I'm Building A Voron (and so should you!)

[@RedFoxSquirrel]

Not being able to or not wanting to print ABS is a problem that Voron Design does have a solution for and that is the PIF (Print It Forward) program. Voron parts printed to exacting high quality Voron Specs by vetted members of the Voron Community on Voron Printers and at a price that is near cost+ship. There are also those that sell printed parts but are not part of the PIF program, they will cost more, but many are of similar quality to those vetted for PIF.

[@haulngrassracing]

Next time try putting a 100w light bulb (incandescent) inside the encloser to help keep the temps up.

[@LostInTech3D]

not a bad idea, if I had any left! Might have a hunt around. I've still got stuff to print and it's getting colder!

[@haulngrassracing]

@@LostInTech3D I think the low here just before Christmas is going to be -1….. Fahrenheit

[@TheButchersbLock]

That is such a great idea they give off heaps of heat

[@philip_fletcher]

Used to share with students who used varoius wattage bulbs to help beer/wine fermentation... Apparently quite a safe, gentle form of heat.

[@Ruckusmatter]

@@LostInTech3D a large alum heatsink and a old ender heater with a fan blowing over it works well. the air circulations the most important part

[@HoffmanTactical]

Now I'm going have to do a Voron ;) Good video. It's an interesting thing when you have to pick a filament for this application. Because you need no creep and a higher HDT. PC and ABS / ASA become the only two common options. I've seen some people say that PC is too brittle, which it can be, but I wonder how a PC blend such as the Polymaker Polymax PC would do. An annealed Nylon might work, but creep is still a concern.

[@cdsmakestuff]

Just keep an eye on parts printed with ABS+ labeled filament. It does have a few drawbacks when compared to "pure" ABS. Like lower glass transition temp, mechanical creep and layer bonding problems. All of which are directly related to the "easier to print" formula of ABS+. I understand your decision and need for it’s use, just fyi.

[@fwiffo]

A ton of people in the Voron PIF program use eSun ABS+, so at least in the case of eSun, it's an officially approved material.

[@antallaczko8793]

NERO took apart one of his old printers a week ago, it's 3 years old, he had no issues with esun parts. It's all about printing and enclosure temperature.

[@faokie]

I haven't tried printing with ABS yet, but I've found that the draft shield setting in both Cura and Prusaslicer does wonders when printing "warpy" parts. One particularly troublesome print, no matter what I tried (anti-warp tabs, glue stick, brim, higher bed temp), by the time it was done printing the corners would lift off the bed. But when I tried it with draft shield, it came out ruler straight without even needing any of the other stuff.

[@dtibor5903]

I print ABS on simple plain glass, no glue, no hairspray, no slurry. Bed at 105C and 130% print width for the first layer. I's impossible to remove the print until is cooled below about 50C.

[@dtibor5903]

Other layers are 98-100C

[@dtibor5903]

Fan is off if layer time is above 30seconds

[@williamgreen3316]

@@dtibor5903 Do you use an enclosure?

[@garrettparmenter938]

Just ordered a Sovol SV06 yesterday. Ill likely go through this exact process in a couple of years. Been eyeballing a printer for years but dont want to make trinkets and waste. Finally have a handful of things i want to do that can be enabled with 3-D printing. Also looking at PET recycling into filament. Useing my own waste stream for enginerding.

[@LostInTech3D]

Pet recycling is on my list, you know about the recreator3d, right?

[@thenextlayer]

You’re gonna enjoy it a lot. I am pretty much done and WOW it’s amazing and I had so much fun. 😊

[@Christopher_Gibbons]

Printing abs or asa in a different room is a decent temporary solution, but really you want to take the time to set up proper ventilation. A duct taking air from your enclosure outside with a fan will work, but a good filter setup would be better. Or if you have one, you can stick your printer inside an airbrushing booth.

