HVACR: How A Refrigerator/Freezer Defrost Timer Works/Defrost Timer Troubleshooting/Sequence/Testing

[@bonganiedwardmthethwa6455]

Thumbs up to you man, I wish you were my teacher. I've never had anyone explaining so clear and precisely like this. Pls help people like us with more videos to improve our skills.

[@JumpermanTech]

Thank you Bongani! Really appreciate your comment 🙏 I'm glad you found this video helpful & I will continue to teach. I will be creating training courses so keep an eye out & subscribe for new videos every week!

[@chapin57able]

Thank you very helpful, gracias

[@Barryd57]

Excellent video. No loud music, flashing lights, just an explanation of how things work.

[@greghughes9736]

I was looking forward to loud music. The flashing lights a bonus. Lol. Not really. Good content from this guy.

[@livingstones1196]

Terminal 1 is Hot not Neutral, as you can see, 1 feeds switches 2, 4, and the timer motor which is then connected to the neutral at the plug through terminal 3. Again, terminal 3 is NOT power, it is the neutral leg for the motor. If 3 were power, there wouldn't be enough voltage to power up the compressor, light, fans because there would be a voltage drop across the motor and resistor in the circuit. In a typical circuit, the neutral is never switched, only hot. "Common" in this scenario means that terminals 2, and 4 share a "common" power feed. Hope this helps. Otherwise, you're articulation is great!

[@mh9251]

You are right. 3 is common or neutral. 1 is live or phase. Proof is the diagram itself 1 splits to 4 & 2. Secondly, you can see the resistor is placed on the side of 4,2,1, which is the side current comes from. Resistor is not on the side of 3. The work of resistor is to control the current or simply minimize the current to protect the motor. 4 & 2 after being tested can be determined which is for cooling (compressor) & heating (defrosting). The longer time you turn till you hear the tick sound is for cooling. The shorter turn till you hear the tick sound is for heating. Every manufacture can differ numbers, but can be determined by diagram shown and/or continuity test. So do not cram the numbers.

[@nickel2325]

Excellent! You are very clear, precise, and focused.

[@merquillehippolyte1967]

​@@mh9251live is phase

[@justinmorris-ux2ku]

THATS WHAT I WAS THINKING TOO...THOUGHT I WAS TRIPPING.......I WAS THINKING IF YOU PLUGGED NUTRUEL ONTO 1....SEEMS LIKE A SHORT TO ME

[@mh9251]

3 is common or neutral. 1 is live or phase. Proof is the diagram itself 1 splits to 4 & 2. Secondly, you can see the resistor is placed on the side of 4,2,1, which is the side current comes from. Resistor is not on the side of 3. The work of resistor is to control the current or simply minimize the current to protect the motor. 4 & 2 after being tested can be determined which is for cooling (compressor) & heating (defrosting). The longer time you turn till you hear the tick sound is for cooling. The shorter turn till you hear the tick sound is for heating. Every manufacture can differ numbers, but can be determined by diagram shown and/or continuity test. So do not cram the numbers.

[@abdallahamiri8527]

Exactly this guy he make people lost😅😅😅

[@stonereign6904]

Stop deceiving people, (M3) is Neutral (1) is common live terminal (4) is compressor (2) is defrost heater terminal.

[@Arieldny]

The best explanation I’ve ever seen about a defrost timer ! The best one by far !

[@JumpermanTech]

Thank you very much! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️

[@mh9251]

3 is common or neutral. 1 is live or phase. Proof is the diagram itself 1 splits to 4 & 2. Secondly, you can see the resistor is placed on the side of 4,2,1, which is the side current comes from. Resistor is not on the side of 3. The work of resistor is to control the current or simply minimize the current to protect the motor. 4 & 2 after being tested can be determined which is for cooling (compressor) & heating (defrosting). The longer time you turn till you hear the tick sound is for cooling. The shorter turn till you hear the tick sound is for heating. Every manufacture can differ numbers, but can be determined by diagram shown and/or continuity test. So do not cram the numbers.

[@danielnguyen2846]

I am an electronic technician and your video explains everything very clear. Thank you!

[@JumpermanTech]

That is awesome! You're very welcome & thank you! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️

[@JoseRodriguez-lg9yh]

You were phenomenal on your explanation , a thousand thumbs up for you…one of the best videos I ever seen on repairing stuff.

