HULTS BRUK ARVIKA 5 STAR AXE - FULL REVIEW

This is my full review of the Arvika 5 Star Axe made by Hults Bruk/Hultafors, available here: www.lamnia.com/sv/p/50795/ver...
CONTENTS
00:00 - INTRO
00:28 - SPECS
00:48 - FIRST LOOK
11:07 - CLEAN UP & FACTORY EDGE TEST
15:31 - DESSED UP & NEW EDGE
19:46 - SLICING 3 TYPES OF PAPER
25:08 - SHAVING LEG HAIR
27:09 - CHOPPING A MEDIUM SIZED FRESH LOG
40:48 - CHOPPING A SMALL SIZED FRESH LOG
44:55 - CHOPPING A MEDIUM SIZED NON-FRESH LOG
49:41 - CHOPPING A SMALL SIZED NON-FRESH LOG
50:58 - FELLING A SMALL TREE
55:13 - BRANCHING
58:45 - ADDITIONAL BRANCHING/DE-LIMBING
1:02:17 - SPLITTING WOOD
1:07:50 - FINAL THOUGHTS & CONCLUSIONS
1:21:00 - OUTRO
1:21:14 - END SCREEN

[@BCJerbs]

I love my Arvika HB....i was gifted one for my last birthday and is my favourite splitter! Thanks so much for sharing your take on dressing up an axe! I need to make a sheath for mine still but excellent without it! Cheers, Kimmers and Jerbs....watching from the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver island in Canada 👍🏼🇨🇦

[@PinkG10]

Hey Kimmers and Jerbs! I love the fact that the people watching this video are from all over the world, like you guys over in Canada (a country I'd love to visit one day, I must say!). I'm happy to hear you were gifted one of these fine tools and that it's now your favorite splitter (who would have thought it would make such a good splitter given the design of the head!?). I def. think this axe should be delivered with a high quality leather sheath, but it is what it is. If you can't make one yourself, then I'm sure you can turn to some custom leather maker(s) to help you out. Once again, thank you for dropping by and leaving a comment! Enjoy that axe of yours to the fullest now! :)

[@zafish1920]

Your reviews are always very well filmed, edited, and informative. I know that takes a lot of time and effort. Thank you

[@PinkG10]

Thank you, ZAfish! I do put in quite a bit of time and effort into these full review-videos, and to read a comment such as yours, makes it even more worth it! Once again, thank you for watching and for dropping such a nice comment!

[@NINEWALKING]

Before I have ordered my Hultsforce Arvika 5 Star I have tried to see as many videos I could about it. I was not sure what axe to get and on the end I have decided to get it while name and the pattern have such heritage and price is good. I would not and I do not fault you for the English language, pronunciation, grammar and wrong terms. I am not the native speaker anyhow. The fact is that I am nowadays just and middle age keyboard warrior that is not going to woods anymore. I live in the place where it is impossible and all trees are marked and protected. On my holidays I go to the Countries that do have wild forest but I am busy there with other things that are more important to me. So you do more then me for sure. Though I use to do stuff and as a child I was learned the Axeman stuff from my Grandad. Used those skills to go true some tuff times in life to. So that said I am more Axe collector and tuner that user sadly. But I am very proficient with them still. What I would fault you for are so many things. Sure you do what ever works for you and I do not want to be changing your mind. These are just my opinions. You will never catch me wearing gloves when using Axe. Nor you will see grip tape around my handles. Only thing it on the wood handle allowed is oil treatment. Gloves make blisters with axe and take away of the control. I do use gloves for jobs that are not connected to handle bouncing in your hand. Bucking you do two times, or even 3 times, wider cut. Waste of wood and energy. Sure you want to see big chips flying for the enjoyment and video but still for me that is waste. You imagine two lines and their intersection should end close to the end of the thickness of the tree that you are bucking. Angles should not be to flat either but should be wide enough that you never get stuck on the end. Delimbing is terrible as well. You cut of branches with no purpose and with varying angles. Lot of times it is to steep angles and the other times it is almost 90 degrees angle and you leve dangerous short and sharp stubbies that can hurt you when transporting the wood. I mostly delimb flush. So trunk can be used for many things and while transporting it it will not getting hang on stuff nor it would hurt me. Sure you should know what a convex grind is. In Tasmanian pattern and most of the Nordic patterns you do not promote secondary bevel. Secondary bevel as it might be helpful to some bad still axe heads but it is not necessary here. I think they give you some to easier profile your own convex geometry by rounding off that shoulder. For size of the wood and for the delimbing any Scandinavian forest axe would have done easier and better work with less waste of the energy. But then again you are not in the survival situation and wasting of the energy might be just a good workout. I know I would appreciate some workout in the woods while using an axe. Especially because I love axes and axemanship. With such a big, heavy axe you normally let the weight and size work for you. You do not try to force it un necessary. If you need to do delimbing, because it is the only axe on you, then just let it free fall controlling where it hits. That is enough for smaller limbs no need to use the force. All together you look to me as novice and not a real axeman. Can't wait to get mine in. BTW Hultsforse axes of nowadays have bit to thick handles. If modifying them than shaping handle to your own profile and size and putting a good profile and edge on it is best thing one can do. protection

