How To Wire A Model Railroad Layout For DCC

In this video I discuss how to wire a model railroad layout for DCC. I show you how I run bus lines, short circuit management, and feeder wires to bring your digital command control layout to life.
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[@RonsTrainsNThings]

If you would like to learn more about wiring your model railroad layout, check out this video as well. kzbin.info/www/bejne/m3zCZKuZpKmLhM0

[@dylanhoey5107]

what 12 gauge and 18 gauge wiring can you link plz awesome video

[@portwolf2293]

On the short management couldn't you use automotive glow fuses with a inline fuse holder instead? I mentioned that because it would give protection by breaking the circuit and the fuse would light up to show you the location of the problem.

[@AndrewMurphy8383]

what is block need to relize not all of us know the slang that is use

[@markdpopovic]

Hi Ron from England, am 64 and thinking of making my first model railway so am watching as many videos as I can to give me lots of tips before I start, keep up the good work Ron great videos

[@Tnapvrvideo]

Your train "help" videos are FABULOUS!!! Thank you for so many wonderfully helpful tutorials.

[@ghostgarden8032]

I am not a electrician, I don’t play one on TV either, I understood Ron’s process of wiring, nice clean and simple to wire a layout

[@barretthageman3350]

Great info. Am new to DCC as I have been out of the hobby for nearly 30 years. Hope to start a small layout this year.

[@kerry_glock]

You spoke of a Contest to Reach 10,000 Subscribers. As of my finding your video today, April 3, 2024, your Channel Anniversary Date, you’re close to 63,000. NICE!!! Congratulations

[@tainopr4356]

Wow Ron, You just earned a whole new level of respect from me. I,m from Puerto Rico. Thank you for caring, on behalf of my people & myself 👍🏽

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

We were glad to help where we could. It was an honor.

[@DIYDigitalRailroad]

I love suitcase connectors! They make wiring so much easier, plus no soldering under the layout.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Yes, I was out, so I figured it was a good chance to show a solid soldered connection, but I honestly NEVER do this. I always use IDCs on the layout for feeder wires.

[@bentleymurphree216]

I’m here fo knowledge, not to criticize .

[@jimmhenry657]

Same here to here for knowledge

[@steveengler5011]

I wish to thank you for your information on wiring a DCC layout. It's a great idea . I used 12-gauge wire for my bus and 16-gauge wire for the rest. I have 7 Blocks in which I used 7 DPDT switches. the switch in the up position is for DC and down position is for DCC. The center tabs on all the switches I used 12 Gauge to the track using 18-gauge wire has feeders. Used 16-gauge wire to my DC controller and to the DCC EZ command controller Plus for my DCC engines (low budget layout) plus my layout is on a 4x8 table... Thanks so much Ron you have been a lot help...

[@flyboybobio3431]

Great video Ron as usual. I personally use suitcase connectors and love them. I go straight from my buss wire to suitcase connectors and feeder wire to the track eliminating an extra wire. This has been working great for my small layout. Many ways to skin a cat as they say. Keep up the great videos. I enjoy everyone.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.

[@n-scaleunionpacificevansto6569]

Ron, like you, I use terminal/barrier strips in my layout wiring. I really like them. But I also use them in connecting the feeder wire to the bus wires, because I don't like soldering. They help keep the wiring neatly organized and hence easier to trouble-shoot later on, if necessary. I like to label everything, both under the layout and on a copy of the track plan, again for trouble-shooting later on, if necessary. Having wired a layout for DC in the 1980s, I have found that wiring my current layout for DCC to be much easier, because I don't need to divide my layout up into a bunch of isolated electrical blocks, each with separate wires running from a huge control panel with a bunch of toggle switches. ...Roy

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Hi, Roy. You are right about the ease of DCC wiring vs DC wiring. Been there, done that. As for terminal strips for feeders, I did that on a previous layout, but I felt like I ended up with a veritable rats nest of wires at the terminal strip, plus I had 22 AWG wire running much longer distances that I preferred. I just think the sub bus keeps thing cleaner for me personally.

[@lefttheleft8934]

I love those big control panels like you're in real switch Tower

[@patrickmaloney6440]

Hey Ron, greetings from the UK! That's a cracking video - crystal clear. I'm just getting the model railway bug again after a 35 year break, and DCC looks like the way to go. Thanks for the great tips about the bulb...

