How to wire a 7.3 Powerstroke (Powerstroke Swap Pt. 4)

Here it is! After months of filming random stuff in the garage and trying to sort through hours of footage, hopefully I made something coherent. There is a lot of information dumped in here, and if it's a little rapid fire, I apologize. The first 10 minutes are meant to be as concise as possible, while the remainder is meant to be all the other details I included in my project. Let me know in the comments if it makes sense!

[@battlebornspeed9696]

I’m basically doing the same thing with a 78 so this is amazing help

[@rubenvasquez021]

Me to man I’m working on a 79

[@FarmerDrew]

This is my summer project. I've got an 88 DRW, and a 01 SRW, going from a 2wd auto truck to a 2wd zf5. After seeing your video on wiring, and since I have the donor truck, it couldn't be easier, I'm even more inspired.

[@torchbaugh]

I’m running an 89 DRW and 97 SRW, how’s the project coming along?

[@Ulfstigandr]

Im gunna be rewatching this several times. The part that i cant believe is that you found any substantial parts for a 7.3 at a jy.

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

I'm always happy to answer questions! Hopefully the video was straightforward

[@MrAndymanrocks]

Simple to wire the PATS if equiped. Run 2 wires to PATs module from PCM for data, then keep a key taped to the cylinder pickup sensor. Literally just a few wires to keep it working

[@j.c.smithprojects]

you may consider using a "continuous duty solenoid". those "relays" that you are using are usually for momentary load. it may not hold up to your intended use.

[@matthewTanklinhall5248]

Awesome video with excellent explanation. You have helped me tremendously! Thank you!!

[@dennyo3992]

I really appreciate this video! I’m doing the same thing and took the entire wiring harness from the donor truck. Having it out on a bench unwrapped to de-pin the PCM and eliminate the lights and HVAC stuff is a bit intimidating! I think I’m going to leave the stock harness from the truck as intact as possible and run the PSD harness in parallel. Had to buy a rear axle, didn’t realize the auto trans and speedo wouldn’t work without that VSS input, and the axle was cheaper than figuring out a speedo and trans controller work around. Never occurred to me that Ford wouldn’t have the VSS on the trans itself.

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

I think the reason Ford doesn't run a vss on the transmission is because they are using the axle vss for ABS as well as speedometer, cruise control, and transmission shifting.

[@DPelicanGaming]

Hey man i did this same swap and it worked if i left the guage cluster plugged in but im trying to delete all them wires. How does changing the axle make it shift without the cluster

[@dennyo3992]

@@DPelicanGaming If you have a manual transmission you don’t need the axle VSS or the cluster. If you are using a non-electronically controlled automatic transmission like a C6, you don’t need them. If you are using an E4OD or a 4R100 and you want the stock computer to shift them you need the VSS axle and the cluster. There might be an aftermarket transmission controller that doesn’t need the cluster or the VSS, I don’t know.

[@DPelicanGaming]

@@dennyo3992 isint there something i can tear out of the inside of the cluster or a single sensor i can buy the cluster is really huge in my truck as im useing a alumnum plate guage setup in my dash it looks really stupid haveing 2 clusters in the truck lmao

[@mariefeely972]

Thank you! I have learned so much. How you do this is so very amazing! Wow!

[@davidmcelroy4552]

I can’t wait to get my 97 7.3 and put it in my 79! The 97 is an original 5 speed and I have the entire truck! I would love any tips and tricks and I’m sure I’ll be watching this a lot!

[@RollingThunder85]

I'm having throttle pedal issues and haven't swapped anything iv replaced the entire assembly but when I shift gears if I let up off pedal I lose it for about ten seconds and then comes back what do I do now? I have a 94.5 5spd drw with hydra and fuel bowl delete, and regulated return ty for any input on this.

[@blackshine007]

Great video with lot's of very useful information 👌 👍 👏

[@museuminsider1814]

its a shame that you couldn't show which wires you eliminated from the PCM. I am still working on which need 'jumpered' for (my) thing to work. Thanks for the video, much 7.3 info is hard to find.

