I 3D Printed YEEZY SLIDES

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In today's video I attempt to 3D Print Adidas YEEZY Slides. The Adidas YZY Slide is one of the most popular shoes on the market and is one of my favorites! Check out the full video where I 3D print YEEZY Slides!
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Seth Fowler
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#SethFowler #3dprinting #YEEZY

[@BuildBreakBuilds]

I've been 3D printing for about 8 years now, and one thing you may want to try is changing the infill patter, which could affect the squishiness and feel under foot.

[@SethFowler]

Great call! I’ll try that!

[@brziperiod]

@@SethFowler iirc gyroid is what a lot of people use

[@trqnton4640]

i wanna start 3d printing but i do not wanna spend over like 300-400$ for a good printer, what should i buy?

[@ghstface]

@@SethFowler cant wait for the next video

[@HappyChingling]

@@SethFowler Instead of printing an entire slide maybe you could print multiple soles with different infill patterns? Just a thought.

[@forgotrafe]

As others have probably said… 1) change infill at different parts of the model (easy in PrusaSlicer), 2) use a bigger nozzle like a .6 or .8mm and 3) 0.15mm layer height is tiny, am sure you’d get good-enough results with 0.3 on a 0.6mm nozzle will print in fraction of the time

[@mathevideos9909]

THIS!!!!!

[@sauhsu]

wait, this series of 3D printing is amazing. even if none of the DIY projects matched an authentic pair it's super fun, educational and interesting. thank you for getting into this, seth! 👍🏽

[@moji3812]

Yeah

[@btran3224]

Your cr 10 printer will inherently be stringy when trying to print flexible filaments. This is due to it being a bowden style extruder instead of a direct drive extruder on the prusa. You should try using progressive infill so there is more infill at the sole and less infill on the top where the infill does not matter. The infill pattern you should use is the gyroid pattern.

[@InspGadgt]

Stringiness isn't normally solved by supports. They are typically due to retraction and priming settings. Additionally travel speed has a significant impact on this as well.

[@alanbarnett328]

Thank you so much for continuing to be the only person to fill this niche for me. I hope you keep it up! I'd love a video series on you designing your own slide, and adjusting parameters and things to make them actually viable.

[@vincefiore]

seth, for some better results on the cr-10, upgrade your extruder to direct drive which helps print flexibles way better

[@Sweesh.]

I’ve been loving these 3d printing shoe videos

[@b1lawal]

Samee

[@Boomerangsalesman]

Ikr

[@juliusagen]

same

[@Gabrielisrad]

SETH!! Instead of printing out full slides with different infills, maybe try printing a bunch of small cubes with different infill types for you to test out, then once you find one you like you can print a full shoe with it. That way you can save time and money!! I’m loving the project and hope you somehow help change the shoe game with these, the possibilities are endless!! 🙌🤙

[@sublimationman]

With your Prusa Slicer, you can have different infill amounts at different layers, so you can make the bottom high infill and then low infill once it's past the base.

[@mach16j]

I'm glad you're still doing this. You should try printing out some flat slabs that you can stand on so you can test different types of infills and densities. That should save you some print time since it's a simple shape and will use less material

[@matthewleal3343]

the two tone is mad fire. I like that maybach comparison

[@thejsgarage]

I think F80 rubber resin on an SLA printer could get you pretty close. I haven't gotten too deep with TPU on FDM machines but that F80 resin has been killer for rubbery type of projects

[@matoxi123]

i dont know if this is possible, but in 11:16 you metioned the "pocket of air squeezing", maybe there is a way to post process tpu filament prints to fuse the gap between layers, maybe this would make shoes more stiff and create feeling like 'walking on air' ? i know that people are using ipa fumes/acetone to smooth the petg prints. Really enjoy the shoes printing series, keep grinding 👍🏽

[@Boomerangsalesman]

These 3d printing vids sure are great

[@Velocity_AU]

Suggestion, With Prusa you can use certain modifications to make a 3d model slice with one type of infill, and then another part of the model slice with another type of infill. Id suggest looking into that, so you could say make the heel area thicker in infill (and id say look into using gyroid infill because it might have better cusioning) and have the front area have less infill. Same with layer thickness, you can make the bottom layers have thicker walls while leaving the upper layers with thinner walls. Theres a lot of options for you to use instead of one infill prints all. Edit: Other suggestion, theres printer profiles in the Prusa Slicer for creality printers, take a look at them since Prusa slicer is a better slicer then the creality one.