[@mr_voron]

Welcome and hope you enjoy your journey. Good luck and Merry Christmas 🎄

[@LostInTech3D]

Thank you 👍

[@PTEC3D]

Hehehehe I actually shivered when I saw your temperature graphs. Here I have the opposite problem(s) of heat and humidity. And dust, I have three problems. Heat, humidity, dust, and a need - four. Four problems. Heat, humidity, dust, and a need to ventilate fumes away because I'm sensitive to them. Originally I let the enclosure vent outside with a simple thermosiphon process, let some air in near the bottom, fit the hose near the top, put the outlet up even higher, but then summer came and I was getting filament clogs with weird melty patterns that were unlike anything I'd seen to that time. Touching the direct drive extruder motor almost sizzled. Tunrs out that when you have outside air temps in the room of 37C - 41C, the bit of heat from the printer quickly takes that up to 60C... So then I fitted a server cooling fan into the hose and force-extract when the temperature gets too high. Oh and with daily RH of 75% - 90% being common here, even PLA prints better for being in a dehydrating chamber, and that sits under the printer and some heat from the electric dehumidifier inside it must also make it up into the enclosure. Sovol sounds like a dream machine, it'd be my choice for second printer if I ever go there, I watched the review you did and that basically put it on my Christmas list... Keep up the enjoyable vids and have a great festive season and a propserous new year!

[@ChristianLonneker]

Great job on printing. I've made a similar enclosure and used garbage bags and tape to get an almost closed enclosure. It really is about keeping the temperature stable/ no draft.

[@nicholas_kujawa]

I use a drill with a hex-driver and put self-tapping screws in the bottom of the legs. Once the self-tapping screws are in, you just continue to use the drill on the head of the screw to rotate the leg into the table top.

[@WhiteWulfe]

Ooh, starting with a v0. Make sure you have the newest manual, as such always helps out (doubly so since it reminds you about pre-loading nuts)

[@jacobmurray3621]

Cnc kitchen used nylon not petg. Also abs plus does print easier but has a lower heat deflection temperature. Not a big deal but for trying to print PC you would probably want ABS or ASA. ASA has slightly better heat deflection than ABS.

[@timlong7289]

Best advice ever: "be selective about established knowledge".

[@joshhardin666]

I respectfully disagree that the lack is the least expensive enclosure - Personally, I built a very large cardboard box out of several upcycled amazon boxes that i fitted around my lightly modified ender 3 (bltouch, allmetal hotend, klipper, webcam, pei build plate) for which to print my voron v2 parts on. I have a cieling fan in my lab and it was spring when I did this, so i just had the window open with a box fan in the window to get good circulation in my home lab/office. I set up most of my prints to go overnight so I could set the print and leave the room, close the door. everything worked out really well.

[@LostInTech3D]

I appreciate the respectfulness of your respectful disagreement! I had indeed forgotten about temporary enclosures. I plan to use the lacks for other things later and wanted something quite sturdy.

[@3dexperiments]

I had the same experience when printing parts for my VzBoT330, if I just eliminated drafts and used 15% or less part cooling, ABS/ASA printed just fine.

[@KennethScharf]

ABS / ASA does make fumes that are not good to inhale, IF you print at too high a temperature. If you limit yourself to 220-230C you'll get minimal outgassing, but this may not be the best temperature for good printing results. In any case, warping is a BIG problem for large parts (and by large I mean ANYTHING that might take over two hours to print). To avoid warping you need a printer enclosed in a chamber to contain a constant temperature. And if you have that, you also have a way to contain the fumes by using a low velocity exhaust fan, and a good filter. Have the exhaust fumes exit outdoors through a suitable hose. Yeah, if you have a garage that will solve the fume problem, but NOT the warping (unless your garage is at a constant warm temperature. I have printed ABS in my workshop, leaving the door and windows open. Solved the fume problem (I stayed out of the workshop while the printer was running), but I still had some issues with minor warping. So what's wrong with PETG and PLA? I've printed parts for a home brew 3D printer with both of these materials, and had no problems. PLA can be fragile, drop a PLA part onto a hard floor and it will shatter. PETG probably won't. PLA shouldn't be used near anything hot, but it seemed to work fine for many mechanical parts. PETG is almost as heat tolerant ans ABS / ASA. Also, except for printed parts around the hot end, the Prusa printers ARE made out of PETG (but Prusas are not enclosed).

[@maxhammick948]

Can googly eyes hold up to voron speeds?