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

If you are using an ECM from a 7.3 automatic, and are converting to manual, you can delete the pins related to the transmission. I don't think cruise control will work either, so you can eliminate those pins. For my 1996 engine those are pins 1,4,27,28,29,31,37,53,64,81,92. Google a pinout for your model/year Powerstroke. The pinout shows the location and wire color. 98 and up engines use a different pinout.

[@dennyo3992]

Three things for anyone transplanting a 7.3 with an auto; get the Ford Electrical and Vacuum manual (a Haynes or Chilton’s ain’t gonna cut it),try to get the whole harness from the donor (under hood and cab), and don’t cut wires! Depinning connectors isn’t that hard, and you’ll be glad when you realize that one of the wires you removed is actually needed. Then you’ll be able to find the correct color wire in your spare wire bin and put it right back where it was!

[@christophercortez6224]

Grade A, you are excellent of you tutorials and I really do appreciate it, do you have a donation box you have been a big help excellent

[@justinhenry2249]

Just the video I was looking for. I just bought a 99 4x4 to stick a 79 body on and didn’t want to run the factory 99 column and gauges. I put Dakotas in my 68 Bronco and planned to do the same thing this time. I guess the my question would be, does anyone reflash the ECM to disable the PATS system on the later models? Bitchn video by the way, alsoI live in Chico not far from ya. 👍🏻

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

I've seen PATS delete services on eBay, but I haven't used any so I can't recommend any to ya. Also considering your in CA like me you probably have a CA powerstroke with a different flash and potentially different engine hardware, so be sure to do some research on it.

[@braapmaster6943]

There's alot to process in this video but it's full of great info. Gunna be putting a obs 7.3 with a 5spd into a 1979 GMC 1ton dually crew cab. It's gunna be a massive swap and no idea how I'm gunna make it work have a complete parts truck so guess I'll figure it out along with this video.

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

If you have a little more than a couple pennies to spend I'd say get a dakota digital cluster. It'll give you tach, speedo, and a bunch of other stuff. I'd also say since it's going in a GMC you're going to have to make engine mounts and modify your transmission crossmember for the rear transmission mount. As far as wiring the engine, it just needs power to the relay block and you have to keep the ECM and IDM relays. The only necessary wiring from inside the cab of the obs is the OBD2 connector, the 3 wires for the pedal sensor, the 2 wires for the pedal input sensor, and the 5 amp fuse for the pedal input sensor. You will need a wire from "ignition-on" to power up the ecm. Since yours is a 5 speed you will have a lot less wires to deal with. Sounds like a cool project!

[@braapmaster6943]

@@humboldthillbilly1848 awesome thanks I'm glad there will be a few less wires then what I watched you deal with holy crap. Was gunna pull the entire cluster and dash anyways but was sure what all I needed from behind it. Atleast I have a great place to start now :) thanks. Like I said I'll be refering to this video many time over the summer lol

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

@@braapmaster6943 If you have the time, pull all the wiring and sort it out later. It's always better to have more than what you need versus less.

[@braapmaster6943]

@@humboldthillbilly1848 definitely will do gunna keep everything but the kitchen sink. Might even keep it not far from reach haha. Should just have a man like you build the harness. You could make a killing doing this stuff for people

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

@@braapmaster6943 I've thought about it but at this point I'm still a few years away from selling plug-and-play harnesses or offering a service. There is a guy on KZbin called Mark Fugazzo who does offer Powerstroke harness services.

[@kcermit1]

Really great vid! Are you in Humboldt CA? I am in West County Sonoma and have two 7.3 PS swaps I am working on.

[@raymondclass6794]

Honestly would the best thing to do is spray the bundle with liquid electrical tape when installing a new one?

[@j3ffbrooks]

I’m working on a 1996 7.3L swap into a 1965 F100. I bought an engine and ZF5 only, then sourced an engine wiring harness to the firewall only with IDM and automatic PCM. Trying to run this on the engine stand before I attempt to install in the truck. I have power to the pcm and IDM but won’t fire. Has new IPC but haven’t replaced crank sensor yet. What do I need from the firewall connector to make this work?