[@CaliMeatWagon]

I would suggest changing your infill pattern to "Cuboid". It offers strength in all directions. I also would experiment with increasing your wall count. One thing you can do is just print out the soles. It will take less time and you can experiment with different settings and nail the right stiffness.

[@shannonduckmanton243]

Glow in the dark fillament will degrade your nozzle super fast. If your prints start to suck get a hardened steel nozzle, you'll be able to print abrasive glow in the dark fillament

[@tonyarandasanchez4162]

Maybe change not just the infill but the number of walls too, if you put a high number of walls with a low infill it may be soft in the middle and not crush under the weight on the sides, I don't know if I explained it correctly but I think it would have a good result

[@robertnewman4854]

One recommendation I have would be to move to "gyroid" infill. I find that it prints quickly, and is far more regular in terms of structure ta cubic infill... at about 15% it would probably be great here.

[@ALEXGAYMAR2312]

I would suggest using the softiest material to do insoles for shoes and then printing the shoe out of any other material

[@vanilla12gorilla]

About the infill situation if your using cura to splice your prints you should change the infill type instead of more infill. I believe the default is cubic but I recommend using gyroid it’s more structure do you won’t need more infill

[@kenopyowo]

3:37 pro tip: dont use the creality slicer. it sucks and is based on an some older version of cura. Just use the lastest version of cura and the built in profiles for the printer or even prusaslicer and it should have built in profiles for a bunch of creality printers.

[@jerome1lm]

You can print in foam. There are filaments that foam when you print them.

[@insertnamehere9017]

I love these 3d printing videos too keep it up!

[@pooounderscoreman]

BambuLab X1 will print these at least twice as fast, especially if you consider changing the nozzle diameter. If you are using 0.4mm, consider 0.6 or 0.8 for a drastic speed-up. 0.8mm would be close to twice as fast, especially if you up your layer height to .3-.4

[@davepark9247]

Can't wait to see you try the foam runner next

[@dylanfernandez4830]

3D printed Jordan 1 or 4 next? 👀😂

[@tyshawnbrooks8975]

Wait till they see this it's gonna be a lawsuit😂

[@DommoDommo]

Probably a weird suggestion but maybe make a block with a cut out of the yeezy slide (A mold) and try filling it with expanding foam to see if you can create an actual foam version!

[@chester82gtstang]

you can lightly heat the stringing with a torch / heat gun to remove them!

[@freedoomed]

creality slicer is a really old version of Cura. you will have much better results if you update to the latest version of Cura or just slice in prusa slicer for your creality printer.

[@SuperSuperSpork]

You can fix stringyness with retraction But I wouldn't actually do that because you're using flexible filament, what I would do is print them without support, and then use a lighter to burn off the strings

[@freshcup850]

you should make some regular slides that look good and feel good out of the ninja flex filiment

[@dukequack6209]

Double or triple the wall width. And maybe just increase the infill to 20-30% should be a good fit.

[@cosmo9882]

Very cool, try a larger nozzle and a thicker filament, I may speed things up a little. And there is free software you can use for slicing that allows you to place different infill amounts in different places of the build. 🤞

[@hellothere6627]

From my own shoes I made I found 13% infill with 4 print lines for the outer wall for 130lbs works great for daily use using poly maker TPU When wearing for cross country running, and intense tug a war the outer wall layers split or were too flexible. This was solved by welding the tears closed and welding to make the sides thicker. The sole will not squish out air when properly re-sealed The redesign of the shoes will have thicker walls in all the non flex spots Print time is 4days

[@ratheonhudson3311]

I like the two tone Maybach themed slide. Also, I'd use elliptical infill and put it to 7%

[@OCDRex11]

I commented on your first 3D video where YT pulled me in based on algorithm's. Well they stuck cause I have now watched all the 3D printed videos. You are quickly getting into the world of 3D printing. Infill is a beast when you really learn what all is available and can be done. Neat to see you work your way through the iterations. Still haven't subbed but getting there, lol.