[@JumpermanTech]

Thank you very much 🙏 I appreciate the feedback. Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️

[@akselazulay4459]

best video among many that i have watched. this video is well explained . so to check your timer with a multimeter just watch this video and do not watch anything else. hundreds of thumbs up to you man . thanks

[@davidwaltzer2235]

Yopu are one of the best teachers on here . I am going to watch all your videos when I have the time! Thank you for your efforts!!!!

[@MrTIGERH1752]

Sorry, Resistors are measured in ohms, not micro farads. Capacitors are measured in micro farads, farads, Pico farads, etc. The 3W you are seeing simply indicates the resistors wattage, or power it can withstand. This resistor is about the right size for a 3 watt resistor. Greater wattage resistors get larger in size to accommodate greater heat from more current flow. Good job with explaining the contacts, and the circuiting. YES !!! I have multiple degrees in STEM, including an AS in refrigeration and Air conditioning, and Mechanical engineering. I taught HVAC at the College/trade school level. Tim

[@sherwinalvarez7365]

Man this came on time. I was having trouble diagnosing one of these on a Hoshizaki IM this week. You explanation was excellent. Very easy to follow and understand.

[@hkhan7004]

Sir, you are a natural Teacher. Your tone, your patience and your manner of explaining a difficult issue is second to none. Bravo and thank you. I am now able to troubleshoot why my refrigerator freezer is cooling but my refrigerator is hot because my defrost timer is busted. You helped me Defrost it via manually engaging the timer while I waited 3 days for my new timer to arrive. Thank you again. God Bless You!

[@chrisdsouza8685]

Hope everyone tells you that you are a great teacher !

[@delanoalexander958]

I have viewed many videos about the defrost timer. I must say that your technique and general explanation of it is exceptionally good. Thank you for your video. I was able to de the repair myself. Keep making videos please.

[@jmonte2811]

Excellent tutorial. I just went through a timer replacement but did not know how to trouble shoot. Now thanks to your tutorial I understand and am able to tet the failure. Thanks so much

[@billyhorton5779]

Clear and concise, amazing quality, keep up the good work!

[@JumpermanTech]

Thank you! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️

[@DOLRED]

Great electrical video, but these timers also fail mechanically when the motor gets old. The motor will stall and quit turning the wheel (Usually at a step position on the wheel) and this reeks havoc with Cooling operation. Then it will suddenly get its wind and start turning---maybe by someone slamming the refrigerator door at the right moment. It will cycle until the next impasse. The timer is bad and has to be replaced due to mechanical failure (Tired weak motor). Happened to me.

[@orcatchall]

Excellent presentation explains wiring and test points and what's physically happening. I'm a manufacturing engineer who had the good fortune to work with techs like you.

[@TheSamueldimas]

I like the way you explain everything. Clearly..you're the best.

[@Wings0fRed]

Awesome video! Very clear, easy to follow along, and straight to the point. Thank you!

[@raulb9991]

U did a good job on explaining on how to check th timer defrost and how it works.. It's a very good video thank you very much

[@joelgomez7368]

Great video. Thanks for breaking it down to terms anyone can understand.

[@ciskokidd5980]

Thank you for this detailed method of testing. Well done.

[@rajkumarponnuthurai9696]

Absolutely very clear explanation about a refrigerator electro mechanical defrost timer. Thanks for the video bro. Blessings. tc.

[@zeresenaighrmation6190]

Thanks my dear teacher, u are king of refrigeration so I hope to continue u explanation

[@MarioDallaRiva]

Incredibly “simple” when explained as you do and seeing the internals. Hard to believe how many things were outsourced to China for manufacturing. Crazy.

[@hoihaihoi]

Wow... Clear voice, clear explanation and clear video... Great man... Tq.

[@mh9251]

3 is common or neutral. 1 is live or phase. Proof is the diagram itself 1 splits to 4 & 2. Secondly, you can see the resistor is placed on the side of 4,2,1, which is the side current comes from. Resistor is not on the side of 3. The work of resistor is to control the current or simply minimize the current to protect the motor. 4 & 2 after being tested can be determined which is for cooling (compressor) & heating (defrosting). The longer time you turn till you hear the tick sound is for cooling. The shorter turn till you hear the tick sound is for heating. Every manufacture can differ numbers, but can be determined by diagram shown and/or continuity test. So do not cram the numbers.