[@williamsilliam]

Great info! I have a 89 bronco and 03 7.3 power stroke complete automatic truck. Could I just replace the entire dashboard with wiring to fit in the bronco? I don’t mind the super duty dash. Thanks

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

@williamsilliam If you can make the dash fit then I don't see why not. The other things to consider is dash mounting being different, as well as the steering colum. The wiper and highbeam switches will be different too. If you can figure out how to mount the superduty dash and steering colum in your 89 and make them play nice with your pedals you should be good. The firewall bulkhead connectors are different, but you can cut out the 03 sheet metal and rivet it to your firewall you could make the 03 bulkhead connectors work.

[@williamsilliam]

@@humboldthillbilly1848I appreciate the insightful reply. I’m not sure if you’ve seen the black 6.0 power stroke bronco floating around KZbin, but someone swapped I believe an 08+ super duty dash, and yeah it took some adjusting. It seems you have seen behind the dash of these old trucks so I thought I’d run it by you. Thanks and good luck with your projects!

[@KyleStout-dh4fp]

Did your tach wire coming straight from the pcm into the Dakota digital box end up working or did you have to change how you did it?

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

I fed the tach signal to my Dakota Digital tach and speed sensor module first. It gives more adjustability in output.

[@lht6160]

I have a 94 7.3 idi factory turbo truck that I want to swap to 7.3psd I have a 94 psd truck for a donor how plug and play will that swap be (strictly talking electrical) there the same body style and manual

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

I'm actually in the middle of essentially the exact same swap, except my truck is a 1989, so it's a little more complicated. Since both your trucks are the same generation, you are in a good place. The underhood wiring should be swapped, since you will need the wiring for the psd and IDM. The interior wiring under the dash will be slightly different too, so I recommend swapping either the harnesses or the dashes with the harnesses attached. The harness that runs from the firewall down the frame to everything behind and under the cab is exactly the same. The bulkhead Connectors at the firewall will be the same shape, but the main bulkhead connector will have more wiring. This is why I recommend swapping harnesses. If you swap the whole harness, you can plug everything back in and it will all work. Don't cut any wires, ford designed the harness in three sections, and the sections will swap from the psd truck into your idi truck 100%

[@tomlord5652]

Did the 7.3 Power Stroke match up with the truck's original transmission? I'm putting a 7.3 in place of my 6.0 Power Stroke.

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

The Powerstroke engine in my truck replaced the older Navistar IDI. Fortunately both engines use the same zf5 transmission. Later model Powerstrokes use the zf6, but in my experience with the 6.0 Powerstrokes they have a completely different bellhousing pattern than other Powerstrokes. Also the 6.0s have a lot more integrated transmission wiring.

[@RobertBurt-ms3rb]

Could you build me a standalone harness

[@timsmith1106]

If by some stroke of luck you see this comment nearly a year after you posted this can you clear up a few things for me. The red/green coming from fuse 22. Does that have to go anywhere other than from the fuse box to the ignition relay? Also if I run that to the relay and ignition power to the same side I should have key on power correct?

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

The large red/green from fuse 22 only needs to go to the ignition relay. Normally it goes through the firewall to the ignition switch cluster under the factory steering column and gets activated when you turn the key to the ON position. Not 100% clear on the second part of your comment so here's the whole story: Your standard 4 pin relay has two sides. The CONTROL side and the SWITCHED side. The CONTROL side sees power coming from your key switch one one pin and ground on the other pin. The SWITCHED side should have constant 12 volts from the battery on one pin, and the circuits you want to send power to on the other pin. So basically you will have 2 small wires going to opposite pins for your CONTROL, one large wire going from battery to a pin on SWITCHED, and all the wires you want to activate with the key (including red/green) on the opposite SWITCHED pin. Clearest answer I have.

[@BuildingWithRane]

Fantastic

[@KyleStout-dh4fp]

What rear end did you use? What did you do about your vss?

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

I used the stock 10.25. Because I had a manual transmission, I didn't really need the VSS but I did use the sensor off the differential to drive my Dakota Digital speedometer. If you're using the automatic, you either have to use your PSOM behind the factory speedometer, or you can convert the signal to a 10k ppm signal with a Dakota Digital speedometer/tach interface module. You have to have something to convert the signal or else the ecm won't shift the transmission.