[@LostInTech3D]

undoubtedly! 😂

[@lolzlarkin3059]

Stefan used cf nylon which is stiffer and has better heat resistance than abs, but suffered from heat creep. So everything keeps getting loose over time.

[@Oznz-m5c]

Aluminium works well...

[@lolzlarkin3059]

@@Oznz-m5c but much more challenging to 3d print.

[@SianaGearz]

Something like a bad batch... normally you don't expect CF Nylon to behave that way! I think PETG isn't a terrible choice at least for a start, considering compromises of open-frame printing if you have to start that way.

[@deltacx1059]

Im building a wnclosed machine with the express purpose of being able to print in the same rooms people regularly inhabit, just no other place to do it. But this thing isnt going to be "enclosed" like most machines, its actually going to be relatively well sealed with a filter fan providing a slight negative pressure so any leaks draw in fresh air rather than letting unfiltered air out.

[@message2prateek]

Sovol SV06 follow up video?

[@LostInTech3D]

I will have to do something about that 😉

[@thinkaboutwhy]

Would you happen to have the slicer profile you have ended up with for ABS? Thanks

[@LostInTech3D]

yes of course, give me a couple mins and I'll have it up on the website

[@NessieKnows]

I loved the colors, based one Evagelion? I was looking just now to use purple and green but stock from a purchase kit but really dig the colors!

[@francistaylor1822]

I have two vorons (0.1 which I am building and 2.4) I did my ABS parts printing in the shed, for smaller parts you can get away without an enclosure no worries. Though I dont get below zero temps here. 100% agree with you on people printing stuff like ABS inside their home, its madness. You can reduce but not eliminate fumes and VOC's with additional filters (look up the popular nevermore) but you still get some (I bought a VOC meter to check levels even though I print in the shed and can confirm this). The filter that a lot of people use witht the Vorons is the Nevermore / Nevermore Max.

[@gallows130]

hte link for the kit is not working anymore. Do u know where I can find that kit?

[@oldie-se]

holy ... sitting here in north Sweden where my room temp is going down to 13°C over night with outside temps around -20°C and more. I need an enclosure ... my Sovol is arriving in two days -.-

[@EGGSHL]

Next time when you want to “print a printer” you should look to @rolohaun3D’s rook. It is a fully 3d printed 3d printer. Even more so than the voron. It is not suitable for sizes larger than 300mm but it is a very fast machine and it’s 1/3 the cost of a voron at the very least. Depends how much you want to put into it! I already used my spare parts on a PETBOT so i have to buy parts for a rook build but i still plan to do it because i want a small and fast printer

[@lolzlarkin3059]

Just finishing up the wiring on my formbot v0.1 Top tips: read the entire section before putting that bit together. Look up v0 no-drop nut mod. Lining up nuts is a bit of a pain. And trying to rotate the printer to slide a nut along a bit and drop 10 other nuts out other extrusions is a pain. Double and triple check you have preloaded enough nuts before putting the frame together. Check where you are putting your electronics before vhb taping it down. Its a twat to get off. Generally it is quite enjoyable to put together. Just fiddley because everything is small.

[@LostInTech3D]

Good tips thanks 👍

[@lolzlarkin3059]

@@LostInTech3D oh and don't overtighten the screws that go into the ends of the frame. Although I think my kit had been drilled out too big and then tapped so the threads where really weak. I had to helicoil most of the frame. That was the worst bit about the formbot kit

[@keiransolaris1929]

@@LostInTech3D you need the no drop nuts for the makerbeam extrusions, do not print the ldo ones they will not fit in the fysetc kit, I just finished building that kit myself.

[@marckez4420]

What 3d Printers do you need to create another 3d printer

[@Newmeishu]

Welcome to the party 🎉. Voron s are great printers. For the parts, I would ask in the Voron discord if someone near you could print them for you. It usually should work. Or use the pif program. You will only pay a small fee but you should get good quality parts and it doesn’t take too long. For the v.0, check the kirigami bed mod. especially the ldo version. It is probably the most useful thing, as it ads stiffness to the bed. eSun Abs + is a good choice. We are printing all the parts with it and it simply works ( having a chamfer temp of 40-50deg C. helps probably)

[@SiFireHasSpeed]

I’m building a VzBot but I scaled it up to 400mm x400mm after I finish my Voron V0

[@tructruc00]

I've just finished my voron trident from fysetc and it's a beast

[@neilw2O]

My old DIY Mendelmax using ABS @100°C bed and 247°C. Minimize convection currents! Slow fan. A foot high of bubble wrap/packing envelopes to stop convection air works well. The bed stays at base level on this machine.

