Why I've Stopped Mulching My Beds With Compost

[@HuwRichards]

I just want to mention that every garden is different, and to truly know what best applies to you is all about context and means trying out different methods to see what brings you the best results. There is no real right or wrong for most things in gardening, I am just sharing this video as food for thought, and to be open and honest about my reasonings based on my own experience of multiple experiments over the past few growing seasons. My goal is to have less dependence on compost, and so the compost I do use I want to make sure is as effective as possible, and let other natural resources protect the soil over the worst months. I will also make a video soon that explores the fact that some of my beds haven't and will not always get an additional application of compost on an annual basis. This will build on from the things I have covered or alluded to in this video, and I hope you find it very interesting! PS - You are absolutely allowed to disagree with me, I'm just observing how my garden responds to changes, and also that I try to follow as closely as possible what actually happens in nature (where compost isnt laid on the ground, rather organic material like leaves are, and then they decompose)

[@maruvandermerwe7809]

Thank you, Huw. As always, your videos are so informative and inspiring. I am from South Africa.

[@VoteThirdPartyorFourth]

Disagreed. Mulch is non-negotiable. GOOD mulch, at that.

[@HuwRichards]

@@VoteThirdPartyorFourth non negotiable for what sorry?

[@VoteThirdPartyorFourth]

@@HuwRichards for an ecosystem, dude. Nothing exists on its own. Buddhism calls this interconnectivity "emptiness." Without mulch, you're just another empathy-free European doing the botanical equivalent of foie gras. Basically every ecosystem besides deserts have dense, diverse ground cover.... OR significant leaf litter. 3"-4" of wood chips will do, and last a lot longer than straw. Using compost alone defeats the purpose: capillary action will dry out your soil and that eliminates habitat for your microbes. An inch of compost underneath 3 inches of wood chips accomplishes everything, better and easier.

[@magspies]

@@VoteThirdPartyorFourth 🤣did you watch the vid? Huw has just spent more than 13 mins talking about how important mulch is, esp in winter, just not with doing it with compost...

[@petereisenzopf7663]

I am a permaculturist in Albany NY. I have always waited until spring to apply compost to my annual garden beds for the reasons you describe and I think it makes a difference. It certainly does no harm. Great video. It is obvious that you are thinking about these topics deeply. Sharing your thought process is helpful

[@markthompson180]

From the US here - this topic interests me. From my perspective, I see "Mulch" and "Compost" as being separate things. I don't use compost to mulch soil. Here in the States, I think it's typical to take straw, leaves, and bark mulch to apply as mulch - and separately - use compost as a soil amendment. Two separate things. Apparently, over there in the UK, there is much less of a distinction between the two. Interesting.

[@HuwRichards]

Hi Mark, you've hit the nail on the head here! It has inspired a video - thank you!

[@freedombug11]

Yes, I'm from the U.S. too and I've thought the same thing.

[@Notturnoir]

@@HuwRichardsyes, here in the US cmposted soil is added to the gardening beds, while mulch (bark/pine needles)sits on top around the plants as a protector to hold in water/block sun. Also, we do cover crops like redclover to improve the soil and turn that over.

[@ocanadastandinguard6840]

Canada - definitely 2 separate concepts

[@apriljones8999]

In the UK here.. thought the 2 things should be separate too. Mulch should normally be straws, leaves or wood chips...this is confusing! 🤔

[@dougtheslug6435]

This is valuable information, it's good you did a vid on this. I've been gardening for decades now and probably only only have one left till I can't do it anymore. I put my compost on the beds in the spring, except where I grow my carrots, need to put compost in those 2 beds in the fall before winter as I'm sowing seeds very early when the compost pile is still frozen in the spring. The rest of the garden gets covered with a couple inches of leaves and a sprinkle of ashes from my firepit, both which is readily available all around me. In the spring I'll chop/hoe the remaining leaves into the beds and add compost and bone meal as I plant each bed and the compost pile thaws out layer by layer, it kind of works perfectly as I'm sowing/planting for a couple weeks. This is the first video I've seen on this which means your really dialed into your garden Huw, nice work. I don't leave many comments put this is a great topic and the heartbeat of any garden. Has anyone tried hanging mirrors on fences around the garden for some extra light in those hard to reach places? I keep buying them at the local thrift shops and have probably close to 25/30 out there now and they're just right to catch more early morning and late day light. Happy gardening everyone, sorry I rambled there.

[@Snappypantsdance]

Please consider using your time to train new young people:)?

[@MichaelGawesebmainone]

I am considering mirrors as electricity/lights would defeat purpose of growing own food. I’m hoping mirrors could offer cheaper option. I have beds mounted on top of each other and the one below can’t really grow much unless it’s a vining plant due to lack of sun. You have any suggestion on visuals of how it’s used or results?

[@dougtheslug6435]

@@MichaelGawesebmainone Not sure what you mean using mirrors for electricity/lights, do you mean redirecting light coming through your window to darker parts of the house?

[@paulineprice9534]

We are only 5 years into our allotment and learning all the time. We tend to put rotted manure and compost onto our beds around February time. Not sure if that's right but we did have bumper crops of veg & fruit this year. Our homemade liquid comfrey makes a huge difference as feed once the plants are mature. We scatter the remnants of the comfrey leaves atop our soil in October for the rain to water it in. Good tip on the mirror idea. Will certainly give that some thought for those dark corners. We never stop learning do we ? 😊

[@paulineprice9534]

I always have a large tank of comfrey juice leftover in September. Would it do any harm to use this up on our beds in autumn / winter?

[@leighcherry6491]

OMG. I am so glad you have talked about this. I am going to spread compost in spring as you have said. Last year we had so much rain , the soil was compacted. I was worried about waiting, but feel better about it now. So thank you 😊

[@Boater_Jessie]

Yes, Huw! I had the same light bulb moment and decided not to add compost till March. I found that crops grew better when I did this on my allotment. Last year I mulched in November after seeing everyone else at the allotment doing the same (I succumbed to peer pressure!) and I found my crops did not do as well as when I mulched in spring (following my gut instinct). Thank you for your honest gardening videos.

