I Can't Believe I Just Bought This Neck...

Japanese? 1980s? Scalloped? YES to all three!
Well, it's time to try something new, and see what scalloped fret-boards are all about!
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[@Dudldom]

The red guitar hanging on the wall to the other guitars: "I have seen things you wouldn't believe..."

[@fallingpetunias9046]

"Rose wood scalloped off a neck of a Stratocaster. I watched belt sanders glitter in the dark near the workshop door..."

[@josetrevino9107]

2Edyl Bazor

[@clay2252]

Darrell says "zed" I'm like "oh yeah he's Canadian"

[@electroKrunch]

They do the same in South Africa, hehehehe

[@musicbyclay4919]

Zeeee

[@jltrem]

Hang around long enough and you'll hear the "aboot".

[@duppy666.]

Maybe realise Americans pronounce everything wrong.

[@jltrem]

@@duppy666. Not necessarily wrong,...but regional.

[@SuperEdge67]

I don’t like scallops on my fretboard.....I prefer prawns.

[@1980bwc]

I like scalloped potatoes.

[@Gynra]

Don't be so shellfish!

[@alfiemoran6684]

I prefer anchovies, keeps it well oiled

[@haiqalhaziq9735]

@@alfiemoran6684 mine was whale

[@SSPfirehawk]

The scalloped fret bord looks ood

[@undertakerrick]

I play a Malmsteen Strat. I got it off Reverb 3 years ago for $1600. I play it live all the time. Almost every gig someone will approach me asking about the guitar and asking to hold it. So many guitarists know of the scalloped necks but never get a chance to try it and only I am crazy enough to drop that much on a guitar that might not feel right. That is what 30 day return policies are for though. It turns out I love it. I have 17 guitars. The first year I played only that guitar. When I went to playing the others again....I realized how much playing the scalloped neck improved my playing. It naturally lightened my touch. It improved my feel in a huge way and it lived up to the reputation and improved speed because having lighter hands is a key to playing those speed runs faster and this guitar got me to alter my technique without me even knowing and it transferred to when I pick up a regular guitar. Amazing and highly recommended. If you never played one....just wait until you play your first bends. It feels so friggin' amazing.

[@jescocom1]

I've got one too and your absolutely right about lightening your touch. Also, it is so much easier bending notes.

[@pvtlehto]

Cool

[@theexpressionbooth]

Lol same here man. Once I pluednonw I had to learn how to scallop my own. I scalloped all of mine. Even my strandbergs and a kiesel Vader. Love it though.

[@ricklewis5804]

The Expression Booth Love my Kiesels, have 5 of them. Great bargains, sold directly from the manufacturer to the end user without the 100% retailer markup plus each one is custom made to your own specs from the headstock to the bottom of the body and everything in between.

[@jayartz8562]

Been playing my Malmsteen for over 25 years, it's awesome, non scalloped guitars feel like hard work.

[@adrianopescuma2674]

Hello, Adriano from Brazil! I had a Japanese neck like yours with a bunch of holes and the solution I found was to fill them and then paint the headstock with the same color of the body, resulting in a matching headstock guitar which is very cool!!!

[@RC32Smiths01]

Now that has to be simply one of the more vintage and well designed Fretboards I've seen! I'm all up for Scalloped without a doubt! Can't wait to see what magic you do with it man!

[@DarrellBraunGuitar]

Should I use this neck on a Malmsteen/Blackmore Strat build, or would you guys like to see something else?

[@Omariscrafting]

That Malmsteen build would be an amazingly entertaining video to watch.

[@shawndouglass2939]

@@Omariscrafting I agree, do a build 😆

[@re4477]

Cringeworthy Name definitely should do a Malmsteen build 👍

[@Superjet113]

That would be bad ass for sure! I concur! :)

[@thetattedpharmacist3215]

Malmsteen build would be sick!

[@declan993]

Those metal screws are likely from broken string trees. I've broken one before by tightening the strings too much and it leaves screws identical to those. The fact that he/she drilled another string tree hole right next to one of them is indicative of a broken string tree incident.

[@JB_II]

As someone who also has built and repaired custom guitars for years. This neck is not only going to look great on a relic looking strat body, (I’m thinking ‘aged’ white paint and tarnished hardware) but that neck is gonna be a nightmare down the road. To remove the broken string tree screws (yes as one comment pointed out they are from the original string trees) use a metal drill bit slightly larger than the screw and then fill in with wood filler. Secondly be VERY careful,with those loose frets, not much wood holding them in and if the rosewood is dried out you’ll end up splitting the wood and causing another whole set of problems. But of course I’m probably telling you things you already know. Good luck with the build and can’t wait to see what you do.

