip of saddle (i dont have a lazer and i dont have fishing line and weights lol) then do some maths for setback. I measure from the top of the pedal axle as i have different crank lengths on my 2 road bikes. And then depending on top tube length it will alter what size stem i put on bike aswell. Hoods i have over looked, but what i do with the bulky sram hoods is actually tilt them inwards just a fraction as it makes it more comfortable like using rim brake cable hoods.

[@hemi265mustard]

Oh and on the bike with 5 mm shorter cranks i move saddle forward 2.5mm

[@JayLato]

When do you measure from the 70mm width point of the saddle?

[@Jin_KX]

Can provide more details on how to ensure that the front and rear wheel axles are level? The trainer is already clamping onto the rear wheel axle so I can't put my spirit level against it and level with the front. Any help is appreciated!

[@trentbryan8226]

Awesome info as always guys 👏🇨🇦

[@vijayramachandran3559]

Is there a better anchor place on the saddle than the nose tip? As different saddles may have different lengths...

[@stuartfreedman6854]

Hi Neil. Really informative videos I must say. Hoping this one isn't too old for you to notice my question: what are the considerations if one bike has different crank length (172.5 vs 170) ?

[@shimona500]

Not neil but afaik it affects hip opening with a shorter crank. But you can open hip other ways as well. I don't think however that 2.5mm difference is too big.

[@teunluijbregts2533]

Thanks for the tips Neil 🙏 Here’s another time-tested method. Feel free to test it and report your findings: 1. Set the saddle height 2. Ride a 50 mile route with a spanner in your back pocket 3. Adjust as needed when stuff hurts or threatens to fall off (goes for both bike and body😉) 4. Repeat until perfection is acchieved

[@roadcyclingacademy]

Damn I've never thought of doing it this way. Have to give it a crack next time. Thanks for the tip! - N

[@mangel3490]

Hi guys! I just got a Bikefit and i have changed the saddle after my Bikefit. My new saddle is 7mm shorter. What is the correct method to mesure Then? Have the same Seatback that i have from my report or move the saddle 7mm forward since it is shorter? If i am moving my saddle forward i will Get the same reach that i was having with my old saddle. But the Seatback will go from -10mm to 93mm Changed the saddle from pro stealth to pro stealth Curved Thanks for help!

[@rafacycle]

How about 1st if your new bike has a different crank length? Eg. Before 172,5 new 175? And 2nd if you have different pedals eg you move from road to gravel? Thanks

[@williamsamson2177]

Super useful! Thanks Cam and Neill. Quick question: I'm super comfortable on my road bike, and would love to replicate that comfort on my gravel bike. Obviously, the geometry of the gravel bike is quite different - wheelbase, BB height, seat tube angle etc... Would these measurements and dimensions allow for a transfer of fit between two quite different bikes because they're all relative to the BB?

[@roadcyclingacademy]

Absolutely Will. Frame geometry is irrelevant when you are not measuring the frame - only the contact points. Having said that, you might want a bit less reach and a bit less drop, as well as a shade more seat set-forward on the gravel position to help load the front tyre for traction reasons! - Neill

[@williamsamson2177]

@@roadcyclingacademy Legend. I'll give it a bash.

[@SurpriseMeJT]

Personally, I find replicating positions on a bike with a different geometry does not always work well. A bike's steering geometry, length - it's overall balance would be best optimized with a unique position. However, copying the position of another bike is a good starting point.

[@samuel8590]

What happens when you have a bike that is similar but with a slightly different seat angle? More slack means saddle goes higher or lower?

[@andrewshaida5152]

Hello, how does a 1.5 degree steeper seat angle effect on the saddle setback?

[@MazingerZX]

Great vid! Especially for the n+1 crowd (which is probably everyone watching the vid). Slightly off topic question: Is there an ideal arm position range? Assuming the seat is adjusted properly, the new bike’s bar and handles may have slightly higher/lower/shorter/longer position, aren’t our upper bodies and arms flexible enough to adapt for 20-40cm or even larger number range position differences?

[@roadcyclingacademy]

Bar position tends to reside happily within a 5mm range for most riders in terms of reach, and a 15-20mm range in terms of drop depending on multiple other factors. It's gotta be pretty close! - Neill

[@jonpoon3896]

Am I correct to assume it’s better with a wheel-on trainer than a wheel-off?

[@MrIanD1]

Went from a trek 4.2 to a Biachi Infiniti CV. Longer reach. Still trying to adjust the position.

[@royc6508]

I’ve maybe wrong but I have never tried to replicate settings from one bike to another. I have 3 road and 3 mtb bikes and they are all very different in equipment and riding characteristics. I just set each one to be comfortable for the style of riding (eg one is a climbing bike, the other road one is used on flatter rides. I also feel that changing geometry results in a more rounded development of my legs, back etc. enabling an easy swap from road to mtb to TT. I’d be interested to hear other thoughts on this

[@danielhastings3707]

Totally agree. Ive 2 bikes, an endurance and something a bit racier. Different seat tube angles, different reach, different head tube angle. Ive had to set them up to what feels comfortable as the 2 geometry's just don't interchange at all. I can see if you had 2 bikes with the same geometry this would work.