[@PinkG10]

Hey middle age keyboard warrior! I, too, am getting older by the day, slowly realizing I'm not as young, tough and strong as I once was. Sadly, I didn't have a Grandpa that could teach me the basics, but my dad did the best he could (got me into Boy Scouts at least). It is what it is! I'll say right away that I'm not an axeman nor a lumberjack, not in the way most, or especially somewhat older people perhaps, would use those specific terms. I'm, however, a person who likes using bladed tools, be it knives, axes, saws and so on. An axe enthusiast and a collector of high quality axes (and knives etc.). that enjoy using these tools to the best of my ability and showing them for others (especially the less known makers/brands). I'm lucky to live in Sweden, since we do have a bit of a nice axe history, and I'm also lucky in the sense that I've had the chance to acquire a lot of high quality tools from all over the world. There're, in my humble opinion, nice axes from other parts of the world as well, even though Sweden has a few very well renowned makers/brands. I do think that Hultafors prime was several decades ago, but their new premium line is a step in the right direction. I find it interesting that you mention that Hultafors have thicker handles these days, and that's indeed true. And I'm not a fan of thicker axe handles. I've never had one of my old Hultafors handles break, despite hard use and even some overstrikes (with no paracord to protect from the impact). I guess most axes handled by professionals these days, gets their handles thinned down and the edges reprofiled (keep the full convex grind). I'm not one of those professionals, though. I think the biggest issue people have with my use of axes, is the CCM-cloth tape wrapping of the handles combined with wearing gloves. And I totally get those people. I, personally, don't have a problem with doing it this way, but I agree, that it's not the way these tools were intended to be used. I might strip all my axes of the CCM-cloth tape and I might drop the gloves in the future. The paracord wrap might be dropped as well one day, but kept on the axes I use solely for splitting wood. In terms of bucking, I've never used that word before but I'll now, I agree that I wasted some wood. I should have stated in the video that this was done to show a scenario where you have to chop a tree in half to remove it from blocking a road or something like that (a chainsaw would ofc have been A LOT easier to use for that;)). I hear what you say, though, and I'll give it a go! De-limbing was to make a smooth surace of the tree, to make it easier to work with, move around etc. I've never put much thought into the angles used when de-limbing, I just want as much of the limbs removed as possible, leaving little left to get stuck in/on. Since I had no real intention, other than to show the axe doing any type of de-limbing, I didn't even think about the angles for a second. I do find your input interesting, though! In terms of the bevel put on this axe; I generally prefer full convex grinds, which 98% of my axes have. I would have prefered to have a more full convex grind on this one, but I did not do the sharpening of the edge this time around and went with what I got. Still a lot better than what was put on the axe from the get go. ;) The Hultafors 5 Star Axe is a fun axe to mess around with, but I would never pick this axe for extended use and for doing small axe-related tasks. My favorite axes of all time are much smaller and lighter. But in a video showcasing a specific axe model, I will do stuff with that axe, which it was not specifically made for. Like de-limbing small trees etc. And splitting wood, for that matter. There're many axes with specific designs that lend better to splitting, felling, carpenting etc. I just try to provide some variaty when I make a video like this. As simple as that. Once again, thank you for all the input, and I hope you'll enjoy your axe once you have it in your hands!