[@r4fken]

Iv been in some fairly cold places but man, nothing is colder than spending 35 minutes waiting for a bus in London when its -5, windy and high humidity in inadequate footwear.

[@bryanlee7295]

Bed slingers i think are major introducer of draft as the part is being slinged through the air. I run an Ender 6 and in 3 years i haven't had half as much problems as bed slingers have (not a scientific conclusion, just based on 3 years of following 3d printing social medias and forums)

[@XxBanziixX1]

I'm curios to see the strength of your ABS prints. I print my ABS and ASA in a completed closed enclosure that heats to around 40 Celsius. From my personal experience the layer adhesion strength is quite different from printing at room temperature and and printing at around 40. Might not matter for use for parts in a printer though.

[@LostInTech3D]

Yes..I do wonder myself too. Not that I have any choice right now, but I may print some test pieces now, Vs later when it's warmer....to run some tests.

[@zoltanr15]

I built my Voron V0.1 from the FYSTEC kit. I paid 500$ at the time. The linear rails are terrible quality. In the provided config for Klipper the hotend and heated bed sensors were reversed. The highest acceleration I could get my motors is 2000mm/s2 (while hot). The good news, mechanical parts are ok, all the profiles and plexiglass parts aligned well. All electronics worked out of the box. I used my SD card with firmware compiled by me, the one supplied with is suspiciosly large size for what it is. With the current price ~400$ I recommend.

[@hayden9944]

Have you seen the VzBot AWD? Build one of them too

[@Raz_Tactical]

As cool as these are and I'd love to make one, the cost to performance ratio just isn't there for your average user. I could buy multiple ender or elegoo printers for the price of the kit and filament.

[@soestercorolla]

i have 3 voron's completely build with abs+ and they are 1 , 2 ,and 2,5 year old and still printing without issues

[@GoBayside]

Was the printer pulling more current to stay at temp?

[@LostInTech3D]

I must assume so, but it was still PIDing, I could tell that much, so it had more power in reserve. Probably also took a fair bit longer to heat up.

[@dontcallmebrave]

Heck yes, literally started putting my fysetc v0 together the other day!

[@kevingallineauii9353]

Can anyone explain to me at $340 why I would buy this kit instead of a Creality Ender 3 Pro V2? Especially considering the Ender is like 95% assembled.

[@LostInTech3D]

Keep watching I guess and we'll see!

[@bj_]

Too late, already built one earlier this year :) loving it

[@hunt0583]

Would you consider building a rolohaun rook 3d printer? I’m building one right now, but I feel like other people would love to see you make one!😊

[@LostInTech3D]

I've been watching "zombie hedgehog" building his (Google him), if I ever have time I definitely would like to.

[@Jack155Q4]

Pleased to see this! I'm looking forward to building one next year. Planning on a 350mm

[@LostInTech3D]

That's next 😅

[@Altirix_]

a good enclouse could also be one of those small grow tents. 50x50x100 cm is perfect for an ender 3, i got one for about £22 on ebay. might get some looks from the neighbors tho if it comes in a marked box

[@seilgu]

I'll just buy one from Taobao if needed. But Voron is mostly used to print fast, and currently I really don't need the speed.

[@jensschroder8214]

I had already thought about putting the SV06 in a housing. Now I know I need three lack.

[@julshg]

I'm really interested in the Cheetah 2.0 board since i can't find a review about it. I'm currently thinking about buying a Formbot kit which has my beloved SKR mini V2 but officially Fystech includes a RasPi unlike the formbot. Funnily they both cost the same ($339). This Kit has a lot going for it, i actually might buy it.