[@Mungowongo]

The only reason I sat through this video listening to you is because you sound young, calm, patient and a good teacher. I also think you are handsome. God bless you and your parents. I also like to thank the YT Algorithm for bringing me this video.

[@JumpermanTech]

Haha thank you! I appreciate that very much. I think you have good intuition😎 God bless you too. I'm glad you found this video. Stay tuned for new videos every week! 🔧⚡️🙏🤙🙌

[@JumpermanTech]

I have never shown my face here for years but I think at 100k subscribers, I will do a face reveal and let people know who I am🙃

[@GordoSTI]

Exceptional vid! I am working on what may be the longest running unit in the WORLD here Its a Traulsen Digitraul Ref/Freezer URS48DT . It has the old (I mean REALLY old) defrost switch failing. The numbers dont match the Supco you have here and the wires are all diff colors pigtailed all over! I am going to now be able to match wires to function, with the new Supco. I am very thankful

[@GregProulx-m5v]

Outstanding information and delivery style! Exceptional command and knowledge of electronics and the mechanics of the timer!

[@1jonnydiesel]

You are a great teacher! Very well illustrated

[@dilippersaud3701]

Thank you very much, you are the best teacher. 👍🤝

[@stevothegreat]

Excellent in explaining the function of the defrost timer ! Is the motor build inside of the timer ?

[@hg2.]

Well done! You have a gift for presenting this material. "Keep 'em coming." 👍

[@toyinorodare4072]

Thank you! Your Explanation is very clear to understand

[@JumpermanTech]

You're very welcome & thank you! Appreciate the feedback🙏 Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡ Stay safe out there

[@michaelsteele305]

Very educational. Thank you very much.

[@hvacmaster96]

Neutral is always 3, the phase from the temperature thermostat comes to 1, then it goes to 2 when defrosting to the defrost thermostat, then to the terno diode and then to the heater. Greetings and happy work.

[@wiz1467]

Excellent informative video,this is as good as a community college electrical coarse. Great presentation!

[@dennisg9356]

Good Job!! I have the same problem with my subzero 532 (30 yrs old). Contacts 1-3 were OL on my meter. I went through your process of manual bypass and it was exactly the same. I've replaced the timer and am waiting to see if my freezer begins cooling normally (upper 1/2 was warmer than bottom 1/2). I'm confident we fixed it (you and I ;--))

[@iontheball1]

Great job. It is super precise and clear to understand. Nice recap with the final review. Thanks.

[@antoineblaise8365]

Je suis vraiment content merci beaucoup pour cette belle vidéo.

[@3dconceptsofutah757]

Thank you ! Great instruction!

[@kennyhagbergsomi7570]

Thanks for a great video! Cheers from Sweden! 🇸🇪💪🏻🇺🇲

[@JumpermanTech]

You're very welcome & thank you! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️

[@jaimefranco6410]

Excellent explanation 👌 👏 👍

[@johnnyriser8519]

Excellent, and well-explained video. Thanks for sharing!!

[@kennethlobo4420]

Pay attention to detail.Tip of the Day.

[@JumpermanTech]

Always! Thanks for watching & stay tuned for new vids Kenneth! 🔧⚡️

[@exgenica]

Are the Sears/Kenmore defrost cycles typically DISABLED when the refrigerator door is open (as detected by the refrigerator inside light switch)?

[@SonLe-yj7wz]

Thank you, this video is very lesson ❤

[@cetGT3]

Just one question…when the timer is running does the blue tab that you used to advance it also go around by itself while it is operating?

[@migueldominguez4311]

Great videos This is for mostly commercial walking freezer or also residential fridges thanks!

[@steveb9487]

Residential

[@mikeram5308]

Thanks for the Diagnosis of the Defrost Timer ⏲ Appreciate it 👏🙏

[@RovanRCTube]

Hi At this point with my Frigidaire GLHS67EHQ side-by-side refrigerator, I’ve replaced the damper, evaporator thermostat, and evaporator fan (which is running). Although the compressor was working, I decided to install a new start device since the unit is 12 years old and I was already cleaning the condenser coil. The damper is open, and air is flowing, but there doesn’t seem to be much velocity. The freezer is cold, but the fridge side remains warm. There’s no corrosion, and there’s no ice buildup on the evaporator. I also replaced the control panel, but that didn’t resolve the cooling issue on the fridge side either. I’ve checked and rechecked everything, including re-crimping the evaporator thermostat wires to ensure they were properly connected, but the problem persists. I’ve also removed the ice maker and top back panel to check for obstructions, and everything looks good. The vent by the crisper is clear as well. I’ve been working on this for days and am not sure what else I can check. Any further guidance would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for any ideas in advance. Dean

[@darellsunderlin4670]

Do you have a video of the wires , if ,as in my case, someone took the wires off so i dont know which goes were ?