[@JoeG-firehousewhiskey]

I also like using 12ga wire. I like this way of wiring a layout. Looks perfect to me. Im going to do it this way when I wire my layout!

[@caydenwalker2369]

N-Scale people will always tell you, "The wiring and the benchwork was the biggest thing I have touched on my layout", lol, thanks Ron for the video really helps me even though I do HO-Scale, doesnt matter its the same thing :)

[@michaeltan5736]

Thank you! I am just getting into model railroading and planning my small layout. This really helps! Have a wonderful year ahead!

[@mufassadj12]

Newbie here ty for the video

[@kinnywolf2255]

Great video and good idea

[@RadINation]

Keep up the great tips. I always learn things from you.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.

[@RadINation]

Ron's Trains N Things regardless of what others may say the short circuit with lights is amazing. So I assume in a short the light turns.... (on or off)

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Yes it does. This system has its limitations, but for what it does it works great and costs almost nothing.

[@fredashay]

I wired my layout for DC block control with 3 cabs so I can run legacy DC locomotives, but one of those "cabs" is my DCC command station (I use the MRC system) and set all the blocks to my DCC "cab" for normal operation.

[@vincenthuying98]

Thanks for sharing Ron, especially the bonuses

[@jimsmoter4510]

Very informative, looking forward to the next video... thanks

[@Danny-zu8tn]

Good afternoon, Ron. Thank you for the video. Very informative !! My DCC layout is all connected. My question for you is, which gauge wire do I use to connect to the Zephyr Digital Command Control System ? The 12 gauge wire, or the 22 gauge wire ? And do you connect that specific wire to the nearest terminal strip ? Thanks again.

[@johnroberts7924]

Great video!

[@N-Scale]

Thanks Ron. I do not see how it could be any more clear. Mike

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks, Mike.

[@9501599]

Hi Ron you are doing it all wrong....no just kidding. A great video lots to think about, appreciate your effort😉

[@evanhurtig708]

I like how you do this. Can you add a digitrax track Bd4n block detection to this as well. I like the idea of the light coming on. Would the digtrax track system prevent the light from working. I think regardless I like the light. Thanks,

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I wish I had an answer for you. I am planning to add track detection to my own layout soon, but I have no idea if that is going to affect the bulbs for short management. Sorry I couldn't be more help here at present.

[@evanhurtig708]

No worries. Thanks for the response. Keep the videos coming

[@christopherdelgaudio9484]

U must do it to learn it people.

[@CraigLeask-cx2jd]

hello - I know this is an older video, but I am just finding these now. After having had a small model RR as a child, I am only now (at 59) looking to get back into the hobby. I have been purchasing some locomotives, buildings, books, etc. as i ease back into the hobby - my purchases to date are not DCC, but this is something I may look to get into in the future. Here is my question - as I have already invested in DC locomotives, can I follow this technique of wiring the track (every 3-4 feet) and use this for DC to get started. I figure if I do the proper wiring now, it will make it easier in the future to convert, but need to know if this thinking is correct. Thank you for any advice you can provide. Craig

[@milwmodeler3752]

I'm old school and grew up wiring DC blocks. While DCC can be wired very simply, I still prefer to have blocks that can be completely isolated. So my 'Sub-Bus' lines (and some track feeders) actually run back to a control panel where they can be switched on/off. There's not much advantage to this if the layout is a single mainline, but being able to shut down individual tracks is a huge advantage in an engine terminal. It's insurance to not have a group of sound decoder locomotives parked on 'powered' track if something goes wrong. Plus, not having every locomotive power up when layout power is turned on is nice. I recommend terminal strips too, but skip all the spade connectors. They're unnecessary and are the most likely point of failure in this type of wiring.

[@tinojohannesson8732]

I hope you don't mind, but I have some concerns on your soldering technique... 😀 Being into pro electronic business, mainly power and HV, I'll soon be out of commission using your method, and I always use a heat gun with shrink tubing. But I guess for model railroading it's OK, it's not like people are gonna die using your constructions.

[@carolynbartlett9847]

I just found something called T-Tap connectors. What do you think of this option vs suitcase?