[@LostInTech3D]

I haven't really looked at it yet, been too busy printing the parts, but yeah I don't know much about it either, there's a schematic, I guess I'll cover it in part 2 or 3

[@LostInTech3D]

Also my kit did not contain a pi, btw

[@elisa6121]

Hi there, I've just ordered the same kit 10 days ago and printing my parts atm. Would you be so kind and provide me with the thickness of the acrylic sheets are, so that I can print the parts for the enclosure bevor mine will arrive? greetings from Germany :)

[@LostInTech3D]

Hello! I have lost my calipers at the moment, but with a normal ruler it would appear to be 2mm, so that is what I will use anyway!

[@UnCoolDad]

We need to see some testing of input shaping on the new Marlin 2.1.2

[@LostInTech3D]

I agree!

[@UnCoolDad]

@@LostInTech3D so you are on the case then? 😀

[@LostInTech3D]

In as much as I am absolutely stacked with work but I'm hoping to squeeze it in...yes!

[@louiel8711]

ABS printing I really struggle with, could there be certain ABS that is easier than other brands? great video as always thanks.

[@eliastofthansen2050]

Use high heat on the build surface, an enclosure and if everything fails, then use "ABS juice" for adhesion on a disposable surface (ie, not your PEI sheets).

[@travistucker7317]

I'm printing abs and asa on an ender 3, all metal and such, at 260/100 in an Amazon enclosure. I have a short lamp with 100w bulb and a filament dryer. In the house typically see 35c temp and 20-25% humidity in the enclosure and get great results. Very little fan. Prints more reliability than anything else I've tried yet.

[@MiguelRodriguez2010]

Ok now you just have to make a video convincing my wife I have to do this.

[@jasenking4092]

I don’t have a YT channel yet but I would love to try a Voron kit!!

[@f1hotrod527]

Cool video. I notice that some people struggle lots printing abs and some it prints just fine. And some of the people where it prints fine are not taking precautions like heated chamber or even draft mitigations. Is there a big difference in abs filaments?

[@LostInTech3D]

I think so actually

[@hungryafrican420]

very much so. esun abs+ can be printed unenclosed given that your slicer settings are tuned correctly. "normal" abs blends ie. those without the additives like esun abs+ are pretty much impossible to print without an enclosure.

[@keiransolaris1929]

Esun ABS+ is an easier version of ABS, really good for beginners. It's low warp but I've found that it tends to be more brittle than other ABS. Fusion Filaments ABS 1.5 prints amazingly for me in my voron 2.4 and their ABS 2.0 is supposed to be a low warp variety of thst similar to ABS + without the brittle aspect. Their colors are also amazing.

[@toma.cnc1]

I have already built several Voron Legacy. Can not source linear rails here ... 🙃

[@LostInTech3D]

wow that is...irritating.

[@DouglasFish]

I am excited for this.

[@EdRopple]

STOP STARTING NEW SERIES WITHOUT GIVING ME STEPPERS PART THREE

[@LostInTech3D]

A fair point well made

[@AM-jw1lo]

Having build the LDO kit, i say yes its a nice printer, but it turned into a time hole. For someone new.. Voron did a bad design on z axis adjustment. the screw needs a longer throw and to be stable. I couldn't buy a pi and did the Manta and CB1 good choice, very little help. Back to the build, i hate the system for the extruder, if you have problems with the extruder (i did) it becomes a test that you don't damage any wires, no multiply that everytime you have to do something to troubleshoot. If you want to stay with the main group, you will need a pi but there is a discord and thats a big plus.

[@LostInTech3D]

noted, and yeah I have a pi luckily!

[@morsbs0808]

You should try the LDO kit.

[@LostInTech3D]

Hehe I might 😁

[@loughfad78]

I printed mine on ender 3 (micro swiss DD) with an encloser (cardboard box works) using esun abs plus. (worked best using a brim and draft shield)

[@loughfad78]

240 & 105 degrease. Easy

[@jacobmurray3621]

Love the news page

[@amirsyafiqazmanshah9425]

Eva 01 colour scheme very nice👍🏻

[@PhilWaud]

Taking on a voron build just seems incredibly time and money consuming. Who has the time for that? Good luck, Ill enjoy the series as I do all your videos!

[@LostInTech3D]

Haha you can build one vicariously through me, it's definitely a project rather than about the printer itself.

[@TechieSewing]

6:02 and that's how you say Ikea ;)) Believe it or not, the video has ended too soon! Love the outro by the way.

