How to Use a Slider While Shooting Time-lapse Videos - With Motorized Slider and Syrp Genie

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

Thank you for watching! Hopefully you found this video useful, or entertaining. Let me know if you have any questions!

[@1.4142]

I'm learning photography in school rn so this is perfect.

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

Well I hope it helps out! It is a little more specific to certain things, but still fun stuff anyway! Time to make more videos??

[@alexeylysenko7368]

A definitely useful, no-nonsense video, spectacular views, great results. Thanks for sharing!

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

Glad you enjoyed this, and thank you very much for watching!

[@boycefitzgerald]

These time lapses are dreamy good. Especially like the hoodoo motion. Very dynamic.

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

Thanks again! I need to make more videos like this :) for fun that is.

[@wc1297]

Thanks Wes! Lots of really helpful information. I need to get a slider now!

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

I am glad it helped out. They can be fun to use for sure!

[@chicagocraig]

Lovely tutorial. You are the best! So nice of you to share. How about one in Merida? I'll meet you there and help production

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

Can't believe that has been like 15 years now! Still lives in my brain as if it wasn't that long ago. Need a sponsor to pay for the trip then we can go shoot something, anything!

[@nightscapeimages.richard]

What a great video Wesley. Some really helpful advice there my friend. Take care. Richard

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

Thank you! There is always so much more information to add. Seems that there can be a lot of basic troubleshooting with the whole scene and settings, wind, angles, battery. But when it works out then it can be awesome!

[@timefilming]

nice vlog & review! I don't have any slider, so I animate some motion in post 😃 (I know it's not the same)

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

I think any motion is better than none, even in post it still works for sure! I do that all the time too.

[@liquidxxvi]

Great info, what settings do u recommend to do a milky way timelapse. Heading this weekend to lost lake OR to my first milky way timelapse.

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

Thank you for watching. For milky way I am normally around f2.8 ISO 4000 and depending on your focal length I shoot around 8-15 second exposures. I like to go as wide as possible too, like 14mm, but it all depends on your end goal. Focusing while super wide can be tough. It is a good idea to test your manual focusing while it is light out still so you know where you need to set it. Also if the moon is out that can change how long your exposure should be. I like to start at iso 1600 and work my way up taking test shots. Remember the back of your screen will look bright at night so make sure when you preview your photos that you really do have enough light captured. Once you really feel good about your settings and focus then I shoot continuously (little to no gap in between shots) I hope this helps you out! Good luck!

[@DMielke]

Whats your favorite lense mm wise, to go for?

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

That is a tough one as it depends what I am shooting. But I would say probably say I shoot an average around the 20mm mark. I have a Rokinon 20mm f1.8 for that reason. But I have a 14-24mm, a 16-35mm, and 17-35, that would be the most used lenses overall while using a slider. If you got superwide just make sure your slider is out of the shot. I have captured it a few times.

[@volkansorkun]

Nice vid, Are you you using any Deflicker at post?

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

Thank you! Now days I run everything through LRTimelapse. Then I can do different adjustments and get rid of flicker if I have any.

[@volkansorkun]

@@Wesleyastonphotography Yes, lately I tried that as well once you get familiar with even if the free version is doing great stuff. Thank you!

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

@@volkansorkun I started with the free one too, then had longer than 400 shot timelapses and upgraded, then again I upgraded to the pro from the personal. It is a very handy program.

[@superbmediacontentcreator]

You didn't talk about your exposure. Are you shooting in manual or with any A or S priority? Are you shooting in video or in RAW on your Sony/etc? Hint: if you're running on an incline run a string and a water bottle as a counterbalance to take the strain off the motor.

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

You are correct I didn't talk about my timelapse settings cause this was more about the slider and movement and not the timelapse setting details. A string and weighted item is good for the Syrp slider, even the track as a wheel on the side to make that work easy. My other slider has enough power to go straight up. It will pop the belt if you don't stop it is is so strong. As for settings I am up for conversations about what I do for those that would like to know more. For the most part I shoot RAW photos, using the build in intervalometer on the camera in Aperture priority. My sony cameras I set the AE Tracking Sensitivity to LOW, (most of the time) that way the shutter speed will automatically change as the sky fades into a sunset. Then the shutter will get longer as it is needed. I only use manual for night time or if I don't want any settings to change. As for what shutterspeed you can do what you want, but depending on your scene you will want to dial it in to something specific. For example I like a very slow shutter and use dark ND filters to blur out birds or smooth water. Birds are the worst in a timelapse. If you would like to discuss more I am all for it. Thanks for watching!