[@SiggySauer123]

Luthier here also. Can't agree more regarding the frets. Unless you've mastered mastered the finesse required for a fretting hammer, I would strongly suggest investing in some sort of a press. Stew Mac makes a whole kit which is great if you'll be doing fret work frequently but hard to justify the cost if you'd only be using it for a handful of builds. Thankfully they do sell just the Fret Press Caul which you can use in most any type of arbor press and just buy the appropriate insert for the radius neck you're working on. Always cheaper to do it right than to have to do it a second time. Also, remember wood expands and contracts- Take advantage of it!

[@lueysixty-six7300]

Joe Bilboa I was thinking it was strange they scalloped a rosewood; rockhard maple would surely be a better choice, for this reason exactly ( the wood holding onto the frets better)....aswell as the maple being a better wood to carve even, consistent concaves between each fret. But what do I know?!

[@dylanzrim1011]

If you’re doing a relic just leave the holes open?

[@dylanzrim1011]

Luey Sixty-six I think the main concern is that maple dust is much less toxic than rosewood dust. Ebony is worse again. Plus the era when scalloped fretboard were made popular was when maple necks were the budget option.

[@dylanzrim1011]

Today if it weren’t for the manufactured shortage of rosewood it (rosewood) would be the cheapest of the cheap

[@khoiplaysguitar]

This is the least Darrell guitar I've seen 😂

[@electroKrunch]

Firm padding on the back of the the neck & light tapping with a small soft headed (rubber) upholstery hammer may get the fret wire to lay down. If not, maybe clamping a soft pine block, shaped if necessary, on top of the wire. From my limited experience, they weren't installed correctly or the cut is too loose to hold the nub on the fret wire. Adhesive (super glue) may be required if that's the case, I think. Maybe hit up Will Galvin (YT or Patreon) as he's got all kinds of tricks up his sleeve that are affordable...

[@joelangrehr6184]

You are for sure my favorite guitarist KZbinr. Your always honest when you're reviewing other guitars and you are very entertaining

[@pcbullets8726]

I have a 1991 MIJ strat with a scalloped Warmoth neck and I love it! It took like a month of getting use to not pressing hard on the strings. I think it's great for practicing, maybe making my playing more precise. I say, yeah! Make an 80's shred machine out of this with a Dimazio hot rail in the bridge spot and the Yngwie signature pickup in the neck spot. Great video Darrell!

[@xxIONBOMBxx]

Those are toning pins. Cover them if you dont like the look. A master smith made this guitar. Toning pins kill wirey sound that is caused in hardness of said fingerboard. When you take an origional stock at specific hardness of wood it causes a witey hum sound when you play or change it like thinning mads such as scalloping it. Again, this was scalloped by a professional. Those pins cause specific deadenening of accoustic sound specifically the buzz sound causef with strings. Its cutting by evening the weakening of said neck with its specific top layer fretboard scalloping You have a beautifully scalloped fretboard and I would guard it with my life. To have a perfectally toned and scalloped fretboard is beyond priceless man. Nobody pins the wood anymore, and that is a piece of professional musician gold.

[@xxIONBOMBxx]

Again, pinning a fretboard has almost musical science mixed with tension on wood warpage to creat almost perfect pitches. Its like balancing tires, but with mild pins in perfect location only old instrument makers did. You have gold, a linear and perfectly pinned fretboard that was also scalloped for said pinning. I would give you 10 thousand follars for that fretboard anybday. It is perfectly crafted by a real old time nekmaker with real skill. That was fretted and scalloped better than yngwie malmasteens best guitar hes wver owned, and make with more finesse it's unexplainable at this point. Youve got a toned by pin, and scalloped fender origional based neck. Thats worth its weight in gold easy

[@ziggylayneable]

Steve Vai is playing guitars with fully scalloped neck all 24 frets. I watch the video the other day and he was playing oneand it was undeniably completely scalloped because I have an eye for it knowing as I played one for 20 years (and I continue to)

[@VicClay]

All these comments about tapping in the frets that are not seated are correct but they leave out the most important part. Before you do it, you have to use fretboard oil like Nomad's or any other and get it all over the area of the unseated frets. I would do the whole neck with it anyway. It also works almost as a cleaner so the gunk you mentioned is easier to remove by wiping. You do it to lubricate the slot so the fret goes in easier and to moisturize the rosewood and make it softer around the slot to make cracking and breaking off much less likely to happen when you are tapping the fret in. If time is not a factor, I would put the neck in a guitar case with a guitar humidifier like one does for acoustics for a day or two also before working on it.

[@MrStevecro]

I picked up a neck a few years ago with the intention of scalloping it. It was a great exercise - but you need to play chords so carefully. Any excess force and it all plays (unevenly) sharp. It became a lead only guitar, such was the precision needed when reaching fingers on a particularly challenging chord. I love that Blackmore idea of scalloping only for the 3 high strings and leaving the others alone for power chords

[@kennyh5083]

Try using heavy strings! could help until you get used to it.