[@keithomelvena2354]

Indeed. Compost is a limited resource in my garden and I prefer not to buy it in and not just because of the expense. You can never be sure of its quality, or contamination status. Apparently animals eating feed that has been treated with hormonal herbicides produce contaminated manure. I like to use my own inputs.

[@urbugnmetoday3183]

In the fall I fill my beds with leaves, mowed clippings and end of the year comfrey …I buy compost from Mennonites, no chemicals put it in a month before I transplant or sow

[@bioboertuur]

Depending on what I want to grow, but I'm pretty much in the same time frame. The very early plantings, I'll compost mulch earlier, but more than anything else, I love shredded leaves in autumn. Mostly gone by spring and I can clearly see where I ran out of leaves. (100% sand, no loam/clay, OM in the low 1% range, youngly recovering corn field)

[@HuwRichards]

Thank you so much for sharing your experience! Really interesting to hear of similar experiences 🌿

[@erinwojcik4771]

​​​​@@bioboertuur, my city lot is similar. Previous owners used chemical fertilizers on the lawn and allowed the invasives to run free. Sand soil doesn't help. Come mid-June the first two summers here meant crispy brown grass. I was told by neighbors that if I wanted a lush yard, I would need to use loads of fertilizer and water regularly. I also had water issues in my basement on the south wall due to the neighbor's lack of rain gutters. A little hauling of street tree leaves back into my yard fixed both the damp basement and the lack luster lawn in just two years. I will admit, I still have to deploy chemicals for one variety of highly persistent invasive, but I went from an initial blanket treatment in triplicate to spot checks a few times each summer to keep the creeping charlie under control. I overseeded white clover on my lawn as well to not have to fertilize anymore. However, any good gardener knows that elimination of one problem always allows a new one to emerge. My new problem seems to be powdery mildew.

[@runningwarrior5468]

I put crushed leaves or grass on my beds here in Upstate NY to have SOMETHING over it, (snowy zone 6b) and then put the compost down in the spring. The leaves and the grass that I pulled back is the bottom layer for the newly emptied the compost bin for the following year.

[@JoeSmith-s1o]

I am glad you have had this revelation. I have never mulched over winter with compost as like you say its way too valuable especially if it gets washed out from rain and I cant even create enough compost to mulch everything in my garden I have always always mulched with autumn leaves and chop and drop comfrey, grass etc I find come spring and planting time my beds are WAY more filled with worms who have pulled all that lovely plant matter into the ground turned it into vermicompost and air-rated the soil without me having to do a thing!

[@ohio_gardener]

My raised beds are filled with just compost and Biochar, and they have always been very productive. Every fall I add a layer of 2" or 3" of new compost to compensate for the drop in the beds as the beds used by the plants, and then mulch them with several inches of wheat straw for the winter months. The straw protects the compost from the winter's wind, rain, and snow, while allowing earthworms to continue working the compost.

[@hettispaghetti6061]

I always really appreciate your videos as they're not preachy. You offer information as a way of interrogating the logic of a particular method. This way of presenting information helps myself and others reflect on our growing practices in each individual context and offers avenues in to notice things that may or may not be working. I really appreciate your creativity, openness and mindfulness. My only green space is my allotment plot. I generally leave crops in the ground or use green manures rather than mulching in winter. I add a layer of compost over crops like garlic. Otherwise I only mulch over less hardy perennials (eg dahlias) as a way of offering frost protection, I use free wood chippings or fallen leaves netted down. And then I wait until spring to use compost when planting out annuals - this is partly because it allows me to stagger the amount of compost I need as I get around to planting each section. I make a lot of my own compost but I need to buy at least some each year, and as someone on a low income it's better for my finances to buy smaller amounts of compost each month rather than bulk buy.

[@heatherkirkup6391]

Thank you, Huw, for sharing your thoughts on this. I appreciate your willingness to grow, learn and change from your observations and experiences in the garden. This makes so much sense! I am fortunate that I am now creating all of my own compost, including leaf mould to make a seed mix. But I too was rather miffed to know that the rain was washing so many nutrients away. Always learning is fun! 🌱🙏🏻🌱

[@tinkeringinthailand8147]

Here in Thailand I put compost down a week before putting in my propagated seedlings, I do this all year round and my crops and beds are fantastic, so much soil life :)

[@Tippler0611]

You wrapped words very well around a difference I had noticed between gardeners as well... Whether compost is for feeding or protecting soil. As a US gardener, I have battled with the idea of leaving compost on the surface as mulch where it is exposed to rain or irrigation, temperature variances, and UV. I often use half-finished compost with the knowledge that the larger things will find their way to the top and act as a shield while the nutrition goes down to the roots. I do like to clean things up in spring so the overwintering slugs are moved to the compost where they might do some good. The rest of the time I keep a messy, mulchy surface so the bugs and frogs and snakes can move in and keep things balanced. I just threw down mustard as cover this morning, as the cover I put down in October wasn't sprouting well. In the past I'd had it flower all winter and it was lovely to see the bright flowers covered in bees on a sunny January day.

[@sowgrowandcook]

Hi Huw, I agree that rain can wash away/compact mulch or compost. I still apply compost or manure and top with autumn leaves and cover with black plastic or tarp that I’ve used year after year. Seems to work well if the amendments are protected - and the worms can continue to digest everything for 6 or 7 months.

[@carmellajames8331]

Hey Huw. Amazing how we're always learning and so important to not be afraid to challenge the norm. I'm from NZ an hr sth of Auckland and we get a lot of rain through winter and spring. ❤ I'm no dig and let weeds grow in my beds through winter along with some leafy crops such as silverbeet and spinach. In late spring I chop and drop all weeds, add grass clippings then cover with my compost. I plant into this and before summer arrives and spring rains have stopped I will cover the beds with hay to now trap the moisture for summer. I find this feeds the worms well through our hot dry summers. What you are doing sounds pretty similar. Hope it all goes well for you.❤

[@ndamulelogumani]

I like this dude, always trying new things. My kinda gardener guru

[@maxiemills6982]

for the first time, this year, I have attempted to grow a cover crop in my raised beds. My composted leaves and grated pumpkins, and coffee grounds should be ready to spread on my beds in spring. You videos have helped me a great deal in making my garden a better place. Thank you from Spokane Washington.