[@Barryd57]

This video was helpful. My experience with a Maytag refrig/freezer may help. My Maytag has two thermistors that send data in the form of resistance to the main board. As the temp gets lower inside the freezer or refrig, the impedance increases & that info is sent to the Maytag main board. At zero degrees F, Maytag wants my freezer thermistor to read 22.7k ohms but my thermistor read 16k ohms and the replacements I bought online were also incorrect. Because of the inaccurate thermistors, the defrost cycle never occurred. While replacing thermistors is easy, obtaining thermistors that match Maytag's spec was not easy so what I did was add a 6.8k ohm resistor in series with the existing thermistor. When zero degrees is achieved, the impedance is now 22.8k ohms and that's important because until the freezers achieves zero degrees F, the main board will NOT turn on the defroster. Instead, the compressor will run w/o stopping until the overload switch on the compressor opens the circuit allowing the suction line & evap to defreeze. I acknowledge that the additional resistor will skew the warmer temperature impedances, but that didn't make any difference and because the food compartment should never drop to zero degrees, I did not install a resistor in its circuit. Bottom line, my Maytag now defrosts every 18 hours for 25 minutes. I recommend installing a temp sensor in the freezer and in the food compartment that accumulate data and send that data to your computer in the form of a csv file so you can measure and track your progress.

[@RamdaneSahed-o8f]

Hello thanks for the informations very interesting Frig reparater from Algeria

[@abdelazizlaanait5171]

Great! I appreciate your good way of explanation..

[@JumpermanTech]

Thank you! Appreciate the feedback. Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️

[@mannymanny159]

Terrific! I'm attempting to troubleshoot an issue with my fridge but I don't have a multimeter. Occasionally the fridge cooling system doesn't engaged and I find it not cold; but if I strike to the front door the fridge the cooling system starts up instantly. Is this an issue with the defrost timer or something else? Perhaps the contacts are corroded?. There may be days with the fridge works fine. I'm not that technically inclined. Any thoughts?

[@DreamLand20]

This video was very helpful. Thanks for sharing and of course I'm going to share to my coworker:)

[@user-cv4nv4zf4y]

Great video! If there's no reading between 1 & 3 making the timer bad, does that mean that the compressor will never turn on, even when the timer gets manually put into the cooling mode? I do have continuity between 1 & 4 and 2 & 4.

[@steveb9487]

The compressor and heater are mechanical switches that are changed by rotating the shaft. If the timer motor doesn't work, the shaft doesn't rotate and the switches stay where they are, whichever one is engaged is what you'll get. I've been rotating mine manually a couple times a day for a while now to trigger the defrost cycle and then go back to cooling. Just be sure to move it out of defrost after 20 min or you won't get the cool cycle!

[@CaptainSteve777]

Great video. A different YT video (that was also very good) said all the same except 1 and 3 were reversed. 1 was power and 3 was common. Now I wonder which is correct. Not that it matters! lol Per the wiring diagram, I think the other video is correct. I think 1 is power and 3 is common. Cheers!

[@steveb9487]

1 is power

[@desmondbernard3108]

Very informative and educational

[@JumpermanTech]

Thank you! Glad you found this video informative & helpful. Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️

[@pavlosdamoulakis4234]

good detailed explanation....i liked it....easy to understand....good work

[@fs28792]

studying for my hvac so its a good truobleshooting video

[@vikimiki3908]

Thanks your vdo solved my Timer issue.

[@spelunkerd]

I would have thought that something as mechanical and bulky as a timer would now be solid state, built into a board somewhere. Are these still being produced in new units? I suppose they'll still be around for a while.

[@livingstones1196]

Nowadays, they have defrost boards which go by the name Adaptive Defrost Control or ADC. They have a greater failure rate than the mechanical Timers.