[@sarahmcsween2271]

What was your solution for power brakes ? I’m doing a 7.3 swap in my 65 f250 and didn’t know if I was gonna run a vacuum pump or hydroboost

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

Right now I'm running the vacuum pump with a large superduty vacuum reservoir and master/booster off a superduty 5.4. I tried hydroboost long ago and didn't like how it felt when braking. If I had a heavier truck and towed really heavy I'd probably go with hydroboost however. If your 65 has a vacuum booster and you are fine with how the thing brakes I'd stick with that.

[@mikebrimm1872]

I would be interested in a copy of that wiring diagram there

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

Not exactly sure how I can share that directly via the comments, but I can say that I found it on the powerstroke forums when I googled 1996 7.3 powerstroke wiring diagram and 1996 7.3 powerstroke ECU pinout

[@mikebrimm1872]

@@humboldthillbilly1848 thank you I’m attempting to put a 1998 7.3 powerstroke in a 1990 f 350

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

@@mikebrimm1872 Not 100% sure engine mounts might be a little different, but if they are you can always swap the mounts for the earlier Powerstroke mounts. Then the engine will bolt in to your frame. Wiring should be really similar chassis wise. For the engine harness just leave it alone. Integration of the two harnesses is probably the most time consuming part of yer swap.

[@mikebrimm1872]

@@humboldthillbilly1848 I’m going to connect my 1990 engine harness to the 1998 engine harness via fuse box under hood from the 1998

[@marcuswallstrom4523]

@@humboldthillbilly1848 i am doing a swap in to my crewcab bullnose and everything is in place . Just starting to figure out the wiring and i cant find the diagrams on any forums

[@ajpkustomz]

Putting a 7.3 in my b model Mack rat rod project and I’m not going to use the firewall plug do you know which pins you connect the obd2 wires back to on the pcm to still use it without messing with the firewall plug thanks in advance ! Very helpful video by the way!

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

Depends on the model year 7.3. There are some differences between California and non-California trucks as well. For 49 state and superduty trucks it should be pins 13, 15, and 16. You will also need both grounds as well as 15A fused constant power.

[@ajpkustomz]

@@humboldthillbilly1848 thanks for the quick reply ! And sorry guess I should have mentioned that it’s a 95 engine

[@oldschool6345]

@@humboldthillbilly1848 Are there many differences in wiring harnesses for pre-99 (or OBS) 7.3 powerstrokes? I know the auto to manual gig but If it's the same truck (just say f350 7.3 with manual trans) but one is a '95 and the next is '97 are they running the same harnesses(excluding California trucks)?

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

@@oldschool6345 There might be some subtle differences for 1997, but all the 1994-1996 engines should be the same minus the transmission wiring, even the California engines. 1997 was the first year for emissions, so those 97 California model Powerstrokes I believe are more similar to the 98 and newer Powerstrokes. If your engine is not a California model, then all 94-97 Powerstrokes are the same.

[@oldschool6345]

@@humboldthillbilly1848 Well I thought so but.... you're way deeper than I've ever been in the harness and appreciate the info! Thanks

[@danrivers4102]

Have you ever thought about offering this as a service? I’d be more than willing to pay to get this done.

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

I've thought about it, but I'm still on the fence. Biggest reason for me not currently offering a harness is because of integration. I can make these engines run on the ground with a few wires, but it's a whole different animal to have an integrated harness with cruise control, OBD2, automatic transmission controls, A/C, etc that has the correct wire lengths and plugs in to someones custom swap project.

[@danrivers4102]

@@humboldthillbilly1848 I literally just want the engine to run, ac idle wires and the data link connector. I don’t want cruise and I’m using a zf5. Planning on keeping me 78 gauge cluster and all that.

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

@@danrivers4102 How are you going to run your speedometer? If your zf5 is 4x4 then you might be lucky and have the special 1356 transfer case with the speedometer gear. Otherwise the signal will be electric which won't drive your mechanical speedometer. For the other instruments the stock sending units on the Powerstroke will talk to your original cluster just fine.

[@danrivers4102]

@@humboldthillbilly1848 np205 bolts right up to a zf5. Just have to notch the tail housing for the shift rail on the 205 to clear. I’ve done it to a few of them.

[@somethingsomething3718]

@@danrivers4102 Will the 205 hold up well to a 7.3? I have one, but I plan to put the truck to serious work and need it to last.