[@tzavitz]

New subscriber and I love your videos, style, and generally easy to understand steps...so Kudos! One followup question....what does the bulb actually do to prevent or detect a short, what does it mean or how do you know you had a malfunction? What would the remedy be? New to this and don't quite get it. Is the bulb on all the time and blows out if you have a short, like a fuse??

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks for the question. Normally the bulb just sits dormant. Being wired in series, the small current flows through the bulb without lighting it. When a short circuit occurs because something derails or picks a switch or something conductive crosses the rails, the current goes way up. At that point the bulb comes on, draws most of the amperage, and limits the current to the point of the short. The bulb lighting tells you the short has occurred in that section connected to that bulb. This reduces the risk of damage to equipment at the point of the short. It also keeps the system from throwing the main breaker so trains in other sections of the layout an keep running. When you remove the cause of the short the bulb goes out and things return to running normally. I hope that helps.

[@tzavitz]

@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks for the explanation. I just saw your detailed explanation in another of your great videos....they are terrific, so thanks much!

[@rvnmedic1968]

Hey Ron, great video on the main wiring, including soldering and the suitcase connectors. I just assembled a dog bone layout that is 4x4' on each end, 3' in the middle run, and 16' total end to end. What I'm unsure about is power supply - is there a rough calculation for how many power modules to supply the overall layout (DCC)? Would I add a power module by wiring into the main buss? Honestly, I'm unsure about a lot of MRR things after a 50 year break. I'm a subber of you channel and others, trying to force feed all this new tech into my 73 year old brain. LOL Cheers, Bob

[@jonjonesmagic]

Dude people can suck but haters gonna hate. Thanks for the awsome vid and the great tips.

[@ReidsTrainStuff]

Great video Ron, easy to understand, do like the short protection idea, once again I get ideas for my layout from your channel, thanks for sharing...Reid

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks Reid. Good to hear from you.

[@crabbybass]

Could you use LED bulbs in place of the 1156?

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

No, LEDs don't draw the same current.

[@crabbybass]

@@RonsTrainsNThings thanks for the info

[@barneyboy7771]

Very clear video, every thing looks nice and neat. My only question is why is a wire with a bigger number smaller than the wire with a large number. Weird, all wiring around the world except I think US is metric. 1mm wire is smaller than a 2mm wire

[@rjl110919581]

THANK YOU FOR DETAIL VIDEO AS USE NCE SYSTEM ON MY SWITCHING INDUSTRIAL LAYOUT AS IN 7 SECTION WITH SHORT CIRCUIT MANAGEMENT AS HAVE IN 3 MAIN BOCK SECTION SHORT CIRCIUT AS OTHER DCC UNIT LIKE BOCK DECEPTICON TO TELL WHERE TRAIN SIT ON LAYOUT IN OPERATION .

[@cooperlaw2889]

Can this wiring method also apply to HO scale model trains? I'm trying to get in to the DCC aspect of model trains and I'm not quite sure what wires are best to use for the HO scale.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Yes, this works for HO scale.

[@tracksidemike]

Hello Ron does the 1156 drawl power from your layout? I like the idea of knowing we’re your problem spots are. Thanks

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

It only draws power when there is a short. Otherwise it is just a conductor.

[@happeterson2155]

Good morning, Ron. Really enjoying your instruction. I love your information on DCC wiring. Question, I have ordered some parts from AllElectronics. I have a question about the spade terminal connectors that you use for the 12 ga main bus. I only found them for 16-14 wire (they were blue on the video); will they fit the 12 ga wire? Hap Peterson

[@markhenke2709]

Hi Ron thanks for all the great videos.. wondering where you got or made the hi_rise buildings in your backdrop???

[@Tnapvrvideo]

Quick question: For DCC, can I use Atlas and/or PECO *insulated* frog switches on a HO scale, Code 83 layout? Thanks!

[@si12volt1]

my question is how do I run 4 tracks (lines) DCC independently at the same time , SO I can run 4 different trains lines at same time and have full control over then ... I have both a Digitrax Zephyr Express and the wireless handheld Digitrax DT602D with the DCS 210+?