[@tabithafranklin8750]

Thank you! Helped so much!

[@JumpermanTech]

You're very welcome & thank you! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️

[@driesmyburgh9950]

Does the Samsung SR-L709EV have such a timer motor unit? If so where is it placed?

[@izzybell11]

Anther great tutorial. Interesting and helpful video.

[@JumpermanTech]

Thank you very much! Glad you found this video interesting & helpful. Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡

[@gregie9999hotair1]

Between 1 and 3 is the tell tale whether it works or not, can you install an LED to show unit is working and have LED bulb exposed to see outside of timer housing? Of course that would be seen if timer was in front top of cabinet. No way to know if the timer is working other than pulling out and putting meter on the control spades.

[@gregie9999hotair1]

For that matter, when defrost is on a red LED would be nice, and blue for cooling, is this a stretch?

[@wasimedoo7994]

Very good information bro nice video keep it up God bless

[@JumpermanTech]

Thank you! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️

[@DadWil]

Thanks so much now I know what to do with my bad timer .... disconnect #3 so the timer does not advance out of cooling mode... then to defrost I need to manually advance the timer to the defrost, wait 20 minutes, and then advance it to cool again.... or find a new timer at a reasonable price and replace the bad one....

[@LawMtetwa]

JUs wana ask were is the black wire from defroster timer goes

[@NeeNoo515]

0:37 You explained everything but not the 1/2 HP, what does it means? i'm just here for it and you didn't tell us... cuz some got 1/2 HP and some 1/3 HP...

[@Floridamarty]

Thanks. Great video and explanation. My WR9X489 timer shares #3 with either #2 or #4 as cycle dictates, not #1, as in your video. Is #1 always neutral regardless? Is #3 always hot? Is #2 always heat? Is #4 always compressor? Regardless?

[@bsb770]

very nicely and patiently done, thanks!!

[@philipgbullas]

thanks for very calm explanation, new subs here...☺️

[@JumpermanTech]

You're very welcome & thank you! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️

[@shine-cg9uf]

👍💪🇺🇸❄️ ? About supco universal electronic defrost timer. Looks like the one in video but it’s not mechanical. I’m getting ol between 1 n 3 . Is that because it’s not mechanical? I do have continuity between 2n 4. This was on all 3 timers . Ur thoughts?

[@Faisalkhan-bt3nw]

Good information ℹ️ video

[@JumpermanTech]

Thank you! Appreciate the feedback. Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️

[@kirkwilson7169]

Blessings and guidance thanks for your information it is a blessing.

[@samihaddad4401]

Thank you. Greatly appreciated.

[@musakavalci9470]

So clear. Credit to you. 👍🏼 From London

[@JumpermanTech]

Thank you! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️

[@Raven4122]

Great video I just ordered frost timer HOPE this fixes it, I get OL 3-1 you said its bad i got that correct i hope $42 for new one

[@keovongvilaykeo4799]

Great content thanks for sharing 😊

[@rustyelwood7812]

Great video! I do have one question. If I have 120v and everything is running via manually turning the dial, everything run, but not cool? Testing between 1 & 2, and 1&4 work. But no continuity between 1&3.

[@officerkrupke4966]

Cheap meter, you get what you pay for. try the same test with a fluke.

[@fpigunk]

Thank you. I found this helpful.

[@JumpermanTech]

Youre very welcome! Glad you found this video helpful! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️

[@warthhoh]

I have a question I replaced both the defrost timer and the freezer thermostat it works sometimes but then it stop defrost could the heater be bad?

[@lawrenceanderson6167]

At 2:33 min into the video, you said between term 1 and 3 you should always have power, constantly. Don't you mean you should have power when the thermostat is closed requiring the compressor to be running? The timer should only be running when the thermostat is requesting cold. Then when it goes into defrost, the timer shuts the compressor off and heater on but the clock still runs because the thermostat is still sending power to the timer but the timer is cutting it off from the compressor.

[@mostlikelywedoitservices6926]

I missed something. Where is the motor that turns the gear?

[@ambrizfer7898]

What defrost timer is in a lg fridge? Specially the model lsx22423s

[@wasimedoo7994]

What model meter you used

[@JumpermanTech]

Fluke 902 FC. Thanks for watching & stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️

[@HB-yq8gy]

JMT is the cream of the crop!