[@TrixiaDK]

Talking about grass clippings. After the first cutting, we tried something new (for us) We took the fresh grass clippings into some containers, and planted potatoes in it. No soil, only grass clippings. The potatoes were the best we had all summer. We will definitely be doing that next year 😃

[@psisky]

You've made me want to try that.

[@paulineprice9534]

​@@psiskyme too! What a great experiment!

[@thepandaman]

Hi Huw, great video. I've been watching you for ages, and recently stumbled upon a podcast episode you did with "My Self Reliance", which sent me off down a rabbit hole of exploring ramial woodchip which you'd mentioned. I think I'm appreciating more and more the permaculture way of thinking, which is just to make use of whatever natural resource you have in abundance. For me, I've got some tree prunings, but also in the process of weeding a very large natural pond, so getting plenty of organic matter from that for mulch/compost.

[@AmandaReid0000]

Yes I think it’s good thinking. My dad did exactly that and always grew wonderful veg. He waited until late winter to compost/manure the beds just like his dad did before that in Ireland.

[@lorebrown5307]

There was an old man in my Aunties neighborhood who grew incredible yearly gardens from only composted leaves off his front yard tree. Jim Kovakeski in Maine U.S. grows an entire market garden from grass clippings only. I'd like to see nutrient reports from veg grown solely with grass clippings. That would be interesting.

[@beateschluter664]

IT will depend on your soil. Mine ist pretty sandy and grass clippings, only, just isn't enough for most of the annuals. I found out when my soil became less aerated year after year.

[@chrissiehart22]

I think your absolutely right Huw! I remember being told when I buy my compost to only buy what you need and make sure it's this season's for exactly the same reason ,it's sat outside and the rains washed most of the goodness away. But thank you for reminding me and we've had snow and forgot to pop extra leaves on my beds x

[@1millionpumpkins542]

I'm discovering here in NE Arizona zone 6b that different mulching has different functions. Compost lays directly on the soil surface and adds nutrients, but without a layer of straw type of mulch, it does not shade or protect from wind. A third type of mulch is using sticks and branches to create a structure that can shade or insulate. I am also learning that soil life comes in layers, too. There is the rhizosphere underground where root exudates stimulate microbes. The dead microbes and tiny animals create necromass, the carbon-rich dead bodies they leave behind to be taken down by rhizosphere dwellers. On top of the soil is the detritus sphere, where insects, toads, etc hang out. They need a thick layer of fluffy straw, leaves, chop and drop, etc to eat and hide in. In the open air, the leaves of the plant are coated with more microbes. Also, their stomata open up to take in the CO2 emitted by the creatures in the detritus sphere. Plants make exudates out of their tops to attract herbivores (I call nectar, pollen, fruits, and leaves etc that plants create in the open "exudates" because a plant is a Giving Tree above and below! ❤

[@BryanRezendez]

I run a no-till farm. We apply 2" of compost between each crop harvest and bed flip. Some beds have 4-6 crops per year. Don't put it on in winter. Put it on when your soil is alive, soil is sleeping in winter. We use top dressing with "weed free" compost to avoid most weeding.

[@HuwRichards]

I love the idea of "put it on when the soil is alive"! Thank you for sharing 🌿

[@BryanRezendez]

@HuwRichards things like worms are obviously active year round. But creatures like bacteria can go dormant at lower temps. In nature, there is a massive spike in the spring of nitrogen that slowly tapers over summer. This is because plant matter builds up over winter while bacterial activity is very low. In spring, the nitrogen cycle begins as temps warm. First ammonia is produced, then a bacteria converts that to nitrites, and then another bacteria converts that to nitrates, which are plant available. As a home gardener, we are able to apply organic matter or amendments to keep that cycle functioning at an elevated level all year without the natural decline. As long as there is a food source, optimal temps and moisture, your soil life will do the hard work for you.

[@frederickorcutt9112]

​@@BryanRezendezI've wrestled with the idea of doing nothing over winter for my soil. Now I worry less than when I lived in the mountains of NH though. The growing season up there was painfully short so I felt doing nothing was a big mistake. I tried in bed composting overwinter with layering leaves, grass, hay, compost, small broken up sticks, red wigglers all mixed up under a thin layer of top soil, cardboard and weed barrier (or black plastic for narrow bed runs) to insulate the mix under the snow. There were usually some pockets that didn't turn out so well but it's always full of life! Now that I'm in PA I'm not sure if that method would work well with how often the ground is exposed to sunlight in the winter.

[@RFranks]

I reserve some compost as extra mulch for more hungry plants like squash. Having some cover crops or less demanding ones where it's spread thinner can work well. I've also found the combination of green manures and compost has given the best results overall.

[@ronanmcadam7251]

What a fabulous presentation, of ideas, questions and some paths forward

[@HortiHugo]

Great to see the progress in your thinking Hew, our compost is such an important source of humus and microbial activity. Great camera and editing work, very enjoyable. All the best there, Hugh

[@emkn1479]

Yes, such a precious resource and so laborious to create. I’ve found issues with mulch and slugs over winter/spring, so I’m torn on what to do. I still have plants growing, might just leave them die over winter and worry about it in spring, or remove plants once they’re done and put down cardboard, so I can easily lift and clear out pests. Still working on it…we are also aging a load of horse manure but I’m cautious about included weed seeds…been burned before!

[@sherryberry2394]

You are a one of a kind small garden vlogger, you are helping me so much. Much love from Havana, Florida.

[@retrobob3802]

I've taken a similar approach too. Given I'm not going on them for months I'm chucking leaves, veg scraps, chop and drop, bit of ash from fire straight on the bed and leave it (or leaf it LOL). Will need to stop probably in December to give enough time to break down.

[@HuwRichards]

That alone does wonders!