[@rayopeongo]

Do you have a video on wiring a reverse loop and installing an auto-reverser? I am planning an update to my layout, and just realized (thanks to AnyRail) that some planned crossovers will result in a reversing loop. Any help would be appreciated.

[@neilbuilds7475]

Hey Ron - I used 14 gauge stranded for my main bus lines which was divided into 4 isolated power districts using the black terminal strips. For short protection I used the Digitrax PR42 to manage those power districts. To send power to my drop feeds, I used suitcase connectors to connect 18 gauge solid wire directly into the main bus in strategic locations. From the 18 gauge wire I feed to multiple 22 gauge solid wire drops from the track using Spring Connectors. I opted for the Spring Connectors so I didn't have to solder under the layout plus if I need to remove a piece of track, I just have to remove the feeder wire from the Spring Connector.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

That sounds like a good system. Thanks for sharing.

[@ScottTaipaleRail]

I am building a bedroom HO scale layout consisting of two 4x8 areas connected by a 2x2 section and a bridge. This will also include a roundhouse/turntable. There will be 2 mains around the perimeter as well as a rail yard on one side and a coal/gravel dock on the other. How many management districts would you recommend for my layout?

[@RadINation]

I love your videos and have gotten some great ideas for my layout. I watched your video about north yard that you modeled. And I did a similar, but slightly different, of it for mine. My layout is going to be more of a "freelance americana". Most is all fiction but model some real parts of America. I wanna make the grand canyon, Niagara Falls and las Vegas on my layout. Along with an elevated right away going thu a modge podge city (iconic building from large cities). KEEP UP THE VIDEOS THERE GREAT

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

That sounds like a fun layout. I look forward to that.

[@virginiapaddler4857]

Hello, Can I use 12-2 home wire for a bus line? My main is 50 foot long. thanks!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Sure you can. I use 12 AWG wire for my bus.

[@AbelG8781]

In 2 rail O, I use DCC like any typical N or HO layout. One booster per district. Simple and reliable. Have yet to experience too many issues with it lol

[@danbellamy8985]

Hi Ron, great video! This may be a dumb question but how many terminals, sub buses and 1156 bulbs do you need on an average for a layout? Thank you. Dan

[@davidmuse7004]

Excellent ideas and video Ron!! You give a great explanation of how you approach wiring for your layout.Other's can watch and get ideas and concepts for how they would like to wire there's, and you are so very correct that not everyone does things the same, it''s just how you do it! Thanks for all your videos and sharing with us. D. Muse

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.

[@Mr-wo5iu]

I must be the dummy in the class After watching the whole video I feel like I have just a small part of a much bigger picture Kinda like trying to show someone how to pull a calf but only showing the tail of the cow Doesn't seem to help much

[@skatelegged]

As with most things in life, "there's a bit more to it than you think". You're not going to watch a 20-minute video and then know EVERYTHING you need to know to repair your roof, (or wire up a DCC train model). Take it in context. Yes, you are right that you've been exposed to a small part of a much bigger picture! Those wires he is calling "feeder wires" will be going up through the table and connecting to the rails of the train track. The extra "layer" of wiring he calls the sub-bus will be used to power other parts of the layout that are not mentioned here. He may put scenery next to his track with artificial grass stuff on it. Notice he didn't mention THAT here either. But with the 20 minutes of video (and heaven knows HOW much time recording it) that he graciously gave us, it seems to me he did a FINE job of portraying how he does his layout, and why. So let's just absorb it, assess it, perhaps reflect for a moment that not everyone here knows what you even MEAN by "pulling a calf", smile, and then just generally revel in all the information sharing available to us on these interwebz, eh?

[@UbernostrumPrime]

On the terminal strips you linked, are those $6+ each (which seems like an awful lot), or is it actually a multipack?

[@gerlandkent6377]

keep, up the Great work.👍👍

[@jnickence]

I like the sub bus concept. Also, good idea for the short indicator.