[@superbmediacontentcreator]

@@Wesleyastonphotography Happy 2024 (this is written in January). I do appreciate your lengthy reply and yes, I would like to know more about your thought process of precognition which is the problem I have wrapping my mind around time lapses. As a photographer that is relatively easy with 56 years of my still background. I fell in love with variable ND filters and "halfs" some time ago. I started using the Kessler system for live broadcast production (which is where I come from) and then got into it for time-lapse. Just as you commented it will rip the belt right off itself if allowed to and will work vertically with heavy broadcast cameras but I found it cumbersome to carry, support, and configure not to mention all the configurations of the Kessler intervalometer so it put me off using it for some time for time lapses. In the urban environments I am in it makes me nervous to have too much gear all spread out without some sort of security. I have migrated to the edelkrone system for product imagery as well as promotional imagery such as high-end car promotion. I like the compound 'Z' axis movement (not just linear) that I can get with it as well as the ease of programming the App. My mind sees in pictures not in all the math so being able to work with the image composition and just move the camera to a "position" rather than try and put in a lot of data is "freeing" creatively while getting the sort of accuracy of composition I demand as a DP. I hope I am communicating appropriately but what I am trying to get to is being able to pre-conceive a time-lapse as I would a general live-action real-time movement sequence is why I asked the questions I did. This is what escapes me. For instance, I want to be able to look at a situation and be able to gauge how long I need to be on-site to get a given sequence. This is where I like the edelkrone App so much since it asks me some of the basic questions and works out the math for the user. Perhaps you can do a video in say three or four basic situations (such as traffic off a bridge during the day and at night, people in a mall, a general landscape, an airport during the day and at night) and break down the thoughts of how long you have to be there, what sort of look you think is best in a given situation and how long a sequence you want to generate in the given situation. It's not so much about the exposure except with regard to long and short exposure but the pre-conception process. I think these would be good basic videos and get a lot of interest.

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

I used to shoot a lot more timelapses, but this past year I really slacked, and I don't even know if I used the sliders at all. That is kind of odd, so this year I need to change that up. We have an Edelkrone where I work and I am familiar with how it works. It is pretty slick. We did mostly live videos with it and my only complaint is if my phone went to sleep then when I needed to make an adjustment then I had to reconnect the devices and remake my key points. But for the movements and loops it was very handy. It mostly sits in a case now days and my boss wants to sell it. I know I need to take the next step in creativity and shooting better timelapses. I got so sucked into just shooting storms that everything else was on the back burner. But I like your idea for other videos and subjects. That will have to be something I add to the list for this year. Part of that will be motivation to shoot more too. The more you shoot the more you start to look at everything as if you were shooting a timelapse and the same for adding motion too. The internal battery for my Syrp panning no longer holds a charge so I need to figure out something for that to maximize the motion this year. I hope your 2024 is a great one!

[@superbmediacontentcreator]

@@Wesleyastonphotography Thank you for your reply and I do hope you make some of the videos. I guess we are bookends since I was one of the first 100 Steadicam Operators in the world and see everything in full motion. Now I'm too old so I went to motion control and now am adding the time-lapse thing. Anyway, I get the 'Z' axis thing from the Steadicam that of course was a big advance over a dolly which like a slider just is linear motion. We kid that the better you get at being a Steadicam Operator the slower you go as moving fast just starts looking like a horror film. I do have four small gimbals to keep my hand in the moving camera thing. The last music video I shot with the Merlin prosumer Steadicam and a Sony Camcorder you can see linked below. If you watch the "pool" shot just before the pan right you can see my water bottle on the bar (RSB STEADICAM) it was actually my marker for the pan but the band's producer let me keep the "font" in. I don't use my phone with the edelkrone systems (I have three) as I seem to suffer from "Fat Finger Syndrome" (actually having very long nails hampers me a bit too but well... fashion). I use a tablet which resolves things and gives me better control. You can also adjust the time-out for the sleep function which you obviously know. I should have kept my mouth shut since I am looking for a used edelkrone PanPRO to add to my JibONE system and not finding one is driving me crazy. Ha, ha, ha... kzbin.info/www/bejne/bpOpeH2Of9drmLs

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

It sure is crazy how things have been changing with motorized gimbals now. I haven't seem anyone use a steadycam in person for years now. I know they are still out there though, and mostly on bigger productions. I think my boss sold his years ago. Smaller, lighter, and faster is what people are going for now days. We did have a tablet for the edelkrone to use too, and that I shutoff the timeout screen, but it was an older slower one. We do have the remote that goest with it, but the app is way faster. Updates too forever with it too. I wonder why they replaced the PanPro with the HeadOne. They look similar. I saw a panpro on ebay. That does work nicely with the JibOne. I did see your bottle. Not sure anyone would really think it didn't belong there. Nice!

[@davidkoretskyi]

How to connect canon r5 to one motion controller from syrp?

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

Most likely using this cable, Syrp 3C Link Cable.

[@davidkoretskyi]

@@Wesleyastonphotography thanks)

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

No problem!

[@QuanTranVisuals]

Does the slider stop to when the camera takes picture then moves after that.

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

You can set it up that way. I only do that for star shots when I need a long exposure.

[@QuanTranVisuals]

@ oh I see. For long exposure star shots you need the slider to stop to prevent blurry shots. Otherwise for normal timelapse it is ok that the sliders moves steadily and the camera takes photos independently. Is that right?

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

@QuanTranVisuals yes that is correct!

[@QuanTranVisuals]

@@Wesleyastonphotography thank you very much for your confirmation. Really appreciate it.

[@frednorman1]

2 shots a second OR a shot every TWO seconds for clouds?

[@Wesleyastonphotography]

You caught me! 1 shot every 2 seconds. That would be way to many if I shot 2 every second. Glad to see someone was paying attention! 😀