[@kennethmabus381]

Do you know if the 98' and 99' wiring harness and IDM are the same besides the intake heater and solenoid?

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

Late 98 should be the same as the 99 harness and IDM. There are only resistor differences in the IDMs of various years. The newer 7.3s have the 120v IDMs for more injector pulse.

[@kennethmabus381]

@@humboldthillbilly1848 oh do the 120v IDM models have different injectors? I have a 99 f450 I put a engine in that had the intake heater and solenoid. But I just used the harness from the prior engine. Get ICP pressures and IPR% scanning. Reads exhaust back pressure, Oil temp. Does injectors buzz test. But won't start.

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

@@kennethmabus381 The IDMs are all interchangeable, just the higher voltage ones put out more injector pulse for more power. The 94-97 injectors are different than the 98-04 injectors (single shot versus split shot), and if you have the wrong ones in the engine they won't work right due to the drivers in the ECM (not the IDM) being different.

[@ericjohnson7538]

My question is did the motor mounts lineup for the 7.3 in your truck?

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

The motor mounts for the 97 and older Powerstroke are identical to the IDI motor mounts, so if you are swapping into a frame that had an IDI originally it will bolt in with zero modifications. 98 and newer 7.3 Powerstrokes will need their mounts replaced with the early motor mounts. My 1973 pickup is sitting on a 1984 frame, so the motor mounts were the same.

[@nasty379]

Any idea how to keep the factory speedo as im running the e40d with my 78 project

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

How good are you at welding plastic? You can trim down the newer instrument cluster to fit and then weld the rim of the 78 cluster to that. Then you can screw 78 lens on and have the newer instruments in the 78 housing. Another option, albeit pricey, is to buy a Dakota Digital VHX or RDX instrument cluster for a 78 ford, and use a Dakota Digital speed signal converter to replace the psom. The ecu needs an 8000 ppm signal to properly shift the transmission.

[@nasty379]

Ok thanks man. I might look more into dakota…..wanna and try to keep it vintage correct

[@foorodgarage5386]

Did you absolutely have to use the body lift to get it to clear the downpipe? Or could you get by without it?

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

Depends on what you're swapping. My 1973 is on a 1985 f350 frame, so the body lift was due to the differences in the frame. I have a 1977 f350 2wd on a stock frame with no body lift with my other 7.3 and I have plenty of room for a downpipe. It had to be rerouted a little but it fits easy. If you can set the engine forward so your bellhousing bolt heads line up with your firewall you should have plenty of room.

[@dennyo3992]

I’m in the process of putting a 7.3 Powerstroke in my ‘85 F250 that came with a 6.9 IDI. I was able to hammer the firewall enough to clear a 4” downpipe, but I had to cut the firewall on the bottom right of the trans tunnel (as you face it from the front) for the cab to clear the motor when lifting the cab on or off. The turbo wastegate arm (using a later SD turbo setup with intercooler) also hit the firewall at the top where it meets the wiper tunnel, so I had to cut it and make a box to give the turbo arm room to move. A T4 turbo upgrade that gets rid of the stock pedestal would have given the room to eliminate that step but wasn’t in the budget for now.

[@daviddenman7479]

Does anybody sell a stand alone harness? I’m looking to put a 7.3 from a 2002 E250 into my 1978 F350….. I hate wiring. I did buy the whole van, just haven’t pulled the engine yet. I’m not using the factory trans, so I just need to control the engine. Thanks

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

Mark Fugazzotto has a KZbin channel. He's mentioned before that he'll build a standalone harness for $275 plus shipping if you mail yours in.

[@jakepetersen677]

96 formerly automatic 7.3 into 87 formerly with a 4 speed now with a zf5. I'm using the 87 firewall plug and repinning it. Besides the throttle pedal stuff is there any reason thats a bad idea?

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

Not a bad idea at all as long as you have enough space for all the pins you need in the 87 plug. You might have some idle and throttle issues with the ecm being automatic. I sent mine off to Complete Performance for a manual hardware swap. If all of the required circuits are preserved and properly connected it'll run just like it did in the original truck.