[@kjemradio]

Bass phenom Billy Sheehan scalloped the upper rage of his signature Yamaha's. Back in the day (early 80s while with Talas) he said he did the work himself, but it was never that precise like now. I think he wrecked some neck in the process. For him, it gave greater access for note bending while he soloed. These were Fender P basses he did this on.

[@FuriousMess]

jst built a parts Strat with a roasted maple 22 fret scalloped neck I got off Amazon. I was shocked when the neck arrived at how good it is. Bone nut, jumbo frets installed, abalone fretboard dots, very good fret install and highly polished. I am really pleased with the results it's different than any other guitar I have. Scalloping is a good way to break my ham fisted playing style lol. It has a GFS ash body, Fender 2 pt trem and Clapton mid boost I routed the body for, Hipshot open gear locking tuners and Bill Lawrence Wilde L280S N/M and L290S B. The neck really makes it something special, the scallops are very deep and wide. It's very cool.

[@flekkzo]

Malmsteen has a crazy touch. Thin high strings (8 for the e) and thick for the low. And tuned down one half step. Can’t be easy to play spaghettini like that on a scalloped fretboard.

[@niomosy]

My first guitar is scalloped from the 10th-22nd frets. Playing on 8s wasn't really ever a problem.

[@ihazthots]

For sure man. A super mod would be rad. Do it. Excited to see where this goes. Also, learned about scalloping frets from you today. Interesting stuff.

[@miyolinux]

Oh dear...I'm losing it. I watched this on my phone. While you were pivoting the neck to show how some of the frets weren't flat...I actually pivoted my phone to try and get a better angle. ...like that was actually going to work. LOL! 😵 😒 😁 💪

[@joshhoover1202]

I've done that before.

[@geespar1]

You’re not a bass player by any chance are you? 😄

[@joshhoover1202]

@@geespar1 no, but sometimes I wonder if that was my true calling in life though.

[@miyolinux]

@@geespar1 LOL! I have been known to "slap the bass"... 😁 😜 💪

[@miyolinux]

@@jonathansinger3818 💪 👊 😁

[@xjunkxyrdxdog89]

I scalloped an epiphone sg neck, by hand, with sandpaper. Took ages, but was absolutely worth it.

[@BrianAuer]

Absolutely love my scalloped fretboard

[@thehound2161]

This is the neck on my 1985-86 MIJ Fender Contemporary Stratocaster with System One tremelo. It has the serial number etched on the back of the neck plate only, and is an A series serial number. Mine is maple and it does say "made in Japan" under the "Stratocaster" decal section. There is no serial number decal however, and this is short run. The back of the neck is also blank. The "Made in Japan" has been scraped off from under the "Stratocaster" decal. The locking nut was removed and several holes have been drilled for string tree's, and you are also correct that the frets were replaced. Nicely done.

[@barryengle12666]

I used to own a G&L with a scalloped fretboard from about 1985, I can't play them very efficiently. As I was learning to play back then the few things I was getting some skill playing were tested pretty hard trying to accommodate the scalloped fretboard. wasn't for me at all. I certainly applaud those who can play a scalloped neck, it's a different beast

[@J__C__]

I don't even play guitar and I've probably watched 6 or 8 hours of content in the last 36 hours. Nice job. Really amazing stuff!

[@NilkkiNikke]

Never too late start my man

[@denniswalsh8476]

Sheared off screws. Happened to with a e-Bay cheap roller tree (once). The screw was incredibly weak metal and sheared off, even with what I thought was an adequate diameter pilot hole. Unfortunately.... it was impossible to remove without even more damage. Fortunately, it was hide-able by installing the roller tree over it with a second hole and another screw. Behind the nut string lockers are available. I have used Kahler. Couple of things, they're pretty wide and flat bottomed, so the don't fit well in the curved relief of a strat style neck. I took mine apart and used a belt sander to grind a radius across the bottom of it get it to sit a bit better in that position. Clearcoated the ground area. Also the bottom side of the string pass through area is dead flat for 1/4 to 5-16". This puts two destinctive kinks in each string. Filed off the sharp corners and rounded the string paths somewhat.... clearcoated there too. It works fine. Just major fooling around to get it to fit better and treat the strings more gently. And.... it completely blocks access to the truss rod adjustment. So.... "good luck with that".

[@beestrongbc]

The First person I saw playing a Scallop fingerboard was John Mc Laughlin.

[@markgowans]

He did it before both Malmsteen & Blackmore! I remember reading an interview Richie did about watching John McLaughlin in the Rainbow bar & grill in the late 60's or early 70's and being fascinated by Johns Scalloped neck and then he started using them not long after.