[@JamesSmith-mv9fp]

Indeed how have I wired all my exhibition layouts for the last 40 years ?! As a Railway Engineer, who understands both electricals and real life signalling systems. I would certainly NEVER use DCC. For the simple reason this Toy Train set system, has NO provision to cope with ANY of the real life Block signalling systems used in Europe, Japan or the "Colonies". Which makes DCC a totally useless waste of money ! In my mind, building "Model Railways" for exhibition use, means you have to replicate not just realistic scenery, but also realistic operation. This is complicated when it is understood, I always model complex busy multi-track mainlines, to greatly enhance viewer interest. Using traditional "Club" type 12v DC wiring methods which are quicker than DCC, is still NOT good enough. So the only way to solve the dilemma was obviously to replicate the real life signalling Block methods of the real railway ! This I achieved back in 1975, with the aid of a then Senior British Railways signalling engineer. So the wiring methods I use, copy exactly the British Railways Solid State Interlocking (SSI) methods for Track Circuit Block (Developed by BR in the late 1960's). Which is a system to control 3 or 4 aspect colour light signalling, and designed to cope with trains, as frequently as every two minutes on each track ! This is NOT for Metro systems but for long distance Inter-City lines, and has to cope with a mix of passenger & freight trains. It is also the system used for Europe's busiest station "Clapham Junction", where over 1000 trains either pass through or stop here every day, of which only around 5% are freight. To replicate this real life signalling system, nothing more complicated than simple Relays are needed. A Relay is simply a number of electro-mechanical switches in one little box, controlled by an electro-magnet. The Relays provide the real life "Interlocking". Trains moving along a line pass over "Track Circuits" in the track, which energise or switch off certain relays. Which in turn change the signals appropriately. Each signal is of course inter-connected with the next two signals along the line, via the Relays to ensure correct aspects are displayed. Further the relays also cut power to any track just ahead of any danger signal, to provide the real life AWS (train cab Automatic Warning System). So preventing sleepy operators from crashing red signals. Operators have a control panel for the relevant line or route they control, and the signals have panel repeaters, displaying what each signal currently shows. This allows the Operator to see at any moment where his train or trains are. If a train needs to change track or route, points may need to be changed, but these will NOT change if another route has previously been set, until that train passes. The signals as per real life can be fully automatic, semi-automatic or fully manual types depending on their location, and whether any pointwork is present. But all types automatically return to red when a train passes. The number of moving trains on the layout is limited to one train one operator, to avoid chaos. (And my current layout is designed for a maximum of 9 operators.) But the signalling system not only aids the operators by reducing mistakes, but can also cope with more than one train following another, along the same line, inline with the displays on the signals. Without any risk of a crash every occurring. The most complex problem of using a real life signalling system & its "Interlocking" is figuring out what "Interlocking" is needed for each signal & point. The actual wiring needed is simplified by the Common Return principle whereby ALL accessories on the layout (Trains, signals, point motors, track sections, lighting of buildings etc..) return to the SAME Common wire. In other words just ONE wire completes about 45% of the whole layouts wiring. So only ONE single PLUS wire is then needed, for each item !!!! Or only around 60% of the wiring needed by a DCC equivalent type layout. Happy wiring😝

[@parkerwilliams7652]

What kind of railroad tracks do you use?

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I use Peco track and turnouts. Right now I am using code 80, but in the future will be using code 55 and would recommend that.

[@Shadow0fd3ath24]

This makes much more sense as most train wiring setups are so overcomplicated its not even funny man. Make a color code you can underrstand and stick to it.....then give it power/ground, add an on/off switch, hook controls up, then go from there. And for the love of god...EVERY SINGLE RAIL PIECE DOES NOT NEED 4 WIRES, nor does every rail need to be powered at all. Nor does every item need its own custom circuit board and control stack and switch and bussbar with 20+ wires

[@jansenhobbs2214]

Mine is small enough to only need the positive and negitive

[@eddiebcfc1140]

So if I wanted to have another connection to the track would I just use another terminal thing and repeat the process that you showed. Also, I know this is a really basic question but I'm not to sure on how to do this but how do you connect the bus wires to your power supply.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Yes, that is how you add more connections. Your system should have bus or power out terminals to connect your main bus to.

[@eddiebcfc1140]

Ok thanks

[@centeroftheearthmining4095]

How do you determine districts?