[@lorebrown5307]

Same here but I start with a layer of composted horse manure with sawdust as the farms use free sawdust bedding. The sawdust absorbs/retains some of the snow/rain

[@nicklowe2710]

Thanks Huw, really good to have some confirmation of this logic. I recently started using grass cuttings + shredded leaves as a mulch in the fall (mimicking nature), then applying compost in spring as you suggest. One benefit is it gives you extra time to make compost! I do wonder as you said how much compost you actually need if you are mulching in the fall and adding the organic matter that way. Makes me think you could use less compost for beds which leaves more for propagation and tub growing. Would be good to see a few trials of that approach vs adding compost! Thanks again for all your content

[@bowtielife]

I'm not sure what part of the US Joshua hails from, but our family has always used a lot of compost. I grew up in upstate New York and Louisiana, adding several inches of compost each year. As a result, I've added between 8 to 14 inches a year (with other components) here in Florida and previously in Arkansas. I think the biggest determining factor is availability. I have access to a real mountain of free compost now and plan to use every bit I can. The plants seem to always know how much they need and leave the rest for the next crop.

[@tomb2139]

I use lots of straw to mulch almost all of my plants. its fairly cheap to buy a big bag and it creates a nice insulation barrier for my soil. it keeps water in without being swampy and gives worms some nice organic matter to break down. because its fairly low nitrogen and high in carbon its also great for fungal driven soil which really supports soil health. its made everything super low maintenance, it stays frost free over winter and moist during the summer with just rain. ive tried with leaves but I have found those create a mat that sticks together so the soil doesnt breathe. I have really heavy clay soil so adding straw to help the soil structure has been a godsend

[@intentionallymade]

US here-We have always added compost during the spring for fresh planting and any time I plant I’ll add a little to that spot. I use straw to cover my beds over winter.

[@dano956]

You make a very good point. I have already covered my garden with compost but I also covered with leaves and here in Canada my garden will be under a meter of snow until mid march.

[@smas3256]

Good Job Huw Richards. Thank you. From USA. Last couple years we've put down compost then chopped leaves on top in the fall. Zone 6b. We were growing great plants and not much veggies. We used straw mulch Last winter and spring got so much rain though. We kept compost covered with tarps. Great video and comment section. No compost this winter and covering garden with chopped leaves. Will rake leaves to the side a couple weeks before spring to warm the soil and add compost then. No more straw mulch either.

[@mareeploetz5194]

Interesting thinking and reasoning. Thanks Huw! My attempt to No dig or now minimal disturbance needs huge qualities of compost that I can’t produce. Compose is very precious. I’ve been experimenting with chop and drop/ + grass clippings and a thick layer of straw to over winter and improve soil.

[@keithomelvena2354]

Good advice. That's where Charles Dowdings' system falls over a little, the sheer amount of compost required. I would tend to lean towards your system. Cover crops over winter and apply my limited compost pre planting in spring. Mulching with barley straw where needed once crops establish. In saying that, I have begun chipping my woody material which will give me many more possibilities as it breaks down long term.

[@MayonnaiseVenusaur]

You're the gardener. I'm the ecologist who wants to learn about gardening. I'm convinced it is better to put down compost in the Spring. However, I don't think putting down compost in the Fall all those years was a waste. Sure, some of it washed away. But your garden is very porous; that's why it functions. It damn sure didn't do anything bad.

[@theborderer1302]

Every few years I also like to add volcanic rock dust to boost mineral content in the soil. I think this is important for trace elements which naturally deplete over time and won't be replenished by compost alone. I add it in spring to avoid it leaching away in winter rains.

[@lorebrown5307]

Leaves actually have minerals too and can be on par with rock dust

[@theborderer1302]

@@lorebrown5307 Most of the minerals contained in fallen leaves have been reabsorbed by the tree, although you are right, some do remain, but not in the concentrations found in rock dust. What's most important about what's left in the dead leaf is a substance called lignin. This acts as a buffer for extremes of mineral flows within the soil, and can hold the soil nutrients in reserve. It is an excellent winter mulch.

[@asperrett]

I use my compost judiciously … adding it in when I plant. My two biggest resources here are grass and leaves, and I use both of those to mulch. And I like to use living mulches over the winter. Mostly I have used Austrian winter pea, which is great because you can eat the greens raw in salads or stir fry them, and it sows nitrogen into the soil. I have also experimented with hügelkultur principles in beds and in pots to get away from bringing in external inputs, including bagged soil and compost.

[@erinwojcik4771]

Any leaves or grass clippings spread on a garden bed is both compost and mulch at the same time. I started my garden simply by using the autumn leaves that were already a part of my yard. Eventually, I started building raised beds which meant I needed additional soil. I found a local horse stable looking to remove barn scrapings and hauled about 2.5-3 cubic yards of that home to fill the beds, but I did it late in the season and left them dormant for the autumn and winter. They have beautiful, rich, fluffy soil now. All summer, every time the lawn was mowed, I added a thin layer of clippings around the base of each plant to reduce evaporative water loss. Any extra clippings got mixed into the compost bin along with shredded paper from destroying old tax paperwork. As for those leaves I started using, I still mulch everything down heavily with them each winter. Come spring whatever hasn't rotted away will be raked into the compost bin to finish breaking down. My neighbors have mixed feelings about the way I garden. Some love that I'm gardening but think I should be using modern chemical based techniques. Some like it just as I have it. Others loath it entirely complaining that it is going to attract racoons, skunks, and the like. I'm not worried because the abandoned house down the street does that anyway and these same neighbors aren't complaining about that yard growing wild. Maybe next spring, I will lay cliam to it and make it an extension of my garden. I've become known as the local plant lady, and I don't shy away from being the person taking the wheelbarrow up and down the block collecting the leaves everyone else is removing and hauling them all back into my garden. My biggest year was 2023. I moved 80 wheelbarrow loads of leaves (rough estimate of 2 cubic yards) which consisted of a mix of species including but not limited to: sugar maple, norway maple, silver maple, little leaf linden, white pine, cotton wood, honey locust, paper birch, lilac, roses, and blue spruce. As well as landscape plants such as hostas, Solomon's seal, peonies, shasta daisies, hydrangeas, and lilies. Basically whatever the neighbors put at the curb for the city to remove goes into my garden. It's not difficult to compost. Make a pile of leaves and plant based kitchen scraps in the autumn. Next spring plant your garden in it. Thus, I have an abundance of compost and don't view it as something precious. It is just more dirt to fill divets in the lawn or sunken corners of the raised beds. I use it as potting soil for my house plants and summer time hanging baskets. It just exists with what I consider to be very little effort on my part.