[@Scout339th]

Try that last ninjaflex sized slide and up the infill by about 15-25% and use Gyroid infill patern instead of what you are using now, has a much ebtter spread for pressure. You were so close to success but you gave up D:

[@andrewtinker7537]

Use your scan in an editor like meshmixer, and subtract it from a block to make a negative space. Then you can chop that into pieces to make mold halves. Get some two-part rubber or silicone and cast these, and you can get the firmness and flexibility all in one.

[@AntonBagin]

Btw just a small thing I would not recommend using the creality slicer even tho you are using a creality printer. It's outdated. What I would rather recommend you use is whatever you are using for your Prusa. (Not sure if you are using Cura or Prusa slicer) but both of them have profiles for your printer from what I know and they should make your experience much better with basically everything. Also they are better at slicing because they both have better algorythms under the hood.

[@DKFX1]

Creality slicer is an older forked version of Cura. Though I agree he should switch to the real Cura preferably 5.0 or newer.

[@coolmani]

This is pure comedy...to have waited so many days and hours only for these to collapse is brutally hilarious LMAO great content good sir!!!!

[@chester82gtstang]

In your slicer you should select the sole of the shoe and change the infill to be a little more dense, then for the top have thin it out for softness.

[@tivednagol9127]

Try printing in two parts. Make the part supporting your food solid, then everything else with the flex.

[@ethanholmes5677]

What about printing sideways? Less support material would be needed.

[@3DProjectsRC]

i think you should make the retraction speed higher to stop the stringing

[@Nick-Scott]

This is cool, could you use a more sturdy material for the infill and then the softer material for the remainder of the slide?

[@Hamzta]

The fact that this guy is legit printing wearable shoes and making bids about them is dope.

[@adamahlquist]

You need to mess with changing the infill throughout the print. Probably need >50% for the sole of the shoe and then set it low for the insole and foot cover. You could try upgrading the ender printer with a direct drive extruder so it can print faster too.

[@RedM4fia]

I love your vids, I've Been Watching Both of The $20 Sneaker Collection Series And It Seems Like Such A Fun Thing To Do.

[@jackhemsworth7515]

Should try the ninjaflex shoe in like, 40% infill, then you'll have the squashy material that doesn't immediately collapse.

[@zdog90210]

I would recommend an idex printer to use dissolvable filament for support. The IDEX printer optimally use dual direct drive extruders. Something like the Soval IDEX printer.

[@zdog90210]

Soval SV04 IDEX printer would be my recommendation. You will need to calibrate it some what but using flexible and a dissolvable filament would make support removal super clean.

[@zdog90210]

Also gyroid infill as well will give you the best squish feel

[@BenKDesigns]

So are you actually going to make a follow up video where you tune the shoes to be comfortable? That might be interesting.

[@YungToneySnow]

The two tone actually looks great 🔥🔥🔥

[@fananh11]

Adidas: We are watching you really close Seth, really close👀👀👀

[@Tim0Tim0]

You should drop that support density like CRAZY, and use support trees in Cura, or use Meshmixer to Analyze Overhangs and generate supports using their tool, then import to your final slicer and finish the slicing there for your final .gcode. Also use support blockers if needed. And something tells me....you should try gyroid infill instead of grid or lines.... 👍

[@mamba.koberip]

you can use a lighter to remove stringing

[@yeztelx4499]

is it possible to use both machines for one slide? layer by layer? have the stronger base/ stiffer base for the soul but then mid print use the ninja flex where your foot sits and the upper half of the slide, we need a part 2

[@joshtsui3337]

another thing might be to make molds from the 3d printed objects then casting them with foam. Plus printing in TPU is way easier than PLA

[@Michael194]

I do recommend printing in a boxed environment with a vent shaft attached due to toxic chemicals released in the air from heating the filaments. As far as the first print goes, with a dremel and fine sandpaper you can shape up the details nicely.

[@DoYouSeeBananaManTH]

He used tpu which doesn’t use toxic chemicals, but abs does😊

[@RAMONGARCIA-vo2bp]

experiment by standing up model like 40 - 60 degrees then print it

[@Javierm0n0]

for the strings taking a lighter to them can help remove it real quick, just - you know, don't hold the lighter next to the material too long cuz duh.