[@theeyeofthestorm5718]

Don't have a layout unfortunately I can't afford any of it but I sure enjoy watching you and learning from you maybe someday

[@photozen8398]

Would be nice if it combo of both a light tells where is the short is and a breaker of circuit, but that will be expensive add it up all the way on the track, still consider a possibility of a kid turned the switch of the track on and I am at work…LOL

[@stuartgillis2867]

Hi, do I hook up my main bus to my dcc controller.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Yes

[@andrewl9191]

I don't do anything special, or have any separate kind of short protection separately from what already in my digitrax system. I run the maybe 16 or 18 gauge wire from the control unit to a terminal block of maybe 8 screws on each side. I just added a second board that I can easily take on and off since my RR isn't always set up. I use clip-together connectors to add in the second board, and out of there come the two wires to another terminal block, and then I just jump off of there to the next two terminal blocks. I've changed the way I wire my turnouts since the first section, which is why I have a lot more terminal blocks. I have wiring for my Bullfrog switch controls and I've isolated the frog on the second board, as well as powering the turnout separately.

[@SD45-ET44AC]

I like coming to your channel in that you know where the box is located and how to think outside of it

[@chuckholsclaw6829]

Hey Ron, I like your method of dcc wiring and I would like to use your method but I need some clarification. The bus wire you connected first, is that coming from the dcc system ? The bus continues on to another set of terminal straps, is that for another block ? Let me tell how I have my layout wired as best that I can and see if it makes sense. I have a Nce powercab with a smart booster so that I can unplug and plug in my cab at different points of my layout. The wiring is from the booster to a set of bulbs from Nce, 6 bulbs total. Some 2 wires go to the bulb input on the board. I have six 2 wire outputs. My layout is broken into 6 different blocks, each one has a separate bus line and feeders for each block. I want to eliminate these as they are rated at 1 amp and limits my capacity. So by using your wiring method, how would I wire the 6 separate blocks with a single power source, that being my dcc booster and have them be independent of each other ? I could do the circuit breaker way but that means alot of money that's why I went the bulbs from Nce in the first place. I really appreciate any help you could provide or another video I could check out. Thanks, Chuck

[@donrussell2773]

I am having trouble finding 1156 bulb...I ordered from Amazon and got 3056 bulbs which you can insert the wires. is that okay if so I have to figure out how to attach to the board the plastic clips are too small

[@gerrywood5325]

My layout is going to be an overhead set of double tracks that will travel the entire circumference of my bedroom and one closet. I intend to use EZ track so it will connect easily and also look good as well. I have a source where I will be getting my track in bulk and there are a lot of transformer connection sections in the box. How can I determine how many 9 inch EZ track sections to lay before I have to install another connector section? My room measures 12' by 24' and the closet is 4' by 6'. Any assistance you can give me will be greatly appreciated. I know you use flex track, but I want mine to stand a little higher above the lumber I am going to lay the track on.

[@BALD8BIL]

I have used #10 thhn wire for my layout for the same reason in case of a voltage drop

[@AbelG8781]

I'll be using 8 GA for my O scale 2 rail layout although I've heard great things on 10 gauge as well.

[@kennethmintz1675]

will the new 1156 led's work for this ????

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I don't think so because they draw less current.

[@FrogandFlangeVideo]

Very instructive, thanks a lo. James/FFV.

[@patkruchowski5718]

Great video. To damn complicated for me. You lost me a just a few short minutes into the video. Looks like I wont be hooking up DCC.

[@bigsparky65]

I ran 14 gauge main bus line to terminals at each end. For future expansion, at the one end i tie it into my DCC unit. From the main bus line I tie into sub terminals, then i tie my feeders into the sub terminals. Never had a problem with voltage drop. My layout is 3x 10x 4 , L shaped, yes i have a turn table, tons of turnouts, yard

[@MrWebby82]

hi ron im just starting up oon a 2 loop set up on 6ft by 4ft (roughly) around 1.8 meters by 1.2 meters and like to aspect of dcc and what the locos do so mu vision is to run trains on a dcc set but run my switches on a standard dc set up so am looking for some help on where to start with this thank you in advance from steve united kingdom

[@ripjeffhanneman5838]

There’s doing things the easy way and then there’s Ron’s way. 😂

[@ChicagoMadisonWesternRR]

I’m going to assume this is a no or yes, but it would be too complicated. Is it possible to simultaneously wire a layout for DC and DCC, such as one system is turned off while the other is operating. I say this because I have a mix of locomotives and I would like operate both kinds. I already know that I can operate DCC locomotives on DC, but you can’t do the rest of the bells and whistles.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

From a wiring perspective, yes you can wire a layout and use either system, though you should completely unhook one system when using the other. Personally I don't recommend using DCC locomotives for long periods of time on DC layouts as it seems to stress and, over time, damage the decoders. It isn't supposed to do so, but that is my experience.