[@Boterhammetpindakaas]

Thanks for sharing, this year I started gardening on an allotment and I have been puzzling on how to get enough compost of my garden and how to best use the little compost I can produce myself to the maximum. I've been putting in a lot of perennials, just as you mentioned in the last bit of your video. But still, I went from 5 square meters to 50+ square meters for my annuals. Reading through the comment section might help even more!

[@beansbrewsandbread]

Food for thought Huw. I tend to think that as with everything in gardening there is no necessarily right or wrong way to approach this. I can understand that if you have only a small compost system you might want to treat what is a precious resource to an application before planting time in March to stop loosing some of the goodness to rain and leaching, but if you have tonnes of the stuff and its in various stages of being finished I can see how you might want the winter to help it break down further by applying it then. Same again for manure - you would probably want a good winter to help break it down and work into the soil better - otherwise it would be too hot to use straight away in Spring. Also from a practical position you've got to think about getting the stuff moved on rather than just storing it indefinitely. FWIW this year I'm applying a 15cm depth of manure from a trusted source across most of the plot to mulch and kill the weeds to get a new start next year after having tried in many years to just use compost. We just couldn't keep the compost producing enough to apply across the whole plot in previous years and it badly needs some bulk adding to it. At least that's the plan! Cheers, Andy

[@HuwRichards]

Hi Andy Very interesting and absolutely agree with no right or wrong, it is all about context! Great work regarding the manure! My dream scenario would be to have an organic farm next door and just mulch all my beds with manure in autumn - done and dusted!

[@beansbrewsandbread]

@@HuwRichards If only! 🙂 It's taken over 4 years to get a trusted source of manure for the plots - meaning that we had to make do with the compost we could actually make. A precious resource indeed! Thanks Andy!

[@janegarrud9527]

So interesting and food for thought. I didn’t actually mulch last autumn or even spring because it was soooooo wet. I finally managed to mulch just before planting and I’ve had better crops than the past few years. Now I’ve watched this I wonder if I’ve done something beneficial by accident!!!!

[@garthwunsch]

Steve Solomon, author of The Intelligent Gardener, advises that we only apply a very thin layer of extra high quality compost, perhaps less than an inch, and scuffle it into the top bit of soil. He uses a Tilther (Johnny's seeds), and I'll be buying one too... we're both north of 80 and need to find easier ways to garden. I've had a terrible problem with slugs, to the point that I can't grow anything that needs direct seeding. I used to mulch very heavy, and now have very rich soil... 14% organic matter, but the permanent mulch has to go. I'm mulching with leaves over winter then removing early spring to take away the slug hiding places. Much of the leaf matter will have been digested under the snow by the soil biology. Great video. We all change... Or suffer the consequences.

[@MissouriCrookedBarnHomestead]

I also don't believe that you have to put compost down every year. The purpose of composting by chop and drop or by adding aged compost is by improving the soil beneath. If we are doing that over and over, then eventually we should be able to draw back from putting it every year. At some point, the soil beneath should be nutrient packed enough to sustain and make plants thrive without relying on compost. In my case, I only added compost 1 time over a 3 year period when I felt the soil looked good enough.

[@rosengaertlein6041]

I love your account.... always inspiring... and the reason why I didnt stop gardening yet.

[@HuwRichards]

That's so kind of you thank you!

[@j.b.4340]

My gardens are all homemade compost, a bit of homemade char, mixed with the native soil. My plants want for nothing. I learned from You, C.Dowding, others, and using the resources available to me.

[@HuwRichards]

Love it! A fantastic feeling to have that closed-loop nutrient cycle!

[@alice_rabbit8345]

What is char? I’m a longtime gardener and feel silly I don’t know what it is!

[@db8444]

​@@alice_rabbit8345 biochar. Basically charcoal

[@donniecarter4981]

I'm here in Alabama USA and I feel you are right. It seems to be a waste to put your compost out before winter. I feel it leaches out and is less affective this way.

[@VitalDetox]

This is incredible, it was my biggest question I wanted to ask. If no dig is no bare soil but compost IS our soil why then leave the compost bare over winter? For the last two years I have covered my beds with sheep poo, comfrey and nettle leaves, jadam, rock minerals and any old veg plants. Onto of that I put a thick layer of grass cuttings (I love scything so always love an excuse to mow) and then, by spring, it's all composted down and ready for a layer of compost. I now feel much more confident about veering away from the accepted protocol. Thank you Huw x

[@ebradley2306]

I have started starting seeds in leaf mould and old potting soil. Working well so far. I, too, am focusing on having a self contained garden with the minimum of inputs just for the blueberries.

[@123uschie]

Good point about laying the compost in the spring vs fall.

[@alice_rabbit8345]

I put fresh horse manure in 30 gallon grow bags in June. Turned it a few times but didn’t add anything. By Halloween it was well rotted and looked like rich soil. I have a small garden so had plenty to spread over my beds before the leaves fell.

[@davidsmith663]

This is something I had problems with this spring. The soil was washed out. All the nutrients had pretty much gone. Now this winter, I am not putting compost on all the beds, but where I am composting a bed it will be covered in silage sheet. This will allow the works etc to do their thing, but it will stop the leaching. I have also sheeted my compost bin. Next year should be interesting.

[@earthbuddyeoin]

Living compost (organic matter turned regularly) mixed with vermicast is the best thing to build the soil food web in your soil. Mulching with the above mixture in winter is a brilliant wow to get your beds ready for planting.