[@wolffalterman]

Thanks for mentioning JM- couldn't believe he didn't get a shout out~

[@emck7225]

He said "I hope you have a 'neck' cellent day."

[@dipoput]

"I like guitar necks that are scalloped , so you can grab the note by the balls" - You know who.

[@wimpauwels7839]

The gaps below the frets are often caused by dry-shrinkage of the fingerboard -rosewood Oiling it makes the woodfibers expand again, do it as often as needed till the gaps are smaller or even disapear completely. A little tap with a small nylon hammer can do the rest. The metal studs are probably older broken- of cheap string trees, in various probably badly judged positions. I own a 1988 SquierStrat made in Japan, with Original FloydRose (Fender logo), the very same locking nut and originaly mounted Gotoh tuners, plain maple neck without the stripe-rosewood board with the very same slim c-shape, bought it brandnew in 1989! Love your channel, a fan from the beginning, greetz from Ghent-Flanders-Belgium!

[@julianalcock8658]

To remove the broken screws get or borrow some hinge drills. They are drill bits with sprung loaded guide covers. This prevents the drill wandering if you make a suitable template and clamp it to the headstock. I.e. a piece of wood with the hinge drill guide diameter hole in it located over the broken screw. I've done this on tuner screws that snapped. Worked great.

[@onlyfromadistance7326]

I've been wanting to try a scalloped neck for years. Eventually I'll get on from Warmoth to put on one of my Strats...

[@looniethemoonie5353]

You can buy them on Ebay too. They're Chinese necks but they're usually pretty decent quality, however they might need a bit of fitment work as the heel can be a little too wide. But if you dont mind waiting a month or so they're a pretty good alternative plus, they only cost about $55-$85 (depending on options.)

[@tolissofianos899]

what i like the most to your videos, is you, speaking.....i am from Greece and i can understant every single word you say despite you speak fast...i really enjoy your videos.....keep on the good job......

[@isaacwilliams9919]

I like the Steve Vai style of scalloping only over 12th fret

[@byronofcalgary6985]

there's a bare body from a 80's Fender Japan Contemporary Strat for sale on Kijiji Calgary - orig paint - kinda lavender mauve - no rear cover plate - some kinda top loader trem - doesn't seem to be for a Kahler as I have mine apart and it's different

[@mdaniels3383]

I'm so glad I watched this whole thing to discover that the neck wasn't going to be displayed in use. Come on!

[@alexacosta2140]

I have a 1990 MIJ Yngwie Malmsteen signature series strat with some pretty modern custom shop pickups in it. Hands down funnest and best guitar to play

[@peterwelsh1932]

Yes, do this project!!!! I have a scalloped Strat Neck Maple neck with (sort-of) Surf Green Headstock. Been needing to make a full Scalloped Strat but can't decide which way to go. I could use parts laying around (strat copies, old 80s Squirt Strat II), or grab a Bullet for $79, or Squirt Surf Green with lipstick pickups, or grab a real Fender Body, or grab the Eric Johnson loaded body. I have collected a few parts so far: 2 Danelectro Lipstick Pickups, Fernandez Sustainer (I could rip it out of a Fernandez) and a Kahler Flyer Tremolo. Adrian Belew used this Tremolo in the 80s on Fenders (on the cover of Twang Bar King). Like a Floyd but top-mounted. Smoother and less cheasey. Also thinking about a Brass But and Lockeding Tuners. Or this set of Grovers I have laying around. So the dilemma: spend money, spend a fortune, or build it from parts laying around. Stick it on another finished guitar ( minus the neck) or go from scratch? Any ideas welcome/ dying to play this neck THX/PLZ-P

[@peterwelsh1932]

Or like, order an Ear Slick or Harley Benton whatever, throw the neck on there and call it a day. Or get a Squier Vintage Modified Surf Stratocaster of Reverb and then I'd have an extra neck to throw on this other Strat body in the closet here...

[@islander4986]

Looking at the way the fretboard wood alongside the fret ends is torn-out, I'd agree that this board has been re-fretted. I have a suspicion that the new frets went on this board after the scallops were cut. This might explain the open gaps under the edges of the frets-It looks like the peaks of the scalloped board where the new wider frets are seated don't have a flat top as wide as these frets, so the edges of the frets are floating off the board. I've scalloped two new Fender necks with good frets in them. It's not easy to carve out the valleys in a fretted board without marring the frets unless you leave a small ledge on the sides of the fret. At least not for me. Unlike the "professional" who supposedly did this job, I was careful to make the valleys in the scallops just deep enough that I didn't expose the side dots on the bass side. The side dots are placed at slightly different depths on my various Fender style guitars. When the guitars are built I suppose that the dark side dots on maple necks can be placed further below the fretboard surface than the white dots in a rosewood board which can't be drilled too close to the maple. It's possible to carve a deeper valley on the treble side (no dots), but be careful if you do, the pair of position dots at the twelfth fret on the face of the fretboard also limit the depth of the valley you make on the treble side of that fret.