[@LittlePwnageMusicFan]

To be honest, I choose Bachmann's EZ-Command. Because it's easier to connect than other systems.

[@thos759]

Totally confused . Thought you run feeders directly from 12,G to track ? Don’t understand what or where 18G goes or ends up ?

[@mayfieldd09]

@ thos759 12 gage wire is thicker 18 gage is thinner gage 1 is the thickest that I know of with out going into Heven duty industrial size wiresing for machines. Gage 24 is speaker wire goes down to 30 gage for soldering DCC Decoders into locomotives. Hope that helps.

[@SleeTheSloth]

In American wire gauge (AWG) The smaller the wire size # the bigger the wire diameter is. The 18 Gauge ( smaller wire ) wire goes to the track. The 12 gauge wire is the bus line. The bus line runs from the DCC command station and runs the length of the layout. The ends of the wire usually do not get connected to anything, but are electrically taped or have wire nuts in them. The Bus is an electrical feeding system. It cums out of the DCC command station from the terminals marked track. This bus wire runs from one end of the layout to the other. Think of it as the electric lines on the telephone poles out side your house. Just like each house taps in to the pole line in front of your house, so dose each set of track feeders. The track feeders are usually small gauge wires then the bus. This is because the feeders only Cary the power of the one block ( track segment ) they are connected to. The bus line on the other hand carry all the current from all the blocks / feeders, so we use a heaver wire on the bus. this may help -> www.a-51x.com/phantomhobbies/images/Basic%20DCC%20bus%20and%20track%20feed%20wire%20system.png

[@pukavita]

SleeTheSloth - thanks for the link to the example diagram. One quick question regarding this diagram please: why would you insulate your track into sectors if you don’t install switches, etc to manage these sectors?

[@warrenholmar1129]

@@pukavita I thought it was for short management? If you divide your layout into blocks you can find a short faster? If the whole layout wasn't divided the short could be anywhere? On the note.. Hidden track or staging, even in a helix would be the least of places to have this?

[@pukavita]

@@warrenholmar1129 Makes sense. Thanks!

[@gerlandkent6377]

thank, you for shairing you're video.👍

[@sithlordofoz]

Took the link ride to Sophia's channel - my Year 9 English class is going to be watching, and hopefully being inspired for their slam poetry unit next week. Equally hopefully they don't have to stay back so I can get in on the Live Chat!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

That is awesome. I will be sure to tell her.

[@williamcrabtree3975]

This should probably be called "wiring a short detection circuit for dcc" and not dcc wiring made easy.

[@kenmayer3785]

Thank you for the instructional videos. I am personally going to follow your lead on a 12 gauge bus, with an 18 gauge sub bus. My question is, you run 18 gauge sub busses for a district, how long is your district typically, and should I feed it again with 12 gauge after so many feet? Ty

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

My power districts tend to be 8' - 10' long. The 18 AWG wire will easily handle this distance.

[@captwiles]

Missing one big step! I wanted to see the main power supply hookup, model, brandname, etc.

[@edlinton4113]

I'm sure this is a great video but I am to new. I don't know bus wire from a pole. I'll look for basic wiring video

[@medtech68]

Hey Ron really enjoy ur videos ! Questions I have the CP6 but where do I put the wires at to wire it at the beginning of the gap somewhere in the middle or at the end of the protected district ! The wires coming off the CP6 I would do just like the light bulb correct ? Thanks David

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Hi, David. Yes, the CP6 works just like 6 of the 1156 buld I use. As for feeder wires, it depends a little on how much track you are powering through each bulb. If it is just say 6' of straight track, by might just connect the wire in the middle of the section, assuming your rail joints are soldered. If, on the other hand, you were powering several industrial sidings through the bulb, then I would run a sub-bus of 18 AWG wire, then run feeders to each spur from that.