[@roadcyclingacademy]

Sure, no arguments from me there. But what we are talking about in this video is replicating a position exactly, if you've purchased a new bike and wish the position to be identical. - Neill

[@chdu7414]

I’m guessing this wouldn’t work well going between 2 mtb , with different head tube angles

[@dan2304]

What about the crank length?

[@jerryavalos9610]

If the new bikes geometry is different than the old bike, the measurements cannot be used. I found that where the laser or plumb bob fell from my knee on the old bike in relation to the pedal spindle, that is where I want the new bike to be at.

[@davet003.5]

Hey Neill - If the old bike had a 175mm crank and the new bike has a 165mm crank, is the adjustment to your method as simple as deducting 10mm from the saddle to BB dimension and then replicating the reach (saddle tip to top of hoods)? Cheers and thanks for the video

[@yiy40645]

Want to know this, too! I have a 172.5 on my steel bike but 150 on the carbon one. To me, when the dimensions are the same (with the crank length deducted), it feels like I have more pressure on my hands when peddling at threshold. So I increase the setback (and maintain other dimensions accordingly) to make it "feel" the same.

[@roadcyclingacademy]

a 10mm shorter crank will mean you will likely need to raise the seat somewhere between 7mm and 15mm, depending on how much more easily your CNS can control the decreased leg extension velocities and how much you tend to increase your cadence. There's no exact rule but it will likely be within this range. The setback is anybody's guess - sometimes it goes forward and sometimes it goes backwards, depends on what happens with your pelvic rotation when the cranks shorten. - Neill

[@sandro2304]

CASA DE LA NEIL!!!

[@jmluisdeoliveiramore]

Spent about 500 miles on it and so far so good. kzbin.infoUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA Pros:1. Very light2. Solid quality build3. Fast delivery: It arrived 5 weeks earlier than expected.4. Easy assemblyJust a few cons but nothing major:1. Cheap tin tubes and had flat on first day... but not a big deal. I replaced the tubes.2. Seat is a bit uncomfortable but that's pretty much the same situation with most bikes.3. Seat post is a bit long/high for a smaller size 48 bike - had to saw 2 inch off to fit properly. The lowest setting is too high. The post locking system does not seem to hold well (perhaps because I saw 2 inch off).4. wheels are not tubeless compatible (from what I can tell)

[@enigma1000]

You need to make sure the bike is level before you start….

[@pavlos..]

Does the bike need to be level before we start taking all of these measurements?

[@dan_lazaro]

Ideally yes, but this is my personal opinion. Since a perfectly level place to measure ensures you actually have a reliable measurement unless you can perfectly replicate the angle you're bike is on when you transfer the measurement to the new bike.

[@roadcyclingacademy]

Nah man just wing it, as long as it's kinda on the floor you'll be right! - Neill

[@savagepro9060]

Rim Brakes . . . Yess! I couldn't help myself!

[@roadcyclingacademy]

Love this bike. Can't think why I would ever want to change. I can pull it apart and rebuild it completely with no special tools in about 2 hours. Some fancy carbon wheels (just installed after this video) and she's even better! - Neill

[@savagepro9060]

@@roadcyclingacademy respect!

[@leonschumann2361]

SUS? 0:13

[@boGardoN]

I literally have none of those tools (minus pen) lol.

[@occyman]

The way he measures tip of the saddle to mid bar by adding three sets of numbers is silly…. Just measure tip of saddle to mid bar, same thing without the maths. bike fitters always like to make it more complex than it is.

[@barrycalvert1009]

I see your point. Maybe consider this as to why it is important to measure seat setback from the mid-line is the method that @Road Cycling Academy is using. It is important to take the measurement from the tip of the seat to the mid-bar for sure. For seat position, I want my seat in the same position relative to the cranks on my new bike as it was on the old bike. I would then measure from the seat tip to the mid-bar on the new bike. If after I get the seat position set on the new bike, the seat tip to mid-bar measurement is not the same as the old bike, I would adjust my reach by making changes in the length of the stem or a different bar. Once the proper seat tip to mid-bar measurement is achieved, I know I have a very similar geometry for my body contact points as on my old bike. The new bike may have a different ride feel based on the geometry of the frame but I should still feel comfortable on the bike. From this starting point, it is a matter of making adjustments that maintain the comfort and health of your position on the new bike as well as meeting your expectations for ride feel and performance. In my opinion, keeping the same relationship of the pelvis to the BB on the new bike is safest for the knees and feet. The reach can be dialed in based on the comfort and performance characteristics you are trying to achieve.