[@ryann5247]

use a caul and a drill press to seat the frets. make the caul from a block that is the correct radius, put a bolt in the back of it, chuck it in the drill press and use the press to push down the frets with the drill press off

[@DeanSibleyAntiques]

Greetings form downunder, about 12 yrs ago I bought an all black 80s MiJ Strat for $200 at a pawn shop - just before they were all connected to inet. Came with Gotoh tuners(work really well), 2 dual roller string trees, maple neck, 2 Lace Sensor pups, 1 plain pup. Just awesome - best value for money around. 1st mod replace 5 way switch with made in USA switch(- recommended for all cheap Fenders). After retiring I decided to rewire(incl. pots & switch) it as the LS pups were lifeless - what a huge difference to sound! Added gold trem for a little bling. Ser C 003811. Very happy. I am on my 4th guitar build & using jumbo stainless frets for 1st time - a couple of which have that tiny gap - not encountered previously. I hammered frets on 1st build but don't recommend it as if you should kink the fret it needs to be replaced with new one. SMs drill press cauls are excellent - shaped to correct radius. I heated the gapped frets with clothes iron & put a HUGE amount of force on the frets but they did not budge. Fret slots should be deep enough as I use SMs fret slotting jig(recommended) & Aus maple binding - allows slots to be deeper than tang. Could only conclude that either bottom of fret wire was not consistently flat(manufacturing defect) or perhaps the tang was not at 90deg. to fret wire. Note - even with gap the frets were level - which had me baffled. My advice would be "leave well enough alone" . Looking forward to seeing whatever you make with this & hearing some more of your wonderful playing. Stay happy(as always), Kiwi.

[@Necromanos]

Kahler locking clamp (not a locking nut) via Stew Mac or Amazon, $35 ish US.

[@Aceroxx02]

The broken screws are from string trees. Someone tried putting the high e and B string tree in those areas, to test break angle over the nut, and in the process, over tightened them causing the small screw used to snap off. I made the same mistake in the past, it happens. Especially if the screws were cheap ones and the maple isn't particularly soft.

[@Xpyburnt_ndz]

Build it and they will come! 🤣😎 I'd love to have that neck!!! Gr8 find Darrell!

[@Shakura8]

About the fret press.. you can use a wodden hammer and put a small fabric on the fret and just hit the fret until It'll tuck in.

[@papiXchuko]

Finally !!!! I have 3 strat with that neck and I prefer it

[@danm1319]

I have a Mexican made deluxe series powerhouse strat. It's the weird one with the "boost" with the 9v battery built into the nobs. I got a neck built by warmth with a half scallop on the 12th fret up . Also added jumbo frets with stainless with a more defined like "Gibson" pyramid fret shape . Whenever I have got work or had it set up the people who work there/techs love it 😀 it is a crazy feel

[@gingerbeer914]

I think the two sheared off screw belonged to another pair of non-original string trees. Originally this neck did NOT need or have any string trees AT ALL: it had a nut lock that kept all of the strings down. (Same as on the Strat Plus with the Wilkinson nut: NO string trees). Ge first two string tree hole were drilled wrongly precisely under the strings, which is a few mm off, because string trees work NEXT TO their screw. So the former owner didn't fully think it through before he started drilling. Removing the screw remains is really difficult. It is easier to drill them a little deeper with an 1.5mm cobalt drill at low rpm and put some liquid wood over them.

[@giovannicarvelli3667]

Hi Darrel, I have a Japanese strat of that era: the original locking nut is definitely horrible and had to modify it in many ways but than I ended up installing staggered sperzel tuners with no strings trees and heavier strings. I've also swapped the kahler bridge with a wilkinson. Enjoy your work on the baby!

[@StuntcatTV]

I think you should do that Oldschool-Mod, would be a missed opportunity to open a time travel window and get a feel of the old days if you didn't. Thanks for teaching us new stuff again and wish you all the best for your project!

[@markham4041]

I pulled the frets off my 1972 Les Paul Custom when I wore them out. All the "pros" in my area laughed their asses off, then freaked out at how cool it was and sounded? I had some kind of hot DiMarzio's in it. Got it refretted after fooling around about 6 months.

[@charleshuguley9903]

I believe those two sheared off screws are the result of broken screws during an attempt to mount string trees. The holes were drilled too small and friction broke the screws. I 've done this myself.