[@JumpermanTech]

Haha thank you! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️

[@witjuti]

Great tutorial . Thank you

[@joaquinsandoval5152]

Great video, great explanation, in what equipment do we find this type of defrost control?

[@goodmorning713]

Refrigerator

[@two-four-five_trioxin124]

I was replacing my defrost timer and I decided to test the new part before installation. I watched this video while doing the tests. Using your two methods, testing across prong #1 and prong #3, the brand new just out of package defrost timer, tested as defective. When I tested for resistance, it came back as 'OL.' Then I tested for capacitance the same way you did but the meter never left zero. I read my meter's instruction booklet for about 30 minutes making sure my meter was working properly and set up right. As a futile attempt, I installed the new defrost timer as a final test before returning the part. It worked!? I could immediately hear the motor running and the ticking of the gears advancing. As a test, I waited two hours to make sure the mechanism was spinning/advancing, and it was. I wonder why a brand-new working defrost timer failed the test. I’m tempted to pull the timer out and retest it. I theorize that since the part never has electricity flowing through it, whatever acts as a capacitor, had no charge and thus, the multimeter could not test the part.

[@mswaffer]

I just tested mine and it had no continuity across pins 1 and 3. I manually switched it to defrost and reinstalled it as I don't have a new one and am trying to limp along. I set a timer for 30 minutes (which is the defrost time on this one) and just before the timer expired, the fridge kicked on. So apparently the timer is working.

[@officerkrupke4966]

@@mswaffer Better test for the motor would be to make a mark where he inserted screwdriver and come back in a couple hours and see if timer moved.

[@aaronreid1183atyahoocom]

Read my comment I tried to comment on yours and didn’t do it for some reason I didn’t feel like typing it all over but check out my comment in comments

[@mikestevenson1819]

Resistor plus coil is why it is higher

[@JumpermanTech]

Makes sense! Thank you 👍 Appreciate the feedback & thanks for watching. Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡

[@meljones6384]

Actually, power comes in one pin 1. Neutral is on pin 4 and the return for the timer motor, also makes a good point for reference when making voltage checks.

[@InfoDav]

Yes, this is how it's displayed on the service manual of my fridge, you are correct.

[@officerkrupke4966]

That wont work. Pin 4 is the hot to the refrigeration circuit. Pin 3 is the return for the timer motor back to the neutral wire. The author should have included the wiring diagram to fully understand how it works in circuit.

[@steveb9487]

On this timer, if power was pin 1 and neutral was pin 4, you'd have a direct short on the 8 hour cycle. Hopefully a breaker would trip right away before you started a fire!

[@kennethlobo4420]

Great explanation.

[@JumpermanTech]

Thank you brother! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️

[@p.b.7861]

Best explanation on KZbin so far ! Question: if I want bypass the 20 minutes defrost time ( to run and use minimum watts from power bank during power outage) then I should rotate the screw timer till click sound ?

[@officerkrupke4966]

no, you should cut the wire coming from the number two terminal and wire nut both ends.. When box temp. cannot be maintained, reconnect the wire. defrost heater uses 500 watts as opposed to cooling which uses about 150 watts. I would get bigger generator and keep my hands off unit.

[@steveb9487]

Rotate it until you hear a click sound and then continue to rotate it a very short way until you hear the second click to bypass that 20 min defrost period (the defrost is the short distance btwn clicks). Then you'll have another 8 hours of cool. Each single rotation of the timer is one full cool/defrost cycle. Hard to tell by the video, but the part of the shaft the inner leaf blade (#4) rides on expands as you rotate it, keeping it in contact with the middle leaf (#1). When you hit the defrost portion, there is a large step down in the shaft that makes the sprung cooling leaf (#4) jump in, pulling the outer leaf (#2) into contact with the center power leaf (#1) - they are connected by a plastic piece so they move together and can never touch the center leaf at the same time. When the center leaf hits that drop, it goes back into contact with the cooling leaf until the shaft rotates all the way around again. Long explanation, but it just means that yes, you absolutely can jump the time ahead even if it's a perfectly good functioning timer, and you'll get another X hours until the next defrost (where X is the default on the timer).

[@osbro1523]

Liked it, thumb up it, subscribed and saved it. Thanks man

[@de_pin5835]

Excellent tutorial!!!!!!