[@LostInTech3D]

It's not how IKEA says IKEA 😂

[@TechieSewing]

@@LostInTech3D Maybe in Ukea ;)

[@ard1choke]

I love my voron v0 so much that I ended up tearing my ender apart and converting it to a switchwire!

[@nathan22211]

cnc kitchen used CF nylon, which would've worked as joel used it in his toasty boi, but nylon isn't easy from what I hear

[@wktodd]

Top marks for fitting in the legend joke 8⁠-⁠)

[@RoseKindred]

This was interesting. I was looking to make an enclosure for 1 printer. I like the table leg joiners you used, I would put screws through them as well as connection brackets on the third (lower) table, but I over-secure things thanks to cats. I wonder if there is enough room using the tables to place a "Fire Extinguisher Ball" in the top section in case something does happen. I mean, it creates a huge mess, but better a mess than no room/house.

[@filanfyretracker]

Blazecut tubes might be small enough to fit inside the printer enclosure

[@RoseKindred]

@@filanfyretracker Oh wow, I have never seen those before. Thank you. More costly but smaller footprint and looks like less mess than the FEB.

[@Mwwwwwwwwe]

Activated carbon filters are great at trapping VCOs and other toxins. I got a big box fan(scavenged from something???)slapped it onto a flanged 3d printed a tube with lots of small holes then wrapped the tube with porous cloth and filled tube with cheap hob extractor charcoal chunks(8 squid a kilo)...Boom! a dirt cheap vco extractor. Side note the fan needs to suck the air through the charcoal (unless you use a blower fan which will have terrible efficiency Oof printing ABS- tried it once...that ranks as high on my todo list as stinky resin printing😅

[@user-xv1vm5xc1f]

I don’t think any of us knew what a voron was before this

[@sierraecho884]

Hahahaha your Lack table enclosure is exactly what I did xD

[@81XS11]

Pro tip: print nasty stuff in the laundry room with an empty dryer running on "tumble only". They move a lot of air from inside the house to outside the house. Be a responsible neighbor and make the rest of the HOA deal with the fumes! 🤣 Well, in the US anyway. Maybe dryers work different in other regions.

[@LostInTech3D]

Good idea, same here I think although not if it's a condenser 😁

[@coinopanimator]

Using a Kallax table is a great idea

[@nevarDeathEHW]

As an American, I would love an explanation of the UK wire plug! For instance, which end goes in the wall? Why can't you just use the same thing we do in America? Does electricity work differently in the UK? Are the plugs the same in Scotland as they are in Ireland? Northern Ireland? I wish we had schools here

[@dangerous8333]

😂 Public school definitely. ✌️

[@uujims]

I literally just starting one today

[@jasontrauer]

I got one of these kits via AliExpress from Fysetc and I'm interested how you get on with the included Cheetah 2.0 main board they include. FYI, with their example klipper configuration. I needed to set the Y endstop from 120 to 0 and the y positive direction to false to keep y from homing in the wrong direction.

[@LostInTech3D]

haha noted!

[@AndrewHelgeCox]

The Rook is mostly 3D printed and also core-xy. It would fit your thumbnail headline better.

[@LostInTech3D]

Yes....I may do more builds depending on how much success I have here heh

[@baldyetichronicles]

I had to stop the video around the 3 minute mark. When I saw the size of those linear rails I figured this must be something for office workers to put on their desk. I suppose I could put one in my cup holder and print stuff while I'm sitting in traffic :)

[@LostInTech3D]

well it's not called the voron 0.1 because it's big...

[@Ruckusmatter]

Vzbot when?

[@LostInTech3D]

haha uh I think we can confidently say at least 2023

[@Ruckusmatter]

@@LostInTech3D im a patient man

[@mihi4]

I had a _REALLY_ loud laugh at alumin-i-um... thx for that!! 😀

[@iluvatarbzh5584]

if only there was a diy laser cutter with such a large community

[@LostInTech3D]

A safe one, yeah would be cool

[@tigre3droyce771]

I got 3 lacks for free over ebayKA here in germany, people buy them and a after a while they are unwanted/discarded.