[@zigzagrz]

I bought a 80s fender MIJ neck a few months back, mine didn't have the headstock "fender" logo or the original tuners (it has schallers) but was able to determine it was from the stamped markings at the bottom of the neck. It had a soft V shape that was great and the fret ends were great with rounded fretboard. One of the best necks I played. I sold it with a guitar I pieced together. Current owner loves it.

[@laughingdaffodils5450]

Mid 80s, made in Japan, and scalloped. Nice. Makes sense you'd refret it when you scallop it, even if the vintage frets weren't already worn out which they likely were. As to the sheared off screws I can't beat Scott Watson's explanation, I've seen that once or twice, a kind of poor mans b-bender. To repair it will be a pain but maybe not as much work as you think. Get your power drill, get a really tiny bit that's made for steel not wood, and drill it out. Once cored the rest of it comes out pretty easy. Reseating that last fret seems like a really bad idea. The fret overhang there is really fragile. I wouldn't touch it unless it was actually noticeable playing. I'd like to see a neck like this mounted on something very non-strat like actually. Maybe a nice string-through hardtail tele with reversed control plate and 5-way mod. Warmoth claims a strat heel will fit and intonate fine in a tele pocket, and I see cheap tele bodies with strat style pockets for sale now and then as well. So that might be the easiest thing to do. But I'd really like to see something even crazier. Like maybe stick it on a Z shape body with a couple of pafs or gold-foils and a tuneomatic. One way or another, it's just begging to become part of a hardtail blues beater in my mind. No disrespect at all to Malmsteen and Vai, but they already did that, I'd try to do something different. Anyhow, thanks for the video, looking forward to the next!

[@johnbrady1211]

Get a piece of automotive brake line about an inch long. Or a piece of one of those old collapsible car antennas. Make sure it's small enough to fit over the broken screws tightly. You kind of want it to grab the screw. Use a dremel to cut it. Then use the dremel cutoff tool to make one end into a type of mini hole saw with teeth. Put it in your drill and put the drill in reverse. As you drill down over the screw, in reverse, it will sometimes unscrew from the wood. If not, drill about as much as you can until you can grab it with a needle nose pliers. Then dress the hole with the smallest drill that matches your home made mini hole saw. Glue a hardwood dowel into the hole. Shave it level with a safety razor or very sharp chisel and try to match it up to the headstock.

[@trevorgwelch7412]

Malmsteen loves his scalloped neck Strats !!!! But he is one weird genius guitarist . I had a Malmsteen Stratocaster from the Custom Shop

[@moisttowlette123]

It was probably an installation of a first string tree, possibly gone wrong or knocked off by a ding, then they tried installing 2 farther down, then decided to go one tree, installed another one, it was either a roller and a pin sheared off, or another one had been installed, then another tree with the hole as close as possible to the original was installed.

[@kilhattrick]

Reseat the fret...small metal block(zippo lighter size), small hammer, and place metal block on the fret, and tap it down slowly and start at one side. Just for that last fret, I would put a block of wood under the overhang as to not hammer your 22 fret off. Gentle and easy.

[@jamesmilton8765]

If you are able to pinpunch the screws dead center you could just drill away the top part and fill. Removal looks doubtful, which is why they were left in. Dave simply puts a cloth over the frets and bangs them in with a mallet when they are loose.

[@deadshot4245]

Little tip from a guy thats done his own scallop jobs use the blackmore graduated scallop design its far superior if you still want the 1st to 15th frets on the e a d to feel close to normal but the bottom half to have the extra ability to it. to me that should be the gold standard for it instead of the yngwie design both are great yes but one is more accessible than the other one until you develop soft touch

[@th3drizzl378]

i have a mid 80's Japan made heavy metal strat which was hss setup. one guitar ill never sell.

[@TheGuitarPit]

I bought a similar neck when I was a kid. Mine was from an American strat, but it had been mangled with a locking nut and had a C- scallop job on it. The upside was it was only $25. I put it on a Squier body and it was actually pretty fun. Never got totally comfortable on it but hey, something fun and new for that kinda money is hard to beat. Looking forward to whatever you come up with :)

[@thanasios1000]

Dear Darrel, sorry that i will be out of the theme, but it's my only chance to tell you that you do amazing job, you got wonderful and balance personality, always positive. I don't use to make compliment s, but I followed your videos and i got to tell you a very big thank you, you re just amazing..

[@justleavemealone]

Reeeeee-verb. Reeeeee-verb. It hurts us, precious.