[@jakepetersen677]

@@humboldthillbilly1848 I have some questions that might take me a long time to figure out and maybe you'd know them. Do you have a website or email or something?

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

@@jakepetersen677 I'm not set up for communication outside KZbin. But I'd recommend getting a Ford Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting book for a 96 F350 off eBay for $50. It'll give you all the wiring diagrams you'll ever need for wiring the 7.3. Most of the wiring in the 1980 to 1997 trucks is almost identical in color and layout.

[@alexjohnston4512]

I am trying to figure out wiring for my 67 swap. How do you get the dash to power on?

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

Are you running the stock cluster for the Powerstroke or for the 67?

[@alexjohnston4512]

Stock cluster for 95 when I power on the wire in the fuse box the check engine light flashes and a relay clicks

[@alexjohnston4512]

I got it running your video was very helpful I just had a bad pcm ground

[@josephfoster5891]

Ok needing help in a 93 body with a 96 psd

[@timothyspurger9069]

CP ADDICTS is located in Texas.

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

In Jasper Texas! Don't know why I said otherwise.

[@tylerparkhill2806]

I'm doing a Bronco swap

[@williancontreras6508]

Muy bueno su programa amigo y le escribo desde vzla y le comento un gran problema que tengo con mi carrito una f350 año 2001 que no quiere encender y le coloque la idm nueva y arranco x 30 segundos y se apagó nuevamente y no le quiere enviar la señales a los inyectores y si está a su alcance y me regala su opinión será de mucha ayuda para mí gracias y esperando pronta respuesta....

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

¿Arranca y funciona durante 30 segundos ahora, o no arranca en absoluto?

[@williancontreras6508]

@@humboldthillbilly1848 muchas gracias x su respuesta y deseándole un próspero año lleno de muchos logros y con lo del carro pues le coloque la idm nueva y prendió x 30 segundos y se apagó y no envio mas pulsos a los inyectores y según su conocimiento puedo hacer para que funcione ...

[@williancontreras6508]

No quiso enviar mas pulsos a los inyectores y las RPM no sé mueven en el tablero, gracias y esperando su pronta respuesta....

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

@@williancontreras6508 Bien, cuando la llave está adentro, ¿se enciende la luz de Esperar para comenzar? Si no, podría ser tan simple como un fusible. ¿Tiene acceso a una herramienta de escaneo? Estos motores están controlados por computadora y funcionan a base de aceite de alta presión. La computadora debe ver un mínimo de 500 psi antes de impulsar los inyectores. También necesita ver RPM. Hay un sensor de posición del cigüeñal en la parte delantera del motor junto al equilibrador delantero que falla. Hay varias cosas que pueden causar que el 7.3 no arranque, por lo que poder leer los valores con la herramienta de escaneo será más efectivo que reemplazar piezas hasta que el problema desaparezca.

[@williancontreras6508]

Muy buenos días amigo espero allá resibido un feliz y próspero año nuevo y le cuento que se reviso todos los fusibles y todos todos están bien y en el tablero todas las luces indicadoras marcan bien y da marcha normal pero no enciende y si UD tiene un correo personal le envío el vídeo para ver qué opina ud

[@jedk9523]

for anyboy who is intrested in buying one of these and lives in the colder parts of the world. you better have ALOT of eather

[@kellycowett6254]

Sir you wouldn't happen to have a simple instruction of the bare bones stuff you need to just make the engine run

[@humboldthillbilly1848]

The simplest way to run the engine is keep the engine harness intact to the IDM. The ECM to engine wiring, as well as the ECM to IDM wiring. The fuse box needs the fuses for the ECM and IDM as well as the relays. The throttle pedal wiring needs to be connected to the ECM as well. You need to run switched 12v to turn on the ECM relay. Everything else can be deleted, although I recommend keeping the OBD 2 wires so you can still do diagnostics. Almost forgot to mention that the 1st gen 7.3 is easier than the 2nd gen 7.3 found in the super duty trucks. Those engines have glow plug control modules as well as boost control. The biggest challenge for those engines is the passive antitheft system

[@kellycowett6254]

Thank you sir

[@kellycowett6254]

@@humboldthillbilly1848 my plan is to leave my preexisting harness in my truck and just and this around it