I'm SORRY - I Gave You Such BAD Advice

I'm SORRY - I Gave You Such BAD Advice
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[@saintjohncoleman8602]

I’ve always questioned the logic of trapping wild swarms while also trying to control the genetics in one’s apiary. We are so careful purchasing high quality queens and colonies, but then accept the wild card of a wild swarm. Illogical to me.

[@mustrumridcully3853]

It's really difficult. Our Association offers swarms to beginners for free as a way to start them off. I use a couple of swarm traps but they do get a clean / scorch each year. I have also used a very specific poly Nuc that I wash with soda and bleach.

[@bluelab5019]

I used to put up bait traps, but never caught a single one. The only swarms I take to my apiarys are ones I'm absolutely confident came from my hives. I am also one of the official swarm collectors for my local association so I do actually end up with 15-20 swarms a season. These all go to a secret location until they've gone through a brood cycle before I give them away. Maybe I'll consider making that 2 brood cycles after watching this video

[@arronbwabw504]

Don't beat yourself up so much! Just retract and a simply sorry if you feel the need to,

[@bjrningebrserud4518]

No stress, in Norway we’re not allowed to put comb in our swarm traps.

[@geraltofrivia8529]

My dad thinks he's read somewhere (He's got boxes full of books older than me) that bees will build the same orientation as the same colony they just left, so n-s or e-w so this why you sometimes get the strange cross comb building in boxes with swarms. its worth investing in full sheets of foundation because they can be left to their own devices for a few days if you know they are doing what you want.

[@judenew5442]

Never had any luck with bait hives, maybe because I put foundationless frames inside and swarm attractant. There is nothing to rob, but not attractive to the bees so far...

[@brucklay227]

Thanks for that Laurence. I’m just building simple new ply snd pine swarm traps and will just put naked frames in with a bit of lure. Not fussed if it doesn’t work but I’m enjoying the kick anyway.

[@shanecroke7682]

I got 11 swarms last year. I put out new hives with 2 new frames and foundation 2 drops of lemon grass one every 7 to 10 days and it works a treat.

[@billgartner8797]

What works good for myself in the Mid Atlantic (Virginia) is a drop or two on the outside near the entrance of the box. I use two frames with no comb in them.

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Nice tip :)

[@Devonhoneyandcandles]

i catch swarms, mainly my own bees😅. i use a new clean box, a couple of new frames with foundation and lemon grass as a lure . I find this works well. i leave the swarm where i caught it for a month or two and then give it a good checking over for problems before i move it anywhere else. There is something special about seeing a swarm move in to your bait hive , but it does come with risks you should try to mitigate.

[@CPMJunkRemoval]

You aren’t realistically doing any of the things you preach to these people! 😂

[@rwdkai]

I'm not so sure, I can see a very positive move in the right direction from the channel over the last while and I think with the others on board and the AFB attack he has learnt a lot of valuable lessons.

[@eastsussexbeesandwildlife5801]

Great advice. Thank you

[@beebob1279]

I disagree to a point. Dark comb is ok as long as you inspect your hives. Wax moths and small hive beetles if you have them would be my bigger concern. As for the brood diseases a swarm might bring something with them is is where foundation is important and not using comb. The spores will digest through the gut because they would need to make wax. When I started and would buy packages, they were always started on foundation for this purpose. But luring the swarms to the box is difficult without the comb in the box. I like the lemon grass idea and waxing the inside to give it a homy smell Our season is just around the corner. It’ll be here before we know it

[@BlackMountainHoney]

It really isn't OK. If you inspect your hives and don't see any EFB, it doesn't mean your hive doesn't have EFB. You could put dark frames out that you inspected and think are OK but could be spreading EFB around the apiary and even further afield. I'd prefer to not attract swarms and not risk spreading disease. and your point about using wax foundation for swarms is correct and makes it even more important not to use drawn combs for swarms as working the foundation helps empty their stomach of bacteria and turn it into wax as opposed to emptying their stomachs into the combs along with any bacteria present

[@beebob1279]

@@BlackMountainHoney I was taught by a college professor whose specialty was beekeeping (entomologist) that bees will clean up European foul brood. So, I don't have an issue with it. AFB on the other hand should be looked for every time a hive is opened and or frames transferred.

[@BlackMountainHoney]

@beebob1279 I'm afraid that's very old and outdated advice. They can hide it. Antibiotics will hide it. But it's still there and infectious even if asymptomatic. A good strong flow will 'clear' out the signs of it so it looks like it's not there but the bacteria lie present and once the colony becomes stressed again it rears it head If you use combs from that colony the chance of spreading efb is high

[@jscfb]

Hi Lawrence i used a uniting board on British standard brood for my bees to move up onto langstroth brood box what month should i remove the bottom national before it's layed up with brood 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@won2winit]

Never had luck with bait boxes but collected a few swarms and generally give them 1 drawn frame that is relatively new so hope thats ok. I have kept any dead queens over the last few years and put them in surgical spirit and think soaking some cotton and putting it in a plastic bag with some holes would be a good attractant in lew of drawn frames

[@albestarkhonglam3551]

🎉I'm probably proud of you friend

[@benjamindejonge3624]

Who wants a swarm with a old queen

[@won2winit]

one of my best queens was from a caught swarm so don't think all swarms are poor quality, Sadly looks like their was a late supercedure last year and they have not survived, but I have a daughter of hers so hope she continues the line of genetics but time will tell.

[@dickymint4109]

Because an "old queen" is a very successful queen that has done her job to perfection? Plus many swarms are 'cast' swarms with a very young queen - can you tell the difference? A swarmy hive is a happy hive ;)