[@neildarlow]

I'm pretty confident that you could use 3DTomorrow BioPro to print the plastic parts for a Voron. It's a modified PLA with better temperature resistance. The only downsides are 1) You can have it in any colour as long as it's off-white and 2) The price - at £35 for 1Kg it's definitely a premium filament.

[@LostInTech3D]

Thats an interesting idea...I have a sample somewhere of biopro, I have been meaning to do something on it since I met Callum back in June.

[@strmstikket5505]

Every few months somebody will show up in the Voron Discord with "fancy high something-schmomting" pla and try to print Voron parts. They very quickly learn the errors of their way. Everything from cracked gantries to hotend that fell off. In short as a Voron owner I will tell you this is a Bad(tm) idea

[@tomtom2346]

Well it's about time. Welcome to the Otherside and good luck.

[@stephenteitgenengineering]

Stefan used cf nylon

[@grn-xx]

Just 3 degrees? xD in Germany we recently had -15 degrees. Something we haven't had in a long time though to be honest

[@danieldc8841]

the quickest cheapest way to make an enclosure is to flip a cardboard box lol

[@philb2334]

I did just that & you should have heard the noise the wife made 🤣

[@TheGlitchyCorgi]

Wait, wait, wait... you can't just slip that Cold Snap news clipping in like that, you gotta let us read the whole thing. LOL

[@LostInTech3D]

Hahaha

[@TechieSewing]

Yeah, I've paused and read it all, hilarious!

[@Henry-by8en]

You can print ABS/ASA in an area you live in if you filter the air. This is the way the Voron was designed. I don't know about the v0, but the v2.4 which I built has an carbon air filter on the exhaust to deal with this. I personally also added a carbon filter inside the Voron to further filter the air, as well as a surgical mask to the exhaust filter to filter any particulates Admittedly, I printed my Voron ASA parts initially just on my desk on my ender since I figured I was only doing this once, and once won't hurt that much. I've since only printed ASA/ABS on my Voron which has a good filtration system

[@dtibor5903]

Just amazes me why people don't buy a cheap wardrobe cabinet. You just may need to add a shelf in it and boom, you can fit 3 printers inside, or 2 printers and all the spare parts

[@LostInTech3D]

different needs, I have all sorts of weird places I keep my printers, including but not limited to the floor

[@ChristianBehnke]

Opinion: You should not stop staring at cucumbers. 😄

[@literate-aside]

Love the Voron, fan of your style so I subbed, but I remain baffled as to how you can be injured by the easiest to assemble piece of furniture ever conceived.

[@LostInTech3D]

I'm guessing you're still young 😂

[@literate-aside]

@@LostInTech3D I'd wager I'm considerably older than you 😉

[@LostInTech3D]

😂 don't bet on it

[@kvernesdotten]

Just fyi you wrote allumminum wrong

[@icefireobsidian7490]

I don’t think printing in a Canadian winter non heated garage would work lol

[@LostInTech3D]

probably not, I was hitting the limits I think at -4C !

[@3Dmaking]

Regarding PETG vs ABS: You can get PETG with a grass transition temperature of 100˚C, you just need to look for it (on the internet) 😂

[@gotmilkbutt]

There are a lot more physical and mechanical differences between those two plastics.

[@3Dmaking]

If you have watched the video you will know that the author focused on the glass transition temperature and heat creep as an issue. Why should I focus on other properties of the material? From an engendering perspective ABS and PETG are in the same material group known as plastic. As an example both Prusa and RatRig use PETG for the printed parts. And it is not like that Voron will support a high temperature in the enclosure as the panes are Acrylic. 😉

[@ryanokeefe12]

The part about the ABS/ASA argument being dumb, and not printing it in the same room you're in; IS dumb if that's what you're going to argue.. especially if you're going to infer that people are dumb for disagreeing with you. There are literally studies and journaled tests that log the offgassing and air quality and list the results in parts per million (PPM) and assess that against the health impacts.. They all determine that the levels in a room with an acceptable level of ventilation won't cause any detrimental health problems. The only risk is irritation in some people with different reactions to it. You'd have to stick your head inside an enclosed printer for hours to intake the amount required to impact your health.

[@chrismorton8412]

cool i might build one