[@NINEWALKING]

@PinkG10 I am very glad that you are positive and open for different approaches and learning. Thanks for not taking it negative as it was not meant with ill intentions. I love Swedish axes. Steel is awesome. Workmanship is the best in the world. Perfect tradition to. Use of American Hickory for the handles is the best way to do it, too. I currently own two Gransfors Bruks axes, two Hultsfors axes with 3rd in order, and one Wetterling axe. Splitting maul and Small Forest Axe from GB. 1.5 Kg head felling axe and 0.9 Kg boys axe from HB and Swedish Firest axe from Wetterlings. All of them razer sharp. All water stones sharpened to 12k grit and stopped. All but the Splitting maul convex sharpened. I am not sure how many knives I own. Woodworking tools I own are all at razor blade level to. I do love sharpening and fine tuning of the tools. Way I swing the axe hands move into the position in smooth movement. Starts with strong hold of yhe left hand on the handle with right hand leading the axe. It ends up with almost loose hold on the axe. When splitting wood, I introduce the slight twist to the right side on the very end. This helps with splitting wood. The most important thing I have learned is the amount of thr force needed to split. Before that, I was using too much force, ending each split into the stuck axe in the wood I use as the podium. Next to saving power and increasing endurance, it forces you to be effective. The second big thing was reducing the grip strength in the moment of contact. Sure, be careful to keep control of the axe. If you keep death grip on the handle, a lot of the momentum is wasted, and hands get big shock and beating. It's like sticking knife into the wood. Using the same power, you will stock it deeper in the wood by throwing it than by still holding it in your hands. Axe hit is you accelerating the axe head and letting it hit a wood like it was free from you and the handle. Then you have the highest efficiency. Technique is in accelerating it fast and precision in leading it smooth to a correct spot on the wood. The third big thing was recognition and read of the each oeace of wood. Recognition of places that want to split. Learning how the grain works. Learning where to hit so that the second hit diggs in deeper despite the same power used. Like with a felling tree. You picture in your head finished wedge on the fall side. Normally, people start on the top side on the very edge of the wedge. But if you start like 5 cm lower with first cuts and then following it with hits 5 cm higher at the very edge, the second hits will go deeper because of how the grain is working. Also, things about safety were important for me. Like working on proper height, working with legs bent and spread when splitting or standing on the opposite side of the log when de limbing. Respect of the tools and responsibility of keeping them sharp. Sharp is safe. Dull tools lead to bad use and risks. Like my Japanese cooking knives. I can't give them into the hands of normal people. They do not respect the sharpness and cut them self and ruin the edge, too. Anyways I miss out going into the woods.

[@coleyslone4988]

Good job. Very interesting review.

[@PinkG10]

Thank you, Coley! I'm glad you found the review to be interesting. That's one of my main goals with all of my videos!

[@rickc4317]

Wow, I'm impressed with that ax. Great review of it, Fredrik. Anyone thinking about getting it will value your input. Sorry I'm late to the party here. I've been out hunting the past week and I'm trying catch up.

[@PinkG10]

Hey, Rick! I thought I had lost you there for a second, very glad that's not the case! Thank you for your kind words, I always try to do my best. I know that there's not a whole lot of people that watch my videos, and I know that I sometimes put too much time/stuff in them, but for those who are really interested in this axe, this video should be helpful. I hope you had a great time out hunting!