[@medtech68]

Ron's Trains N Things hey Ron so I have tried the 1156 and I have about a 6 ft section and have it isolated on both ends the light bulb will light when I short the area yet when I short the area that’s NOT in the district it still shorts the whole layout out???? Am I missing something or doing something wrong? Somehow these 2 must be connected somewhere ? Confused

[@charliehaviland108]

Would you do that throughout the entire layout? I have a 12’x10’ room I plan to set up like a shelf layout.

[@g8sbs944]

Fu*ck take the Solder to the Join the that is to be Soldered or you could get a Dry Join ( not Good ) that could be a major Problem

[@abyssalreclass]

I have to say, I like the idea of using a tail light bulb to manage shorts. How much voltage is dropped across the bulb when a train is just running normally. Does it affect the train at all?

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

It does not impact the train at all in normal running.

[@signman9328]

70 people were disappointed that Ron won't get drawn into petty, pointless arguments!!

[@michaelhirvela1862]

Good tips. I for one do not like the IDC (suitcase) connectors. At a Model RR Club, they had a lot of those and most we discovered had cut through and broken the feeder wires with loss of power in that area. Issue was the original installer had used a channel lock pliers to install rather than the parallel jaw pliers. Cut them out and installed the barrier strips such as you show. More reliable. Also, we installed circuit breaker boards dividing the layout into segments. That way a short in an area won't affect the rest of the layout.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks for sharing how you do things. Appreciate your input.

[@fishon8406]

New to this....at the end of the video just after you put the heat shrink on, you left the stranded sub-bus wires hanging off the left side of the screen and didn't say where they would end up being connected. I got the solid wires go up to the track, but where did the other end of the sub-bus wires go?

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

The mail bus wires connect to your DCC system.

[@MikeThomasRailRoadOverhaul]

Fantastic video thanks for sharing I’m going to be moving away from Bachmann dcc controller in favor of something else maybe a powercab

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Let us know how that goes.

[@briant9251]

Like your little trick with the light bulb to see a short. I like to do my splices a little differently though. Using a utility knife and basic wire strippers. I first make a cut through the insulation, using strippers. I then make a cut through the insulation along the length of the wire about 1/2 inch. I then Fold back the insulation exposing the wire I wish to solder to. I solder the joint then folder the insulation back over the soldered joint. Then electrical tape or heat shrink. Makes a slightly better-insulated joint. But it is overkill for the most part. Mainly used when doing my computer cabling for sleeving work.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks for sharing. I can see the benefit to that method.

[@kenrosser8160]

I just got a bigger house and a big room over my garage and will run 120ft straight main line on the bottom and top level .how many ft can i use before i need to put on power wires

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

For the sake of electrical reliability and continuity I would run a manin power bus and drop feeders to the track every 6 feet.

[@paulwhatley9647]

I enjoy your informative videos. Building my HO layout now and just starting in DCC. This is very helpful. Was wondering, could you not use an automotive fuse as short protection? Say a 15 or 20 amp per block?

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I am no electrical expert here. I believe you could BUT the actual amperage on most model railroads are so low I'm not sure what it would take to blow one and high voltage at low amperage over a bit of time can sure fry a decoder and damage a locomotive shell. You would have to know your actual amperage draw when shorted and use a fuse appropriate to that...Plus, you don't want to have to replace a fuse every time you short our a wheel across a turnout.

[@25mfd]

so if i wanted to i could skip adding the 18 awg wire and just solder my feeder wires right to the main buss wires correct???

[@lfsrailroadmodeling2329]

Yeah you could. But without a fuse or breaker you could short out the whole system.

[@MMRails]

Great video. Could you use those terminal blocks to add feeder wires instead of suitcase connectors? It also could skip the sub bus line if you wanted to. Always informative Ron! -Mark

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Hi, Mark. I did exactly what you describe on a previous layout. 2 problems--1) the small 22 AWG wire can get strung out quite a distance from the terminal to where it connects to the track, which I try to avoid due to potential signal/voltage degradation, and 2) you end up with a veritable rat's nest of wire running out of the terminal strips, which need to be much larger to accommodate all of those feeders...but yes, it can be done. I find the sub-bus just be be much cleaner in the long run. It is an extra wire that saves a lot of small wires and a lot of mess.