[@rangerdoc1029]

I kinda like Ruhvurb

[@jameslewis2635]

To me this neck looks like it had the jumbo frets done after the scalloping work was done. Essentially, I think it had either standard Fender frets or some other skinny fret type at the time when the scalloping was done. As such, the jumbo frets overhang where the scalloping was done as they seem to have been added despite being a poor choice for the neck in its current state. The broken screws in the headstock look like they would need to be drilled out. There are a few suggestions I could give for making this neck better. First would be to drill out the screws and fill them. One thing that (depending on the colour of the body you chose) could make it look very good is to simply paint the headstock on the front surface to match the body. Yes, you could just fill the holes but they would always be visible unless covered up in some form with something like paint or a laminate of some type unless you are planning to mount some hardware on the headstock that would cover them up in any case. Secondly, you could refret the neck. A set of lighter guage stainless steel fretwire would be a much better choice for this neck than the jumbo frets it has currently, especially at the top end where the gaps between the frets narrow as that is where you can really see the jumbo frets overhang quite badly (at least on the video). This is an expensive option but if you were to do this it could be done with few tools. I you look up a lot of luthier channels you can see the frets being installed with a small mallet, a set of cutters and the appropriate files with a fair bit of masking tape involved. One channel that I know has covered this is Crimson Guitars. I would suggest that this neck would make most sense attached to a superstrat kind of design. Either a HSH, HH or possibly even a HSS configuration would suit, although I would say it needs a humbucker in there to make any sense. This would also be an excellent point to experiment with single coil sized humbuckers like the Seymour Duncan Hotrails which were an 80's design and would be an easy upgrade from a regular single coil based strat body. Where it comes to the trem, you could just go full Floyd on it to make it like the original Fender design it came out of the factory with but that may become an annoyance where a more regular 2 point or similar trem could make more sense. While I have a guitar with a Floyd trem, it is terrible in terms of flexibility in that I have to reach for another guitar for different tunings. You could even go hard-tail but I would put this down to personal preferences as many people just block their trems anyway (at which point I just think they should have bought a hard-tail model).

[@rezakhan8290]

Speed kills. Go Darrell

[@Ben9Massacre]

To reseat the frets you can radius a scrap piece of wood to the fret directly next to the high fret. then use a C clamp to press them back in evenly. Obviously a second piece of scrap wood on the back side of the neck is always a good idea to prevent scratching and denting.

[@jackb249]

For pressing in the frets. You may want to consider 2 c-clamps with rubber pads. One on high side, 1 on low, alternating high side / low side during the pressing process.

[@andrewharper1609]

I think Steve Vai has scalloping from the 17th fret. The full Malmsteen treatment (he was trained as a luthier so he mods his own guitars) involves machining his own brass nuts, the scalloping and he created his own stacked humbuckers with diMarzio because he likes the loudness of humbuckers but the sound of single coils. One of his signature models was a nylon strung Strat with a piezo bridge I think he used it on his Concerto album. His favourite is called the Duck. Either or would make an interesting replica attempt. If you wanted to create something totally different with it perhaps putting it on a custom built archtop body with a sustainer as the pickup would be interesting. Otherwise being conventional you could just try putting it on a Strat body to give it a go.

[@cirava]

Vai did do scalloped frets on the last 4 frets on the Jem.

[@guilhermearoeira8900]

Juninho Afram does an amazing job playing with his signature scaloped Tagima guitar. Look for it!

[@Necromanos]

I played a scalloped fingerboard once and I was like no no no no no no no lol.

[@guyfromnj]

You should try to get a maybach Lester on the channel to compare against the Eastman. They are similar in price and both are supposed to be amazing. I'm looking to buy my forever singlecut and I'm torn between Eastman and Maybach.

[@rowlandstraylight]

It's also not unheard of to re-radius the fretboard during a refret, particularly if scalloping anyway

[@rayschoch5882]

Interesting choice and analysis. I have an '86 Squier, purchased new, and your notes about the thinness of the neck seem pretty accurate. It has the thinnest neck of any of my guitars. I confess I'm intimidated by a scalloped fretboard, just as I would be by a fretless board. Interesting experiment, but I wouldn't want it to be on my regular guitar. Better players, though, obviously feel differently.

[@rowlandstraylight]

Check frets for level with a fret rocker, if they are level don't reseat. If they're not level, then a brass hammer will reseat. But you'll likely need superglue to get them to stay put and then a fret level moving frets always messes with the level.

[@stkbkr1]

I am not sure what I have "Gunken Myself into." Rock on!!!

[@nasher931]

I think those sheared screws on the headstock are just where the original string tees were. Looks to me like the original screw on the tee further along the headstock sheared, so he tried to move it further down, only for it to shear again, so he puts the final tee on just next to it. The other hole would've just been where the second string tee would've been

[@fusion-music]

Yes. I noticed the frets raised straight away. I've read the suggestions & I think a fret hammer may be worth trying, but I reckon it won't work. You'll need to glue and clamp I would think. That means you need the same radius as the fretboard, and the same radius as the back of the neck. Superglue will do the job, but you may need a slower one. One fret at a time. Mark the frets that need glueing. Chris at Highline guitars has a video on it. A radius block may do the job if you have the correct one. Looks like you only need pressure on the ends of the frets. I scalloped the fretboard on a Hofner Jazz guitar in the 70s and wished I never had. So, I'm now replacing the fretboard and binding. I think you'll be pleased to have at least 9ne guitar like that though.