[@davidrowe8747]

I've been mulching my beds with grass clippings and shredded leaves for years. Saves money on bought compost, and keeps back the rich homemade compost for planting season in spring (and gives it the winter months to continue composting). It's a no-brainer. And the neighbours like me for raking up all the leaves from their front gardens!

[@danfarkas5375]

I mulch my beds in winter out of needing to empty the compost bin to start a new pile. It does make a lot of sense to spread in March though. It seems like the protected compost would have more microbes in it compared to the compost being exposed to the elements.

[@andrewperkin2179]

Thats my stuation aswell. But I feel the microbes can cope out in the open as Huw says they respond fast as the temperatures climb. In any case where else would they go but a few cm down into the previous years compost.

[@frederickorcutt9112]

I'm in USDA zone 6 and used to pile on new compost each spring. This year I switched it up a little but I still use leaves and grass clippings to cover the soil in the fall/ winter when crops come out. The first new tactic are my fall chicken tillers who will be moved out of the garden bed in the next couple weeks. Additional leaves will be thrown on then to cover the bare soil and protect the life in it. I am switching to vermicomposting and comfrey tea and am no longer bringing in inches of compost each year. I'll only amend directly at the plants that need additional nutrients. I have a very small scale vermicompost system now that will expand in the spring and I planted 7 comfrey this past season to set up for next season's comfrey tea bin. I'll still bring in a bit of top soil and some mushroom compost for the mycelium benefits but not yards and yards worth like before. Adaptation to your specific needs will always create room for argument with other growers. Trial and error is the only way to know if a system works for your property. Share your experience and appreciate what knowledge others have to offer!

[@marijeb278]

Oh Huw, just when I had finally had taken your advice and put my garden "to bed" with a nice layer of compost ;) But I can fully understand your point, esp in gardens with compost shortage. And it also touches on something I still don't understand: why using compost as mulch means that your soil is no longer "bare". I mean; that compost I use as a mulch is the same compost that I fill my beds with. So I always go double with compost and a toplayer of old straw/hemp of leafs, whatever I have at hand. Not only for the soil, but also because it seems a hideaway for frogs and insects, which I can always use to combat slugs

[@elizabethpare9465]

I'm in Canada, zone 5a. It gets really cold here (-30C), so I've never been too sure how to use cover crops because they really don't have much time to grow after my vegetable growing season until the ground gets dead frozen. I have been mulching over winter with a mix a grass clippings and dried leaves from the trees on my property. By the time I'm ready to add compost in the spring (I was also concerned about the leaching from the snowmelt, seeing as snow gets to about 1.5m - 2.5m thick, and heavy spring rains aspect so always added compost in spring) the mulch layer is pretty much all gone and the ground is buttery soft and full of worms. I have very fertile ground as a thick top layer (about 30cm or a foot) with a clay underlayer, but I feel like my plants the last two years have not been as lush. This could be from conserving water as i basically only water when the plants are seedlings, first 2-3 weeks or so, and when we get no rain for over 3-5 days (3, for smaller plants, 5 by the end of the season) which really does not happen very often! I would like to know more about the use of bio-char/ash amendment. Have you made a video on this? Thx!

[@dougtheslug6435]

Zone 4b Canada here and it's the same for me, my piles takes a couple years to compost so I have 3 bays full of it to sustain my garden.

[@jamesgaz788]

same here, north of montreal...

[@urbaninterlude]

I'm living in the driest capital city in Australia. Here we consider compost and mulch entirely different things - compost is for soil organics, mulch is for weed suppression and preventing water loss. I have been building up a garden in the front yard that was previously sand and an invasive runner grass. We put down lime (it was pH 4), chicken poo, cardboard (bike boxes are great for big areas), clayey soil from old raised beds (giveaway on marketplace) compost, then mulching with a mix with bark, woody material, munched up plant stuff. It keeps the soil cool and moist beneath on our 40ºC, low humidity days.

[@HoboGardenerBen]

I've experimented with various soil toppings and have settled on using fallen leaves on the garden beds and wood chips for the paths. Wood chips are too harsh for veggies unless you mix in some chicken manure or other high-nitrogen source. Leaves work great, are abundant and free and easy to move around. In one action they gentle the force of the rain, insulate from the deep cold, keep the soil cool and moist in the growing season, and fertilize the bed in an ongoing slow burn. Haven't found any need for additional fertility. If needed I'd just make some fertilizer from watering down my piss and hardwood ashes. I generally give that piss to the trees whose leaves I gather for mulch to close the loop.

[@zoewhite7705]

Interesting. I think the idea of putting it down in autumn is so the worms etc have time to break it down before you plant your veg, therefore making sure the nutrients are ready to be absorbed. But with the rainy winters we now have I also have been wondering how much of the good stuff is being washed away… I think putting it on in spring is a good compromise. Still might be good to put down in autumn in herbaceous borders though, to protect the crowns of your perennial plants over winter though - I’m about to do a layer of nutritious compost topped with a layer of wood chips to protect from the weather.

[@HuwRichards]

Compost is already broken down, so worms are irrelevant as they bring down organic material like leaves or grass clippings which will then decompose. This is why I much rather mulch with organic material over winter, and then organic matter in spring.

[@kaneaspey05]

That’s what I gathered from these videos, that the compost is taken down by the life in the soil over winter and to have some sort of cover to protect it from the elements.

[@HuwRichards]

@@kaneaspey05 the difference really is between organic material and organic matter and the natural core functions of soil life. And also I very much question everything I do and have realised that some things I've said before aren't what I end up truly believing once I come across a better alternative in my context.

[@ricos1497]

​@@HuwRichardswhat a terrible attitude. Everyone knows that "don't back down, double down" is far better than questioning yourself. Sincerely, L Truss

[@HuwRichards]

@@ricos1497 hahahahah😂

[@magspies]

this feels exciting! 🙌there are some, well garden 'influencers', who've spread some great ideas, but also a lot of random non-scientific stuff that they 'just believe'...stuff that just mighnt be the most beneficial for the majority of people (or the envirnoment). i got caught up in it too at first...that it was a whole method, rather than looking at each 'recommendation' in and of itself. looking forward to your new book!👏

[@jonridgeon1557]

An important thing: If you add compost in the Spring time before sowing your seeds, when you make your seed drill, do not sweep surrounding new compost into your seed drill over your seeds, because in my experience this new compost tends to be more fluffy and dry out which means that your seeds can become dry and not germinate well. What i do is, before putting the compost down, i gather up some buckets of the top soil from the surface and then use this to fill in my seed drills later.