[@ashsmall8103]

the return of the axeman and it was glorious

[@PinkG10]

Thank you, Ash! I always enjoy messing around with axes, and I do have quite a few new axes to show, but this type of videos take some time to make - which is the only real downside (since time is becoming more and more limited). I'm very happy that you enjoyed "the return", not so sure about the glorious part, though. ;)

[@ashsmall8103]

@@PinkG10 i always say quality over quantity and this video was glorious

[@stompbox64dtown9]

Love the axe!

[@PinkG10]

I like it much more than I thought I would. I mean, I do like large, heavy axes with semi-long curved handles (75cm-90cm), but I just wasn't sure how this grind/head profile would work for me. I do think this model should come with a leather sheath as a standard, and also with a better factory edge, even though they're indeed meant to be sharpened upon arrival. I already have too many axes, and I kind of got this just to try something different out - and I'm glad I did! I can even see myself getting a second one, putting on a finer and thinner edge and profile as well as making a custom leather sheath for it (which is something I should make for this specific one, as well). All in all, this is a great, large sized axe that will bite deep!

[@philcowdall9399]

For woodstump/tree stump we say 'chopping block'. Really nice video, thanks

[@tedmartin5402]

I've just bought an avika axe head and hung it myself on a hickory handle I bought.havent used it yet.seemes a goodun.

[@karlantonlillester4884]

Keep working on your swing and the axe will work better for you

[@PinkG10]

CONTENTS 00:00 - INTRO 00:28 - SPECS 00:48 - FIRST LOOK 11:07 - CLEAN UP & FACTORY EDGE TEST 15:31 - DESSED UP & NEW EDGE 19:46 - SLICING 3 TYPES OF PAPER 25:08 - SHAVING LEG HAIR 27:09 - CHOPPING A MEDIUM SIZED FRESH LOG 40:48 - CHOPPING A SMALL SIZED FRESH LOG 44:55 - CHOPPING A MEDIUM SIZED NON-FRESH LOG 49:41 - CHOPPING A SMALL SIZED NON-FRESH LOG 50:58 - FELLING A SMALL TREE 55:13 - BRANCHING 58:45 - ADDITIONAL BRANCHING/DE-LIMBING 1:02:17 - SPLITTING WOOD 1:07:50 - FINAL THOUGHTS & CONCLUSIONS 1:21:00 - OUTRO 1:21:14 - END SCREEN

[@emil8786]

whos timber did you just ruin? 🤔

[@bombsawaylemay770]

❄️

[@jimlahey5623]

This brand is going down, more and more people complain. I wouldnt pay extra money for something not relayable

[@gizmocarr3093]

Great looking axe, the head weight is too heavy for long use. Racing axes are heavy for fast powerful chopping. The weight of your axe has to fit the strength of the user. The cut of a log should not be any wider than the diameter of the the log being cut. That means an 8 inch log cut, should be 8-inches and no wider. Being slightly less narrow is better than being too wide. Then cut to half way thru and roll the log to the other side. If the axe blade is sticking you are swing to hard, the weight of the axe head does the work not the power of the swing. The cut you make should make a chip fly out for each two cuts you make. Cutting fresh cut trees, an axe is faster than a handsaw will be on soft woods. Your new axe is an excellently designed cutting tool. It takes practice using it and learning how it cuts best. You will quickly find out with practice be sure of that. 🪓🙂

[@PinkG10]

Thank you for taking the time to comment on my video! I really appreciate the input, feedback and inspiring words! I could def. need some extra strength and refined technique to fully utilize an axe like this. I totally get what you're saying about short duration use during competitions. Once again, thanks for dropping by!

[@gizmocarr3093]

@@PinkG10 What dulls the the edge of any axe is the bark of the tree. It has dirt and abrasive in the bark. That is what also scratches the blade of a mirror-polished axe.

[@bushcraftrex5394]

@@PinkG10 I can highly recommend Kettlebell hardstyle training. It makes you strong as a bear if you stick to it. Doesnt require long hours to. For serious chopping, felling , especially bucking...remove all the tape stuff, overstrike guard can stay if you want. So your other hand can guide along the shaft properly. Put aside a spare handle if you fear for it