[@leekro1]

Scalloped is the natural wear of a high mileage instrument. The first Rickenbacker I owned was naturally scalloped in the two most played valleys... I miss that guitar.

[@Ryan_F.]

Love the parts videos! Will be interested to see how this turns out

[@guymanuel4260]

Definitely want more look into unique pieces like these. Good work Dan!

[@colonelangus3826]

I love the 80’s style super Strat build idea! Maybe even a DIY 80’s paint job would be awesome to see. Your build videos are the best on KZbin.

[@vanhalen5150]

Nice neck with some swiss-cheese vibes to it. Easy fix tho. Send the neck to Dave ("Daves world of fun stuff" here on YT) I'm sure you know who he is. He can take care of all problems with this neck including the frets which do need some adjustment. And we will have the pleasure watching him do it as a bonus. The broken screw tells me someone tried to either add another string tree or just moved the existing one but didnt drill the hole deep enough resulting in screw snaps off. Very common but also an easy fix. The 2 holes nearest nut, my guess is it one time had an string retainer Ibanez style. Dont turn this project into another Malsteen/Blackmore guitar, we've seen it before.

[@ajpeagle]

The neck is an 86 FugiGen the nut is the Schaller built (Schecter Trem lock also) system 1.Gotoh SGE tuners OEM for Fender . It has some nasty work done, really bad refret and holes for three different string retainers .Hope it was cheap .

[@matthewcombs9059]

I've used a piece of pine wood and rubber mallet to hammer down frets. The pine is soft enough it wont hurt the frets.

[@justindacosta3d]

For the frets, i would just try really light with a rubber mallet and a spare wood block so you are not directly hitting the fret. Should be gentle enough to get those pressed back in.

[@gw2031]

If the frets are level i would live with unseated ones,i suspect the slots weren't cut deep enough at the refret,,,,you can run in some thin superglue and force some rosewood dust (i always save this when I sand fingerboards down ) in before it goes off ,then sand and tidy up,works really well ,,,look forward to hear you play it,,,love your playing !.

[@KB-kc7ou]

Looks close to the neck from mine. It's a 1985 MIJ Strat with the System I trem. My neck is also labeled ST-562, same tuners, and I still have the locking nut on mine. Odd thing is the label - mine is very similar, but it has the serial number under the Fendor logo, and also says Made In Japan under the 'Stratocaster" sticker.

[@georgebentley-ricardo9445]

Fascinating video and very informative 😃🎸 very enjoyable Darrel. Thanks for sharing and keep up the great work 😃🎸

[@ArtAlienTV]

I would stick it on an old squire body that is naturally a light relic. I have 2 mid 80's Japan Strats and the necks are superb to play. I would fill the holes with maple coloured wood filler and forget the locking nut. Otherwise just get one that would match the holes as much as possible. I find small pieces of wooden cocktail stick and a bit of wood glue is great for filling small holes. Then a little wood filler to top it off. I built one similar a while back and put 3 single coil sized humbuckers on it with 3 separate coil split switches. That was real hard so coil split tone knobs would be easier. 😊👍

[@donnyhall2535]

The Japanese strat I had, had jumbo frets also. Those may be original. I can't say for sure. But it's a possibility. Then again, mine could have had a refret. It was used so I can't be absolute about it.

[@dylanzrim1011]

Ibanez used to use a similar locking nut back when they had the roadstar series 2 going

[@Hiro.the.God.]

I looked up vintage Japanese Fenders and they had 2 string trees, and some had a circle string tree further up. So it seems that someone took the original trees off then added the circle trees then sheered them off.

[@markgowans]

Ritchie blackmore was one of the first guitarists in the rock arena to use shaller tuners and his guitar neck actually has Graduated Scalloped Rosewood Fingerboard & a "U" Shape with just 21 frets so maybe you could put those tuners on and take away that last fret!

[@marc-antoinejean6428]

The refret job was savagely done )O: MIJ neck profiles are the nicest ever made by Fender since pre-cbs guitars

[@AnkerPeet]

Hey Darrell, rather than removing those metal pins, try grinding them down a little bit and then put wood filler on top. That would probably be easier than pulling them out.

[@richardmorris7188]

As long as the top of the frets are leveled and the fret is solid, I do not think you will have a problem. It is probably where however scalloped the fretboard just dug it out too much.