[@darthwolverine747]

Makes total sense. I mulch with other organic matter from annuals (leaves, straw, even coarser cocoa coir), and add compost in spring in between plantings.

[@kath-phlox]

I've never done the winter compost thing, it didn't make sense to me, all the nutrients are washed very low down in winter. While the plants are young, they need those nutrients accessible. It was common sense to me, I'm glad someone has actually thought the same as I've always done.

[@DrNickBailey]

Leaves - exactly! That's where the magic is, but sadly I don't have enough in my garden. I haven't brought compost for years now - it always seems too expensive.

[@BalticHomesteaders]

I'm intrigued how you ground that biochar up so fine? Will you do a process video of some sort? Thanks

[@HuwRichards]

That was biochar sent to me, however I prefer to use more rough char🌿

[@sultanbev]

I always mulch with leaves, grass cuttings, chop'n'drop leaves/stems, weed leaves, woodchip, the limited compost that I have available is used to feed the soil under new mulch layers. In effect it is a bottom mulch layer, not a top layer. If available I always put the woodchip as the top layer. (NW England, which nearly gets as much rain as your Wales!)

[@barbaracoates6814]

Here in western washington i overwinter greens for family and chickens. I only pick the leaves and let the roots continue all winter to nourish the soil.

[@vivambrosiussen2568]

In qld Australia…mulch with sugar can mulch to keep moisture in during HDR heat and to absorb heavy rain and protect soil during very wet days. Compost ..yes very precious indeed…goes sparingly into the soil to feed the soil. Usually always something growing every season.

[@tiger1554]

Compost and wood chips(mulch) is free out here in some counties in Maryland, USA. I need compost because every season my soil gets washed away and I don't want to leave my precious higher quality raised bed soil unprotected to the harsh elements of zone 7. I also use compost to layer onto my plants that overwinter.

[@howardgresham1975]

UK here. Very heavy wet cold soil. I've been spreading about an inch on my big veg patch every autumn. Then rotavating in spring. Started the garden in a corner of my field 45 years ago. Still nasty clay. Three years ago had about ten tons well rotted farmyard manure. Spread it about 6" thick after using a fork to heave and lift to ket some air in( non inversion 'digging'). Left it over winter. In spring garden rotavator wouldn't start so just used a Durtch/ push hoe twice a week for 3weeks. All that muck just mixed in to the top 1"-2". Best year ever. Now do the same but with home made compost. I'm lucky ,I have access to unlimited organic feedstock for my composting bins, but I think that the quantity is king. I was 'wasting' my home made compost by digging or ploughing it in. My clay need 10 times the organic matter that I was giving it to kick start it. Now more normal ammounts to maintain. Just hoe, never dig, occasional lift with fork, have given the rotavator/tiller away. It eas creating a smear pan 3"" down.( Impervious layer of clay)

[@KristinGasser]

As I cannot buy any compost here, I had to start my garden from scratch… or better from a wild field with nettles and 2 m high blackberries, last year. I made some nice Terra preta compost but not enough for all the beds, so I tried different things, to start new beds: from hay mulch potato’s, to no dig with cardboard and compost, to bare soil, to mulch with everything, collect leaves in the forrest and sheep poo in the surrounding fields, to cover crops, to lasagne beds. 😅 And as I had sooo many nettles and blackberries everywhere and the blackberry vines are so ugly to move, I chopped them roughly and made little mounts of nettles and blackberries directly in place… a year later it was the most amazing rich compost and I only had to rake it on the beds. What worked best and was the easiest thing by far (in terms of beautiful living fluffy soil and very few work) were the hay mulch potato’s and the lasagne beds. They don’t look so beautiful and clean like the compost beds, but they grow food like crazy. Because my garden is on a slope and I am lazy, I started this year not to carry or drive the weeds or harvest left overs from one side to the other side of the garden to the compost. Instead I throw them on the walkways or a little mount directly besides the bed and let it start to die and rott. I spread the finer material between the plants as mulch and the bigger material stays on the mount until the end of season. Now it’s my winter mulch… again… it doesn’t look very nice, but the soil life seems to love it. So in the end, I’m happy that I hadn’t the chance to go the easy way and buy compost but to rely on what I had… 🤷‍♀️😅

[@rickthelian2215]

Cover crop, then use protected compost when chopping the cover crop for summer growing period. Feeding the soil, cover crop protects the compost while breaking down after terminating it.😊

[@hilarylonsdale608]

I'm interested to see how this goes! I've never had the resources to mulch with finished compost so can't comment on the experience. I have mulched with roughly composted manure in winter to allow time for it to break down enough for planting which was of benefit. In my part of the UK we only get 24 inches of rain in a whole year so again, different environment.

[@Knit333]

If I had such beautiful compost I would also wait till spring. I use leaves on my beds in combination with, my very coarse, compost during the wintermonths. I may not have the best looking vegetable beds because of this, but it works for me.

[@JC-kh1ut]

I have always put compost on in autumn and then cover with a tarpaulin keeping water off and only remove when ready to plant. The bugs , worms and mice do their thing , interestingly the thickness of the compost has half over the 6 -7 month when the cover comes off.

[@An.era.we.will.never.forget]

Huw, I make weed teas for my soil. Each is seperate, grass, nettle, comfrey, banana flower and leaves, and one that gets the weeds, clippings, tomato foliage, herbs trimmings, chicken poo, angelica, ginger, yarrow, mint, etc.. I never imagined these teas could make a difference but the garden has exploded this spring. The teas contain leaf mould from a part of the garden. The leaf mould is vital. If you can't get any, use milk kefir Whey. I cup is brilliant. This method is similar to the Korean natural farming method, but different. Compost I use is to grow better soil. Approx 40cm in 4 years.

