I Hang Boarded BEFORE My Sessions For 21 Days

For the past 21 days I've been doing an experiment with my hang boarding. Instead of going through my climbing session, followed by some training, what if I maxed out my training first? Although I was scared that pre-session training would inevitably be a hinderance to my climbing success, I was pleasantly surprised with the results I found over the last 3 weeks! Thanks for watching!!
#climbing #rockclimbing #training #utah #bouldering #workout
00:00 Intro
00:46 Hang Board Process
01:28 Day 1
04:10 Day 4
06:16 Day 12
07:55 Day 21
09:15 Consensus
10:27 Outro

[@Mylada]

Just keep at it for years. I just climbed first 3 years, but then hit a plateau around V6/7A. Now I have been hangboarding or lifting with a no hang device before all sessions for 2 years. My 20 mm 5 sec hang has improved from +20kg to +55 kg and still going up.

[@zackpalmerclimbing]

Thank you for the encouragement! I love hearing people's progression, 55kg is genuinely insane haha. Do you ever feel like you are overdoing it by training every session?

[@griffinray6584]

its impressive how many shots you are able to get with no other climbers in it! Keep up the good work

[@zackpalmerclimbing]

I do my best to go at the least busy times of the day haha. Thanks for the comment!

[@PIXEL7atm]

3 days off in 17 days of climbing is crazy, especially with so much hangboarding and limit bouldering, i'm impressed by how well you're handling the volume but this is definitely not sustainable - more is not always better. I'd recommend massively reducing your volume, you don't need to hangboard more than 2x a week as a beginner and you definitely don't need to climb more than 2 days in a row, 1 day on 2 days off would be far more benficial unless you're really mindful about your volume and intensity (most beginners aren't). Pairing max hangs with limit bouldering that many days in a row will inevitably result in injury. Your tendons/ligaments won't be getting bigger/stronger in that time frame, you're just improving your recruitment which doesn't reduce chance of injury it just allows you to pull harder / handle bigger loads. Also hangboarding before a climbing session is definitely the way to go, doing it after a session or when you're fatigued is very dangerous, the chance of injury is high. Check out Dr Tyler Nelson's recent talk with the nugget climbing podcast, it's a super valuable source of info regarding training and how those adaptations work!

[@zackpalmerclimbing]

Thank you for the comment as well as the advice! I haven't really considered how much I am climbing to be honest, but I think I definitely need to figure out what an ideal schedule is for maximum intensity without overdoing it. With how much I love climbing I don't know if I could take that many days off but you may be correct about the injury, hopefully I don't have to learn the hard way. I'll make sure to listen to that podcast.

[@PIXEL7atm]

@@zackpalmerclimbing I learned the hard way, many times lol. Training and climbing is just too addictive especially when you're just getting in to it and getting a load of nooby gains. Good luck man!

[@zackpalmerclimbing]

Well said. Thanks, good luck to you as well!

[@average-team-kid]

Unrelated but I think it's important for accountability, Tyler Nelson isn't really a doctor, he claims the term but his degree doesn't qualify.

[@gingobingo1567]

I climb 2 days a week and I found that weighted hangboarding once of those days and bodyweight hangs the other made me recover and get stronger every week. Now I add 1 kg every week to my weighted hangs. I started at 8 kg and now im at 17 kg feeling great.

[@zackpalmerclimbing]

That sounds like a really solid plan, and going up a whole kilogram every week is honestly pretty crazy. I'll definitely do a weighted hang boarding video soon.

[@gingobingo1567]

@@zackpalmerclimbing Looking forward to it 👌💪

[@shanemason89]

v1 climber. hangboarded for the first time today. way harder than i thought! but useful. my arms were getting pumped from v1s so i figured it wouldnt hurt to work on my grip

[@zackpalmerclimbing]

That's awesome to hear! I felt the same way the first time I hang boarded but you are correct throwing in a little bit here and there should help you improve a ton.

[@dabaka7719]

cool cool

[@zackpalmerclimbing]

Thanks!

[@aaronchang8326]

Just wanted to say you're a great climber and your videos are sick, but I was wondering why you don't climb on board angles steeper than ~30 degrees?

[@zackpalmerclimbing]

Thank you I appreciate that! That is a great question and the answer is honestly it's just hard haha. I appreciate you calling that out cause I really need to get better at incline climbs, I think it would be really good for my overall progression.

[@aaronchang8326]

​@@zackpalmerclimbing ur progression is rly impressive! I climb around the same level as you and come from a similar weightlifting background. I'm the opposite though in that I really like board climbing at like 40-50 degrees instead of less since then the moves feel more my style, but I should work on both as well.

[@zackpalmerclimbing]

Thank you that means a lot 🙏 Love to hear there are other climber weightlifters out there. Super interesting that you prefer those climbs I genuinely avoid caves and inclined board climbs at all costs haha. I'd love to hear how it goes climbing more vertical walls and I'll start working on some more overhung climbs fs!

[@aaronchang8326]

@@zackpalmerclimbing thanks man, best of luck to you too and keep up the good work!

[@Jackwithoneeye]

Fair enough doing some warmup recruitment hangs before a session . Doing a full hang board session before each climbing session just seems super dumb to me and goes against most advice. Honestly you will see better gains if you crank down that kilter angle and get on the moonboard.

[@PIXEL7atm]

What is 'most advice'?

[@zackpalmerclimbing]

I appreciate the comment, but I would definitely consider trying this out for a week or two to see how it feels. I noticed significant improvements doing it before as opposed to after my sessions.

[@theodionne9370]

Unless you’ve tried it, it’s more or less impossible to know if it works for you or not! I used to be a hater, but I gave it a try a few months back and I now feel I’ve been wasting time doing my strength training at the end of my climbing sessions.

[@zackpalmerclimbing]

Well said, I was scared it would negatively impact my climbing performance but I'm so glad I gave it a try