[@PachezZ]

the sole thickness difference is probably because scanned shoe was smaller size - they dont just scale them in all axes when making bigger shoe sizes... You can play with scaling and lower Z percentage...

[@peterlee0714]

We need a part 2 to this!!

[@shamtastixx5540]

does it have to be done in a single print. use the glow in the dark foam to make the tread. and the 2nd one to make the top and a 5mm sole and then just plastic glue them together?

[@Creality3D]

It was really cool to see these wonderful videos! Great concept, can't wait to see you create more interesting shoes with 3D printer! 😀😀😀

[@firelord-gaming8475]

Tip if you have stringing use a lighter to get rid of them

[@Tired42069]

we need a video of you perfecting the 3d printed yeezy slide!

[@8mitsu_biteki]

A year later, but what if we just use PLA to silicone cast a mold to fill with foam clay? It seems infilling the sole you either compromise on softness or rigidity

[@CoasterHorizons]

idk how well it will work, but foam filament would probably work better

[@dropkickedmurphy6463]

you should use a triangular infill if you can.

[@trollplau2546]

You could try to stop in the middle of the print and add some foam to fill it idk

[@kofithompson2274]

The 2 tone joins go crazy

[@zwiemon]

I'd like to see these with different infill types like gyroid

[@mab4110]

3D scan your foot so you can measure the size of the slide to fit the scan.

[@decachu517]

Do that I love 3-D printing is just the best thing ever you can literally three different toys for your kids or if you’re a kid you can do different your own toys

[@sarpcool5047]

You can use a lighter to remove the stringiness

[@skimson069]

Bro literally printed that shit off

[@brothermarcus_]

Try Taulman’s PCTPE. It’s more rigid than Ninjaflex but still flexible.

[@TheOvenReheated]

you physically hurt me when you didnt use gyroid for the shoe gyroid is a 3d infill, and can be compressed evenly on all 3 axis, unlike grid pattern also gyroid minimizes the nozzle hitting infill, which a cool little addon

[@SneakersNYeah]

i dont know anything about 3d printing but I think perhaps it may become wearable if you pump a little bit of air into the ninjaflex one

[@123sdfe]

bro really said say Mibock 💀

[@theartoffartyouyaka]

im watching this while wearing yeez slides that are the same exact color

[@Crumblacrumbs]

Have no idea who you are but I love watching this content.

[@RayLopezBTownSting]

why do you print at such slow velocity? Just from looking, you could probably at least double both of these printers speeds without any noticeable drop in quality by just having it move faster. I think most creality printers are rated to go 150-200mm/s. I imagine the prusa ones go just as fast.

[@csselement]

The last shoe you did had too little infill. Are we learning here?

[@jzubs]

might get me back into printing

[@fadded2955]

Bro has his own factory

[@alamadrid97]

don´t use creality slicer...use the prusa slicer for de cr-10 too

[@ffgcffg9647]

You should sand them down lightly so they turn more smooth

[@Busta_DaKid]

This is dope

[@riosol8950]

I think if you print more shoes you should use a gyroid infill pattern

[@dimonds_4841]

You should 3d print the foam runnners

[@StuffyAk79]

I think you need to mess with retraction speeds to help lessen stringing

[@StuffyAk79]

Also idk if it works wit flexable filament but blasting it with a heat gun helps get rid of stringing just need to be careful not to overheat so it does warp the shoe/part

[@StuffyAk79]

Also last tip mess with you infill pattern helps save on time a lot certain ones will uses less infill compared to others maybe you should try different infill patterns see if that helps with comfort and could help cut on your print times too I use gyroid infill pattern for cosplay parts and it usually takes off like a half or a whole day of printing for like cosplay helmets and stuff.

[@Snowcruizer]

Is the flex filament why you have to have layer speed so slow, that was god awfully long prints, but awesome video!

[@crudeFLORL]

What socks are you wearing? Love the green color!

[@chester82gtstang]

Are you using a hardened nozzle for the GITD filament? If its Brass the GITD materiel will slowly reem out the brass nozzle and lower print quality and could cause additional stringing.

[@soopacoopatroopa]

Infill is the key component here

[@And1__]

The two tone look 🔥🔥🔥ye needs to do that on V2 slides