[@newgabe09]

I garden in tropical/subtropical Australia where we don't have 'no growth' winters but do have dry then rain seasons. Compost and mulch are quite different and used in different ways. I've never come across the idea of 'mulching' with compost- by laying it down then leaving it bare to leach away in a season when plants aren't growing . Seems very odd and wasteful. Good compost is gold!. We use lots of mulch to prevent soil drying out in dry season or washing away in wet. We can get sugar cane straw to use as mulch very cheaply, or use chopped drop/ leaves from perennial/everygreens. Using leaves for mulch makes total sense in temperate climates where the leaves fall off the trees at exactly the right time to be gathered for mulch.

[@Jorduan100]

For a couple of seasons I've been doing a load of chop and drop (covered with cardboard) on raised beds for annuals, and loads of free scavenged ramial woodchip on perrenial areas. Been working pretty good!

[@Iamhome365]

Do you chop it up real small? I was half thinking of trying this

[@Jorduan100]

@@Iamhome365 Indeed I did!, just used a real big bucket and some garden shears and got some good free exercise with it

[@pennythompson4790]

I mulch with grass clippings over winter & put compost on in spring/summer when I plant out xx

[@boysrus61]

I have been thinking this same thing in the back of my mind here in Idaho. I have leaf mulch in a 2 year loop and in October I put that glorious stuff on my beds to make room for year 1 to move to year 2 bin BUT, I too wondered if if was spreading the gold too early to sit all winter. Maybe next year I will make year 3 bin and save it until spring to put in my garden boxes. Maybe one difference I do do is that I put freshly mulched leaves over the compost as the final layer for winter.

[@lemonladyYT]

UK here and I've never applied compost until it's needed as there's no point wasting nutrients. Mulch bare beds with 'chipped' veg stalks and leaves or grow a cover crop to prevent weeds and add fresh nutrients through the winter. Or cover with cardboard, weighted or pegged down.

[@lindasands1433]

I've always thought that mulching with compost was a waste, especially when there are many other resources that can be used as mulch. So thank you for this video Huw

[@felicitygee381]

I think this compost as mulch in autumn, is a hangover from old allotment(farming?) traditions of spreading fresh manure in the autumn on cleared beds. I read it was done because the manure needed the exposure to the elements over winter to breakdown into useable fertiliser ready for spring. seems to me a fast way to utilise a vast quantity of manure without needing space in a separate compost heap.

[@jamesgaz788]

As a new gardener from canada that hasnt started making compost yet, im happy mulching with grass clippings was a good idea...

[@weareyounique4234]

I’ve covered my bare beds with leaves. I’m figuring it all out Trial and error. My cabbages, failed squash and onion seeds are in the rest. If I could change anything, it would have been to leave my runner beans growing/dying back. Wasn’t until I pulled them and put in compost bin that I had that thought.. horse has bolted!! So leaves. They’re from a beautiful country park where the soil is beautiful

[@JG-nm9zk]

Hear in Alaska he add seaweed mulch for winter and compost in spring. The seaweed has disappeared by spring. We get 14 feet of rain mostly between fall winter spring.

[@jpennturner]

Hi, I usually add compost just before planting time as my garden floods every winter and spring and any top dressing just washes away, it works for me.

[@stephenx2857]

I have always thought of compost as "food" for soil life. If you put it on way to early. the soil life will consume it/use it. and then it's spent. Much prefer waiting like a month before planting season. give the beds a layer... plant into the compost. and then the first spring plants get the benefits of the compost being there. then a refresh for the summer growing... Down times for beds. cover crops. and then experimenting with that. nitrogen fixers in greens/grass planting beds previous season. oats/peas. hairy vetch. even things like grains, winter wheat. can make a ton of green matter. and often help pollinators or other little benefits (like some of the flowering cover crops. crimson clover as an example is quite beautiful)

[@mfr58]

Great insight. Thanks. I'm experimenting with a green manure, red clover this time as I'm in establishment phase. Great for developing structure and concentrating nitrogen.

[@HuwRichards]

Hope all the experimenting goes well, it is one of my favourite things about gardening!

[@smike9884]

One benefit of the traditional way is that it gives you a job during the cold months and saves you time later.

[@Iamhome365]

I really want a decent compost pile for next year! I threw all my fruit and veg scraps in the compost bin but it only made a small amount that i havent used yet but i intend to use pallets and get a proper one started using grass, cardboard etc. Have no clue where im going to find all the things to go into it though 😂

[@shadowstack]

Hi Huw, I love your channel and ordered your book. I'm curious what things do you order that you simply cannot produce on the garden? Things like Vermiculite for making potting soil. Do you have plans to be self sufficient with organic fertilizers like teas or worm bins? Thanks!

[@Zizzyyzz]

Brilliant! Love it!

[@HuwRichards]

Thank you!

[@ablasttv]

I had the same theory that I should wait to get compost for my new garden in the spring right before planting, but i do have some garlic to get in the ground this month for next year. I wanted to scatter it through all the beds to help with pests but maybe its just easier to give it its own spot and not have to try and add compost around them all in spring.

[@andrewperkin2179]

Great video Huw. Autumn or spring composting works for me. I make alot so its not so critical. So guess that puts me in the compost both as a mulch and compost camp. But the premise that compost washes away is a good question. Nutrients are bound into the organic matter, its different to the chemical or soil based nutrients as I understand. And since compost is being added onto compost layers from the previous years, if there is runoff thats where it goes. Huw like may of us uses wood chips the paths so again thats where any run off will go and the mycocelial and microbial life will benefit. Don't frosts also benefit compost by killing off potential pests? I like the use or perenials, but I find I'm always too late to plant cover growps as I leave other crops or weed on the beds, then I clear and compost. I'm also experimenting on putting a thin leaf mulch on my beds plus compost layer on top as I find leaf mulch often blows away if applied on top. I'm sure that the worms and fungi will get through this in time for spring plantings. As you say every garden is different. I will preserve one bed for spring application and see what happens!